In 2008 an ad for a local bread manufacturer ran on Irish TV, featuring two men building an old-style, traditional stone wall in Connemara. As they work, a woman approaches with a tray of avocado-and-prawn sandwiches, also doling out a green tea and a skinny latte. When one of the men takes a phone call on his mobile, he turns down a request saying he has his Pilates class that evening.

The ad captured the Irish Zeitgeist perfectly, portraying the two distinct sides of a country that has undergone huge, transformative change yet re-mained largely the same. On the one hand, there’s the New Ireland, a land of motorways and multiculturalism, planned and developed in between double decaf lattes and time out at the latest spa for a thermal mud treatment. The economy may have taken a massive hit in the last year or so, but the country has found a new level of cosmopolitanism and sophistication that it’s not likely to lose anytime soon. Ireland’s other personality, however, is a little more traditional and, if the regular polls of departing tourists are to be believed, still holds the key to Ireland’s draw as a tourist destination.

At the heart of it all is the often-breathtaking scenery, still gorgeous enough to make your jaw drop, despite the best efforts of developers to scar some of the most beautiful bits with roundabouts, brutal suburbs and summer bungalows. From the lonely, wind-lashed wilderness of Donegal to the postcard landscapes of western Cork, Ireland is one of the world’s most beautiful countries, and worth every effort you make to explore it. And we mean, of course, the whole island, including the North – for so long scarred by conflict but now finally engaged in the process of recovery, able to once again parade its stunning self to a world that for so long only heard about the province’s troubles on the evening news.

But the overwhelming popularity of scenic superstars like Connemara and Kerry has seen the emergence of quieter idylls as the preferred destina-tion of the discerning traveller, who has discovered the beauty of the lakes of Roscommon and the villages of Waterford, of rarely visited counties like Westmeath. These are the areas where you can come into contact with a more genuine Ireland, the kind removed from the slick machinery of the tourist trail.

Ireland is a complex, often contradictory country, and those contradictions are evident everywhere you go, from the thatched rural pub advertising its wi-fi connection and imported Australian wines to the group of Polish-born school kids chatting away to each other in Irish. No sooner do you make an assumption about the place than something will confound you completely, leaving you no wiser than before you began. But don’t worry, you’re in good company: most of the Irish are as perplexed about it as you are.

All of this confusion hardly fits the traditional, time-worn view of a nation of affable people made happy by the conviviality of a drink among friends, but the Irish have always mocked the fanciful notions of Irish Americans and other ‘hyphenated Irish’, who return to the land of their ancestors hoping to find a version of the iconic film The Quiet Man. The Irish love their humour, but they usually prefer it served black and ironic, all the better to deal with the difficulties that surround them.

And these are unquestionably difficult times for Ireland. By now, we’re all wearily familiar with the story of the pinstriped bozos who brought the world to its knees by throwing bits of paper up in the air and calling them ‘derivatives’. But Ireland’s

Destination Ireland

FAST FACTS

Population: 4.3 million (Republic), 1.7 million (Northern Ireland)

Unemployment rate: 12.1% (Republic), 6.2% (Northern Ireland)

Inflation: 2.6%

Territory size: 70,300 sq km

Annual earnings from tourism: €6.3 billion

Mobile phone subscrip-tions in Ireland: 5 million

Number of visiting tour-ists per year: 7.8 million

Irish adults who have satellite TV: 25%

Biggest no-no: Saying ‘begorrah’ (they’ll just laugh at you)

Second-most spoken language: Irish

18© Lonely Planet

l o n e l y p l a n e t . c o m D E S T I N AT I O N I R E L A N D

is that much more shocking because the collapse of the global financial system triggered the virtual disintegration of an economy that was blindly, blithely – and ultimately disastrously – dependent on a property bubble that burst in late 2008, leaving the country to once again confront the fears of its past: spiralling unemployment, economic paralysis and the slow bleed of emigration.

Then, six months later, just as the country was beginning to come to terms with the harsh new realities of its economic fortunes, its annus hor-ribilis was compounded with the publication of the 3000-page report of the Commission to Inquire into Child Abuse, which revealed in all its stark, unspeakable horror the fate of so many of the almost 170,000 children who passed through the industrial school system in the middle decades of the 20th century – and the complicity of both the Church and the State in their workhouse hell. In 2009 one question was on everybody’s lips: how did it all go so horribly wrong?

You’ll hear a lot of theories from Irish people during your travels, as well as a few no-nonsense solutions: throw all the bankers in jail, defrock the clergy and, above all, get rid of that awful show of liars and incompetents in government. But they know, too, that none of those things are likely to happen, so they’ll shake their heads in resignation and sure, isn’t that just the way of things? Then they’ll offer you a drink and talk about Ireland’s problem with the stuff – how it’s both the nurse and curse of the people – all the while making sure that your glass never gets empty.

