1884 Expedition

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Somal and Galla Land; Embodying Information Collected by the Rev. Thomas WakefieldAuthor(s): E. G. Ravenstein and Thomas WakefieldSource: Proceedings of the Royal Geographical Society and Monthly Record of Geography,New Monthly Series, Vol. 6, No. 5 (May, 1884), pp. 255-273Published by: Blackwell Publishing on behalf of The Royal Geographical Society (with the

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25555OtIAL AND GALLA LAND.OtIAL AND GALLA LAND.it xvas beainning to disappeal, and slalrery was commencing. Two years after-wards the region was desolate. The Shooli tribe had for a lollg time defied theEgyptian Government, and had in fact now and a.gainmade raids on Khartumitself. Although the credit had been g;iven to Schweinfurth for discovering theWelle, Consul Petllerick made known its existence many years before. TheBahr-el-Ghasalregion was the commencementof the rising chalk countrysand alittle further outh mountainsoroppedup here and there belonging to the graniteand other formations. A line drawn strait,ht across in that region would be thebarrierwhich divides the Congo rom the Nile. Therefore he Welle must flow tothe north.The PRESIDENT,n conclusion, aid that what l:ladbeen read was a sufficientreply to those who believed there was no furtherwork to be done by geographicalexplorers. In the vast region betsveen he Niam Niam country alld the Congoandthe sources of the Benne on the one side, and in the land of the Gallas and theSomalis,wide tracts of unknown cotlntry still remained. The reading of LuptonBey's letters, which conveyedvividly the impressionof the moment, and were notthe less interesting ecause they were rlot arranged nto a formal paper,called tomind the fact that they were written within a few days of the disasterwhich over-took Hicks and his artny. The knowledgeof that circumstancemust make everyone look forwardwith ansious interest for the next news of such a gallant andenterprising traveller, who, if his life be spared, will undoubtedly make knownregionswhich at present were the objects of eagercuriosity. The country throughwhich the Aruwimi and the AVelle low is the very part which Mr. H. H. Johnstonhad proposed o visit beforehe decidedto go to Mount Kilimanjaro,his intentionhavi:n been to leclve he Congoat its northernbend and make his way across o thewaters of the Wile. In so doing he would probablynave settled the question of thedirectionof the Welle. He had, however,been naturally deterredby the disturbedstate of the Soudan, which made that portion of it inaccessible at present toEtlropcan rasellers.

fiSoenalnd GallaLand; embodyzngnfortion collectedytheRezv. hornasWakefield.$By E. GE.&y;sNSTE.

(Read at the Evening Meeting,March10th, 1884.)SINCE he labours of Livingstone alld Stanle;y,and of their successors,have revealed to us the broad outlines of the geography of Southern:13quatorialAfrica, there exists no region in that continent equal ine:xtent or richer in promlse of reward to a bold explorer than the coun-tries of the Somal and Galla- Stretching away for 1200 miles fromCape Guardafui into ths basin of the Upper Nile, we are acquainted asyet with hardly more than its fringe, es:cept immediately to the sout:hofAbyssi:nia,where a broad wedge has been driven right into its centre.Our maps of the greater part of this region are still based upon frag-

* Vzde he R.GE.S.Map of Eastern EquatorialAfrica, by Rave:ustein,heets 3-6and 9-1L

it xvas beainning to disappeal, and slalrery was commencing. Two years after-wards the region was desolate. The Shooli tribe had for a lollg time defied theEgyptian Government, and had in fact now and a.gainmade raids on Khartumitself. Although the credit had been g;iven to Schweinfurth for discovering theWelle, Consul Petllerick made known its existence many years before. TheBahr-el-Ghasalregion was the commencementof the rising chalk countrysand alittle further outh mountainsoroppedup here and there belonging to the graniteand other formations. A line drawn strait,ht across in that region would be thebarrierwhich divides the Congo rom the Nile. Therefore he Welle must flow tothe north.The PRESIDENT,n conclusion, aid that what l:ladbeen read was a sufficientreply to those who believed there was no furtherwork to be done by geographicalexplorers. In the vast region betsveen he Niam Niam country alld the Congoandthe sources of the Benne on the one side, and in the land of the Gallas and theSomalis,wide tracts of unknown cotlntry still remained. The reading of LuptonBey's letters, which conveyedvividly the impressionof the moment, and were notthe less interesting ecause they were rlot arranged nto a formal paper,called tomind the fact that they were written within a few days of the disasterwhich over-took Hicks and his artny. The knowledgeof that circumstancemust make everyone look forwardwith ansious interest for the next news of such a gallant andenterprising traveller, who, if his life be spared, will undoubtedly make knownregionswhich at present were the objects of eagercuriosity. The country throughwhich the Aruwimi and the AVelle low is the very part which Mr. H. H. Johnstonhad proposed o visit beforehe decidedto go to Mount Kilimanjaro,his intentionhavi:n been to leclve he Congoat its northernbend and make his way across o thewaters of the Wile. In so doing he would probablynave settled the question of thedirectionof the Welle. He had, however,been naturally deterredby the disturbedstate of the Soudan, which made that portion of it inaccessible at present toEtlropcan rasellers.

fiSoenalnd GallaLand; embodyzngnfortion collectedytheRezv. hornasWakefield.$By E. GE.&y;sNSTE.

(Read at the Evening Meeting,March10th, 1884.)SINCE he labours of Livingstone alld Stanle;y,and of their successors,have revealed to us the broad outlines of the geography of Southern:13quatorialAfrica, there exists no region in that continent equal ine:xtent or richer in promlse of reward to a bold explorer than the coun-tries of the Somal and Galla- Stretching away for 1200 miles fromCape Guardafui into ths basin of the Upper Nile, we are acquainted asyet with hardly more than its fringe, es:cept immediately to the sout:hofAbyssi:nia,where a broad wedge has been driven right into its centre.Our maps of the greater part of this region are still based upon frag-

* Vzde he R.GE.S.Map of Eastern EquatorialAfrica, by Rave:ustein,heets 3-6and 9-1L


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256 SOMALAND GALLALAND.melltarynative inforluation, nd he mrould e a bold manwho assertedthat he possesseda definite knowledgeof even its most elementaryhydrographicaleatures.Vainly do we look to the ancients or to tlle Arabs for definiteinformation especting he interiorof these erritories, nd althoughFraMauro, n his map of the world (1457)has given us a pictureof Abys-sinia, surprisingly correct as to certain details, thollgh fearfullyexaggerativewith respect o distallces, nd even indicates riverXibe,which in its lower courseassumes he nameof Galla,and*finally indsits way into an arnl of the Indian Ocean,ag,ainstwhich is written theword" Diab," t is only since the Portut,uese,n their victoriouscareerround Africa, extellded their researches nland into the countly ofPrester John, that our geographicalknowledge assumes a definiteshape. As early as 152S, Jorge d'Abreu,one of the gentlemenattached to the mission of Don Rodrit,ode Lilua, acconlpanied nAbyssinian lmy into Adea. He is the first Europeanmhostoodon theshoreof Lake Zuway,and up to within the last few years,the only one.Subsequently1613) Antonio Fernandez ainly tried to make his waythrough the Galla coulltries to the Indian Ocean,and although hefailed in his main object,he yet visited Kalnbate nd Alaba,countrieswhich no Europeanhas beheld since. A fervyears after him, in 1624,Ewatherobowalked romPata to the Inouthof tlle Jub in searchof aninlanclroute to Abyssinia. He too failed; but the namesof the twelvetribes, throughwhose erritories e was told his routewould lead,havekept their place on our maps domll to the bet,imlingof the presentcentury,and this represented early all we knelvwith respect o it.It may with truth be stated that the map of AbyssiniapublishedbyTellez, s a geographicalmonumentwhich does credit to the enterpriseandcapacity f these earlyPortut,uese xplorers. And f, during he lasttwo centuries,Portugal, exhaustedby e:Sortsquite out of proportionto the numberof her children,has allowed the sta,:,eof geographicalexplorationalmost to be monopolised y others, it is all the moregratifying to find that in these latter days she llas once more sentexplorers nto the field,^7hose clentificaccoulplishmentsre quite ona par with those of othernations.Until far into the nineteenthcenturyour knowzledgef the countries-underreviewcan hardlybe said to have increased, nd when the workof explorationwas resumed,t was Englishmenwho stood in the san.Whilst Lieut. Carlessand other officers f the Indian Navy were busysurveyinO he coust,ColonelRigby,then on service at Aden,collecteduseful nformation n the interior,and first wrotean outlinegrammar fthe Somal anguage. Lieut.Christopher, owever,Mas the first to makeimportantdiscoveries1843), orduring hreetrips inland,*om Barawa,Merka,and Mokhdesho Magadoso),he came upon the lower courseof the V\Tebi habeela,whichhe named he I-Iaines iver. M. Guillain,


