· 2 Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil. WINE IN MÁLAGA. OLIVE OIL IN MÁLAGA. USEFUL INFORMATION...

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2 www.visitcostadelsol.com Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil

. WINE IN MÁLAGA

. OLIVE OIL IN MÁLAGA

. USEFUL INFORMATION

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PATRONATO PROVINCIAL DE TURISMO DE LA COSTA DEL SOLPalacio de Congresos y Exposiciones de la Costa del Sol

C/ México, s/n, 4ª planta29620 TORREMOLINOS- MÁLAGA- ESPAÑA

Phone: (34) 952 058 694 Fax : (34) 952 050 311 / 952 370 406E-mail: [email protected] : www.visitacostadelsol.com

Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil

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0. Introduction

1. Málaga Wine through the years

2. Málaga Wine making and traditions

3. General typology

4. Grape growing and wine-pproducing regions

5. Tourist routes

6. Málaga Wine culture

7. Málaga Wine and gastronomy

8. The Control Board for Málaga and Sierras de Málaga Denominations

of Origin

9. Wineries and wine tasting

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WINE IN MÁLAGA



We would like to askthose who visit Costa del Sol to comewith us and follow the trail of vineyards,wineries and people related to MálagaWine, to invite them to go deep into theland and take the Wine Routes acrossthe province.

The land in Málaga reflects its wine, andthe wine reflects its land, which is not bychance, since each one lends the othertheir character and name until theybecome completely merged.

Before taking the road, it is important to learn some details about wines:

Málaga grows wine since time immemorial, even if its traditional wine, thewine that travels around the world, is that known as wine with Designationof Origin Málaga (from now on, DO Málaga). Denominacion de Origen, theSpanish system for wine classification that fits the requirements of theEuropean Union's top-quality wine category, guarantees wines' origin andquality, and in this designation, numerous types of wines are included, butfor the moment we will focus on sweet wines, which are the best known, notthe only ones, though.

The main grape varieties used to make DO Málaga wines are muscatel andpedro ximén.

Nowadays, there is a new Designation of Origin: Sierras de Málaga (fromnow on, DO Sierras de Málaga), which includes wines that are not traditionalwines in Málaga, namely, white, red and rosé, made from different grapevarieties.

Málaga has a rich and complex variety of landscapes and it is amicroclimate paradise. From the coast to the 2,000 m above sea levelareas, we will find vineyards and, next to them, villages which mirror theAndalusian charm irradiating its own culture, folklore, natural beauty and thelifestyle of their inhabitants.

Let's go!

introduction

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WINE IN MÁLAGA



Many people from Málaga who travel to far-off places have heard thephrase "Your town bears the name of a wine". For in the old days, whentourism was not that common, Málaga was not equalled to sun andbeaches, let alone with a southern Spanish province -Málaga was justa type of wine.

Indeed, in the beginning there was the land, then there was its wine,but it is true that this wine embraces the quintessence of the MotherEarth in which the grapes grow: its sun, sea, light, contrasts, thesweetness and joy of Málaga, all of which can be savoured in each sip.This is still so, but let's look retrospectively to know what the life ofthese Málaga's ambassadors, its wines, has been like.

Before we start, we would like to offer one more detail: there was anepoch in which vineyards in Málaga covered 110,000 ha, while

nowadays they cover only 5,000 in Axarquía, the Mountains of Málaga,the Serranía de Ronda, the Western Coast, and the Northern Region

(Antequera). These areas maintain the deep mysteries of an ancientvineyard tradition more than 25 centuries old, marked by a rugged terrain, the

sun and sea.

On the banks of the Guadalhorce river, Phoenicians founded Mainake (Málaga) inthe 12th century BC. They imported the first grapes and elaborated the first musts. From

then on, Málaga has been transformed in a wine producing region.

1. mÁLAGA WINE THROUGHTHE YEARS

index editorial . M á l a g a W i n e t h r o u g h t h e y e a r s Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil


But we have to move back to the Roman period if we want to know how winemaking and exports have permeated the local society. Today, traces of thosecenturies still remain.

Once in the 8th century, vineyards and wine production fermented theeconomy of southern Spain. At that period, as is still customary for them,Muslims in Spain had to comply with Quranic laws, which prohibit alcoholconsumption, but they managed to turn a blind eye to religious regulationsregarding this matter. In fact, during the seven centuries of Muslim rule, thenumber of vineyards increased strikingly. Probably, the plantation boom wasdue to raisin production or to wine distillation for medical use, for people hadtaken the habit of drinking some wine on behalf of health care. Xarab alMalaqui was the name given by Allah's sons to what Christians calledMálaga Wine.

Such Spanish words as alcohol, alambique (still) and arrope (grape syrup),all of them of Islamic origin, were incorporated into the Spanish languageduring Muslim rule in the Spanish Peninsula. The Moorish muscatel grapewas highly prized by Muslims, an appreciation closely linked to the MálagaWine that has come down to our time.

SOME REMAINS FROM THE OLD DAYS

In Málaga, there are still some symbols that remind us of past times stressed bywine culture.You can visit Acinipo, the old Roman city in Ronda, whose name stands for "cityof wine", where a number of coins with a cluster of grapes stamped on themhave been found, a fact that tells a lot about the importance of grape growing inthe region. A visit to Acinipo is included in the wine route across Ronda.

In Cártama, some 30 km away from the capital city of the province of Málaga, awine press was found in a plot of land dating back to the late Roman Empire.The press consists in a prismatic fermentation vat that connects through sometubes with the recipient where the grape juice was obtained. This finding revealsthe first traces of wine-making in Málaga.

In the city of Málaga, capital of the province, at the Plaza de la Constitución, youwill find the building belonging to the Royal Charitable Organisation "Pío deSocorro" for wine-growers and grape harvesters in the Diocese of Málaga(1776). This society was founded to protect local farmers from foreignmerchants' wrongs. Foreign merchants gave money to local farmers as anadvance payment for the harvest they agreed to deliver to the moneylenders.



In the 15th century, Málaga, a seaport city, had already been weaving acommercial network based on wine, and winemaking had already becomeone of the main pillars of its economy. When Ferdinand and Isabella theCatholics took over the city in 1487, they were asked by winegrowers toissue regulations protecting their interests.

12 January 1502 is a landmark, for that day the first Royal Decree wasissued establishing the Hermandad de Viñeros de Málaga (MálagaWinegrowers' Union), the present Control Board's predecessor. The Union'sordinances contributed to the international prestige of Málaga Wine well intothe 19th century.

2002 was the year of the 5th centenary of this historical landmark in theMálaga Wine history, which was widely celebrated.

The 17th century witnessed the beginnings of the Málaga Wine expansion,and in the 18th century, it was already world famous. In English speakingnations, it was called "mountain" because it came from the mountainssurrounding the Hoya de Málaga (the Monutains of Málaga). In England itwas also known as malligo sack, and in France, as vins de Málaga.

The story goes that Catherine II, the Czarina of Russia, after tasting someMálaga Wine offered by Spanish Ambassador Miguel de Gálvez, liked thewine and she declared null and void all regulations on import tariffs on thisproduct.

These years were glorious for Málaga Wine, as they saw in it the wondersof the land in which this pure nectar was produced.

ARAB CULTURE AND MÁLAGA WINE

Almaccari de Tremecen is one of the few Arab writers whose texts have comedown to us. He collected an anonymous poem where the vineyards in Málagaare praised: "Its land (Málaga) was covered with vineyards, one linked to theother until they reached mount Xolair (Sierra Nevada), which, when the vineswere leafy, offered one of the most wonderful views in the world."

He claims the wine was excellent, both the legal one and the wine forbiddento Muslims. There is a passage in his texts that is connected with this issue:the author comments that there was once a Muslim who, knowing that he wasabout to die, said, "pray to your Lord for mercy." And he, raising his hands toheaven, exclaimed, "Oh, My Lord! Out of all things I can do in Heaven, I onlyfancy drinking some Málaga Wine."



By the mid 19th century, the devastating pests that attacked otherEuropean regions also affected Spanish vines. Grape phylloxerareached Málaga in 1876, ruining its vineyards.

Muscatel and pedro ximén varieties survived thanks to the propagationof Vitis riparia on their rootstocks. These two European varieties werethe only ones to remain, and since then they have contributed to ourwines' character.

Recently, the Málaga Wine production has been expanding, andtogether with this expansion, good news arrived: in 2001, theGovernment of Andalusia's Official Gazette included the regulations ineffect today, which added the DO Sierras de Málaga, now coexistingwith the DO Málaga.

Ronda was born again as a vineyard land when new wineries wereopened and new vineyards were established. The Northern Region(Antequera) has pioneered the revamping of its wineries' aesthetics andthe production of high-quality wines. Axarquía is fighting against itsrough soil and facing the eternal dilemma of choosing betweenproducing raisins or wine. In the Mountains of Málaga, several projectsrelated to the establishment of wineries are under study. In Málaga city,they keep ageing wines and also contribute to the spread of wineculture. Finally, in the Western Coast, the debate has opened recentlyon fostering either vine growth or urban development.

In 2005, the Wine Museum in Málaga opened its doors to the public. Itis an interactive museum showing the history of a generous land that ishome to wines which are grateful to the sea that lends them theirtravelling vocation.

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SOME CURIOUS FACTS ABOUT MÁLAGA WINE IN RUSSIA, AMERICA AND ENGLAND

In 1620, the Mayflower brought a British cooper, John Alden, from England toAmerica, where he came across the red oak, a tree whose wood was perfect forwine storage and handling. Soon after arrival, he started exporting staves madefrom this tree species to Spain. Wine-producers in Málaga learned the benefitswood brought for wine handling and also for enhancing its quality. As winequality increased, there was an exports boom.

Spain also imported a remedy against the grape phylloxera from America, for itsgrape varieties were, and still are, phylloxera-resistant plants. This is whyAmerican plants were used for grafting: they were used to improve Europeanvines, resulting in the only ones apt for quality wine making and immune to thepest.

In 1769, there was an event in England that showed the fame that Málaga Winehad already gained in the 18th century: the well-known James Christie, founderof the art auctioneer firm Crhistie's in London, organised a wine and liquorauction held on 7 and 8 September: 400 bottles of high-quality wine were sold,among which there were some Málaga Wine bottles.

There are many allusions and stories related to Málaga Wine in Russia. Just tomention one of them, we should recall the Russian novelist Fyodor Dostoevsky(1821-1881), who refers to Málaga Wine in some of his works, a fact thatreveals the importance of the product in Russia. In Stepantchikovo, one of thecharacters says: "To get well again, try with Málaga Wine. Málaga Wine… now,that's something!"



Málaga is a genuine wine land due to its nature and to the moment at whichwine-making started, 25 centuries ago, when the Greeks occupied the area.This reality has laid a rich tradition that turns Málaga into a unique place.The modern Málaga Wine, even if it has an updated image and quality, stillpreserves age-old winemaking traditions. Let's look at some of thetraditions we will come across in our trip along the Málaga Wine routes.

GRAPE SYRUP

Málaga Wines are complex because they are produced based on anensemble or blending of various base wines (natural sweet wine; vinomaestro, which comes form a very incomplete fermentation; and vinotierno, a partially fermented wine) into which a small proportion of grapesyrup is added to give them the characteristic colour of the DO MálagaWines. All this blend furnishes Málaga Wine with its extraordinary andsingular personality.

The grape-syrup making process requires concentrated must, whichcomes from grapes exposed to heat. The must boils, either over direct

heat or in a bain-marie, until it is reduced to 1/3 of its initial volume. In theold days, grape syrup was spread on bread slices and served as an

afternoon snack, for its alcohol content is virtually zero.

Nowadays, only two wineries in Málaga produce and distribute grape syrup:Inversiones Santa Ana and López Madrid.

2. mÁLAGA WINE MAKING ANDTRADITIONSGRAPE SYRUP

SUN DRYING

GRAPE VARIETIES

AGEING IN CRIADERAS AND SOLERAS

SOME CURIOSITIES

index editorial . Má laga W i ne mak i ng and t r ad i t i o n s Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil


SUN DRYING

The wine routes along the Norhtern Region or Axarquía take us well intoone of the most genuine traditions: SUN DRYING. Laying grapes in the sunis an exclusive Andalusian custom required both for the elaboration of somesweet wines and to make raisins. Sun-dried grapes used to make wine areoverripe grapes. Once the grape harvest is over, grapes for sun-drying areselected and, in August and September, they are laid in the sun inPASEROS, which are structures specially built for placing fruit in an orderlyfashion.

Sun-drying is a traditional method which demands workers to crouch aboutto turn the grape clusters over so as to ensure they are exposed to the sameheat and light quantity on every inch of their surface. The task is reallypainstaking: in Axarquía, for instance, the paseros are covered withcanopies every night in order to prevent grapes from being affected byinclement weather.

This system allows for dehydrating grapes and increasing sugarconcentration. When grapes are used for making raisins, they are reducedto 1/3 of their original volume. The story goes that sun-drying was "invented"in Axarquía in order to reduce the fruit weight so that carrying it to the pressafter the harvest would not mean such great an effort, for the terrain slopeand crags in "the eastern land", as Arabs used to call it, made wine-growersthink it twice before setting out to climb. Most probably, sun-drying and raisinproduction were introduced by the Arabs to compensate for the ban on winedrinking.

GRAPE VARIETIES

The most widely distributed varieties in the province of Málaga, not the onlyones, though, are muscatel and pedro ximén. There was a time when thiswas not so: before the phylloxera pest arrival (19th century), Málaga hadalready built a vast international market centred on wine, and there weremany grape varieties that could never be recovered. Today, the LaConcepción Botanical Garden in Málaga city grows an enormous number ofvarieties that are cultivated, even if no longer in Málaga, in many other areasaround the world. This cultivation project, designed to revive the tradition, isbeing brought to fruition by the Control Board for Designations of OriginMálaga and Sierras de Málaga, together with other institutions.



Salvador Rueda, the Málaga-born poet, has dedicated a beautiful poemto the different varieties that were cultivated in the region: mollares,tempranas, rondeñas, lairenes, otelo, perrunas, sultanas, cabrieles,romen, montúas, lojas, baladíes, perojiménez, jaqueles, cabrito, albalá,jaenes, don bueno or santa paula, telaburra and marbellíes. All thesenames were coined by the wine-growers of Álora, Campanillas, Gaucínor any other village from the Mountains or Serranía de Ronda, all ofthem belonging to a province which was essentially vinicultural, andwhose products were included under the same umbrella name -Málaga.

There is a peculiar story about the PEDRO XIMÉN variety. Differentversions point at its foreign origin. One of these versions mentionsPero, a Flemish, son of Simon -maybe this explains the coinage of theterm-, who carried grapes from Germany to Spain, for he sawsimilarities between the climate of the Rhin valley and Spain. Actually,the Iberian Peninsula's milder weather and its good quality soil werebeneficial to the above mentioned variety, from which a better-tastingand smoother wine was obtained.

There are authors who consider that this variety comes from the CanaryIslands, from where it was carried first to the Madeira Islands, Portugal,and then to the Rhin valley. In Germany, a man called Pero (or Pedro)Simon (or Siemens), a soldier in the 16th century Flemish army duringCharles V's reign, feeling repentance of his deeds, decided to lay downhis arms and became a farmer. So he came to Málaga, where hegrafted the variety he had brought with him onto local vines.

AGEING IN CRIADERAS AND SOLERAS

The ageing method for maturing Málaga Wine has been inherited froman old tradition consisting in keeping wine in oak barrels (in Málaga,they are called botas). Today, the criaderas and soleras system, alsoused in making other Andalusian wines, is the common practice for DOMálaga Wines but not for DO Sierras de Málaga ones.

On visiting wineries in Málaga, we can see that barrels are piled upforming aisles. To the layman's eye it could seem that this arrangementis made to optimise space; the reason, however, is quite different: theneed to transfer wine from one container to another during the ageingprocess.

The first tier of barrels is called solera because it is nearer to the ground(suelo in Spanish), and it keeps mature wine, one of the main productscontributing to the region's wealth. From these barrels, mature wine istaken for bottling and commercialisation. The empty space left whenwine is drawn off the barrels in the solera is refilled with liquid form thebarrels in the next upper tier. This process keeps going until the barrelson top are filled with wine form the current year. In this way, the maturewine becomes "refreshed" and the product is always launched to themarket maintaining an homogeneous quality.



SOME CURIOSITIES

"WINED" BARRELSEverybody knows how important wood is to the ageing of wine and otherliquors. However, some people do not know that the best brandies and otheralcoholic drinks are aged in barrels previously "wined" or soaked up withMálaga Wine, which results in top quality spirits, much better than thoseobtained with "unwined" barrels.

MÁLAGA WINE, A MASS WINECatholic liturgy uses wine for the Consecration. The Vatican laws demand anatural, fermented, not vinegary and pure grape wine, with an alcohol levelranging between 12 and 18 percent, recommending lower levels if possible,and always taking into account perfect condition and absolute purity, fordifferent standards would not be suitable for liturgical purposes.

Ageing Málaga Wine in oak barrels guarantees a perfect quality standard forthe Catholic Church to use in religious services. The barrels destined toobtain mass wine bear labels such as "Proveedores del Papa" (The Pope'ssupplier), "Con Arreglo a la Liturgia" (Suitable for Liturgy) or "Apto para laIglesia" (Fit for the Church).



In Málaga, there are two main types of wine:Designation of Origin Málaga and Designation of Origin Sierras de Málaga.

DESIGNATION OF ORIGIN MÁLAGA (DO MÁLAGA)

There are two main groups within the DO Málaga:

- Naturally sweet wine: its alcohol content comes entirely fromfermentation.- Vin de liqueur or fortified wine: alcohol is added to it at a certain pointin the fermentation process

Naturally sweet wine:This wine is made from overripe grapes (dehydrated either because of

sun drying or grape-harvest delay) belonging to pedro ximén or muscatelvarieties. Their must is rich in sugar: more than 300 g/l, without any artificial

increase in alcohol level so that alcohol comes entirely from fermentation andreaches a maximum of 13% alcohol by volume.

Vin de liqueur or fortified wine: This DO Málaga wine is fortified with alcohol. According to sugar content wines are

classified into sweet, semisweet and dry.

3. gENERAL TYPOLOGY

DESIGNATION OF ORIGIN MÁLAGA

DESIGNATION OF ORIGIN SIERRAS DE MÁLAGA

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The most famous DO Málaga Wine in the world is sweet wine.

A) SWEET WINEWhat is sweet wine?

Grape juice or must is turned into wine through yeast fermentation, yeastsbeing microorganisms which are always floating in the air and also live onthe grapes skin.

Yeasts, which feed from sugars existing in the must, grow and multiply athigh speed. During fermentation, they transform food into carbon dioxide, agas that evaporates, and alcohol, a liquid that stays in the medium where itis produced. Yeasts do not tolerate alcohol well, so if there is high initialconcentration of sugar in the fruit itself or in its must, the alcohol producedcan kill yeasts before they can consume all the sugar present in themedium. In this case, the resulting wine will be sweet.

Sometimes, wine sweetness is artificially generated by adding alcohol,lowering the medium temperature, i.e. changing the microorganisms' rightenvironment variables so that they cannot grow or multiply properly.

Sweet Málaga Wine requires quite a complex elaboration process: Eachwinery creates their sweet wine following certain standards and traditionalblending (combination of different wines) patterns, a goal for which theymake "base wines", whose name vary depending on how they areproduced.

Base wines for sweet wine making:Natural Sweet Wine: It is made with must bearing a minimum of 212 g/l ofsugars and a minimum alcohol level of 7% by volume.

Vino Maestro: Ethyl alcohol is added to the must before fermentation starts.In this way, the fermentation process is delayed and stops when 100 g/l ofsugar remain and the alcohol level reaches 15 -16 % vol.

Vino Tierno: It is made from grapes sun-dried during a long time, whichresults in musts very rich in sugar, over 350 g/l. The must starts thefermentation process and then ethyl alcohol is added.

Sweet table wine:When base wines have been elaborated, wine-producers can choosebetween:1. blending two or three base wines to make a final product forcommercialisation, or2. commercialising the base wines under their corresponding names:"natural sweet wine", "vino tierno" or "vino maestro".

B) DRY, MEDIUM-DRY AND OFF-DRY WINEIn addition to the famous sweet wines that qualify for the Málaga DO, thefollowing wines are made:


TRADITIONAL TERMS FOR TABLE WINESQUALIFYING FOR DO MÁLAGA

Depending on different characteristics such as colour, the origin of must,sugar content or ageing, these wines can also bear additional names ontheir labels:

A) COLOUR

Dorado (Golden): Mature natural sweet wine, or naturally sweet, with noadditional grape syrup.Rojo Dorado (Tawny): Mature vin de liqueur or fortified wine, withadditional grape syrup, 5% by volume.Oscuro (Dark): Mature vin de liqueur with additional grape syrup between5 and 10% percent by volume.Color (Colour): Mature vin de liqueur with additional grape syrup between10 and 15% by volume.Negro (Black): Mature vin de liqueur with additional grape syrup, over 15%by volume.

B) ORIGIN OF MUST:

Lágrima: Wine made from must obtained from free-run juice, i.e. withoutexternal mechanical pressure.

C) SUGAR CONTENT

Dulce Crema or Cream: Wine containing sugar within a range of 100 g/land 140 g/l. Its colour may vary between amber and dark amber.Dry Pale or Pale Dry: Vin de liqueur or fortified wine made with no grapesyrup addition, with a total sugar content lower than 45 g/l.Sweet: Vin de liqueur with a total sugar content over 140 g/l and furtherageing process. Its colour may vary between amber and black. Pajarete: Mature vin de liqueur with a total sugar content between 45 and140 g/l, with no additional grape syrup. Its colour ranges between amberand dark amber

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D) WINE AGEING

There are two methods used for ageing Málaga Wine:

Ageing by vintage (static system): Wine made in a certain year is put intobarrels for ageing.

Ageing in soleras (dynamic system): Barrels are arranged lined in tiers(andanas) piled one over the other (each row is called escala). The lowestescala is the solera, for in Spanish suelo (the term from which soleraderives) stands for ground. Mature wine is drawn off from this lowest tier,and the room left in the lower barrels is refilled with wine from the upper row.The row located on top is filled with young wine.

Classification according to ageing:

Málaga Pálido (Pale Málaga): Young wineMálaga: 6 to 24 months ageingMálaga Noble (Noble Málaga): 2 to 3 years ageingMálaga Añejo (Mature Málaga): 3 to 5 years ageingMálaga Trasañejo (Fully Mature Málaga): Over 5 years ageing

The ageing by vintage or static method is used to make some Málaga DOWines, while the soleras system is used to make other wines included in thesame DO.

DESIGNATION OF ORIGIN SIERRAS DE MÁLAGA(DO SIERRAS DE MÁLAGA)

ClassificationColour:White: Made from light-skinned grapes fermented without their skin.Red: Made from dark-skinned grapes which remain in contact with their skinso that their colour is transferred into the liquid during fermentation. Usually,the stalks are removed to obtain not so tannic wines.Rosé: Made from dark-skinned grapes which remain in contact with theirskin for a while so that dark colour is transferred into the liquid. For furtherfermentation, the skin is removed.

Ageing:Joven (young): New wine of the current year which has not been aged.Crianza (aged): Wine aged for at least 2 years.Reserva (reserve): For red wine making, wine must be left at least 36months in a cask or bottle -12 months should be in oak casks-. For whiteand rosé wines, the ageing period is 24 months minimum -6 months in oakcasks-.Gran Reserva (grand reserve): In order to be classified as grand reserve,red wines must be aged for at least 24 months in oak casks and for at leastanother 36 months in bottles. For white and rosé wines, the minimum periodis 48 months in casks and bottles, at least 6 of which must take place incasks made of oak.

Wines belonging to the Sierras de Málaga DO are aged using the vintagesystem only.



AXARQUÍA

MOUNTAINS OF MÁLAGA

NORTHERN REGION

SERRANÍA DE RONDA

WESTERN COAST

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OVERVIEW

Axarquía's vineyard region resembles a bobbin lace where vineyardsare its knots. Protected by the Tejeda and Almijara mountain ranges,the vineyards go through the region's rugged terrain. In the heart of the"eastern land", as the Arabs used to call it, lie the ancestors of theMálaga's vineyards.

Comares is the vantage point from which all the region can be viewed.The landscape is breathtaking, with its picturesque Andalusian whitevillages bathed by the sun and full of geraniums as if they were grapeclusters under the sun.

When travelling from the Mediterranean coast to the mountain, visitors willgo deep into the muscatel paradise. This grape variety is the typical one in

this region, and the aroma of the wines produced with it is superb. Muscatelgrapes are also used to make raisins qualifying for DO Málaga.

Visitors will be impressed by the region's raisin and wine tradition that hasmarked its inhabitants: true artisans of the land and its fruits. In this region, the

wine and raisin world are interwoven -one cannot live without the other.

AXARQUÍA

4. gRAPE GROWING AND WINE-PRODUCING REGIONS


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AXARQUÍA


VARIETIES AND CULTIVATION

In Axarquía, all the landis covered by vines:men's hands have notleft any barren squareinch of land throughoutthe years. Grapeharvesters have workedhard beneath the sun,one that does not set

even in winter -cold weather is unknown here.

Vine cultivating in Axarquía means fighting hand to hand with the terrain. Nomechanisation can be implemented here, and the only aid men can counton are the beasts of burden that carry the harvested fruit from theplantations to the paseros for sun-drying or to the press. Crops are low-pruning and the slopes are so highly steep in some areas that vinecultivation in Axarquía is also known as heroic or steep-slope cultivation.

Sometimes, young wine-growers find it extremely hard to follow the land'stradition, and they leave the estates inherited from their parents to earn aliving in the construction or tourism sectors. Some others come back to thevineyard with innovative ideas and set up their own wineries based on whatthey learned from their grandparents or in university courses. Thus, newwineries are emerging in Axarquía, where the Control Board for Designationof Origin offers expert advice.

While travelling around, you will see vineyards one after the other as if theywere just one, but actually they are all smallholdings. The land is divided intoa lot of parcels, each one covering no more than one hectare.

Work is not over after harvesting, for sweet wine and raisins require grapesto be sun-dried. Visitors who come over in August will be able to see thewonderful paseros, a farmhouse tradition now existing only in the provinceof Málaga.

Depending on what the grapes will be used for -raisins or wine making-- theyare exposed to the sun for longer or shorter periods respectively. If grapesare used for making raisins, they are reduced to one third of their originalvolume, the other two thirds evaporate.

Both the plantation and then raisins and wine making in this peculiar regionin the Málaga province need the whole family's labour, from the children tograndparents -quite a particular way of life.The region's vines cover some 3,000 ha, allof which are occupied by muscatel varietyfor fruit consumption as a dessert, and formaking wine and raisins.

Axarquía's muscatel variety is best knownfor its characteristic superb aroma andsweetness. Its musts reach 15º Bauméprior to sun-drying. This variety has been inAxarquía for ages. The region's poor soiland the sunny and dry climate lead to lowproduction volumes and high fruit quality.Wine produced in Axarquía is sweet, well-rounded and rich.

19 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . A x a r q u í a Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil

SOIL AND CLIMATE

Axarquía extends from the coast to the interior of the province of Málaga,forming a corridor that reaches peaks more than 2,000 metres high. As theregion is near the sea, it benefits from the high relative humidity needed togrow muscatel grapes, but at the same time flowers do not fertilise efficiently,so that they develop into a low number of good quality grapes. This is aconsequence of natural selection, to which the region's soil features alsocontribute. Other environmental characteristics also have impact on the goodquality of the fruit; for example, the Mediterranean climate with its mildwinters featuring temperatures no lower than 10ºC. All these factors have abeneficial influence on the fruit quality, but they also determine lowproduction volumes.

The region has the poorest soil in the province. It is a shallow clayish slatesoil that soon reaches the country rock, which makes farming more difficult.Axarquía is enormous. The Vélez river divides the vine area into two: theeastern and the low areas. In low Axarquía (Moclinejo, Almáchar, El Borge,Cútar, Comares and Totalán), harvest starts in early August, the earliestharvest time in the whole province. In eastern Axarquía (Cómpeta), it startsat the beginning of September.

The yearly rainfall here is 400 litres, the province's lowest figure.

SUMMARY BACKGROUND

Vine-growing has not been an easy task in Axarquía. What has kept theregion's vines alive is the spirit embedded in its traditions,determination and courage, making every effort to maintain the qualityof its vines, even in tough times.

Today, wines made in Axarquía are at their greatest splendour.Traditionally, the region used to supply must to wineries in the capital,but nowadays it has many wineries whose products are really good.Muscatel has scaled great heights to reach excellent sweet and drywine production steps.

20 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . A x a r q u í a Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil

21 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Mounta ins o f Málaga





OVERVIEW

Málaga is surrounded by mountains that make the sea its natural way outand protect the city against weather inclemency. Sierra de Mijas, Serraníade Ronda and El Torcal are foothills of the Sierra Nevada that form acapricious mountain amphitheatre. The view from the peaks is reallybeautiful: forests, mountains, and down there lies Málaga, white andelongated along the seacoast. The Guadalmedina river flows to theMediterranean sea, cutting the region and the city into two.This vine and wine-making region is the paradise of one of the most genuinevarieties in Málaga: pedro ximén. It is also a point of reference in the worldof wine and one of its privileged sites


The lagares or plantation areascover around 15 ha in theMountains region, one of theirpeculiar aspect is that in thesame place there are the landwith its wild flora, occupying onetenth of the area, the vines andother crops for the locals'consumption.

This whole set is called lagar, which normally means press. This particularuse of the word has been kept for centuries.

The white houses drawn on the landscape are called lagartos, all with theirvines, press and woodland. Today, only a small number of them remain, forthe majority were abandoned at the dawn of the 20th century.

The system of vine cultivation in the Mountains of Málaga is known assteep-slope cultivation. Some vines grow in an almost vertical terrain thatmakes it impossible to introduce mechanisation and also makes manualwork difficult. This situation leads to the preservation of ancient cultivationtraditions.

The Mountains of Málaga area region in which harvestingtakes place late, for it startsin September and sometimesit goes on well into October.

Pedro ximén is the variety inthis viticulture region, butmuscatel also grows here. InEngland, wines made withpedro ximén were calledmountain wines and werewell known back in the 18th century, when Málaga Wine was a commondrink at tables around the globe. Today, the term "mountain wine" isconsidered as incorrect, since sometimes it is used for wines not producedin Málaga, and some other times, it refers to drinks that are not even wine;thus, the right term is Málaga Wine.

index editorial . Mounta ins o f Málaga Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil

SOIL AND CLIMATE

The soil of the Mountains of Málaga is made of decomposing slate, one ofthe best types for vine growing, a soil that witnessed the birth of great wines.It is a shallow layer, between 10 and 30 cm, below which the country rocklies. The vine roots are huge: they keep on growing down into the slate rockin search for water.

Each plant yields one or one and a half kg of grapes. There is a naturalselection trait, different from other regions in Málaga, which makes itnecessary to harvest early in order to improve grape quality.The production volume is low but this is made up for by the superb qualityof the grape, which makes the cultivation in this rugged terrain profitableboth for the vine-grower and the wine-producer.

Travelling only 10 kilometres from the coast towards the mountains, you willreach an altitude of almost 1,000 m. This feature influences the climate, forthere is a large temperature difference between day and night, which in turnaffects the grape, so the wines made from it are a bit acid.

The yearly rainfall is 500 l/m2, a good volume for vineyards. Besides, theslate soil keeps humidity, which benefits the plants.

SUMMARY BACKGROUND

During the period of Muslim rule, the region had plenty of woods, then cutdown with the advance of the Reconquest. It was in these spots that the firstvines started to grow because the land was distributed among people whocultivated them and organised their life centred on the vineyards.

However, as a consequence of the cut-down of trees and the slate soil,there was continuous flooding of the Guadalmedina river on its way to thesea, which even affected the historical centre of the city of Málaga. Whenthe phylloxera reached the Mountains of Málaga, ruining its vineyards, thepopulation headed for the province's capital city.

The eastern slope was populated again in 1950, and it became the Montesde Málaga Natural Park. This viticulture and viniculture region includes theageing wineries settled in the city of Málaga.

23 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Mounta ins o f Málaga Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil

24 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Nor thern Reg ion

NORTHERN REGION



NORTHERN REGION

OVERVIEW

The Northern Region produces a good proportion of the wines included inthe DO Málaga. Antequera is the administrative centre of the region, but theheart of vine cultivation lies in Molina and Fuente de Piedra. Both localitiesare home to the most important, the largest and oldest viticulture companiesin Málaga, such as Inversiones Santa Ana (subsidiary of López Hermanos),Cooperativa Virgen de la Oliva and Larios P.R. Yet, these are not the onlycompanies established in the area, as new, smaller ones that make qualitywine and foster wine tourism have emerged.

In 2003, Cooperativa Virgen de la Oliva, a winery that produces quality wine,was established in the region, paving the way for the birth of other wineries,many of them restored and others newly created.

So the winds started to change for the better in this region in 2001, when theControl Board cancelled the regulation that made it compulsory to ageingwine in the Málaga communal area, and therefore it can be aged in wine-making areas at present.


Vine cultivation covers near 1,000 ha, and the volume produced here is thehighest in the province. The relatively flat terrain, characteristic of theNorthern Region, allows for farming mechanisation. However, cultivation byhand is still used in many vineyards because it is required for some tasks,sun-drying, for instance, which is a traditional practice in the elaboration ofMálaga Wine.

This generous land witnesses big plantations living together with small onesas well as new experimental cultivation of dark and light-skinned varietiesnever seen in Málaga before, used to make quality dry wine that will belaunched under the DO Sierras de Málaga.

The traditional Málaga varieties, pedro ximén and muscatel, are prominentin the vineyards covering hundreds of ha, but pedro ximén is the trueprotagonist in the Northern Region.

As for muscatel, in this region it yields small berries also called "Moorish",because this variety from Alexandria grows better near the coast. This iswhy the small-grape variant is more abundant in Axarquía.

index editorial . Nor thern Reg ion Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil


SOIL AND CLIMATE

The Northern Region's relief features both plains and low hillocks. Itsclimate consists of cold winters and hot summers, with high temperaturevariations between day and night; yearly rainfall is 500 l/m2, irregularlydistributed through the year.

The vineyard extends along the border of the high plateau in Antequera,which lies 500 m above sea level. The soil consists in Cretaceous slates,and in the subsoil there is usually a claypan layer, a sedimentary rock withfine-grain sand and clay arranged in thin layers. Soil layers in the NorthernRegion are rather shallow, no thicker than 10 cm in some areas.

SUMMARY BACKGROUND

Viticulture and viniculture tradition in the Northern Region started around1950, when the first vines were planted with the aim of offering thepopulation a reason to stay in the countryside instead of looking for apromissory future in the growing industrial sector at that moment. Theintroduction of vines in this region helped people decide to settle in it. Vines,together with olive trees, became the axis around which the economy of theNorthern Region has spun since then. Wine and olives are the main farmingproducts here, totalling 50% of the region's business sales figures.

Today, the Northern Region is an emerging one, where investments arechannelled mainly into tourism, an industry that also benefits from wine-making related activities contributing to a true revolution in inland tourism.

index editorial . Nor thern Reg ion Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil

27 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Ser ran ía de Ronda

SERRANÍA DE RONDA



SERRANÍA DE RONDA

OVERVIEW

Located west of Málaga, Ronda has one of the most undulated terrains inthe province. It is best known for its landscape, beautiful villages and itsfamous bullring. The region is now starting to write the first chapters of thebook on its peculiar wine history, which, after many years of being practicallynot existent, has started to inscribe quite many events in it.

A boom started before the 1980's, and at the dawn of the 21st century,Ronda began to witness the materialisation of a great number of viticultureand winery new projects.

Therefore, there are no reconversion projects; instead, all the projects arefor new vineyards and wineries -carefully designed vineyards an wineriesaiming at producing quality wine. The cutting-edge technology and thearchitectural imagination expressed in local wineries are in full harmony withthe surrounding natural beauty. The wine routes the Serranía offers areparticularly charming, mirroring the richness that wine-making art hasbrought to Ronda.

Almost all the wineries in Ronda make red, white and rosé wines under theDO Sierras de Málaga and the sub-designation Serranía de Ronda.

CULTIVATION CHARACTERISTICS

Vines are currently being planted in Ronda. Most cultivations use the head-trained system, and they cover between 5 and 20 ha. On the hills,technological innovation works together with the very favourable soil andclimate for the production of quality grapes. 90% out of all the vines aredark-skinned varieties. Many plantations are still on their experimentalstage, and each wine-grower is assessing the development of their vines,the most abundant being tempranillo, syrah, cabernet sauvignon andmerlot.

Although some wine-growers established wineries in the 80's, it was notuntil the 21st century that wines from Ronda were launched into the market,even if there had been a few exceptions.

index editorial . Ser ran ía de Ronda Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil


SOIL AND CLIMATE

The city of Ronda is situated on two hills divided by a deep ravine (Tajo deRonda). There is a set of complex microclimates that have an impact on vinecultivation. Grazalema and Sierra de las Nieves are the most prominentmountain ranges, at whose foothills vines do well, protected from the wind.

The continental type of climate dominates Ronda, with large temperaturedifferences between day and night -even in the summer- which contribute tothe high quality of the grapes from this region.

Ronda's rainfall is the highest in Málaga, with an average volume reaching600 l per year.

Slates are predominant in Ronda's soil, which is not homogeneous fromvineyard to vineyard. In some plantations mechanisation can beimplemented, while in others, stones and steep slopes make it difficult touse such modern farming methods. Experts agree on the fact that Ronda'ssoil is at its peak in terms of maturity.

SUMMARY BACKGROUND

Apparently, Ronda wants to settle a debt with the history of wine. More thantwo thousand years ago, Ronda was a wine land, but the only remains fromthe original vines lie in the ruins of Acinipo, a city nesting on the mountainrange. One of the maxims every wine-grower must follow is that you will notplant vines where the Romans have not done so: if you try you will fail forsure. The Romans used to study the soil and temperatures, and theyconcluded that vines would not grow over a certain altitude.

Ronda started its career as a wine producing region only at the end of the20th century. Today, vines are no longer a symbolic crop but a real economicentity even at the international level, which can be easily observed at theheavy investments in new wineries over a short period of time.

The new class of vine-growers and wine-producers was born in the land ofRonda itself, which has welcomed them warmly. They are true artisans whoare in line with the region's essence -the essence of vines and wineries.Little by little, the first wines are emerging while vines start bearing their fruit.Undoubtedly, the region has a promising future.

index editorial . Ser ran ía de Ronda Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil

30 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Western Coas t

WESTERN COAST



WESTERN COAST

OVERVIEW

This vine-growing and wine-producing region is situated on the western endof the province. To the west it borders on Campo de Gibraltar, in Cadiz.Vines are grown in three localities: Manilva, Estepona and Marbella, wheretourism has had such an impact that they have virtually abandoned wineproducing. This activity is now just symbolic in a region that was one of themain producers of wine in the province in the old days.

Today, Manilva is the district with the largest vineyard in the region, located97 km away from Málaga, 12 km from Estepona and 30 km from Línea dela Concepción. The vineyards are kept not as a source of economicprofitability but as a traditional feature that contributes to the beauty of thelandscape.

Estepona and Marbella stand out for their tourism oriented economy, whichhas taken land from the vineyard as time passed by.


Grapes from the Western Coast are destined to eat as dessert, to makeraisins and, to a lesser extent, to make wine. The most widely cultivatedvariety is the Alexandria or Málaga muscatel, with its meaty and intenselyaromatic fruit.

The introduction of muscatel in the mid 20th century meant an extension ofa vineyard that had been reducing as a consequence of restrictions tocommerce in the 19th century, when winemaking came to be placed in asubordinate position.

Nowadays, the whole vineyard covers a very small area, and it has recentlybeen further reduced due to housing developments. The largest cultivatedarea lies in Manilva, occupying an area of around 500 ha.Manilva is the traditional heart of the surrounding vineyard, which isolatesthe inland village.

Sugar content is not checked before harvesting; this is why some wine-growers start harvesting in mid August, others during September, and thereare those who do it in the first week of October.

First, the grapes are cut from the vines, then they are arranged on paserosfor sun-drying, and finally they are crushed. After crushing, the momentcomes to prepare must. Today, ancient crushing methods are beingreplaced by presses (local people call them molinillos).

index editorial . Western Coas t Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil

SOIL AND CLIMATE

The Western Coast runs alongside the Mediterranean Sea. However, itsclimate is also influenced by the Atlantic Ocean, given the region's proximityto the Strait of Gibraltar. The vineyard extends on moderate-slope hillsideswhose feet stand not far from the seacoast. Farmhouse methods areemployed in the cultivation of vines in this region. The vineyard benefits fromthe excellent and singular microclimate featuring a prolonged sunlight dailyperiod.

The soil is whitish, with some sand content due to the region's proximity tothe sea.

There is climatic stability throughout the year: winters are mild and summersdo not present very high temperatures: perfect conditions for growingmuscatel. The annual average temperature is 18ºC.

Apart from small temperature variations, the region has a rainy climate, withhigher rainfall than in Axarquía, but lower than in Serranía de Ronda.

SUMMARY BACKGROUND

V ines have been cultivated in the Western Coast since timeimmemorial. The vineyard has always been rich, but it reached itspeak in the 17th and 18th centuries. Since then, there have beenbetter and worse periods, but when muscatel grapes were broughtfrom Alexandria, vines started flourishing.

The vines that we see today are quite old; they were planted 40years ago. Since then, no new vines have been planted because, aswe mentioned before, housing developments related with the touristboom resulted in the vineyard being neglected.

Anyway, the region has a good number of wine-growers whonormally buy grapes elsewhere in Málaga, for grapes from theregion are destined to eat as dessert or to make raisins.

32 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Western Coas t Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil


AXARQUÍA

Time seems to have stopped many centuries ago in the vineyards ofAxarquia, but its towns have progressed and opened up to tourism. Thepaseros, the popular fiestas of cheerful towns enveloped in sunlight,and the thousand of footpaths are worth spending here a few days andgetting to know the region intimately.

