2004 INFINITY G35 COUPE ACC

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2004 INFINITY G35 COUPE ACC/DASH/DECK STOCK --> V35 PROJECT COMPILED BY DOCRON1 **Disclaimer: This DIY guide is meant to assist in the disassembly of the 2004 G35 Coupe dash console, the switching of the Dual Climate Control circuit board and controller buttons from the stock Infinity G35 Coupe to the Nissan JDM v35 AC controller and the replacement of the stock head unit (HU) to an aftermarket HU. This document is not meant to serve as an official installation manual or replace the provided Infinity documentation. The author of this document assumes NO responsibility for any problems, complications or malfunctions of any similar project associated with use of this guide! READY, SET……………GO!!!!!!!!!!!!

Transcript of 2004 INFINITY G35 COUPE ACC

Page 1: 2004 INFINITY G35 COUPE ACC

2004 INFINITY G35 COUPE ACC/DASH/DECK STOCK --> V35 PROJECT COMPILED BY DOCRON1 **Disclaimer: This DIY guide is meant to assist in the disassembly of the 2004 G35 Coupe dash console, the switching of the Dual Climate Control circuit board and controller buttons from the stock Infinity G35 Coupe to the Nissan JDM v35 AC controller and the replacement of the stock head unit (HU) to an aftermarket HU. This document is not meant to serve as an official installation manual or replace the provided Infinity documentation. The author of this document assumes NO responsibility for any problems, complications or malfunctions of any similar project associated with use of this guide! READY, SET……………GO!!!!!!!!!!!!

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Tools Needed: For dash disassembly:

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For aftermarket deck, AC controller, Dual Climate Control button/IC board button swap:

1. 20 feet - 12 Gauge wire (from RadioShack) for lead amp wire (blue/white stripe) from aftermarket deck to remote power terminals on aftermarket amps

2. Multicolor electrical tape – to label Front, Rear, Sub out RCA cables from rear of deck to amps (so you can remember which RCA cable is for what amp)

3. Solder - for AC controller button swap 4. Multimeter 5. Xacto knife - for trimming plastic and other associated tasks 6. Solder iron 7. Wire stripper/crimper 8. Precision flathead screwdriver 9. Wire crimp connectors – associated sizes 10—24 Gauge 10. Plastic cable ties

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V35 JDM Skyline Dash Parts Needed: (prices are current as of 1/13/04) 1. 68260-AM913 Double Din Dash Titanium $56.90 2. 68260-AL700 Aluminum bracket $32.97 3. 27500-AL501 AC Controller $220.50 4. 68475-35F00 Dash Pocket $9.30 5. 68470-60M00 Blank Bracket $5.70 6. Shipping costs $57 7. Credit card charge for total including shipping is additional 5%

You don’t need both Dash Pocket and the Blank Bracket. They are to fill the second DIN otherwise you will be able to see straight though the dash. You can obtain dash pockets and other plastic trim from your local car audio installation store too. Process of obtaining Nissan Japan v35 dash/ACC parts: (from J’s Garage)

1. Email Yoshitaka Ikeda at J’s Garage @ [email protected] 2. Tell him which parts you want in your email. 3. You will get a return email from J’s Garage confirming desired parts. 4. Fax a copy of your license to J’s Garage (****-81-53-4721795) This is to

confirm your shipping address, you can black out your license number if you want.

5. Return email from J’s Garage will direct you to a secured third party billing company (similar to PayPal and c2it) where you provide your credit card information.

6. YOU PAY…….. 7. Return email from J’s Garage will confirm they have received payment and that

your order was placed with Nissan Japan. 8. It takes about 1-2 weeks for J’s to get the parts from Nissan Japan. 9. Shipping of the parts from Japan to the US varies on your location but most

people will get the parts within 1-1.5 weeks. You do have to sign for the delivery.

NOTE: The Japanese v35 dash console you get will be labled “AL700” on the back of the console piece despite the box being labled “AM913”. This caused some confusion whether the color would match the US G35 dash color. It will. In short, Nissan Japan gets the pieces unpainted labled AL700. When they paint it titanium or black it is then labled AM913, etc. I think Nissan Japan only makes titanium and black colored dashes.

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Now onto the installation….

1. Lower both driver and passenger windows. Remember the windows will raise and lower slightly upon opening/closing the door. You don’t want to risk clipping the top of your windows when rolled up while opening and closing your doors during this project.

2. Move both the driver and passenger seats as far back possible to allow more space. You will be working in small spaces.

3. Disconnect the ground terminal of your battery.

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4. Raise you steering wheel as high as it will go. This will make it easier for you to get at some screws and panels.

5. Remove the screw located below the hood release.

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6. Pull down driver panel using notch located under steering column. You don’t have to disconnect any wiring, just let it hang gently.

7. Remove indicated screw of driver side panel. Removal of this screw will make it easier to disengage side panel as well as removal of driver side middle AC vent when you remove the HVAC unit.