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7OMAL AND GALLA LAND.whose took on Eastern Africa will alwals maintain its place amonggeographical standardworks?visited the salne river in 1847, anddeterminedhe latitude of Geledi.* M. Leon des Avanchers, lthotlghhe madeno excursionsnto the interior,yet greatly extendedour knoxv-ledge by careful inquiries among traw-elled atives?and it is to beregretted hat only a mereoutline of his itinerariesshould have beer:ublished. In 1865Baron on der Deekellachieved great successbyascendingthe Jub to beyondBardera, nd if the explorerhimself lostllis life irl this enterprise,t is some consolation o us that the resultsof his work have been saved. The Jub has since been ascended or aconsiderable istanceby ColonelLon(t?who was attaclled o Admiral3'IcRillopp'squadron,despatched o the east coast of Africa, at theillstigationof GordonPasha,with orders o take possession f a suitablepoint whence overlandcomlnunication ight be establishedwith theEgyptian stationson the IJpperNile.In Northern Somal Land, Lieut. Cruttenden s entitled to thecreditof having first penetrated nto the interiorof the country, or Mr.R. Stuart,whomSalt despatchedo Zeylawith instructionso proceed oHarar, rtever eft the coast; whilst Lieut. Barker,who endeavouredto reach that point from Shoa in 1842, failed in his e:aterprise. Mr.Cruttendenookeddown rom he sutnmit f the Airansiduponthe broadvale of the Tok :Daror, r " river of mist " (1848). Captain Spekee:xtendedhese explorations is years afterwards;and CaptainBurton,in 185S,achievedoneof those riumphswhich t is given to few travellersto achieve. :He reached Harar, the old capital of Adea, the firstEuropeanxvhodid so, althoughthat town lies within a few marchesfromthe coast,and was knownby report o the old Portuguese. Amongsore recent explorerswe may mention Heuglin (1857),whose excur-sions inland have not, however,been of any extent; Captain S. B.Miles (1871), who explored the Wadi Jail, to the south of CapeGFuardafui1871); Hildebrand 1873), the botanist,who ascended hoYafirPass; Haggenmacher1874),who pushedhis way far inlandto thevery borderof far-famedOgaden;Graves (1879), who explored thewicinity of Cape Guardafui;and last, not least, M. Revoil (1878-81)who, during hree successive xpeditions hroughNorth-easternSomalLand,did perhaps s much00rorks all llis predecessorsaken together.Tn he meantimeHararhad been occupied, n 1876,by an Egyptianforce colnmanded y Rauf Pasha, and almost immediatelyhecalneafocus of attraction to explorersand merchants,not, however,beforeGeneralGordon,during a flying visit to the place, had deposed he

* Geledi, ll WI.Guillain'sboolr, s placed n 2? 6' N., but this appearin? o lne to bea misprint or 2? 16' N., I requestedCaptainLannoyde Bissy to try and obtaina look atthe original records. These have unfortunately een de3troyed. The map, howes-ervery clearlyplacesGeledi in 2? 16' N*, and Captainde Lannoywrites: '; La carte queja,i caRqueeembledo er raisona votre assertion- 3e VQS l'envoie avec la latitude;leMagado:;;oeterl:nineear le3 officiersdu lVucouedie."No. V. AY 1884.] U


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258 SOBlALND GALI.ALAND.Egyptianasha,just as he had donefouryears previously wllerlhe foundhimnstalled on the Upper Nile. GLiulietti,he same who was subse-quentlymurdered n the Afar country, provided us with a good

map ofhis oute from Zeyla (1879), and Father Taurin, already favourablyknownhrough his work in Abyssinia, gave us an insight into the Gallacountryo the west of Harar (1880). Gaptain Cecchi,on his returnfromhe coast, turned out of his way to pa,y a visit to Harar, anddeterrainedts latitude (1882). All eSorts, however, to penetrate fromHararnto the interior have, vvith one sing,le exception, ended dis-astrouslJr.hI. Luceran,a scientific explorer in the service of the FrenchMinistryof Education, was murdered by the Galla, when he hadsca.rcelyeft that place, in 1881. Sacconi, who proposed to visit t.heOgadenountry,met with the same fate when about twenty days'marchtohe south or south-east of that town (Sth Au^,ust,1883); and LazzaroPanajosi, Greek, shared the same fate soon afterwards. M. Rimbaud,however, gentleman in the service of Messrs.Mazeran,Bardet and Co.,is reported to have returned irl safet;y from a trading trip into thecountryof the Ogaden.Contilluing oursurvey of the bordersof the Galla Land in a westerlydirection,we reach Shoa and Abyssinia, where in the course of threecentusies he Galla have obtained a footirlg,but where they have largelyadoptedthe language and the customs of the more higllly civilisedpeoplewhose territories they invaded. Taking the Hawash and theAbaias the natural boundariesof Galla Land in the north, we find thatthe number of modern travellers who have overstepped that line is asyet far from considerable. On the other hand, many of those who con-:fined hemselves to Abyssinia and Shoa, and moreespecially Dr. Beke,M. Bochet d'Hericourt, and Dr. lirapf, have collected information onthese southerncountries,which in our present state of knowledge provesstill highly acceptable.Lieut. Lefebvre was the first European who in moderndays (1843)crossed the Hawash into the country of the Soddo Galla. He wassucceeded in 1879 by Signor Bianchi, the first of modern Europeanswho furnished an account of Gurage from personal knowledge. Sincethen Chiarini and Cecchi have travelled froln Shoa through the Gallacountries as far as KaSa. The formel died at Ghera from the cruelhardships which he was made to suffer,but Captain Cecchi was able toretuln to Europe with a rich storetof solid information. Since thiserlterprisingand arduousexpedition King John and his Viceroy Menelikof Shoa have e.stended theit sway to the south as far as iliafEa;and thefirst European to avail himself of the facilities for travel thus aSordedhas been hI. Soleillet, who visited :CafEan 1882.The region ilumediately to the south of Abyssinia proper,with itsloold mountains, deep valleys, and very lllised population, was firstexplored in a scientific spirit by BI.A. d'Abbadie,who visited Bonga in


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SOMALAND GALLA LAND. 259:liaSan 1840,and racedhe Gibbe o its sourceduringasecond xpeditionin 1846. Someusefulinformationwas ikewisecollectedb;y he RomanGatholicmissionaries,Massajaand I.eon des Avanchers, he latter ofwhomdiedatGhera n 1879,afteraresidencextendingoveranany ears.More recent still than either of these expeditions is that of theGerman,Dr.Stecker, he first to visit LakeZuway ince1525. The lastexplorerwhosenamewe have to mention s J. M.Schuver,whoserecentmurder n the Deekacountryhas cut shorta career f greatperformanceduringthe past,and muchpromise orthe future. He wasthe first andis still the only Europeanwho haspenetrated o the LegaGalla, n theextrernenorth-west of the vast Galla Land. Dr. Emin Bey, theGovernor f the EquatorialProvince,ntended o visit the Galla tribeslying to the east of the territoriesover which he so wiselyand success-fully rules; but recelltevents havewreckedhis plans. I may mentionparentheticallythat the Lango, on the Upper Wile, are generallydescribed s Galla; andthat Dr.Etnin, n one of his communicationsothe Journal of the GermanEthnographicalSociety,states that theyare of the same race as the Latuka. If this is so, then the Langocannot be Galla,for an examinatiollof his vocabularies f the Latukalanguageshows that these,at all events,are DIasai. IIencearises thefurther questionas to the nationalityof the Wa-huma,whohave givenrulers oU-nyoroandU-ganda, ndarenet withas herdsmenartowardsLakeTanganyika.In this rapidsurveyof the progressof geographical xplorationwehavementionedhe namesof a largenumber f travellers f meritXut aglance at the Society'smap of EqllatorialAfrica, upon which theirroutesare laid down,showsthat the districtsexploredby them are stillvery limited in extent, f we comparehem with the regions nto whichup till now no Europeanhas set his foot. Underthese circumstancescorapilers f mapsare still dependento a verylarge extentuponnativeinformation. Indeed, one whole sheet of the map just referred o,elnbracingan area of 90,000geographical quaremiles, is exclusierelybasedupon mperfectnformation f that kind,andseveralother heetsofthe maparealmost n the samecondition.Amongstearlier ravellers o whomwe aremost argely ndebted orinformation f this class are Cruttenden,Christopher, eke,d'Abbadie,Guillain,andLeondesAvanchers. Tothesehonoured ames nowwishto add that of the Rev.ThomasWakefield,whohas laboured edulouslyon the East Coast since 186S, and has allowed no opportunity orobtaining information n the Gallacountries o escapehim. Beforehis return o EasternAfrica n 1883, hatgentlemanplaced n snyhandsa largevolumeof manuscript otes,andfrom heseI haveculledall suchinformations appearedo me to be of interestto geographers.

