101 Whiskies to Try Before You Die
Transcript of 101 Whiskies to Try Before You Die
101WhiskiestoTryBeforeYouDie
IanBuxton
Copyright©2010IanBuxton
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Contents
Introduction
101whiskies
Howtotastewhiskyandusethisbook
Acknowledgements
Furtherresources
Wheretobuy
Picturecredits
Introduction
101WhiskiestoTryBeforeYouDieisawhiskylistwithadifference.Accessiblewhiskyforrealpeople.
Itisnotanawardslist.
Itisnotalistofthe101‘best’whiskiesintheworld.
Itissimply,asitsaysinthetitle,aguideto101whiskiesthatenthusiastsreallyshouldseekoutandtry–lovethemorhatethem–tocompletetheirwhiskyeducation.What’smore,it’spracticalandrealistic.
101WhiskiestoTryBeforeYouDiedoesnotcontainobscuresingle-caskbottlingsthatsoldoutweeksbeforepublicationanditdoesn’tcontainhugelyexpensivewhiskiesthatvirtuallynoonecanaffordtobuyanyway(eveniftheycouldfindthem).
Afterall,what’sthepoint?Imightlookterrificallysmartrecommending,say,theGlenglassaugh40YearsOldthatrecentlywontheInternationalWine&SpiritCompetition’sspecialtrophyfor40YearsOldScotchWhisky.Byonetokenatleast,thatmakesittheverybestsinglemaltScotchyoucanbuy.Apanelofreallywell-informedandexpertjudges(notjustonepersonandnotme)pickeditfromitspeers.Thoughlittleknown,itisvery,verygoodandIcouldbeseentobedoingyouafavourbypointingyouitsway.Butit’s£1,500abottle.Orperhaps,Glenfiddich’s50YearsOld,asnipat£10,000.Areyoureallygoingtonipoutandbuyabottle?Idon’tthinkso.SoIsetmyselfsomeruleswhenIstartedwritingthisbook.
Essentially,theycanbesummedupas:everywhiskylistedheremustbea)generallyavailable(althoughyoumighthavetolookalittlebit,everyoneofthesewhiskiesshouldbeavailablefromadecentwhiskyspecialistorthroughanonlineretailer)andb)affordable(readontoseewhatthatmeans).And,thoughitgoeswithoutsaying,theremustbeareasonfortheirinclusion.Mostlyit’sbecausethey’revery,verygoodexamplesoftheirkind,butsometimestheydeserveyoursupportforotherreasons.Sometimesitwillbebecausetheyare
madebysmalldistillersswimmingagainstatideofcorporateubiquitybutitmightjustbebecauseaparticularwhiskyissimplysounusualthatyoujusthavetotryit.Thatmightmeanremindingyouofsomethingfamiliarthatyouknewaboutbuthad,sortof,forgotten;hopefully,moreoften,itwillpointyoutosomethingnew,unexpectedandsurprising.
Aboveall,thisbookisaboutwhiskiestodrink,notcollect.
SoI’veexcludedone-offbottlingsorsingle-caskreleases,becausethere’ssimplynotenoughtogoaround.AndI’vesimplyignoredwhiskiesthatseemtometobedesignedprimarilyforcollectors.Perhapsmoreimportantly,I’vetakenaveryhard-headedlookatretailprices.I’vebeenhighlyselectiveonceawhiskyrisesabove£100inatypicalBritishwhiskyshop;verycriticalindeedifitcosts£500ormore,andflatlyignoreditoncethepricebreaksthe£1,000barrier.So,sorryTheMacallan57YearOldFinestCutinyourLaliquecrystaldecanter;goodbyeDalmore62YearOldandfarewelltoArdbeg’sritzyDoubleBarrel.Tastythoughyoumaybe,yourfantasypricetagsruleyouout.Let’sgetreal:thisbookisforwhiskydrinkers,notRussianplutocrats.
What’smore,becauseIdon’tbelieveinthesimplisticandreductionistnotionofthe‘world’sbestwhisky’,everything’sinalphabeticalorder.
Andevenmoreunusually,nothinghasa‘score’.Again,Isimplydon’tacceptthatyoushouldfollowoneperson’sindividualpreferencesandmoreorlessidiosyncraticscoringsystem(andthat’sallthatmosttastingbooksare).ThereareseveralreasonswhyIbelieve100-pointscoringsystemsdon’twork,notleasttheideathatanyoneindividualcanconsistentlyandreliablydifferentiatebetweenawhiskyscoring92andonescoring93.Itseemstomepalpablyabsurd,sowe’renotgoingthere.
Better,infact,totakesomeadvicefromAeneasMacDonald,theoriginalsageofwhisky,whoin1930suggestedthatthediscerningdrinkerlearntojudgewhiskywith‘hismother-wit,hisnoseandhispalatetoguidehim’.Soundwords.
But,somanywhiskiessolittletime.Withtheworldofwhiskyexpandingalmostdaily,anexperiencedguidemaybeofsomevalue,ifonlytopointyouinnewdirectionsandsuggestsomeunexploredandrewardingbywaysthatyoumaynothaveconsidered.Scotch,American,Irish,JapaneseandCanadianwhiskiesareallinhere.AsaresomefromSwedenandotherunexpectedproducingnations.
SoIhavestrenuouslyattemptedtobewide-ranginginmyapproachand,sofarasIamable,toincludesomewhiskiesthatIpersonallydon’tparticularlycareforbutwhichareregardedasexemplarsoftheirkind.
Sohow,youmayask,didIassemblethislist?
Thereisnooneanswer.
First,Iusedmyownknowledgeandjudgement.Ihaveworkedinthewhiskyindustryformorethan20years;consultedforanumberofdistillers;beenMarketingDirectorforoneofScotland’sleadingsinglemaltwhiskies;createdandruntheWorldWhiskiesConference;writtenwidelyaboutwhisky;andsatonanumberofcompetitionjudgingpanels.So,thoughI’mstilllearningaboutwhiskyandthere’ssomethingnewtodiscoveralmostdaily,I’mprivilegedtohavetriedalotofdifferentwhiskiesandreckontoknowsomethingaboutthemandthepeoplewhomadethem.
Secondly,Ilookedatwhatmypeersthink.MainlyI’velookedatthemajorawardwinnersatimportantinternationalcompetitionssuchastheInternationalWine&SpiritCompetition(IWSC);theSanFranciscoWorldSpiritsCompetition;WhiskyMagazine’sWorldWhiskiesAwards(fromtimetotimeI’monthejudgingpanelforthatone);andmoreinformalawardssuchasthatfromtheMaltManiacs.TastingnotesbysuchluminariesasF.PaulPacultandthoseappearinginthevariousinternationalwhiskymagazineshaveallservedtodrawdifferentwhiskiestomyattention.
Andfinally,Iaskedsomeofmywhiskyfriendsandcolleaguestonominatetheirfavourites–inthecaseofpractisingdistillerstheyhadtonominateatleastoneoftheircompetitors’whiskiesforeveryoneoftheirown,andthesamerulesoncostandavailabilitywereapplied.Thosewhohelpedarelistedintheacknowledgementspage–manythankstothem.ButIshouldexplainthatIusedmywhiskyfriendsratherliketheancientGreeksusedtheOracles–I’velistenedtotheadvice,butthefinalchoicesweremine.Soblamemeifyoudon’tagreewiththelist.