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8. Start disengaging driver side panel by pulling the bottom of panel toward the left of vehicle. There are 2 clips that hold the side panel. You don’t have to disconnect the 12V power plug, just let it gently hang. The reason for this removal is to allow enough clearance to remove the left AC vent when removing the HVAC unit.

9. Move to passenger side

10. Disengage and lower the

passenger side kick plastic plate located under the lower glove box.

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11. Remove the passenger side door trim. This is done to allow the disengagement and removal of the passenger side kick panel.

12. Remove passenger side kick panel by initially pulling at the bottom of the kick panel toward the left of the vehicle. There is only 1 or 2 clips that need to be disengaged. You don’t have to completely remove this panel. This panel needs to pulled out enough to expose the lower glove box bottom right screw.

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13. Remove the lower glove box bottom right screw.

14. Remove the lower glove box bottom left screw.

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15. Open glove box and remove the 4 screws that hold the top of the glove box.

16. Gently pull directly down on the glove box and let gently hang. There is no need to disconnect any wires. The tightest wire will be the trunk release cancel switch. The glove box need to hang down in order to remove the passenger side panel.

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17. Disengage the passenger side panel by again initially pulling at the bottom of the side panel towards the right of the vehicle. There is no need to disconnect the 12V power plug. This is removed to again allow clearance for the removal of the HVAC unit and clearance of the right AC vent.

**NOTE: The following steps are for the 5AT Coupe model for removal of the gear shifter and center console. There are other steps not listed here to remove the 6MT gear shifter and center console. ***GO SLOW AND BE CAREFUL FROM THIS POINT AS YOU CAN POTENTIALLY SCRATCH THE TITANIUM PAINT OF THE CENTER CONSOLE AND DASH!!!!

18. Now move onto removing the center console where the shifter is located. First step is to open center armrest.

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19. Now you need to reconnect your battery’s ground cable to allow you to put the shifter in neutral so that you can remove this center console.

20. Remove the AT shifter by the following steps.

21. Remove center console with the following steps. You don’t need to (and you can’t anyway) remove the circular trim piece that surrounds the gear shifter. Lay the center console piece on the passenger seat.

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22. Remove Infinity clock trim piece. First work your fingers under the top of the trim piece and start pulling directly to the rear of the vehicle. The first time you remove this piece, you have to pull with GREAT FORCE! Once you disengage the top clips, the 2 bottom clips will be easier to disengage.

A possibly easier way to remove this piece is to grab the trim piece as I do in the picture. You can pinch and pull the top part of the trim piece towards the rear of the car enough to get your fingers into the top crease to assist in the disengaging of the top clips.

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23. Once you finish cussing

and frustratingly remove the clock trim piece, disconnect the plug of the LED security light. Place the clock trim piece in a safe place (i.e. the back seat). You truly don’t have to disconnect the power wires and remove the clock or the clock trim piece. You can just lay them up there on the top of the dash. You have to remove these pieces in order to get the aluminum bracket anchor screw in step 25.

24. Remove the 2 screws that

hold the Infiniti clock. Disconnect the clock plug.

25. Remove the screw that anchors the aluminum bracket.

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26. Locate and remove the 2

bottom screws that anchor the HVAC unit and aluminum brackets. These screws are located above the location of the now-removed center console/ashtray/hazard light switch.

27. Remove the trim plastic piece located above the navi cubby and AC vents by carefully inserting a precision flathead screwdriver and wedging it out. Be careful to not scratch piece and not to snap it in two by pulling too aggressively. This trim piece, once initially detached, can be removed easily.

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28. Again, put the gear shifter in neutral as the

HVAC unit will not clear the shifter if it is left in PARK. Grab the HVAC unit at the bottom and gently and gradually pull deck down and out. The hardest removal locations are the AC vents and the top aluminum bracket (where you removed the screw). The entire HVAC unit is pretty heavy so again be careful not to scratch any titanium paint. You’ll have to place the removed HVAC unit over the gear shifter and resting it on the black bottom part of the center console (NOT the removed aluminum center console that now is resting on your passenger seat).

29. Disconnect the 4 plugs on

the back of the HVAC unit. Get any screwdriver and push in retaining clip on the bottom of each plug to remove the plug from the HVAC unit.

30. Disconnect the AC controller plug. This is a little complicated if you don’t know how to remove it correctly. To do this, you need to first remove the 2 retaining clips located on the top and bottom of the car’s side of the AC controller. These retaining clips are held by 2 very small clips on each side of the AC controller plug. Again use a precision flathead screwdriver to dislodge these very small clips to remove the 2 top/bottom retaining clips. Keep these retaining clips in a safe place as you will need them when you connect your new v35 AC controller. Once you remove the 2 retaining clips, there is only one more clip that holds the plug together. (If this doesn’t make sense, please take time to study the AC controller plug and how is disconnects.) I apologized for not taking a picture of this as it is a very important connection but I was frustrated after finally figuring it out.