The Country of zhe liawiyah Sornal. It will be m()stconvenient for futurereference f we arrangeMr.Wakefield'sinformationaccording o the geot,raphical


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260 SO3IALAND GALL.4 LAND.districtswith which t deals. The country f the Hawiyah,which estends fromMokhdesholong he coast as faras H6pia,has hithertobeen most inadaquatelydelineatedn ourmaps. Mr.NVakefields the first o supplymaterialsor ndicatincrsomeof its moreprominenteatures. It is to all appearance cotlIltry f whitesands,producinxcantypasture, nd aSording nly n a few ocalities soil suffi-cientlyrich or agriculturaltlrposes,r for he growth f timber. Game s absent;lionsor leopards re never een; andeventhe hyena s very scarce. Theprincipaltribesare the Abgal (including he royal clan of A1Takub, he AVa tzk, the A1Erli or "pot-bellies,"he Arti (Herti), he Yusuf and the Galmaha,n the south-west; the MoroSathe n the celltre, nd heAbrGithirr HabrGader)n the north-east. Hopia ies within he country f these atter. It is merely smallport,nearwhichgoodwaterand iluber ref()vlnd.Amber s sometimeshro^nup thereonthe coast. Sarur, locality n the interior, ppearso be oneof the more avollredspots,and the Abgal, who live there in small villages,cultivatemillet, kunde,beans,water-melons,ndcottorl, ndkeep amels, attle, heep ndgoats, tltneitherhorsesnorasses. Thehome-arownotton s spun by them,andwoven nto coarsetobasfor the men, the womencontentinghemselveswith goatslsins. Therearenative smiths,btlt they are capable nly of doingrepairs. Tobacco, griculturalimplements,ndthe calico n which the womenwrap he head,are importedromMokhdesho.Thesearticles reveryexpensive,or camel s ,,iven ornineor tenyardsof tobacco, nd a goatfora yardof blue cottonstuff. Slanrerys said o beunknown mong his tribe.TheMoro athe, n the centre f the country, retheMurrusadef Guillain ndthe EmorZaidiof old authors. Theycultivate he sameproducts s their neith-botlrs. They ikewisekeepno horses. TheAbt,al, inally, rethe tribewith nThomEuropeansome nto contact t Mokhdesho.The Webi Shabeela r Zaines River. The WVebihabeela r Hainesriver, sapparentlyhe onlyperennial iverof the Somalcountry. There an be no doubtthat someof its head-streamsise near he city of Harar, ut we areunable o saywhetherhe AVaira,ecently iscoveredy Chiarini,s oneof its tributaries,r findsits way into the Jub. The accountswhichMr.Wakefield eceived s to its sourceare most conflicting,nd quite irreconcilable ith the topot,raphyf the countryaroundHarar,uch as it has been describedo us by M. Taurinand other rust-worthyEuropean ravellers. One of his informants,Adamubin Mahamud, nOgaden omal,has embodied is ideas n a map,of whichwe give a copy,as acurious pecimen f nativecartography.Accordingo this native raveller, homMr.Wakefield escribessa man between ifty-five nd sisty yearsof age,of milddisposition,ndapparentlyntelligent,he rivercomes roma country alledKaranby the Somaland Bisan Gudda "much water") by the Galla. The rvesternsection f this region s a plain, looded urinCoul months f the year,andcoveredwith pools mbeddedn reddish oil durillChe remainder.The riverof Karan,which lows hrough his country, as been traced or six days upwards. It is aswiftstream, stone's hrow crosswhen in flood,but dry during he greater artof the year. The eastern ection f Karan s stony, with ruaged ocksscatteredover ts surface. There resevenhollows, bout300 feetacross,which during artof the yearare illedwith rain-water.The GojanGalla ive to the westof Kartin,theGeriE6mbeorKavlalalawo days o the north-eastf it, ar.d he Ogaden omalto the east. Thepathvfhich eads romSdrren OCadeno the Gtibben ore n theIdurcountry asses etxveenhe eastern ndwestern ections f Karan.To the south-west f Karan he river,divided nto two main branches,lowsrounda lofty conicalmainland, iven by frightful hasms, nd calledBIat,hugha.Beyond,t is oDcemoregathered p in a lake, BilekaMaabugha,learly }lewhole


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SOBIALAND GALLA L.t5D. 261of which driestlp in very hot seasons. There are fish in this lake, andvast flocksof birds lsesort o it, but neither crocodilesnor hippopotamiare follnd. The riverwhich leavesthis lake is knownas the A5TebihabeeIa, r Webi Athari, thus namedafterAthari (Adari),a larte town, which is cvidentlyHarar. It receivesnumeroustriisutaries,ncludingthe Unka, the swiftHiblau or "cleanriver," he red-colouredltrawln or " much soil,"and the Kiliwlll or "big trench" from the east, and the

Khaloduor "crooked ri+7er,"he Dabaderior "lon>-tailed river,"the Durka orDaremale,and the Habwln (" muchdebris") from the west. Of these rivers,theDvirlia(" from afar"), or Daremale, thus nanwed fter a grassmuch relishedbycattle,is the most important. It has beentracedfora month without reachinOhesource, s up to 100 feet in depth,and 300 feet wide,and its bed cuts through thered surface soil into the white urlderlyinC ocli. Its Bater is "red like blood.sX


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262 SOMALAND GALLALAND.Treesare floateddown by it. Fish abound,but neithercrocodilesnor hippopotamiare fotlnd in it. The Durka forms a delta, the minor arm of which is linown asLama Bar, the " two palms." The Durka, notwithstanding ts great size, dries upin very hot seasons,as does the Webi Shab&elatself.The Webi Shabeela lows throllghthe collntryof the Khota and Humbeni Galla.The formerare great aariculturists.* The millet which they grow attains the thick-ness of a man'sarm. It takes ten months to ripen,and is then stored in granariesraised on poles. Both men and women xrork in the fields. A simple plouCh,drawn by camels or bullocks, s in use. Tobes of lemaleloth are worn by bothseses, and the women plait their hail, and allow the tresses to hanCdown.The Humbeni are a numerous people. They have more goat3 than any othertribe, besides horses,asses, camels, cattle, and sheep. They do not till the soil,but purchase he corn they require from the Khota or at Athari (Harar), which istwo days distant. The soil Winheir country is of a reddishhue, and grass rowsluxuriantly. Their dwellinCsare circular, rom five to {en yards in diameter,andprovidedwith neither windows nor doors. The roof is almost flat, and althout,hlarge quantities of straw are piled upon it, it leaks badly during the rainy seasonThe interior s divided nto three compartments, f which the largest s assiCneel ostranCers, nd has stalls for horses n the corners,whilst the smaller compartmentsare the sleeping places of parentsand childrenrespectively. The OCaden re theenemies of the liumbeni, as of all other Galla, the Bworana and Dadban aloneexcepted.Umari bin Daud, an Abaal Somal, states that the NVebi habeelarises in a lakewhich lies at the foot of a mountain in the countryof the Arusia Galla. Tl-llsmountain s visible from Athari (Harar) and lies three to four days'journey to thcwest of Ben. According o Umari,a traveller eaving Athari for he south reaches hecountry of the Khote on the first day, that of the IIumbo (Humbeni?) on thesecond, and a camp of Bartlra Galla on the third day. One day beyond the latterhe arrilres t lien, describedas a considerable own of Somal, who live on friendlyterms with their neighbours, he Arusia or Arotosi. One clay further still he reachesa camp of the Arusia, near the Wdbi Shabeela, and thence as far as Ime hetravels throuh the territoryof that tribe, always keeping by the side of tlle river.Ime is a place of some importance,already klloxvnto us throuah d'Ableadieand Guillain. It is inhabited by freed slaves, who ,rolv millet, wheat, and cotton,keep horses,cattle, sheep, and goats, and weavecotton cloth. They are black, Witinegro features. In time of danCer hey fly to the G6tana or cliff of Ime, to thewest of their settlements. Tllis mass of lock is said to be a mile acrossand twicethe height of the old castle at Mombasa. One day's journey below Ime is thedistrict of the Karanle Somal, with several importaUntettlements,where the riverrolls between htzge blocks of rock, leaving, however, a passage in the middle fora boat to pass tllrourh. A large rivel is said to enter the WVebirom the north-west, three hours to the northof Ime.Six roads are said to convergeupon Ime, viz. the Jiduelaior " big road" whichleads in a north-easterly irection nto the countryof the Gelemies; the Hablr road,which goes east into the country of the E!lam Somal, repllted for their piety andhigh uloral standard; ths Dedbane or " road of the plain" which comes fromHarar; a road from the same place whivh follows the NVebi habeela; and a muchfrequentedpath which conductsus to the country of the .&r60sa.Mr. NVakefield'snformants are unanimous in eassertin(that the AVebialJorre

* lLqbttomeans ' ploughman " in Galla.t Dadban or Dedbane, " dweller iIl plain."


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SOMALNDGALLAAND. 263Ime is a mereperiodicaliver,whichdries up in the hot season,and harboursneither rocodilesorhippopotami.