AsIwritethisthereare,entirelycoincidentally,101whiskydistilleriesoperatingintheUKwhereIlive(yes,thereareatleasttwooutsideScotland),butsuchistheconstantlychangingnatureofthisindustrythatthenumberwillbewrongbythetimeyoureadthis.Aroundtheworldthereare–oh,Idon’tknow,perhaps
twohundredorso.Probablymore.
Andtheykeepopening.Oneoftheexcitingthingsaboutthewhiskyindustryinthelasttenyearshasbeentheproliferationofnewdistilleriesacrosstheworld,especiallyboutiquecraftdistilleriesin‘new’whisky-producingcountries.Manyhaveexcellentandinformativevisitorcentres–butopeninghoursandseasonsvary.Becauseofthat,Ihaven’tgivenspecificdetailsbutsuggestyoucheckonlineorphoneinadvancetoconfirmwhentheyareopen.
WecannowgetwhiskyfromScotland,Ireland,Canada,theUSA,Japan,India,Sweden,Belgium,Switzerland,Australia,France,Austria,theCzechRepublic,England,Wales,Finland,Germany,Holland,Russia,NewZealand,Pakistan,Turkey,SouthKoreaandSouthAfrica.Apparently,thereareevenwhiskydistilleriesinBrazil,Nepal,UruguayandVenezuela.Inevitably,morethanhalfthewhiskiesinthisbookaresinglemaltsfromScotland,withScottishblendsandgrainstakingthetotalfrommyhomecountrytoanimpressive72whiskies.But,reflectingthegrowingpopularity,influenceandqualityof‘worldwhiskies’,morethanaquarterofthoseIhaveselectedarefromtheUSA,Japanandothercountries–andIcanassureyouthatyou’llbeimpressed.
So,whenyouconsiderthatallofthesecountriescanproduceanynumberof‘singlemalt’expressionsdifferentiatedbyage,casktype,finishandsoforth,andmostofthemdo,andthenaddblendedwhiskiesandindigenousnon-Scotchstyles,suchasbourbon,ryeandsoon,tothepotentialuniverse,youcanseethattastingthemrepresentsalifetimeofunremittingtoil.
Oneofthelessonsofthisbookisthatyoudon’thavetospendalotofmoneytofindreallygreatorinterestingwhiskies.Infact,Ididn’treallylookatpriceuntilaftercompletingthefirstdraftofthelist.ThepricerangesindicatedinthetextarebasedonthetypicalUKretailpricefromaspecialistindependentwhiskyshop,andwerecorrectaswewenttopress.Aroundhalfareunder£40.Infact,ifyouboughtabottleofeverythinghereitwouldcostaround£7,100,ifyouwereintheUK(butyou’dprobablybeabletonegotiateadiscount).Ifyoudroppedthethreemostexpensivetherestwouldaveragejustover£56abottle–gocomparethatwiththeworld’sbest-knownwines.Whiskycanbeaseriousbargain!
Here’sthekeytothe1to5scale:Under£25 £25–40 £40–69 £70–150 Over£150
Ofcourse,priceschangeallthetime.Inparticular,taxanddutyrateschange,productsareputonpromotionor,generallylessfavourablyfortheconsumer,‘repositioned’asthemarketingfolkswouldhaveit.Priceswillalsovaryifyouarereadingthisthousandsofmilesawayfrommeinaplacewherecostsmaybehigherforlong-distanceimports,butlessforlocalbottles.
HighratesoftaxationintheUKcomeasaconstantsurprisetovisitorsfrommanycountries,however,whoregularlyask‘whyiswhiskymoreexpensivehereinScotlandthaninmyhome?’Fortheanswer,applytotheGovernmentwho,atthetimeofwriting,takearoundthree-quartersoftheretailpriceofabottleofstandardScotchwhiskyinexcisedutyandVAT.
Thereareseveralthousandwhiskiesoutthere–perhapsevententhousand.Noonereallyknows.So,astheoldjokewouldhaveit,it’stoughworkbutsomeonehastodoit.I’vepicked101foryoutoenjoy,savingyouhoursofjoylesslabour.Youdon’thavetothankme;buyingthebookwilldojustfine.
Eachonehasanentrydescribingthewhiskyandtheproducer,withsomebackgroundinformationthatIhopeyou’llfindusefulandinteresting.Thentherearebrieftastingnotes.Thesearenotintendedtobethebe-all-and-end-all,moreajumping-offpointforyourownexplorationandtohelpexplainwhyeachwhiskymadethecut.You’llalsofindaspacetorecordyourownpurchases,personalfavouritesandtastingnotes.
WithinthesepagesIhopeyou’llfindafewsurprises,perhapsafewoldfavouritesandalsosomebargains.Ihopeyou’llbeinspiredtotrysomethingnewandsharewhatyoulearnwithafewfriends.Thisisn’tbyanystretchofimaginationthecompletelydefinitivewhiskylist.Despitewhatothersmaysay,Idoubtthatsuchathingcanexist.Butitwilltakeyouonawonderfuljourneyofdiscoveryandexplorationand,ifyoumanagetotryall101whiskies,thenyoucandiehappy.
I’dbeinterestedtohearwhatyouthinkofthelistandwhatwhiskiesyou’dsuggestforinclusioninafutureedition.Emailmeatfeedback@101whiskies.com
Meanwhile,sláinte!
1 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailability
Price
JohnDewar&SonsLtdAberfeldy,PerthshireYesWidespreadinternationalavailability
www.dewars.com
Aberfeldy
21YearsOld
It’sagreatshamethisisn’tmorewidelyknownbecauseI’mwillingtoguessthatpeoplewho‘don’tlikewhisky’wouldlikethisandpeoplewhoknowandlikewhiskywouldlikeitalot.
TheDewar’sdistilleryatAberfeldywasbuiltfrom1896–98bytherestless,innovativeandentrepreneurialDewarbrothers,TommyandJohn,whohiredCharlesCreeDoig,thefinestdistilleryarchitectwhoeverlived,todesignitforthem.But,foryears,undertheownershipoftheoldDistillersCompanyLtd,alloftheoutputwentforblendingandthesinglemaltboompassedAberfeldyby.
However,inoneoftheperiodicconvulsivereorganisationsthattheScotchwhiskyindustryindulgesintokeepbankersandlawyersinexpensiveGermanmotorcars,inMarch1998ownershipwastransferredtoBacardiwho,upuntilthen,hadonlyhadaminorinterestinwhisky.Theresultwasawaveofinvestment,includingwhathasbeendescribedbyWhiskyMagazineas‘theultimateScotchwhiskyvisitorcentre’andanumberofexcitingnewproducts.
Thebestoftheseisthis21YearsOldsinglemalt.Aberfeldyisnotedforagentle,heather-honeysweetnessandthiswhiskyisjustdelightful:well-mannered,delicateandsurprisinglycomplex.It’sashameabouttherathersquatanduglybottlebutdon’tletthatputyouoff.