We suggest two interesting routes for this region in which, amongstother things, you will get to know three wineries. Each one has its ownstory but the three are devoted to the same activity: growing andproducing DO Málaga and Sierras de Málaga Wines (white, red androsé) that deserve to be tasted. Relax a few days in this paradise tofeel it intensely.

ROUTE ACROSS THE MUSCATEL KINGDOM

ITINERARYMoclinejo: Bodega Dimobe

Almáchar: Museo de la Pasa (Raisin Museum)Comares: Atalaya de la Axarquía (Axarquía's vantage point)

From the city of Málaga, we start the journey on the motorway 340 towardsAlmería, exiting it at the junction for Rincón de la Victoria-Benagalbón. Soon, you

will see a sign indicates a road towards Moclinejo, our first destination, 12 km fromRincón de la Victoria. This picturesque village sits 500 metres above sea level, extendingover the hillside of the Córdoba and Sierras Blancas hills. Visitors to the town enter undersome arches as if the town is wishing them welcome.

5. tOURIST ROUTES

AXARQUÍA


NORTHERN REGION

SERRANÍA DE RONDA

WESTERN COAST

index editorial . T o u r i s t R o u t e s : A x a r q u í a Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil


We recommend that you leave your car at the entrance to the town becausethe streets are very narrow and the distances to travel are short. As we walktowards the first winery we are going to visit, we will see the Iglesia deNuestra Señora de Gracia (Our Lady of Grace Church), built in the 16th and17th centuries, with beautiful Arab arches in its bell tower. Moclinejo is asmall town, with a population of almost one thousand, where everybodyknows each other. The people here are friendly and open, always ready tohelp visitors with directions. For this reason, the easiest thing to do is to asksomeone for Dimobe or Muñoz brothers wineries, which certainly, will not bemore than five minutes away.

Bodega Dimobe produces wines belonging to DO Málaga and DO Sierrasde Málaga. This family-run winery, founded in 1927, has recently opened itsdoors to tourism. Not only has it launched new wines into the market, butalso its premises have been completely renewed and they house a wine

museum full of freshness,with traditional pieces thatthe Munõz brothers, thewinery owners, have rescuedfrom neglect. There aresome curiosities: the goathides, for instance, that wereused to transport wine. DonQuixote "fought" againstsimilar ones in one of theinns he came across on hisadventures.

After leaving the town and collecting the car, we continue on the roadtowards Almáchar, a town devoted to vine-growing since time immemorial.The muscatel grape of Almáchar is used to produce Málaga Wine, but it ismost well known as a raisin.

Two kilometres before catching sight of the town, you can stop in a viewingpoint on the road and photograph the beautiful panorama of the steep slopevine cultivation of Axarquía. It will take around ten minutes to arrive at ourdestination. We would opt to leave the vehicle at the entrance as the trafficinside is complicated and, most important, the town is worth walking around.There is an ample space with a pretty corner covered with vegetation wherepassengers wait for the bus in the shade. Of course, it can also be used asa meeting point. Once there, it might be worth asking for the Tourist Office,as the area offers a wide range of attractions to its visitors.

Drying grapes in the sun of Axarquía is a very common practice in Almáchar,which is surrounded by paseros that make a unique sight, for they are full ofgrapes from 15 August. Almáchar is a lively town, clean and cheerful. Itsstreets are like the ground on which it sits: steep, with steps and handrails,full of flowers and dazzling in the sun. A few years ago, the town councilstarted organising a competition at which residents embellish the streetsand squares, and it is the town residents who always keep their town readyto be photographed.


Almáchar celebrates its patron fiesta honouring Virgen del Amparo (Virgin ofProtection) from 29 to 31 July. The first Saturday of September the Fiestadel Ajoblanco, declared of tourist interest in Andalusia, is celebrated after LaNoche de las Candelas (Night of Candles). This day they serve hundreds oflitres of one of the typical dishes of Axarquía's gastronomy: ajoblanco. If youcome here on these dates, you are welcome to the party. You will have agood time and will feel integrated with the people of the town, who carefullydecorate the streets with old farming tools, dolls dressed in traditionalclothing, a lot of muscatel grapes and flowers.

If you decide to eat in Almáchar, we recommend that you ask for a goodrestaurant. The gastronomy of the region combines the best of theMediterranean meals with the great Málaga Wines. And don't leave withouttrying ajoblanco (see recipe below), the speciality, which can even beserved in a terrine to spread on bread. You should also try the savoury thegrapes au liqueur that they offer you with the homemade dessert.

On our visit around the town we will see the Parroquia de San Mateo (SaintMathew's Parish Church). Further on, a typical house, one of the many thatstand one attached to the other to keep themselves upright on the steepterrain, is home to the Museo de la Pasa (Raisin Museum). Please, go in.

The Museo de la Pasa shows the ordinary life of vine-growers, their habitsand most familiar tools. It is a homage to the hard task passed from fathersto sons that remains unchanged with the passing of time. One of the typicaltasks in the area is sun-drying grapes in paseros (exposing them to the sunfor a few days). The museum, a typical dwelling of Almáchar, is furnishedwith authentic pieces, donated by the locals of the area. It is divided intovarious rooms, like any home, and hanging on the walls are antiquephotographs of the sun-drying labour, shared by the whole family.

35 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . T o u r i s t R o u t e s : A x a r q u í a Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil


After this delightful visit, wehead towards Comares. It is16 kilometres fromAlmáchar on a windingroad, but worth the effort toget there. Comares sits on ahigh plain from which youcan see much of Axarquía.Surrounded by vines andpaseros, visitors can delightin the magnificent scenery

from any of the viewpoints on the road. Once in the town, you will find manymonuments, for instance, the Muslim well, declared a historic artisticmonument in 1931, and the Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Encarnación(Church of Our Lady of the Incarnation). You could also have lunch in anyof the restaurants you will find in Almáchar. Read the menu before enteringin order to make certain that they have DO Málaga or DO Sierras de Málagawines, which they usually do.

Furthermore, if you like hiking, we would suggest that you spend the nighthere, and the following day you can take any of the routes leading to thefarthest corners of Axarquía. In the Town Hall or the Tourist Office they willinform you with full details.

You will get to know the warmth of Axarquía's people and the deliciousgastronomy of the area. Those interested in enology will particularly enjoythe Cerro Patarra path, starting in Almáchar. It is a 4 kilometre round trip onpaths and dirt tracks that lead us deep within a landscape covered withvineyards. This route takes 3 hours on foot.

ROUTE ACROSS MÁLAGA WINE AROMAS

ITINERARYVélez-Málaga: UcopaxaTorroxCómpeta: Bodega Almijara

The main destination of our route is Cómpeta, a vine-growing town parexcellence, but we can also take the opportunity to make some interestingstops in Vélez-Málaga and Torrox.

Take the motorway N-340 towards Almería either from Málaga, Comares or anyof the towns of Axarquía you are visiting, and take the 272 exit for Vélez-Málaga.

Vélez-Málaga is a large city with a population of more than 50,000, situatedin the centre of Axarquía. The Iglesia de Santa María la Mayor, (Grand SaintMary's Church), in Mudejar style, converted into a parish church by theCatholic Kings in 1489, the Iglesia de San Juan (Saint John's Church) andIglesia de San Francisco (Saint Francis's Church) stand out. Upon a hill sitsthe Ermita de la Virgen de los Remedios (Virgin of Remedies' Chapel). Butthe district also has three other chapels: Virgen de la Cabeza (Virgin of theHead); Ermita de Santa Rosalía (Saint Rosalia's Chapel); and the oldest ofthem all, the Ermita de San Sebastián (Saint Sebastian's Chapel).

Other interesting spots are the Convento de Nuestra Señora de Gracia (OurLady of Grace's Convent), the Convento de San Francisco (Saint Francis'sConvent) and the Convento de las Carmelitas (Carmelites' Convent), theErmita de Nuestra Señora de los Remedios (Our Lady of Remedies'sChapel). In Vélez-Málaga there is an Arab Fort and a rich cultural heritageincluding the Palacio de los Marqueses de Beniel (Marquises of Beniel'sPalace, Casa de Cervantes (Cervantes's House), the Cruz del Arrabal


(Cross of the Arrabal), the Cruz del Cordero (Cross of the Lamb), the Teatrodel Carmen (Del Carmen Theatre) and the Fuente de Fernando VI(Fountain of Ferdinand VI).

The district has managed to assimilate industrialisation whilst preserving thefamiliar spirit typical of small towns.

The reason for a stop in this town is that, in La Pañoleta-Olivarillo industrialpark is Ucopaxa, a co-operative that sells Málaga Raisins and some DOMálaga naturally sweet wines (with their total alcohol content produced byfermentation), perfect for taking back home. If we continue on our journeytowards Cómpeta, we take motorway 340 towards Almería once again.

We believe that it might be interesting to make a brief stop in Torrox to getto know a place that has one of the most beautiful beaches on the Costa delSol. If you are spending a few days in Málaga, don't miss out visiting Torroxon this or any other day. Torrox sits on the last hills of the Almijara mountainrange, and is famous for the rich agriculture of its meadows, a feature thatis shared by all the low areas in Axarquía. In any little shop of the town, ifyou wish, you can buy tomatoes, beans or top quality tropical products, suchas avocado, all of them cultivated in this area. We suggest that you make atrip around Torrox, but it is best to park the car and try to walk around. Thestreets test the fitness of any visitor: although very beautiful, they are steep,with many steps, whitewashed houses, and the sweet aroma of jasmine.Strolling around, you will find the magnificent 18th century Iglesia deNuestra Señora de la Encarnación (Our Lady of the Incarnation's Church)and the Iglesia de San Roque (Saint Roche's Church). Also worth seeing isthe graceful Ermita de la Virgen de las Nieves (Virgin of the Snow's Chapel),built in the 16th century.

You will certainly get like Torrox, especially because this town is like a shopwindow for the traditional food of Axarquía. At the promenade or at theConstitución Square you can eat some tapas, always accompanied by a DOMálaga Wine, or any typical dish of Axarquía's rich gastronomy: migacortijera, fried squash with garlic and bread, gacha torroxeña (type of oilcake), ensaladilla arriera (salad made with tomato, onion, orange, cod,olives, olive oil, vinegar and salt) or buñuelos de viento (hollow fritter).

From Torrox, take the regional route that leads up to Cómpeta, 11 kilometresaway, where you are going to visit the Bodega Almijara, and of course, atown full of historical, gastronomic and vinicultural riches. Catch sight of thetown, but before arriving, follow a sign to the left indicating the Almijarawinery, descending a few metres until you find it. It is very small, in the styleof a farmhouse and surrounded by vines and paseros. It has a shop where,in addition to wine made in the winery, there are other products of Axarquía.We recommend that you take home a jar of cane honey to accompany anydessert, together with a DO Málaga Wine. It will make you relive yourholidays and meanderings through the wine route of Axarquía.

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The wines produced by the Bodega Almijara have achieved recognition inthe specialised press and form part of the wine lists of the most prestigiousSpanish restaurants. Quality is the winery's "second name", a quality owedto the meticulous selection of the grape and impeccable production process.

In the area where the grapes are received and stemmed, it is surprising tosee the old press that is still used. The fruit is placed in circular cans ofsynthetic material (before, they were made of esparto grass, which broughtan unwanted flavour to the wine), one on top of the other. The pressure isproduced bottom-up, with greater or lesser force depending on the winethey are going to make. The ageing area is replete with new French oakbarrels.

We leave the winery, bidding farewell to the visitors that have come to knowit as we have, and continue towards Cómpeta, where we arrive in less than5 minutes. This village is very steep, like the other towns we have alreadyvisited. The lower part (to the south) is surrounded by terraces and from adistance visitors will think they are stairs, absolutely necessary to reach thetown. Cómpeta has a population of more than 12,000. In its streets, beready to go up and down hills --there is not even a metre that is flat. We willeasily reach the Almijara Square, where we can park the car and get lost inthis extraordinary district. The village, embedded between the Tejeda andAlmijara mountains, has been named "Cornisa de la Costa del Sol" (theCornice of Costa del Sol).

On 15th August, they celebrate the Noche del Vino (Night of Wine), which isthe most characteristic of all the festivals organised in this village, and isconsidered of tourist interest. Grapes are crushed in a traditional press, andwine is the indisputable star of the party.

The Iglesia de la Asunción (Church of the Assumption) is easily made out bylooking upwards, for it has a 30-metre tower rising high above small whitehouses. The church dates back to 1505, and its construction was orderedby Queen Isabella the Catholic. The top of the tower affords extraordinaryviews. Cómpeta is also home to fauna now scarce in Spain: ibex, martensand foxes.

The views and the beauty of the place are not all it has to offer, for itspeople's kindness is striking, and its gastronomy includes typical productsfrom Axarquía which are of the highest quality.

In Cómpeta, there is a high number of good quality restaurants. Make surethat the menu includes DO Málaga or Sierras of Málaga Wines, and enjoya pleasant evening. If possible, don't miss out trying fried aubergines withcane honey, a delicious appetiser.

In Avenida de la Constitución, there is a restaurant called Museo del Vino,in a beautiful setting, full of barrels and other elements belonging the worldof wine. They serve good Málaga Wines, and you can also buy souvenirshere.

This picturesque corner of Axarquía is the last destination of this wine route.If you wish to finish the day here and have not made hotel reservations,there are some hotels and rural houses available. Ask for information at theTourist Office. You will remember Cómpeta forever.

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AXARQUÍA

MOCLINEJO For those who are keen onphysical activity, Moclinejo'ssurroundings offer attractive

itineraries among hillocks andravines.

ALMÁCHARParish of Saint Mathew is

the monument parexcellence of this village.

COMARESYou should visit La

Tahona, one of the towersof Castillo de Comares

(Comares Castle).

CÓMPETALand of wines such as

muscatel, off-dry and drywine. It is well known in theprovince and elsewhere in

Spain.

VÉLEZ-MÁLAGAThe Vélez district is the largest and mostpopulated in Axarquía. It includes many

villages: Torre del Mar, Benajarafe,Triana, Trapiche, Almayate, Cajiz or

Chilches, among others.

TORROXThe Roman remains ofFaro de Torrox (Romanvilla, baths, cemetery)

cannot be missed.

Museo de la Pasa(Raisin Museum)

BodegaDimobe

UcopaxaBodegaAlmijara

Atalaya de La Axarquía(Axarquía's vantage point)

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ROUTE ACROSS THE MUSCATEL KINGDOM ROUTE ACROSS MÁLAGA WINE AROMAS

. T o u r i s t R o u t e s : A x a r q u í a

SYMBOLSBeginning of the route

End of the routeSuggested routeSuggested route

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In your travel across the large vine-growing region of the Mountains ofMálaga, you will enter the natural park in whose shelter sprout the vineyardsand where Antigua Casa de Guardia, the oldest winery in the province,makes its quality wines. From there, we descend towards the city of Málagato indulge in the cheerful atmosphere of the thousands of taverns, proud oftheir wine culture. There, the DO Málaga and DO Sierras de Málaga winesplay a leading role in the tasting of tapas and raciones (assorted dishes).Our journey finishes with a visit to the large wineries for maturing wineslocated in the city. There, we can drink DO Málaga wines and also Barón deRivero, the DO Sierras de Málaga white wine, produced by the LópezHermanos winery.

ROUTE ACROSS THE LATE RIPENING AREA

ITINERARYEl lagar de TorrijosAntigua casa de GuardiaNatural Park viewpoints

The grape harvest in the Mountains of Málaga does not take place until theend of September, when the season for harvesting grapes used to make DOMálaga wines in the province ends. This route takes its name (late ripeningarea) from this fact. The vine-growers of the hills have managed to cultivatevines in an unfriendly environment, where they have to drive themselves toohard to dominate the land.

Their efforts have developed a peculiar structure in their estates, whichintegrate the vines, the press and the woodland. In other words, thestructure represents the perfect marriage of wild and domesticated nature.This route takes an interesting trip to the heart of the hills, where eternaltraditions survive, despite the passing of time.

From the city of Málaga, in the Fuente Olletas quarter, take the C-345 road(known as the road of the hills) towards Colmenar. Although the road hasmany curves, it is wide and has little traffic, with viewpoints from which youcan admire the magnificent countryside below. Passing Fuente la Reina,there are signs that lead you to the eco-museum Lagar de Torrijos, our firststop, about 30 minutes from Málaga.

40 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Tour i s t Rou tes : Mounta ins o f Málaga Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil

The restoration of this estate, one of the many that spatter the hills, revivesthe lifestyle of a traditional family at the end of the 19th century, when theregion was home to more than 7,000 inhabitants (12,000 of which lived inthe capital city). Wine-making was at the core of the activities in this countryhouse. Visitors will surely find that the enormous 160-year-old press sittingnear the entrance is really amazing. In the same room, there is the press tocrush grapes for obtaining the first must (40% of the total), the rest beingobtained using the ingenious press with a system of wedges, capable ofexerting a force of 12,000 kg, that squeeze out up to the last drop. At thattime, cooling systems were not available, and the must was put into large,semi-buried earthenware jars, where it fermented.

Even if the Lagar de Torrijos is open all year round, the best time to go thereis in September, when the harvest takes place. Everyone is invited to thefiesta that celebrates the making of the first must on the third or fourthSaturday of September (depending on when the harvest takes place). If youstay in Málaga on these dates, we suggest that you should participate in thisfiesta, as it is an unforgettable and unique experience.

Moreover, from mid October to late November, the eco-museum Lagar deTorrijos is the departure point for the Ruta de los Lagares (Route of the vineestates), a guided hike in which an expert explains everything about theancient buildings in the outskirts of Torrijos, the traditions related with theharvest, the crushing of the grapes, and the flora.

We leave the Lagar de Torrijos and head for the winery called Antigua Casade Guardia, on the road from Olías to Comares. Founded in 1840, thewinery still has the ordinary structure of the vineyard, the press and the hills,characteristic of this viticulture area. Before arriving at Olías, a fewkilometres from the village, the simple but elegant structure of the AntiguaCasa de Guardia stands out, so perfect and white that it seems it was builtrecently, but in fact it is the oldest winery in Málaga. Its founder was José dela Guardia, a Spanish gentleman who was close friends with Queen IsabellaII, who appointed him governor of Segovia. It was in 1860 when the estatewas passed on to the Garijo family, who have worked in it and produced andcommercialised Málaga Wine since then. José Garijo, grandfather to thecurrent owners, was a solicitor who worked for the State. Everything heknew about viticulture was self-taught, and he wrote important studies aboutMálaga Wine. His knowledge drove him to install the winery in the hills whilstrespecting the natural environment. Originally, the estate had only a wineryand a place for the labourers to do all the manual work after the harvest. Itwas not until 1965 that the press was installed.


In this shrine that shelters criaderas and soleras, one can hear the silenceand breathe the peaceful air, typical of sacred places. In the very old barrelsmatures the wine made in the vineyards of Romerillo and La Letría, the twovineyards that stand at the feet of the winery on almost vertical walls.Antigua Casa de Guardia has opened its doors to tourists transformed theold house into a Wine Museum, which exhibits many interesting objects anda collection of important documents that the Garijos have been gatheringover the years. The winery also houses a tasting room and a shop where wecan buy wines made in the winery.

ROUTE ALONG THE MÁLAGA OF WINE: MUSEUMS AND TAVERNS

The complex world of the Málaga Wine has left a historical mark that can befound in the taverns, shops and museums of the city of Málaga. On thisroute, we propose a trip full of flavour and knowledge along a way that willtake us to the places where you can get acquainted with the culture of wine.

We start our trip on foot, from the Plaza de la Constitución (ConstituciónSquare) on a sunny morning (in Málaga, mornings are always sunny).Breakfast in any of the cafés that you will find in the area, in Pasaje deChinitas, Larios street or any adjacent street. Then we head towardsCompañía street at the end of the Plaza de la Constitución. An 18th centurybuilding with running balconies and a central patio with galleries houses theheadquarters of the Sociedad Económica de Amigos del País (Friends ofthe Country Economic Society).

Most impressive is the marblefaçade and the large medallion, anallegory of Montepío de Socorro alos Cosecheros del Obispado deMálaga (the Benefit Society for theAssistance of the Grape Harvestersof the Bishopric of Málaga), acharitable society performing animportant social role in the city. Therelief depicts a scene includingvines, olives, figs and almonds. Thebuilding, raised in 1785, wasdeclared Artistic ArchitecturalMonument in 1932.


We walk down Compañía street, which leads us straight to Carretería, amain street in the old quarter. Then we take Biedmas street, the second onthe left. A few metres down, the street widens and turns into a small plaza.Since 2005, the Museo del Vino (Wine Museum) of Málaga is located in therenovated Palacio de Biedmas (a 18th century building). This magnificentpalace is one of the tourist attractions of the city and reveals the importanceof Málaga Wine throughout the centuries. Let's go in. The interior isspacious, and two of its four floors are used for exhibitions. The labels andbottles from the old days on display are very intersting. Information panelsreview the history and production of Málaga Wine from the 19th centuryonwards. The museum is also the headquarters of the Control Board ofDesignations of Origin.

Our visit to the museum has come to an end, so we return to the small plaza,a welcoming spot, full of charm. Opposite the museum there is a small hoteland, next to it, is the Casa Hermandad de Viñeros (Brotherhood of WineGrowers' House). From its enormous doors that open onto Biedmas Plaza,the Thrones of the Virgin and the Christ of Wine Growers leave for theMaundy Thursday procession. If we look at the end of one of the narrowstreets, we can see two remarkable buildings. The one with the blue façadewas the birthplace of the poet Salvador González Anaya, and the other isthe house of Cánovas del Castillo, the celebrated liberal-conservativepolitician, born in Málaga in the 19th century.

We return to Carretaría and now take the street on the right, almost oppositeBiedmas street. This is Andrés Pérez street, where the Iglesia de lasDominicas (Dominicans's Church) lies, a beautiful temple that looks after theimages of the Virgin and the Christ of the Wine Growers. In September, in aliturgical act, the recently harvested grapes and the first must are blessedhere.

We leave the church and return to the Plaza de la Constitución, where wetake Santa María street, just at the corner where the Café Central stands.Next door, we will see the specialised shop selling gastronomic products ofMálaga and the rest of Andalusia, and we can take a look at the manybrands of Málaga Wine on display in the shop window. At noon the timecomes to enjoy one the most cheerful and authentic Málaga custom: thetapeo (eating a small portion of any dish gracefully arranged on a plate), theperfect occasion to accompany our glass of wine. The best moment to tastethese delicious snacks is before lunch, and the best places are theflavoursome taverns of the city.


A little further on, on Santa María street, we enter Quitapenas. It is small,with a terrace where large casks are used as tables. Inside, our attention isdrawn to the huge barrels behind the counter with the names of the wineswhich they contain: pedro ximén, dorado moscatel, pajarete, etc… and thesavoury tapas that are displayed like a fan, on the counter. The waiterexplains that the pescaíto frito (deep-fried small fish) and the frituramalagueña (fried food from Málaga) are the most typical dishes. We willsurely not be disappointed if we try them. Quitapenas is a chain of tavernsspread all over the province of Málaga that always serve wine withDesignation of Origin labels.

We walk down Santa María street, and when it crosses Molina Lario street,we can see the Cathedral. We delight in its outstanding majesty, but we willvisit it some other time, when we follow another of the numerous routes thatthe Costa del Sol Tourist Board has drawn up for us. We cross Molina Lario,and a little further on, turn left on to San Agustín street. The façade of theMuseo Picasso does not go unnoticed. This museum is the city's recenthomage to its favourite son. It contains a permanent collection of more than200 works related to the brilliant Málaga-born painter in love with light.

Walking down San Agustín street we pass by the Cistersian Abbey of SaintAnne. It houses a very interesting museum of sacred art, and in the abbeyvisitors may also buy delicious handmade cakes made by the nuns followingvery old recipes. We retrace our steps towards Santa María street, whichsoon becomes Císter street. In the shop on the corner at the end of thestreet, La Exquisita, we can be seduced by some gastronomic products ofthe area or by some Málaga Wine. In this same corner, at the feet of theAlcazaba, there is the bus stop for the Málaga Tour. We can go on this tourat some other moment if we want to take a trip around the mostcharacteristic places of a city where Romans, Muslims and Christians haveleft their indelible mark.

Our wine route takes us along Císter street, but turns to the right, towardsthe Aduana Square, where we find the Barril del Místico, which opened itsdoors in 2000 and is committed to spreading the culture of the Málaga Winewithin the framework of a tavern. Here you can choose from the most wellknown to the rarest Málaga Wines. Its wine list shows more than 104 typesof wines made in the Bodega Antigua Casa de Guardia and the otherwineries registered with the Control Board. Barril del Místico offers wineboards with choices that can be married with the delicious and varied dishesin its menu. It is the perfect place to talk about wine, which it sells by the litreor bottled. Barril del Místico sells articles related with wine that are difficultto find, like handmade cups, venencias jerezanas (long-handled dipperused for sampling sherry wines), barrels, etc. One of its rooms functions asan exhibition room.


We say goodbye to its owner, José Garijo, and go to the Alameda Principal,where our route curves round to the Antigua Casa de Guardia tavern, theplace to find the most mature of the complex world of Málaga Wine. Manyillustrious characters have passed through its doors in its one-hundred-and-fifty-year history: Gregorio Marañón, Salvador Rueda and Antonio Gala. Itretains the 19th-century charm that comes from the time it was founded, in1840. This charm is one of its virtues, as are its wines produced in theAntigua Casa de Guardia winery and its shell fish.

We leave the tavern with a good taste in themouth to continue our route towards El Trujal, anestablishment that keeps samples of almost allthe wines in the world. It is close to the MercadoCentral de Atarazanas (Shipyard Market), which isin the street behind. El Trujal's owner, AntonioJesús Gutiérrez, is in love with the culture of wine.He has transformed the premises into a centre oflearning and has turned the marriage of wine andgastronomy into an art. Go in and check.

On leaving El Trujal, we take the street on the right handside and we will find ourselves in the Pasillo de Santa Isabel. Here one findsthe Museo de Artes Populares (Popular Arts Museum), which holds apermanent exhibition of the work of Málaga wine-makers, as well as manyother curiosities about the customs and traditions of this land.

We can finish the afternoon taking a stroll down Larios street, thecommercial zone par excellence and one of the most important of the city.The street has been recently remodelled and pedestrianised. Here we cometo the end of our trip to the city of wine.

ROUTE ALONG CRIADERAS AND SOLERAS OF THE CITY OF MÁLAGA

ITINERARYBodega López HermanosBodegas GomaraBodegas Quitapenas

Málaga, the capital city of the province, is home to the largest wineriesnursing and ageing Málaga Wines. Time and wood are essential for givingcomplexity and structure to wine. Both lie in the silence and seclusion oftheir shrines: the wineries that we will visit on our route.

López Hermanos settles in an industrialpark, El Viso, where we arrive by car toget to know the winery with the largestproduction of the province.

This winery, a piece of living history ofMálaga Wines, has made quality thestrategy by which it has maintained itsposition in both national andinternational markets. Its wines havedeveloped along with the taste ofconsumers, whilst maintainingtraditions. Such is the case with its characteristic brands, Málaga Virgen andCartojal. López Hermanos wines have their own life, a story that is caughtup with the events of each moment. The visit to the winery catches ourinterest from the first minute. An old film about Málaga Wine is screened, aswell as a short film from the 1960's that helped Málaga Virgen reach a levelin the market previously unknown for any other Málaga Wine brand name.


You may have tasted the wines of this winery before, but after visiting it, youwill discover new nuances and you will know more about them. The majorityof the wines are aged by the static system, but the fully mature wines (thosewith more than 5 years ageing) are aged in criaderas and soleras.

We leave López Hermanos, take the motorway 340 to find the road toCártama and head towards Bodegas Gomara, next to the TechnologicalPark of Andalusia (PTA). The exit is signposted (Universidad, PTA). It takesaround 15 minutes to arrive.

The premises of Bodegas Gomara are surrounded by vineyards, borderingthe PTA. This winery is a medium-sized production company that hasmanaged, with ingenuity and a good marketing strategy, to make highquality wines and commercialise them in a variety of ways, but alwaysfulfilling consumers' demands.

The winery is continuously visited by a great number of tourists, for whom ithas developed a small industry based on home crafted packaging:decorated bottles, barrels etc. In short, the appropriate souvenir from theworld of wine. The unrestricted opening up to tourism is one of its strategiesand its premises have been designed bearing this in mind. The winery offerscatering services for public and private events, and it has a tasting room anda shop. Visitors will have a good time watching the entire process from thebeginning to the end. In one of the winery sections, also open to visitors,handmade barrels and wooden cases are made.

The ageing area stores hundreds of red oak barrels that are used to maturewine with the criaderas and soleras system.

We leave behind two different methods but one same idea about quality:that Málaga Wine reach the market with all its potential of colour, aroma andflavour necessary to please consumers' senses.




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OLÍASSituated on the Mountains ofMálaga and surrounded byalmond trees, this village

used to produce wine sometime ago.

MÁLAGAIn the city's historical centreare all the tourist attractionsand monuments, except forthe historical gardens, which

are outside this area.

CÁRTAMAThe urban area is divided into two

areas: Cártama Pueblo and CártamaEstación, which are known as Sierra

de Cártama.

Lagar de Torrijos

Natural Park viewpoints

Bodegas Gomara

Antigua Casa de Guardia

Bodega Quitapenas

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ROUTE ACROSS THE LATE RIPENING AREAROUTE ALONG CRIADERAS AND SOLERAS OF THE CITY OF MÁLAGA



NORTHERN REGION

In the Northern Region, the vineyard covers an extensive area. Vinecultivation is regarded as a pillar of the regional economy, another one beingthe cultivation of olive trees. Both, vineyards and olive orchards are the mainfeatures in the landscape of this Andalusian region, whose main district ismonumental Antequera.

Our wine route takes us to the Cooperativa Virgen de la Oliva, theproduction centre for Larios P.R., and to Vistahermosa, an estate where thevines of Inversiones Santa Ana, a López Hermanos' "sister", are cultivated.In our trip, we will have the opportunity to enjoy delicious DO Málaga Wines,and, in Mollina, we will also taste good reds of the DO Sierras de Málaga.To sum up, a good excuse to immerse ourselves in some villages full ofhistory and natural beauty, charming places and vineyards that will leave anaftertaste of wisdom in our soul.

ROUTE ACROSS THE OTHER ANDALUSIAN COUNTRYSIDE

ITINERARYCooperativa Virgen de la Oliva (Mollina)Centro de Producción Larios P.R. (Mollina)Mollina

From Málaga, we take the motorway towards Granada (A-92). When wepass Antequera, we take the exit for Mollina. It has been written that thisvillage is "a place where a warm welcome is inevitable". And, like otherplaces in the area, for many years Mollina has make every effort to fostertourism, creating an important infrastructure of hotels, restaurants,attractions and leisure activities for the thousands of visitors that, attractedby the rich culture and countryside of Antequera, arrive in the NorthernRegion.

The first stop on our route is the Cooperativa Virgen de la Oliva, which iseasy to find when we take the road to Alameda at the entrance to Mollina.Virgen de la Oliva is the heart that sends the wine blood, and the regionalroads are like arteries that carry it throughout the region. Three hundred andfifty vine-growers produce 7 million kg of grapes that are transformed into 5million litres of wine.

On the trip around the premises, visitors can deduce that large investmentshave been made in technology: bustle and activity turn into calm and silencein the interior of the ageing room, where wines many years old lie, andwhere noble, añejos (mature) and trasañejos (fully mature) wines, whichgive prestige and character to Virgen de la Oliva, rest.

index editorial . T o u r i s t R o u t e s : N o r t h e r n R e g i o n Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil


Near the entrance, you will see the winery's museum, a space thatintegrates objects of great value with the new concept of modern museums.In the winery shop, visitors can buy wines and oils made by the cooperative.

Leaving behind this enormous estate, we head towards central Mollina. InArchidona street are the premises of Larios P.R., with the oldest press in thearea that produces the base wines for its brand, Málaga Larios, which isthen blended and aged in the premises of the city of Málaga. This winerymaintains the most genuine traditions, real gems that coexist with newtechnological innovations.

After our visit, as we are right in the centre of Mollina, we can have sometapas accompanied with a good Málaga Wine. We can sit and relax in anyof the village's restaurants, whose dishes will delight us. There is a widerange of tapa bars and almost all of the bars and taverns are located in thesame area, close to one another.

In our trip around the streets of Mollina, art can be seen everywhere: in theIglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Oliva (Our Lady of the Olives's Church), a17th century building; and Villa Ascensión, an 18th century building, both inthe Constitución Square.

The wine route network across the Northern Region is wide and extensive;this is why we recommend that you should go to the Tourist Office. Theregion has infinite possibilities for tourists who want to know the placeintimately.

In the outskirts of Mollina is the Roman site: the Capuchin Mausoleum (2ndcentury) and the Santillán "Castellum" or Castle. Moreover, 4 kilometres tothe north of Mollina, is the Sierra de La Camorra. At its highest summit (790m), there is a vertex from which five provinces of Andalusia can be seen:Cadiz, Córdoba, Granada, Seville and Málaga. Diverse hiking routespenetrate the Sierra, an ideal place for those who like exploring caves.

You can also spend an afternoon riding a horse in the beautiful naturallandscape. The Tourist Office will give you all the details you need for yourexcursions.

The villages in the Northern Region keep the mystery of a land of bandits,days of wine and ancient settlements, all of which have left their indeliblemark. We suggest that you should spend a night in any of the villages in thearea, all close to one another and easy to find thanks to the plain on whichthe region sits. This way, you can follow another wine route the followingday.


ROUTE ALONG THE PLANTATIONS BY THE LAGOON

ITINERARYInversiones Santa Ana (Fuente de Piedra)Fuente de PiedraAntequera

We leave the city of Málaga taking the motorway to Granada (A-92), andwhen passing Antequera, we take the exit for Mollina.

Fuente de Piedra is a village close to Mollina, no more than 10 minutesaway. There are many reasons for driving to this spot: the main one beingthe premises of Inversiones Santa Ana, a subsidiary of López Hermanosand one of the symbols of Málaga Wine with Designation of Origin.

The premises are really charming, surrounded by vines. The estate isknown as Finca Vista Hermosa, in which men and women are working dayand night, especially during the harvest season, as Vista Hermosa is one ofthe few plantations in which they also harvest at night.

Although the land has allowed for the head-trained cultivation system, themore traditional systems are still used: they pick the grapes by hand and drythem in the sun, among other traditional methods.

In Inversiones Santa Ana, they only produce base wines: the blending andsubsequent ageing take place in López Hermanos, in the city of Málaga.One should not forget the characteristic typical of Málaga Wines: they arecomplex due to the blending that combines different base wines.

Furthermore, Inversiones Santa Ana is one of the few wineries in whicharrope (grape syrup) is produced. Arrope is a concentrated must that isadded to wine in small proportions to give those dark hues, from amber toblack, that make Málaga Wine unique.

After visiting Inversiones Santa Ana, we head towards Laguna Salada deFuente de Piedra Nature Reserve, a short distance away and one the mostcharming places in Málaga. Laguna Salada de Fuente de Piedra is thelargest lagoon in Andalusia. Thirty species of aquatic birds nest there, thebest well- known of them being the flamingo. Summer is the best season towatch them, with July and August being the months in which experts ringnewly born birds.

Fuente de Piedra is named after the famous fountain located in the centreof the village, whose waters are said to have healing properties.

Now we stop at a charming restaurant called Caserío San Benito (on theCórdoba-Málaga road Km.108) that has more to offerthan just good food: theplace has a verywelcoming dining roomdecorated with objectsfrom the 16th and 17thcenturies and also aMuseo de Usos yCostumbres (Museum ofTraditions and Customs).

50 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . T o u r i s t R o u t e s : N o r t h e r n R e g i o n Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil


It serves the typical dishes of the region. You should not miss the famousporra antequerana (see recipe in chapter 7) and other dishes made withMálaga Wine, like the chicken with Mozarab sauce. The restaurant's winelist is enormous, with DO Málaga and Sierras de Málaga wines.

Antonio, the restaurant's owner, collects antiques, which are exhibited at theMuseo de Usos y Costumbres, a museum that has been declared of publicinterest. In spite of being a newly constructed building, it is in line with atypical Renaissance style, and all the decorative and many of thearchitectonic elements bear a historical seal: the entrance door (from the17th century) belonged to the Church of Churriana de la Vega after theReconquest of Granada by the Catholic Kings; the stone floor is the originalfloor of the Palace of the Marchioness of Fuente de Piedra, the grille comesfrom the Convent of Paracenas, and the door of one of the rooms belongedto García Lorca's house. The museum has a bar for tasting wine and otherregional products, and it also shows travelling exhibitions and has a roomfor conferences or meetings.

After a peaceful stay, we head towards Antequera. The visit is extensive, sowe suggest that, if you have little time and are not able to spend the nighthere, you should focus on the rich cultural and artistic heritage of the town.

We suggest three possible trips:1) On walking along the historic centre you will see Colegiata de SantaMaría, the Iglesia de San Sebastián (Saint Sebastian's Church), the Iglesiasde San Juan and San Pedro (Saint John and Saint Peter's Churches), theIglesias del Carmen, Los Remedios (the Remedies), Santiago (James),Madre de Dios (Mother of God), San José (Saint Joseph), Belén(Bethlehem), San Juan de Dios (Saint John of God), San Agustín (SaintAugustine), and the Iglesia Real del Monasterio de San Francisco (theRoyal Church of the Monastery of Saint Francis), which is a national

monument. You can also see the Consistorial Palace and the Torre delHomenaje (Homage Tower), the Taurine Museum and the Bullring.

The richness of the fertile Antequera meadows is transformed into flavoursat the numerous restaurants in the town. We recommend those servingregional food, which also offer good Málaga and Sierras de Málaga Wines.

If you stay several days and have the opportunity to breakfast here, have atypical breakfast consisting of mollete (a characteristic type of bread) witholive oil.

2) Another possibility is to visit noble homes in the town: the City Museum,which was the Palace of Nájera in the past. We also should not miss theMarquise of la Peña's House; the Marchioness of las Escalonias's;Colarte's, now a museum belonging to the Government of the Province; theBaron of Sabasona's House, the Marquise of Villadarías's and theSerrailler's.

3) Then, you can visit El Torcal, a beautiful nature spot with interestinggeological aspects on the landscape and a varied flora and fauna, or theDolmens of Antequera, Menga, Viera and El Romeral.

Before leaving the Northern Region, make a stop in Alameda, only 15minutes away, to enjoy the Inn of José Maria, el Tempranillo, by the old roadthat linked Granada with Seville. The inn was built in the 18th century, andit shows step by step the life of this famous bandit who shares his name withthat of a grape (tempranillo) and who, the story goes, levied a "special tax"on wines that came from other regions and so "dared" to enter the provinceof Málaga, the land of Málaga Wine. With this visit, the journey along theNorthern Region will be over.




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THE NORTHERN REGION

MOLLINAThe Roman sites are very

attractive both forarchaeologists and the

general public.

FUENTE DE PIEDRAThe famous lagoon, Fuentede Piedra, brings ecological

value to this village.

ANTEQUERAThe town is full of artistic

treasures and monuments. All itscultural heritage can be seen in

the old quarter.

Centro de Producción Larios P.R.

Cooperativa Virgende la Oliva

InversionesSanta Ana

ROUTE ALONG THE PLANTATIONS BY THE LAGOON ROUTE ACROSS THE OTHER ANDALUSIAN COUNTRYSIDE

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SERRANÍA DE RONDA

The wine routes of Ronda are very attractive both for the wine expert andhe who lacks such knowledge. The former will enjoy wines and visit wineriesthat he had never tried or seen before. The layperson will most probablyknow more about the world of wine after making this trip. If not, at least theywill have enjoyed the historic site, the ruins of Acinipo, or they will feel thefreshness of the Convent (now a winery) of Los Descalzos Viejos (OldDiscalced Friars), amongst many other beauties and curiosities. Thedifferent tours and the food of this region will make your stay a memorableexperience.

All the wines from the Serranía de Ronda are DO Sierras de Málaga red,rosé and white. The vineyards have been planted recently and the majorityof the wineries have been producing wine since early this century, save fora few exceptions.

The following are some interesting routes that open up to a completely newpanorama of the other Málaga Wine.

ECOLOGICAL WINE ROUTE

ITINERARYF. SchatzAcinipoEl ChantreRonda

Ronda is one of those places with a life and a style of its own, with a charmso special that makes it one of the most important tourist attractions ofCosta del Sol. Now, it is wine tourism that guides us, but first we will admirethe historic heritage that this beautiful city offers.

In a little more than one hour by car from Málaga, straight on the Cártamaroad (A-357) towards Ardales, and then taking the 367 to Ronda, straight forthe motorwary N-340 towards Marbella and taking the exit for San Pedro deAlcántara, we arrive in Ronda, one of the most elegant towns in Andalusia.Our wine routes open up across the hills, where the DO Sierras de Málagawas born at the dawn of the 21st century.

Our first destination is the Federico Schatz's winery, located in theSanguijuela estate, which is located 10 km from Ronda. Take the ring roadof Ronda, A-376, towards Jerez - Seville, and 300 metres from Km 114, turnright on to the MA-449 towards Setenil - Ronda La Vieja. After driving 450m, we meet a dirt road (sign posted: Finca Sanguijuela). Following it downand then up, after 950 metres, we will see the gate on the right-hand sidetowards the winery. If you have any doubts, ask for Acinipo, which is veryclose and is a well-known place.

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Federico Schatz was one of the first viticulturists to believe in Ronda as aland of wine. Since the 80's he has been cultivating his vineyards andproducing high quality wines. He is a German who has put down roots inRonda and has devoted entirely to viticulture.

We should phone before visiting Sanguijuela, so when we arrive, Federicowill be there waiting to show us the work that he has been developing formore than 20 years. He still keeps his German accent, but speaks perfectSpanish and is a chatty person.

Schatz does respect the environment. His wines are ecological to the core,that is to say, all of the cultivation is done without using any chemicalfertilisers and afterwards, the wine-making process also follows a naturalprocess. This winery has been the first in Ronda to launch ecological winesinto the market and it has won many prizes for them. Once in the buildingthat houses the winery, Schatz invites visitors to evaluate the organolepticproperties of some of his wines, and he shows them around the premises.He has maintained some of the rooms of the original building but all aroundyou will see the most up-to-date technology and French oak barrels.