BelowKaranle he rierers of considerClbleizethroughouthe year,butowinCto the strength f its currelltt is notnavigatedorcommercialurposes,ndwhenit is in floodeven the hippopotamusuntersof Ime, who are reputed or theirdaring, o not venttlre o launchtheirboats. The ferry-boats, hich are fourldat most of thevilla(res,rehaxlled verby a ropemadeof twistedcreepers.Thebanks f theriverare ow,and heSomal,half-breeds,ndfreed laves,who nhabitthem,are husable o irrigateheir ieldsby meansof canals. Wood s said o beplentiful, ndas llo rapidsare said c exist,Mr. Vakefieldut?gestshat it mightbe possible o ascend he river in a small steamer f srlfficientorse-powver.nits lowercourseheriver s said o divide nto several rn:ls,nclosina arge slandsbetween hem,and inally o lose tself n a lake,the size ofwhichvariesaccordingto the season. The Somalcall this lalie Biyowlaor "greatwater," he TuniBahrwen, hich meansthe same thing, he Galla accordingo Erapf)Balli,or"pool." In thelowerpartof the river hereare a few shallow laceswhereboatscanbe punted cross.Theroad o Barawaollows he rightbaulv f the riveras faras Shakala,whareit strikesofE orthe coast.Themorenterest;ngistrictson this part of the riverareShabeela rShabele(4'leopards'), pparently ery populous, nd inhabitedby pagans, and Shidla(" stoneless"),which s inhabitedby half-breeds,peakin(romal. l'heyarealsoknownas JitalMoCi, whichmearks thatthey may "ignore hedry season,"s theyareable o irrigateheirSeldsofmillet,beans, esamunl,ndiarl orn,andcottonbymeansof canals erivedrom he river.The nhabitants f thisfavouredeCionreMahommedans,nd they arereputedfor heircruelty. Theyarearmedwith bows andarrows, ndspears. Theyhuntthehippopotamus,ndeatits fleshwhichpereSomal le,vero. Theyalso ishwithhookand ine,anda}sousewicker-workrapssimilar o "crab-pots."Onlya fewgoatsarekeptby them. llaghalleappearso be theprincipaloxvnn thecountry.Thechiefplaceson thelowerWSebi re G4ledi,he residencef EammadYusuf,the chief of all the Sab,which consistsof threetowns - Geledi,E1Ghode, ndMardri;Golwen;Anoele,he chief ownof theGonou ornal;andShakale,wheretheroad orBarawaUeaves he river.TAwe [atla o tAleTfist of the IJp?erXeb. Five gleat tribesof Gallaappearooccupy hecountry o the vwest f the ZVebi, esides omerninor nes. Thegreattribes re heA1a, heAnia,and heAroosi,Arusi, rArusia,n thenorbh; heGerlre,in the centre o the west of Ime; andthe Aroosan the south,as faras the Jub,which separatesheln fromthe Bworana. rl'heminor ribesmentioned y Mr.Wakefield re he Altu,Gure,Panigal, ndJxinti.The so-called edbaneoad rom}Sarar rosses he country f several f these.A few hours' ourney romHararbringsus into the country f the A1a,who arecalledDebeleor "tail-wearersby theirSomalneighbours,ndwhohaverecentlybeenvisitedbyM. Taur;n.Nextto themdwell heinia, orL6shll, s the Somal allthem. A riverMunorMAdhalelows hrough heircountry, nd he route ollowsit for abcouple of days. It is a considerable iver after rains, but LLearlydries llp in the hot season,and neithercrocodilesr hippopotami refound nit. Several f the detached ills in theAniacountry reusedaswatch-towers,ndfiresare lit uponthem on the approach f OCadenrozn he east, Ala fromthenorth-east, uda rom hewest,or Gurrerom hesouth. TheAniaarea poor ribeapparently,orthe men arecontentwith a piece of cottonstufE hrownover heshoulders, hilst heirwomendress n goat31Kins.


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264 SO}IAL AND GALLA LAN'D.The iltu, who occupya plain estending westward o the foot of lofty nlountainsyare said to be powerftll, and rich in kine, asses, horses, canaels,sheep, and goats.They cultivate a little wheat. The Gure, to the south of them, are a mixture ofGalla and Ogaden. They are a peaceablepeople. The GaxveleJ ho formerly ivedaround he GubbenDorl (see Itinerary)whence they were drir7ell y the Idur Sonlaleare a purely pastoral people on the bordersof Ogaden; beyond them live the ReIlle, who are lvarlike, and cultivate the fan-palm, or the sake of the fruit it bears.Of the powerful tribe of the Aroosi or Arusi, which extends northward o theHawash and westward o the Zuway Lake, and occupiesperhaps he region ormerlyknown as Bali,* Mr. Wakefield tells us nothin, but he mentions the Panigal andthe Janti, who live in the same region.The Paniaal, calledPani by the Somal, ive to the west of the Re Ille and north ofthe Aroosa,who are their enemies. Their country s described s a plain coveredwith

lusuriant grass,and intersectedby a few rivulets, taking an easterly course. Thereare also some small lakes which never dry up. The climate is lvet and cold, andrain is stated to fall every day (?). They are powerfu], ich in cattle, horses, mules,asses, sheep, and boats,but without camels,as theircountr- does not yield foodsuitedto these animals. They are said to have been first amon the Galla to embraceIslam, and the tomb of Sheikh Huseyn, their apostle, forms the principalobjectofinterest in their country. Huseyn was a Somal from Harar,which he left for theavowedpurpose of converting all Galla Land. The Debeli (Ala), whom he visitedfirst, rejectedhis teaching; the Umbenho ?), Ania, Alu, and Gawele ?) declined tolisten to him, whilst the Re Ille, after having attended to his teachings ora time,soon fell back into thoir old paaanism. It was only when he cameamong he Panigalthat he met with a more propitious soil, and he consequently ettled among them,gathering;disciples around him, and sendincr orth apostles to the neighbouringBworana, Gerire,and Aroosia. He translated the Koran, and that holy volume snow read to the Galla in their own languaCe. But althotlCh ne-half of the Panigalare still heathen, the memory of Sheiiih Huseyn is llighly reveredamong all. Outof love for him Somal visitors are treated with unusual kindness, and when theyleave the countrythey are t,iven a mule or ivory. As a result of these friendlyrelations many Sonzalhave settled down amona the Panigal, whose languageandcustoms they have adopted. Sheikh Huseyn's tomb is guardedwith much care.The saint lies buried beneatha sarcophagusmade of rudely shaped slabs of stoneabout 6 feet in length and 42 feet in height. A circular hut, about 50 feet indiameter,has been built over the sarcophagus. Its side walls, about 30 inches inheight, are made of posts and stone, its roof is thatched. WYomennd childrenareforbidden o enter this hut, bllt they, as well as strancrers, re permitted to seekshelter under a coveredarcaclewhich surrounds t, and where cattle are slaut,hteredfor sacrificialpurposes. A Somal and a Galla are attached to this tomb as teachers,and they conductworship n their national ancruages.The Janti appear o be neighbours f the Panigal. Their country s a wi(le plainof black soil, lusuriantly coveredwith grass. 'lhere are no forests,not even arounRthe few lakelets or ponds, which are met one or two days' lnarches apart. Theclimate is cold, and mole rain falls than in the Pani country. The central districtis liable to hailstormsduring the southernmonsoon. AlthouCh hey are not equalin numbers to the Pani, the Janti are nevertheless an influential tribe, rich inhorses, mules, asses, small cattle with lonfflhorns, goats, and sheep. Camels arc

scaree; a little millet is grown. Men not entitled to wear thegutt6 or crinal badae,* Bali (8? 50' N., 39? 40' E.) is a district in SouthernShoa recently ccupiedas a.missionary tation,Galllu.


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265OMALAND GALLt L.&ND.shase the head completely. 01Volllenllow their hair to grow,and anoint it liberallywith ghee, but do not plait it into tresses. Their garment is made of two goat-skins, sewn toCether.The Arooscs,who live to the north of the Jub, which separates thern from theBworana,are quite distinct from the Aroosi, Arusi, or Aroosiaon the north, fromwhom they are separated y the Gerire. They are said to be the mothertribe of allthe Galla, and are split up into numerousclans, includingthe Kako, Karlyu, Surihi,Ltigho Baddan, atld Uriya, and are second only to the Bworana in strength andnumbers.* Wheat, Indian corn, and millet are cultivated, but pastoral pursuitspredominate. Camels, kine, and sheep abound, as do horses, asses, and mules.The Aroosa are skilful riders, and can pick up a spear from the groundwhilst infull career. In war they dodge the spears of their enemies by hanging down theoff-sideof the horse. They hunt on horseback,and when fortunate enough to killa lion, zebra,or giraSe, they hang tbe mane of the slain beast as a trophy roundtheil horse's neck. If an elephant is killed the tail is suspended o a lofty treenear a frequented oad,to proclaim he hunter's prowess. No coWees found n thecountry, and the little that is vlsed s procured n Nonso or at Ime. Among theproducts which the Ar60sa take to Ime are salt, myrrh, and the bark of a tree,called vunsi by the Somal, and khay ya ta7fataby the Galla, and even morehighly valued than myrrh.T/le (7ourbtryf the Scibor Rahanwtn. The Sab, or Rahanwln, according;oMr. WVakefield'snformants, nclude the Tuni, the Jidu, the Erlai, the Digili, theGebrun,&c. Umari bin Daud, himself a Somal, declares hat they are not Somal,wllilst lsinzelbach (von der Decken ii. p. 320) describesthem as the descendantsofSomal fathers and slave mothers. They are evi(lently mllch mised with Galla,whoformerlyoccupieda portion,at all events, of this country.On going from Mokhdeshoor Barawa o Bardera r Logh on the Jub, tlle countryof these tribes has to be crossed, and to the itineraries previously furnished byGuillain and GruttendenMr. AVakefielcldds at least one that is new (No. 6), andaccording to which the journey from Mokhdesho o Ijot,h, a distance of 190 geo-graphical niles, occupies en days.Crossing he WSebi t Geledi,the traveller passes over the GelCel,a grassy plain,and through Dafet, reachinC he Bur, a " hill country,"on the third day.Tlle " Bur " is commerciallyof some importance, or its inhabitants, he Erlai,visit the towns on the coast, whele they part with their camels, cattle, and otherprodtlets or dollars,which they in turn invest in inligo-dyed calico, iron, tobacco,and zinc (for bracelets). They are rich in camels, cattle, asses, sheep, and goats,but have no horses. Red millet, beans, vetches, sesamum,and a little cotton aregrown. Prominent among the hills in this reCion s tlle Bur Heba, very lofty,and wooded to its cloud-cappedsummit, which it takes twelve hours to reach.A spring rising near the top is held in high venerationby the Somal, who makepikrrimacreso it, spendinCas many as ten or even forty days fasting in a neigh-bourinCcavern or stone hut, until their prayers are responded o by " an audiblevoice from an invisible presence." Near the same mountain live the descendantsof the Galla Slleikh Mfihmin,who were sparedwhen the Somal invaded the country,on account of the protection extended to the Sheikh by a mysterious bird, afterwhom he is named. Bur Dejji, the "snake mountain," about six hours fro

* Elsewhere he LughoBadda,are stated to live far to tlle north-west f the Aroisa,against whomthey were led ill times lol, past by Hajje Dadaicha. 0n that occasionthey suffereduch seYere lossestllat they llave not returned ince.