Itmaybeeasiertofindthe12YearOldversion–that’sgood,butthisisalotbetterandwellworththeadditionalmoney.Theextraagereallyroundsoutanddeepensthiswhisky,thesubtletyofwhichwouldtragicallygetlostinablendingvat.ColourWarmgoldandamber.Nose Acreamy,honeyednosewithdriedfruits,heatherflowersandhintsof
coconut.Taste Intensebutnotcloyingsweetness,darkorangemarmalade,vanillaand
oakwood.Mouthcoatingandcreamy.Finish Thisislong,quitespicyandhashintsoflemon.Restrainedandelegant.
2 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailability
Price
ChivasBrothersLtdAberlour,SpeysideYesSpecialists,bettersupermarketsanddutyfree
www.aberlour.com
Aberlour
a’bunadh
Acaskstrengthwhiskyhasquietlybeenmakinganameforitselfoverthepastfewyearsandhasnowattractedquiteacrowdofenthusiasticdevoteeswhopraisethebig,richflavoursofthisSpeysidemalt.
Aberlourdistillerywasestablishedin1879andthenremodelledbytheleadingdistilleryarchitectCharlesDoigsometwentyyearslaterafteradisastrousfire.Itreallycameintoitsownafter1975whenitwasacquiredbytheFrenchgroupPernodRicardandbecametheirleadsinglemaltbrandinthedaysbeforetheirpurchaseoftheSeagramdistilleries(TheGlenlivetinparticular).Todaythedistilleryoffersanexcellent‘AberlourDistilleryExperience’tourwhichiswellworthmakingtheefforttotake(bookingisessential).
Thereareseveraleasilyaccessibleexpressions,andthepossibilityofbottlingyourowndirectfromasinglecaskatthedistillery,buttheonetogoforisthestrangelynameda’bunadh(it’spronounceda-boon-ahandmeans‘theorigin’inGaelic).Itisnon-chillfilteredandatfull-caskstrength,theideabehindtheproductbeingtoreplicatea19th-century-stylewhiskymaturedexclusivelyinSpanishoakolorososherrybutts.So,ifyouliketraditionalMacallanorGlenfarclas,you’regoingtolovethis.
Notethatthisisreleasedinbatches,someofwhichhavebeencriticisedastastingslightlysulphured(aneffectofcasktreatment),soifyoufindabatchthatyouparticularlylike,itmightbeanideatosnapupseveralbottlesbeforeitrunsout.Equally,it’sfuntokeepexperimentingand,perhaps,tasteonebatchagainstanother.Andthisshouldn’tbeaproblem,because,forwhiskyofthisqualityandstrength(it’susuallyaroundthe60%abvmark),it’squiteabargain.Expecttopayabout£35.Colour Richanddark.Nose Amarkedsherrycharacter,possiblyhoneyanddarkfruits.Taste Can be drunk at full strength but develops with water. Big, mouth
filling,Christmascake,driedfruits,possiblysomecitrusandchocolate
notes.Finish Expectadrawn-outfinish,perhapswithevolvingspices,oakandsome
smokynotes.
3 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
AmrutDistilleriesLtdAmrut,Bangalore,IndiaNoSpecialists
www.amrutwhisky.com
Amrut
Fusion
Indianwhisky?Somemistake,surely?Well,no.Indiaisahugewhiskymarketandagiantproducerbut,unfortunately,thevastmajorityofIndianwhiskyismadefrommolasses–andsofarastheEUisconcernedthatmeansit’srumandcan’tbesoldas‘whisky’.
Thisiscurrentlythebasisofamajorandlong-runningtradedispute,withtheScotchwhiskyindustryclaimingthatIndianimportdutiesareanillegalrestraintoftrade,andtheIndianproducerscryingfoulandpointingoutthatmuchoftheirdistillingindustrywassetupbytheBritishinthefirstplace.Today,theIndianindustryisdominatedbyVijayMallya’sUnitedSpirits,producersofsuchfinebrandsasBagpiperandMcDowells.Toaddtotheconfusion,theyalsoownGlasgow’sWhyte&Mackay.ButtheIndianwhiskythathasmadeitintothislistisactuallydistilledbytheirsmallerindependentrival,AmrutDistilleriesLtd,establishedin1948.AccordingtoIndianmythology,whentheGodsandtheRakshasas(demons)churnedtheoceansusingthemountainMeru,agoldenpotcalledthe‘Amrut’sprangoutcontainingtheElixirofLife.
Amrutisrealsinglemaltwhisky;thatistosay,itismadesimplywithmaltedbarley,waterandyeastsoitcanbesoldhere.Andthat’sourgoodfortune,becauseit’sreallyverygood(youdidn’tthinkitwasherejustoutofcuriosity,didyou?).
Fusionisanunusualproduct,uniqueinthatitcombinesIndianbarleyfromtheHimalayaswithpeatedmaltfromScotlandandisbottledatahealthy50%abv.Anddespitethat(anddespitehavingcomehalfwayroundtheworld),it’sprettygoodvalueatatypical£35abottle.Justtrynottothinkofthecarbonfootprintifyou’redrinkingitinTannochbrae!Colour Bright gold. Indianwhiskymatures faster than Scotch so spends less
timeinthecask.Nose Apronouncedwoodimpact,butalsopeat,vanillaandfruit.Taste Surprisingly complex and engaging, the peat mixes with oak, fruit,
chocolateandcaramelshortcake.Finish Yes,youwillfinishthisandwanttofindanotherbottle.Fadestoadry
spiciness.
4 ProducerDistillery
VisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
InverHouseDistillersLtdKnockdhu,Knock,nrKeith,SpeysideNone–visitsbyappointmentSpecialistsandonline
www.ancnoc.com
anCnoc
16YearsOld
YoureallyhavetothinkthatInverHousehavemadelifeunnecessarilyhardforthemselvesbyrebrandingKnockdhuasthestrangeandunpronounceableanCnoc,aGaelicwordmeaning‘thehill’.Thisbestoweduponthewhiskytheunenviabledistinctionofnolongerbeingnamedafterthedistillerythatproducesit,butitwasapparentlydonetoavoidconfusionwithKnockando.
Itseemsashame,becausethereismuchtocommendtheSpeysidesinglemaltsfromthislittle-knowndistillerybetweenKeithandBanff;inparticular,itsresolutelytraditionalstyleofoperation(somethingofasignaturewithInverHouse).Anold-fashioned,cast-ironmashtunisstillused,whilewoodenwashbacksmadefromDouglasfirarefavouredovermodernstainlesssteel.Moreimportantly,traditionisalsoproudlymaintainedbythecontinueduseofawormtub,oneofjustthirteenstillinoperationacrossallofScotland,helpingtogiveanCnocitsdepth,bodyandcharacteristicrich,meatyaroma.
AmildcuriosityaboutthedistilleryisthatithousedtroopsfromtheIndianarmyduringWorldWar2,alongwiththeirmulesandhorses.Apparently,thelocalresidentswouldturnouttowatchcavalrypractice–whattheridersthoughtofthisisnotrecorded!