Bidding farewell to this excellent viticulturist, we get to visit Acinipo, theancient Roman city, intimately tied to the re-birth of Ronda as a wineproducing area. At the entrance of the site, in the area known as Ronda laVieja, we meet a guard who will let us enter for free. We can park our car atthe parking area.

Acinipo was founded by the Romans, and its name means "Land of Wine".It is one of the oldest and most beautiful settlements of Ronda. During ourvisit to the ruins, we will see the Roman theatre and some houses. Therewas a close link between the old city and wine. More than 50 minted coinswere found there, with a bunch of grapes on one side, and the legend"Acinipo" and two wheat spikes on the other. A collection including some ofthese coins is kept in the Palacio de Mondragón, in the city of Ronda, wherewe will go and see later.

After feeling the spirit of Acinipo and its calm and impressive landscape, wetake the road to Ronda La Vieja towards Ronda, and in a few kilometres wewill see a road on the right that takes us to Bodega El Chantre. The winery'svineyards cover an entire mountainside and, arriving at the top, where thewinery sits, we can enjoy a magnificent sight stretched out before us,crowned by the Sierra de Grazalema. Acinipo lies behind us. The winery'sname may derive from the French word chantre (precentor), meaning hewho stands in the centre of acathedral's choir… andindeed here we are in thecentre of a beautifulsymphony.

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The structure of this winery is not the conventional one. There is a deeptunnel 140 metres long that penetrates the mountain. Its architecturalstructure is a true attraction for tourists, and so are its wines, which can betasted during the visit.

We continue our way towards Ronda on the Ronda la Vieja road. We will getto know one of the oldest and most beautiful towns in Spain, and also itsgastronomy. With a population of almost 34,000, and the hundreds oftourists that come here every day, Ronda is a lively and cheerful city. Asparking is not easy, we have to leave the car in any of the parking areas.Coming out we can see the Iglesia de La Merced (Mercy's Church). In thesmall square there is a convent at whose entrance we can buy the typicalcakes from Ronda made by the nuns. The rich gastronomic culture of Rondais at every corner, where we will be able to sample and enjoy it.

We take the Virgen de la Paz street, which opens on to the Bullring, built in1785 and the outstanding spot in Ronda. If you visit Ronda in September, itis worth knowing that they celebrate a Goyesque bullfight, picturesque andvery popular.

The city has a rich tradition of arts and crafts in leather, ceramic and bronzethat can be bought at many of the shops that we will pass along the way.

Ronda has a Parador Nacional, a state-run luxury hotel that sticks outvertiginously from El Tajo, a tremendous precipice that is one of its mainattractions. If we are planning to spend a few days in Ronda, the Parador isa nice place to stay.

We continue our route around this beautiful city and arrive at the popularPuente Nuevo (New Bridge), built in the 18th century to cross El Tajo, acanyon formed by the Guadalevin river. Take a look: it is amazing, and

watch your sunglasses, they might fall down. Armiñán street starts at theother end of the bridge. Following it, we enter the old quarter. Taking aglimpse ahead is like travelling to a noble past, replete with heraldicarcades, forged wrought-iron gates at the courtyards' fronts, cofferedceilings, doors, Mudejar plasterwork and sober Renaissance palaces.

Ronda is a melting pot of cultures thathave left behind the rich art andculture we can now admire.

Taking Tenorio street, we soon wearrive at the Palacio de Mondragón, abuilding owned by the City Councilwhich houses some public offices aswell as an interactive museum. Thereare two distinct areas in this palace in different styles, Mudejar andRenaissance. In one of the rooms, you can see the coins found at Acinipo,a testimony to the rich culture of vine-growing that the area had in theremote past.

We leave the palace and take Manuel Montero street, which leads usdirectly to the Town Hall Plaza. Art lovers can admire the Iglesia de SantaMaría la Mayor (Grand Saint Mary's Church), with its Mozarabicarchitecture.

Here we finish our first route, but we will continue visiting Ronda again in thefollowing suggested routes, as there is still much in this city to see and feel.


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THE MARRIAGE ROUTE: ART-WINE AND WINE-TOURISM

ITINERARYCortijo Los AguilaresEl BacoEl JuncalTheodor ConradDescalzos ViejosBenaojánRonda

The history of wine starts at the beginning of human civilisation, and it hasaccompanied men in many of their activities: art and tourism, for example.

On this route we are going to visit an old Trinitarian convent, now revived asa bodega: Descalzos Viejos (Old Discalced Friars). But we start by gettingto know the latest expression of modern man customs: tourism. Here, onceagain, with a particular approach: wine tourism reflected in the Hotel-Bodega El Juncal****.

We will also visit other vineyards and wineries raised by foreigners whohave trusted in the land of Ronda: Cortijo los Aguilares and TheodorConrad. Our route is finished off with a visit to El Baco, whose owner, JuanManuel Betas, was one of the main driving forces of wines from Rondacurrent trend.

We leave Málaga on road A-357, and then we take the road heading toArdales (A-367), which takes us to Ronda. Five kilometres before arriving inthe city, before crossing the bridge, we take the turn on the left signposted"Campo de Maniobras Las Navetas". We continue on this road, passing atunnel and then a bridge.

Just crossing the bridge, we take the dirt road to the left and drive straighton to Cortijo los Aguilares. When compared to the other plantations in thearea, we find that this is a very large one. An amazing landscape surroundsthe estate, and both are in perfect harmony, as well as the vineyard, thebuildings, some of which are old, while others are new. Its owner, JoséAntonio Itarte, who hails from Donosita, has changed the Cantabrian mistsfor the Mediterranean warm and sun. The place boasts harmony and arefined taste. Itarte has rescued the old farmhouse (cortijo), and raised anew building that houses the cellar for ageing wines, the place forproduction and his own house. If there is something outstanding in thiswinery, that is Itarte's choice for decanting wine without the necessity of amechanical pump: the must runs by gravity to the barrels where it isfermented, and from there it passes, also by gravity, to the oak barrels to gothrough the ageing process.

After our visit, we bid farewell andcontinue our path towards Ronda. Wereturn to the road and, on reaching a BPpetrol station, we take the right hand dirttrack, known to be one of the few thattakes us to El Baco. This small estate issurrounded by the Grazalema hills andthe Sierra de las Nieves Natural Parkand it is near Cortes de la Frontera and Serranía de Ronda NaturalReserves. The plantation lies in the middle of the route across the whitevillages, in a marvellous environment.

Far from urban centres, the place has the peace and tranquillity wine needs.Its owner, Juan Manuel Vetas, is a viticulturist expert, educated in Bordeaux,and well known in the area for his commitment to make the wines fromRonda enjoy the prestige they have gained.


We leave El Baco behind and continue on the road towards Ronda.

Before entering the city, at the first traffic lights, there is a roundabout fromwhich several roads depart. We take the one ahead towards El Burgo.Passing the hospital, there is turn that takes us to El Juncal, a hotel-winerythat has made the marriage of wine and tourism a reality. The building alsohouses a tasting room and a laboratory. It is located in a dream spot for wineand tourism lovers, who will certainly want to relax a few days in this hotelwhich offers various leisure activities.

El Juncal is a small hotel that has 12 suites with the comfort and top qualityservice a hotel of this category must offer; besides, its guests are warmlywelcomed. One of the suites is located outside the main building, and it has,thus, an independent access. The hotel's exterior is typical of Andalusianfarmhouses, but its interior is completely different, decorated in a modernstyle along minimalist lines. Outside, there is a garden covering 9,000 m2,surrounded by vines.

You can access the winery from the hotel's check-in desk area. Although thewinery is not big, it has introduced the most up-to-date technology formaking wine. Its first wines were launched in April 2002. During September,visitors that stay in El Juncal can see the reception and stemming of thegrapes after the harvest. We recommend that you make a stop and spendthe night in this unique place.

We leave El Juncal to continue on the road to El Burgo towards another ofthe wineries on the mountains: Theodor Conrad. It is a little further on andits eye-catching strawberry colour is quite striking, which makes it a stoppingplace for many visitors. Its owner was born in Switzerland, but he has livedin Málaga since long ago. He is always telling interesting anecdotes of howhe came to know Málaga Wine (the sweet one) when he was a child inSwitzerland. There, as in many European countries, they used to toast withthis wine in Christmas, before the cava and champagne's boom. He endedup coming here, and rediscovered the warmth that the wines from Málagahad brought to his cold homeland many years before.

We leave this extraordinary winery and return towards Ronda. We arrive atthe roundabout where previously we had taken the road to El Burgo, but thistime, we take the road to Seville, to reach our next destination: BodegaDescalzos Viejos. In roughly half a kilometre, we should be aware of a dirtroad going uphill that runs parallel to our road, to the left. In just a hundredmetres we arrive at the entrance gate to Descalzos Viejos. We can park thecar there.



The panoramic view from the top of El Tajo (inRonda) is spectacular, and the views from thebottom of El Tajo, where this winery sits, areequally breathtaking. The revolution in winemaking in Ronda has, in a short time,sprouted numerous wineries that offer, inaddition to high quality wines, carefullydesigned premises for visitors to enjoy.

Los Descalzos follows this line. This oldTrinitarian convent, built at the beginning ofthe 16th century, was completely renovated toestablish the winery. Its owners, architects aswell as viticulturists, managed to respect the

spirit of the old building, returning it to its original aspect whilst introducingthe newest architectonic ideas and materials, like the glass skin placed ametre from the exterior wall both for protection and illumination. Theproduction area, equipped with cutting-edge technology, is located in whatwas originally the church, a building with only one nave in Gothic style.

In the interior of the church, in thepresbytery, they have restored thefrescos from the 17th and 18thcenturies, and some from the 16thcentury, so that they came back to liferelatively well preserved. Nowadays,Descalzos Viejos is a must in winetourism and represents the perfectmarriage between art and wine.

The day has been passing and left innumerable sensations in our souls. Weleave the Trinitarian convent and return to the road to Seville, A-367, to headtowards Benaoján. We take the turning on the left hand side towards thistown and enter a county road. In a few kilometres, we stop at a passingplace, where we can admire the exit of La Cueva del Gato (The Cat's Cave).Our route is related to wine, but we cannot miss visiting this cave, in caseamongst wine lovers of the world, there are also those who like speleology.The Cueva del Gato, by the Guardiaro river, has 4-kilometre long gallerieswith gorges and waterfalls, and the Gaduares river flows within the cave.

After crossing the bridge, we take a turning on the left towards BenaojánEstación and stop at a heavenly place close to the Molino del Santo hotel-restaurant, where a river rises.



After a nice moment listening to the babbling of water, we go back to the carto travel to Benaoján, on the same road as before up to this town, 17 kmaway from Ronda.

There are two main reasons to visit this village: Benaoján basically lives onits rich cold-meat industry, and in fact, if we look at the village from above,it has the shape of a string of chorizos (sausages). There are shops whereyou can buy tasty cold meats and homemade products of the highestquality. The other reason is that here you find the Cueva de la Pileta, a cavedeclared a Cave Painting National Monument in 1924. the cave will behighly appreciated by those who are interested in archaeology or by anyonewho likes to see traces of ancient civilisations. Within the cave, there arepaintings from diverse periods that are unique in Andalusia. For one reason,or the other, or for both, the place is worth a visit.

We leave this pretty Andalusian village and go back to Ronda, where thereare still many wonderful places we should see.

In the cake shops we can buy yemas del Tajo, a typical cake from Rondathat we can try when we get back home.

From the plaza runs Espinel (or La Bola) street, leading to the Puente Nuevo(New Bridge). On this trip, as soon as we cross the bridge, we take theturning to the left towards the Cuesta de Santo Domingo to see the oldquarter. We can see the mansion known as Rey Moro (Moorish King), thePalacio de Salvatierra (Salvatierra Palace), the Arch of Philip V, and at theend the Wall Ruins that defended Ronda so many times throughout itshistory, and the Iglesia del Espíritu Santo (Church of the Holy Spirit). Fromthere, the old Arab Baths can be seen, all surrounded by the Sierra de lasNieves Natural Park.

Now we cross the bridge that was constructed after the Reconquest, in the16th century, to link the Islamic medina, which we have just left, with theChristian neighbourhood; it is the area of the flea market that is now knownas Padre Jesús.

There are some small bars in which we can have a Málaga Wine and chata while. We make a stop at the Fuente de Ocho Caños (Fountain with EightPipes) in the Iglesia del Padre Jesús square, which is the oldest and theonly monumental church that has been preserved.

Taking the stairs on Escolleras street we reach the Jardines de Cuenca(Gardens of Cuenca), where protected species live, like Spanish fir. Thereis a beautiful viewing point from which you can see the other part of the cityand the final section of the passage where a group of tourists have arrivedafter descended hundreds of steps.

It is late now, and we go back to the bullring. If we have time, we take JoséAparicio street, where we can taste another Málaga Wine in any of its barsor dine at a good restaurant, where they serve good DO Málaga and DOSierras de Málaga wines.




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SERRANÍA DE RONDA

RONDAThe Serranía de Ronda has

an extraordinary naturalheritage thanks to the

diversity in its ecosystemsand the impressive

geological formations.

BENAOJÁN The church of Nuestra

Señora del Rosario (OurLady of Rosary), built in

the 17th century andremodelled in the 18th and

20th century, is awonderful building.

ARRIATEThe small villages in theprovince of Málaga, as is

the case for Arriate, owe toits churches much of its

artistic heritage.

Ruinas deAcinipo

BodegaEl Chantre

Cortijo Los Aguilares

Bodega Theodor Conrad

Hotel-BodegaEl Juncal

Bodega Descalzos Viejos

La Cueva del Gato(El Gato cave)

Bodega deFederico Schatz

ECOLOGICAL WINE ROUTE THE MARRIAGE ROUTE: ART-WINE AND WINE-TOURISM1

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WESTERN COAST

The most attractive part of the route is to appeal to your imagination and re-live times when men worked beneath a mild sun that fed their vines andbronzed grape bunches, the sea breezes bringing relief to vines and vine-growers alike. We are going to travel around a viniculture region that waslarge and rich in the past in relation to wines. However, since the 19thcentury it has suffered economic setbacks and transformations in farmingthat left wine production in second place.

On our trip, we will see how tourism boom in the area has displaced thevineyards to small strongholds, the majority of which, with an extraordinarybeauty, encircle Manilva.

The Western Coast is proud of its past and does not reject its vineyardvocation, inherited from the Romans. We will go to the Wine Museum inOjén and will taste some good traditional Málaga Wines. We will also seeart and culture, and we will pass through beautiful vineyards that slowlyadvance on the hillside until almost touching the sea.

ROUTE ALONG THE GOLDEN REGION

ITINERARYOjén: Málaga Wine MuseumManilva: Route along vineyards and Castillo de la DuquesaCasares: Baños de la Hedionda

We leave Málaga on the N-340 to Marbella but we can also take the tollmotorway A-7. From the Marbella exit (184) the road A-355 takes us to Ojén.

This town houses the Málaga Wine Museum, an important tourist attractionfor the thousands of visitors that come here every year.

It is located in an 18th century building that had previously housed the oldeau-de-vie distillery. Completely restored, it is one of the most extraordinaryarchitectonic gems of Costa del Sol.

Visitors, besides getting to know the old distillery with its old still, can see acollection of old eau-de-vie bottle labels and bottles made in Ojén.

A brief explanation allows us to understand a little better the history of thefamous dry, off-dry, sweet, lágrima, and the rest of the wines made frommuscatel and pedro ximén varieties, and also to try them. The museumshop sells all the existing types of Málaga Wines.

index editorial . T o u r i s t R o u t e s : W e s t e r n C o a s t Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil


Ojén's roots go deep into the Muslim culture, which is apparent in the designof its narrow and steep streets. We can take a walk around the town afterour visit to the Wine Museum because, as Ojén is on the mountains but veryclose to the coast, it has a good number of rivers that cross the district: Real,Almazán, Del Tejar and Ojén, together with the Gálvez stream and theravines of Castillo and El Tajo, which are really charming. As for itsmonuments, a large fountain of five jets in the centre of the town and thechurch, with a beautiful Mudejar coffered ceiling, stand out.

We leave this place and continue towards Manilva, the core of the vineyardsin the Western Coast. We go along our route to Manilva on foot, feeling theearth and enjoying the beauty of some vineyards that rise up from a goldenand whitish soil.

From anywhere in the district of Manilva there are appealing routes to take,but we have chosen one of the prettiest, the one which allows us to enjoythe beauty of this region in Málaga.

Before leaving Manilva we can see the 16th-century Iglesia de Santa Ana(Church of Saint Ann), and if we travel towards the beaches of Sabinillas orthe Duquesa Baja, there is the Castillo de la Duquesa (Castle of theDuchess), by the N-340 road, Km. 149. The Castle stands over the placewhere a Roman villa rose in ancient times, part of whose materials wereused in the construction of the castle. Recent excavations have unearthedremains, hot baths and a necropolis. Surrounding the castle is the district ofthe same name.

The place where the Castillo de la Duquesa rises, also known as the Fortínde Sabinillas (Sabinillas Fortress), has had a long lasting history of coastalsurveillance and defence because from this location, one has a wide viewof the area, very close to the African coast and the Strait of Gibraltar.

We leave the town of Manilva by what is known as "Cuesta del Molino", nowcalled Padre Mariano street (signposted). If we look towards the left, we seethe hills of Sierra de la Utrera and Hacho de Gaucín. The path narrows aswe get further away from the town. It is not long before we come across thefarmhouse of Padre Mariano, an old building of mellow and unsettlingbeauty. Little by little the landscape fills up before our eyes: the end of theAlcabaleta stream, an abandoned house and some beehives, the peaks ofthe Matanza mountains, some old winery, the farmhouse of Linares and theSierra Bermeja. Most probably, we will come across a vineyard worker withwhom to talk for a while.



We continue on our steep path, and on both sides we can see a richvegetation: almond and fig trees, vines, pitas and wild olive trees. Alittle afterwards, the path curves sharply to the right, following thecut of a river terrace that indicates that we have arrived to theplains. The vegetation is quite different here: canes, blackberries,ferns and some old poplars. We cross the old irrigation canal,passing on our left a beautiful entrance flanked by mimosas andbougainvilleas which is the access to an old flour mill, a lovelybuilding that has now been remodelled and turned into a house.

When arriving at the crossing of paths by the river, again there areold poplar trees. From this place the views are lovely: the Sierra dela Utrera and the Canuto, the narrow but striking defile: it is all calmand silence. On the other bank of the river, continuing on the oldpath of Casares, we pass "La Bodega" and "Ingenio Chico". LaBodega or "Recreo" is a large construction that gives character tothe environment. It is located to the right of the path to Casares. Wecan see its home, still and winery, and on its southern façade thereis a high outer limit wall which creates a beautiful terrace withpalms and other huge trees: the view is impressive. Besides, ElIngenio Chico (Small Sugar Refinery), a sugar refinery thatbelonged to the dukes of Arcos, lies on the left of our path, althoughvery little is kept: the remains of some of the walls and the aqueductfor the water that powered the machinery for grinding cane.

Arriving here, we can continue the path towards Casares or divertto the left for the path of Molino towards Hedionda.

In either case, from here we enter the district of Casares. The pathis much narrower. We pass between the pillars of the motorway andgo on driving. Now we can see big flowering oleanders thatseparate us from the river, and on the other side, a little wood ofeucalyptus and carob trees. If we want to get to know themagnificent defile of Canuto de la Utrera and Las Mesas, a littlebefore arriving at the San Adolfo's Chapel, we have to turn off to theleft. On the rocks lying on the Sierra de la Utrera hillsides sleep,silent, the memories of past cultures.

We continue on our path by the chapel and some abandonedholiday houses. Our itinerary is drawing to a close. From here, tothe right it is possible to see the cupola of "Los Baños de laHedionda" (La Hedionda Baths), which was a spa whose origin isuncertain, for history and legend alike have added to its knowlege.A magnificent place for some relaxation, which keeps some of hisoriginal beauty, rather ruined though.




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WESTERN COAST

MANILVAThe most outstanding

monument in the district isthe Castle of the Duchess or

Fortín de Sabinillas.

OJÉN Visiting the old quarter is amust, for its architecture isquite peculiar, its Moorishstreets are charming and

its viewpoints affordmagnificent views.

CASARES It is one of the most

beautiful villages in Spain.

Baños de la Hedionda(La Hedionda Baths)

Castillo de la Duquesa(Castle of the Duchess)

Málaga WineMuseum

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We are about to consider some aspects related to the Málaga Wineculture from the religious to the profane: its relation to the popular culture,gastronomy, health and wisdom, carefully kept in the museumshonouring Málaga Wine.

RELIGIOUS CULTURE:HOLY WEEK AND HERMANDAD SACRAMENTALDE VIÑEROS (WINE-MAKERS SACRAMENTALBROTHERHOOD)

The Hermandad Sacramental de Viñeros (Wine-makers SacramentalBrotherhood) is among the oldest of its kind in the province of Málaga.Founded in the 17th century, it has been one of the most importanttokens of popular culture concerning the world of wine.

Wine-makers, apart from being a business trade established by Isabella,the Catholic Queen, in 1502, are part of a brotherhood devoted to Jesus

of Nazareth. Their saint patron is Saint Lawrence and they also seek theHoly Grail -the chalice used by Jesus to drink his wine during the Last

Supper- for protection.

The Virgin's Thrones and the Christ of Wine-Makers take the streets of thevillages in the province during Holy Week, particularly on Maundy Thursdays.

Both icons can be seen in the Iglesia de las Dominicas (Church of the DominicanSisters), in Andrés Pérez street, at the heart of the provincial capital.

The Málaga Holy Week has been declared of Tourist National Interest and is among themost wonderful to see in the whole country.

6. mÁLAGA WINE CULTURERELIGIOUS CULTURE: HOLY WEEK AND HERMANDAD SACRAMENTALDE VIÑEROS (WINE-MAKERS BROTHERHOOD)

WINE AND HEALTH

MÁLAGA WINE MUSEUM

POPULAR FIESTAS

GLOSSARY

index editorial . M á l a g a W i n e C u l t u r e Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil

66 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . M á l a g a W i n e C u l t u r e Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil

From Holy Monday to Easter, Holy Week procession floats representingscenes of Jesus Christ's Passion and Death are taken into the streets on"thrones" carried by the so-called "Throne Men" on their shoulders.

The floats are beautiful, expressive figures wearing clothes richlyembroidered with golden threads, sitting on mahogany and embossed silverthrones illuminated by hundreds of candles. The artisans who create thefigures are known as imagineros in Spain, a country that has provided theworld with many great imaginero masters, Salzillo being one of them.There are many brotherhoods in Málaga. Their "brothers" participate inreligious processions that symbolise faith, devotion and popular feelings.People from Málaga are joined by visitors in these processions so that thestreets swarm with people in Holy Week.

This cultural and religious expression to which the Málaga Wine is linked,brings us close to it along an almost sacred path.

WINE AND HEALTH

Vine cultivation has walkedalong the history ofcivilisations, and so wine hasbeen part of men's life sincemany centuries before theChristian Era. As wine andmen have lived together for solong, many important men inhistory have commented onthe generosity of wine. We willinclude some quotations here:

Alexander Fleming, during a visit to Andalusia, at the moment when he waspromoting his most renown scientific achievement, said: "These wines havesaved more lives than penicillin."

Luis Pasteur, the founder of modern bacteriology, commented: "Wine is thebest and healthiest drink in the world."

Hippocrates, recognised as "the father of medicine", claimed that "wine isperfectly useful to men, both in health and in sickness, when it isadministered at the appropriate times and in the right quantities accordingto the individuals' bodily dimensions."

Plato, the Greek philosopher, stated: "Wine may renew our youth, andthrough forgetfulness of care, the temper of our souls may lose its hardnessand become softer and more ductile, as iron does over the flame."Many beneficial effects on health have been attributed to traditional winesfrom Málaga. Many believed that wine stimulates appetite and help sickpeople to get better.

From the 19th century to mid 20th century, once it was shown that wine wasgood for people's health if drunk moderately, laboratories and wineries inMálaga promoted it among patients, stating that laboratories and prestigiousdoctors recommended wine to recover from illness. It was during this periodwhen wineries started to stick labels on Málaga Wine bottles for theconsumer to know what the benefits of drinking wine were.


MÁLAGA WINE MUSEUM

The Palacio de Biedmas (Biedmas Palace), a Neoclassical buildingfrom the 18th century located in the square of the same name, ishome to the Málaga Wine Museum. The museum has 800 m2distributed in four floors, and it was founded with the aim to shareall the accumulated knowledge on wine, a historical and culturalheritage that has been linked to the city of Málaga since itsfoundation.

The museum's façade is the Palacio de Biedmas's original one, butthe building's external sidewalls were built later. In spite of this, thewhole construction is homogeneous and harmonious. The exteriorstructure is the spitting image of wine's history, whose tradition hasbeen kept as time passed by, leaving its lees and offering itstradition and old age to contemporary wines.

PERMANENT COLLECTION: Labels (1850-1950)The museum's first floor is dedicated to Málaga Wine. It hasexhibition rooms and an interpreting centre. The collection fo 19thcentury labels, donated by Manuel Martínez Molina, and thecollection of bottles are two historic highlights in the museum.

Labels mirror their time and, in many cases, are the only witnessesof the mid-19th-century wine-making business that have come downto our days. Many labels were created by such prestigious artistsfrom Málaga as Mowbray, Jiménez Niebla or Bono, which clearlyshows how wine and art are closely related.

The period between 1850 and 1950 was lithography's golden age.This artistic technique arrived in Málaga only in the second half ofthe 19th century, and it soon became a flourishing activity making aleap and landing on the steps of art.



LABELS: Promoting Málaga as a tourist destination

The fact that the first tourism promotionsappeared on wine labels is quiterevealing. When reviewing the history ofMálaga Wine, we mentioned that Málagawas first known as a name for wine, notas a city. This is the reason why the firstpromotions of Málaga and Andalusia astourist destinations appeared on winelabels.

In fact, there is more than one reason.First, the main product exported byAndalusia was wine. Second, there wereanonym artists who stamped a special

seal on labels, a very Spanish one indeed -our beautiful women, our villages and customs. Wine and its labels,exquisitely artistic, transformed Spain into an exotic tourist destination.People from abroad wanted to see flamenco women and bullfighters inperson, and also to check if the tablaos flamencos (clubs where flamenco isperformed) really were as they were depicted on the labels.

Many artists have left their artistic creation on labels, the most prolific beingFausto Muñoz, Párraga, Berrocal y Gutiérrez.

Málaga Wine as healing wineThe vast collection of labels (1850-1950), a permanent collection exhibitedat the museum, is a summary of all the virtues attributed to Málaga Wine.Even if the collection does not reflect a scientific survey, it is a historical setof documents, and a curious one, indeed.

Among the virtues attributed to Málaga Wine that appear on the labels wecan see: it warms, feeds, brings joy, keeps sickness and sorrow away,accompanies cyclists and hunters, alleviates pain, stimulates appetite,sharpens your vision, heals, softens your skin, promotes kindness, purifiesthick blood, increases men's strength and vigour, heals women afterchildbirth, improves business skills, is an effective remedy to treat heartpalpitation, eliminates bad breath… The labels also read that the bottlecontent has healing effects on sadness, typhus fever, rickets, gastricdisorders, flu, hysteria, appetite loss, fever, indigestion, dizziness, malaria,stomach ache, migraine, anorexia nervosa, war trauma… quite acomprehensive list!

COLLECTION OF WINE BOTTLESThe rich and vast collection of wine bottles, the majority of which date backto the end of the 19th century and the beginning of the 20th century, weredonated by wineries and private collectors. Their historical value lies in thefact that Málaga Wine was one of the few bottled wines at that moment.


INTERACTIVE POSTERSIn this area in the museum, you can look at the interactive postersexplaining the different methods to make Málaga Wine and its relation tohistory, literature, music and arts in general.

SENSORY WORKSHOPIn the interactive sensory workshop you can feel the different aspects ofwine through your senses.

OTHER ACTIVITIESIn the Museum's upper floor there is a training area. The museum's staffpromote courses in wine tasting, wine and food matching, viticulture andenology, targeted at the following sectors: hotel and catering trade, studentsand the general public; in short, these courses are aimed at training anyonewho is interested in going into the sophisticated world of wine.

In sum, the Málaga Wine Museum is a place to show the richness of ourwines, from Málaga to the world.

SHOPIn the museum's shop you can buy Málaga Wine, books and accessoriesrelated to the world of wine.



MÁLAGA WINE AND POPULAR FIESTAS

Wine participates in everyday activities and culture of villages in theprovince of Málaga. There are numerous fiestas throughout the year whichprove that this is so.

MÁLAGA:

August FiestaIn the Málaga Fiesta celebrations, Málaga Wineis one of the main characters, an honour guest,in fact. In these days, Málaga triples itspopulation. The city's streets swarm with peoplewearing polka-dot dresses and dancingsevillanas (popular dance originated in Seville),who, together with flamenco clapping, bring joyto the city. Casetas (marquees where you caneat tapas, have lunch or dinner while watching ashow) are built in the fair premises, which youcan reach by taking route N-340 from Málaga to

Torremolinos.We will transcribe here the words pronounced in the 2000 Fiesta openingspeech by Antonio Garrido Moraga:"Málaga is our wine, the glory of the Mountains, famous the world over,mentioned by Shakespeare, a wine that benefited from tax exemption inRussia (…). Wine, which has the sun enclosed in the grape it is made from,the grape in its perfect and infinite circle, an eternal figure which leaves itsintoxicating flavour forever. Our wine is here to toast honouring the fiestaand bringing joy to everybody's hearts."

MOLLINA (CONORTHERN REGION)

Feria de la Vendimia (Fiesta of the VineHarvest): by mid September, Mollina, avillage which spends most of its time inviticulture all the year round, celebrates amagnificent Fiesta de la Vendimia (Fiesta ofthe Vine Harvest). The harvest isparticularly important to vine-growers, for itis the culmination of the efforts made duringso many months, a moment when they cansee the land bearing the fruit that men pickthrough hard work. This is why the harvestis celebrated with great joy. During theFiesta, visitors can taste wine, watch theprocess of grape crushing and listen topoems which take wine as their poetictheme and are presented at a poem contest.The history of Mollina is a history of wine days that can be learned byreviewing the opening speeches of the fiestas celebrated in recent years.The following are some examples:Antonio Gala, who inaugurated the 1990 event, said: "Yours is a stimulatingwine, generous, with a lovely aroma, sweet and sometimes dry. In otherwords, it resembles a kiss. Its colour ranges between the light colour oftopaz and the darker colour of amber. Your wine serves well people of alltrades, it is useful to drown our sorrows as well as to highlight ourhappiness. I remember it very well, since it was the first wine I drank whenI was young, and it has never ever brought bitter feelings to my soul."Juan Cobos Wilkins, the writer who inaugurated the 2003 event, wrote inhis own handwriting on one of the vats belonging to the Cooperativa Virgende la Oliva wine nursery: "Wine is liquid poetry".



Lagar de Torrijos: Fiesta of the Wine Harvest and the first must.The fiesta is celebrated on a Saturday in late September, depending onwhen the harvest is carried out. It is busy day which starts very early inthe morning. At 6 o'clock in the morning, some bakers start preparingcateto bread (rustic bread) which is baked before the visitors' eyes. It isusually eaten after soaking it in olive oil. At noon, the grape is crushedin the press by foot and then, the press of Lagar de Torrijos comes backto life, as active as it used to be in the old days, to make the must thatvisitors can taste. Verdiales (traditional singing and dancing from Málaga) are performedto the sound of tambourines, guitars, violins, and the big paella forlunch is prepared on burners.The event has not a fixed day every year, this is why you need to phoneLagar de Torrijos or the Consejería de Medio Ambiente (Ministry ofEnvironment): 95 204 11 00.

ATAJATE (RONDA)

The Fiesta of the Must is celebrated on the last Saturday of November.Atajate, a village in the Serranía de Ronda, is the smallest in theprovince of Málaga, with a population of only 187. During the Fiesta, thepopulation increases four-fold due to the visitors who come over fromnearby villages and to tourists visiting Ronda in November. A festival isheld in the village's square; everybody is invited to taste the mustsproduced by the different vines, and wine is sold in the streets.

CÓMPETA (AXARQUÍA)

The Noche del Vino (Wine's Night) is celebrated on 15 August within thecontext of the Axarquía's Folk Festival. The Fiesta lasts all day long: in themorning, grapes are foot-crushed and then, the more than six thousandvisitors are asked to taste bread with grape and cod. Flamenco singersprovide entertainment and a music show is performed in the evening.

EL BORGE (AXARQUÍA)

The Día de la Pasa (Raisins' Day) is celebrated on the third Sunday ofSeptember.

The village has a population of 1,000, but on the village's fiesta day, morethan 5,000 people come over to enjoy the festivity. They are served wineand gazpacho (a chilled soup made with chopped tomatoes, peppers,cucumbers, onions and herbs). There is also a demonstration of how thevine harvest is gathered: how the baskets are carried to the paseros (sun-drying trays) where they are laid for dehydration. Dance and music pervadethe village for the visitors delight.



GLOSSARY

Aroma: Set of volatile substances that contribute to the complex fragranceof wine, must or grape.

Grape syrup (arrope): a dark brown syrup obtained by partial dehydrationof must through direct heating.

Sun-drying (asoleo): ancient tradition preserved in Málaga consisting inlaying grapes in the sun for dehydration and concentration of sugar. Sun-dried grapes are used in Málaga to make several traditional wines.

Barrel (bota): vats in which DO Málaga or traditional wine is stored forageing.

Bouquet: aged wine aroma.

Blending (ensamblaje): mixing of base wines to make DO Málaga wine.

Alcoholic fermentation: transformation of the sugars in the grape mustinto alcohol, carbon dioxide, and smaller quantities of many othersubstances.

Malolactic fermentation: transformation of malic acid into lactic acidthrough the action of certain bacteria.

Lágrima Must (literally, tear must): grape juice obtained naturally frombunches without external pressure. It is used to make lágrima wine.

Maceration: a technique for producing red wines through contact of themust or wine with grape skins in order to extract colouring, flavour andaromas from them.

Pago: plot of land or estate, especially with vines or olive orchards.

Paseros: farming building used to lay grapes for sun-drying.

Overripen grape: grape that has been dehydrated to increase sugarcontent. It can be obtained on the vine, by delaying the moment ofharvesting, or by sun drying.

Soleras: when ageing wine, it is periodically drawn from the lower barrelsor soleras which never move, and refreshed with an equal quantity of winefrom a criadera or barrel above. The name solera is derived from the factthat traditionally the last casks used in this phase are those nearest to theground (suelo in Spanish).

Author wine or exclusive wine: exclusive wine elaborated in a winery at alow total case production.

Base wine: wine that can be used for consumption or to blend and obtain adifferent final wine.



Málaga Wine displays all its potential when combined with food, a notionthat we need to understand in order to know what the concept ofgastronomic culture means and to enjoy better a human commonactivity: eating.

Eating is a primary function shared with animals, but men can learnhow to enhance the senses involved in eating and drinking (tasting,touching, smelling and seeing) in order to delight in them.

For instance, wine tasters, or sommeliers, will know how to determinethe quality of a product and will perceive more features through theirsenses than a lay person. There are some important factors that affecthow we perceive wine and food, such as food and wine matching, theflatware, the glassware and also the people who share the table withus, for eating is a social activity.

In sum, the more we train our senses and care about the details, themore we will enjoy our food and wine, something that is better appreciated

by those with a certain gastronomic culture. Gastronomic culture can beranked down up to the animal status, where eating is not aimed at delighting

oneself on but only at using it as a means of survival, and is usually donealone and without any flatware or elements of the sort. Maybe we will find it

difficult to try to explain this to someone who does not care about cultural forms;we could compare it with the attempt to explain a symphony to someone who is

hearing impaired.

7. mÁLAGA WINE AND GASTRONOMY

HOW TO DRINK MÁLAGA WINE

MATCHING MÁLAGA WINE AND FOOD

MÁLAGA WINE IN THE KITCHEN

SHOPPING GUIDE: WHERE TO BUY AND WHERE TO DRINKMÁLAGA WINE

PICASSO AND MÁLAGA WINE

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Málaga Wine is made with complex, traditional methods that have beenhanded down for centuries. In order to get acquainted with this wine, youhave to know it, come closer to it and let your senses, namely, seeing,tasting, touching and smelling, receive the corresponding stimuli.

We will provide some advice for visitors who have already arrived in thissophisticated world of wine can enjoy what they have learned once the goback home.

HOW TO DRINK MÁLAGA WINE

When drinking a DO Málaga Wine, you should use a catavinos, a sherryglass that is an elongated glass with a long stem. However, when tasting aDO Sierras de Málaga Wine (white, rosé or red), you should use a standardcrystal wineglass. These are the perfect glasses to keep the wines' magicalflavour.

Another aspect you should pay attention to is the serving temperature,which varies according to the wine ageing: the younger the wine, the coolerthe serving temperature.

Dulce Pálido or sweet Pale wine (young), Málaga (6 to 24 months ageing),and Málaga Noble (2 to 3 years ageing) are served at between 50 and 53ºF. Málaga Añejo (3 to 5 years ageing) and Málaga Trasañejo or fully matureMálaga (over 5 years ageing) are best served at 57 up to 64º F.

As for the DO Sierras de Málaga dry wine, young white wine is servedat 43 to 46º F. If they have been aged in wood barrels, they are serveda bit warmer, at 50 to 53º F. Red young wine is best served in the 53 to57º F range, whereas aged red wine requires a serving temperature of59 to 64º F.

When tasting many different wines, it is better to start with the youngerwines and drinking the aged wines after.

A nice alternative drink consists of sweet Málaga Wine served with soda onthe rocks in a standard soft drink glass.



MATCHING MÁLAGA WINE AND FOOD

Matching wine means looking for the perfect liquid - solid pair, that is,for a good combination between what you drink and what you eat. Forquality wine should match nicely with food, as we already mentionedwhen we discussed gastronomic culture.

There are some general rules to be followed: wine and food coloursshould belong to the same chromatic range. This is why we take whitewine with fish and red wine with meat.

We will make a few suggestions on Málaga Wine and how to match itwith food:

DO Málaga pale muscatel (young) matches appetisers, foie gras orcanapés. The contrast between sweet wine and salty food works wellon your palate.

This wine can also be drunk with desserts that are not too sweet,especially light coloured ones, such as fruit crepes, fruit salad, ham andmelon or milk cream mille feuilles.

DO Málaga pedro ximén, aged wine, marries the following desserts:chocolate cake, chocolate crepe, chocolate truffle, blue cheese or goatcheese from the Serranía de Ronda.

DO Málaga añejo and trasañejo (with no residual sugar) are madefrom pedro ximén and muscatel varieties. They are good after-dinnerdrinks with high alcohol content that can be drunk instead of distilledliqueurs; besides, they are healthier.

DO Sierras de Málagayoung white wine is theperfect match for a widevariety of dishes fromMálaga, such asajoblanco (a creamy soupmade with almonds,bread crumb, garlic, oliveoil and vinegar), porraantequerana (similar toajoblanco with theaddition of tomato, hamand boiled eggs),boquerones (anchovies invinegar), cachorreña(soup made with breadcrumb, orange, andgarlic) or Málaga salad(potato, cod, onion,orange, olives and oliveoil).

The following recipes are true Málaga's gastronomic gems, easy toprepare and excellent to accompany Málaga Wine:



AJOBLANCO

Ingredients:-150 g (5 oz) raw almonds-3 garlic cloves-300 g (10 oz) breadcrumb-1 cup olive oil-vinegar, salt-muscatel grapes

Preparation:Soak breadcrumb and blend together withalmonds, oil, vinegar, salt and some water untilcreamy. Add cold water, chill in the refrigerator oradd some ice cubes. Serve with muscatelgrapes.

PORRA ANTEQUERANA

Ingredients:-1 kg (2 lb) skinned red ripe tomato-1 garlic clover-½ large round loaf-olive oil-lemon-salt-hard-boiled egg-cured ham

Preparation:Scoop out tomato seeds. Put them in mixertogether with chopped peppers, garlic, oil lemonand salt. Mix until creamy. Chill and sparklesome ham and egg finely chopped on top

BOQUERONES MALAGUEÑOS

Ingredients:-1 kg (2 lb) anchovies-vinegar-garlic-parsley

Preparation:Clean anchovies, cut off head and spine. Soakanchovies in vinegar for 12 to 24 hours. Drainand put on a tray. Season with finely choppedgarlic, parsley, lemon juice and olive oil.



CACHORREÑAS (one of the oldest dishes of Málaga cuisine)

Ingredients:-1 tomato-1 pepper-½ onion-½ kg (1 lb) cod (desalted)-1 kg (2 lb) potatoes-cumin, pepper, clove, garlic-soaked bread-olive oil-paprika-sour orange (cachorreña)

Preparation:Cook tomato, onion, pepper and cod in a casserole with water, 10'. Addsliced potatoes. Leave until potatoes are tender. Grind cumin, whole pepper,clove and garlic in a mortar. Mix tomato, bread, ground species, olive oil andpaprika in the blender. Pour the blender content in the casserole and cookfor a short while. Serve warm with sour orange (cachorreña) juice.

MÁLAGA SALAD

Ingredients:-1 kg (2 lb) tomato-½ kg (1 lb) cod (desalted)-2 oranges-1 tomato-spring onions-olive oil-broken olives

Preparation:Cook cod for 10'. Add sliced potatoes. Cook until tender. Drain off. Placepotatoes and flaked cod in a salad bowl. Sprinkle chopped tomato, springonions, cut orange and olives. Season with olive oil, slat and lemon juice.



There are many types of málaga wines, which brings you the possibilityof choosing the one you prefer to open or close your meal.

You will find suggest some interesting wine and food pairings below:

Málaga Boquerones (anchovies) with baked peppers can beeaten accompanied with a DO Sierras de Málaga young whitewine made from slim-berry muscatel (70%) and chardonnay(30%) grown in the Northern Region.