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266 SOMALND GALLALAND.Heba,s thusnamed fter wo"petrifiednakes," hoguard ts approach Umarisayshatthese "snakes requireo be pointed ut to strangers,efore heycal:beecognisedssuch. This mountain,ikewise,s described s loftyandwooded.Lions,eopards,yenas, ndantelopesbound ear t.MealaMad,beyond he "Bur,"s describeds a tomrnf Erlai,abouthalf th&sizef Mombasa,nd with severalmosqueswithinits walls. SAraman, daybeyondt, is a fertiledistrict nhabited y Ashraf rdescendantsf the Prophet,whorerich n cattle, amels,heep, ndgoats,andtill thesoil.TheBon,whooccupy portionof the Sabcountry, t the backof the lowerWebi,utwhoarealso found n the Bwortlns,ountry ndfurther o the south,arenownalsoasBeen aranli "Been ith spears ) or Bongavawln "Bonwithb;guivers ). TheBworanaallthemId e orKocho,ndMr.Wakefieldugaeststhatheyareidenticalwith theWataandWasania Walangula), ho live undersimilaronditionsmong heBararettaGalla., Dr.iFischerooksupon heWatuaorWadahalo,andmoreespecially porlheWasania,s nearkinsmen ftheGalla.TheyertainlypeakGalla. Physicallyheyarewell made. Thoseamonfflhemwhoivein the Sabcountry rehunters,whopursue he elephant nd rhinoceroswithacksof hotlnds, lld kill theirquarry y dexterouslylunginga longspearfrom ehind nto its abdomen. The Bon keepcattle, but they subsistalmostexclusivelypon heproductsf thechase.lhe Jub.-The voluminousniormationolIected y Mr. Wakefielddoes notsettlehequestion fthesources f theJub,althought points o the Gibbe s itshead-stream.his conclusior, ouldaareewith the opinionheld by the earlyPortuguese,y LeondesAvanchers,Massaja,ndCecchi, lthoughn conflictwiththenformationollectedby M.d'AbbadiendDr.Beke,whichwould eadus tolookpon lleGibbe sthehead-streamftheSobat.Mr. Wakefield races he Jub fromWonso,o the south of RaSs, to L)hand ardera.BelowKonsot is known s WebiDawe rDau,or GanaleGuracha("black iver"),althoughts water s said to be red;or Webi Durka("rivercomingromafart). DoesDawemean4'capricious"?BelowLogh its nameappearso be lVebiGana,ni,rWebiGiweni"bi,:,river"),Jub beinChe namegiveno it b;srheArabs.L6?h,or L6gho, ppean o be the largest ownon theJub,whichsurroundsiton threesides, ee neck of the peninsulahus

formed eingclosedby a stonewall. It is much argerhan Bardera,nda greatplaceof trade to whichtheBworanaring vory,coffee, itrateof soda,andmanmks6to,a scentedwood,whichthey exchange or copper,ron,cloth,&c.,brought hitherfromBalawa. TheinhabitantsreGasaraGudeSomal,whobrmerlyived at Mokhdesho.The plainaroundhetow:n asredsoil and s wellcultivated. Therecanhardlybe a doubtthat LoOhs identicalwiththe Ganana f ourmaps. Mr. Wakefieldwas told,however,hatGanani, ndnotGanana, asa wooded istricto thewest of LoOh.AthaleandKurtum resmallerownsaboveLoCh.BelowLogh heJubformsherapids t thefootofwhich he HEelf waswreckedin 18a5. TheserapidsarecalledLe Hele,and t is interestingo learn hat thetwoboatstakenfromBaron ronder Dec',enare nowemluloyeds ferry-boatstBardera,he Gallanameofwhich s BalrTir.BelowBarderaEle ubappearso receive considerableributaryrotnhewest,viz.theGalana alalu,whichWoredeGalagalotctually dentifies ith the Jubasuppositioll,oweverXvlite r1econcilableith the itineraries hichhe furnishes(Nos.7 and8).There emainso be noticedn connection ith the Jub thecountry fWama,which s delineatedn theSociety'smapof EasternEquatorial frican accordance


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267OM.4L iND GALLA LAND.with a sketch made by the lVorede just mentioned. It abounds in lakes, allapparently ed from the Jub. The Deshek R'la Ghata and the Ddshek Wama onlyof these lakes never dry up, althouah the creeks mhich feed them do. The formerof these lalses is four days round,and has a fringe of forest, in whichdadGechreesare most conspicuous. The soil of this country is dark, and coveredwith lusuriantpasture; but it is avoided by the Sonzaloxning o the presence f the gendi ly,svhichis even more destructiveof camels than of cattle.Formerly he country was in the possessionof the Kobaba Rokaba), BrajoleorBararetta Galla, known to the Somal as Worra Dai (Wardai), but they wereousted about 1860 by the Kavlallata or Kablata Somal, and Wama appearssincethen to have become a " no man's and," only occasionally requentedby Tuni andErlai, Bworana, nd Rablala.*Amonz, nteresting ocalities in the AVama ountry should be the ruins of Reetllior Keyrthie, a town two or three days' journey from the coast. It had stone housesand seven gates, but was abandonedowing to the quarrelsbetween the Kilio andGarra amilies. Its inhabitants settled at variousplacesalon the coast,and becameknown as Wabunya, or " robbers."TZzetuoeanaGalla.-The Bworanaor BoraniGallas have been known by nameto Europeans ince the days of Lobo, but althouah M. LeoIl des Avancherscollectedsome more precise information respecting their country, it is only through theinquiries conducted by Mr. AVakefield hat our map has been filled up with anabundantnomenclature. The Bworanaare undoubtedlyone of the most powerfulofall the tribes of Galla. Their country extends from the vicinity of the Lower Jubfor a distance of 500 miles as far as Konso, a district to the south of Eaffa, believedto be the same as Kuisha. Konso, according to Mr. Wakefield's informant, sinhabited by half-breedGallas,who excel as agricultllristsno less than as weaversofcotton cloth, the productsof their looms being exported to great distances. Theircountry ies between he NVebiDarl and the AVebiKore,or Masai river,both of whichthey hae tappedto irrigatetheir fields.In the west the Bworanaboundary s formedby a grassyplain or upland,knownas the Sera or Serto, that is, " forbidden land. Their neiahbourshere appear o bevarious tribes of negroes,perhapskinsmen of the Shiluk or Bergo,who are known toestend from the Bahr-el-Abiad outhwardas far as Eavirondo,on the eastern shoreof the VictoriaNyanza, as well as the Rendile or Kore addi (" White Masai,"as dis-tinguished from the :Soremeth, or " Black Masai"), on the shores of the Lake ofSamburu,which no European has as yet beheld. Their country, or at all eventsone of the principal sections of it, is known as Livin, which Mr. Wakefield under-

* Tlle Kablala nclude-theKombeand S:vlmade. In 1869they joined the Marehan,Dir, and Erlai (Sab) in a predatory xcursion nto the WorraDai (Bararetta) ountry,fromwhich they returnedhoIne ich in cattle and fesnale aptives. The Kablala,duringthe homewardourlley, obbed he Erlai of their shareo? the plunder. About 1873theErlai startedwith 7770 men to avenge this injury: in the Wamacountry lley fell upon500 Kablala,and killed 300 of them; flushedwith victory hey started n pursuit,but,when crossingthe forest beyondDerep, hey fell into an anlbush,and were colnpletelyrouted.As to the Bararetta,or Wardai, hey are snid to be the descendants f Arusi andBaretuln,who left their country on accountof the privileges claimed by the eldelbrothers. They first settled in Hambambalaidat, a district irl the southerllBurranacountry,and subsequentlymoved to the country o the south of Tana, at that timeinllabitedby the Limado. The Bararettahave had twenty-fivechiefs since, each ofvhom rules duling eight years,so that this luigration nust has-e aken placeabout wohundre1yearsago.


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268 SOM.iL&NDGALLAL&ND.standso mean "prXitalJle place,andwhicll SomalandArabsrefer to as ArdorDidl Liwen.The informationwhich Mr.WXVakefieldas able to collect respectin this vastregionf some 7a,000 squaremiles is copious,but it is not sufficielltlyprecisetoenables to lay it downwith confidence n a map. He Cives,ndeed,what professestoe anitineraryfromLogh to IVonso, tlt as a journeyby that routeis supposed ooccupyo less than210 days, beingat the rateof hardlymorethan a mile a day, itisuite evidentthat xPehaveto deal with virtually disjointedmaterials,which talieusy moreor less erratic racks ntoall partsof this vast country. In utilising thesematerialsorthe Society'smap I have thereforebeen compelledto dismember hisapparentlyontinuous oute,and to distribute ts corlstituentinks by such lifflhts sareSordedby Mr. NVakefield'sotes and sketch maps, and by the informationpreviouslyollectedby M. Leondes Avanchers.