The16YearsOldisarelativelyrecentrelease,andawelcomeone.Unusuallyitisexclusivelymaturedinex-bourboncasks,resultinginitsdeceptivelypalecolour.Theageisapparentonboththenoseandpalate,however,andthisisacomplexandsatisfyingwhisky,morerobustthantheappearancewouldleadyoutoexpect.InverHousearetobecommendedforreleasingthisat46%abvandnotchillfilteringthewhisky.Hopefullyitwillachievewiderdistributionandgreaterfame.ColourQuitepaleandstraw-like.Nose Slightlymedicinal;lemonzest;vanillatakesover.Taste Vanilla,liquoriceandspicenotes;toffeeandmarmalade.Finish Driftsgentlytoadryconclusion.Holdstogetherwell.
5 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailability
Price
GlenmorangieplcArdbeg,IslayYesWidespreadinternationalavailability
www.ardbeg.com
Ardbeg
10YearsOld
Ican’treallymakemymindupaboutArdbeg.Ilovetheplace,admirewhat’sbeendonethereandacknowledgethelegionsofpassionatefanswhohavesupportedthisiconicIslaydistillerysinceitreopenedin1997.ItalsohasthebestfoodofanydistilleryvisitorcentreIcancalltomind.
ButIalsofeelit’soverlypleasedwithitself.Personally,Ifindthefaux‘homespun’toneofmuchoftheirpromotiongrateswithme,especiallyasitseemstomethatitimpliesthatthisissometinyindependentstrugglingforsurvivalagainstruthlesscorporategiants,wheninfactit’sownedbyoneofthebiggestluxurygoodscompaniesontheplanet(LouisVuittonMoetHennessy).Anddon’tgetmestartedontheludicrous‘luxury’nonsensewhichisArdbeg’s£10,000DoubleBarrel.It’ssimplyabsurd.
However,there’snodenyingthatthecurrentteamhavedoneanexcellentjobandArdbegdoesproducesomedeeplylovedwhiskies,aslongasyoulikethempeaty.For,thisisarguablythebenchmarkIslaywhisky,againstwhichallothersmustbejudgedand,forthat,we’llforgiveitalot.
Thestandardisthe‘entry-level’TenYearsOldexpressionwhichcriticshaveravedabout.ThestillsatArdbegdifferfromothersonIslay,beingtallerandhavingacuriouspurifieronthespiritstill,thecombinationofwhichcontributestothefinesseanddelicacyofwhatisaveryhighlypeatedspirit.Certainlythisistrulycomplexwhiskyand,loveitorhateit,youjusthavetoexploreitsfiner,non-chillednuancesatleastonce.ColourApale, straw-colouredwhisky, setoffby theelegant, tall,greenglass
bottle.Nose Monstrouslypeaty,ofcourse,butwithattractivecitrusnotes;cinnamon
andpears.Taste The initial attack of the peat slowly gives way to cereal and barley
notes;tobacco,coffee,liquoriceandchocolate.Finish Smokyandslightlysweet;hintsofbarleylingerandyoumayfindsome
vanillanotes.
6 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
GlenmorangieplcArdbeg,IslayYesInternationalspecialistoutlets
www.ardbeg.com
Ardbeg
Uigeadail
HavingexpressedmypersonalreservationsaboutArdbeginthepreviousentry,Ireallyshould,inallfairness,addthatatleastonehighlyregardedcommentatorconsidersthisoneoftheverybestwhiskiesintheworldand,yearafteryear,poursalmostunlimitedpraiseonit.
Well,fairenoughifyoulikestrong,peatywhiskies.Theimpossible-to-pronounceUigeadail(it’snamedafterthelochfromwhichthedistillerydrawswater)isbothpeatyandverystrong(54.2%abv).Certainly,it’sbeenamassivesuccessandhasgonedownverywellwithArdbeg’sgrowinginternationalfanclub,solet’sacknowledgeitsappeal.
However,bewarned–thisisamonster.Fullofpeatsmoke,earthinessandlayersofoak,oil,morepeat(constantlyevolving),itisliabletodominateanythingelseyoudrinkthatday.Sosavethisforthelastdramortwooftheeveningandsavouratrulymightywhisky.Itisdefinitelyonetoexplore.
But,beingoldenoughtorememberwhenthisstyleofwhiskycouldhardlybegivenaway,Idohaveawiderconcern.ArdbegandPortEllenweren’tclosed,andotherIslaydistilleriesputonreducedworking,onawhim–blendersfoundthatalittlegoesalongwayandthosesinglemaltdrinkersthatwerearoundatthetimefeltmuchthesame.Thereisanelementoffashioninthecurrentwaveofenthusiasmforveryhighlypeatedwhiskiesand,iftheenthusiastswhoarebuyingthiswereevertomoveon,thentherecouldbeembarrassingquantitiesofnext-to-unsaleablewhiskylyinginScotland’swarehouses.
Youprobablydon’tagree.Justthinkaboutit,isallIask.Meanwhile,enjoythisandsavourallitsgloriousextremity.ColourQuitepaleandstrawcoloured.Nose Hintsoffinosherry,peatandslightlydampleather.Taste Multi-layeredandintense,creamy/oily,peatsmokeandlingeringfires;
earthyyetsweet.Driedfruits.
Finish Verydominant;intriguing,layeredfinishwithspicehints;sweetnessbutultimatelydrying.
7 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailability
Price
CompassBoxWhiskyCompanyn/a–thisisablendinghousen/aMainlyUK,USAandFrance–butcheckonline
www.compassboxwhisky.com
Asyla
I’dreallyliketorecommendalloftheCompassBoxwhiskies,butthatwouldbecheating,soI’vepickedthreetypicaloftheirstyleandapproach.Asylaisthefirst.Ifthatseemstofavourdisproportionatelywhatisstillaboutiqueoperation,evenasitentersitsseconddecade,youneedtounderstandthatthisisaratherdifferentwhiskycompany–aspecialistblendinghouseratherthanadistiller–drivenbythemessianicJohnGlaser,ananglophileAmericanwhostartedhiswhiskycareerwithDiageobutopenedhisown‘house’in2000,literallyblendinghisfirstofferingsinhisownhome.
Itispossibletotireoftheconsciouslyfunkynames.Personallyspeaking,IfindthestyleofCompassBox’swebsiteoverlyself-congratulatoryandtheinsistenceontheirrenegadestyleandfearlessoutsiderstancecansometimesgrate(Glaser’sbusinesscardoncecarriedthetitle‘WhiskyZealot’;ashiscountrymenwouldsay,‘Oh,puh-lease…’).Butthatmissesthepoint.
Asastackofawardswilltestify,CompassBoxisreveredbywhisky’schatteringclassesandispreciousclosetobecomingpartofthewhiskyestablishment(theymightdenythis)andthey’vegottherebymakingvery,verygoodwhiskyindeed.Buttheydon’t,infact,makeanything–whattheydoisblendsuperbsmallbatchwhiskiesfromvery,verycarefullyselectedcasks(mostofthem,ironically,fromGlaser’sformeremployer).