For all of Ireland’s very real problems and confusing contradictions, the fact remains that the Irish warmth and welcome is the real deal, and mil-lions of visitors testify to the sheer ease with which they made friends here. Someone will stop and help you find your way when you’re standing on a corner gawking at a map; you will strike up a conversation if you’re sitting alone in a pub; and there is a very good chance that if you’re stuck some-where a local will volunteer a lift to wherever you need to go. The Irish love complaining about their country – the crappy weather, the horrible traffic, the corruption and, increasingly, the horrors of the past – and will swear to you that you’re the luckiest person on earth because you don’t have to live here. But that they only do because this is the greatest country on the planet. Make sense? Well, it does here.

19

Compact, relatively homogenous and theoretically crossed by car in less than four hours, Ireland doesn’t pose any major challenges to the visitor other than the ones set by the often inclement weather; the horrendous traffic that can make getting through a two-dog town a 45-minute struggle against road rage; and what might generously be called inconsistent pricing, where value for money isn’t always apparent. Otherwise, Ireland is a doddle.

WHEN TO GO The Irish weather works on the ‘four seasons in a day’ principle, which basi-cally means that you can’t predict a thing when it comes to the behaviour of the sky. Some basic assumptions, however, can be made.

In summer, from June to August, the days are reasonably warm and – most importantly – very long: at the height of summer you won’t need to turn on the lights until after 10pm. It is also peak tourist season, which means there are far more people just about everywhere but the most remote corners of the island, and prices are at their highest. Not surprisingly, most of the yearly festivals occur during these times so as to take advantage of the crowds and the more favourable weather.

Spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November) make good alternatives, although the country’s ever-growing popularity as a tourist destination can often blur the lines between mid- and high-season tourism. Still, you have a better chance of some peace and quiet, and the weather can be surprisingly better in April and September than in mid-July – again, it’s all part of the uncertainty principle. Spring festivities include the ever-popular St Patrick’s Day festival.

Although temperatures will barely venture below freezing, winter (December to February) can be brutal, but huge parts of the country – the west and northwest in particular – are at their savage and beautiful best in the cold winter light. Crowds are at their thinnest, but many of the country’s tourist attractions and services close down in October and don’t reopen until Easter, which paradoxically leaves visitors with a more convincing taste of how Ireland is experienced by most of the Irish: it’s cold, grey and dark by 5pm, but there’s always a pub to escape into when the rain starts sheeting down.

COSTS & MONEY The collapse of the economy in the space of six short months over late 2008 and early 2009 has left the country in a state of flux: prices are coming down

Getting Started

See Climate Charts (pp701-2) for more information.

DON’T LEAVE HOME WITHOUT…

Ireland won’t test your survival skills unless you’re the worse for wear in the middle of nowhere, but there are a few essentials you won’t want to leave behind:

Good walking shoes

Raincoat

UK/Ireland electrical adapter

A finely honed sense of humour

A hollow leg

Decent Irish-themed playlists for your iPod – see p60 for our recommendations.

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in many areas, but they’re coming down from such a height that to many visitors Ireland remains a pretty expensive destination. For a decade, Irish wallets were at the mercy of a rip-off culture that stung everybody, including visitors, who felt it most when it came to bed and board.

In Dublin, the bare minimum to survive is about €50 a day: €20 to €25 for a hostel and €20 for sustenance, which leaves just enough for a pint. If your purse strings are a little more relaxed, you can get a decent bed for around €80 in the capital, €60 outside of it. For €120 you can sleep pretty luxuriously most anywhere except those very special places. Outside the capital things are a little better, but not much: if you’re in a tourist hot zone, it’ll be reflected in the prices, which are only marginally better than in Dublin.

Although restaurants are closing down all over the country, the new economy hasn’t resulted in a marked decrease in the price of food. For less than €10, don’t expect much more than soup and what comes between two slices of bread. Very ordinary meals will cost €20 or more; the better restau-rants won’t blink twice when charging €35 for fish in a fancy sauce.

In Northern Ireland, the bite isn’t as deep. The ‘rip-off Republic’ tag that for so long dogged the south isn’t as much of an issue north of the border, but it certainly hurts anyone from Northern Ireland if they go south: exchange rates make the eurozone very expensive for anyone using pounds sterling (as they do in Northern Ireland, which is part of the UK).

Once in the north, though, you can get by on £35 a day without too much bother if you’re on a budget and limit yourself to hostels or self-catering accommodation. Accommodation costs generally mirror the Republic, but you’ll find real savings in food – you can get excellent two-course lunches in lots of good restaurants for £10 or less, while main courses in Belfast’s best eateries range from £14 to £18.

Car rental is costly throughout the island. Be sure to check your car insur-ance policy back home before accepting the exorbitant insurance policies offered at car-rental agencies. If your credit card usually covers car-rental insurance, confirm that the policy applies in Ireland.

TRAVELLING RESPONSIBLY The government coalition may include the Green Party, but of Ireland’s 40 shades of green the eco kind is surely one of the faintest. It’s not that the Greens are ineffectual (which they are, but mostly because they’re the very junior partner in a coalition), nor is it that the Irish are especially indiffer-ent to the needs of the environment. No, it’s down to that awkward truth known as history: it’s hard to tell a nation that got wealthy a wet week ago after pissing potless for centuries that they shouldn’t buy an SUV or go on four foreign holidays a year. Somehow, the fact that in 2007 Ireland’s carbon footprint was 5.0 global hectares per person – more than double the global average – didn’t really have the kind of impact the European Environment Agency hoped it would have, which meant that the country would have to pay for its emissions, a total of 3.6 million tonnes of carbon per year.