I need not give herea long strinCof native names,as the mrholef the informa-tion ill be foundembodiedn the Society'smap. Tllis lnuchappearso result froman xaminationof these nzaterials,hat we have to deal herewith a lrastpastoralre(rion,ottedoverwith detachedhills and lofty mountains,but apparentlydevoidof ll mountainranges. No indicationwhateverof an edt,eof a lofty plateau,suchass supposedto extend souths^TardromAbyssinia to the refflionf the KeniaandKilimanjaro,s afforded. None of the rivers, witll the exceptionof the GalanaSalalu, hicholle informant,erroneously believe, dentifieswith the Julo,appears obe erennial. They rvlshalongwith an impetuous orrentafterheavyrains,but soonexhaust heir strenbtll,and are mere wadis during the greaterpart of the arealr.Treesare plentiful, and otle of the districts Ytilsajlto-is

renownedfor itsgiganticbaobabs. Thereare even forests,to which the Galla fly with their herdswhenpressedby theirenemies,andevidenceas to tractscapable f cultivationis notwanting. The coSee-treegrowswild in many partsof the country,but is not culti-vated. Game of all kinds abounds; iron and zinc are found. Some ideasof thenature f the soil may be formed romthe descriptiveermsof " white,""red,"arld"black" applied to it, whichevidently referto limestonesor chall;,red loam,andvolcanic ocks. Nitrateof soda is found in the pits of El Magad. It is exportedtothe coast,wherethe Somaltake it with wateras an aperient,Olmis it with theirsnuff. A "nish" or hatfulmay be boughtat Barawa ora dollar.Severalroutes ead fromthe east coastinto the Bsorana coulltry. One of theseleadsfromMolvhdeshoo Loghon the Jub; anotherstarts from Barawa,and leadsto the sameplace,or to Bardera;whilst a third routefollowsthe liver Jul) itself.Theserouteshave alreadybeenconsidered, ut thereis a fourthroutestartinafromKisimayu, which appears o presentgreateradvantaaesto intendingexplorers, orlvhilst the northern outesleadthroucrhhe countryof the Rahanwln rSab,whoareaverseto seeint,theirtrademonopoly nterferedwith, as evidencedonly recentlybytheirrefusalto allowM. Revoil to traversetheir country,the southernrollte leadsalmostdirect]y nto the Bworana ountry.Kisimayu is a Somal town, ten miles to the sollth of the Jub, built in theSwahili strle and occupiedby a small garrisonof ZanzibarisXhose quartersareinclosedn astockade.Wellsof brackishwateryieldanabundantSUP-1JIYXutdl nkin-watel is generallybrouahton the backsof osen or donkeJ7sromthe Jub. The townis visited in times of peaceby Bworana aravans,and evenby traders romSamburu,xvhobrinC amels,asses, hides, ivory, coffee-berries,maycedi,which they exchancreat the shopsof Araband Banyantraders orsuch articlesas they luay requirc.FromKisimayutoEl AVakn theBworana ountry s a journcyof six days of tenhourseach. The road eadsdurinC he first day overa darkplainonly frequentedby the Somal herdsmendurinCthe rains to Andarafo. Fivc hoursbeyondthat


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269OMALANTDGALLALAND.placethe FaraWVamos crossed. This is a streamwhich leaves tlle Jub at Noferta,nearHindi. It reachesup to the loins lvhen flooded,but is usually dry. On theeveningof theseconddaythe caravansarriveat TapsauWVama,nother ocality onlyfrequentedduringthe cool season. The third station is at Derep,and leadsoveraplaindottedwith pits whichfill afterrain. Beyond Delep a denseforest,aboundingin elephants rhinoceros,and bufEaloesas to be traversed,afterwhich the travelleremergesuponan openredsandstoneplain,with a fesvclumpsof trees,in the centreof rhich lie the famous E1 WVak r ssGod's NVells,!'which supply an abundanceof most excellentwater throuo-houthe xrear;arlda Gallaproverb ays that csonlyrivers,rain,andEl WXValSurnish real water, and that all otherwatersaredeceits."Mostof these wells occupynaturalpits, but othershave beenexcavated. They arevery deep,and.theGalladescelld nto them by rlleans f tlle notchedtrunks of trees,tlle lowestman filling his giraffe-skin,which is tllen pitchedup fromman to mail,until it reaches the surEace. From El WSak,!Juk Buna or Bunat, the place ofresidenceof the Bxvoranahief Hllghashambalu,may be reached n a few days.TheBworana resplit up into two greatsections7iz. the Ya andthe Yul (Yub?),of whomthe formerarepurelypastoral,aIldoccupywith tlleirherdsof horses,cattle,camels,asses, goats,and sheep,the recrionowards the northwest, whilst the Yul,thoughlikewiserich in cattle, cultivate also millet, spices, and dawa (a medicinalherb). In addition o these two subdivisions,Mr.Wakefield ncidentallymentionsthe B;ltll, andstates that the Bararetta n the south also claim kinship with theBworana. The chief of all, Gobaharsame, esides in a district renownedfor itsbeautyandfertility,within which rise the hills Buna and Betela, the latterbeingabout wo dafTs'otlrneyto the south of the Jub.The Bworana,accordinOo all accounts,ale a warlikeand turbulent ribe,andthe Masai cannot stand acrainst hem, although the Somal, their nearerkinsmen,appearo have occasionallyworstedthem in the encoullterswhich they had withthem. They are famedas horsemen,ridint theirsteedswith a wooden?addleandstirrupsmadeof a thong, with an iron looplargeenough for the insertionof thebig oe as a stirrup,and an ironbit and blidle. Great careis takenof the horsesandmaresof goodbreedsarecarefully ookedafter. Milk and gheearegiven to thehorsess the most nutritiousfood,and they are washedand greasedoverwith gheetogive them strength. I)urint,the heat of the day they are kept in stablesbuilt ofstone,hatchedwith grass,andprovidedwith iron-bollnddoors,which areforgedbytheBwor;ina miths, for the holses are so spirited hat no woodendoorwouldresistthem. Twice daily they aretaken out for esercise, viz. early in the morningandagainn the afternoon,and fourtimes daily a bell of brassorcopperof native work-manships sounded n each campor settlement,as a sign forthe peopleto turn outto ather grass for the horses. NVhenhorses are employed in hunting, a corel swoundoundtheir earsso as to make them deaf. The huntsmenarearmedwithspears,words,and bol1vs, nd they ptlrSue he elephant and rhinoceroswith theswordn the samemanneras described y Sir SamuelBalSern his ' Nile TributariesofAbyssinia.'NVarppearsalmost a daily occupationof the Bworana. Theirarmsconsistof ajavelin,f a spear,,nd a shield. WVarriorsho have slain theirrnanarepermitted owearnostrich eatherstuckin the backof theirhead,asalsoa parti-colouredurban.All tart on horseback,but as each "army" is accompaniedby a commissariattrainf cattle, it marchesbut slowl-. On reachingthe place it is intendedtoattack,he lnen dismount,tie their chalgers up to a tree, and advance on foot.Theres ne orderof battle or tacticalformation, achtnanactint,as he deen:lsbestIfhe enemy'svillaCe s taken by surprise, t is set on fire,all the n:lenare killed,buthe womellandchildrenarespared} o be carriedaway as slaves. The enemies


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270 SOMALAND GALLA LAND.are mutilated, ut whilst youngwarriorsreservendtakehome he spoilsof theircrueldeeds n proof f theirachievements,ld " braves bury heir trophies n theenemy's ountry. Waichu, neof Mr.VVakefield'snformants,ejectedwith indig-nationthe suggestion hat his countrymenut off the handsof women, o securethe brassrings they wore-a deedworthZrnly of Masai. No quarters given orexpected. If the attackingpartymeetswith a repulse, he horses ffordt a readymeansof retreating,ndptlrsuits checked y occasionally heeling ound.Thecattle takenon these pltlnderinfflxpeditionss firstof all collectedwithinan "inclosure" uch as that markedLafa I)anAba, r "plain of booty," onour map. Herethe booty s divided, he largestshare alling o the Aba Dulatior generaln command,ndaftereachman has markedhe beastsassigned o him,the wholeherd s drivenhome o the villaCe f the raiders. Slaves, t is stated,aretreated indly. The Gallado not marry he slaves hey makeamong he Rendile,but occasionallyoudescendo make them concubines,nd sometimes artwitlthemto a Somal riend.Great rejoicings ake place on the returnhome of a bandof raiders. Onapproachinghe village the stolen cattle are sent forward. The warriors ingerbehind, ntil theirshoutsof victorybringout the women,who collectaroundhemdancing ndclappina ands, nduttering he shrillcry of deliahtpeculiaro Africa.Not a word s saidabotlt he slainandmissing s the crowdproceed o the settle-ment. Mothers r wives,anxiouslynquiring or a son or husband, re told thatthe dearonestill lingersbehind. On entering he village, he womenbringforthsororos with a mi2zturef milk andgheeandwitll it anointthe head* andotherpartsof the bodyof the nvarriorsho havekilled a foe,and also mark heir faceswith streaks, neblack,down he forehead,wo white on the left cheek,andone inbloodon the right cheek. This ceremony erformed,he women's riumphaIltshoutsgive placeto the son(tsof the warriors,n the courseof which the namesof thosewhohave allenare ntroduced ith a greatdealof delicacy. Eachof thesemournful nnouncementss preceded y a low monotone, o which the womenrespond, ndwhen the name of the fallenone is mentioned,he members f hisfamily all downwith greatweeping, nd aredeaf o all praise. This duty to thedead performed,he deeds of the survivors reestolled,and the trophiesbroughthome by the youngwarriors re then publiclyburied n a hole dug outside hesettlement.Thereligion f the Bworana,sof the otherGallawhohavenotcome nto contactwith other ribes, s a pure andsimple heism, ndno better dea of their religiousnotions anbe obtainedhan hatgivenby the prayers ppendedo Tutschek's allagrammar.Theybelieve n a supreme eing,Wake, in a futurestate,and in theefficiency f prayerand sacrifices,ut have no priests. Fine trees forming and-marks n the savannahs r plainsare favourite laces t whichto meet or prayerandsacrifice. Oneof the rnost amousocalities f this kind is in LafanDansa r" the beautiful ountry," here Gallasaint,distingtlishedor his upright ife andloveof God, ies buried t the foot of a tree. Two rings ormed f shrubs urroundthe tomb, he outerringbeingopen o all, whilst he ;unerone is reservedor theeldersof the tribe,who thereoSerup prayers ndsacrifices.Warriors hen heydepartheuce akeup a little sand rom he footof the tree o taketo theirwifefor" good uck." Another f these meeting-placess in Iiafa dlmtu, he " red land,"where acrificesrebrought n the election f a chief.Even more nteresting s the rocky plain called D'ad'ap "dre