Toaddtoyourpleasuretheyaresuperblypackaged,witheleganttypographyonwittyanddistinctivelabels.Notcheapbutimmenselysatisfying,anyCompassBoxwhiskywillmarkyououtasadrinkeroftasteanddiscernment.Asylausesjustfourwhiskiesintheblend(singlemaltsfromLinkwood,GlenElginandTeaninich,andgrainwhiskyfromCameronBridge),butmarriesthemforupto12monthstocreateasweet,delicateaperitifwhiskythathasrightlywonhugeplaudits.ColourApalegoldenwhisky,setoffbytheelegant,tall,clearglassbottle.Nose Apple,vanillaandsomecerealnotes.Grassy.Taste This is sweet but not cloying; delicate and very subtle with great
complexity.LikeallCompassBoxwhiskiesitisexceptionallysmooth.
Finish Slightlydrying.Somehintsofsmokemaybedetected.
8 ProducerDistillery
VisitorCentreAvailability
Price
MorrisonBowmoreDistillersAuchentoshan,Dalmuir,nrGlasgowYesWidespreadinternationalavailability
www.auchentoshan.co.uk
Auchentoshan
Classic
Itseemsonlyrighttoincludeoneexampleofdistillinginthetrue,traditionalLowlandstyle–thatistosay,tripledistilled,likeIrishwhiskey.Auchentoshanisalsoashowpiecedistillery,beautifullymaintainedbyitsownersMorrisonBowmore(asubsidiaryoftheJapanesegroupSuntory)andthusalwaysapleasuretovisit.
Thedistillerywasestablishedround1817inopencountryside,sincewhichtimeresidentialdevelopmenthassurroundedtheplantanditnowappearsacuriousanachronisminanapparentlyurbansettingclosetothedramaticErskineBridgeovertheRiverClyde.Theownershavecapitalisedonthislocationbyopeningnotjustavisitorcentrebutalsoprovidingconferencefacilitiesforthebusinessmarket.
Therangeofwhiskieshasbeengreatlyincreasedinrecentyearsandanumberofdifferentexpressions,rightupto50yearsold,areoffered.Itislightanddelicateinstylebut,surprisingly,standsupwelltocaskfinishingwhenthisishandledwithduesensitivity–theThreeWoodisafineexampleofwhatcanbedoneandAuchentoshanseemstoagequitegracefully.PresumablythisreflectsshrewdcaskselectionbythepreviousownersandcontinuedinvestmentbySuntory.
TheresultofAuchentoshan’stripledistillingprocessisasmoothandverycleanspiritthatfinisheslifeatover80%abv,unusuallyhighfortheoutputofapotstill.Thereisanadmirablyclearanimateddiagramillustratingthisontheexcellentwebsite–itselfamodelofclarityandunfussyoperation.
Ifyoudon’tknowthiswhisky,thenIsuggestyoustartwiththesignatureClassic.It’snon-agedandthesoft,creamystylewillwinfriendseasily.Ifyoudon’tcareforit,orfindthatyouwantmorebody,don’tdespair–itsgentlestylemakesanexcellentbaseforwhiskycocktails,providinggripwithoutdominatingthedesiredflavour.Colour Pale and delicate – bottled quite young and matured in refill ex-
bourbon,thishasn’tpickedupmuchcolour.
Nose Loadsofvanilla;freshandgrassy.Taste Malty, plenty of marzipan sweetness cut with lemon zest and green
apples.Finish Freshandfloral,butdoesn’tlinger.
9 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
InverHouseDistillersLtdBalblair,Edderton,Ross-shireNoneSpecialists
www.balblair.com
Balblair
Vintage1989
Balblairisjustalongtheroadfromitsmuchbetter-knownneighbourGlenmorangie(seeseparateentry)butmaintainsanaltogetherlowerprofile,perhapsrathergrudgingly.ThedistilleryisoneofaclutchownedandresurrectedbytheAirdrie-basedInverHouseDistillers,themselvesasubsidiaryoftheThaiconglomerateInterBev,whoseemtospecialiseintakingothercompanies’unlovedorphanchildrenandmakingsomethingofthem.
ItisoneoftheoldestdistilleriesstillinexistenceinScotland,datingbackto1790,thoughtherearerecordsofdistillingonthesiteasfarbackas1749.Itwasrebuiltinthe1870sbytheowners,theRossfamily(fouroutofthenineBalblairdistilleryworkersstillhavethesurnameRoss),andappearstohavechangedrelativelylittlesincethen,althoughitwasshutfrom1915to1947.InverHousearen’teasilypersuadedofthemeritsofchangeandtendtoadheretotraditionalmethodswheretheycan.Goodforthem.
Whatisnotparticularlytraditionalisthedecisiontoreleaseaseriesofvintageexpressions,ratherthanthemorenormalagedvariants.However,vintageshaveworkedverywellforTheGlenrothesandthereissomemeritintheargumentthatspiritcharacterdoesvaryfromyeartoyear.Italladdsvarietytoourshelvesandhasdefinitelyworkedinsalesterms.
TheBalblair1989vintagewasaGoldMedalwinnerinthe2007InternationalWine&SpiritsCompetition(IWSC)andjudged‘bestinclass’,andwasabigfavouriteofthecrowdatthe2008EdinburghWhiskyFringe(greatevent,trytogetaticket).Forme,itrepresentsanoptimumcompromisebetweenavailability,priceandquality:itshowsoffthedistillerystylewell,yetremainsaffordableandimmenselyquaffable.Colour Paleamber,mainlyfromex-bourboncasks.Nose Aromasofraisin,greenappleandhintsofbananaandcoconut.Taste Initially slightly harsh but rapidly evolves and warms, with spice,
lemon,raisinandsuggestionsofnuttyoak.
Finish Some dried fruit, but finishes quite quickly. Hints of smoke and amarinenote.
10 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
ChivasBrothersLtdn/a–thisisablendn/aSpecialists
www.ballantines.com
Ballantine’s
17YearsOld
Thisisawhiskywithaconsiderableanddistinguishedpedigree,largelyunappreciatedinitshomemarket.This,forabrandthatmarketsitselfwiththeslogan‘leaveanimpression’,ismorethanslightlyironic.It’sbecausethisisapremiumblendwhich,byandlarge,isastylethattheUKmarketdoesn’t‘get’.Notthatowners,ChivasBrothers,willbeespeciallybotheredbecauseBallantine’sishugeintheFarEastandintaxfree(airports,toyouandme).
Thenameisanhonouredone.TheoriginalGeorgeBallantinewasoneofthegiantsofVictorianwhiskyblending,startingfrommodestpremisesinEdinburghin1827but,lessthan60yearslater,exportingaroundtheworldwithastringofroyalwarrantstohisname.However,asisthewayofthespiritsindustry,thebrandchangedhandsseveraltimesbeforeChivasBrothersacquireditinJuly2005.
BetweentheirastutemarketingandtheskillsoftheirrenownedMasterBlender,SandyHyslop,Ballantine’shascomeroaringback.Fortunately,Hyslophasaveryfinerangeofbothgrainandsinglemaltwhiskiesfromwhichtopick,andtheexperienceandjudgementtoknowhowtoputthemtogether.