Enter the economic collapse of 2008–9. All of a sudden, production has dropped across a range of industries and the Environmental Protection Agency has altered its forecast, guessing that the country would be liable for about half the amount of carbon credits, between 1.3 million and 1.8 million tonnes of carbon. Such improvements notwithstanding, Ireland will still struggle to meet its obligations under the Kyoto Protocol and the EU’s own binding targets, scheduled for 2020.

The real saving grace for the small band of eco-activists has been the queue, which has done more than an Al Gore movie to remind the Irish that life needs to get a little more sustainable. Endless traffic jams, snaking queues at

HOW MUCH?

Irish Times €1.80

1km taxi fare €1.60

Cinema ticket €9.50

Admission to Gaelic football match €12-18

Aran sweater €55

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overburdened airports and just general waiting in line to get stuff drives most Irish people crazy. So when they’re informed that becoming eco-responsible will go some way toward restoring a sense of sanity, they react positively.

As so many visits to Ireland begin in Dublin, you could start your trip by dropping into Cultivate (%01-674 5773; www.cultivate.ie; 15-19 West Essex St) in Temple Bar, Ireland’s only sustainability-focused living and learning centre. The centre has an eco-shop, lots of information stands, and hosts workshops and classes on everything from composting to green building. Also worth checking out are Sustainable Energy Ireland (www.sei.ie), the country’s national energy centre, and the Irish branch of Friends of the Earth (www.foe.ie).

Throughout this book we have endeavoured to highlight any accommo-dation or project that puts green issues at the forefront of their planning; for more, see the Environment chapter ( p74 ); the itinerary ‘An Eco Kind of Green’ ( p29 ); our Top 10 Green Projects ( p24 ); and our Greendex (p761).

Offsetting Paying someone else to offset your greenhouse gas emissions isn’t the perfect solution to the major issue of global warming, but it is a step in the right direction. The most popular offsetting program involves tree planting, but there are other schemes such as methane collection and combustion. Carbon Neutral Ireland (www.carbonneutralireland.ie) can help you calculate your emissions and advise you how to offset them.

Planning Create an itinerary that allows you to explore and experience the best of Ireland while maintaining some level of eco-responsibility. Your aim should be to benefit locally owned businesses and any venture that preserves the local culture.

This means choosing locally owned accommodation over the big, multi-national chain hotels (see opposite for our selection of green-friendly accom-modation); restaurants that make an effort to use local produce; and activities that benefit the local community rather than exploit it. A good example is golf, where you should endeavour to play the older established courses rather than the newer megaresorts designed to draw in wealthy players with a mix of US-style course design and on-course houses that are nothing more than a huge drain on local resources. Throughout this book we have endeavoured to keep all of these considerations uppermost in our thinking.

GREEN WEBSITES

Check out the following online resources for in-depth info on how to travel in Ireland without being an environmental bully or leaving too large a carbon footprint:www.cultivate.ie Sustainable living centre in Dublin’s Temple Bar.www.sustourism.ie All-Ireland project committed to building a sustainable tourist infrastructure.www.greenbox.ie An integrated ‘green zone’ that includes Fermanagh, Leitrim, West Cavan, North Sligo, South Donegal and North West Monaghanwww.enfo.ie Ireland’s public information service on environmental matters, including sustainable development.www.sei.ie Ireland’s national energy centre was set up in 2007 to promote and assist the development of sustain-able energy. www.foe.ie The world’s largest network of environmental groups has its own Irish branch.www.friendsoftheirishenvironment.net A network of independent environmentalists that has logged close to 10,000 environment-related stories. www.thevillage.ie Ireland’s first ecofriendly and sustainable urban plan is an extension of the village of Clough-jordan, County Tipperary.

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Sustainable Tourism Ireland (www.sustourism.ie) is a handy starting point with a list of enterprises, from B&Bs to urban planning projects, that put eco-responsibility and sustainability at the fore.

Fly Less There are numerous boat companies serving Ireland from Britain and France, and return fares often don’t cost that much more than one-way fares – not to mention the plethora of special offers designed to challenge the cheap flight hegemony. Boats arrive in Dublin, Belfast, Larne and Wexford; for more details, see the Transport chapter ( p717 ).

Use Less Plastic The Republic has a levy of €0.22 on all plastic bags at the point of sale, and it has proven remarkably effective, reducing the use of these noxious carriers by up to 90%. Northern Ireland introduced a 5p levy in July 2007. We urge you to use as few plastic bags as possible; most shops sell cloth bags that can be stashed away when not in use.