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271OMALAND GALLALAND.frontier etweenheBw()ranandAroosi,where hreeblack toneshavebeenraisedby the Galla,andwhichareannually isitedby them,whencattlearesacrificedandprayers SeredoWake.Ofnaorerequent ccurrencerethe sacrificesrouOhtveryspringandautumnin eachvillage,when heheadmanalls togetherhis people, ndsacrifices blackgoat, sbeinCnanimalmostacceptableothedeity. Theanimal'sead s wrappedupin a newclothof indigo-dyedalico,andwhilstofferinCpprayersheheadmanstandsby its sideandgentlystrokes ts backwithhis righthand,whilstholdingits headwith theleft. Blackcattleandgoatsareapparentlyacred nimals, ndare seldomusedforordinaryurposes.Duling the ceremonyhe spriaof a treeis dipped n +rater,ndtllepeoplepresent resprinkled ith it. VVemayobservehere hat n Gura, country nder Bworanahief, nakesareheldsacred.A curious eremonfTakesplacewhen a Bworanaad attainshis majority;it is calledada (forehead),ut Mr.Wakefield ddsin brackets he mrordarcs,whichmeans"circumcision."Ontl-leseccasionsheyoungmenonbellalf fwhomtheceremonyaliesplaceassemble ith theirparents ndelderrelativesn a hutor gomc6built forthe purpose. A bullock s there sacrificed,nd everypersonpresent ipsa finger ntothe b]ood,whichis allowedo flowover heground, ndwhilstthemen ouch heforeheadith heblood-stainedinger,hewomen imilarlytou(;hhewindpipe. These atter,moreover,mear hemselves ithfattaken romnear hekidneyof theanimalsacrificed,nd hrowa narrowtripof its hideroundthe neck,wearingt until the followingday. Thebullocli s thendevoured,llemenaccompanyinfflheirmealwithpotations f dadi or hydromel, ndall presentjoining n thechorus f"Woh mala avai!"In additiono Bon, ocallyknownas Kocho rIdole,a goodmanySomal ppearto havesettled ll thecountry f theBworana.These mmigrantsftera whilegiveuptheKoran,andbecomemergedn theGalla. Tothis classprobablyelongheGarra,rGareSomal, orgdre,n Galla,means"bastard."In conclusion, egivetheprincipaltinerariesollected y Mr.NVakefield.

ITINERARIES.All distancesn hour3 gellerally ncluding he middayhalt) unless thervisetated.1. MokEdeshoo Zopiccby Urrtari;).1. Harshanshalewell. 2. WarshekhAval,anAb;,al oWn half-way). 3. E1Harar,"bitterwell." 4. Bashaghalewells. S. Askule(Marotiof Arabs). 6. Oromagali, hree wells. 7. Zihil, many wells (E1 Athale, afishingvillage, half-way). 8. Camp. 9. MeghetX ells. 10. E1 Geul,brackishwater.11. E1Deble,wells. 12. Hendanane rSefaSai, wells. 13. E] SIarek,wells. 14. E1Mad'hahawene,ells. 15. E1Maerawakho,ells. 16. Ba'adUlgaras, hreehours romsea, a small lake here. 17. Simimehlye,wells (Ayan Same, 1 to 15 days inland).18. E1GarabAdde,wells. 19. Whahawin,wells (Duduble,1 dayinland). 20. Darut,brackishwells. 21. E1Gan,wells. 22. E1 Hendule,brackisllwells. 23. E1Bakehli,brackishwells. 24. Camp,no water. 25. Kosultlra,blackishwells. 26. Fadi Golol,goodwater. 27. Camp,no water. 28. HopiaorHawpia.2. Xopia to Rag71attend Mok7ldesho7>yUmari).-1. Dua Gau, wells, 12 S.S.W.;MagaJiwwe,wells,36S.S.W.;Ralsubano,wells,12S.S.W.;Miron, S.S.NV.; araDeru,districtof Abc,ali,12 S.S.W.; Sarw,12S.W.; LebbaDawib n Sarur,12S.W.;Dudubla,12 S.lV.; AyanSame,12 S.W.; AbaraEene, no water,12 S.W.; TsraFlli, 12 S.W.;ili EivakaGab,12S.W.; E1Aul, goodwatel,12 S.W.; DabaLeirorLeyeer,nowater,12 S.lV.; E1Get Raran,12 S.W.; E1Wll, 12 S.W.; Fei Shuc,a,goodwater,12S.W.;DambaAtllat or Q'atha,wells, 12 S.W.; Ragllalleon the WebbeShabeela,36 S.W.;(see ItineraryNo. 4); DagaHeo,firstvillage ll Shidla,12S. byE.; Tu,uri,12 S. by E.;Yaghele,12 S. byE.; FarBaraki,12 S.byE.; Demel ,12 S.byE., iEZorebe,astvillagein ;Shidla, 2 S. by E.; Beilat,AbDalvillage, eavethe Weobi,2 S. byE.; JabalIsalh6 S.E. by S.; Arfit,5 S.; Molshdesho, S.


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272 SOBIALAND GALLA L.XA-D.3. Berl)es z o Gzbben Vorl (by Aclamu).-Magala Sahil (Berbera) o Chabaat " whitestick ") 2 days S.E.; Jiele, 2 days S.E.; Fambi, 6 hoursS.E.; Dek in Berrinwen,the' big country," - days S.E.; LamHagal, a tree,3 days S.E.; C:lirinle naxne f a tree),

1l days E.S.E.; FurdaLais (" horses ie "), 2 daysS.S.W.* Lavean Maweithu r Les-eAna Maweitlou,21 days S.; GubbenDor],1 danr .E.4. Berbega to Barau,a (by Umari).--3Iagtil?lahil (Berbera) o Athari (Harar)60S.W.by S.; Whotegalla, 2 .X\r. hy lV.; HumboGalla,12 S.W.b.yW.; catnpof BartlrnGalla, S.W. by W.; Een, Somal towll, 12 S.W. by W.; camp of Arusia,nearWebiShalDeela,2 S.W.by W.; last campof Arusiaon river, 72 S.; I?Xe,12 S.; Waranle, 2 S.;Bayahall, 1 S.; Shabela, 36 S.; Masur, OWll, 60 8.; Raghaile, 12 S.; D'hagahe're,freed laves,12 S.; Saraman,reedslaves,12 S.; Yaghale,ZIwolilen 12 S.; Far Baraki,Abgal village on E. bank, 12 S.S.E.; Detnele,Abgal and Mwobilen, 2 S.S.W.;Rorebe,or Wore-a,Abgal, 12 S.; Balat, ruins, villat,e, 12 S.; Geledi, town, 12 S.E.; MordIli,town of Intirro Somal, 10 S.S.w.; D'haalsTere,own of GarreSotnal,12 S.; Audeale,town of Begedi, 6 S.S.W.; Iambarak, oxvll f Begedi,9 S.; WNraac,adi,own of Biamali,5 S. by W.; Goluen,5 S.; Adehmo,villageof Jlelu,11 S.; Darshen, illageof Jldu, 9 S.;Shaliala,village-ofJldu, nvherehe Webi s crossed, 1 S. by W.; Barawa,12 S.S.AV.5. AtAla7(IIarar) to Ime (le1y damte).-Atbari to campof DebeleGalla,6 hoursW.;Ania or L6tha,6 days W.; Altu, 10 hours S.W.; Gure,13 hours S.; Gaweli,3 daysS.5v.; Re Illi, 2 days S.M'.by W.; Goralla me, 5 hoursS.6. =7ffiothcleshoo Loghoon tAbezb (by Ul?zsi).-Mokhdesho to Geledi,12; Gelgdl,12;Dafet, 12, Bur Heba,24; MoalaBI'ad, 2; Saraman, 2; Logho,30.7. Bardera to l)eregomale by WoredeG(elagalot). Barderao GaraLivan, 10 W.N.W;campof Arusi, 12 N.; camp,37 MT.S.W.; Salalu (Jub), 10 S. and W.S.W.; alon northbank of Salalu to Deregomale, .