DO Málaga pale (young), naturally sweet (no alcohol added)single-varietal Muscatel from Alexandria made in Axarqíagoes well with foie gras served as an appetiser, and also with adessert called leche frita (a kind of flan). The colour and texturecombination is superb.

Cabbage with black pudding and sausage is perfectly pairedwith DO Sierras de Málaga young red single-varietal syrah.

Vin de liqueur made from pedro ximén grapes (85%), vinotierno (partially fermented) muscatel and grape syrup (5%) isdelicious with fruits.

Dry, fully mature single-varietal (pedro ximén) vin de liqueurtastes beautifully when accompanied by truffles.



MÁLAGA WINE IN THE KITCHEN

A glass of wine can make you recall all the happy moments you had whentravelling around Málaga. We dedicate the recipes that follow to thethousands of visitors coming to Málaga every year. All these dishes are easyto prepare and they include Málaga Wine as their main ingredient, and canbe accompanied with the same type of wine used to prepare them.Certainly, a bottle of Málaga Wine is a perfect souvenir to bring back home.

MELON AND RAISINS SOUPIngredients:

-2 kg (4 lb) melon-1 cup milk cream-100 g (3.5 oz) Málaga raisins-salt-sugar-1 glass pedro ximén wine

Preparation:Cut melon in two halves, scoop out the meat. Soak raisins in wine. Chopmelon. Add milk cream. Sprinkle salt and sugar. Mash the mix.

PEARS AU VIN

Ingredients:-6 skinned pears-150 g (5 oz) sugar-½ cup Málaga Wine-½ cup water

For the cream:-¼ cup Málaga Wine-100 g (3.5 oz) icing sugar-6 yolks-2 cups milk-1 cup milk cream-1 tablespoon butter-1 tablespoon vanilla sugar

Preparation:Put sugar, Málaga Wine, water and pears in a casserole over the flame.Cook until pears are tender.

To prepare the cream, mix all the ingredients in a casserole. Cook for 7',stirring continuously. Pour cream on a serving dish and place pears in a fanshape on it.



BORRACHUELOS DE MÁLAGA (BRANDY PASTRY)

Ingredients:-1,250 kg (2.8 lb) flour-90 g (3 oz) sugar-1 teaspoon sesame seeds-1 teaspoon fennel seeds-2 cups brandy-1 ½ cups Málaga Wine-1 cup olive oil

Preparation:Knead flour and the other ingredients until dough is soft (add wine andbrandy if necessary).

Leave at room temperature for a few minutes. Prepare small balls 15 or 20g (0.4 to 0.5 oz) each. Extend with a rolling pin to make strips 12 cm longand 3 mm thick, leaving the ends somewhat thicker.

Put some sweet pumpkin filling on the strips and roll, joining the ends. Deepfry in hot oil.

Sprinkle with sugar or honey dissolved in water.

ROSCOS DE VINO DE MÁLAGA (MÁLAGA'S DOUGHNUTS)

Ingredients:-1 kg (2 lb) lard-300 g (0.7 lb) sugar-1 cup sweet Málaga Wine-500 g (1 lb) praline-sesame seeds-toasted almonds and hazelnuts-2 kg (4 lb) plain flour-200 g (0.5 lb) self raising flour

Preparation:Knead flour and the other ingredients until dough is compact.

Make small balls 15 or 20 g (0.4 to 0.5 oz) each. Prepare rings. Bake inpreheated oven 160ºC (290ºF) until done.

Leave until cold. Sprinkle with icing sugar


SHOPPING GUIDE:WHERE TO BUY AND WHERE TO DRINK MÁLAGA WINE

DO Málaga Wine can be purchased at wine shops, department stores, bars,restaurants and wineries that sprinkle the wine routes in Málaga.

Málaga Wine has always had its bad copies which will be of lower qualityand will fail to please your taste buds. Whenever you order a Málaga Wineat a restaurant, check it is bottled, for all DO Málaga Wines come in bottleswith labels providing precise information. However, taverns along wineroutes may offer wine they store in barrels.

Some people refer to some other drinks as Málaga Wine, but this is just amisleading term to refer to them, for the drink they refer to is a very sweetaromatic muscatel juice which has nothing to do with the true DO MálagaWine.

The places recommended in the wine routes' section offer the Málaga Winethat is worth tasting.

PICASSO AND MÁLAGA WINE

We could not close thischapter on gastronomicculture without mentioningthe Málaga-born geniusPablo Picasso. Heconsidered Málaga Wineas an element that linkedhim closely to hishomeland, despite hisliving far from it. WhenMálaga celebrated theopening of the Picasso Museum in 2003, Málaga Wine was present at thetoast.

Among Picasso's memories, there is a letter (published in Buena Mesamagazine, a publication for gourmets) where we can read about thegastronomic secrets of this painter in love with light, the most universal ofthe artists born in Málaga. The following passage is an excerpt from thisletter, which shows Picasso's deep feelings for Spanish culture and,particularly, for Andalusian perfumes and colours. Quitapenas, a type ofMálaga Wine is also mentioned in it.

You know, we never speak in Spanish at home, but when we came backfrom Spain, some friends of us, smelling of jasmine and citrus fragrance,brought some delights with them: a Quitapenas, ham, chorizo, del Monoanisette, Málaga raisins… We learned some words full of aroma, offlavour…

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Out of the 5,000 ha vineyards in the province ofMálaga, 1,200 produce the grapes that are used tomake the wines classified as DO Málaga and DOSierras de Málaga. All of them are supervised by theControl Board, whose aim is to check quality andpromote the image of Málaga Wines.

The first case of a control board for both Designations was included inthe 1502 Royal Bond sealed by the Catholic Kings, acknowledging theprerogatives of the wine-growers of Málaga, and which constituted thefirst regulations for the Málaga Wine. The current Control Board wascreated in 1933.

Recent Changes in the Control Board's RegulationsThe most recent revolution in the Málaga's vinicultural sector started todevelop in the 1980's when new varieties were cultivated that gave rise

to the birth of the DO Sierras de Málaga in 2001, in which dry wines areincluded: quality red, rosé and white wines. The wines made from grapes

cultivated in Ronda come under the Serranía de Ronda subdesignation.So now, the DO Málaga, with its traditionally liqueur and naturally sweet

wines, is no longer the only DO in the province.

The regulations of the Control Board were modified in 2001, allowing wine to beaged in the area of production, and not only in the district of Málaga, as had been

required previously. This meant more flexibility, so some wine producers have movedtheir establishments to the interior of the province, closer to the vineyards.

8. tHE CONTROL BOARD FORDESIGNATIONS OF ORIGINMÁLAGA AND SIERRAS DEMÁLAGA

index editorial . C o n t r o l B o a r d Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil

DO MÁLAGA AND DO SIERRAS DE MÁLAGA

The Málaga Designation of Origin includes liqueur wines with alcohollevels from 15 to 20% vol. and the naturally sweet wines over 13% vol.,produced from overripe grapes and whose alcohol comes exclusively fromfermentation.

The Designation of Origin Sierras de Málaga includes white, rosé and redwines with alcohol level lower than 15% volume.

ACCEPTED GRAPE VARIETIES

The varieties accepted by the Control Board for Málaga and Sierras deMálaga Designations of Origin are:

Pedro ximén: It is the most widespread variety, and its annual productiontotals nearly 5 million kilos. This variety is also known by other names thathave evolved from the original: pero ximén or pedro jiménez. The areas ofproduction are the Northern Region and the Mountains.

Pedro ximén is a variety of Vitis vinifera. Its trunk is vigorous with uprightthick and branchy shoots. Its leaves are small and the bunches arenumerous. The grape is meaty, small and very sweet, covered by a thin skin.

Muscatel: The cultivation of this variety gives an annual production of1,500,000 kg. There are various types of muscatel. First, the muscatel ofAlexandria, also called muscatel of Málaga, which predominates in theWestern Coast, the Mountains and Axarquía. Remarkable for its aromaticqualities, it can be used either for making wine, to eat as a dessert or formaking raisins.

Second, the Moorish muscatel, that of a slim berry, which grows mainly inthe Northern Region. From this variety strongly perfumed wine is produced.There are also other varieties appropriate for wines under the status of DOMálaga: lairen, doradilla and rome.

For the production of DO Sierras de Málaga wines, in addition to thetraditional grapes used to make DO Málaga wines, the following varietiesare used: chardonnay, macabeo, sauvignon blanc and colombard (light-skinned grapes) and rome, cabernet sauvignon, merlot, syrah, tempranillo,garnacha, cabernet franc, pinot noir and petit verdot (dark-skinned grapes).

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9. wINERIES AND WINE TASTING

WINERIES FROM AXARQUÍA

WINERIES FROM THE MOUNTAINS OF MÁLAGA

WINERIES FROM THE NORTHERN REGION

WINERIES FROM THE SERRANÍA DE RONDA

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WINERIES FROM AXARQUÍA

BODEGA DIMOBE S.L.

GRAPES:Light-skinned varieties: MuscatelPurchased Grape: Yes

The vineyardThe winery has 8,000 vines in its own vienyard, bordering Almáchar, andsome paseros nearby the winery. The firm purchases grapes from manyestates in Axarquía because it has traditionally been a wine producerwinery.

The winery Dimobe is in full blossom, launching new brands into the market and caringabout the facilities' updating. Apart from providing it with cutting-edgetechnology, in line with modern wineries, its owners are focusing on winetourism, and have renewed its external looking for this reason. Inside thewinery, whose walls feature such traditional materials as exposed bricks andwood, visitors will see a huge press 800 kg in weight that had beenabandoned in a vineyard in the Mountains.

Summary backgroundThis winery is located in the urban area of Moclinejo. It was founded in 1927by the current owners' grandfather.

Related informationNext to the producing area there is a Wine Museum, with singular items ondisplay. It also has a shop where visitors can buy bottles of the brandstraded by the winery

WINES:DO Sierras de Málaga Brands: El Lagar de Cabrera, young whiteDO Málaga Brands:Señorío de los Broches, paleZumbral and Valmoclin

Address: Ctra. de Almáchar, s/nMoclinejo (Málaga)Phone: 952 400 594Fax: 952 400 743Owners: Muñoz FamilyProduction volume: 50,000 l



BODEGA ALMIJARA

GRAPES:Light-skinned varieties: MuscatelPurchased Grape: Yes, to local vine growers

The vineyardGrapes are selected by José Avila himself from different vineyards, sincemuscatel vines are not always the same even if they grow in the samevineyard. They vary depending on the height, the sun light or shade, etc.Grape selection adds complexity to the wine

The wineryWines produced in Almijara are author wines. All four brands produced inthis winery have something unique, as explained below. Here, everything inthe production process is made with great care. Cutting-edge cold pressingtechnology is used with a very old press to obtain the must.

Summary backgroundThe rich and complex history of this winery has had its up and downs, in linewith the historical events that marked the 20th century. In the 80's, afterseveral attempts, José Avila decided to focus again on wine production.After a lot of hard work in the winery, and just by chance, Jorge Ordóñez, aMálaga-born gastronomy expert residing in Boston, visited the winery andfound one of its wines excellent. Ordóñez then returned accompanied byTelmo Rodiguez, a winery owner from La Rioja, who quickly realises that inthat remote village of Axarquía he had just discovered a milestone in theworld of wine. José Avila and Telmo agreed upon making good wine,whatever the cost was, and thus established a partnership. Following thisphilosophy, Bodega Almijara discarded several harvests before launching itsfour star brands with the quality it was seeking since its foundation.

Related informationThere is a shop to purchase wine and other products from the Axarquíaregion.

WINES:DO Sierras de Málaga Brands: Jarel, dry young white DO Málaga Brands:Jarel, naturally sweet; Molino Real; and MR (Cía. de Vinos TelmoRodríguez)

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Address: Ctra. de Canillas de Albaida, s/n29754 Cómpeta (Málaga)Phone. 952 553 285Owners: José AvilaProduction volume: 25,000 l bottled wine


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fichas filesBODEGA ALMIJARA

Variety: Muscatel.Ageing: In oak barrels. Characteristics: This is a yema (Spanish word, literally "yolk", for thefirst portion of must obtained through a straining process without the pulpbeing subjected to any mechanical pressure), almost lágrima wine,which means that the grape pressing is very gentle. A novel method hasbeen introduced to make this wine, trying to recreate the wine producedbefore, but caring for its quality with the use of new technologies andletting it age for some time. Tradition lies in the selection of grapes fromvery old vines, between 100 and 150 years old, grafted after thephylloxera infection. Then, the asepsis involved throughout theelaboration process allows the aroma and limpidity to linger in the mouthand ensures the production of a flawless wine. Marriage: Molino Real marriage is very wide, and is still open to furtherpossibilities. This wine is recommended for foie, blue cheese, moderncuisine, magret.

Molino Real DO. Sierras de Málaga

Variety: Muscatel.Ageing: Young.Characteristics: This wine was the first dry muscatel wine produced inMálaga. The 2000 vintage was the first one. This is a young wine thatkeeps the typical aroma of muscatel. Marriage: Fish and seafood.

Jarel seco DO. Sierras de Málaga

The two naturally sweet wines of Bodegas Almijara are Jarel and MR,produced with an ensamble of grapes exposed to the sun. Nonaturally sweet wines are produced (adding alcohol to stopfermentation). These are tasty, citrus wines that offer freshness to thepalate.

Jarel and MR. DO Málaga



WINERIES FROM THE MOUNTAINS OF MÁLAGA

ANTIGUA CASA DE GUARDIA

GRAPES: Variedades: Pedro ximén, muscatel, sauvignon blanc andchardonnay (light-skinned grapes); cabernet-sauvignon and syrah(dark-skinned grapes)Purchased Grape: Yes

The vineyardThe production in Romerillo and Letría, the two vineyards belonging toAntigua Casa de Guardia, totals 10,000 kg. Letría covers 6 ha and is 30years old. Some parts of the terrain are vertical, with slopes over 80%.Romerillo has an area of 7 ha and the slope is not as steep as Letría's.In 2003, one hectare was seeded with other varieties: cabernet sauvignonand syrah (dark-skinned grapes), and sauvignon blanc and chardonnay(light-skinned grapes). A portion of the muscatel and pedro ximén vines arehead trained, thanks to the construction of specific plots. The remainder isheroic or steep slope cultivation, that is, grapes are picked by hand, and aretransported to the premises on beasts of burden.

The wineryAfter stemming and crushing the grapes, the must is put in undergroundcontainers. Then it is transferred to stainless steel deposits for controlledfermentation. Ageing takes place in red oak barrels for a period of 10 to 15years. The reason for this is that wines in this area do not require so muchwood, and the barrels are used mainly as containers where the wine isgradually and slowly oxidised. Ageing is carried out through the static agingsystem, and wine remains for 6 to 24 month in the barrels. For more maturewines, the system of criaderas and soleras is used. In this way, the qualityof the product launched into the market is always the same.

Summary backgroundAntigua Casa de Guardia was founded in 1840, but the premises as theystand today are from 1965, when the current owners' grandfather acquiredRomerillo and Letría, two very old vineyards that had survived the fatefulphylloxera that arrived in the late 19th century. Then he planted new vineswith native varieties: pedro ximén and muscatel.

Related informationThe former labour house now hosts a Wine Museum. The winery has a shopwhere wines produced there can be bought.

WINES:DO Málaga Brands:Málaga moscatel; Pajarete 1908; Pedro Ximén 1908; Dulce Garijo;Moscatel Guinda; Isabel II; Verdiales Seco; Verdiales Cream.DO Sierras de Málaga Brands:No

index editorial . Wineries from the Mountains of Málaga

Address: Ctra. Olías-Comares s/n. Finca ElRomerillo (Bda. De Olías). 29197 MálagaPhone: 952 030 714 y 679 752 718Fax: 952 252 150E-mail: [email protected]: Garijo FamilyProduction volume: 5,000 l bottled wine and40,000 l for distributing in taverns in the city ofMálaga


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fichas filesANTIGUA CASA DE GUARDIA

Varieties: 75% big-berry muscatel or Alexandria muscatel, and 25%pedro ximén.Alcohol: 16º vol.Aging: Noble.Tasting: This is a dark amber-coloured wine, with an intense goldentone, transparent. It has a wide intensity, and it is harmonious andpersistent in the nose, with aroma of fine wood and raisins. It is velvetyin the nose, with a great balance between sweetness and a fine acidity.It feels good in the mouth. Persistent.Marriage: This wine perfectly matches pasta and chocolate desserts.Serving temperature, between 16°C and 18°C.

Moscatel Málaga. DO Málaga

Origin: Olías.Varieties: 100% pedro ximén.Alcohol: 16º vol.Ageing: Fully mature.Tasting: This wine is dark amber and transparent. It has an intensebouquet with the aroma of fine wood and raisins. It has a smoothaftertaste.Marriage: Pedro Ximén 1908 perfectly matches blue cheese and foie.Serving temperature, between 16°C and 18°C.

Pedro Ximén 1908. DO MálagaOrigin: Olías.Varieties: 100% pedro ximén.Alcohol: 16º vol.Aging: Fully mature.Tasting: This is a dark amber-coloured wine, transparent. It has anintense bouquet with aromas of dried figs and prunes. It is velvety andsmooth in the mouth, balanced. The flavour of raisins re-emerges at theretronasal passage. Marriage: The combination of quince jelly and goat cheese withPajarete 1908 is perfect. Serving temperature, between 16°C and 18°C.

Pajarete 1908. DO Málaga



BODEGAS QUITAPENAS

GRAPES: Varieties: Muscatel and pedro ximénPurchased Grape: Yes, all of it

The vineyardThis winery makes wine but it does not own any vineyard.

The wineryBodegas Quitapenas produces Málaga Wines from the followingvarieties: muscatel from Axarquía, and pedro ximén from theNorthern Region. The premises to produce the wine are located inthe Northern Region, and then the wine is aged in Bodega El Palothrough the criaderas and soleras dynamic system. This wineryproduces young, pale wines, traditional Málaga Wines, and qualitymature wines.

Summary backgroundThe current owners' grandfather -an expert wine producer- went bankruptwhen the phylloxera came to the region. He settled in Málaga and openeda restaurant in El Palo. With his good mood and experience, soon he startedproducing wine from grapes grown in the Mountains. In 1880 he founded thewinery, which nowadays is one of the emblematic companies in El Palo.Before having its current name, the winery was called Hijos de José Suárezy Villalba.

Related informationThis winery was awarded the gold medal for the 10-year-old fully matureViejo Abuelo in the 2002 International Wine Fair. It was the first winery toopen its doors to visitors during the 1960's tourist boom, thus occupying aniche in the tours offered by tourist agencies.

The winery has a wide variety of wines and other typical products from theMálaga region for sale: raisins, dried figs and olive oil.

WINES:DO Málaga Brands:Moscatel Dorado, Moscatel Málaga, Málaga Oro Viejo, Málaga Dulce, Viejo Abuelo and Lagrima ChristiDO Sierras de Málaga Brands: Vegasol


Address: Ctra. Guadalmar nº 12, polígonoIndustrial Villarosa. 29004 MálagaPhone: 952 347 595Fax: 952 105 138E-mail: [email protected]: Suárez FamilyProduction volume: 60,000 l



BODEGA LÓPEZ HERMANOS

GRAPES:Varieties: Pedro ximén and muscatel (light-skinned grapes) and syrah (dark-skinned grapes).Purchased Grape: Yes.

The vineyardThe vineyard consists of 500 hectares belonging to Finca Vista Hermosa,located in Fuente de Piedra (the Northern Region).

The wineryLópez Hermanos is a symbol in the Designation of Origin. The wineryreceives the base wines that have been made in Inversiones Santa Ana, asubsidiary company located in Fuente de Piedra (in the Northern Region).Once in the Málaga premises, wines are blended and enter the maturingand ageing processes. This winery was founded in 1885 and has beenpassed through generations, growing steadily but not losing the familiaratmosphere that has been its characteristic feature since it was born.

Summary backgroundThe current owners are Salvador López López's grandsons. Salvador andhis brother Francisco were the founders of this winery, closely linked to theMálaga Wine history.

Investment on the premises and smart marketing strategies have led thecompany to the highest production and trading levels since the 60's.

Related informationVisitors can buy all the wines produced in the winery.

WINES:DO Málaga Brands:Málaga Virgen, Cartojal, Moscatel Iberia, Tres Leones, Sol deMálaga, Trajinero, Chorrera, Pedro Ximén Reserva de Familia,Moscatel Reserva de Familia; and fully mature wines: SecoTrasañejo, Don Salvador Moscatel and Don Juan Pero Ximén

DO Sierras de Málaga Brands:Barón de Rivero


Address: Canadá, 10 -Polígono El Viso 29006 Málaga

Phone: 952 319 454 / Fax: 952 359819E-mail: [email protected]: Rafael and Juan Ignacio de BurgosLópezProduction volume: 3,5 million l per year



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Varieties: Pedro ximén (with different degrees of exposure to the sun).Alcohol: 17% vol.Ageing: Two years in oak barrels. Tasting: It is golden, transparent. It is strong, with a long, elegantsweetness in the end. Expressive in aromas and ageing tones, in whichpedro ximén can be tasted. Marriage: Chocolate desserts.

Málaga Virgen. DO Málaga

Varieties: Muscatel.Alcohol: 14.5% vol.Ageing: Pale.Tasting: This muscatel wine is attractive, yellow coloured, with slightgreenish tones, transparent. It has floral aromas, with a pinch of honeyand citrus. The flavour of raisins as well as a slight smoked hint can betasted. Elegant and sweet, not sickly sweet though, it features balanceand harmony. Marriage: Ideal for accompanying appetisers, or main courses, such asfoie or seafood.

Cartojal. DO Málaga

Varieties: Moorish muscatel (85%) and chardonnay (15%)Alcohol: 12.5% vol.Ageing: Young.Tasting: This is a pale yellowish white wine, translucent, with greenishshades. It has the aroma of flowers and dried fruits, very intense, light,silky, balanced, with a long aftertaste. Marriage: Fish.

Barón de Rivero. DO Sierras de Málaga Cartojal. DO Málaga

BODEGA LÓPEZ HERMANOS



BODEGA LARIOS PERNOD RICARD

GRAPES:Varieties: Pedro ximénPurchased Grape: Yes, all of it

The vineyardThis winery does not own any vineyards. It purchases grapes to vine-growers from the Northern Region; however, it controls the vines until theharvest is over.

The wineryLarios PR, in the city of Málaga, is a maturing, ageing and bottling winery. Itreceives the grapes and makes the blending in Mollina, in a winery that hasa capacity for storing 3 million kg of grapes, and there the pressing,fermentation and typification processes take place. The cellar in Málaga has2,000 red oak barrels 500 l each, used for the ageing process. The majorityof its production is exported to countries in the European Union.

This company is also known for its brandies and spirits. Ageing of wines andspirits is made through two processes: the static and the dynamic systems.The former is used to mature wines, which remain for 3 or 4 months in newbarrels, and then they are transferred to the old barrels, where theycomplete the maturing process.

Brandies and spirits are matured through the dynamic process, also knownas the criaderas and soleras process. The casks used are previously winedwith Málaga Wines that provide their quality and a remarkable, uniquecharacter.

Summary backgroundThe origin of this winery dates back to 1875. The volume of Málaga Winesmade here is rather reduced as compared to other products produced bythis company, but the owners still want to produce the traditional wines thatwere once the driving force of their business.

Related informationThe Manager of the Production Centre in Málaga is Antonio Santana. Visitsto this winery must be booked in advance.

There is a shop where all the products elaborated by PR Larios can bebought.

WINES:DO Málaga Brands: Málaga LariosDO Sierras de Málaga Brands: No


Address: Polígono Guadalhorce, César Vallejo,24. 29004 MálagaPhone: 952 247 056Fax: 952 240 382E-mail: [email protected]: Larios Pernod Ricard S.A.Production volume: 200,000 l, bottled. 700,000 lDO Málaga for export, which then the differentimporting companies name with their own brands.



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Varieties: Pedro ximén (90%), Málaga muscatel exposed to thesun (10%).Alcohol: 17% vol.Ageing: Noble (2 years in red oak barrels through the ageing-by-year system). Tasting: Golden mahogany in colour. Aromas of ageing, withhints of sun-exposed grapes, liquorice, toffee candy, dried fruit.Tasty, silky, coffee sensations, balanced and with a long andelegant aftertaste. Marriage: Millefeuille and not too sweet desserts. Other features: Málaga Larios is produced by blending two basewines: naturally sweet pedro ximén wine (85%), vino tiernomuscatel (10%) and grape syrup (5%).

Málaga Larios. DO Málaga BODEGA LARIOS PERNOD RICARD



BODEGAS GOMARA

GRAPES:Varieties: Pedro ximén and muscatelPurchased Grape: Yes, but to a lesser extent, since the winery has started cultivating its own vines.

The vineyard: The vineyard covers an area of 60,000 m2, on which production and ageingare integrated.

The wineryThis winery is equipped with state-of-the-art technology for producing DOMálaga Wines. Ageing takes place trough the criaderas and solerasprocess. This winery was the first in launching fully mature wines into themarket.

Summary backgroundBodegas Gomara is a family-run business aimed at producing and ageingwines. In 2003, it started its own vineyard when moving its premises closeto the Andalusia Technological Park.

Gomara has been growing steadily, especially pushed by exports, and hascemented business relations with Japan, Canada, Italy, France, the CzechRepublic and Slovenia.

Related informationIf Bodegas Gomara has an outstanding feature, that is innovation. In 1994it was the first ever to develop the souvenir concept applied to quality wines.This is the reason why this winery has developed a small industry to makebarrels and to decorate bottles with paintings and leatherwork.

The winery is oriented to tourism. Visitors can buy all types of wines there. It also has a tasting room and some meeting rooms as well.Manager: José Manuel García López

WINES: DO Málaga Brands:Málaga Dulce, Moscatel Málaga, Pedro Ximén, LacrimaeChristie, Málaga Cream, Pajarete, Fino Seco, Seco Añejo, GranGomara, Málaga Trasañejo.DO Sierras de Málaga Brands:No


Address: Diseminado Maqueda Altonº 59. Apd. 121 29590 Campanillas, Málaga Phone: 952 434 195Fax: 952 626 312E-mail: [email protected]: García Family Production volume: 300,000 l



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Varieties: 90% pedro ximén and 10% muscatel.Alcohol: 15º vol.Ageing: 12 months in red oak barrels.Tasting: Dark-amber coloured, this wine has aromas of cocoa and roastcoffee, it is sweet, transparent, with vanilla notes. It combines theintensity of pedro ximén and the fragrance of muscatel, which providethis wine a delicious and light taste. This wine stimulates appetite, it isinvigorating and relaxing. Marriage: Chocolate desserts.

Sweet Málaga. DO Málaga

Varieties: 100% pedro ximén.Alcohol: 15º vol.Ageing: Three years in red oak barrels.Tasting: Mahoney coloured, this wine of toasted aromas of vanilla anddried fruit is balanced, complex and persistent. At that ageing stage, theowners of the winery have succeeded in balancing the characteristic ofa young pedro ximén with the first steps of ageing. Outstanding featuresare its smoothness and aroma, still fresh, with notes of solera and thevanilla flavour, typical of oak. Marriage: Chocolate desserts.

Pedro Ximén

Varieties: 100% Alexandria muscatel.Alcohol: 15º vol.Ageing: This wine is matured for 12 months in red oak barrels. Tasting: Golden amber-coloured, this wine has a strong aroma of maturemuscatel; it is sweet, fresh and tasty. When tasting it, pay attention to thearoma of pure muscatel, then enjoy the taste left by its smooth taste. Marriage: Cream millefeuille, profiteroles and candies.

Moscatel Málaga

BODEGAS GOMARA



BODEGAS LOPEZ MADRID

GRAPES:Varieties: Muscatel and pedro ximénUva comprada: Yes

The vineyardPart of the grapes come from the vineyard in Zalea.

The wineryLópez Madrid is a winery that produces and matures Málaga sweet and drywines. Ageing is carried out through the criaderas and soleras system,because of the reliability and homogeneity secured by this method throughthe years. Besides, this is one of the few wineries equipped with thetechnology required to produce grape syrup, a product that López Madridsupplies to other wineries in the province.

Summary backgroundLópez Madrid founded this winery in 1946, in the Málaga quarter calledCerrado de Calderón, and at the very beginning he traded his wines by thelitre. The winery moved to its current location in 1975, when a bottlingassembling line was installed. Its products are commercialised in thedomestic market.

Related informationThe CEO of this winery is Pedro López. Visits must be booked in advance.

WINES:DO Málaga Brands:Maestro, Málaga del Abuelo, Pedro Ximén, Soliviña, Son de Mar,Viña Pescaíto, Zar.DO Sierras de Málaga Brands:No


Address: Ctra. de Campanillas, km. 7,529196 El Tarajal (Málaga)Phone: 952 433 189Fax: 952 437 647E-mail: [email protected]: Family-run companyProduction volume: 40,000 l



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Varieties: 100% Alexandria muscatel.Alcohol: 15º vol.Ageing: Pale.Awards: Silver medal in the 2002 International Wine Fair.Tasting: Pale yellow-coloured, translucent, with green shades, this winehas an intense aroma of fruits (apple and banana) and flowers,characteristic of this variety. It tastes balanced, fresh and light.Persistent.Marriage: Ideal with appetisers, accompanying a foie or seafood.

Maestro

Varieties: 70% pedro ximén and 30% muscatel.Alcohol: 15º vol.Ageing: Matured in 30-year-old soleras.Tasting: Mahogany coloured with golden shades. Intense aroma,caramel, toasted. Strong, tasty, ample, balanced and persistent. Marriage: Desserts and candies.

Málaga del Abuelo

Varieties: 100% muscatel.Alcohol: 15º vol.Tasting: Yellow coloured with golden tones. Lively intense fruity aroma,characteristic of this variety. Balanced, it resembles raisins. Marriage: Desserts and candies.

Soliviña

BODEGAS LOPEZ MADRID



WINERIES FROM THE NORTHERN REGION

BODEGAS LÓPEZ GARCIA

The wineryLópez García winery buys DO Málaga pedro ximén and muscatel wines.These wines are aged in red oak barrels and then different types of sweet,off-dry, cream and dry wines are produced and commercialised.

Summary backgroundBodegas López García, founded in 1954, is a traditional winery whoseowners and their forefathers have been always linked to the world ofMálaga Wine.

Related informationWines made in this winery are top quality ones because their productionvolume is not too big.

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Address: C/ Sevilla nº 27, 1º C29009 Málaga Phone: 952 306 593Fax: 952 306 593E-mail: [email protected]



INVERSIONES SANTA ANA

GRAPES:Purchased Grape: Yes, to local vine-growersLight-skinned varieties: Muscatel and pedro ximénDark-skinned grape varieties: No

The vineyardVista Hermosa has 500 ha of land where extensive vine growing hasbecome a handmade work throughout the whole process: winter pruning,green pruning, harvesting and exposition to the sun.

Vine harvesting is still hand-made, in spite of the fact that since the vineyardhas been adapted for head trained cultivation, harvesting could have beenmechanised. Harvesting has been effectively improved, preventing a lot ofgrape from rotting on the floor. Afterwards, a meticulous selection is madefor wine-producing purposes, and then, the selected grape is transportedeither to the paseros or to the press.

The wineryInversiones Santa Ana produces base wines (naturally sweet, tierno andmaestro), which are finally mixed and aged in the López Hermanos maturingcellar in the city of Málaga. After its renovation, the winery introduced high-end technology to produce wines in all its sections: stainless steel deposits,cooling equipment to control the temperature throughout the fermentationprocess, new technologies to clean the must before entering thefermentation process, and new crushing systems (press and pumps). Theobjective of all these novelties is to make top quality wines.

This is one of the few wineries with an area for making grape syrup.

Summary backgroundLópez Hermanos runs this winery since the company bought it in 1989,when it first focused on growing vines on their own vineyard.

Related informationThis winery does not trade wine brand names of its own, for its wines arethose aged and blended by López Hermanos.


Address: Finca Vista HermosaFuente de Piedra (Málaga)Phone: 952 111 681Fax: 952 111 447Propietario: Filial de López HermanosProduction volume: 3.5 million l



SOCIEDAD COOPERATIVA AGRÍCOLA "VIRGEN DE LA OLIVA"

LA

GRAPES:Purchased Grape: Yes, to its cooperative members Light-skinned varieties: Muscatel, pedro ximén, doradillaDark-skinned grape varieties: Syrah

The vineyardThe grape comes from the vineyards belonging to 350 vine-growers,members of the cooperative who supply approximately 7 million kg grapes(more or less, depending on each year's harvest).

The wineryVirgen de la Oliva produces wine since it was founded, and in 2003 theageing cellar moved from the city of Málaga to Mollina. Grape selection isrigorous and is carried out upon reception, when the sugar content isassessed, and the pH and acidity are controlled. After the assays, the grapeis sent to the hopper for bottled quality wine or to other two for theproduction of wine to sell by the litre or of sulphur-added must, for whichonly pedro ximén grape is used.

Summary backgroundVirgen de la Oliva was founded in 1977 as a cooperative for vine-growersfrom the district of Mollina. Nowadays, wine making is just one of the sixactivities carried out by the cooperative. The remaining five include: makingof olive oil, dressings (olives as pickles), granting loans, supplying farmingimplements, and providing other services.

The cooperative policy is to gradually increase production of bottled qualitywine of the DOs Málaga and Sierras de Málaga, which nowadays accountfor 20% of the business.

Related informationThe focus on tourism in the Northern Region of the province of Málagaopened a new business opportunity for the cooperative some years ago,when it opened a shop and a Wine-Winery Museum for the tourists visitingthe cooperative.

The marketer Tierras de Mollina, created by Virgen de la Oliva cooperative,launched the first young wines of the new DO Sierras de Málaga: Gadea(red) and Montespejo (white) in 2003. These well structured wines havebeen considered as excellent in specialised publications. Besides, fullymature Carpe Diem trasañejo was awarded the gold medal in the "DO stillwines" category, in Vinitalia, an International Wine Fair held in Verona.

WINES:Montespejo, young white, DO Sierras de MálagaCarpe Diem, naturally sweet, DO MálagaCarpe Diem, fully mature, DO MálagaCarpe Diem, mature Málaga, DO MálagaGadea, young red, DO Sierras de MálagaMontelobo, noble dry white wine, DO Málaga


Address: Avda. de las Américas, s/n29532 Mollina (Málaga)Phone: 952 740 100Fax: 952 741 090E-mail: [email protected]: CooperativaCEO: Francisco CampañaProduction volume: 5 million l


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Varieties: Produced with yema must from carefully grown native vinesdoradilla and muscatel. Alcohol: 11% vol.Produced by: Virgen de la Oliva Cooperative.Ageing: Young.Marketed by: Tierras de Mollina.Tasting: Montespejo is a pale, translucent yellow young wine. Withmuscatel fragrance, transparent and intense, elegant with exotic notes,tasty and persistent. Marriage: Fish and seafood; ideal for other dishes with fish, vegetables,vegetable stews, soft and fresh cheeses. Serving temperature: chilling.

Montespejo. DO Sierras de Málaga

Varieties: Syrah, single-varietal wine.Alcohol: 13.5% vol.Ageing: Young.Tasting: Intense purple-red. Fine fragrance, transparent, with aroma ofripen red fruit and characteristic smell of violets. Meaty, with greatstructure due to its sweet and ripen tannins, which make this winesurprisingly velvety with a nice aftertaste sensation. Marriage: Appetisers, and dishes with meat and cheese. Serving temperature 16 - 17°C.

Gadea. DO Sierras de MálagaVarieties: Sweet wine made from overripe pedro ximén andmuscatel grapes. Alcohol: 15% vol.Ageing: Over five years in red oak barrels. Tasting: This wine is black coloured with red and golden shadesresulting from its very long maturing period in oak barrels. It has thecharacteristic scent of raisins, developed together with the otherbouquet components of this wine: candied fruit, coffee, cinnamon,chocolate and plum. Dense, tasty and profound, with a long, smoothaftertaste. Marriage: Chocolate desserts.

Carpe Diem Trasañejo. DO Málaga

"VIRGEN DE LA OLIVA"



LARIOS P.R.

GRAPES:Purchased Grape: Yes, all of it.Light-skinned varieties: Pedro ximén and muscatel.

The vineyardThe company does not own any vineyards, but it has a close relation withthe vine-growers who supply the fruit, so the grape is controlled directly inthe vines. The winery's enologist decides the best time for picking the fruit,as well as when exposition to the sun must begin and for how long.

The wineryThis winery purchases pedro ximén grapes from nearby vine-growers, andmuscatel from Axarquía and Manilva. With these grapes, the wineryproduces two base wines: naturally sweet with overripe pedro ximéngrapes, and muscatel tierno, with grapes exposed to the sun.

Then they are blended to produce the traditional Málaga Larios wine, towhich 5% of grape syrup is also added. Once the base wines come togetherinto an ensemble, the wine is taken to the premises the winery owns in thecity of Málaga, where it is matured for two years through the static system.

Summary backgroundThe P.R. Larios production centre in Mollina is the oldest winery in TheNorthern Region. It dates back to 1875.

Related informationTraditionally, Larios has produced in Molina liqueur wines for export.

WINES:Brand: Málaga Larios DO Málaga


Address: C/ Archidona, nº 129532 Mollina (Málaga)

Phone/fax: 952 740 251E-mail: [email protected]: Larios P.R Enologist: Enrique CarballásProduction volume: 200,000 l bottled700,000 l for export of DO Málaga wine thatafterwards is named with the brand names of thedifferent importing companies

Varieties: Pedro ximén (85%), Málaga muscatel (10%) and grape syrup(5%).Alcohol: 17% vol.Ageing: Noble (two years in oak barrels).Tasting: Light-mahogany with golden shades. Tertiary aromas(developed during the ageing process), with notes of sun-exposedgrapes, liquorice, toffee candy, nuts. Tasty, silky, with coffee sensations,balanced and with a long and elegant aftertaste. Marriage: It makes a perfect pair with chocolate desserts and is greatfor drinking after lunch.

Málaga Larios. DO Málaga



WINERIES FROM SERRANÍA DE RONDA

BODEGAS Y VIÑEDOS EL CHANTRE

GRAPES:Varieties: Tempranillo, syrah, cabernet-sauvignon and merlot(dark-skinned grapes)Purchased Grape: No

The vineyardEl Chantre's geographical location is a privileged one for vine growing. Its 25 ha go up to 1,000 m above sea level, facing the Sierra de Grazalemafrom the Roman ruins of Acinipo. The vineyard welcomes the cool Atlanticwind, and features the highest rainfall in Ronda and a nice temperaturedifference between day and night.

El Chantre is one of the biggest estates in the area. The head trainedcultivation is made manually. The steep slope and the rocky ground do notallow for mechanisation.

These features, however, bring about some advantages, since the clayeysoil keeps moisture and the rock prevents water evaporation. The highdensity of the vineyard (4,700 vines per hectare) is perfect for selectinggrapes of the highest quality.

The wineryThis newly built winery is a symbol of architectural talent. Located in thevineyard itself, it penetrates 140 m through tunnels in the mountain. Theproduction and maturing sections are inside. At the back, in the heart of themountain, there is the shrine where wines of highest quality are kept. 35%out of the total production consists in young wine, 60% in mature, and theremaining 15% in vintage wine.

Surrounding the winery is a big garden looking on the impressive vineyardand the Serranía de Ronda, crowned by Grazalema.

Summary backgroundThe first wine produced by this winery was launched in 2003. It was asymbolic production of less than 1,000 bottles of a wine that was not tradedbut was highly praised. The construction of the winery ended in 2004.

Related informationEl Chantre has a tasting room and meeting rooms. It has been declared "ofpublic and social interest" and is open to visitors.

WINES:DO Sierra de Málaga: Ramos-Paul DO Málaga: No

index editorial . W i n e r i e s f r o m S e r r a n í a d e R o n d a

Address: Bodegas y Viñedos El Chantre S.L.Apartado de Correos 380. 29400 Ronda (Málaga)Phone: 670 851 480 / 7236Fax: 954 181 818E-mail: elchantre@telefónica.netOwners: José Manuel Ramos Paúl and PilarMartínezProduction volume: about 200,000 kg grapes ayear. In good years, 500,000 kg, DO Sierras deMálaga, bottled



FINCA DOÑA FELISA

GRAPES:Varieties: Cabernet-sauvignon and tempranillo (dark-skinned grapes)Purchased Grape: No

The vineyardDoña Felisa is a 5.5-ha family-owned property where vines occupy 4.3 ha.It is 700 m above sea level, sheltered by the Sierra de Grazalema, and isdensely planted (5,000 vines per hectare). The small production of one kiloper plant allows the owners to make a good selection and thus make highquality wine.

Vines are head trained, and the ground allows for mechanisation. The loamysand soil features the adequate drain and goes 1 m into the earth. There isclay below, which helps retain moisture.

At the end of each aisle, there is a rose plant. This is a custom originated insouthern France. Not only does it add beauty to the plantation but it alsoalerts vine-growers if there is a pest, for it will infect the rose plant first.

All the vineyard's production is used to make high quality bottled wine.

The wineryThis winery has a production area equipped with a cooling system and anunderground maturing cellar with oak barrels. It also has a tasting room.

Summary backgroundDoña Felisa is located in a place that resembles other areas of the west ofSpain, since it is surrounded by cork oaks, holm oaks and olive trees, andcattle and pigs are bred in the place. Vines were planted for the first time in the year 2000. The maturing cellarwas opened in 2004.

WINES: (Not available in the market)DO Sierras de Málaga: Cabernet Sauvignon 2002


Address: Cª Alquejigal km. 2,5 Ronda (Málaga)Phone: 606 945 936Owners: José María LosantosProduction volume: 40,000 l



BODEGA LOS DESCALZOS VIEJOS

GRAPES:Varieties: Cabernet-sauvignon, syrah, merlot, petit verdot and garnacha (dark-skinnned grapes)Purchased Grape: No

The vineyardThe Descalzos Viejos vineyard spreads over 5.75 ha within a 15 haproperty. The most surprising feature is the microclimate: an area where theTajo de Ronda is not so vertical. Vines are protected from the northern windand have a favourable sun exposure, so the climate is good for vinegrowing. From the vineyard, visitors can enjoy a fantastic view of Rondacrowning the Tajo, and at its feet, the Guadalevín -a movie-like landscapewith its steep, undulating terrain. The vineyard is densely cultivated, with 4,500 vines per hectare, andharvesting is carried out ecologically. Rainfall volume is perfect for vinegrowing, and there is a spring coming down the mountain.