Stay Longer An extended visit, as opposed to the rush-in, rush-out limitations of city-break travel, is preferable because it allows for ‘slow travel’ – the kind of exploratory travel that allows you to take your time and get to know a place without needing to rush (and find the fastest form of transport) to get you around. The ideal form of slow travel is a bike tour – throughout the book we have included details of bicycle rental agencies. Some organisations also run bike tours (see p718 ).

TRAVEL LITERATURE Travel in Ireland seems to inspire writers, some of whom seem obsessed with using Guinness as a metaphor for Irish life. As irritating as that is to the Irish and anyone else with an aversion to bad metaphors, some manage the job with cleverness and humour.

Ireland – In a Glass of Its Own by Peter Biddlecombe is a hilarious trip around Ireland, based on the premise that the 32 counties can be said to represent the constituent parts of a pint of the black stuff.

Pint-Sized Ireland by Evan McHugh is the story of the ultimate Aussie pilgrimage: a journey the length and breadth of Ireland to find the perfect pint. The entertaining means do justify the ridiculous ends.

McCarthy’s Bar has sold millions of copies thanks to the colourful account of author Pete McCarthy’s attempt to rediscover Ireland by having a pint in every pub that bears his name. His follow-up, The Road to McCarthy, is a look at the Irish diaspora.

TOP 10 GREEN SLEEPS

Anna’s House B&B Strangford Lough, County Down; p612 .Ardtarmon House Drumcliff, County Sligo; p460 .Errigal Hostel Dunlewey, County Donegal; p488 .Jampa Ling Buddhist Centre Bawnboy, County Cavan; p562 .Omagh Independent Hostel Omagh, County Tyrone; p690 .Dolphin Hotel & Restaurant Inishbofin, County Galway; p420 .Phoenix Vegetarian Restaurant & Accommodation Mt Caherconree, County Kerry; p325 .Rocky View Farmhouse Fanore, County Clare; p383 .Rua Castlebar, County Mayo; p448 .Shiplake Mountain Hostel Dunmanway, County Cork; p280 .

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TOP GREEN PROJECTSThere’s nothing more satisfying than helping, participating in, visiting or even just being aware of projects that are working to protect the very environment that drew you here in the first place.

TOP IRISH FICTIONGetting stuck into some fiction is the best way to gain insight into Irish issues and culture, for there’s no greater truth in Ireland than the story that’s been made up. Here are the essentials to kick-start a lifelong passion; for more information, see p55 .

MUST-SEE IRISH MOVIESPredeparture planning is always more fun if it includes a few flicks to get you in the mood. The follow-ing films are available on video or DVD. For more information about Irish cinema and TV, see p57 .

Wales

UnitedKingdomDublin

REPUBLIC OFIRELAND

IRE

TOP 101 Ecos Environmental Centre (Ballymena,

County Antrim; p668 ) is a visitor centre dedicated to alternative energy sources and sustainable technology.

2 Copper Coast GeoPark (Tramore, County Waterford; p211 ) is an Anglo-Irish enclave with the dubious distinction of being the only village in Ireland without a pub.

3 Cork English Market (Cork city, County Cork; p248 ) is where locally and organically produced food is displayed so alluringly, sold so bounteously and tastes so good.

4 Jampa Ling Buddhist Centre (Bawnboy, County Cavan; p562 ) has Galupa Buddhism, philosophy and meditation.

5 T Bay (Tramore, County Waterford; p212 ), Ireland’s biggest surf school, runs eco-walks around one of Europe’s largest intertidal lagoons.

6 Sonairte (Laytown, County Meath; p537 ), also called the National Ecology Centre, is devoted to promoting ecological awareness and sustainable living.

7 Bog of Allen Nature Centre (Lullymore, County Kildare; p180 ), tells the history of Ireland’s bogs through a get-your-hands-dirty interactive program of learning.

8 Coosan Cottage Eco-Guesthouse (Athlone, County Westmeath; p526 ) is an ecofriendly guest cottage, utilising wind-generated electricity and sawdust-pellet heating.

9 Donegal Craft Village (Donegal town, County Donegal; p466 ) is a cluster of craft studios showcasing locally produced pottery, iron-work, hand-woven fabrics, jewellery and more.

10 Rossinver Organic Centre (Rossinver, County Leitrim; p524 ) has courses on organic horticulture and sustainable living.

1 Dubliners (1914) by James Joyce

2 The Book of Evidence (1989) by John Banville

3 The Butcher Boy (1992) by Patrick McCabe

4 Paddy Clarke Ha Ha Ha (1993) by Roddy Doyle

5 The Ballroom of Romance & Other Stories (1972) by William Trevor

6 The Third Policeman (1967) by Flann O’Brien

7 Amongst Women (1990) by John McGahern

8 All the Names Have Been Changed (2009) by Claire Kilroy

9 Brooklyn (2009) by Colm Toibin

10 Angela’s Ashes (1996) by Frank McCourt

1 Bloody Sunday (2002; Paul Greengrass)

2 The Dead (1987; John Huston)

3 My Left Foot (1989; Jim Sheridan)

4 The Crying Game (1992; Neil Jordan)

5 Garage (2008; Lenny Abrahamson)

6 Inside I’m Dancing (2004; Damien O’Donnell)

7 Once (2007; John Carney)

8 Adam & Paul (2004; Lenny Abrahamson)

9 The Magdalene Sisters (2002; Peter Mullan)

10 Michael Collins (1996; Neil Jordan)

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Silver Linings by Martin Fletcher is a compelling portrait of Northern Ireland at odds with its bruised and tarnished image as a war-scarred region. Northerners on both sides of the divide are friendly, funny and as welcoming as anyone else on the island.