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30. Your dash should now look like this!

You’re done with your car for awhile.

31. Now even before you disassemble your dash, you could have prepared your v35 Skyline AC controller and wire harness for your aftermarket deck.

32. For an easier installation of an aftermarket deck, you can use a wire harness designed for Infiniti and Nissan cars. I purchased mine from sounddomain.com but you can also get one from Crutchfield.

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For Scosche NN03 Wiring harness reference: Yellow = 12 Volt Battery/Constant (12V+) Red = 12 Volt Ignition/Switched (12V+) Blue = Power Antenna Blue/White = remote Turn On (12V+) Orange = Illumination/Dimmer Black = Chassis Ground (12V-) White = Left Front Positive (LF+) White/Black = Left Front Negative (LF-) Gray = Right Front Positive (RF+) Gray/Black = Right Front Negative (RF-) Green =Left Rear Positive (LR+) Green/Black = Left Rear Negative (LR-) Violet = Right Rear Positive (RR+) Violet/Black = Right Rear Negative (RR-) You will also need a Nissan Antenna Adapter as most aftermarket decks will not accept the stock G35 antenna plug.

You can do a web search for “Nissan Antenna Adapter” and there are several vendors that sell these.

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33. Gather all your v35 Skyline dash/AC controller parts

34. Get your v35 AC controller and disassemble it. You will now be swapping out the Dual Climate Control circuit and controller buttons.

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35. Remove the v35 AC controller “dead” button. You will need to jimmy 3 clips that hold this “dead” button to the AC controller. The bottom clip is easy to release using your fingertip. The other 2 clips are small and can be broken easily so be careful. You will need to again use your trusty precision flathead screwdriver to push the pins in. Study the clips carefully and you will able to see for yourself how they are fastened in.

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You will do the same removal for the stock Dual Climate Control controller button. The stock Dual Climate Controller Button on the stock HVAC unit has an additional 2 very small retaining clips located between the 2 top retaining clips. These can be removed with the same technique using the precision flathead screwdriver. Be careful not to break these clips!

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The Dual Climate Control controller button will simply snap into the spot where the “dead” button once was.

36. The following steps are to remove the stock navi cubby, AC vents, and AC controller from the HVAC unit. First step is to remove the 4 screws that hold the aluminum bracket/CD changer to the circuit board.

**REVISED PICTURE TO INSERT**

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37. Use the following

picture diagram to remove the aluminum bracket.

38. This will now expose the HVAC circuit board. Now you will remove the 2 screws that hold the navi cubby.

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39. Next step is to remove

the AC vents. Again use your precision flathead screwdriver for the 2 clips located on the medial side of the vent. The vents are lodged in grooves in the dash piece and are mildly difficult to remove. Make sure to remove these vents carefully so that you don’t break the thin dash vent brackets.

40. Next remove the circuit board from the front of the stock deck/AC controller. There are several screws that need to removed . Screws circled in red are the screws that need to removed. Revised picture below (red circle in middle of white plastic piece)

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41. You’ll now do some soldering. This next step is either easy or hard depending on your soldering skills. On the now detached stock circuit board, find the green circuit button for Dual Climate Control. I used the precision flathead screwdriver to gently lift this button while flash soldering each of the 4 terminals. You end up with this little button.

42. Your new v35 Skyline AC controller initially looks like this:

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43. After you resolder the little green Dual Climate Control circuit button, it will look like this:

44. Screw white plastic cover back onto v35 Skyline AC controller.

45. From this point on, it’s pretty simple. For easiest installation, follow these exact steps.

a. Attach v35 AC controller to JDM titanium dash console piece with 2 screws. b. Attach stock navi cubby to JDM titanium dash console piece with 2 screws. c. Attach the 2 AC vents to JDM titanium dash console piece. d. Attach aluminum bracket to rear of JDM titanium dash consol piece with 4

screws. e. Install and anchor your aftermarket deck and dash pocket (if applicable) into

titanium dash console and aluminum bracket.

46. Next, replace you newly constructed JDM HVAC unit back into your gutted car dash. Connect the wiring harness from your aftermarket deck to the stock wiring for power/ground/ACC/powered antenna. The stock antenna connector will not fit your aftermarket deck’s antenna input.

47. Connect your AC controller with the stock plug. Remember you have to replace the 2 retaining clips onto the AC controller plug. If your AC controller is not connected properly, your AC will not work properly and will blow warm air (~75 degrees). It would be a good idea to test the AC controller before inserting the HVAC unit back into the voided space and finding out later your AC doesn’t work.

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48. Reverse the disassembly process to put your dash back together. Again, be careful

not to scratch the titanium paint on the dash and center console.

49. If all goes well, you should finish with something like this.