The wineryTAn old convent, Los Descalzos Viejos, was renovated and now it houses thewinery, specifically at the place where the church was. It has a cellar for ageingwine and a tasting room in the first floor. The pressing room and the bottling plantare located outside. The whole production is used to make high quality bottledwine.

Summary backgroundFive centuries after it was first built, the Trinitarian convent of Nuestra Señora delos Remedios (Our Lady of Remedies), known as Descalzos Viejos (OldDiscalced Friars), was remodelled keeping the original style. The Trinitarianmonks founded the convent in 1505, thanks to a chart granted by Joanna theMad, already imprisoned in Tordesillas. The monks lived there for more than 80years, until 1596, when there was a reformation of the religious order. Then theydecided to move to Ronda, to the Iglesia de Santa Cecilia (Saint Cecil's Church),and the convent was abandoned. Those who did not accept the reformation wereconverted to Descalzos (Discalced) and went through all kinds of difficulties ontheir way back to the convent, which they could only reach in 1608. Theyremained there until 1664. Many of the eldest monks remained there due to theregion's good climate. This is the story that explains the name Descalzos Viejos(Old Discalced Friars). The monks' cells and gardens still stand there, built in terraces and protected bya huge rock. The scent of lemon and orange and the murmur of water makewalking around the gardens a delightful experience. Nowadays, wine matures in Bodega Descalzos Viejos in the same quietness andpeace as Trinitarian monks sought for their spiritual life.

Related informationVisitors can also enjoy the beautiful mural paintings in the winery and the oldconvent.

WINES: (Not available in the market)DO Sierras de Málaga: Coupage Cabernet-sauvignon, syrah and garnacha 2002Monovarietal Cabernet-sauvignon, young single-varietal garnachawine


Address: Partido de los Molinos del Tajo. Ronda(Málaga)Phone: 952 874 696Owners: Francisco Retamero and Flavio SalesiProduction volume anual: 50,000 l



HOTEL-BODEGA EL JUNCAL

GRAPES:Varieties: Cabernet-sauvignon, syrah, cabernet-franc, petit verdot, garnacha and merlot (dark-skinned grapes)Purchased Grape: No

The vineyardThe estate covers 100 ha, 10 out of which are used for vine growing, thethird widest vineyard in Ronda. It has a privileged location, surrounded by anatural reserve that has been declared Biosphere Reserve.

The wineryThe winery is integrated into the hotel structure, and they both form a typicalAndalusian country estate. The cellar at El Juncal has the characteristicbull's eye and a singular wooden roof. It has been equipped with high-endtechnology, particularly in the stainless steel deposits and cooling systems.The tasting room is located in the upper floor.

Summary backgroundThe owner belongs to the tourism business. El Tragabuches and ElEscudero are his other two estates in Ronda. Ramón María Lópezendeavoured in this hotel-winery development, for he has always believedthat the marriage between wine and tourism is very promising. The numberof professionals who have visited the winery confirm he is right.

Related informationThe Andalusian estate, surrounded by the woodland and vineyard, wasopened as a 4-star hotel in 2002. This peculiar hotel combines a trendyminimalist style and the most genuine tradition of Andalusian countryestates, surrounded by meadows and attached to a winery. This blending ofstyles is amazingly perfect.

The hotel 12 suites (one of them with an entrance independent from themain building), a 9,000 m2 garden, jetted tubs, golf court, swimming pool,and many recreational activities ranging from archery, canoeing in theZahara de la Sierra marsh and other sports to wine-tasting lessons. Thereception of grapes during the harvesting days is a spectacle that makesvisitors come back once and again.

WINES:DO Sierras de Málaga: El Juncal


Address: Ctra. Ronda, El Burgo, km 129400 Ronda (Málaga)Phone: 952 161 170. Fax: 952 161 160E-mail: [email protected]: Manuel María López Domínguez.Production volume: 6,000 bottles. The firstvintage, 2002, was launched in April 2003



LA SANGUIJUELA

GRAPES:Dark-skinned varieties 70%: Merlot, lemberger, petit-verdot, pinot-noir, tempranillo, syrah and cabernet-sauvignonLight-skinned varieties 25%: Riesling, chardonnayRosé varieties 5%: Muskattrollinger

The vineyardLa Sanguijuela is located on a plateau 600 m above sea level, betweenSierra de Grazalema y Sierra de las Nieves. These hills protect the vineyardfrom strong winds and guarantee a yearly rainfall of 500 l. The microclimateof the area features warm days and cool nights, ideal for wine production.The soil is deep, with a silty-sandy, clayloam texture.

High quality ecologic wine production begins in the vineyard itself. Vines arehead-trained in 1 by 2 by 2.3 m espaliers. To provide the soil with nutrients,legumes are planted in the aisles (broad beans, clovers, peas, etc.).Besides, grape stems, the branches that are pruned and marc are returnedto the soil.

Production per vine is quite limited: between 1 and 1.5 kg per plant,according to the variety and the weather, which ensures an optimumbalance between foliar mass, number of berries and quality. This low yieldis achieved through laborious manpower. Protection of vines against pestsand diseases is done by means of ecological products.

Some outstanding details: the scent of aromatic plants, the roses planted atthe end of each line of vines, and the solar panes used to supply cleanelectric power.

The wineryAfter the harvest, which is done manually, grapes are quickly transported on20-kg capacity boxes to the winery, where crushing and alcoholicfermentation of the three varieties -white, rosé and red- are carried out.Once the alcoholic fermentation is over, a second fermentation, malolacticthis time, is carried out (unusual in white and rosé wines). In some cases,this second kind of fermentation is done in barrels, resulting in softer wines,since the strong malic acid is naturally transformed into weaker lactic acid.

Ageing takes place in new French oak barrels. Thus, wines are balanced,with mature tannins and weak acidity. They are famous for keeping primaryaromas and fruit aromas characteristic of each variety. Ageing in newbarrels makes wine last longer: white and rosé wines can be kept for 10 to15 years, while red wines, for 15 to 25. The last stage includes ageing inbottles.


Address: Finca La Sanguijuela. Aptdo decorreos 131. 29400 Ronda (Málaga)Phone: 952 871 313 Fax: 952 161 825E-mail: [email protected]: Federico SchatzProduction volume: 15,000 bottles a year


109 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . W i n e r i e s f r o m S e r r a n í a d e R o n d a

Summary backgroundFederico Schatz is son to a family that used to grow vines in southernGermany. After assessing the different wine-producing areas in theMediterranean region, he settled in Ronda in 1982, since he believed thisarea had the best soil and climate for vine cultivation. He started withexperimental plantations of riesling, chardonnay, Trollinger, Spätburgunder(or pinot-noir), Lemberger and tempranillo. It took Schatz some time beforehe could make a living out of wine, so he lived on selling the plant flowershe grew in his property.

This is the first ecologic winery in Málaga, which, given the difficulties in thegrowing, production and marketing, is a worthy achievement. A convincedecologist, Federico Schazt believes that many important things can be doneregarding ecologic agriculture.

Related informationVisits to La Sanguijuela must be booked in advance. His owner and authorof its wines likes to fully explain their qualities through a tasting session thattakes over one hour. There is a shop where all the wines produced in thewinery can be acquired.

WINES:D.O Sierras de Málaga: F.Schatz

Variety: 100% chardonnay.Alcohol: 14.5% vol.Ageing: Four months in new French oak (Nevers) barrels sur lie withbatonnage (over grape lees); then eight months in stainless steelcontainers, and finally, twelve months in bottles.Tasting: Straw-like coloured, this wine has a wide fruity aroma, withmany complex notes where smoked hints blend with exotic fruit. It haslight scents of apple, citrus, and herbs: subtropical fruits (papaya,mango, lichi and pineapple). It tastes fatty, tannins are very well coveredwith alcohol (glycerine), it is very tasty, warm, earthy, salty, slightly sour,and very mineral.Marriage: Seafood

Chardonnay 2001. DO Sierras de Málaga

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Variety: 100% Petit Verdot.Alcohol: 14% vol.Ageing: Three months in stainless steel containers. Twelve months innew barrels (80% French oak, Allier, Troncais, and 20% red oak) over itsfine lees (sur lie with batonnage). Nine months in bottle.Tasting: Dark-cherry colour with a violet tint. It has a very intense aromaof blackberries, strongly herbaceous (eucalypt, mint, fennel) andsomewhat flowery (violet and jasmine). Its body is full, creamy, tasty(sweet fruit), potent, full of very ripen tannins. Quite oaky, with a mineralhint, slightly bitter, with toast elements (cedar wood, cigar box), spicy(vanilla, liquorice).Marriage: Red meat and stews.

Petit Verdot 2001. DO Sierras de Málaga

Variety: 100% Pinot Noir.Alcohol: 14.5% vol.Ageing: Four months in stainless steel containers. Twelve months innew barrels (80% French oak, Allier, Troncais, and 20% red oak) (sur liewith batonnage). Nine months in bottles.Tasting: Cherry-coloured, this wine is very fruity, fine and complex.Ripen blackberries, plum. It has a leather note, spicy (pepper, vanilla)and a touch of fennel, somewhat flowery (violets). There is a mix ofvigour and fruitiness in the mouth; it dry, fleshy, rounded, ample, wellbalanced, with light chocolate and coffee toasty notes, and sweet andmature tannins. The aftertaste is elegant, very aromatic, mineral andpersistent. Marriage: Game meat.

Pinot Noir 2001. DO Sierras de Málaga LA SANGUIJUELA



CORTIJO LOS AGUILARES

GRAPES:Varieties: Pinot noir, tempranillo, cabernet sauvignon, merlot and petit verdotPurchased Grape: No

The vineyardThree vineyards occupying a total of 17 ha produce grapes for this winery,which uses head-trained cultivation. A watering system has been installed toprevent plants from suffering hydric stress. Vines were planted in 2001, andthe 2003 vintage was the first to be traded, at a local level, though.

The whole yield is used to make quality wine; this is why production isrestricted to 1 kg per vine.

The wineryIn the vast land of Los Aguilares, its owners, José Antonio Itarte and his wife,have chosen to refurbish the old manor, although both the production andageing areas are new and conceived to produce excellent wines. That iswhy at the moment grapes arrive, they are carefully selected from aconveyor belt. Then they go to a stalk separator placed in such a way that

the must deposits, by gravity, in the stainless steel deposits. Temperature iscontinuously controlled. Once wine has fermented, it is sent to the ageingcellar (decantation also takes place by gravity), placed just below, where itstarts its rest and ageing period.

To maintain optimal temperature in the ageing cellar, the roof is covered withwater (following the Arab tradition to freshen rooms), looking like abeautifully lit pond.

Summary backgroundJosé Antonio Itarte is a businessman from Donostia who has changed themelancholic beauty of San Sebastián's mists for the bright sun of southernSpain. Eager to devote himself to the world of wine, when he put his daysin the industrial sector to an end, he had to choose between a vineyard inLa Rioja and the challenge of a newly born wine-land: Ronda.

The climate, the favourable results obtained in the Ronda's soil assays, thepossibility to produce more wine varieties than in La Rioja, and the strengthof tourism linked with commercialisation made him decide to settle inSerranía de Ronda.

Related informationThe beauty of the place is worth a visit. Apart from the old manor and thewinery, there are other buildings and a patio with arches, where tastingsessions are held.

WINES:DO Sierras de Málaga: Cortijo Los Aguilares


Address: Ctra. Ronda-CampilloPuente de la VentillaRonda (Málaga)Phone: 952 855 561Owner: José Antonio ItarteProduction volume: 80,000 l a year



BODEGA THEODOR CONRAD

GRAPE:Varieties: Tempranillo, cabernet souvignon, cabernet franc and merlot.Purchased Grape: No

The vineyardThe first vines were planted in the vineyard in 2001, and then the number ofplants were gradually increased up to the current 7 ha with vines. Head-trained vines make harvesting, made by hand, easier. The whole yield isused to make quality wine. This is why the harvesting process is carefullymonitored and each plant yields only 1 kg; grapes are subsequentlyselected and only the best are used.

The wineryThe construction of the building where Theodor Conrad's winery standstoday started in 2002. The winery is equipped with high-end technology toproduce quality wines, and the decoration and architectural style in theageing room is outstanding.

The faint light, the arches and the French and red oak barrels ensure thatgreat wines will be born to this winery, wines with strong personality whichreflect their author's.

Summary backgroundTheodor Conrad is a Swiss businessman who moved to Ronda in the late80's. Throughout his life, Conrad has had commercial links with Spain, andmaybe the country's sun, good weather and joy made him decide to moveto Málaga and live there. At the beginning, he used his property to cultivateolive and almond trees, and to breed horses as well, but it was only in 2001that he decided to start with wine-making activities.

Related informationThe building also hosts a tasting room and a laboratory.

WINES:DO Sierras de Málaga: Soleón


Address: Ctra. del Burgo, km. 4Ronda (Málaga)Phone: 952 114 411Owner: Theodor ConradProduction volume: 40,000 l a year



BODEGA EL BACO

LA UVA:Varieties: Petit verdot, cabernet-sauvignon, cabernet franc.Purchased Grape: No

The vineyardThe vineyard covers one hectare in the El Baco estate, at 750 m above sealevel, on a clayey calcareous soil, with a continental climate and averageyearly rainfalls between 500 and 600 l/ m2. Petit verdot is the most importantvine variety, occupying 80% of the vineyard. The vineyard has a plantationframe of 2x1 and 1x1, with 5,000 vines per hectare, in Bordeaux style.

The wineryThe first selection takes place in the vineyard at the beginning of theveraison, (French term used for the growing period when the grapes take ontheir colour), when only the best bunches are kept, and then a secondselection takes place when the grapes arrive at the winery. After the stemming, the grapes go to stainless steel containers wherealcoholic fermentation and maceration takes place at a controlledtemperature for three weeks.

Ageing takes place in new French oak barrels, depending on the variety.The time the wine will rest in wood is determined through constant tasting.Once ageing is over, the fining of the wine is made with egg white, and theliquid is bottled, unfiltered. After bottling it, the wine continues resting for oneyear and is launched into the market three years later.

Summary backgroundJuan Manuel Vetas was born in Ávila, and he studied in Margaux, Bordeaux,in France. He acquired experience when he established the first vineyardand winery in Ronda, "Cortijo Las Monjas", for which he was awarded themost prestigious medals. He is also one of the promoters of the viticulturalmovement whose boost can be seen nowadays in Ronda. Apart from hisown vineyard, he runs and advises other vineyards in Ronda.

Related informationVetas's wines have been recommended in the specialised press. His wineryis open to the public.

WINES:DO Málaga: NoDO Sierras de Málaga: Vetas and Vetas Petit Verdot


Address: Camino Nador "El Baco"29350 Arriate (Málaga)Teléfono/Fax: 952 870 539Owner: Juan Manuel Vetas MartínProduction volume: between 4,000 and5,000 bottles a year



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Varieties: Cabernet-sauvignon, cabernet franc, merlot and tempranillo.Ageing: Between 16 and 18 months in French and red oak new barrels. Tasting: The complexity, resulting from the varieties used, and itsbalanced ageing give this wine an intense colour, with fruity aroma anda long taste. Its strong fruit notes prevail over toasty ones.

Vetas. DO Sierras de Málaga

Varieties: 100% Petit verdot.Ageing: 18 months in new French oak barrels. Tasting: This is a complex wine with a strong personality which needsto be left a few minutes in the glass and would need further rounding inbottles. It is dark red, with the aroma of blackberries, mint, chocolate,and also wood and coffee. It is smooth in the mouth, but with manytannins, profound and fleshy.

Vetas Petit Verdot. DO Sierras de Málaga

BODEGA EL BACO



0. Introduction

1. Olive Trees

2. Olives

3. Tourist Routes

4. Gastronomic Culture

5. Useful Tips


i n d e x e d i t o r i a l . Index

OLIVE OIL IN MÁLAGAindex...olive oil



Travellers arriving inMálaga will be welcome by a duallandscape, with two distinct areas:the coast, an open window to the seaand its breeze, and the inlandregion, with its open fields and itswild mountain ranges shelteringagainst the plateau's cold weather.

It is in these lands, in the north andcentral region of the province, thatolive is cultivated. Planted in never-ending lines, it creates a geometricand dotted picture. This thousand-

year-old tree is used to produce an essential ingredient of Málaga'scuisine, as well as one of the staples of the region's economy: oliveoil.

This guide does not just provide advice to visitors on the routes thatcan be taken to visit interesting places to their sight, taste orleisure: it also explains how important olive cultivation and theexploitation of its fruits have been for the inhabitants of Málagathroughout history.

Thus, the oil routes suggested combine ethnological andgastronomic aspects, art and history, peace and quietness with adiscovery of Málaga villagers' roots.

In this rural landscape, where olive trees recur geometrically andaccurately, there are buildings and objects that make a rich heritagefor industrial archaeology, for they have become true relics.

Encouraged by the increasing tourist demand, many of Málaga'sbusinessmen have repaired old olive presses and refurbishedcountry estates one hundred years old, making them apt for leisureand rest. These are the places where we would like to take you withthis guide.

introduction

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MÁLAGA AND OIL



HISTORY

The long history of this tree begins a long time ago. The olive tree is oneof the accomplishments of the Neolithic revolution, and the result ofman's domestication of a wild species: the acebuche. This species stillgrows in the hills and mounts of Andalusia, yielding very small olives withlittle pulp and a big stone and having small clustered thorny leaves.

The first olive tree plantations were grown in the Eastern Mediterraneanmore than five thousand years ago. Evidence suggests it was cultivatedin areas occupied by the most ancient civilizations: the Egyptians, theBabylonians and the Assyrians. Later, the Phoenicians introduced it tothe Western world, and then the olive tree accompanied the expansionof the cultures that laid the foundations of the Mediterranean civilization:the Greeks, the Romans and the Arabs.

The province of Málaga, especially the fertile lands overlooking the sea,was either the final destination or an obligatory stopover for peoples in

transit. Proof of this melting pot is the ancient recipes and customs that havesurvived to this day. Who would dare deny that pescaíto frito (fried fish) dates

back Phoenician times? The city of Mainake, founded by the Phoenicians nearthe site occupied by Málaga City today, witnessed the development of the first olive

trees brought from distant lands with great care, and and offered a favourable soil forthem to grow.

Archaeological data confirm that olive growing and oil making and trading were one ofthe bases of Málaga's economy in Roman times also.

1. oLIVE TREES

HISTORY

A SACRED TREE

THE LIFE OF THE OLIVE TREE

CULTIVARS

OLIVE TREE GROWING

index editorial . O l i v e T r e e s : H i s t o r y Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil


From the port of Mainake,and from other ports of theBética, set off ships loadedwith clay amphoraecontaining the preciousliquid. It is said that MountTestaccio was formed withthe discarded fragments ofthose broken amphorae(tiestos).

The arrival of the Arabs at the beginning of the 8th century would bringolive growing and oil production to their greatest splendor. Experts in the art of agriculture, the Arabs modernized the old Romancultivation techniques, and turned meadows and riversides into richorchards. They developed many of the methods used in olive growing andoil extraction, and introduced a preservation system involving big glass jarssince they were, and still are, masters in the art of pottery. The importancethat the olive had for the Arabs mirrors in the language, because most ofthe vocabulary related to it is Arabic. For instance: the word 'aceite'(Spanish for oil) comes from 'az-zait', which means 'olive juice'; 'almazara'(an oil press) comes from the root 'ma'sara', 'to squeeze or press'; and'alpechín' (the vegetable waters obtained during pressing) from 'alpechín',meaning 'dregs', 'black'.

After the Catholic Monarchs conquered Málaga in 1487, olive growingcontinued to be one of the pillars of the life and economy of the province.The hardest times for our agriculture came after the Moorish expulsion,when plantations were abandoned by their traditional farmers, thus leadingto a general backward step in the activity. In the North of the province, thedivision of land into large states did not favor intensive farming. We have

to wait until the 17th century, when large forests were ploughed up andthese fertile and virgin lands were covered with olives, cereals andvineyards. Later on, in the 19th century, the phylloxera plague forced manyof the farmers that live by growing vines to replace their vineyards for olivegroves, even though the soil was not the most adequate for this crop. As amatter of fact, olive growing is in jeopardy in most of these lands.

More recently, the vast olive regions located in the North of Málaga havebecome the base of the economy of many of its villages. The technologicaladvances that improved the cultivation, harvest, and grinding of thesefruits, as well as the extraordinary quality of our oils have promoted theexpansion of Malaga's olive groves, which enjoy a more than promisingfuture.

Traditionally used asraw material inhygiene and lighting,olive oil, the 'greengold' extracted fromthe olive, givesMediterranean gastronomy a unique flavor. Whereas people from theNorth of Europe used animal fat for cooking, those from the South cookedwith oil, a healthier vegetal fat. The use of oil is one of the reasons thataccount for the virtues of the so called Mediterranean diet, to which Málagaoil deservedly belongs. In the trilogy formed by bread, oil, and wine, thegreen juice of the olive plays the tastiest role, since there are hardly anydishes that do not include it among their ingredients. If bread and wine helpwalking the road, the smoothness of oil makes it less hard.

index editorial . O l i v e T r e e s : H i s t o r y Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil


A SACRED TREE

The olive is so beneficial to humankind that it has been revered as asacred tree. The Bible, the Greco-Roman mythology, Christianity andIslamism make continuous references to its qualities and virtues: asymbol of peace, an image of immortality, and the representation ofholiness.

In the Bible, the olive is mentioned in several occasions. A dovecarrying an olive branch announced to Noah that the Flood was overand that the land was solid and dry. In the New Testament, Jesusprayed in a mount of olives, Gethsemane, which in Hebrew means 'aplace in which oil is produced'.

The Greeks had one of the most beautiful legends to explain themythical origin of the olive tree. In the mount Olympus, Zeus, thefather of all the gods, called Jupiter by the Romans, mediated adispute between two of his children.

Poseidon, later identified by the Romans with Neptune, and Athena,the Roman Minerva, worshiped as the goddess of wisdom, fought forthe honor of being chosen protectors of the most beautiful andprosperous city of Attica. To settle such a delicate question, thevenerable Zeus proposed to the contenders that each of them shouldpresent a gift to the city. The winner would be the one that gave themost worthwhile creation to its inhabitants.

With a terrible stroke of his trident, Poseidon made a crystalline springflow from a stone of the Acropolis, and from the spring emerged aspirited white horse, so far an unknown animal in Greece.

In her turn, Athena caressed the ground beneath her feet, and from itan olive shoot emerged. The goddess presented the shoot to the city,saying that it would soon become a strong tree that would live for everand ever. The fruits of this tree not only would be suitable for eating,but also they could be pressed to obtain a precious liquid to be usedby men to season their food, heal their wounds, strengthen theirbodies, and light up their nights, since used as fuel it could keep a fireburning for many hours. She was chosen to protect the fortunateinhabitants of the city that, from then on, would be known as Athens inhonor of their deity.

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Olive oil has been revered by all the ancientMediterranean peoples. The Greeks rubbed iton their bodies after the bath, and athletes usedit to keep their muscles flexible in thegymnasium. Roman gladiators covered theirskins with oil before fighting on the arena of theColosseum. To anoint a person is a way torevere and honor him; as Mary Magdalene didwith Jesus Christ.

In Christian liturgy, the body is anointed with olive oil blessed bythe priest, and known as holy oil, in two crucial moments of life:the Baptism, and the extreme unction or last rites given to thosewho are about to die. In Catholic churches, an oil lamp burns nightand day to light up the tabernacle.

Islam also praises the virtues of oil.

In a sura from the Koran, Mohammed says:"God is the light in heaven and earth.His light is like a niche on which there is a lamp.The lamp is in a glass vessel that resembles a bright star.It burns thanks to a blessed tree, the olive, which is neither oriental, nor occidental,and whose oil glitters even untouched by fire. Light from the light"

There must be something sacred about oil if we are blessed with it.

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THE LIFE OF THE OLIVE TREE

Olive trees are one of the most long-living trees known. They can live upto a thousand years and, thus, since the first crops were grown in theOriental Mediterranean, they have always been revered as a symbol ofeternity.

Olive tree growth is slow because it only stays 'alive', feeding on sap, fromApril to the end of October. However, as from August, its development isrestrained due to heat and lack of sap. In November, the olive enters awinter pause. Fruits will not develop in the branches that sprout in thespring, but in those grown during the previous year.

During its life, the period of optimum production of an olive tree isestimated between its ten and fifty years old. There is a saying related tothis: Olive groves, from your grandfather; fig trees, from your father; andvineyards, from yourself.

Its age does not reflect on its height (that can reach a maximum of 12 to15 m), but on the size of its trunk, which is smooth and grey during youth,

and twists and becomes rough, knotty and even cracked with age. Thebase of the tree, called stump or foot, is a wooden mass that storereserves and grows shoots ('varetas') that will regenerate the plant. Withthe passing of time, the core of the short trunk of the olive dies, sometimesleaving it hollow, whereas the bark remains alive. This is why the thicktrunks of old olives have a knotty, twisted and stunted appearance socharacteristic.

From ancient times, the olive has also been a symbol of immortality due toits ability to rise, like a Phoenix, from its ashes. According to the legend,when the Persian burned the Acropolis and everything was left in ruins, theonly thing that remained alive in the middle of such desolation was thesacred tree, the olive planted in the temple of Erechtheion. Even though itstrunk was carbonized, very soon the tree grew new shoots that turned intoslender branches.

In Málaga, the most interesting hundred-year-old specimens can be foundin the area of Periana, in the Axarquía, and in Alameda. It is highlyprobable that some of these trees bear their fruits in Arab times, and thattheir tops gave shelter to people from different cultures, religions andraces.

Although it is not farmed, the olive remains alive without becoming wild.Pruning, fertilization and hoeing are enough for the tree to be reborn andto recover its lushness. Since it is an evergreen tree, it will maintain its darkgreen leaves for centuries, creating an immutable landscape.

Climate conditions its growth, and though this is a crop that typicallydevelops in the warm temperatures of the Mediterranean area, it canendure frosts, provided that temperature does not drop below -7ºC.

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CULTIVARS

There are almost three hundred olive varieties in the world. The effect ofclimate, soil composition, and the type of growing system applied, amongother conditions, contributed to its diversification and adaptation. Andalthough to the layperson all olives may look alike, each variety hasbotanic characteristics of its own and produces a specific type of fruit, bothin shape and in color. Likewise, the oil extracted from each olive cultivarhas distinct organoleptic characteristics.

Traditionally, olive groves were composed of different olive varieties.Among other reasons, this was made to guarantee annual harvests, sinceolive trees has alternate bearing of fruits. In Spanish, this phenomenon ofyielding a high amount of fruits one year and significantly less productionthe following year is called 'veceria' and is characteristic of olive trees,

which are thus called 'veceros'. This is illustrated in the saying: Olives andmoney; sometimes plenty, sometimes any.

Modern plantations grow olive trees of a single variety; the one that bestadapts to the local conditions of soil, temperature and rainfall pattern.

In a simplified distribution, the province of Málaga can be divided into threeareas according to the olive cultivar that predominates in each one. It isworth mentioning that some of these varieties are native of this region.Thus, in the North preponderates the Hojiblanco, in the West (Axarquía),the Verdial de Vélez; and in the Valle del Guadalhorce, the Manzanilloaloreno.

However, these species with 'origin denomination' coexist with others thathave been introduced throughout the years. In the North, together with theHojiblanco there are important plantations of Romerillos and Gordalillos,the latter in the area of Archidona. Something similar occurs in theAxarquía, in which some Nevadillos can be found together with the typicalVerdial.

From the bordering provinces of Málaga (Jaén, Córdoba, Granada andSevilla) and even from other regions of Spain, new varieties have beenadopted due to their resistance to low temperatures or to the quality of theirolives. Such is the case of the Marteno, the Lopereno or the Picual, whichis native to this town of Jaén, or the Arbequino, originally cultivated inCataluña. Foreign varieties such as the Gordal and the Lechin are alsowidely popular.

The oil extracted from the different olive cultivars, though of the samequality, has distinct organoleptic characteristics (taste, smell), which allowtasters and gastronomes to identify its origin.

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OLIVE TREE GROWING

As in the case of many fruit trees, olives can not be propagatedby seed, since they would revert to the original wild variety.Usually, the method applied by growers and nursery ownersconsists of burying a green leafless branch that, after a while, willgrow shoots. Then, with proper pruning, these shoots will form afoot. Not long ago, olive trees were grown with three feet or trunksto ensure an annual harvest. Due to the introduction of newtechnology, plantation owners now prefer single-trunk trees. Bythe way, in Spanish, the verb 'to plant' ('plantar') derives from thefact that the ground is pressed with the sole of your foot ('planta')to make sure that the seeds will grow.

Olive groves must be planted keeping a fixed distance betweentrees in order to improve their growth and make manipulation andharvest easier.

Olives, which are evergreen trees, need regular pruning toregenerate and renew the branches that will grew olives on thenext harvest. This practice must be carried out in due time andwithout fear of being radical, because, as an old and wise sayinggoes; Make me poor in wood, and I'll make you rich in fruits. InSpanish, pruning is sometimes called 'tala' and the experts thatperform it, 'talaores'.

Firewood coming from olive trees has been used as fuel fortraditional stoves. Moreover, carbon production, once a traditionalindustry that has almost disappeared, took advantage of this woodthat, together with that from holm oak, provided the best qualitycarbon. Nowadays, many thermal centrals that use biomass asfuel are being built. Most of this fuel comes from our olive trees.

Although olives grow in dry soils, either flat or in slope, and that aregular rain is enough for them to develop, nowadays trees arewatered during the dry seasons to enhance their growth andincrease their productivity. However, they do not need muchirrigation, since they will not develop in swamped soils.

Today, fertilization is carried out with chemical products, andorganic ferti l izer coming from manure is only used in theincreasingly numerous plantations that manufacture biological oil.

To fight pests that affect olives, their leaves, or their fruits, farmersuse pesticides less and less harmful for the surrounding fauna andflora.

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An olive grove demands a lot of work, since olive growing is alabor-intensive process: to fertilize and plough the soil, to cut offthe suckers, to prune the trees to let them breathe…

Olive trees blossom in the beginning of spring, producing anumber of tiny flowers (known as trama in some places ofAndalucía) from which yellowish pollen is spread.

Frosts and strong winds may cause the crop to fail. On the otherhand, only some of the flowers are pollinated, since the tree wouldnot be able to bear fruits from all of them. And though they seema few at first, as time goes by, they will form beautiful bunches. Asthe saying goes: One in midsummer, a hundred in Christmas.

Olives set in the beginning of summer and fully ripe before winter.The history of olives and the oil extracted from them issummarized in the old riddle:

(En verde rama nací,entre piedras me mataron,en un pozo me caíy del pozo me sacarony a todo el mundo serví.)

I was born from a green treeBetween stones they killed meInto a pit I was thrownAnd from it, later withdrawnUseful I am and always will be.

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EARLY HARVEST OLIVES

O lives (called aceitunas or olivas in Spanish) are the fruit of olivetrees. Depending on cultivars, e.g. manzanilla, verdial, romerilla,picual, hojiblanca, arbequina, or lechín, they can vary in colour,shape and size. In regions where winter is very cold, olives areripe in late January, and if they are harvested before, they do not

yield as much as they could. This is where the popular sayingcomes from: "If you reap olives before January, you will leave the oil

in the tree."

In October, when the fruit is still green, olives are harvested forconsumption. These are called fresh olives, and they can be served as

an appetiser or garnish. This early harvest is called verdeo, and it is donevery carefully to prevent olives from being damaged. The procedure iscalled ordeño (milking), since olives are picked entirely by hand as iflabourers were milking cows or goats. As the olives should not fall on thesoil, they are stored in baskets that reapers carry round their necks, whichare called macacos in some places.

2. oLIVES

EARLY HARVEST OLIVES

PICKING OLIVES

CRUSHING OLIVES

PRESSING OLIVES

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Many villages in the province of Málaga (Álora, Antequera, Vélez, to namebut a few) elaborate and commercialise delicious, high-quality table olives.Since the beginning of time, olives have been prepared for domesticconsumption in different ways: whole, broken, pitted, stuffed or as snacks.Nowadays, pickled olives make a blossoming industry as well.

The first procedureto treat green olivesto be used as agourmet produce isto draw out thealpechín, a residualwatery liquid. If it isnot removed, oliveskeep their naturalacrid and bitter taste.

There are two different "sweetening" procedures, depending onwhether the final product will be whole or broken olives. For the latter,we need to hit olives with a wooden tenderiser on a wooden surface;some, extremely patient, curers, use a knife or penknife to cut them inhalves. After breaking or cutting them, olives are soaked in waterwithout chlorine for eight to ten days, the water being changed on adaily basis. In the case of whole olives, they are treated with a quickprocedure, soaking them in alkaline solutions of soda or potash forsome hours, and then proceeding to salt them. The salting process isthe same for both broken and whole olives.

Apart from salt and vinegar, table olives are salted and cured with aromaticherbs such as thyme, rosemary and oregano, garlic, orange peel, clove orlemon. Seasoning techniques do not vary much among fresh oliveproducers.

What follows is an Antequera recipe to make seasoned olives, whichillustrates the process:

Ingredients: green olives, garlic, salt, oregano, ground pepper, red pepperand oranges.

Preparation: Break olives with a wooden mallet. To sweeten them, soakthem in water and leave them to rest for several days, changing the waterevery day. Once they are sweetened, prepare a marinade with raw garlic,oregano and ground pepper, all of them crushed. Then, remove the waterwere the olives have been sweetened, and pour the olives in fresh waterwith the marinade. Leave them to rest for two or three days, so that theyacquire the taste of the marinade. You can also add cubes of red pepper,(wild) orange peels and uncrushed raw garlic cloves.

When seasoned using these homely techniques and packed in large glassjars, olives can be kept without turning white or being spoiled until summerhas set in. If you need some of the olives, remove them with a woodenladle and place them in a small saucepan, and try to leave the rest of whatis in the jar as intact as possible.

Seasoned olives can be served as bar snacks or as a garnishaccompanying salads. In old times, they used to be a dessert, which isreflected in the popular saying "to arrive for the olives", meaning "to arriveto taste the desert", i.e. to arrive late.

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PICKING OLIVES

From the time olives appear as small green balls on the branchesof olive trees, in late spring, until they are fully ripe, there is thepassing of summer, dry and hot. Olive trees can resist droughtsand heat. In fact, their fruit can be damaged if it rains after spring.This is captured in the saying: "If there's water by Saint John'sday, no wine, no bread and no oil." Instead, autumn rains arebeneficial, and they ensure that good fruits will be reaped.

Olives used for oil production need to be ripe before they areharvested. This happens in mid November, when they turn brightpurple black.

Olives have always been picked by hand. In small, family-run oliveorchards, all the members of the family take part in olive picking.Women pick soleras, i.e. olives that have fallen to the soil. Thisare sent to the mill separately, since they produce an inferior oil.The most difficult task fall on the shoulders of men, who use sticksto beat olives down from trees. The size of the stick depends onwhere the olives are in the tree: for bajeras, i.e. olives in lowerbranches, shorter sticks are used, whereas for fruits in the higherbranches, men use longer sticks. When beating olive trees to pickthe olives, careful attention is paid not to damage tender shoots(the talón, meaning "heel"), for they will bear fruit the followingyear. Picking olives by hand is a slow process, but olive trees aresaid to feel grateful for that, as in the proverb: "Olive trees are notconvicts, so do not treat them with a stick: use your hand."

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To make harvesting easier, straw bales are placed surrounding thetree for olives to fall on them. Mechanical harvesters (rakes operatedmanually or incorporated into tractors) have made picking mucheasier. In the past, a team of olive pickers used to pick 500 kilos ofolives. With the new technology, this number has increased tenfold.

Moreover, in the past, olives had to be pruned before being taken tothe mill. To remove leaves, twigs and dirt, olive pickers had to fanthem. Later, sieves came to be used: metal nettings separating olivesfrom leaves and dirt, the former being put in baskets and the latterfalling on the floor. Nowadays, these complicated procedures are nolonger necessary, since in modern mills olives are automaticallypruned and washed before being weighed and crushed.

The time elapsed between picking and crushing the olives must beshort, for if they are stored for too long, they can ferment and this canaffect the quality of the oil produced.

Once picked and stored in sacks, olives are sent to the press, a job forwhich horses used to be essential. Nowadays, however, this picture ofhorses carrying olive sacks can only be seen in Axarquía, whosebroken lands still make it necessary to resort to these animals fortransportation. Technological progress has changed things so muchthat now olives need not be stored in sacks to be transported. Theyare just poured in tractor trailers and directly placed in press hoppers.This results in less bruising and fresher crushing.

As was already explained, new technology and sophisticated plantingsystems have made olive picking easier and more profitable.Nevertheless, this stage still requires a great many labourers. This iswhy seasonal workers, especially immigrants, are hired to help inpicking tasks.

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CRUSHING OLIVES

In the past, horses were used to take olives from the fields to the mills.Nowadays, however, this practice is still common only in steep lands such

as those of Axarquía and Serranía de Ronda,whereas in the rest of the regions olives reachthe mills in modern tractors or powerful off-road vehicles. In the mills, they are weighed,cleaned and sampled to calculate their yield.Then, they are taken to the press itself.

The first step to extract oil from the olives is togrind them. Pruned and cleaned olives, free oftwigs, leaves or the dirt they might carry, arecrushed until the oil comes out of the cellswere it is kept in the fruit.

Since it was first invented, olive crushing has gone a long way. The firstmills were manually operated and they served quite distinct purposes,such as crushing olives or grinding wheat or corn. Later on, horse-drawnmills were introduced, and they were used in many mills until recently.Animals, especially horses, were used to turn the millstone round. For theanimals not to get dizzy, millers used to blindfold them. Those primitivemills, many of which can be traced back to Roman times, had enormousmillstones. They could be cylindrical, conical or truncated cones. Theywere fixed to a central pillar, and with their weight, they crushed the fruit ata relatively high speed rate.

The Arabs were real expertsin using the power of water,and they built magnificentaceñas (mills on the banksof rivers that used the flowand ebb of water forgrinding). This was howwatermills were born. InMálaga, they could becounted by the thousands,taking advantage of the flow of water of the province's numerous streamsand rivers. Olive crushing seasons have traditionally been autumn andwinter, and this is because this is the time of the year when rivers havemore water in them.

With the industrial revolution of the 19th century, new oil mills wereinvented, powered by internal combustion engines or, later on, by electricengines. However, most of Málaga's mills continued using animals orwater power well into the 20th century.

After crushing, thehomogeneous massof crushed olives hasto undergo pressing.

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PRESSING OLIVES

Until new technologies wereintroduced, pressing crushedolives to extract as much oil aspossible was a Herculean task.Primitive techniques to separatethe liquid phase (oil and alpechín= vegetable waters) from the solidphase (orujo = broken olive skin,pulp and pit) were entirely manual:sacks were filled with the crushedmass and the precious liquid wasextracted by pressing or twistingwith one's hands.

The Romans created a systemsimilar to the one used forcrushing grapes: wearing heavywooden clogs, labourers stepped

on a trough were they pressed the olives, and the liquid went along achannel to the settling tanks. Manual screw presses have also been used,in which two labourers had to wring the olive paste layered over strawmats.

These techniques were slow and could only be used with a small amountof paste. Therefore, new and more effective systems emerged as productsof human ingenuity. One of these useful inventions was the beam press,based on the lever law, which allowed for a huge amount of paste to bepressed at once. This system made it possible to press together taller pilesof straw mats which were traversed by a stick, with paste between them.

Magnificent beam presses have been kept to date in Las Pilas mill, inTeba, or in Antequera's Olive Oil Museum. Such big machines requiredlarge buildings that could house their enormous components, since theirfunctioning relied on height (the beam went upwards and downwards).Those buildings were mill towers, typical of Málaga's countryside, whichcan still be seen today.

The last mechanical invention which preceded modern centrifugationsystems was the hydraulic press. There are hydraulic presses still workingin some old mills. The most well-known in Málaga are in the Molino de lasPacas, in Alhaurín de la Torre, and the one in Mondrón's mill, in Periana.The finest components for these iron presses have been forged at Herediablacksmith's, located near theMisericordia beaches. Now, theonly remaining icon ofHeredia's is its huge chimney,which is visible from everycorner of the province. Newmills, on the other hand, aretechnological prodigies: clean,effective and fast.

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Olive oil is extracted from olives by crushing and pressing them in a processthat results in three separate phases: oil, vegetable waters or alpechín, andpomace or orujo. The separation can be done by traditional methods or byusing more modern techniques.

Pomace or orujo, which is used to produce inferior varieties of oil or fuel,comes from the solid phase of olives (including the pit and the skin) andmakes up to 23% to 35% of the whole produce, depending on the kind ofolives.Alpechín, a blackish liquid with a peculiar smell, is almost entirelyvegetable water, with some other substances. It represents almost 40%to 55% of olive weight. Nowadays, its use as a fertiliser is being tested,with positive results.Oil proper, "the liquid gold of the Mediterranean", as it was referred to byHomer, the result of so much work and zeal, is less than a third of theoriginal olive weight, accounting for 18% to 32%.

Every olive oil grower believes the oil he makes is the best on Earth, maybebecause they have never tasted somebody else's or perhaps they have, but

they found it funny, different from their own. This is why the best way toassess the quality of olive oil is to resort to the objective judgement of a

professional olive oil taster, for they can point out the weaknesses andstrengths of each type of oil by evaluating how they taste and smell. The oil's

"flavour" is the combination of its smell, taste and texture. How these factors arecombined depends on olive ripening degree, which affects oil composition. Early

harvest olives, for instance, produce a greenish, somewhat fruity and hot oil. Fullyripened olives, on the other hand, result in a golden, sweet and less fruity type of oil.

Most extra virgin olive oil available has undergone coupage, a blending process ofoils from different cultivars and olive types or varieties to obtain a highlyhomogeneous and top-quality oil.