Vitali’s Ireland by Vitali Vitaliev is a minutely observed account of 21st-century Ireland, contrasted with the country a century earlier: the country appears to have changed beyond all recognition, but upon close inspection, much remains the same – for good and ill!

A Secret Map of Ireland is Rosita Boland’s brilliantly insightful tale of her travels across the 32 counties, uncovering stories, myths and fascinating details about the counties, towns and villages she comes across.

The Oxford Illustrated Literary Guide to Great Britain and Ireland traces the movements of famous writers who have immortalised various towns and villages in Ireland.

The Height of Nonsense by Paul Clements is a fascinating story of Irish quirks, eccentrics and oddities, and travelling the GMRs (Great Mountain Roads) in search of the truth about druids, banshees, highwaymen and loose women.

INTERNET RESOURCES The internet has become an indispensable planning tool for travellers. Ireland is well wired, so there’s a lot of useful information available online. Here are a few sites to get you started.Blather (www.blather.net) Its motto is ‘talking shite since 1997’, and this wry webzine delivers, dishing out healthy portions of irreverent commentary on all things Irish. It’s a savvy way to get up to date on current events and attitudes.Entertainment Ireland (www.entertainmentireland.ie) Countrywide listings for clubs, theatres, festivals, cinemas, museums and much more. It’s well worth consulting this site as you plan your next move in Ireland.Fáilte Ireland (www.discoverireland.ie) The Republic’s tourist board information site has heaps of practical info. It features a huge accommodation database with photos.Fine Gael (www.ripoff.ie) Not the website of the actual political party, but an antigovernment website sponsored by the main opposition party, whose aim is to win favour by appearing onside with the poor consumer; we don’t buy it, but it does tell it like it is in relation to prices.Irish Election (www.irishelection.com) The best of Irish political blogging, this is a great site to familiarise yourself with the issues dominating the Irish scene. Irish Times (www.irishtimes.com) Ireland’s newspaper of record online, this has all the latest news, features and reviews. Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com) Comprehensive travel information and advice.Northern Ireland Tourism (www.discovernorthernireland.com) Northern Ireland’s official tourism information site is particularly strong on activities and accommodation.

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CLASSIC ROUTES GO WEST! One Week/Mayo to West Cork Begin at the excavated Céide Fields ( p444 ) in Mayo. Wind your way round the coast, stopping at some of Ireland’s wildest beaches, to the pretty village of Pollatomish ( p443 ). Head to the pub-packed heritage town of Westport ( p435 ), continuing past Croagh Patrick ( p434 ) and through Leenane ( p421 ) – situated on Ireland’s only fjord – to Connemara National Park ( p421 ). Take the beautiful coastal route, passing Kylemore Abbey ( p420 ) and Clifden’s scenic Sky Road ( p418 ) through pretty Roundstone ( p416 ), or else try the stunning wilderness of the inland route through Maam Cross to Galway ( p390 ). Move on to the fishing villages of Kinvara ( p423 ) and Ballyvaughan ( p383 ) in the heart of the Burren ( p376 ) and visit the ancient Aillwee Caves ( p385 ). Explore the Dingle Peninsula ( p317 ) before following the Ring of Kerry ( p300 ), ending in Killarney National Park ( p295 ). Continue down the Beara Peninsula ( p281 ) to the Italianate Garinish Island ( p282 ), with its exotic flowers. Follow the coast to Cork ( p242 ) through Castletownshend and the fishing village of Union Hall ( p268 ).

Itineraries

SeaIrish

OCEANATLANTIC

Union Hall

Cork

Aillwee Caves

Ballyvaughan Kinvara

Galway Roundstone

Abbey Kylemore

Leenane

Clifden

Westport

Pollatomish Céide Fields

National ParkKillarney

National ParkConnemara Patrick

Croagh

IslandGarinish

PeninsulaBeara

of KerryRing

PeninsulaDingle

BurrenThe

This tourist trail takes you past

some of Ireland’s most famous

attractions and through spectacu-

lar countryside. It’s only about 300km so you could man-age it in two days,

but what’s the point? You won’t

be disappointed on this route.