8. leregomalG t0 Earclela(by WoaedeGaltStxlot).-Deregomale to camp,15 E.; GaraLivan, Bardera, ross Jub, 15; Matha Goi, 9 ; Aanole,13 ; Marere,17 ; D'hamere, ;13arawa, E.9. Bara?ca to Wama (by Worede Galagalot).-Barawa to Aarshanle, S.W.; Mago,5 S.+V.; (;araswln,9 S-W-; Chirfa Goda,on Ganli lake, 14 S.W.; Tukule, 13 S.W.;Aji D6iyo on the WVebbi alsan; Jub), 6 S.W.; cross and go on to Re Ghata inAVama, W.10. XismaVyo o LogAl by U2nari).-Kismayo to River Jub, 5; Yillage on ferry overJub, 2; Hindi, 4; Haf, 2; Jisse,12; hIalade, 1; Senjibar, ; LamaDat, 12; Geila orGeyeela,12; iima village, 12; Juani (Juari?), 11; Bardera, 1; Logh, 18.11. Lismaiyo to El Wak(by Umari).-lSismaiyoo AndarafoX2; TapsauWama,12;

Derep,12; El Wak, 36. Direction,N.W. by N.12. SupSosedItineraryhrough he Bwor na Country by Adamu).-Logh to Bur (i uthtlt,12 daysN.N.NV.;Mdullo, dayN.N.W.;De]3rebe,l3daysN.N.W.; Marra, dayN.N.W.;Garevillage, 1 day W.N.W.; Bur Gabo,1 day W.NsW.;River Kontoma,3 days S.W.;Gobso, 4 days W.S.W.; Bwola Gudagu, 2 days W-N-W.; Harla Guthut, 7 darsAV. v N.^ Darmo,5 days W.; BunaYerra,2 days W.N.W.; Buna Betela, 2 days W.;Omaro, asternborder, days lV.; Omaro,westernborder, daysW. by S.; El lEagad,S days r; Athable,4 daysW.S.W.; RortnaHarre,72 daysW. and W.by S.; Akafede,2 daysN.W.; Jilo, 4 daysW.; Bur BIal:ldera,0 days N-W alld W.; E1 Garsa,4 daysAV.;El Kocho,9 daf3 W. by S.; MukaBun, east end, 2 days W. by S.; ditto, westernbank, 4 days W.; Lafa Righ, 4 dfaysW.; El Hagarsu,4 days W.; Yaka Jilo, 5 or6 daysW.; Danaba ?), N.W. (6 days N-E by N- of the Rendile); Gabba,6 daysN.W.;Livinwen,4 days W.N.W (40 days E of Lcogh);Kaya Liban, 24 days W.N.W. (or7 days E. of Samburu, nd S.W. of Itne); Bur Waicho,7 days XV.;Intille, 10 days W.;Dokota,18 daysWV.;ake in iConso, 0 days W. Total,about210 clays' ourneyv

The PRESIDENT,n conamenting n Mr. Xavenstein'spater, said it was not thatofa traveller,but of a man who threw himself so heartily into the laboursof othersthat he seenled to travel with every trclvellerwhose works he describod. It was


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27373OAT VOYAGEON \'ICTORIASYAXZA, ETC.OAT VOYAGEON \'ICTORIASYAXZA, ETC.illterestingo healhim giving the creditwhichwas ustly due to the Portuguese,avhoat presentwere not in verygoododourwith the Britishmerchant. Amon(Jothers he mentioned hat early missionaryLopez, whose works Dr. Johnsontranslatedn the period f his youth and great rials. Since then that unknowncountry a(lawakenedhe adventurouspiritof almostall thse reatnations f theu-orld. Portuguese, nglish,French,Dutch, GEermans,ad all contributedheirqvlOtaXand he last andoneof the most successfulravellersherewas MrF ValSe-field, to whomthe Societywas indebted or nqany nteresting ommunications.AIr.Ravenstein ad clearly hownhowmuch still remaiIledo be discoveled,ndlad thereby ncreasedhe interest aken Il that partof Africa.

Boat Yoyaye long heql)esternhores f Victo;a lYyan%a,qonzZ9anctao Kayeye;azd EzSloratioswf Jordans V?sIS-MBy A. }X.MACKAY, C.E.

WVE re indebtedto the ChurchMissionarySociety for the followingaccountof a recentvo) age along the WeStel'Il slloresof TictoriaNyanzaand exploration f JordansNullah,which they have received rom heiagent,BIr.Alackay.THEBOAFrO\-F\G.

J-usee 7,1883, I left the mission station at Natele, in Bu-ganda (Ugallda);slept for the night at Kyikibezi, only 10 miles distant and near MurchisonBay.J2zwe 28.-Marchecl anothergood dozen miles to tlle plantationof Sebagoya (irSelhukule's ountry) near Waambwafill.Jesne 9.-Reached Mugula'scapital, Ntebe, after some eight mlles' march.Ju?e 30. Got men and loads distributed arnongthe canoes, and embarsed nfair weather. After a long pull reachedBunjako, at a point Ilear Sale Island, latein the day.Jetly 1. NYewere late in startin. The lake was rouah and the weatherveryhazy, but it became smootheras we got under lee of Sese. Put in for dinner atmy old camp in Sese, amonffl ild palm-trees. Re-embarking t 4 P,M. we paddledtill after dark, hoping to reach }3ujaju,but put into a cove in a small lumpy islandbetween Sese and mainland,and found here Sungura'sboat at anchor, n route forUsukuma. The crew were in huts ashore; they ha^7e cargoof ivory and slaves illstocks. This sailing boat has been eiCht days froanStebe to this, while we havecovered the distance n two. We cut bush-wood o cleara place for our tent whichzve pitched by the light of my lantern. The outer awning of my tent I rig vlpsezarately for nly men to sleep under,as it is cold.J7zZy . At dawn it blew a cold north wind, and the dhow took advantageofit ly hoistillg sail and getting under way. My tent was alive with l)iting brownants, which only fre and hot ashes will drive away. \Ve embarkedat lellgth,intenaliDCo make for the oppositeshoreof Bujaju,where wc must buy someearthenpot3 for cooking. Wind unfavourable,o we strike outh,while the dhowheld onller way to Dumo. By 3 P.M. it got rouOh.WATeoonafter allded n an openbeachnearMbroya{ra,hecountry eatof Mungobya,ho has just ret-urnedloma lvar nKalaCwe,rhithere wassentwithanarllly, o put certaill randsonf Rumanyika'soll the throne, ndplunder omeotherclaima:at; e hadreturned ith large ootyof cattle,women, ndslaves,as is the custom n Bu-,anda.50. V. MsY 1884.] x

illterestingo healhim giving the creditwhichwas ustly due to the Portuguese,avhoat presentwere not in verygoododourwith the Britishmerchant. Amon(Jothers he mentioned hat early missionaryLopez, whose works Dr. Johnsontranslatedn the period f his youth and great rials. Since then that unknowncountry a(lawakenedhe adventurouspiritof almostall thse reatnations f theu-orld. Portuguese, nglish,French,Dutch, GEermans,ad all contributedheirqvlOtaXand he last andoneof the most successfulravellersherewas MrF ValSe-field, to whomthe Societywas indebted or nqany nteresting ommunications.AIr.Ravenstein ad clearly hownhowmuch still remaiIledo be discoveled,ndlad thereby ncreasedhe interest aken Il that partof Africa.

Boat Yoyaye long heql)esternhores f Victo;a lYyan%a,qonzZ9anctao Kayeye;azd EzSloratioswf Jordans V?sIS-MBy A. }X.MACKAY, C.E.

WVE re indebtedto the ChurchMissionarySociety for the followingaccountof a recentvo) age along the WeStel'Il slloresof TictoriaNyanzaand exploration f JordansNullah,which they have received rom heiagent,BIr.Alackay.THEBOAFrO\-F\G.

J-usee 7,1883, I left the mission station at Natele, in Bu-ganda (Ugallda);slept for the night at Kyikibezi, only 10 miles distant and near MurchisonBay.J2zwe 28.-Marchecl anothergood dozen miles to tlle plantationof Sebagoya (irSelhukule's ountry) near Waambwafill.Jesne 9.-Reached Mugula'scapital, Ntebe, after some eight mlles' march.Ju?e 30. Got men and loads distributed arnongthe canoes, and embarsed nfair weather. After a long pull reachedBunjako, at a point Ilear Sale Island, latein the day.Jetly 1. NYewere late in startin. The lake was rouah and the weatherveryhazy, but it became smootheras we got under lee of Sese. Put in for dinner atmy old camp in Sese, amonffl ild palm-trees. Re-embarking t 4 P,M. we paddledtill after dark, hoping to reach }3ujaju,but put into a cove in a small lumpy islandbetween Sese and mainland,and found here Sungura'sboat at anchor, n route forUsukuma. The crew were in huts ashore; they ha^7e cargoof ivory and slaves illstocks. This sailing boat has been eiCht days froanStebe to this, while we havecovered the distance n two. We cut bush-wood o cleara place for our tent whichzve pitched by the light of my lantern. The outer awning of my tent I rig vlpsezarately for nly men to sleep under,as it is cold.J7zZy . At dawn it blew a cold north wind, and the dhow took advantageofit ly hoistillg sail and getting under way. My tent was alive with l)iting brownants, which only fre and hot ashes will drive away. \Ve embarkedat lellgth,intenaliDCo make for the oppositeshoreof Bujaju,where wc must buy someearthenpot3 for cooking. Wind unfavourable,o we strike outh,while the dhowheld onller way to Dumo. By 3 P.M. it got rouOh.WATeoonafter allded n an openbeachnearMbroya{ra,hecountry eatof Mungobya,ho has just ret-urnedloma lvar nKalaCwe,rhithere wassentwithanarllly, o put certaill randsonf Rumanyika'soll the throne, ndplunder omeotherclaima:at; e hadreturned ith large ootyof cattle,women, ndslaves,as is the custom n Bu-,anda.50. V. MsY 1884.] x

1884 Expedition

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Transcript of 1884 Expedition