3. oLIVE OIL

TYPES OF OIL

STORAGE IN MILLS

COOPERATIVES

OIL-PRODUCING REGIONS

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TYPES OF OIL

To avoid marketing fraud andprovide consumers withinformation on oil quality, retaillabels have to show the oil'sgrade clearly. The standardsare complicated, but accordingto the regulations in force, thereare the following oil grades:

1. VIRGIN OLIVE OILIt is the oil produced by mechanical processes, such as pressing orcentrifugation, which do not alter the product.

Virgin olive oil keeps the taste, smell and nutrients such as vitamins of theoriginal fruit. Oil characteristics depend on such factors as growing region,cultivar, olive ripening degree, picking system, and storage.

There are the following types of virgin olive oil:1.1. Extra virgin olive oil. Its acidity is lower than or equal to 1%. An oil'sacidity depends on how much oleic acid it contains. 1.1.1 Single-varietal virgin olive oil. It is obtained from a single varietyof olives: hojiblanca, picual, romerillo, or others.1.1.2 Coupage virgin olive oil. It is obtained from a combination ofseveral varieties of olives. The result is a blend homogeneous in taste andsmell. 1.1.3 Oils with protected designations of origin. These oils are madefrom olives with a specific geographical origin, such as Antequera.1.2. Fino olive oil (fino = fine) / Virgin olive oil (fine). Oleic acid is lowerthan or equal to 2%.

1.3. Ordinary virgin olive oil. Its acidity islower than or equal to 3.3%.1.4. Lampante virgin olive oil. It containsmore than 3.3% of oleic acid.

2. REFINED OLIVE OILThis is oil obtained from virgin oil by refining methods, such as usingchemicals. Some of these procedures use a special type of earth forbleaching and decolourising, and then filtering systems. Refined olive oilcan also be obtained by physical distillation and vacuum-heating.

3. OLIVE OILThis is a mix of virgin (non lampante) oils to which refined olive oil is added.Its acidity has to be lower than or equal to 1.5%. It is the most widely typeof oil in Spain for consumption purposes.

4. CRUDE OLIVE-POMACE OILThis type of oil is obtained from pomace by using solvents.

5. REFINED OLIVE-POMACE OILIt is the result of refining crude olive-pomace oil. Oleic acid in it is lowerthan 0.5%.

6. OLIVE-POMACE OILThis oil is obtained by mixing refined olive-pomace oils and virgin olive oil(non lampante varieties). Its acidity is never higher than 1.5%.

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To summarise all this and provide consumers with all necessary informationat a glance, we offer the following chart:

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OLIVES

Virgin olive oil (obtained from olive juice)

Suitable for consumption Not suitable for consumption(without further processing) Lampante virgin olive oilExtra virgin olive oilVirgin olive oil (fine)Ordinary virgin olive oil

FILTERING REFININGRefined olive oil

BOTTLING

CONSUMER



STORAGE IN MILLS

In old mills, oil, which is lighterthan water, floated on top ofolive vegetable waters. Thismade extraction in bucketseasier. The oil was stored interracotta jars, which wereprevented from bursting with theoil's pressure by half buryingthem underground and coveringthem with a large wooden lid.This system is virtually thesame as that used in Romantimes. In fact, pieces of doliae(large earthen jars) have beenfound near the rural villages ofRoman Málaga, probablyserving the same purpose asour old jars.

In the 19th century, iron-panelled cellars began to be used. However, they had a seriousdisadvantage: the oxide forming in the walls could pervade the oilstored, resulting in an unpleasant flavour.

But the houses of Málaga, where several litres of oil had to bestored for direct consumption, stuck to burying the jars, typically inthe coolest places.

Modern mills, on the other hand, have enormous stainless steelcellars, which ensure a perfectly safe storage.

Oil, however, is not like wine: it looses its properties as time goesby. This is why experts suggest that it should be consumed withinthe year of production.

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COOPERATIVES

In the province of Málaga, there are over 120,000 ha olive treeorchards producing 250 million kg olives each season. Oncecrushed, these olives produce around 100 million kg olive oil,involving a lot of labour and machinery. Málaga's farmers use theprovince's 70 active mills, most of them organised in cooperatives,to crush their olives. Most mills are located in Antequera and thenorth-eastern region, where the largest amount of oil is produced.In Serranía de Ronda, Sierra de las Nieves, Guadalteba andAxarquía, there still are small mills, which account for just 10% ofthe province's oil production.

Until the 1960s, only owners of big olive plantations had their ownmills. Small farmers had to take their olives to a nearby mill andpay their dues or maquila for olive crushing and oil extraction.

This system was disadvantageous, unfair and costly. Thus, afterthe boom in production of olives, farmers gathered in cooperativeswith their own mills after the first olive trees bore fruit. And eventhough some small independent companies have survived to date,especially in Axarquía, Guadalteba, Ronda and the GuadalhorceValley, where they crush and press the owner's olives as well asthose of other farmers, they are doomed to failure, so they willhave to close down or make ecological synthetic oil.

Cooperatives have their own systems of oil distribution andmarketing, a crucial point for the farmers' economy. Spain is thefirst olive oil producer in the world, followed by Italy, Greece,Algeria and Tunisia. And even though most of the oil is producedfor domestic consumption, the exports have been increasingsteadily in the last few years, mainly due to the more widespreadinclusion of this beneficial vegetal fat in dietary habits.

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S.C.A. S. JUSTO NTRA. SRA. CARMEN Barrio Albaicín, 4729310 Villanueva de AlgaidasPhone: 952 74 31 80

S.L. FERNÁNDEZ RUIZ Y AGUILAR c/ Partido de Sta. María, 3 29400 Ronda Phone: 95 287 13 74

RAFAEL MOTA RODRÍGUEZFinca la Paca, s/n. Ctra.C-366 km. 74 29120 Alhaurín El Grande Phone: 95 249 06 17

S.C.A. OLIV. LA PURÍSIMAParaje San José, s/n 29300 Archidona Phone: 95 271 40 81

S.C.A. LA PURÍSIMA CONCEPCIÓN DE ALAMEDAPlaza de la Constitución, 1029530 Alameda Phone: 95 271 01 55

S.C.A. OLIV. SAN JUAN BAUTISTASan Juan Bautista, 106 29220 Cuevas Bajas Phone: 95 272 95 29

S.C. AND. OLIV. SAN BENITO Extramuros, s/n 29320 Campillos Phone: 95 272 22 62

S.C.A. AG. OLIV. S. COSME S. DAMIÁN Ctra. del Saucejo, s/n 29330 Almargen Phone: 95 218 23 14

S.C.A. NTRA. SRA. DEL CARMEN Avd. Juan XXIII, 1 29210 Cuevas de San Marcos Phone: 95 272 80 78

S.C.A. NTRA. SRA. DEL ROSARIO Pol. Ind. c/Alcarabán, s/n 29531 HumilladeroPhone: 95 273 70 77

S.C.A. AGR. VIRGEN VIRTUDESCtra. Alameda, 1 29520 Fuente de Piedra Phone: 95 273 51 74

index editorial . O l i v e O i l : c o o p e r a t i v e s

COOPERATIVES IN THE PROVINCE OF MÁLAGA



S.C.A. DEL CAMPO NTRA. SRA. DE MONSALUDC/ Eguidillo, 2529194 Alfarnate Phone: 95 275 90 52

S.C.A. OLIVARERA DEL TRABUCO Paraje Las Coronillas s/n 29313 Villanueva del Trabuco Phone: 95 275 11 96

S.C.A. AG. NTRA. SRA. DE LOS REMEDIOS Ctra. Córdoba, s/n 29200 Antequera Phone: 95 270 28 38

S.C. SALVA. JOSE ORDÓÑEZ MARTÍN Escamilla, 17 29100 Coín Phone: 95 245 03 27

S.C.A. OLIV. NTRA. SRA. ROSARIOLlano de la Estación, s/n 29327 Teba Phone: 95 274 82 21

S.C.A. AGRÍCOLA ALMAZARA DE RONDACtra. Sevilla-San Pedro, km.121,600 29400 Ronda Phone: 95 287 30 35

S.C.A. OLIV. NTRA. SRA. CANDELARIAEl Pilar, s/n (Ctra. Riogordo) 29170 Colmenar Phone: 95 273 01 02

ALCAZARÍN REUNIDOS FP, S.L. Ctra. Coín Paraje La Teja29110 Monda Phone: 95 243 12 70

S.C.A. OLIV. S. JOSÉ ARTESANO Barriada de Mondrón, s/n 29710 Periana Phone: 95 253 79 15

S.C.A. AGR. SAN JUAN Rivera del Río Cerezo 29312 Villanueva del Rosario Phone: 95 274 21 10

S.C.A. OLEOALGAIDAS Polig. Industrial, Parcela 38 29310 Villanueva de Algaidas Phone: 95 274 45 02

S.C.A. SAGRADO CORAZÓN Ctra. Zumaque, km. 1,5 29566 Casarabonela Phone: 95 245 66 21

S.C.A. MANZANILLA ALOREÑAPol. Ind. La Molina, parcela 5129500 Álora Phone: 95 249 89 60

S.C.A. COTRACON Puente de Málaga s/n29420 El Burgo Phone: 95 216 02 51

C.B. HNOS. JIMÉNEZ MARÍNLos Ventorros de la Cruz, s/n 29195 Comares Phone: 95 239 32 70





S.C.A. OLIV. NTRA. SRA. DE GRACIALa parrilla, 15629310 Villanueva de Algaidas Phone: 95 274 32 77

S.C.A. AGRO OLIVARERA RIOGORDO Noguera, 41 29180 RiogordoPhone: 95 273 22 07

ANDRÉS RUÍZ URBANO C/ Paseo de la Villa, 2 29110 Monda Phone: 95 236 06 02

S.A.T. Nº 8064 EL LABRADOR Los Villares 29520 Fuente de Piedra Phone: 95 273 50 94

SÁNCHEZ SÁNCHEZ, JOSÉ LUCIANO Finca La Ermita 29492 Jubrique Phone: 95 280 19 84

LÓPEZ MARTÍN, FRANCISCAMesones, 22 29410 Yunquera Phone: 95 248 27 29

S.C.A. NTRA. SRA. DE LA ESPERANZADaire, 39 29715 Sedella

S.C.A. OLIV. FRUT. SAN ISIDRO Carrascal, 1-3 29710 Periana Phone: 95 253 60 20

S.C.A. PURÍSIMA SANTIAGOCOPUSÁN Molinos, 8 29567 AlozainaPhone: 95 248 00 46

GIL PÉREZ, ANTONIO Ronda, 6 29420 El Burgo Phone: 95 216 01 79

S.C.A. EL MOLINO DE GUARO Ctra. de Guaro a Coín, km.1 29108 GuaroPhone: 95 211 29 76

S.C.A. AGRO OLIVARERA RIOGORDO Pozo, 60 29180 RiogordoPhone: 95 273 22 33





S.C.A. AGR. SAN SEBASTIÁNPuente de don Manuel,1 29711 Alcaucín Phone: 95 251 08 07

S.L. ACEITES AXARQUÍAExplanada de la Estación, 3 29700 Vélez-Málaga Phone: 952 50 04 98

S.C.A. AGR. SAN ISIDROCalvario, s/n 29716 Canillas de Aceituno Phone: 95 250 45 50

S.C.A. AC. SANTA TERESA DE JESÚS Los Romanes, s/n 29713 La Viñuela Phone: 95 255 44 12

S.A. OLEOLIVAC/ Matagallar s/n 29310 Villanueva de AlgaidasPhone: 95 274 40 40

S.L. ACEITE PRENSAReal Alto, s/n Trapiche29719 Vélez Málaga Phone: 95 254 26 99

S.C.A. AGR. DE FRIGILIANASanto Cristo, s/n 29788 Frigiliana Phone: 95 253 30 37

PÉREZ GONZÁLEZ, PEDRO IGNACIO Juan Bravo, 2 29738 Benagalbón-Rincón de la Victoria Phone: 95 239 42 10

CANO BRIONES, JESÚS El Molino, n.1-Valle Niza 29700 Vélez-Málaga Valle Niza Phone: 95 251 46 11

CAMPOS PENDÓN, JESÚS C/ Río, 5 29750 AlgarroboPhone: 95 255 27 88

S.C.A. AGR. SAN ISIDRO Carretera de Cómpeta, s/n29752 Sayalonga Phone: 95 253 50 15

S.C.A. VEGA DE ARCHIDONA ARVEGACtra. Jerez-Cartagena, km. 175 29300 ArchidonaPhone: 95 271 43 73

S.C.A. SANTA CATALINA MÁRTIR C/ Calvario, 2 29717 Arenas Phone: 95 250 90 03

S.C.A. OLIV. SANTA RITAIglesia, 5229315 Villanueva de tapia Phone: 95 275 00 08

S.C.A. AGR. NTRA. SRA. NIEVES Ctra. Cómpeta, km 0,9 29770 Torrox Phone: 95 253 80 22

RAFAEL TOLEDO MARÍN El Zao Polígono 2 p-81,95 y 96 29410 Yunquera Phone: 95 248 28 58

S.C.A. VIRGEN DE LA OLIVACtra. Alameda, 17 29532 Mollina Phone: 95 274 01 00

S.C.A. AGRÍCOLA DE CÓMPETAAvd. de Torrox, 33 29754 Cómpeta Phone: 95 251 63 01





S.C.A. SANTA CATALINA MÁRTIR C/ Calvario, 2 29717 Arenas Phone: 95 250 90 03

S.C.A. OLIV. SANTA RITAIglesia, 5229315 Villanueva de tapia Phone: 95 275 00 08

S.C.A. AGR. NTRA. SRA. NIEVES Ctra. Cómpeta, km 0,9 29770 Torrox Phone: 95 253 80 22

RAFAEL TOLEDO MARÍN El Zao Polígono 2 p-81,95 y 96 29410 Yunquera Phone: 95 248 28 58

S.C.A. VIRGEN DE LA OLIVACtra. Alameda, 17 29532 Mollina Phone: 95 274 01 00

S.C.A. AGRÍCOLA DE CÓMPETAAvd. de Torrox, 33 29754 Cómpeta Phone: 95 251 63 01

S.L. ACEITES TAPIACtra. Comarcal C-334 pk. 44 29315 Villanueva de tapia Phone: 95 275 01 22

S.L.U. ACEITES BARRANCO Barriada El Pilar, s/n 29210 Cuevas de San Marcos

LÓPEZ ORTÍZ, FUENSANTAParaje "Puente Zahala"29120 Alhaurín El Grande Phone: 95 259 57 96

S.L. ACEITES SANTAMARÍA CCamino de Remanente, 12 29700 Vélez-Málaga Phone: 95 250 66 30

S.L. RIOLIVAPol. Ind. La Amarguilla 29530 Alameda Phone: 95 271 11 44

S.L. NTRA. SRA. DEL CARMEN Avd. Torrox, 43 29754 Cómpeta Phone: 95 240 74 28

S.L. BRAVOLIVAParaje de los Llanos de Belén, s/n 29550 Ardales Phone: 95 245 81 93

S.L. RAPUNZEL IBÉRICA PROD. ECOLÓGICOS Finca la Torre 29540 Bobadilla Phone: 95 211 16 19

ANGEL MERINO MARTÍN Polígono ind. de Yunquera 29410 Yunquera Phone: 95 248 29 54

S.L. CAÑERO ALFARNATE Ctra. de Alfarnate a Periana, s/n 29194 Alfarnate Phone: 95 275 90 71

S.C.A. ACEITES SIERRA DE YEGUAS Ctra. Sierra de Yeguas-La Rosa, km.329328 Sierra de Yeguas Phone: 95 211 10 90





OIL-PRODUCING REGIONS

There are three distinct olive growingregions in the province of Málaga, withdifferent topographic and climaticcharacteristics, and therefore producingdifferent olive cultivars: Axarquía or theEastern Region, Antequera or theNorthern Region, and the West,comprising Ronda, Guadalteba and theWestern seacoast. In the outskirts of the city of Málaga,including La Hoya and The Mountains,olive trees are rather scarce, but they area testimony to the abundance of oliveorchards in the past.

REGION 1: AXARQUÍA OR THE EASTERN REGION

La Axarquía es una extensa comarca malagueña situada en la Costa delSol Oriental. El topónimo Axarquía o Ajarquía, como muchos de loselementos culturales y económicos que la caracterizan, tienen raíz árabe,lengua en la que significa 'El Oriente'.El terreno es de naturaleza arcillosa, ondulado y abrupto, sin llegar a seragreste, y está formado por cerros y colinas que bajan hasta el mar desdelas sierras del Jobo, Camarolos, Alhama, Tejeda y Almijara. SonAxarquíais a large region on Málaga's Eastern Costa del Sol. The toponym comesfrom Arabic, and it means "the East". In fact, there are many Arabicelements in this region's culture and economy.

The soil is clayey, rolling and steep, without being wild. It is dotted with hillsand mountains reaching the sea from the Jobo, Camarolos, Alhama,

Tejeda and Almijara Mountains. These mountains shelter the Axarquíafrom the northern cold, surrounding it in a mild climate all year round. Thus,it does not come as a surprise that many civilizations, as different as thephoenicians, the romans or the arabs, have settled here.

At the same time, the uneven terrain and the ravines that makecommunication so difficult have favoured the centuries-old isolation of thepeople who live there, and who have thus kept their old customs, traditionsand culture intact over time. The Axarquía population is scattered in some30 villages and towns, most of them with less than 1,000 inhabitants. Themost important population centres havetraditionally been Vélez-Málaga, near thesea, and Colmenar, on the border.In the Axarquía, there are 15,000 hectarescultivated with over 1 million olive trees, 60%of them of the verdial cultivar, 22% of thenevadillo cultivar, and a bare 5% of thepicual cultivar. Hence, verdial is the king ofolive trees in the region; its name comesfrom the colour of its olives ("verde" is theSpanish word for "green"), which keep itlonger than other varieties.Verdial olive trees are strong, mid-sized andquite productive trees, although their veceríais quite marked, i.e. they have cycles ofalternating good and bad years in terms of yield.Because of the mountainous terrain, olive trees have to be grown intraditional ways in this region. Besides, as smallholdings are the prevailingform of farming, mechanical farming and picking methods are notprofitable. This is why we can still see teams of mules in some places,ploughing the fields or carrying the crops in their backs.

index editorial . O l i v e O i l : O i l - pp r o d u c i n g r e g i o n s Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil


Axarquía produces between 6,000 and8,000 hectares of oil. The region has 19 oilmills, 14 of them being cooperatives and 5,industrial mills. The main olive-growingtowns are Alcaucín, Colmenar, Periana,Riogordo, La Viñuela, Arenas, Canillas deAceituno, Cómpeta, Frigiliana, Sayalonga,Sedella and Torrox.

Why is Axarquía oil so highly-valued? Firstof all, because the cultivar grown here,which is not to be found in other olive-growing regions, produces a kind of oil witha special smell and taste: the verdial and itstwin, the nevaíllo. And it has already been

explained that oils made from a single olive variety are most suitable toproduce extra virgin olive oil.

Secondly, this oil comes from smallholding and limited harvests, andtherefore the time elapsed between harvesting and presssing is short,which prevents acidity.

Thirdly, Axarquía oil is sold to consumers directly, so it is not unnecessarilytransported, subject to temperature changes, or stored.

In the region's presses, traditional pressing methods are being replacedwith modern centrifugation systems. Some mills (e.g. Alfarnatejo andTrapiche) have kept and still use old stone mills, iron watermills or settlingby usind alpechineras.

REGION 2: ANTEQUERA OR THE NORTHERN REGION

This is the most important oil-producing region in Málaga, since 90% ofthe province's olive oil is made here. It is the natural land of thehojiblanco cultivar. Its 23,000 mills, gathered under the name"Hojiblanca" and joined by the mills in the province of Córdoba, are thetop oil-producing group in the world, in terms of both output andcommercialisation. The region has 90,000 hectares of olive orchards,which produce an average of 40 million kilos of extra virgin olive oil. TheDesignation of Origin "Antequera Oil" is a guarantee of quality and agreat incentive for olive-growers, who treat their olive with such greatcare.

There are also some independent cooperatives in some towns (El Cerroin Archidona, Guadalhorce in Villanueva del Trabuco), producing andselling their own oil.



The region's climate is semi-continental, with very cold winters and long,hot and dry summers. The soil is very fertile, the land is not too rugged andthus ideal for the cultivation of olive trees. Two clearly differentiated areascan be seen:

Antequera and the neighbouring towns (Campillos, Humilladero, Mollina,Fuente Piedra, Alameda and Sierra de Yeguas). This natural region is plainand protected by the Yeguas Mountains to the north, the AbdalajísMountains to the South, and the Ronda Plateau to the West. Here, fertileorchards exist side by side with cereal fields and vineyards. Antequera isundergoing economic expansion, which involves farming modernisationand flourishin industrial activity, favoured by its strategic location inAndalusia and its agile communications network. After the seriousdemographic crisis related to the emigration of the 1970s, the region isnow heading the progress experienced by the province of Málaga. Andolive oil is one of its main sources of income.

From the historical and cultural point of view, this wide plain which has itsorigin in the Guadalhorce River has been inhabited by many differentpeoples, who have left their mark and beautiful sights in it.

The second big olive-growing area in this region is the north-eastern zone(Nororma), adjacent to the provinces of Granada and Córdoba, rougherthan Antequera, with mountains and hollows among which there flow theGuadalhorce and Genil Rivers. In a natural ravine between the Antequeraand Granada Meadows, it is surrounded by El Pedroso and Las ArcasMountains (in the central region) and the Gibalto, San Jorge, Jobo andCamarolos Mountains (to the south). Historically, it has always been atransit area in Andalusia, between the Guadalquivir and the Sierra Nevada,and this has given rise to a rich and diverse culture.

Olive trees were planted in meadows that were oak groves until the 17thcentury. The now stretch over the undulating terrain, since the plains andthe river banks are used to plant cerals and grow vegetables. The townslocated in this area are Villanueva del Rosario, Villanueva del Trabuco,Archidona, Villanueva de Tapia, Villanueva de Algaidas, Cuevas Bajas andCuevas de San Marcos. Antequera's geographic location, which combinesplains, lakes and wild mountainous zones, favours the existence of a richfauna (including partridges, wild boars, Spanish Ibex, and flamingos),which attracts animal lovers and hunters.



REGION 3: THE GUADALHORCE VALLEY

The Guadalhorce Valley is climatically and geologically similar to thelowlands of the Axarquía. This is probably why the same cultivar, the"aloreño" verdial, has prospered in both regions.

Over the last few decades, olive groves have become smaller, sincefarming tasks have mechanised to make olive cultivation profitable. As isthe case in the Axaquía, olive orchards are here in steep terrain, and thusfarming can only be done with the help of animals. If one goes up to theCasarabonela or Pizarra plains, olive groves with very little yield orabandoned can be seen.

On the other hand, the Guadalhorce River bank offers flat lands andirrigation systems that have favoured the cultivation of citrus fruits andsubtropical species at the expense of olive trees. Those olive trees that arestill cultivated, however, produce a top-quality oil.

The mild climate contributes to olive early ripening. Therefore, most of theyield is not crushed but hand-picked and sold prepared to be sold as fresholives.

REGION 4: RONDA AND THE SERRANÍA

The Serranía de Ronda is a large region in the province of Málaga,adjacent to the provinces of Cádiz and Seville, with an impressivelandscape of valleys, woods and rivers. There are small villagesscattered and stting on the hillsides, intertwined with ravines.Surrounded by nature reserves (Grazalema, Alcornocales, andSierra de las Nieves) and with a continental climate made milderby humidity and heavy rainfalls, the Serranía de Ronda is one ofthe greatest tourist, landscape and biological reserves in Málaga.

The roughness of the land has made communications difficult, anso the inhabitants have been forced to make great efforts to stickto subsistence agriculture. And the cultivation of olive trees was,of course, part of their plight. As time went by, however, oliveorchards receded in the mountainous landscape. At present, thereare only three mills in the region: two in Ronda and one in Cuevasdel Becerro, the latter recently opened.Despite its scarcity, the oil produced in this region is top qualityoil. Smallholdings manufacturing ecological olive oil, welcome bylocals and visitors. This is the case of the mill in Ronda, where outof the 6 million olives pressed, 12,000 kilos are ecological olives,which yield 2,500 kilos of excellent oil sold in the mill itself.



MOORISH OIL ROUTE (Eastern Costa del Sol and Axarquía)

There are so many routes that run around the Eastern Costa del Sol andthe Axarquía and so many places that are worth visiting… If you have to

choose just a few, we recommend two routes that pass through olive grovesand take you to two places linked to our olive oil for so many years: Comares

and Periana. Travellers will have the opportunity to visit towns that haveremained unchanged despite the passing of time and get to know the warmth

of hospitable and open people.

The climate, the peace and the beauty of the landscape have attracted numerousforeigners that, having got to know this corner of the province of Málaga, havestayed to live and have left the mists and chillyness of their countries far behind.

With bread and wine you hit the road. And with oil, even the curves seem smoother.

4. tOURIST ROUTESMOORISH OIL ROUTE(EASTERN COSTA DEL SOL AND AXARQUÍA)

CENTENARY OLIVE GROVES' ROUTE (MOUNTAINS OF MÁLAGA AND AXARQUÍA)

HOJIBLANCO OLIVE GROVES' ROUTE (MOUNTAINS OF MÁLAGA AND ANTEQUERA)

VILLAS NUEVAS OIL ROUTE (ANTEQUERA)

MEADOWS AND MARSHES' OLIVE OIL ROUTE(ANTEQUERA AND GUADALHORCE)

ECOLOGICAL OLIVE OIL ROUTE (SERRANÍA DE RONDA)

index editorial . Tour i s t Rou tes : Moor i sh o l i ve o i l rou te Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil


MOORISH OIL ROUTE ITINERARY: Valle Niza Vélez MálagaBenamocarra Almáchar El Borge Comares

You leave Málaga, taking the Mediterranean motorway towards VélezMálaga. On reaching Valle Niza, turn to the left. Before arriving at Cajizthere is the mill called El Molino nº1. It is owned by Jesús Cano Brionesand produces a million kilos of Extra Virgin Olive oil per year. During thegrinding season, between December and March, visitors can follow thewhole process of the milling and observe how the oil comes out anddeposits in the large containers in which it is stored. All the production issold directly to the public who make the make the trip there to buy it. If youhave any queries before the visit the telephone number of Jesús CanoBriones is 95 251 46 11.

Taking the motorway again, you arrive in a few minutes to the crossroads ofVélez-Málaga. This city, the traditional commercial and administrative centreof Axarquía, with a population of more than 50,000, has some interestingplaces that are worth visiting: the Iglesia de Santa María la Mayor (GrandSaint Mary's Church) in Mudéjar style, transformed into a church in 1489,that of San Juan (Church of Saint John) and of San Francisco (Church ofSaint Francis). You can also visit the beautiful ermita de la Virgin de losRemedios (chapel of the Virgin of the Remedies), situated on a promontory.There are other buildings that also deserve a look: the Palacio de losMarqueses de Beniel (Palace of the Marquises of Beniel), the House ofCervantes, or Del Carmen Theatre. Close to the sea and with great industrial

and agricultural development, it is awelcoming and hospitable town despitethe weight of the changes.

If you ask for the Aceites Axarquía millthere will always be someone who canshow you the way. And if not, theaddress is Explanada de la Estación, 3.It is a modern mill, although some oldelements have been conserved asexhibits: the press, the grinding stones…Its oil, with a maximum acidity ofbetween 0.4 and 0.5 percent, and a totalproduction of around a million kilos, isbought, like almost all of that of thisregion, by individuals who travelespecially to the mill to get it.

Return to the car, leave Vélez towardsthe north and make a left that leads youto Benamocarra, the place where one ofSpanish music's great maestros,Eduardo Ocón, was born. The name ofthe town and the design of its streets andhouses have a Moorish flavour, aconstant theme that will be repeatedmany times in this route. Places ofinterest here are the Plaza del Calvario,the Plaza de la Constitución and theIglesia de Santa Ana (Church of SaintAnn).



Continuing the route you run intoAlmáchar from which you have anexcellent view over almost all of Axarquía.One of the most exquisite dishes of thistown is the ajoblanco, an unrivalledgazpacho made with a base of almondsor broad beans, garlic and oil. It

deservedly has a fiesta in its honour, the Fiesta of Ajoblanco, which drawsthousands of visitors on the first Saturday of September who share outhundreds of litres of ajoblanco. Comforted by this gazpacho you can re-start the route, but not without first visiting the Museo de la Pasa (RaisinMuseum) and the Iglesia de San Mateo (Church of Saint Matthew).

Soon, you arrive to El Borge, also knowas "the capital of the raisin". In this townof a little more than one thousandinhabitants, they have recently opened LaPosada del Bandolero (the Bandit's Inn),the house where it is believed the famousbandit, nicknamed "El Bizco del Borge"(The cross-eyed man of Borge), was bornin 1837. This building was once a mill,and the grinder has been kept along witha few other architectonic elements.

The Town Council has been the promoterof the museum and inn project. It has sixguest rooms with antique furniture and aromantic air, each one bearing the nameof one of the members of the gang of "ElBizco del Borge"

You can also visit the Iglesia de NuestraSeñora del Rosario (Church of Our Ladyof the Rosary) and visit the typical Barriodel Rinconcillo (Rinconcilloneighbourhood). After having a drink atthe inn or one of the bars or taverns,continue on the same route towardsComares on a road that is slightlytortuous but surrounded by a landscapethat is well worth seeing.

On your route you will pass by Cútar, abeautiful village with around sevenhundred inhabitants and a labyrinth madeup of narrow streets and cornersembellished with flowers and water. Thetown derives its name from its interestingantique Arab fountain, the word Cútarmeaning "Fountain of Paradise" in Arabic.

Then you pass through Benamargosa, avillage in which the traditional cultivationof vines, almond and olive treescombines with new plantations ofsubtropical products.



Making a wide curve, the road rises uptowards the end of this route. Here youhave the opportunity of admiring thebeautiful panorama featuring the blueof the sea and the ochre dotted withgreen of the farms of Axarquía. Finalloyou arrive to Comares, a naturalbastion where Omar ben Hafsun andthe armies of the Umayyads fromCórdoba fought, and the Castle, whichcrowns the highest rocks of the town,bears witness to those battles.

In the main plaza of the town there is ElMolino de los Abuelos. The mill wasbuilt at the end of the 19th century and

it was still in use until mid 20th century century. Toprevent the building and its installations from ruining,as has happened with so many other similarconstructions, the Hermoso family has conservedthis heritage as much as possible. A few years ago,they started the restoration of the mill and the house,turning them into a restaurant and lodging. The partof the house functioning as a hotel consists of fivedouble rooms and three apartments with views to theplaza, the interior patio or the immense valley that isvisible from these heights.

The restaurant has been set up in theold mill. The dining room occupies theformer machinery room of which theyhave conserved the stone mill, thepresses, the hydraulic pumps and theoil tanks that are sitting on the ground,covered with a transparent andilluminated pane of glass.

The cellar is next to the restaurant,where the oil was kept in earthenwarejars and the wine, in barrels. Theplace is decorated with utensils andinstruments related with oil and winemaking, and is used as a bar or aroom for celebrations.

Those who stay the night can wake upto a miller's breakfast: orange juice,bread with oil, coffee and homemadejam.


El Molino de los Abuelos

"El Molino nº1" mill

1

"Aceites Axarquía" mill2

149 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Tour i s t Rou tes : Moor i sh o l i ve o i l rou te

ALMÁCHARThe monument visitors cannot miss

is the Parish of Saint Matthew, incentral Almáchar.

VALLE NIZAIt is located 3 km from Benajarafe. It ishistorically important due to its stonechurch used by Mozarabic hermitsbetween the 8th and 10th century.

COMARESLa Tahona, one of the towersof the Castle of Comares, is

worth visiting.

EL BORGEBorge is the village of raisins.

SIGNOS CONVENCIONALESComienzo de la Ruta

Fin de la RutaItinerary sugerido

0 5

km.

MOORISH OIL ROUTE

BENAMOCARRAThe only monument this

village boasts is the Churchof Saint Ann, built in the

16th century.

VÉLEZ - MÁLAGAVélez is the largest andmost populated town ofAxarquía. It has manyvillages: Torre del mar,

Benajarafe, Triana,Trapiche, Almayate, Cajiz

and Chilches, amongothers.

3



CENTENARY OLIVE GROVES' ROUTE (Mountains of Málaga and Axarquía)

ITINERARY: MálagaColmenar Riogordo Mondrón PerianaAlfarnatejo Alfarnate

For this journey, that takes you to the most unique places of oil, you leaveMálaga by the old road of the Mountains. The peaks and ravines that werepreviously fertile vineyards and extensive olive groves are now populatedwith pines that were planted to avoid the terrible floods of theGuadalmedina river. Olive trees, now barely present, shared the land withvines and almond trees, the sustenance and the way of life for the locals.Partío de Verdiales is very close, and the poem reads:

(Partío de Verdiales,partío de muchas viñas,entre pitas y olivaresestoy queriendo a una niñay no me la da su mare.)

Verdiales, oh, my foe,a place plentiful of vines,among pitas, olive groves,I love a girl divine,but her mother won't let go.

Although on the way you have to deal with numerous bends, this routetakes you to the Fuente de La Reina (Queen's Fountain) and the Puertodel León (Lion's Port), almost a thousand metres above sea level, whichafford magnificent views of Málaga and its bay. On sunny days, you cansee the coast of Africa. We recommend this winding road because visitorswill have the opportunity to travel through beautiful landscapes and enjoyunusual panoramas. The road that leads within this Natural Park leavesfrom Fuente de la Reina.

The first stop on this oil route is made atLagar de Torrijos. The access to this oldpress is about two kilometres from Puertodel León, in the direction to Colmenar, on aforested road that you take on the left handside of the main road. Although it is wellsignalled, visitors should pay attention and not get too distracted by thebeautiful views of the Axarquía, the Mediterranean sea and Sierra Tejeda.

This road, although a little narrow, is paved and runs boxed in between theexuberant vegetation of the Montes de Málaga Natural Park. At present,the building belongs to the Department for the Environment of theGovernment of Andalusia, which has restored and transformed it. Duringthe first half of the 19th century until the arrival of the phylloxera that wipedout the vineyards, it was the press where they made the famous winesfrom the hills. After substituting the cultivation of vines for olive trees, twowings were added to the building, in which they installed the olive oil mill,the press and the cellar.

The construction is a clear example of the typical houses of the Mountainsof Málaga and also a good example of the economic boom of the first halfof the 19th century.

index editorial . Tourist Routes: Centenary olive groves’ route Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil


In the interior they have conserved the characteristic architectonicelements of the agricultural life to which the building was dedicated. Thefirst thing that attracts our attention is a perfectly conserved beam that wasin use in the past. In the season of the wine harvest it was used to pressthe grapes of the local vineyards.

You will also see a mill there, which was installed after the phylloxera crisisand the changes in cultivation made in order to maintain an agriculturaleconomy.

With the exception of the alpechineras, which you will see outside thebuilding, the rest of the elements are inthe old premises, enlarged after thechange of cultivation and the introductionof the olive trees. The oil mill, of threerollers powered by animal traction, datesback to the mid 19th century. The pressis made of piquera or black fig and is notas old as the mill. It is constructed in ironand steel from the factory of RupertoHeaton, located in the Huelinneighbourhood, in Málaga. The waterboiler was also made at the end of the19th century.

Lagar de Torrijos is open to the public atthe weekends.

Go back along the road and you will beagain on to the main road. You areentering the Axarquía, which in this route

you travel through the western part of, in search of the places in which theyproduce high quality olive oil obtained from olives of verdiales, nevadillosor picuales. The most cultivated variety is the verdial, from which an oil thatis distinguished by its aroma and its sweet and light palate is extracted.

After taking the last bend of this now quiet road, you arrive at Colmenar,the town that was the centre of this zone, and is now a quiet place, isolatedbut very welcoming.

Famous for being the birthplace of thewine of the hills, in culinary terms, itscomforting plato de los Montes (dishof the Mountains) stands out: coldcuts, eggs and potatoes all fried in itsmagnificent oil. From the marriagebetween its wine and its cold meats,the Day of Must and Cold Meats wasborn, which is celebrated a few daysafter Christmas.

You leave Colmenar towardsRiogordo. To get there, you take theroad that leads to Vélez-Málaga andruns along a fertile valley bordered byolive groves, fig trees and almondtrees. The town is situated on a hillthat looks towards the La Cueva river.Many flour and oil mills wereconstructed here to make use of theforce of the river's waters and some ofthem are still standing there.



To learn further details, you can to visitthe Museo Etnográfico Municipal (CityEthnographic Museum).

The present mill of Riogordo is calledthe Olivarera San Jacinto and itproduces excellent extra virgin oliveoil, bottled under the designationRioliva.

To enjoy one of the most interestingspectacles of Andalucían folklore, werecommend that visitors see therepresentation of the Paso de laPasión, a popular staging of thePassion of Christ that takes place onMaundy Thursday and Good Fridayevery year.

On September 7th, they celebrate theNoche de las Candelas or the Fiestasdel Candil (Night of Candles), in whichthey make bonfires and competitionsof candles.

Amongst the traditional dishes, weshould recommend the red pepper,the chickpea stew, the green broadbean gazpacho and the porra (similarto ajoblanco with the addition oftomato, ham and boiled eggs). You

can also buy oil cakes, magdalenas, mantecados,palillos, borrachuelos… all typical cakes from thisvillage.

Leaving Riogordo you head towards Periana. Soonyou will start to see on both sides of the road ancientolive trees, with wide trunks and capricious forms.You are arriving to the village of Mondrón.

Just to the side of the road there is the Olivarera SanJosé Artesano. In the same mill, which has 340members and produces 300,000 litres of olive oilfrom its 60,000 olive trees, you can buy extra virginolive oil of verdial or gold type. The cold extraction,the selection of the olives, the daily grinding and therigorous quality control make it one of the mostvalued olive oils for lovers of a good palate, sofamilies from all around come to buy it. Together withthe modern mill, they still keep the old mill with thehydraulic press, stone mill and animal traction as wellas the old cellar.



And if you want to try another culinary gem, don't leave without tasting themagnificent goat milk cheese.

Just a stones throw from here we run into Periana. Of particular interesthere are the Iglesia de San Isidro Labrador (Church of Saint Isidore theFarmer), the Lavadero de la Cruz (Sink of the Cross) and the Arab Baths.

Every year, the last Sunday of March, thousands of locals and visitors takepart in the Day of Olive Oil in which they taste the extra virgin olive oil thatis produced in its co-operative, San Isidro. Equally famous are the peachesof Periana, a true synthesis of fruit that is attractive for its colour, its touchand its flavour, and that deserves a holiday in its honour, the fair of theMelocotón (peach), which attracts thousands of visitors during the thirdweekend of August.

The end of your trip takes you to Alfarnate. To get there, you take a roadsurrounded by abrupt crags and daring gorges, and in a few minutes, afterpassing the Puerto del Sol at 1,100 metres above sea level, you arrive atthe little town of Alfarnatejo, a refuge for bandits during the romantic 19thcentury. From the town you can enjoy the views of the Desfiladero del RíoSabar (Sabar river ravine) and the impressive Tajo de Gómer (GómerRavine).

Just 3.5 kilometres from Alfarnatejo is Alfarnate, a mountain town famousfor its chickpeas, with which they make their famous dish, seasoned witholive oil. The production of oil is not abundant but it is of great quality.

You should visit the Ermita de Monsalud (Chapel of Monsalud), the Iglesiade Santa Ana (Church of Saint Ann) and enjoy a stroll around the littlestreets of this mountain town.

We have left the best of the route till last, the Venta de Alfarnate (AlfarnateInn), a few minutes away from the urban centre. Apparently, it wasconstructed in 1690. Some experts believe that the Venta could have beenthe origin for the town, as it was an obligatory stop for travellers from thecoast to the interior and where they would change horses. The story goesthat a royal messenger was robbed of its letters by Luis Candelas. Thereare those that say that the bandit was kept in custody in this inn. Visitorscan see the room that served as his dungeon. Another bandit that passedthrough here was José María el Tempranillo, about whom there are alsomany legends that circulate by word of mouth in the form of popularromances.

As time to eat has come, we recommend the typical dishes of the town:setas de cardo al ajillo (mushrooms with garlic), chivo frito (fried goat),migas (dish prepared with bread, garlic and olive oil), chicken… thefamous bread rolls of father Carrero come from Alfarnate.


RIOGORDODuring Holy Week, on Good Friday

and Holy Saturday, Riogordorepresents Christ's Passion. Around

400 people take place in theenacting.

ALFARNATEJOThe most outstanding monument

in this village is the IglesiaParroquial del Santo Cristo de

Cabrilla (Parish Church of SaintChrist of Cabrilla).

PERIANAVisitors can go on horseback tours and therethey will enjoy some of the most breathtaking

views of Axarquía.

COLMENARThe archaeological sites foundin several places in the village

indicate that there wereprehistoric settlements in the

area.

MÁLAGAThe historic district of the city boastsalmost all the monuments and tourist

attractions, except for the historicgardens, which are in the outskirts.

ALFARNATEAlfarnate is near the border and

near Puerto de los Alhazores. Thefirst human settlements date back

to prehistoric times.

MONDRÓNThe olive oil museum is

located in the oil village ofMondrón. The museum wascreated by the Cooperativa

Olivarera de San JoséArtesano, whose aim was topreserve the olive-oil-making

old custom to which the villageowes its fame.

154 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Tourist Routes: Centenary olive groves’ route

SIGNOS CONVENCIONALESComienzo de la Ruta

Fin de la RutaItinerary sugerido

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CENTENARY OLIVE GROVES' ROUTE

Almazara"Olivarera San José

Artesano"

3

Lagar de Torrijos1

Almazara"Olivarera San

Jacinto"

2

Venta deAlfarnate

4



HOJIBLANCO OLIVE GROVES' ROUTE (Mountains of Málaga and Antequera)

The Antequera region is the most important olive-growing area in theprovince. We suggest two different routes to visit it with ease. The first onewill lead us to Antequera (the city of Torcal) where we can visit the OilMuseum; the other one goes through the North-Eastern area districts.