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THE LONG WAY ROUND Three Weeks/Starting & Ending in Dublin Start your loop just north of Dublin at the Casino at Marino ( p121 ) – not a place to cash in your chips but a 19th-century Italianate trompe l’oeil mansion. Continue north to the mind-blowing Neolithic necropolis at Brú Na Bóinne ( p533 ), built before the Great Pyramids were even a twinkle in a Pharaoh’s eye. Continue north to Mellifont Abbey ( p552 ), Ireland’s first Cistercian abbey, and on to the pretty village of Carlingford ( p555 ) on the lough, with its 16th-century buildings. Work your way through the Mourne Mountains – hiking to the top of Slieve Donard ( p619 ) – to the Ards Peninsula ( p608 ) and Strangford Lough ( p612 ). Take a Black Taxi tour in Belfast ( p585 ) before moving northwest to the Unesco World Heritage site of Giant’s Causeway ( p656 ), best enjoyed at sunset. Continue around the stunning coastline of north Donegal, stopping at gorgeous Killyhoey Beach ( p483 ), then on to beautiful Glenveagh National Park ( p489 ). Head south through the monastic ruins of Glencolumbcille ( p474 ) and into lively Sligo ( p450 ), where you can climb the Stone Age passage grave Carrowkeel ( p457 ) for panoramic views of Lough Arrow. For the west coast as far as Cork, follow the Go West! route ( opposite ). From Cork, head east to Fota Wildlife Park ( p255 ) for a picnic and then on to Dungarvan Castle ( p213 ), with its unusual 12th-century shell. Drive around the picturesque Hook Peninsula ( p197 ), stopping for ice cream in the seaside town of Dunmore East ( p210 ). Spot the unusual varieties of geese in the famous Wexford Wildfowl Reserve ( p193 ) before moving on to County Wicklow and Wicklow Mountains National Park ( p157 ). Head back to Dublin and settle into a well-deserved pint of Guinness at the Long Hall ( p142 ).

LoughStrangford

SeaIrish

OCEANATLANTIC

BeachKillyhoey

Glencolumbcille

ReserveWildfowlWexford

EastDunmore

Dungarvan

ParkWildlife

Fota

Cork

Carrowkeel

Sligo

Giant's Causeway

Carlingford

AbbeyMellifont

Brú Na Bóinne

MarinoCasino at

DUBLIN

BELFAST

National ParkWicklow Mountains

National ParkGlenveagh

ArrowLough

PeninsulaHook

PeninsulaArds

Donard(853m)

Slieve

A loop to give you a real feel for Ireland’s savage and spectacular coastline, as well as the heart of its long history. Four days will see you complete the 750km that make the full circle, but little else, so it’s best done in a couple of weeks.

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TIP TO TOE Two Weeks/Derry to Wexford Begin by walking the city walls of Derry (Londonderry; p633 ) and explor-ing its fascinating history. Delve deeper at one of Ireland’s best museums, the Ulster American Folk Park ( p690 ), which reproduces a typical 19th-century Ulster village at the time of mass emigration to America. Just south of here, the town of Omagh ( p690 ), site of one of the worst single atrocities in the North’s history (a car bomb), acts as a stark reminder of the region’s tragic political history. From here, head south to Castle Coole ( p683 ), a National Trust–restored 18th-century mansion, before spending an afternoon boat-ing or fishing on Lough Erne ( p683 ). For more watery pastimes you can’t beat County Cavan ( p557 ), which has a lake for every day of the year. Hire a boat in Mountnugent and fish on Lough Sheelin ( p560 ) before moving on to Tullynally Castle’s ( p530 ) Chinese and Tibetan gardens in Westmeath. The Seven Wonders of Fore ( p530 ), Westmeath’s answer to the Seven Wonders of the World, are less awe-inspiring but will keep you entertained for an hour or two before a wander around the splendid Belvedere House ( p528 ), which overlooks Lough Ennell, with its fascinating (if somewhat chequered) history. Place a bet at Kilbeggan Races ( p528 ) while emboldened by a tipple of fine whiskey from Locke’s Distillery ( p527 ). Hike up the beautiful Slieve Bloom Mountains ( p503 ) for the best view of the midlands before moving south to the delightful village of Inistioge ( p237 ) in County Kilkenny, with its quaint village square and rambling estate, Woodstock Park. In County Wexford have a picnic in the John F Kennedy Arboretum ( p201 ) before a visit to the tranquil Cistercian Tintern Abbey ( p198 ).

MountainsSlieve Bloom

SeaIrish

OCEANATLANTIC

Kilbeggan

Abbey Tintern

Arboretum John F Kennedy

Belvedere House

of Fore Wonders

Seven

Castle Tullynally

Cavan

Coole Castle

Omagh

Folk Park Ulster American

Derry

Inistioge

SheelinLough

ErneLough

This 400km north–south

route covers it all: from Ulster’s fine architecture and

heritage, through the midlands and

its abundance of lakes, to the

beautiful country-side of the sunny

southeast. You will enjoy this selection of different tastes.