Probablythepickofthebunchisthe17YearsOld.Itispleasant,smooth,warmingandmellow.There’splentyofdepththere,butthisdoesnotassertitselfforcefully;ratheritslowlycharmsyouuntilyourealisewhataveryspecialdramitis.Talentedbutself-effacingandmodestwithit:thearchetypalupper-middle-classEdinburghprofessional,then.Itdoesleaveanimpression,afterall.Colour Brightgold.Nose Rounded, balanced and appetising. Some sweet notes and a hint of
smoke.Taste Mellowvanillatones,withmaturityshowinginbalancedwood,smoke
and cream. Surprisingly full bodied for 43% abv and after chillfiltration.
Finish Lingersagreeablyat thebackof thepalate,holding togetherwell andleavinghintsofmarinecharacter.
11 ProducerDistillery
VisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
BeamGlobalSpirits&Wine,Inc.JimBeam,ClermontDistillery,KentuckyYesSpecialistsandonline
www.smallbatch.com
BasilHayden’s
It’sclaimedthattheHaydenfamilycanbetracedbacktotheyearsfollowingtheNormanConquestof1066.Oneancestor,SimondeHeydon,wasknightedbyRichardtheLionheartintheHolyLandduringtheThirdCrusadeinthe1190sandhisson,ThomasdeHeydon,madeJusticeItinerantofNorfolkbyHenryIII.Later,anotherancestorwasgrantedalargeestateinHertfordshire,inreturnforthefamily’smilitaryservice.Eventually,however,theyemigratedtotheVirginiaColonyinthe1660sinsearchofreligiousfreedom.
Itisfurtherclaimedthat,by1796,oneBasilHaydenwasamasterdistiller,bornandraisedinMaryland,wherehelearnedtomakewhiskeyfromrye.MovingtoKentucky,Haydenbeganmakingwhiskeyfromabaseofcorn,butaddedahigherpercentageofryethanotherdistillers,resultinginsmooth,mildbourbon.Well,that’sthestoryanyway.
OneoftheBeamSmallBatchbourbons,BasilHayden’sisuniqueinthatitutilisestwiceasmuchrye(30%)asothersmallbatchreleases(thoughBeamadoptasimilarapproachtothedistillationoftheirOldGrand-Dad).Unusuallyforpremiumbourbon,itisbottledat40%abv,typicallyataroundeightyearsofage,andisthelightestinstyleinthecollection.
Italwaysseemssomewhatover-packagedformytastewithatallandratherfemininebottlestrangelybisectedbyacopperband,butifyoulikeadryandmoredelicatetasteinyourbourbonthenthiswillappeal.It’salsoanexcellentcocktailbase.
LikealltheSmallBatchrange,thiscomesfromthelargeandratherutilitarianClermontdistillery,somewhattheantithesisofthesmallbatchphilosophy,butwhereyoucanatleastvisittheT.JeremiahBeamHomeandtheJimBeamAmericanOutpostandtryarangeofproducts.Colour Palegold.Nose Somecitrusnoteswithmintandspice.Taste Lighttomediumbody,delicateandaromatic.Honey,pepperandfading
spice.
Finish Quiteshortbutholdstogether.
12 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentre
AvailabilityPrice
TheBenRiachDistilleryCompanyLtdBenRiach,Elgin,MorayshireNone–tryphoningforanappointmentSpecialists
www.benriachdistillery.co.uk
BenRiach
CuriositasPeated
BoredofwhiskieswithstrangeGaelicnames?WhynottryonewithsomeLatinpartofarangethatincludesHeredotusFumosusandImportanticusFumosus?Youjusthavetobecuriousabout‘Curiositas’.(It’sanexperimental,heavilypeatedSpeysider.)Thenamesmayseemabitcontrived,buthereisasmallindependentdistillergettingonwithlife,experimentingwithunusualwhiskiesandmanagingtodosowithoutdevelopingapersecutioncomplex.
BenRiach(Ihavenoideawhytheystickacapitalletterinthemiddle)waslyingmothballedfromaround1900untilitwasrebuiltandreopenedsixty-fiveyearslater.It’samiracleitsurvived,butitonlycarriedonuntilAugust2002whenitwasmothballedagain.
However,atthatpointitsluckchanged.Havingbeenownedbyaseriesoflargecorporations,BenRiachwasluckytobeacquiredbyindustryveteranBillyWalker,backedbytwoSouthAfricaninvestors.Theyhaveinvestedheavilyinthedistilleryand,inAugust2008,boughtGlendronachaswell,sothingsareobviouslygoingswimmingly.
Sadly,there’snovisitorcentre(thereisanexcellentoneatGlendronach)butitwouldbeworthaskingnicelyforapeek,especiallyastheymaintainashowpiecefloormalting(sadlyit’snotcurrentlyinuse).
Thereareanumberofreleases,somequitelimited,andexcitingplans.Thedistillerythemselvessaythattheirvisionis‘notonlytomaintainthegreattraditionsofthedistillerybuttobreaknewgroundwith“new”whiskyexpressionsand,borrowingfromthewiderworldofthenobleartofdistilling,to“craft”specialwhiskies,andintriguingexpressions’.Itsoundsexciting.Itisexciting.And,hopingthatthecorporategiantsdon’tswampthem,mytoasttoBenRiachis,‘nilcarborundumillegitimi!’Colour Palegold.Nose Peatonthisone,butnotasaggressiveasoftenfoundonIslay.Heather
flowersinbackground.
Taste Medium weight, lots of peat attack, wood follows on with a spicyfruitiness.
Finish Plentyofthatpeatsmokebutlotsmoregoingontoteaseyouacapiteadcalcem*.
13 ProducerDistillery
VisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
Gordon&MacPhailBenromach,Forres,MorayshireYesSpecialists
www.benromach.com
Benromach
Organic
Thereareanumberof‘organic’whiskiesoutthere–DaMhile(firstmadeatSpringbankbutnowLochLomond);HighlandHarvestblendedandBruichladdichwillsoonlaunchthefirstIslayOrganicwhisky,distilledinDecember2003andnowapproachingfullmaturity.
Personally,Ican’tseethatitmattersallthatmuchinadistilledspiritbut,ifyoucareaboutthesethings,youwillbeinterestedinthisofferingfromBenromach,Gordon&MacPhail’stinydistilleryontheoutskirtsofForres.SofarasIcansee,it’sthefirstandsofartheonlywhiskywherethewholeprocess–rawingredients,distillation,maturation,bottling–iscertifiedtotheSoilAssociation’srigorousorganicstandards.
Thisdoes,however,addsomethingofinteresttothewhiskyenthusiast.ForonethingthebarleyusedformaltingcomesfromaScottishfarm(notallbarleyusedtomakeScotchisScottish,whichmaycomeassomethingofasurprise)andthebarrelsarefromvirginoak.Thisisunusual–it’sgenerallyheldthatbrandnewoakbarrelsexerttooassertiveaninfluenceontheflavourofScotchwhisky,hencethealmostuniversalpresenceofbarrelsthathavebeenseasonedbyprevioususe.However,Benromachappeartohavecarriedthisoffand,whileclearlyevident,thewooddoesnotdominate.