ITINERARY: CasabermejaVillanueva de CaucheAntequera Alameda

If we start from Málaga, we will take the road N-331 to Granada. This roadhas been traced following the Guadalmedina River bed, surrounded byhills that used to be fertile vineyards before the phylloxera took hold ofthem. Now the slopes are populated with almond trees, carob trees andscattered olive groves.

About 20 km away is Casabermeja. Its modern olive oil mill keepsproducing oils that are famous over the whole region: Verdiblanca andOleobio, an ecological oil. If you have time, you could visit the cemetery,one of the most curious in Andalusia due to the constructions crowning thetombs, a cemetery that was declared a Historic-Artistic monument in 1980,when the Torre Zambra, a watchtower built by the Arabs in the 13thcentury, was also declared of artistic interest. Other interesting places arethe Iglesia de Nuestra Señora del Socorro (Church of Our Lady ofAssistance), with its monumental tower built in the 16th century, and theold quarter , where some of the typically Andalusian houses still stand.

Regarding its festivities, two events are outstanding -the Corpus, whichlasts for several days, when streets are ornamented with flowers andaltars, and the Cante Grande Festival, a festival of flamenco singing, withthe participation of the most famous cantaores (flamenco singers).Recommended foods include: the plato de los Montes, rabbit sautéed ingarlic, chivo en pepitoria (kid stew), the pipeo (dish made with broadbeans, almonds, and vegetables), the migas (dish prepared with stalebread, oil, garlic and salt), the gazpacho or the olla de la era (stew withchick peas, pumpkin, aubergine, haricot beans and French beans). Amongmany exquisite homemade desserts,oil cakes are worth noting.

Leaving Casabermeja, a fewkilometres away you will findVillanueva de Cauche on the right, acore of houses on a headland close tothe road. It is a small village inAntequera, with only two streets.Apart from the interesting Romanremains of nearby Aratispi, you cansee the house of the Marquises ofCauche. As an anecdote, theneighbours in this village do not ownthe houses they live in, since all ofthem belong to the marquises. Everyyear, the dwellers gave the marquisesa laying hen so as to have the right tocontinue occupying the houses.

index editorial . Tourist Routes: Hojiblanco olive groves' route Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil


On arriving in Puerto de las Pedrizas, we take the N-331 to Antequera.Whether you go down the ancient Cuesta del Romeral or keep on the road,after a turn, the splendorous Vega de Antequera will suddenly appearbefore your eyes. This is an olive land par excellence, where one of themost renowned varieties of Andalusian olive trees is grown: the"hojiblanco" olive tree.

While not yet entering Antequera, you will follow up to the A-92 and, onreaching the Córdoba detour, will turn towards Antequera. A fewkilometres away are the offices of the largest oil cooperative in the world:Hojiblanca, a place you must stop by in this olive oil route. There you willfind the Olive Oil Museum, which reproduces an olive oil mill manor fromthe 17th century.

By means of the extensive information in explanatory panels, visitors gothrough the history of the olive and the methods used to obtain oils from itsorigins in far Egypt, its subsequent expansion through the Mediterraneanby the Phoenicians, the Roman era and the Middle Ages, to the traditionalgrinding methods in use prior to the modern machinery.

At the end of this interesting visit, you will enter the Hojiblanca centraloffices, a cooperative that coordinates and distributes oil produced bysome thirty olive oil mills in Northern Málaga and Southern Córdoba. At theoffices, you can see the prizes awarded to the olive oil produced in theregion and purchase bottles of one of the best extra virgin olive oils in theworld. Promotion and advertising of the excellent qualities of the different types ofoil produced by Hojiblanca are achieved with the collaboration of the greatSpanish master chef Carlos Arguiñano and worldwide-famous actorAntonio Banderas.

To complete this interesting day, you can go to the neighbouring city ofAntequera, which offers a varied and abundant cultural offers. You caneither choose the route of the historic dolmens of Menga, Viera and ElRomeral or tour the religious sites: the Real Colegiata de Santa María laMayor, whose 500 anniversary was celebrated in 2004, churches as SanSebastián (St. Sebastian), San Juan y San Pedro (St. John and St. Peter),del Carmen, de los Remedios (of the Remedies), Santiago (St. James),Madre de Dios (Mother of God), San José (St. Joseph), Belén(Bethlehem), and San Juan de Dios (St. John of God), as well as theIglesia Real del Monasterio de San Francisco (Royal Church of theMonastery of St. Francis), a church that has been declared a nationalmonument.

There is another tour that leads you to the magnificent aristocratic homesof the city. One of the most famous, the Nájera Palace, has been turnedinto a Municipal Museum. You must not miss the house of the Marquis ofPeña; the house of the Marquise of the Escalonias; the Colarte Estate,nowadays the Casa Museo de la Diputación Provincial (Museum of theProvincial Government); the house of the Baron of Sabasona; the houseof the Marquis of Villadarías; or the Serrailler estate.



We can finish the urban tourby approaching the Bullring,featuring the TaurineMuseum. And if you stillhave some time to spare, youcan travel to the splendidworld of whimsical shapesoffered by the rocks at theTorcal. At the Convento delas Descalzas (DiscalcedNuns' Convent) there isanother museum that isworth visiting.

In order not to get lost and tomake the most of your time,the best thing to do is call atthe Tourist Information Office,where useful information willbe kindly provided.

After seeing so many things,you will probably feel hungry,but there is no problem in

this, for Antequera's gastronomy offers an assortment of dishes that willmake your choice quite difficult. Two impossible-to-miss suggestions are amain course and a dessert: the porra antequerana and bienmesabe(meaning it tastes good), whose recipes are explained in the gastronomicguide.

But if you have time (otherwise, you should find some), you can leaveAntequera towards Córdoba, and a few kilometres away turn on the detourto Alameda. A few hundred metres from there you will find the Hamlet ofSan Benito.

Surrounded by olive trees, adjacent to Vega de Antequera and framed bythe Torcal, this restaurant will take you to a carefully preserved ruralAndalusian atmosphere. To that end, a 17th-century building has beenrecovered, preserving the traditional elements that give personality to theAndalusian popular architecture: tiles, doors, floors, windows, bars,fireplace… The exterior is a patio with cobble stone floor which leads toan old gate that opens to the restaurant that occupies the two storeys ofthe house. If it is cold, the fireplace will be lit to take the copa from -embersin braziers that heat people sitting at a mesa camilla (small table) with thecorresponding refajo (an elegant tablecloth).

Gastronomy gathers the most typical dishes in the area: salads, porras,migas, vegetable stew, rabbit, pork or sirloin with asparagus, and gachas(porridge) or bienmesabe for dessert. In a separate building that used tobe a chapel, there is the Museo de Usos y Costumbres (Museum ofTraditions and Customs), where interesting objects are carefully exhibited.

Outside, in a vast esplanade, you will find many farming equipment,machinery and objects used in agricultural tasks, as well as many millsfrom old olive oil manufacturing establishments in a sort of open-airmuseum. The place, the food, the warmth of its owners, and the peacefulatmosphere will certainly arise the visitor's wish to return there for goodreasons.


ALAMEDAThe figure of the Andalusian bandit,which aroused so much interest in

the past, is symbolised by JoséMaría Pelagio Hinojosa, known as

"El Tempranillo".

CASABERMEJAThe Iglesia Parroquial de

Nuestra Señora del Socorro(Parish Church of Our Lady of

Assistance) is the mainmonument of Casabermeja and

the most visible one.ANTEQUERAIt offers a true art and monument

treasure, particularly at the oldquarter.

VILLANUEVA DE CAUCHEThe Marquessate of Cauchewas founded on the ground

where nowadays lies themunicipal district of Villanueva

de Cauche.Olive Oil Museum1

Hamlet of San Benito2

158 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Tourist Routes: Hojiblanco olive groves' route


End of the routeSuggested route

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HOJIBLANCO OLIVE GROVES' ROUTE



VILLAS NUEVAS OIL ROUTE(Antequera)

ITINERARY: Villanueva del RosarioVillanueva del Trabuco SalinasArchidona Villanueva de Algaidas Alameda

To guide the visitor coming from Málaga or from elsewhere, the startingpoint for this route will be Puerto de la Pedrizas, the natural entrance to theGuadalhorce Valley, where you will find the first two towns in this route:Rosario and Trabuco.

From this port you will take the junctionthat leads to Granada. The first thingyou will notice is a change in thelandscape: a valley will appear fringedby mountain chains to the right, withmagnificent grasslands and leafy holmoak and pine forests, source of brooksand springs that pour into theGuadalhorce river. In the labouring land,olive trees spread in fertile fields; alongthe river banks there are forests,vegetable gardens and patchwork-likerectangular fields where cereals swingin the breeze.

About three kilometres ahead you will leave the road and take the detourto Villanueva del Rosario, a 3,000 inhabitant-village originally namedPuebla del Saucedo due to the abundance of willows ("sauce" meanswillow in Spanish) by the rivers and streams. From the road you can seethe natural fortress Peñón de Solís, where archaeologists place theRoman city of Ulisis.

If you wish to make a stop, you will be welcomed by the dwellers' kindness,the tasty confectionery of Horno de Teodoro, and the well-known virginolive oil. If you want to buy it, before reaching the town, you will see a signreading Cooperativa San Juan. It is open Monday through Saturday.

To admire the splendour of the hills surrounding the village, you shouldtake the natural grassland path of Hondoneros, and see the source of theCerezo river from the watching point where the Virgen del Rosario Chapelstands. On summer evenings it is easy to see the ibexes go down andgather around the clear waters.

In the first week of August, the summer festivities are held and heifers arereleased in the streets.

index editorial . Tourist Routes: Vil las Nuevas oil route Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil


Just one league away, 5.5 kilometres,you will find the prosperous village ofVillanueva del Trabuco, where theGuadalhorce river rises, the largestriver in the province of Málaga. Youshould not miss the beautiful Plaza delPrado with its ever flowing Fuente delos Tres Caños (Fountain of the ThreePipes). In other square, you will findthe church of Nuestra Señora de losDolores (Our Lady of Pains). Otherreligious sites are the chapels of SanJuan (St. John), San Isidro (St.Isidore), San Antonio (St. Anthony)and Virgen del Puente (Virgin of theBridge).

In the public squares you can see the grinds and stones of the ancientolive oil mills turned into pieces of open-air museums. To state it briefly,only two dishes of the traditional gastronomy are highlighted: the guisillode San José (San José stew) and the papandúas, typical food for Easteralso named papuecas in Villanueva de Tapias, parpuchas in Algaidas andtortitas de bacalao (cod cakes) in Villanueva del Rosario.

Just as in other villages in the region, one of the most expected days of theyear is April 25, San Marcos (St. Mark) festivity, when all the people in towntake part in a pilgrimage to the Fuente de los Cien Caños (Fountain of theOne Hundred Pipes) in the slope of Sierra de San Jorge.

There are two ways to reach the next destination, Archidona: the shorterone is the Los Molinillos road, a narrow mountain road with many turns; the

other way, a bit longer, is more comfortable for the traveller and will leadyou to Salinas.

If you are not in a hurry, you can take the Los Molinillos road, named afterthe steep places where there used to be old flour and olive oil mills("molinillos" means small mills in Spanish). If you want to do sometrekking, you can go through the Hozde Marín, a sharp narrowness leadingto Vega de Archidona and wander forseveral kilometres between slopeswith a brook running at the bottom.

Now you get to Achidona, a city thatstretches over the slopes of Sierra deGracias and del Conjuro. Itsmaximum splendour was achievedduring the Arab ruel, when it was themain city of Cora del Rayo. Proofs ofits past Muslim greatness are the wall and the remains of the castleoverlooking the city, the fertile lowland and the whole environment. In thiswatchtower and on the old mosque, the chapel dedicated to the Virgen deGracia (Virgin of Grace), Patron of the town and the region was built. Itsfestivity is celebrated on August 15.

Archidona has a rich historic-artistic heritage, and recommended for allvisitors are: Plaza Ochavada, an architectural gem of the 18th century, thechurches of Santa Ana (St. Ann), el Nazareno (the Nazarene), and LaVictoria (the Victory), and the Convento de las Mínimas, where the nunsmake mouth-watering confectionery. Through a wooden revolving window,you can ask the nun at the door for a small box of sugary buns flavouredwith almonds that are called mostachones.



There are many bars and two or threerestaurants to go for tapas or a meal,where you can try the viandas (hotfitter with thistle mushrooms, guisilloSan José, porra, or a plain muffin)dressed or fried in good olive oil. Youcan buy bottles of extra virgin olive oilat any grocery store or at the bar youchoose to have a drink accompaniedwith exquisite tapas.

After leaving Arichonda, we cross theA-92 expressway and head forVillanueva de Algaidas, the landsbathed by the Genil river. NearVillanueva de Algaidas, an Arab namemeaning "the forest", you will see theruins of a Convento de losFranciscanos (Franciscan Monastery),with a Cave Church next to it. On oneof the main streets in the village you

will find the Berrocal Museum, whose new building is under construction.The Necrópolis de los Alcaides (Keepers' Necropolis) is very interestingfrom an archaeological point of view.

A few names from the local gastronomy are worth remembering:salmorejo, ajoblanco, relleno and gachas de mosto.

Always walking among green olive orchards and neatly cared fields, weadvance towards the end of this route: Alameda.

You will have to cross the road thatlinks Antequera with Córdoba, and afew kilometres away you will find thetown, on the border between theprovinces of Málaga and Córdoba.Many of its houses are goodexamples of typical Andalusianpopular architecture. At the mainsquare is a beautiful fountain datingback to the 18th century. Otherremarkable buildings are the Iglesiade la Inmaculada Concepción(Church of the ImmaculateConception) and the Vicarage, abeautiful site built in the 18th centuryin Baroque style.

But as you will probably be willing toeat, you should go to Posada de JoséMaría El Tempranillo (an inn), at aMuseum-House from the 18thcentury, where you will be able tofollow the steps of this famous bandit.Taking advantage of the strategiclocation of this town as anunavoidable passage forstagecoaches, El Tempranillo caughttravellers by surprise and, gallantly,took their belongings away in a kindfashion. His mortal remains rest in thetown church.


VILLANUEVA DEL ROSARIOIn a place like this, you should

do some trekking.

VILLANUEVA DE ALGAIDASThe August Fair is highly praised bylocal people, who participate in the

different events closed with a popularfestival.

VILLANUEVA DEL TRABUCOThe Parish Church of Our Ladyof Pains is the most outstanding

monument in this village.

ARCHIDONAArchidona's gastronomy has typical

dishes: porra, cazuela moruna, olla andpotato casserole.

SALINASNear the expressway linking

Málaga with Granada, Salinaskeeps its traditional Andalusian

style.

Cooperativa San Juan1

162 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Tourist Routes: Vil las Nuevas oil route



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VILLAS NUEVAS OIL ROUTE

ALAMEDAThe Andalusian bandit,

whose figure aroused somuch interest in the past,

is here symbolised byJosé María Pelagio

Hinojosa, known as "ElTempranillo".

Inn of José María el Tempranillo

2



MEADOWS AND MARSHES' OLIVE OIL ROUTE (Antequera and Guadalhorce)

ITINERARY: MollinaHumilladeroFuente PiedraSierra YeguasCampillosTebaArdalesCarratracaCasarabonela

In this tour, you will visit some villages located along the Guadalhorce riverflow, from meadows and rolling hills where Mollina, Humilladero andFuente Piedra are located to the highest point, Teba, and then you willdescend again in your way to Málaga, always following the river's course.The Guadalhorce river runs along ravines and gullies and it passes byattractive villages, such as Ardales, Carratraca or Casarabonela.

Take the motorway that goes from Málaga towards Antequera. NearAntequera, take the A-92 to Campillos. After a few kilometres, you will findMollina, a prosperous village in whose church sits the Virgen de la Oliva(Virgin of the Olive), donated in 1687 by Bishop Alonso de Santo Tomás.Other interesting places in the village are the Convento de la Ascensión(Convent of the Ascension), the Mausoleo de la Capuchina (Capuchin'sMausoleum) and the "Castellum" de Santillán (Santillán Castle).

Crossing the motorway, we will find Humilladero, well known for its olive oiland delicious home-made cold meats. The village's name, Humilladero

(meaning "humiliating" in Spanish),derives from the following legend: theplace where today sits acommemorative cross, Infante DonFernando "humiliated" himself, hekissed a sword swearing that hewould not sheathe it until he hadconquered the nearby village ofAntequera. The rest of the knightswho were with him, kneeled and tookthe same oath.

Fuente Piedra comes next, a villagewell known for its healing waters sincetimes immemorial (an inscription inLatin dating back to the Roman periodrefers to the waters' healingproperties related, for instance, to thecure for kidney stones). Today it iswell known for its location on theshore of one of the most appealinglakeside areas of the IberianPeninsula, Laguna Salada. You willbe able to see pink flamingos,slender-billed gulls, ducks, cranes…Near the lagoon, and going through olive orchards sprinkled with many-hundred-year-old holm oaks, you will reach Sierra de Yeguas, near Sierrade los Caballos, a mountain range which separates the meadow of theGuadalhorce river from the countryside in the province of Seville.

index editorial . Tourist Routes: Meadows and marshes' olive oil Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil


Presently we head for Campillos, acharming place, well known for its goodquality leather goods. Its most importantbuilding is the Iglesia de Nuestra Señoradel Reposo (Our Lady of Rest Church),built in the 16th century.

Some three miles away, you will see Teba, a village situated on a rocky hill.The first building you will make out is the Estrella Castle, an impressiveconstruction combining Roman, Arab and Christian elements.

In the Roman time, this village was called Attegua. According to historians,it was the stage on which the faction that supported Julius Caesar fought

the Pompey party. From the castle,you will delight in the panoramic viewsof the Serranía de Ronda to the westand the meadows and rivers ofGuadalteba to the southeast. Themost interesting architectural worksare the Ermita de Nuestro PadreJesús Nazareno (Our Father Jesus ofNazareth Chapel), the façade of theCasa Condal de la EmperatrizEugenia de Montijo (Count'sResidence of Empress Eugenia deMontijo), the Palacete del Marqués deGreñina (Mansion of Marquis ofGreñina), la Ermita de Nuestra Señoradel Carmen (Our Lady of CarmenChapel) and the Iglesia de Santa CruzReal (Royal Holy Cross Church).

From Teba, take the road to Ardales. Drive along one kilometre and youwill arrive at Molino de las Pilas, a 19th century country house remodelledto serve as a hotel and a restaurant. All the original rooms have been kept,especially the architectonic elements typical of Andalusian buildings:whitewashed walls, wooden beams, stone, grilles, doors, windows…

The restaurant is housed in the mill, so that the patrons enjoy the place'sdelicious dishes and, at the same time, they can appreciate all the parts ofa century-old olive-oil mill. The machinery has been kept as if time has notgone by. The room is "decorated" with a 20 m long press beam. Theground has the same stones over which so many generations of olive-pickers have walked, the large earthenware jars still keep the smell of theoil they had been filled with long ago, and the stones of the old mill showremains of its last milling.

This amazing restaurant offers traditional dishes. Its specialities are meatand stews made with a magnificent olive oil, and indeed, the restauranthas a variety of quality wines in its cellar.

The peaceful atmosphere of theplace invites to rest. You can stay atthe guest rooms, which were the oldowners' chambers. The hotel has sixdouble rooms with bathroom,heating and telephone. In three ofthe rooms there is a fireplace.



Maybe you will like to stay one night atthis incredible hotel and go to Ardalesthe following morning. You can takethe shortest way, but you'd better takethe road that goes along the edge ofthe marshes, with the mountains toone side and the ponds to the other,and so enjoy the view of a terrificlandscape. If you take this road, youcan visit the ruins of Bobastro.

It was in Muslim Spain, morespecifically during Umar ibn Hafsun'srevolt, when decisive historical eventstook place in Bobastro. This famousleader, born to a Visigoth earl, was athreat to the emir in Córdoba. Hesettled his fortified headquarters inBobastro. When he died, in 917, therebellion led by this heroic leader ofthe resistance to Córdoba's hegemonycollapsed. His courageous deedsappear in works by Romantic writers.

Other interesting places are the Iglesiade Nuestra Señora de los Remedios(Our Lady of Remedies Church, thePeña Castle, the Museum, theAgitanes Ravine or the Ardales Cave.

From Ardales, going down to the Valley of the Guadalhorce river, you willarrive at Carratraca. This small village, with a population of 1,000, is wellknown for its sulphur water, used to cure many skin conditions. The storygoes that Carratraca means "mark cleaning" in Arabic. There is a famousthermal bath to which the name might refer, since this bath was alreadyknown for its healing properties since Roman times. And the patron virginof the place is the Our Lady of Health. There is a church honouring thisvirgin. If you have enough time you can buy delicious cakes in the localsweet shop, such as oil cakes, butter doughnuts or almond cookies.

Driving a bit farther, in Casarabonela,you will reach the Antigua Venta deSan Antonio (Old St. Anthony's Inn),one of those inns where travellers usedto stop by so as to rest and let theirhorses rest as well. The building datesback to the 18th century. It has beenrefurbished and turned into arestaurant. The rooms, the furnitureand the architectonic elements are thetypical of the Andalusian homes. Thedishes on the menu are also typical ofAndalusia: eggplants and honey,orange and cod salad, gazpacho,ajoblanco or porra antequerana.



Next stop: Casarabonela, a true labyrinth made up of white houses risingon the hill side. Surrounded by olive orchards, fig trees and cultivatedfields, Casarabonela still keeps the marriage of Moorish and Christianelements, typical of many villages in the province of Málaga. The mostrepresentative buildings of this style are the Iglesia de Santiago (St.James's Church) and the Ermita de Vera Cruz (Vera Cruz Chapel).

The Fiesta de los Rondeles, celebrated every 12 December, is closelylinked with oil and work in the mills.

It is worth visiting the nice Mizos Mill, still in perfect shape.

Local gastronomy is based on a series of dishes that can be eaten all theyear round, such as stew, rabbit au garlic, sopa perota (a soup similar togazpacho with clams), pipeo (a vegetable dish with broad beans), sopa depuchero (vegetable and meat soup). We suggest that you should not leavewithout buying some olive oil bottles and table olives jars. If you like sweetfood, buy some wine doughnuts or oil cakes.

On the way to Málaga, there is a place that should be visited: Molino de laPaca (Paca Mill), near El Valle del Sol, in the outskirts of Alhaurin ElGrande. The building has two mills, one is more than 120 years old, theother is more modern, and both still operating. Many visitors who want tosee how the mills work come to the place. They can also know how theolives are processed and delight in looking at the olive oil stream comingout.

You can taste the product and then visit the exhibition, buy some bottles ofextra virgin olive oil and other regional products. Moreover, the owner ofthe mill organises a peculiar contest held in the so-called "olivedrome".The winner of the contest is the person who, after eating an olive oil, canspit the bone farther.


CAMPILLOSTo the south, the landscape isembellished by the Guadalteba

and Guadalhorce reservoirs,under which lies the old village

of Peñarrubia, now disappeared.

SIERRA DE YEGUASPorra campera and gazpachoare the most traditional dishes,

together with roast peppersalad, partridge and rabbit.

CASARABONELAThe numerous niches with figures of

saints are proof of the cherishedChristian tradition of the village.

TEBAThe urban areas have

been declared of historicaland artistic interest. They

feature the typicalAndalusian design, with anumber of mansions and

small palaces that areworth a visit.

ARDALESGuadalhorce reservoirs contribute to

create a terrific landscape. LosGaitanes ravine is splendid and itsCaminito del Rey, built at the dawn

of the 20th century, is a beauty spot.

CARRATRACAThe village rises on thehillsides of the Sierra

Blanquilla. From manyspots in the village youcan to enjoy beautiful

views.

HUMILLADEROA leisure centre was builton the nearby mountains,where you can spend a

wonderful day engaged inoutdoor activities.

MOLLINAThe Roman sites at Mollina are

attractive for archaeologists and thegeneral public alike, who will sureappreciate the historic value of the

ancient remains.

Molino de la Paca(Paca Mill)

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Almazara"Molino de los Mizos"

(Mizos Mill)

3

Antigua VentaSan Antonio

(Old St. Anthony'sInn)

2

Molino de las Pilas(Pilas Mill)

1

FUENTE DE PIEDRAThe nice nearby lake, alsocalled Fuente de Piedra,

contributes to the ecologicalvalue of the region.


ECOLOGICAL OLIVE OIL ROUTE(Serranía de Ronda)

Ronda and the mountains surrounding the city are always a destination forthose who want to know one of the most attractive regions in the provinceof Málaga. Olive trees have been part of the landscape since foundation ofthe city of Acinipo by the Romans; however, today the plantations are lessextended than before due to the fact that the terrain's relief is not apt formechanisation. Although the olive oil production volume is not sosignificant, farmers have chosen to produce ecological oil, highlydemanded these days.

Therefore, this route takes the visitor to nice corners with monuments andremains of a glorious past. There are incredible views the visitor will enjoy,as well as a rich gastronomy where olive oil occupies a privileged place.

ITINERARY: Ronda Benalauría Benaoján

Ronda is the first destination. The city is one of Costa del Sol's classics.Thousands of visitors come everyday to appreciate its historic and culturallegacy.

From Málaga, take the route to Cártama, the A-357, or the N-340 toMarbella, exit to San Pedro de Alcántara. It takes one hour to drive fromMálaga to Ronda.

Once in Ronda, you can follow a historical timeline path. First, you shouldvisit Acinipo, located in Ronda la Vieja, where you will see the theatre, awell preserved building.

The most glorious epoch in Ronda started with the arrival of the Arabs.Typical examples of the period are the remains of the wall and the Puertade Almocabar (Almocabar Gate). This gate, built in the 13th century, wasthe entrance to the Alcazaba (old citadel). The Arab Baths are also worthvisiting. They are located in the old Jewish quarter, where the Guadalevínriver and the Culebras stream meet.

Cross the bridge, built in the 16th century to link the Islamic city with theChristian quarter, and you will reach a neighbourhood called Mercadillo.Stop by the Fuente de los Ocho Caños (Eight Pipe Fountain) in the squarewhere the Iglesia del Padre Jesús (Father Jesus Church) rises.

There are other religious buildings worth visiting, such as the Iglesia delEspíritu Santo (Holy Spirit Church), the Convento de San Francisco (St.Francis Convent), the Convento de las Religiosas Clarisas (Convent of thenuns of the Order of Saint Claire), and the Iglesia de la Merced (Church ofMercy).

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The Bullring is an emblematic building of the city of Ronda. Its constructionwas completed in 1785, and the building project was directed by architectMartín de Aldehuela. There is a Taurine Museum in the bullring.

However, the bullring is not the most visited spot in Ronda, for themonument visitors prefer is the Puente Nuevo (new bridge), an impressiveconstruction over the Tajo canyon, a deep scar the Guadalevín river hascut in his travel through the land over the years. The Tajo, with its highnatural walls, affords some superb views of the river. Near the river, youcan see old olive and flour mills. Nowadays, there are only two olive millsworking in Ronda. Although their production is not that big, they havechosen to promote ecological olive oil.

After walking around the city, you will certainly be hungry. The variousdishes of local gastronomy will satisfy your appetite: Ronda-style rabbit,migas, Ronda-style partridge, beef tenderloin stuffed with pine nuts,Sierra-style trout, artichoke soup… yemas del Tajo (sweet made with eggyolk and sugar) are a delicious dessert.

Now it's time to go ahead. Take the A-369 to Gaucín, a scenic route onwhich you can stop to enjoy the most spectacular views in the province:the Serranía de Ronda and the Genal Valley. Along the road, there areviewpoints, parking areas, wooden benches and posters with touristinformation.

The next destination is Benalauría, a small village with five hundredinhabitants located in the heart of the Serranía de Ronda. TheEthnographic Museum, housed in an old olive oil mill where you canappreciate a valuable collection of farming equipment.

There is a second mill that houses the Mesón de la Molienda, a country-style cute restaurant decorated with farming tools. Sweets and liqueurs aresold at the restaurant.

Once your visit to Benalauría is over, take the road to Benajoán, a villagewhere cold meats and prehistory are protagonists. Indeed, the village'smain incomes derive from the cold meat industry, which makes high qualityproducts. You cannot miss the Cueva de la Pileta, a cave declared nationalmonument of prehistoric art, which features Paleolithic paintings andrelics. Benajoán witnessed travellers from distant places: Phoenicians,Romans, Visigoths, Arabs and Christians who have left fascinatingremains. The Torre del Moro (Moor's Tower) can be seen from the railwaystation.

After buying some cold meats, you should leave Benajoán and take the A-367 road back to Ronda.

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BENAOJÁNThe Iglesia de Nuestra Señoradel Rosario (Our Lady of theRosary Church), built in the

17th century and remodelled inthe 18th and 20th century, isone of the most interesting

buildings in this village.

RONDAThe Serranía de Rondaboasts an extraordinary

natural heritage. Its diverseand rich ecosystems and its

amazing geologicalformations are part of this

heritage.

BENALAURÍAUp Alta street is the Ethnographic

Museum, housed in an old olive oil millbuilt in 1750. The objects on displayinclude elements used in an oil mill,farming tools and other traditional

elements related to olive oil making.

Mesón de la Molienda(Molienda Restaurant)

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GASTRONOMIC CULTURE

Josep Pla said that "a meal is a landscape served on a plate". As inMálaga's landscape olive orchards are ever-present, olive oil should be de

king of our region's traditional culture and also of modern cuisine. Togetherwith wine, bread, fish and vegetables, it is one of the dietary staples of

Mediterranean peoples.

The discovery of fire and the subsequent possibility of grilling foods brought abouta momentous change in our forefathers' eating habits. Frying foods meant goingone step further: some peoples used animal fat, but in the South they were luckyenough to have olive oil, a gift from the gods. In Málaga's diet, every dish takesolive oil, from the simplest to the most elaborate.

5. gASTRONOMIC CULTURE

GASTRONOMIC CULTURE

LEGENDS AND TRADITIONS

OIL AND HEALTH

OIL FOR OTHER PURPOSES

OIL IN POETRY

POPULAR FIESTAS

OLIVE OIL MUSEUMS

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If you really want to enjoy the quality of ourolive oil, you should take it raw. Forinstance, you can have oiled toast forbreakfast in Málaga. But you can go one upon that and experience a superior tasteordering a type of bread called mollete,especially if you are in Antequera, since itis one of its specialties, or honey-glazedhojuelas (flakes or fritters). Spreadingbread with olive oil and crushed tomato is ahealthy habit that the Romans missed,since tomato, like many other vegetables,comes from America. Hollowing a piece ofbread and adding oil until it drips -sometimes with salt or sugar as well- haslong been one of the simplest, healthiestand most delicious snacks to give tochildren. Slices of bread with garlic andgenerously coated with olive oil are one ofthe most typical flavours in Spanishkitchens; of course, you do not have to befussy about strong smells to enjoy them!

The oil for direct consumption, the oneseasoning salads or bread, should be atop-quality product, and in Málaga thereare thousands of oils to choose from.

Here we present some recipes fortraditional dishes which would have beeninconceivable if olive oil did not exist.

AJOBLANCO

The way this cold soup is prepared varies slightlyfrom region to region, but the basic ingredientsare always the same: oil, garlic, almonds orbroad beans, vinegar and salt.

Boil a handful of almonds in water so that theskin can be easily removed. You can replacealmonds by broad bean flour. Crush the garlicclove, almonds and a pinch of salt in a glazedmortar or a wooden bowl, adding some water.

Pour in olive oil, beating continuously as ifmaking home-made mayonnaise, not allowing itto curdle. When the oil is perfectly integrated intothe mix, add vinegar and water. Finally, sieve thecream.

You can also add apple cubes, grapes orbreadcrumbs. Leave to chill and serve.



MIGASThis is a country meal, usually made in winter,highly nutritious, easy to prepare, and cheap. Itsbasic ingredients can be found in every home:stale bread, oil, garlic and salt.

Slice the stale bread. Place bread layers on adish. Pour some warm water on each layer. Letwater soak into the bread.

Heat the olive oil in a frying pan. Add someskinned and chopped garlic gloves. Whenbrown, put the bread in the frying pan. Stircarefully not to let the bread stick to the bottom.

Water will evaporate. Leave breadcrumbs in thepan until golden and remove. Do not overcook.

Some cooks add pork scratchings, sausage,pepper… Whatever you include in the recipe, theresult will be great! They are usually served withseasoned olives or radish. Hunters will eat migasand chocolate.

PORRASome people call it cold porra as opposed towarm porra or seasoning. Many believe it wasborn in Antequera, but porra is a traditional dishin other northern villages in the province ofMálaga.

You can eat it anytime, but we suggest that youshould take it in the summer. You can decorate itin different ways and serve it with a variety ofside dishes, but it must have red tomatoes,garlic, oil, stale bread, vinegar, salt and hard-boiled eggs. If you add water to the mix, you willhave one of the most exquisite gazpachos:gazpacho pimentón.

Since the arrival of the blender at the modernkitchen, the preparation of this dish has becomemuch easier. In the old days, it was madeentirely by hand in a wooden bowl. You shouldput some skinned red tomatoes without seeds,some garlic cloves and a pinch of salt. Crush allthe ingredients. Add stale bread which has beenpreviously soaked in water. Pour in olive oil anda splash of vinegar. Beat gently taking great carethat it does not curdle.

Place on a serving dish. Pour a splash of oil onthe cream and decorate with slices of hard-boiled eggs. You can add some ham cubes.

index editorial . G a s t r o n o m i c c u l t u r e Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil


GAZPACHUELO

The name of this dish may be misleading, for itseems to mean "little gazpacho" (the suffix -uelois used in Spanish to indicate small size) but itshares almost nothing with gazpacho.Gazpachuelo is a warm soup prepared withmayonnaise. Its basic ingredients are egg, oliveoil, vinegar, salt and bread. To add flavour to it,you should add cod, hake or clams. This soupcan be eaten in any season of the year, and it isnot expensive.

First, make a mayonnaise with an egg yolk. Itcan be made by hand or in the blender, alwaystaking great care that it does not curdle. Whilepreparing the mayonnaise, put some water andsalt to the boil. Stir the egg white into the boilingwater.

The mayonnaise is dissolved pouring in a littlewarm water, again taking care it does not curdle.Pour a little vinegar. Then, add fish or clams andreturn to the flame. Gazpachuelo is servedwarm.

If you leave some soup in the dish and add theegg white, orange cubes, olives and olive oil, youwill get another delicious dish.

PESCAÍTO FRITO (FRIED FISH)

A good dish of deep fried anchovies servedmaking a fan shape is always pleasing to theeye, it smells and tastes great. Fried fish orpescaítos is a world-famous dish from Málaga.Fish used to make this meal are smallanchovies, squids, red mullets, etc. Fish must becoated with flour, lump-free. Fish must be deepfried in olive oil, at the proper temperature, forthe right time.

Salvador Rueda refers to fried fish in one of hispoems:

(De los peces chiquititosque el mar tiene en sus entrañas,me gustan los más chiquitosen manojos pequeñitoscual manojos de pestañas.)

Of those teeny-weeny fishin the bosom of the seaI prefer those small thingsthat a single hand can keeplike lashes in a small dish.

Some of us still remember those stalls in thestreets where fried fish was sold in paper cones.Served either in cones or in a serving dish in aposh restaurant, deep-fried fish is an emblematicdish in Málaga, and an essential part of itsgastronomic culture.



GAZPACHO

There are quite many variants of gazpacho,created as a result of necessity, heat or scarce offood in the country. We will include here thevariant which is easiest to prepare, calledgazpacho liso or saltalindes.

You will see how unbelievable simple it is tomake it. Clean two or three red ripe tomatoes,two green peppers and a small onion. Chop thevegetables finely. Season with some salt,vinegar and virgin olive oil. Add water and stir.Add salt or vinegar to taste. If you have addedtoo much of these seasonings, you can addsome water.

When broad beans are in season, whichnowadays extends all year round, you can stir insome. The dish is ready to serve.

CHIVO AL AJILLO (GOAT AU GARLIC)

Cut the goat in cubes, rinse and season with salt.Put 6 cups of olive oil in a frying pan. Whensizzling hot, stir in the meat until slightly brown.

Meanwhile chop 1 kg (2 lb) tomatoes, 250 g (0.5lb) of pepper, 2 onions and 4 cloves of garlic, afew bay leaves and some pepper. Add thevegetables to the pan and stir.

Simmer over medium flame. When it starts toboil down, add 2 cups of white wine. Stircontinuously to avoid sticking.

Eat directly from the pan.

TORTAS DE ACEITE (OLIVE OIL CAKES)

This is a typical pastry from Málaga that can beeaten all year round. Its basic ingredients areolive oil, flour, sugar, white wine, cinnamon,sesame, fennel seeds and almonds.

Heat two cups of olive oil. Add the skin of onelemon. When the oil is hot, remove it from heatand stir in 1 tablespoon of sesame seeds and 1tablespoon of fennel seeds. When lukewarm, putthe olive oil into a bowl and pour 1 cup of whitewine, grated lemon rind and 150 g (5 oz) ofsugar.

Mix well. Add the flour to make a dough. Leaveto rest and then shape the mixture into smallcakes. Place chopped almonds, previouslyblanched and skinned.

Turn the cakes into a tin and bake in a low oven.



LEGENDS AND TRADITIONS

In Málaga there are many legends, traditions and popular fiestascelebrating olives and olive oil and emphasising their important role theyhave had for the people.

In some villages, when someone finishes building their house, it iscustomary to bring them a small bag of salt and a bottle of oil for theinhabitants' wishes to come true.

Since Antiquity, the olive branch has been a symbol of peace and, togetherwith the white dove that carries it in its beak, it has always represented thatprecious state.

There is also the belief that placing a blessed olive branch from the PalmSunday procession at the windows of a house will protect the house'sinhabitants from lightning. This spell, of course, reflects the syncretism ofreligious and superstitious elements. Catholicism uses this mystic power ofolive trees in many of its rituals: the ashes used to anoint the parishioners'foreheads comes from burnt olive branches and on Ash Wednesday weare reminded that we are mortal with the terrible words Memento, homo,quia pulvis eris et in pulvere te reverteris. "[...] for dust thou [art], and untodust shalt thou return." (Genesis, 3:19)

The same blending of magic and religion can be found in the traditionassociated with the Christmas tree burn: a huge tree trunk -sometimes aholm oak, but mostly an olive tree is burnt on Christmas Eve, which iswhere the tree's name comes from: Nochebueno (pertaining to ChristmasEve). The tree burns down in the chimney, and so its ashes protect thehouse from lightning.

Good-quality or just lampante oil has always been the fuel of the lampburning night and day at the church tabernacle or illuminating devotionalimages. A long time ago, in Almogía (a village 23 km from Málaga), avillager planted and grew an olive tree and he promised to offer as muchoil as could be extracted from his tree to the moths that burn to the memoryof "Blessed Souls". The tree is now known as the "Soul Tree".

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At Candle Night, in February, the bonfires lighted to honour theCandelaria Virgin are made of olive tree branches pruned at thistime of the year. The dances, songs and jumps round the bonfireembers resemble fertility rites, and the olive tree is a symbol offertility.

Along with traditional food fiestas (ajoblanco, oil, migas, coldmeats) celebrated in some of Málaga's villages, there is atraditional fiesta perpetuating the magical relation between oil andfire: the Fiesta de los Rondeles, which takes place inCasarabonela every 12 December, a complex rite where oil, fireand popular religion make an inextricable blend of superstition,magic and religion.

Since Antiquity, oil has been associated to owls, the night birdwhich in Greek mythology was the attribute of Athena (RomanMinerva), who gave her city, Athens, an olive tree, source of food,oil and wood. And it so happens that in Málaga, popular wisdomhas always associated oil with owls, since the latter inhabit oliveorchards and are believed to increase the production of olives withtheir alluring hoots and screeches. Knowing this, it is not difficultto understand why there is a famous brand of oil and soap calledMinerva.

There is also a beautiful legend among farmers that tells of therelationship between oil and the Arabs. It is said that even thoughthe Moors have been driven out of Andalusia (Al Andalus), theystil l are the real owners of olive trees, since they wereunparalleled experts in growing and looking after olives. As a signof their ownership, every year they send flocks of thrushes thatperk on the olive trees' branches. Each bird picks three olives, onewith their beak and one in each foot, and they take their preciousburden back to Africa, to return it to its original owners.

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OIL AND HEALTH

S ince ancient times, when illnesses were cured with herbalmedicines, oil has been one of the most popular homely remedies.Even nowadays, when we can find medicines for all kinds ofillnesses, we can still find a granny trying to cure her grandson'sbellyache with a spoonful of oil. Part of this popular wisdom isexpressed in a proverb about the healing properties of oil: Olive oiltakes all pains and sorrows away. Another proverb can be quoted,which reveals another interesting characteristic of oil: low-qualityor lampante oil, mainly used as lamp fuel, is sometimes usedbecause it is cheaper, so the saying goes With lamp oil, no pain orsorrow survives.

Apart from being used as a balm, olive oil was used as aningredient in love potions (pócimas or aliños in Spanish). Thus, oilhas become a cure for ill bodies and sick hearts alike.

In the 1st century B.C., Pliny wrote that "There are to beverageswith a lot of benefits to the human body: wine for internal use, andfor external use, oil."

Professor Grande Covián, an expert in health and nutrition,attributes the low mortality rate from coronary heart diseaseamong Mediterranean populations to olive oil consumption.

Enrique Mapelli, a gourmet from Málaga, mentions that "Becauseof its balanced composition, olive oil is the vegetable oil with thefewest negative effects on and the highest number of advantagesfor human health: it reduces cholesterol, contributes to child bonedevelopment and improves blood circulation, thus diminishing theincidence of atherosclerosis."

It has been shown that peoples on a Mediterranean diet, one ofwhose staples is olive oil, are less prone to have too muchcholesterol in their bloodstream, a substance that leads tonarrowing and blockage of arteries and is responsible for a highrate of deaths in countries who fall prey to the bad eating habitsimposed by modern life. Besides, olive oil is beneficial to intestinalfunctioning for it lubricates the intestine, thus preventingconstipation. Indeed, there is a proverb that says, "With warm feetand smoothly moving bowels, you can laugh at death for long."