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ROADS LESS TRAVELLED AN ECO KIND OF GREEN One Week/Dublin to Tramore Start at Dublin’s Cultivate ( p22 ), Ireland’s only sustainable living information centre, or the National Ecology Centre, Sonairte ( p537 ), in Laytown. For some eco-R&R, stop by − or even stay at − the Jampa Ling Buddhist Centre ( p562 ). Get tips on organic horticulture at the beautiful gardens of the Rossinver Organic Centre ( p524 ) in north Leitrim. Up north, stay at Anna’s House B&B ( p612 ), Strangford Lough, County Down, or the Omagh Independent Hostel ( p690 ), County Tyrone. Out west, bed down at Ardtarmon House ( p460 ), in the shadow of Ben Bulben, County Sligo, and tuck into some eco-nosh at Rua ( p448 ), down the road in Castlebar, before a visit to the New Agey Brigit’s Garden ( p415 ). Offshore on the Aran Islands, Inishmaan’s Tig Congaile ( p409 ) might be the only place in Ireland with freshly ground Guatemalan coffee and sea-vegetable soup on the same menu. To the south, in West Cork, organic local produce is almost a way of life. A great ecofriendly sleeping option is the Shiplake Mountain Hostel ( p280 ), while the superb Ballymaloe House’s cookery school ( p258 ), home to Ireland’s most famous chef, Darina Allen, is the best place to learn the basics of Irish cooking (see also p70 ). Moving east, see the ancient geological formations at the beaches of the Copper Coast European GeoPark ( p211 ), in Annestown. Finally, stop by the cheap ‘n’ cheerful beach resort of Tramore, which has become a haven for New-Age Californians, one of whom runs T-Bay ( p212 ), Ireland’s biggest surf school and a nonprofit organisation promoting eco-awareness through surfing and guided walks.

LoughStrangford

SeaIrish

OCEANATLANTIC

CentreOrganicRossinver

GardenBrigit's

Inishmaan

Laytown

Castlebar

Ardtarmon House

Omagh

HostelMountain

Buddhist CentreJampa Ling

Tramore

Annestown

Ballymaloe

RathowenAthlone

Shiplake

DUBLIN

Ireland’s eco-credentials are only just being established, but here is a selection spread over 500km to prove that travelling sustain-ably can still bring you the best the country has to offer, from the surprisingly rich midlands through the rugged west to the scenic south.

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I T I N E R A R I E S • • R o a d s L e s s T r a v e l l e d l o n e l y p l a n e t . c o m

BEST OF THE ISLANDS Three Weeks/Tory to West Cork Ireland’s outlying islands are many and varied, and offer the visitor an insight into a traditional lifestyle rarely seen in the Western world. Start at the barren and remote Tory Island ( p480 ), off Bloody Foreland in Donegal, a Gaeltacht (Irish-speaking) area with a school of naive painters and a won-derful spot for birdwatching. Joined to the mainland by a bridge, Achill Island ( p439 ), in County Mayo, features a deserted Famine village and dramatic cliffs; Ireland’s largest offshore island, it is renowned for its water sports. Inishturk ( p434 ), just south of Achill, has fewer than 100 inhabitants and gets very little tourist traffic, despite its sheltered sandy beaches. Off the coast of Galway, the three Aran Islands are probably Ireland’s most visited. The largest, Inishmór ( p404 ), has some fine archaeological remains, including the magical fort of Dún Aengus. The middle island, Inishmaan ( p407 ), favourite of the writer JM Synge, is a pleasure to walk around, with its stone walls and tiny fields. The smallest and least visited, Inisheer ( p409 ), best accessed from Doolin in County Clare, has some wonderful wild walks. Some other very special islands to visit are Europe’s most westerly. Uninhabited since 1953, the Blasket Islands ( p327 ), off the Kerry coast, offer the chance for spotting puffins, seals and porpoises. Skellig Michael ( p305 ), off Caherciveen in Kerry, is a Unesco World Heritage site and home to a 7th-century monastery – it’s a breathtaking, truly spiritual place and a highlight of any trip to Ireland. Ornithologists and orators alike will enjoy Clear Island ( p272 ), off the western coast of Cork, famous for its Manx shearwaters and its lively Storytelling Festival in September.

SeaIrish

OCEANATLANTIC

Clear Island

MichaelSkellig

IslandsBlasket

InisheerInishmaan

Inishmór

IslandAchill

IslandInishturk

IslandToryIf you’re one to

appreciate the cultural experi-

ence and simple pleasures of island

life, you won’t want to hurry

along this trail. Take three weeks if you can spare it

and experience the unique differences of Ireland’s islands

properly. Other-wise, try to get in at least a day trip to a few of them.

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TAILORED TRIPS ADRENALINE ADVENTURES If you like your Irish visits served with a shot of adrenaline, start nice and easy with some sail-powered beach buggying, better known as blokarting ( p212 ), on the beach in Tramore, County Waterford. Alternatively, test your skills with some quad biking ( p225 ) in Borris, County Carlow, before heading west to County Kerry, where you can engage in a spot of horse riding ( p320 ) in Dingle. Pick the pace up and take flight with some white-knuckle kitesurf-ing ( p323 ) in Castlegregory. Next, stay firmly on the water and learn the difference between goofy and regular with a surf lesson ( p374 ) in Lahinch, County Clare – you’ll need the lessons later on! Get back on dry land and cross the wilderness of Connemara by hiring a mountain bike in Clifden ( p419 ) or Inishbofin ( p420 ). Afterwards, head for Glassillaun Beach, County Galway, to go scuba diving ( p422 ) in some of the country’s clearest waters, full of colourful marine life brought north by the Gulf Stream. Down the road in Leenane, scramble down on foot to Killary Harbour to sail its sheltered waters in a catamaran ( p421 ). Finally, try out your newly acquired skills and surf on world-class, near-perfect 3m tubes at Bundoran ( p469 ), County Donegal.