Thedistillersclaimthatthecasksare‘handselected’–anice-soundingbut,asfarasIcansee,essentiallymeaninglessclaimsincesofarasIamaware,noonehasyetinventedamachinetoselectcasks–andmadefromnatural,wild-growingforest.Thetreesarenotsprayedwithpesticidesoranyotherformofchemicalpriortofelling(butthentheywouldn’t,being‘wild’)orindeedafter.
Quitehowyousquareyourgreenconcernswiththefellingofnaturalwildforestisamatterforyourownconscience,ofcourse.You’llprobablydrinkthiswhilereadingtheGuardian.Colour Rich,deepgold.Nose Lotsofwoodimpact,ofcourse,butfruitsandvanillapods.
Taste Woodwetakeforgrantedhere,butfruitcompoteandsomesweetnessalsoevident.
Finish Aglowofliberal,green-tintedvirtue.
14 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
HeavenHillDistilleries,Inc.Bernheim,Louisville,KentuckyYesSpecialists
www.bernheimwheatwhiskey.comseealsowww.heaven-hill.com
Bernheim
OriginalWheatWhiskey
‘Unique’and‘original’aregrosslyover-usedterms,thoughIthinkprobablyjustifiedhere.ThisAmericanwhiskeyismadewithwinterwheatasitsprincipalingredient(aminimumof51%)alongwiththemoreconventionalrye,barleyandcorn.Assuch,itisthefirstreallynewAmericanwhiskeysinceProhibitionandisarguablyrevivingadistillingstylefromthe1700s.Naturally,astheworld’sonlystraightwheatwhiskey,ithasattractedalotofattentionfromenthusiastsanxiousforanewtastesensation.Atthetimeofwritingitistheonlyexampleofthisstyle,thoughpresumably,ifitssuccesscontinues,we’llseeotherdistillersofferingsomethingsimilarinthenearfuture.
Thedistilleryitselfhashadaninterestinghistory.ItwasbuiltonthesiteoftheoldAstorandBelmontdistilleries,whichweredemolishedbyUnitedDistillers,theforerunnerofDiageo,beforethebrandnewBernheimplantwasconstructedin1992.UnderDiageobourbonwasnotregardedasapriorityand,in1999,theHeavenHillCompanyacquiredthefacility,whichtodaymakesitthelastprivatelyowneddistilleryinKentucky.Amongotherbrands,HeavenHillBourbonandRittenhouseRyeisdistilledhere,allofwhichcanbeseeninthefinenewBourbonHeritageCentre,WhiskyMagazine’s2009VisitorAttractionoftheYear(thereisa$50‘behindthescenes’tour).BernheimOriginalisdistilledherebutagedforaminimumoftwoyearsinnewcharredwhiteoakbarrelsinRickhouseYatHeavenHill’ssiteatBardstown,NelsonCounty.
Launchedin2005BernheimOriginalWheatWhiskeyhasbenefitedfrominterestinsmallbatchproductionandcraftdistillation.Asaninnovativesalutetotraditionitisinterestingbutthewhiskeyitselfholdsupwell.Colour Pale,especiallybycomparisontobourbon.Nose Adelicatenoseoffersbutteredtoast,spicesandsomefruits.Cleanand
refreshinglemonzest.Taste Fruitandnut.Mediumbodied;sweetbutnotcloying.Finish Crispandspicy.Hintsofnuts.
15 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailability
Price
BurnStewartDistillersLtdn/a–thisisablendn/aWidespreadinternationalavailability
www.blackbottle.com
BlackBottle
IwasreallyhopingtowriteaboutBlackBottle’s10-year-oldbrother.Thiswaslaunchedin1998but,sadly,hasbeenwithdrawn,lastingasabrandonlyslightlylongerthanthewhiskyinthebottle.However,ifyou’rereallyquickyoumightfindtheoddbottleonadustyshelfsomewhere.Ifso,grabitwithouthesitation,especiallyifyoulikethepeatystuff.
Thestandardstyleismorethanrespectable,however.It’soneofthoseclassicVictorianblendsthatstartedlifeinagrocer’sshop,inthiscaseinAberdeen,andwentontochangethefortunesofthefamilyfirm,GordonGraham&Co.And,asisthewayofthesestories,eventuallythefamilyhadtosellupandthebrandwentthroughaseriesofchanges,somelessthansuccessful.
EventuallyitendedupownedbyBurnStewartDistillerswho,withoutlavishingmoneyonit,havegivenitatleastsomeofthetenderlovingcareitcriedoutfor.Theyhavetreateditwithappropriaterespectandimprovedthequality(actually,that’sarecurringcommentonanumberoftheirwhiskiesgenerally–seeDeanstonandTobermory,inparticular).
Apparently,initsearliestdays,eachbottlewaswrappedintissuepaperwhichcarriedthisverse,generallyattributedtoWalterLandor:
IfuponmythemeIrightlythink,TherearefivereasonswhyIdrink:Goodwine.Afriend.BecauseI’mdry.BecauseImightbebyeandbye.Oranyotherreasonwhy!
WhyyoumightwanttodrinkBlackBottleistoenjoyabig,smoky,Islay-dominatedblend(there’sabitofDeanstonintherealso,butit’sratherswampedbythepeat)thatisrathermorerefreshingandeasiertodrinkthanmanyotherpeat-dominateddrams.It’snotexpensiveeither,makingitagoodeverydaystandby.Colour Pale,brightgold.
Nose Surprisinglylight,freshandfruitywithpeatinthebackground.Taste Well balancedwith a delightful sweetness acting as a kind of smoke
extractor!Finish Thepeatnotesstarttocomethroughattheendasthewhiskydiesaway;
moreembersthansmoke.
16 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentre
Availability
Price
HighlandDistillersn/a–thisisablendTheFamousGrouseExperienceatGlenturret,nearCrieffWidespreadinternationalavailability
www.thefamousgrouse.comseealsowww.black-grouse.com
BlackGrouse
ThereseemspreciouslittlepointintellinganyoneaboutTheFamousGrouse,asithaslongbeenestablishedasScotland’sbest-sellingblendedScotch,supportedbythosevaguelyannoyingbutactuallymildlyamusingTVcommercialswiththeear-wormofatune–soIwon’t.Ifdesperate,youcanlearnmoreattheirwebsite(Ifinditrathertiresomeandcontrived;mightjustbeme)orevenvisitTheFamousGrouseExperienceatGlenturretdistillerynearCrieff,essentiallyanover-blownvisitorcentre,shopandseveralrestaurants,andtrytofindthetinydistillerysomewhereinthemiddleofitall.
Butsomethinghasbeenstirringinthenestinrecentyearsandthegrousehasbroughtforthaclutchofinterestingnewfledglingswithsomediscreettestmarketinggoingonastheytrytostretchthebrand.Twothathavesuccessfullyflownthenest(sorry,that’sthelasttediouspun)aretheSnowGrouse,aharshlychill-filteredblendedgrain,aboutwhichthelesssaidthebetter,andtheBlackGrouse.