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OIL FOR OTHER PURPOSESApart from being an basic ingredient in the kitchen, extra virgin olive oilhas been used for many other purposes which can be grouped into fourbasic categories: beauty, lighting, soap-making and food preservation.

OIL AND BEAUTY

As olive oil is greasyand has theinvaluable vitamin E,it has always beenused as a basicingredient in body,facial and hairbeauty products. It isever-present infragrance oils,combined with

crushed or emulsified seeds, fruits or herbs: almonds, sesame,coconuts, lavender, and many others.

What follows is a recipe for a sun oil taken from Lourdes March andAlicia Ríos's El libro del aceite y la aceituna (The Book of Olives andOlive Oil).

Sesame oilTake 3 tablespoonfuls of extra virgin olive oil, 2 tablespoonfuls of sesameoil, 1 tablespoonful of vinegar and a few drops of bergamot oil. Mix theingredients in a bottle and shake it every time you use it before sunbathing.

OIL AND LIGHTING

Low-quality olive oil has used as alighting fuel since the beginning oftime. Because of the flame it produces,bright and long-lasting, this type of oilhas been called lampante (from lamp).

One of the most frequent objects foundin Roman archaeological sites are finely decorated, terracotta oil lampscalled lucernae, which used olive oil as their fuel.

Before the invention of electric light, even when the use of gas or kerosenelamps was already widespread, humble houses were illuminated withlanterns (candiles), simple metal lamps with a hollow to pour in olive oiland a cotton wick that burned down slowly. In posh neighbourhoods, oilused to burn in sophisticated copper plates with several arms. Thecontainers used to keep the lighting oil are called cruets (alcuzas). Thereis a folk song that show how the lantern burning on oil can become an allyof lovers:

(El candil se está apagando;La alcuza no tiene aceite;Ni te digo que te vayas;Ni tampoco que te quedes.)

The lantern is burning down;The cruet has no oil left;I don't say that you should leave;Neither do I mean you to stay

index editorial . Gastronomic culture: Oil for other purposes Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil


OIL AND SOAP-MAKING

Olive oil lees (liquid wastes) are inedible, but they are used in themanufacture of a personal hygiene and clothes care basic product:soap. Making soap was customary at Spanish homes: it had atypical smell and it was environment-friendly. The procedure isvery simple: you should pour in oil (lees or used cooking oil),caustic soda and water in a boiler, and boil the mix until you get awhitish and thick paste. Then you leave it to rest for two hours untilsolid, and to cut it into bars with a wire. The Arabs used ashes andlime as alkaline components; in fact, al-qali means "ash" in Arabic.

FOOD PRESERVATION

Salt, sugar and oil are the traditional natural preservatives untilthe arrival of modern refrigerators. In the past, fish could only bepreserved by smoking, salting or covering it in oil: canned tuna,sardines or mackerel in olive oil can be eaten all year round. Butmaybe cheese, especially goat cheese, is the most representativefood associated with oil preservation, since cubed and soaked inolive oil, it is one of the most delicious things on Earth. Many ofthe villages we will pass by when presenting the different olive oilroutes sell this exquisite oil-preserved cheese.

index editorial . Gastronomic culture: Oil for other purposes Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil


O l ive trees, olives and thelabour associated with their careare recurrent topics inAndalusian folk songs. Everyyear when the harvest ends,there are fiestas for men andwomen olive pickers sing, danceand play games. Many beautifulstanzas have come down to us,whose lyrics talk about courtingand love

(Tú eres aceitunera,yo, aceitunero;por una aceitunerita,madre, me muero.)

You are an olive-picker,I'm an olive-picker too;for a girl who picks olives,mum, I could die so soon.

(Los ojos de mi morenani son chicos ni son grandes,que son aceitunas negrasde los olivos gordales.)

My mistress's eyes are neither small nor big;they are black olivesfrom a gordal olive tree.)

(Un olivo bien plantaosiempre parece oliveray una mujer bien casásiempre parece soltera.)

A well-planted olive treealways looks like bearing fruitand a woman who is well-marriedalways single's how she looks.

(Salga la luna y alumbrelos huertos y los olivares,que el querer que yo te tengode las entrañas me sale.)

Let the moon come up and lightthe orchards and olive fields,for it oozed out of my gutsthe love that for thee I feel.

(Recogiendo aceitunasse hacen las bodas;quien no va de aceitunasno se enamora.¿Qué tendrán, madrepara cosas de amores,los olivares?)

Picking and harvesting olivesis how weddings are fixed;those who do not enjoy pickingare by love untinged.What is it, mother, they havethese olive treesfor the things of love?

(Yo cojo las de abajo,tú las de arriba;por entre rama y ramamiro y me miras.)

I'll pick the ones on topyou'll pick the ones below;mutual glimpses will we getthrough the tree, between itsbranches and above.

(Ojos que te vieron irPor aquellos olivares,¿cuándo te verán volverpara alivio de mis males?)

My eyes bade you farewellwhen you walked into the olive grove;when will they see you againso my sorrows go away?

(El querer que te tuvefue aceitunero.Se acabó la aceituna,ya no te quiero.)

Our love was like an oliveand it lasted just one harvest;now that there are no more olives I have no more loving habits.

(Anda diciendo tu madreque tiene un olivar;el olivar que tú tieneses que te quieres casar.)

You morther is telling the world that she has an olive groveyour olive orchard, instead,is that you want to be loved.

index editorial . Gastronomic culture: Oil in poetry Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil

OIL IN POETRY


Andalusian olive trees are present inAntonio Machado's poetry, some ofwhose stanzas are quoted here:

(¡Viejos olivos sedientosbajo el claro sol del día,olivares polvorientosdel campo de Andalucía!)

Olive trees, thirsty and old under the light of the sun,dusty, dusty olive grove,in Andalusian lands!

(Sobre el olivarse vio la lechuzavolar y volar.)

Across the olive grove,the owl was seen to fly low and low and low.

(Campo, campo, campo,entre los olivoslos cortijos blancos.)

Field, field, field,country estates intertwined with lines of olive trees.

In Federico García Lorca's poetry,olive trees are also a recurrentimage:

(Por el olivar venían,bronce y sueño, los gitanoslas cabezas levantadasy los ojos entornados.)

Along the olive grove there came,the gypsies, dreams and bronzethey had their heads half-raised they had their eyes half-closed.

This section would not be completewith the Antequera-born poet JoséAntonio Muñoz Rojas's lines, whichintroduce us to a poet leaning on anolive tree which becomes a silentwitness and symbol of the poet'sfeelings and reflections:

(En este olivarillo de la loma,que apenas tiene sombra, apenasflores,que ilustren su pobreza con coloreso alegren su silencio con aroma

y que devuelve en fruto cuantotomade la tierra y nos da sus sudoresaceite, que en doradosresplandoresla dura oscuridad reduce y doma;

en este olivarillo, mi consuelome vino, sin saber cómo ni cuándo,mientras iba por él entretenido;

no sé si es de la tierra o es delcielo,sólo sé que lo siento aquíalentando;y el corazón lo tiene por latido.)

In this little uphill olive tree ,which has no shadow, bud orshoot,to disguise in colours its poverty for its silence in smell to take root.

and which turns into fruit what itholds from the land and gives us itssweatoil, which in its golden glows harsh darkness tames and wets;

from this little olive oil my comfortcame,without my knowing how or when,while I was in it amused;

I don't know if it's the land or theskyOnly I know I can feel it inside, and my heart takes if for beating,confused.

index editorial . Gastronomic culture: Oil in poetry Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil


POPULAR FIESTAS

FIESTA DE LOS RONDELES (CASARABONELA)

The Fiesta de los Rondeles (Straw Mats Fiesta) is perhaps the oldest ofthose oil-related celebrations in Málaga. It was declared an event ofNational Tourist Interest in Andalusia in 2001 and it has been organised inCasarabonela for centuries now. It consists in burning the rondeles (thestraw mats used for olive pressing. In the past, millers used to walk inprocession, brandishing burning straw mats, to thank Virgin Mary for theolive harvest. Despite its religious nature, it was banned after the SpanishCivil War, and it could not be held until the 1970s, with the excuse that itwas pagan in spirit rather than religious.

After these years of intolerance, the celebration began again, and every 12December, on the eve of Saint Lucy's day's, the ritual is renewed everyyear with great enthusiasm and minor changes.

Instead of burning the mats extended, the villagers agreed to burn themrolled, so that the flame could last longer. At about 10 P.M., after the fire toburn the mats soaked in oil is blessed, the Virgen de los Rondeles (Virginof Olive Straw Mats) procession begins its way from the square next to theChapel of Veracruz to the highest part of the village, where the Church ofSaint James the Apostle lies. The procession is accompanied byCasarabonela's Pastoral Staff, who sing old songs with rattles, mortarsand Moorish castanets. While having this intense experience where theprotagonist is fire, villagers and visitors can enjoy an invigorating hotchocolate cup with some slices of bread with olive oil and garlic and light-as-the-wind fritters. As the procession walks along the winding roads, thispicturesque village comes to life with the light of lanterns hanging frombalconies and windows. This ancient tradition is witnessed by thousandsof visitors every year.

FIESTA DE LAS MIGAS (TORROX)

Fiesta de las Migas: 30-12-02 Another fiesta celebrated in Málaga that has also been declared of TouristInterest is held in the village of Torrox on the Sunday before Christmas, theFiesta de las Migas (Bread Crumbs Fiesta). Thousands of people visit thevillage every year to taste this country meal prepared mainly in winter,which is invigorating, cheap and nutritious, for its ingredients arecarbohydrates: bread, olive oil and garlic. As people say there, a plate ofmigas a day keeps the doctor away. Even though this dish is traditionallyprepared with stale country bread, for the celebration semolina is used,since there are too many mouths to feed!

index editorial . Gast ronomic cu l tu re : Popu lar f i e s tas Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil


FIESTA DEL AJOBLANCO (ALMÁCHAR)

This fiesta is celebrated in Almáchar, a village in Axarquía, on the firstSunday in September. Visitors are invited to taste ajoblanco, atraditional dish of Málaga's gastronomy prepared with almonds, garlic,vinegar and olive oil. This celebration is an ideal opportunity to tastethis delicious gazpacho and visit one of the most charming villages inMálaga's eastern region. On this occasion, Almáchar's streets areembellished with flowers and ornaments and the village becomes aliving ethnographic museum, a luxurious experience for those whowish to spend some time visiting quiet places and meeting kindpeople.

FIESTA DEL MOSTO Y LA CHACINA (COLMENAR)

Fiesta de la Matanza 29-04-03On the second Sunday in December, Colmenar, a village in the regionof Axarquía but which borders on Antequera, celebrates its traditionalFiesta del Mosto y la Chacina (Must and Cold Meats Fiesta), a fair oftraditional Colmenar products where you can taste must from themountains and tapas topped with cold meats, and buy homemadefoods elaborated with ancient recipes, such as goat cheese, olive oil,honey, black pudding, salchichón (a kind of spiced sausage similar tosalami), and many others. The fair is ideal to get hold of specialtraditional products to eat and drink at Christmas. Local pubs take partin the fiesta inviting guests to taste migas, chorizo, tripe, porra andpintxos.

Besides, there are several activities organised by the City Council,such as flamenco shows, street Moorish fandango and City Bandparades.

DÍA DEL ACEITE (PERIANA)

Día del Aceite 17-06-03On the last Sunday in March, at the end of the olive picking season,thousands of people visit Periana to participate in the Día del Aceite(Oil Day), a celebration organised by the Periana City Council, localshopkeepers and institutions, and the village's olive oil cooperatives.Visitors are invited to taste the magnificent extra virgin olive oilmanufactured in Axarquía, in a ideal region for its production. Alongwith olive oil, other traditional food products can also be bought: goatcheese, honey, sweets, sausages and cold meats.

index editorial . Gast ronomic cu l tu re : Popu lar f i e s tas Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil


OLIVE OIL MUSEUMS

HOJIBLANCA OIL MUSEUM (ANTEQUERA)

This is the only oil-based museum in the province of Málaga. It is locatednext to the headquarters of the Sociedad Cooperativa Olivarera Hojiblanca(Hojiblanca Oil Cooperative), on the road that links Antequera withCórdoba, to the left of A-92 motorway if coming from the city of Málaga.

The museum basically consists of three mills from different periods,exhibited in different rooms with relevant documents, utensils and farmingtools used to pick and press olives, and store and preserve olive oil.

The tour around the museum begins with a 17th century press, perhapsthe most interesting piece there, which reproduces a torn-down mill inevery detail and keeps some of the original components, such as thecellar's jars, the beam and the stone mill. The most striking feature is theton beam press, a gigantic crossbeam of pine and holm oak wood, 12.5metres in length and over 3 tons in weight, whose head is between two

logs where the beam is fixed, resting on aniche in the counterweight tower.

The cellar has been recreated with theoriginal jars, some of them signed by themasters of pottery who made them. Next tothem, there are different implements relatedto the world of oil: sieves, scales, oil lamps,and others.

Walking along a gallery displayinginformation boards on the extraction and

trade of oil in ancient times and mock-ups of different types of mills fromdifferent ages, visitors get to a room showing a 19th century press. It is acorner press, made of holm oak wood. The press used to turn round on thestraw mats where crushed olives were placed, and an inserted beampressed the mats. The whole mechanism was powered by millersthemselves.

The last press is a Roman mill, which dates back to the 1st century andwas found in a village near the museum. The pieces exhibited are apressing room (torcularium), a trujal (labrum, the reservoir where oil waskept after being obtained) and the counterweight stone. The woodenpress, which of course did not survive the passing of time, wasreconstructed. In the same site, olive stones, almost fossilised, were alsofound.

Not long ago, an oil presswas found at El Romeralvillage. It used to be partof one of the manyRoman villas thatflourished in the region ofAntequera from the 1st tothe 5th centuries. This isa unique archaeologicalfinding, and along with itthey unearthed some fragments of the typical paving of this period. Mostlikely, this press will be part of the Hojiblanca's Oil Museum's heritage.

In the gardens surrounding the museum, there are six olive trees morethan three hundred years old, which have been transplanted. Their knottytrunks are more than 1 meter in diameter.

index editorial . G a s t r o n o m i c c u l t u r e : M u s e u m s Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil


BOTANICAL GARDEN Even though the city of Málaga is not part of the typcial landscape hiddenbehind the mountains that is home to olive trees, the city boasts twospecimens that are worth seeing. One of them is very near the sea, in theport next to the port offices. The other is in the Botanical Garden: it is amagnificent olive tree, four hundred years old, transplanted from theAxarquía to a privileged space where several plants and trees coexist andare part of the tour "Trees Grown in Our Land". This "natural monument",then, is part of a system where many different floral species live together.

ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM (RIOGORDO)

Along with its peculiar handicrafts,homemade utensils and farmingtools, this museum has three mills: afoot press used to obtain wine, aflour mill where wheat was ground,and an oil mill. Together, they makea perfect summary of theMediterranean diet: oil, bread andwine.

The museum is located in a 17thcentury oil mill, a horse-drawn mill. Ithas a watermill and another 17thcentury corner mill with its masonrytower.

The walls show interesting oil-related documents, watercolours,lithographs, tinplate containers, andlate 19th and early 20th centurylabels for oil bottles.

The oil mill is next to the wine press,with its screw press and the terra-cotta jars where must was left toferment.

Going out and across the yard,visitors reach the flour mill, called SanAntonio. What is kept of it are thepulleys, the millstone, the sieves, andthe different tools and devices used togrind wheat.

The tour also includes a visit to themiller's house, one of those typicalhomes of Málaga's towns that keepfurniture and everyday objects thathave become traces of past times.



MUSEUM OF POPULAR TRADITIONS AND ARTS

This museum is located in what used to be one of the most central tavernsin the city of Málaga, El Mesón de la Victoria, where every day mule-drivers and traders came to sell and buy oil, cheese, fruit, wine and othercountry foods. Its pieces are a rich sample of ways of life and traditions thatare virtually extinct.

Apart from oil-related items, the museum houses two collections that mustbe seen: the Narciso Díaz de Escobar (1860-1935) archives and theMálaga earthenware.

The museum has several rooms divided in two floors. On the ground floor,there is a wine press and and oil mill, dating back to the 19th century andfound in a village whose premises were used to build the Limonero dam.Next to the mill, visitors can see the oil press with different weights, a sieveto clean olives and other tools used for the harvest and oil making process.

ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM (BENALAURÍA)

In the highest and mostcentral part of Benalauría, agreat town in the heart of theSerranía de Ronda, travellerscan visit the EthnographicMuseum. Local villagers, wholove old traditions and buriedways of life, have cherished avery old oil mill, from the 18thcentury, with all the tools thatnot long ago were still in use.

It was a horse-drawn mill, andwhen you see it, you canunderstand why: the riverflows down along the ravine,so there is no way to takeadvantage of its water.

Next to the mill, there is thebeam press, a huge, 12-metre long wooden sheet that used to weigh oncrushed olives. The tanks used for oil to settle and the stone mill havebeen kept. The collection is complemented with a wide range of farmingtools and equipment.



MIRAFLORES COUNTRY ESTATE AND MUSEUM (MARBELLA)

This museum is locatedin a building from theearly 18th century, whichused to be a farm and asugar mill. Now it hasbecome a placeexhibiting the details ofpast times with loads oftraditions.

The visit to the MirafloresCountry Estate andMuseum begins at thegardens, where guestsare welcome. There theycan find rare specimensof hundred-year-oldpalms and olive trees.Inside, there are roomsfor permanent paintingexhibitions and there isthe greatest attraction:

the old oil mill, the only one that is part of a museum but is also at work.Its machinery, which is in perfect condition, is set in motion on a regularbasis. The same room exhibits other oil-related objects, such as scales,jars and acidity metres.

The museum boasts a library, functioning where there used to be the barn,where visitors can read as much as they like about oil and oil-making.



HOW TO CHOOSE OLIVE OILThe times when olive oil was sold in grocer's shops indiscriminately, withoutinforming the costumer of its quality and properties, have long been finishedand forgotten. Things have changed, and now Málaga's olive oil comes insealed plastic, metal or glass containers that comply with regulations inforce. In spite of this, olive oils are not all the same, as was already made clearwhen discussing the different types of oil. So the first suggestion is thatyou should always buy extra virgin olive oil, which you can choose amongthe numerous excellent oils produced in Málaga's mills.

Secondly, you should read the label carefully, since it providesinformation on brand, class or category, acidity, bottling date, origin, olivevariety, and expiration date.

Before buying a bottle of extra virgin olive oil, you should know that itsdegree of acidity (i.e. how much oleic acid it contains) has to be higher than

0.2% and lower than or equal to 1%. This information is similar to the onefound on wine bottles, telling how much alcohol the wine contains.

The reason why extra virgin olive oil is to be preferred is that this is the onlytype of oil that keeps its original biological properties and organoleptic quality.

There is a proverb that goes, "Best is cheapest," and this applies to oil. If, trying tosave some pennies, you buy an inferior oil, you will run the risk of spoiling your salads,

stews or fried dishes. As in the case of wine, olive oils are not exactly the same every year, even when theycome from the same mill. Changing circumstances, especially weather conditions, canaffect the quality of the produce.

6. uSEFUL TIPS

HOW TO CHOOSE OLIVE OIL

WHERE TO BUY IT

HOW TO KEEP IT

HOW TO USE IT

index editorial . U s e f u l T i p s Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil


WHERE TO BUY ITThere are two ways to buy a good extra virgin olive oil. The more commonone is to go and get it at a grocer's shop. The shopkeeper will be able tohelp you if you do not know how to choose the right oil. You can also go tothe oil section at a supermarket or department store and pick the Málagaextra virgin olive oil of your choice. Make sure you read the label well. Thesecond way to find the right oil is the one recommended in this guide. Wesuggest you take one of the olive oil routes presented here and visit theplaces were olives are grown, and oil is extracted and stored with greatcare and love.

There are 74 mills in Málaga, and all of them sell olive oil directly tocustomers. In the region of the Axarquía (Mondrón, Comares, Vélez,Alfarnate, Valle Niza, Alcaucín, Periana, Riogordo, Sayalonga, Sedella,Cómpeta, Frigiliana, Canillas de Aceituno, Los Romanes), the oil,extracted from verdial olives, is so good that you can barely refrain fromtasting it.

In the region of Antequera, there is a mill in each and every village:Antequera, Alameda, Fuente Piedra, Villanueva de Algaida, Villanueva deTapia, Archidona, Cuevas Bajas, Cuevas de San Marcos, La Parrilla,Villanueva del Rosario and Villanueva del Trabuco, among others. Thebest olive oils in Andalusia are obtained from the hojiblanco, romerillo andmarteño cultivars planted here.

In the Guadalhorce mid and low valleys, olive oil is not that abundant, butthe oils produced in the area's villages, such as Teba, Ardales,Casarabonela, Almogía, Monda, Guaro, Ojén, and Alhaurín de la Torre,are among the finest in Spain. The same can be said about Ronda, anarea specialising in ecological synthetic oil. A new mill producing it has justbeen opened in Cuevas del Becerro.

HOW TO KEEP ITContrary to what happens with wine, ageing does not add quality to oliveoil. In fact, oil should be used within the year of its production, and this iswhy it is so important to pay attention to the expiration date specified onthe label.

Olive oil must be kept in a cool and dark place, in adequate containers,preferably airtight and made of glass. As it is a natural product and it isalive, it can be invaded by other smells. Thus, you should keep it inisolation or separated from other strong-smelling foods.



HOW TO USE ITThere are some rules to bear in mind when using olive oil in thekitchen. In the case of salads, here is the golden rule to seasonthem: let salt be added by a stingy man; vinegar by a wise man;and oil, by a madman. You should mind all of the salad'singredients, except olive oil, which must be added profligately. Foroil adds a natural taste to food, it is the finishing touch that youcannot miss!

Apart from seasoning salads, olive oil can also be used to frymeat, fish or vegetables. Unlike other fats, which are altered as aresult of heat, oil is highly stable and, as cooks like to say, it "goesa long way." When poured in the pan, oil rises to the challenge.

But both housewives and cooks know that, even though olive oilcan be used more than once to fry food, the oil used to fry fish andthe one used to fry meat must be kept in separate containers andreused with the same type of food. Otherwise, the result will be adisagreeable mix of smells and tastes.

Nowadays, when everybody is in such a hurry all the time,traditional cuisine, prepared with time and great care, is aluxurious need. So we recommend you and your family to have apleasant meal at home or at a restaurant and demand olive oil withyour dish. Small savings can lead to big losses when flavour andhealth are concerned.



GLOSSARYAceña (aceña): flour mill located on the river bank and powered by theriver's water.Alcuza (alcuza): terra-cotta or tinplate jar used to keep oil for differentpurposes.Alpechín (alpechín): dark water left by crushed and mill olives; it flowswith oil and is then separated by settling, since oil is lighter and floats inwater. Alperujo (alperujo): paste produced by mixing alpechín and orujo. Arroba (arroba): old units of weight equivalent to 11.5 kilos. Bale (fardo): light and large cloth placed under olive trees for olives to fallon it, so that picking them later is easier. Coupage oil (coupage): oil produced out of different varieties of olives. Dues (maquila): amount of grain, flour or oil given to the mill owner as atax for using his mill. Early picking (verdeo): early harvest of olives, when they are not fullyripe, to be seasoned and preserved for consumption purposes. Flavour ("flavor"): oil quality created by the combination of smell, tasteand texture. Horse-drawn press (molino de sangre): mill powered by the foce ofhorses that turn round an axis. Macaco (macaco): type of basket carried by olive-harvesters round theirnecks, where they put the hand-picked olives. Marrana (marrana): press axis under which the capachos are placed toextract oil from crushed olives. Mat (capacho): circle of straw were crushed olives are placed to pressthem.Mill (almazara): building or structure where oil is produced out of olives.Millrace (caz or cao): ditch to carry water from the upper part of the riverto the aceña or mill.

Oil lamp (candil): tool used to give light, with an oil container, a wick, anda stick and hook to hang.Pomace (orujo): solid remnant after milling olives, once the oil andalpechín have been removed. Rancid oil (aceite picado): oil that is past its expiration date, andtherefore tastes old and stale. Romana (romana): in some regions, place where one can buy olives totake them to the nearest mill to be processed. Sieve (zaranda): slanting device with wires that make a grate, used toclean olives off twigs and dirt before taking them to the mills. Soleras (soleras): olives that have fallen from the tree and have to bepicked from the soil. Talón (talón): tender shoot of the olive tree that will bear the olives in thefollowing harvest. To grind or mill (molturar): to crush the olives in a mill and extract the oil. To hand-pick, "milk" (ordeñar): to pick olives with one's hand, notmechanically. To knock down (varear): to hit the branches of olive trees with short orlong sticks to make olives come off. Trama (trama): flower of the olive tree. Trujal (trujal): small reservoir where oil is kept after extraction in mills. Turbios (turbios): thick substance sitting at the bottom of the oilreservoirs, which can be used to make soap. Vecero (vecero): olive tree that yields olives in alternating years.



TRAINSShort-distance trains depart from Málaga Airport and theRailway Station. There is a daily railway service that willsatisfy your transportation demands.

For further information, please call 902 24 02 02.

BUSESMálaga has a modern Bus Terminal where you will find all the

information you need regarding timetables or companiesoperating in all Málaga's districts.

The Bus Terminal is located in Paseo de los Tilos, s/n.

For further information, please call 95 235 00 61.

The following list includes bus companies departing from Málaga's BusTerminal reaching destinations in the different Olive Oil Routes we havereferred to in this guide:

. useful informationTRANSPORT

TRAINS

BUSES

TAXIS

CAR RENTALS

PARKING AREAS

TOURIST OFFICES

HEALTHCARE CENTRES

CURRENCY AND BANKING

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ALAMEDA:Automóviles Casado, S.A.Phone: 95 231 59 08

ALFARNATE:Automóviles Casado S.A.Phone: 95 231 59 08

ALFARNATEJO:Automóviles Casado S.A.Phone: 95 231 59 08

ALMÁCHAR:Autocares Valle Niza S.L.Phone: 95 254 27 84

ANTEQUERA:Automóviles Casado, S.A.Phone: 95 231 59 08

ARCHIDONA:Automóviles Casado, S.A.Phone: 95 231 59 08

ARDALES:Los Amarillos, S.L.Phone: 95 236 30 24

CARRATRACA:Los Amarillos, S.L.Phone: 95 236 30 24

CASABERMEJA:Autocares Mateo S.L.Phone: 95 273 01 46

CASARABONELA:Sierra de las Nieves, S.L.Phone: 95 235 54 90

COLMENAR:Automóviles Casado S.A.Phone: 95 231 59 08

COMARES:Alsina Graells Sur, S.A.Phone: 95 231 82 95

CÓMPETA:Ruiz y Avila, S.L. Phone: 95 254 11 13

EL BORGE:Autocares Valle Niza S.L.Phone: 95 254 27 84

FUENTE PIEDRA:Automóviles Casado, S.A.Phone: 95 231 59 08

HUMILLADERO:Automóviles Casado, S.A.Phone: 95 231 59 08

MÁLAGA CAPITAL:Empresa Municipal de Transporte.Phone: 95 235 00 61

MOCLINEJO:Autocares Valle Niza S.L. Phone: 95 254 27 84

MOLLINA:Automóviles Casado, S.A.Phone: 95 231 59 08

OLÍAS:Alsina Graells Sur, S.A. Phone: 95 231 82 95

PERIANA:Alsina Graells Sur, S.A.Phone: 95 231 82 95

RIOGORDO:Automóviles Casado S.A.Phone: 95 231 59 08Alsina Graells Sur, S.A.Phone: 95 231 82 95

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RONDA:Sierra de las Nieves, S.L.Phone: 95 235 54 90Los Amarillos, S.L. Phone: 95 236 30 24Corporación Española de Transportes, S.A. Phone: 902 143 144

TEBA:Automóviles Casado, S.A.Phone: 95 231 59 08

VÉLEZ MÁLAGA:Alsina Graells Sur, S.A.Phone: 95 231 82 95

VILLANUEVA DE ALGAIDA:Automóviles Casado, S.A.Phone: 95 231 59 08

VILLANUEVA DEL ROSARIO:Automóviles Casado, S.A.Phone: 95 231 59 08

VILLANUEVA DEL TRABUCO:Automóviles Casado, S.A.eléfono: 95 231 59 08

TAXISThere are taxi stands in most districts, buttaxis can be hailed on any street. Whentaxis are empty, they show a green light.You can also ask for a taxi over the phone.In the list below, you will find phonenumbers for most districts mentioned in thisguide.

ALAMEDA:Phone: 95 271 00 03

ALFARNATE:Phone: 61 988 84 74

ALMÁCHAR:Phone: 95 251 21 11

ANTEQUERA:Taxi RadioPhone: 95 284 55 30

ARCHIDONA:Phone: 95 271 43 81

BENAMOCARRA:Phone: 95 250 95 28

CARRATRACA:Phone: 95 245 80 41

95 245 80 2295 245 80 05

CASABERMEJA:Phone: 61 613 21 54

60 732 36 8465 049 99 76

CASARABONELA:Phone: 65 056 25 42

62 750 27 96 61 628 62 2964 922 73 56

COLMENAR:Phone: 65 899 60 14

60 952 51 8965 303 18 5460 732 36 8460 580 88 5466 958 00 7266 141 63 68

COMARES:Phone: 62 621 49 60

64 973 49 86

CÓMPETA:Phone: 95 251 61 99



HUMILLADERO:Phone: 95 273 70 96 - 71 89

MÁLAGA CAPITAL:UnitaxiPhone: 95 232 79 50; 95 233 33 33Taxi Unión Sociedad Cooperativa AndaluzaPhone: 95 234 59 48

PERIANA:Phone: 95 253 61 56-58

RIOGORDO:Phone: 95 273 22 11- 659 156 847

RONDA:Phone: 95 287 23 16

TORRE DEL MAR:Phone: 95 254 00 16

TORROX:Phone: 95 253 03 52

VÉLEZ MÁLAGA:Phone: 95 250 28 96

VILLANUEVA DE ALGAIDAS:Grupo de TaxisC/ Archidona, s/nPhone: 952 74 33 11 / 65 481 46 87

VILLANUEVA DEL ROSARIO:Phone: 95 274 20 96

VILLANUEVA DEL TRABUCO:Phone: 95 275 13 13

CAR RENTALS

MÁLAGA CITY:Autos Marinsa S.L.Avda. García Morato, 1829004 MálagaPhone: 95 223 23 04

Centauro Rent a Car, S.L.Avda. García Morato, s/n - Terminal, 229004 MálagaPhone: 95 217 74 50

Crown Car Hire (Invaral, S.A)Avda. García Morato, 329004 MálagaPhone: 95 224 67 18

Helle Hollis Car Rental.Avda. García Morato, 14-1629004 MálagaPhone: 95 224 55 44

Prima Rent a Car, S.L.Apdo. de Correos 1229080 MálagaPhone: 95 231 09 75

Crack Rent a Car (Baro Motor, S. L.)Avda. Velazquez, 1 y 329003 MálagaPhone: 95 234 26 14

Adversament Rent a Car, S.L.Azucarera Intelhorce, 66Pog. Indust. Guadalhorce29004 MálagaPhone: 902 18 20 28

Europcar, IB-S.A.Carril de San Isidro, 329004 MálagaPhone: 95 217 44 59

Avisedf. AvisCtra. Aeropuerto, Km. 0.529006 MálagaPhone: 95 223 88 42

Mocar Autorent, S.L.C/ Cuevas Bajas, 25 - 27Phone: 95 210 53 00



Niza Cars, S.L.Avda. García Morato, 4429004 MálagaPhone: 95 223 61 84

Automóviles PortilloAvda. de Velásquez, 94Phone: 95 224 73 13

Autocares AndalucíaCarril de la Serrería, 24Phone: 95 223 23 49

CargestAvda. García Morato, 3295 217 35 20

OTHER CAR RENTALSALHAURÍN DE LA TORRE:Limousines PremierUrb. Pinos de AlhaurínAlhaurín de la TorrePhone: 902 11 96 92

ESTEPONA:Benamara Car Rent, S.L.Crta. N.340 Km 167-Urb. Paraiso BarronalLocal 1º,Parcela 2, EsteponaPhone: 95 288 88 08

Espacar-Rent a CarAvda. Litoral s/nEsteponaPhone: 95 279 29 35

Haro Rent a CarUrb. El Pilar Km 166EsteponaPhone: 95 288 36 37

TORREMOLINOS:Autos BeneluxAvda. Carlota Alessandri, 204TorremolinosPhone: 95 238 57 12

Bravo Holiday Cars, S.LAvda. Manuel Fraga Iribarne, 25 Nave ETorremolinosPhone: 95 237 76 86

Caramba CarC/ Ramal-Hoyo, 7-70TorremolinosPhone: 95 237 65 17

Dragon Car HireC/ Poeta Salvador Rueda, 29FuengirolaPhone: 95 247 53 60

Sdad. Coop. Industrial AutoSolC/ Antonio de Nebrija, 37TorremolinosPhone: 95 238 02 95

PARKING AREASYou will find parking areas in all the villagesyou visit. Most districts have SARE (parkingspaces in the streets, signalled in blue on thepavement) and also parking sites for free onmost streets.

ALMÁCHAR:Paseo de la Axarquía is the only area you canpark your car.

ANTEQUERA:There are parking spaces in Diego Poncestreet, Fernández Viaga square, Lucena,Infante Don Fernando, Carretero, Encarnaciónand La Alameda streets, and Paseo de MaríaCristina.

BENAOJÁN:Parking spaces are available in San Marcosquare and also in the village's streets.



COMARES:Parking spaces are available in Balcón de laAxarquía square and Málaga Avenue.

CÓMPETA:There are parking spaces in Axarquía square.

MÁLAGA CITY:Parking areas: There are three municipalparking areas and also SARE parking spaces(signalled in blue on the pavement) in the oldquarter.Parking areas: Central parking area in De laMarina square, opposite the port; in Tejón yRodríguez street; and Alcazaba, in LaAlcazaba square.SARE: The SARE 30 signal indicates that youcan park your car on the blue lines for 30minutes. In central Málaga, they are located inDel Teatro square and Atarazanas street. TheSARE signal indicates you can park there up to90 minutes for 1.50 euros.

MOCLINEJO:You can par your car in Calvario street and inDe la Pasión avenue.

MOLLINA:Parking is allowed in every street in the village.

RONDA:There are different parking areas: Blas Infante,De la Merced square, Del Socorro square andLauría street.

TORROX:You can park your car in the Fair's area,Almanzor square and Cómpeta avenue.

VÉLEZ MÁLAGA:You can park your car in the so-calledPozancón area, in the public parking area nearthe City Hall, in the parking by San Antonio dePadua's Church, in Málaga lane and in theparking near the City Indoor Pool.

TOURIST OFFICESAll the villages in the province have touristoffices, where they will provide information onthe tourist attractions in the area.

ALAMEDA:Town HallPlaza de España, 5Phone: 95 271 00 25

ALFARNATE:Town HallPlaza de la Constitución, 1Phone: 95 275 90 28

ALFARNATEJO:Town HallC/ Feria, 2Phone: 95 275 92 86

ALMÁCHARMunicipal Tourist OfficeC/ Almería, 14Phone: 95 251 20 02

ANTEQUERA:Tourist OfficePlaza de San Sebastián, 7Phone: 95 270 25 05



ARCHIDONA:Municipal Tourist OfficePasaje Ochavada, 2Phone: 95 271 64 79

ARDALES:Municipal Tourist OfficeAvenida de Málaga s/nPhone: 95 245 80 46

BENAMOCARRA:Municipal Tourist OfficePlaza del Calvario, s/nPhone 95 253 56 12

CARRATRACA:Town HallC/ Glorieta, 2Phone: 95 245 80 16

CASABERMEJA:Tourist OfficePhone: 95 275 82 59

CASARABONELA:Tourist OfficeCalle Real, 5Phone: 95 245 60 67

COLMENAR:Town HallPlaza de España, 9Phone: 95 273 00 00

COMARES:Municipal Tourist OfficeC/ Real, s/nPhone: 95 250 93 13

CÓMPETA:Municipal Tourist OfficeAvda. Constitución s/nPhone: 95 255 36 85

EL BORGE:Town HallPlaza de la Constitución, 1Phone: 95 251 20 33

FUENTE PIEDRA:Tourist OfficeC/ Ancha, s/nPhone: 95 273 54 53

HUMILLADERO:Town HallAvda. del Emigrante, 1Phone: 95 273 70 23

MÁLAGA CAPITAL:Tourist Office(Govt. of Andalusia)Pasaje Chinitas, 4Phone: 95 221 34 45 / 95 260 61 93Municipal Tourist OfficePhone: 95 206 13 80Calle Echegaray, 2Málaga Airport Tourist Office(Govt. of Andalusia)Avda. García Morato, s/nPhone: 95 224 37 84Bus Terminal Municipal Tourist OfficePaseo de los Tilos, s/nPhone: 95 235 00 61

MOCLINEJO:Town HallPlaza de España, 7Phone: 95 240 05 86

MOLLINA:Town HallC/ Villa, 3Phone: 95 274 00 44



PERIANA:Town HallPlaza de Andalucía, 1Phone: 95 253 61 67

RIOGORDO:Town HallPlaza de la Constitución, 14Phone: 95 273 21 54

RONDA:Municipal Tourist OfficePlaza de España, 9Phone: 95 218 71 19

TEBA:Town HallPlaza de la Constitución, 13Phone: 95 274 80 20

TORROX COSTA:Municipal Tourist OfficeCentro Internacional, Bl. 79, bajoPhone: 95 253 02 25

VÉLEZ MÁLAGA:Municipal Tourist OfficeAvda. de Andalucía, 119Phone: 95 254 11 04

VILLANUEVA DE ALGAIDAS:Town HallC/ Constitución, 16Phone: 95 274 30 02

VILLANUEVA DEL ROSARIO:Town HallPlaza de España, 9Phone: 95 274 22 63

VILLANUEVA DEL TRABUCO:Town HallPlaza del Prado, 1Phone: 95 275 10 21

HEALTHCARE CENTRESIn any health or safety emergency, please call112, the toll-free European emergency phonenumber. The operator will transfer your call tothe relevant institution. This is a 24-hourservice and they speak Spanish, French andGerman. There are also healthcare centresthat will assist you in case of an emergency inall the districts included in the routes.

ALAMEDA:Healthcare CentreC/ Enmedio, 68Phone: 95 271 05 66 - 10 86

ALFARNATE:Healthcare CentreC/ Federico García Lorca, s/nPhone: 95 275 92 40

ALFARNATEJO:Physician's OfficeC/ Feria, 2Phone: 95 275 94 34

ALMÁCHAR:Physician's OfficePhone: 95 251 20 83C/ Real, s/n



ALMÁCHAR:Physician's OfficeC/ Eugenia RíosPhone: 95 251 20 83

ANTEQUERA:Antequera HospitalPhone: 95 106 16 00Outpatients' DepartmentPhone: 95 284 29 29

ARCHIDONA:Healthcare Centre C/ Camino del Santuario, s/nPhone: 95 271 45 50

ARDALES:Healthcare CentreC/ Real, 10Phone: 95 245 82 75

BENAMOCARRA:Healthcare CentreC/ Zarzuela, 4Phone: 95 250 95 79

CARRATRACA:Healthcare CentreC/ Carril, s/nPhone: 95 245 80 92

CASABERMEJA:Consultorio MédicoC/ Llanas, 4Phone: 95 275 82 59

CASARABONELA:Healthcare CentreAvenida Juan XXIII, s/nPhone: 95 245 65 59

COLMENAR:Healthcare Centre Ctra. de Riogordo, s/nPhone: 95 273 03 51

COMARES:Physician’s Office C/ Real, s/nPhone: 95 250 92 84

CÓMPETA:Healthcare Centre C/ San Antonio, 156Phone: 95 251 60 89

EL BORGE:Physician’s OfficeC/ República, s/nPhone: 95 251 20 75

FUENTE PIEDRA:Healthcare CentreCamino de la Estación, s/nPhone: 95 273 50 01

HUMILLADERO:Healthcare CentreC/ Capitán Velasco, 7Phone: 95 273 75 84

MOCLINEJO:Healthcare Centre C/ Castillo, 13Phone: 95 240 05 76

MOLLINA:Healthcare Centre Avenida El Limonar s/nPhone: 95 274 01 36

PERIANA:Healthcare CentreC/ Paseo Bellavista, s/nPhone: 95 253 61 76

RIOGORDO:Physician’s OfficeC/ Fátima, s/nPhone: 95 273 21 36



RONDA:"Santa Bárbara" Ronda-South HealthcareCentre C/ San Vicente de Paúl, s/nPhone: 95 106 56 23-24Ronda-North Healthcare CentreC/ Espinillos, s/nPhone: 95 287 69 75

TEBA:Physician’s OfficeC/ Nueva, 5Phone: 95 274 82 89

TORROX:Healthcare Centre C/ Calzada, s/nPhone: 95 253 86 01

VÉLEZ MÁLAGA:Vélez - Málaga Regional HospitalFinca El Tomillar, s/nPhone: 95 106 70 00Urgencias: 95 106 70 21

VILLANUEVA DE ALGAIDAS:Healthcare CentreC/ Las Flores, 1Phone: 95 274 34 90

VILLANUEVA DEL ROSARIO:Healthcare CentrePlaza Nueva del Saucedo, s/n Phone: 95 274 27 77

VILLANUEVA DEL TRABUCO:Healthcare CentreC/ Bernardo Caro, s/nPhone: 95 275 19 08

CURRENCY AND BANKINGThe Spanish unit of currency is the euro. Thereare a lot of Banks and Savings Banks whereyou will find ATMs that accept internationalcredit cards.

Banking hours: Mon-Sat, from 08:30 to 14:00,except for May, June, July, August andSeptember, when banks are closed onSaturdays. Savings Banks close at 14:15 andare closed on Saturdays.


· 2 Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil. WINE IN MÁLAGA. OLIVE OIL IN MÁLAGA. USEFUL INFORMATION...

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Transcript of · 2 Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil. WINE IN MÁLAGA. OLIVE OIL IN MÁLAGA. USEFUL INFORMATION...