IRELAND OF THE ANCIENTS Begin at the stunning Neolithic tombs of Newgrange ( p534 ) and Knowth ( p535 ) in County Meath, in the heart of Brú na Bóinne (the Boyne Palace), where the legendary Irish hero Cúchulainn was conceived. Nearby, stand at the top of the celebrated Hill of Tara ( p539 ), a site of immense folkloric significance and seat of the high kings of Ireland until the 11th century. Across the plain is the Hill of Slane ( p537 ), where St Patrick lit a fire in 433 to proclaim Christianity throughout the land. Venture west to Kells ( p545 ) on the road travelled by Queen Medbh herself in the Irish Stone Age epic, the Táin Bó Cúailnge, pausing to explore the monastic ruins and high crosses before continuing to County Roscommon. Just outside Tulsk village is Cruachan Aí ( p516 ), the most important Celtic site in Europe, with 60 scattered megalithic tombs and burial sites. Head south to Clonmacnoise Abbey ( p511 ), the 6th-century monastic site in County Offaly. Continue south through the heart of the country to the impressive monastic site that sits atop the craggy Rock of Cashel ( p344 ) in County Tipperary. Turn east and head through County Kilkenny, stop-ping at the Cistercian Jerpoint Abbey ( p237 ), at the pretty village of Thomastown. From here, travel northeast to Wicklow and magnificent Glendalough ( p163 ), where the substantial remains of a monastic settlement linger by two lakes – it’s as atmospheric a site as you’ll ever find.

Inishbofin

Borris

TramoreCastlegregory

Killary HarbourGlassillaun

Clifden

Lahinch

Dingle

Bundoran

Glendalough

ThomastownCashelRock of

Clonmacnoise

Cruachan Aí

Hill ofTara

Slane

Brú na BóinneKells

Hill of

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I T I N E R A R I E S • • Ta i l o r e d T r i p s l o n e l y p l a n e t . c o m

CHILDREN ON BOARD Ireland has plenty to offer kids beyond the dubious pleasures of a visit to a museum under the promise, ‘you’ll appreciate this someday.’ Get them surfing ( p326 ) the waves in Dingle, County Kerry. Let them get up close and personal

with abandoned beasts of burden at a donkey sanctuary ( p287 ) in County Cork. If you want to give them a history lesson, make it fun at the Irish National Heritage Park ( p193 ), just outside of Wexford Town. Explore their inner Viking with a Viking tour ( p525 ) in Athlone, County Westmeath, or explore the ruins and assorted wonderments at Lough Key Forest Park ( p517 ) in Boyle, County Roscommon. In nearby County Mayo, watch the kids get harrrdy in the Pirate Adventure Park ( p435 ) at Westport House. Cross the border and go back in time to the 18th and 19th centuries in the Ulster American Folk Park ( p690 ), outside Omagh in County Tyrone. Then return to the 21st century –and beyond – at Belfast’s fun-filled interactive science centre W5 ( p577 ).

THE IRISH PANTRY There’s some great eatin’ in Ireland these days, with culinary surprises waiting to reveal themselves in the unlikeliest corners of the country. If you fancy a gourmet itinerary, start in Belfast with the award-winning French menu at Shu ( p592 ). In neighbouring County Down, tuck into five types of oyster at the Mourne Seafood Bar ( p619 ) in Dundrum, or at Jeffers at the Marina ( p607 ) in the seaside resort of Bangor. Just across the border in County Louth, Carlingford’s Ghan House ( p556 ) is renowned for its exquisite classical cuisine, while dedicated foodies should make the pilgrimage to

Blacklion’s MacNean House & Restaurant ( p561 ) in County Cavan. Head to the southeast to sample the slow food delights at Arlington Lodge ( p208 ) in Waterford City and the crafted fare at the Tannery Restaurant & Cookery School ( p214 ) in seaside Dungarvan. Then, head into the spiritual home of the Irish gourmet movement and cross the border into County Cork. Halfway between Youghal and Cork, Midleton is home to the excellent Farmgate Restaurant ( p257 ), surely one of Ireland’s best. Further west, Kinsale is just full of top nosh, including the Fishy Fishy Cafe ( p263 ), which is only open during the day. Finish up in the slightly shambolic looking but utterly mouth-watering Out of the Blue ( p322 ) in Dingle, County Kerry.

Heritage ParkIrish National

SancturaryDonkey

Folk ParkUlster American

Belfast

WestportBoyleBoyle

Athlone

Dingle

BangorBelfast

Dundrum

Carlingford

Kinsale

DungarvanDingle

Blacklion

Waterford

Midleton

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