It’scuriousthatitshouldfollowimmediatelyonfromBlackBottle,becausethisisanotherIslay-influenced,peatyblend.Ironic,then,youmaythink,thatHighlandDistillerssoldtheironlyIslaydistillery(Bunnahabhain)in2003(notthatitwasparticularlynotedforpeatedwhiskiesatthattimeanyway).
Anyway,notingthefashionforsmokywhiskies,theblendershavefashionedthissmoothandaromaticdrop,whichseemstobefindingfavouramongpeatfreaks,notleastforitscompetitivepricing.TheFamousGrousepack(orcovey)appearstonumbernineandcountingnow,thoughIdaresaymorewillhavehatchedbythetimethisgetsintoprint(sorry,Ididn’teventrytoresistit).ColourAmature,rich,copperygold.Nose Smokyandspicybutnotassertiveorharsh.Taste Pleasantly well-balanced, smooth and mouth coating; some signature
GrousesweetnessbutdevelopsspiceandfruitcharacterasSpeysideandIslaymerge.
Finish Cocoaandspicesbutwithafadingsmokecharacter.
17 ProducerDistillery
VisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
Co-ordinatedDevelopmentServicesLtdBladnoch,Wigtown,KirkcudbrightshireYesSpecialists
www.bladnoch.co.uk
Bladnoch
8YearsOld
Isthisthebestwhiskyinthisbook?Probablynot,butyoushouldstillbuyabottle–andhere’swhy.
Bladnoch,oneoftheverylastLowlanddistilleriesandScotland’smostsoutherlydistillery,wasclosedinJune1993byUDV(nowDiageo).AnIrishbuilderandpropertydeveloper,RaymondArmstrong,boughtthesite.
Unlikelyasitnowseems,heplannedtoredevelopthebuildingsforhousing.Butthewhiskygodswerenottobesoeasilydistractedand,aftersometime,Armstrongbegantounderstandwhatthedistillerymeanttothelocalcommunity.Sohedeterminedtostartdistillingagain.
Thatwasn’tquiteaseasyasitsoundsandUDV,whohadsoldonthestrictunderstandingthatBladnochwastobetakenoutofproduction,tooksomepersuadingtopermitevenlimiteddistilling.But,attheriskofracialstereotyping,Armstronghastheblarneyandisbothpersistentandcharming.Eventuallyhegotthemtorelentand,inDecember2000,Bladnochwentbackintoproduction.
Forthisheattainedtherankofwhiskyheroandisreveredamongaficionados.Heisalsoathoroughlyamenableandagreeablefellow,happytopassthetimeofdaywithyouifyoudropin,andanall-roundgoodegg.Today,thesiteispleasantlybusy,hasacharminghomespunvisitorcentreandtheyrunanopen-spiritedandgenerousdiscussionforumontheirwebsite.
ThefirstwhiskydistilledunderArmstrong’sbenevolentandaffableownershipwasreleasedinOctober2009attheWigtownBookFestival.Buyabottleandhelpkeepadreamalive:it’sanobleandworthycause.Everybottlesoldhelps.Colour Palestraw.Nose Lemonzest,oakandvanilla.Slightlyspiritybutwithnuttysuggestions.Taste Lighttomediumbody,butmouthcoating.Loadsofvanillaandcrème
brûléeflavours.
Finish Not the longest finish ever, light with some spice notes. Just buy itanyway.
18 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentre
AvailabilityPrice
BerryBros&Ruddn/a–thisisablendNo–butvisittheirLondonshopSpecialists
www.bbr.com
BlueHanger
Toppeople’swinemerchantsBerryBros&Rudd,withtheirelegantpremisesinLondon’sStJames’sStreet,isnotthefirstplaceyou’dgotofindabargain.Butthereisonelurkingthere.Remember,whileyoumightassociatethemwithclassedgrowthclaret,thesearethefolkswhocreatedCuttySarksotheydoknowtheirwhisky.
Thislittlecrackeriswhat’sknownasablendedmalt;thatistosay,ablend(ormixture)ofseveralsinglemaltswithnograinwhiskyatallallowedtotheparty.Berry’swhiskyguyisthehighlyregardedDougMclvor.YouknowallyouneedtoknowaboutDougwhenItellyouthatofalltheblendersintheScotchwhiskyindustryhewastheoneentrustedwiththesamplesfromthelateMichaelJackson’s*whiskylibrarytocreateamemorialblend.
Forthisfourthrelease,DoughascombinedthreeSpeysidemalts:GlenElgin,GlenlivetandMortlach,rangingfrom16to34yearsold.Hehimselfdescribesthewhiskyashaving‘astronginfluencefromSherrycasksbutItrytoreinthisintoofferbalanceandcomplexityfromtheothercasks’.That’salittlemodest:thepreviousreleaseofBlueHangerwasacomfortablewinnerintheblendedmaltclassinthe2008WorldWhiskiesAwardsandit’sgenerallyagreedthatwiththisfourthreleasehehassurpassedeventhathighstandard.What’smoreagreeableisthatit’sbottledat45.6%andyouwillpayaround£60forabottle.Justpraytheydon’tdecidetoputitinsomelavishpackaging.
TheunusualnamecomesfromWilliamHanger,3rdLordColeraine,aloyalcustomerofBerry’sduringthe18thcentury.Hewasrenownedforwearingstrikingblueclothes,andgainedthesobriquet‘BlueHanger’.Youdon’thavetodressuptoshopthere,butItoldyoutheywereposh.ColourDark–ageandsherrycasksshowinghere.Nose Richandpromising;stewedfruitsandsomesuggestionofcitrus.Taste Leather, vanilla and stewedpear hints developing to cream fudge and
richorange.Fullbodied.Finish Dry,withhintsofsmokeandnuts.
19 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
Glenmorangieplcn/a–thisisablendn/aSpecialists
BNJ
BailieNicolJarvie
What’sthisdoinghere?Youmaywellask,sinceitseemstomethattheownersclearlydon’tcare.BailieNicolJarvie(‘BNJ’toitscoterieofdedicatedfans)appearstobetheunlovedand,itwouldseem,unwantedruntofthelitterintheGlenmorangiestable.Buttheyhaven’tkilleditoffwithneglectanddisinterest,norhavetheymanagedtosellittosomeonewhowouldlavishonitthetenderlovingcarethatitsoevidentlydeserves(though,aswegotoprint,thereareunconfirmedrumoursthatit’sbeingofferedforsale,soitmaybeinnewhandsbythetimeyoureadthis).
Theblendhasbeenaroundforyears(Ihaveseenaverylovelypre-wardecanterinaHighlandshootinglodge–reallythiswhisky’snaturalhabitat)andisreputedtocontainanuncommonlyhighpercentageofsinglemaltwhisky,mostprobablyGlenmorangieandGlenMoray.Theresultisasubtleandcomplex,thoughrelativelylight-bodied,blendthathasquietlyattractedadmirersamonginformeddrinkers.
It’sentirelyirrelevantbutitalsohasagreatlabel.JustthoughtI’dmentionit,asitmarksyououtasadrinkeroftasteanddiscernment,capableoflookingbeyondritzypackagingtotimelesselegance.Moreimportantly,itisfantasticvalue.
Thatmightexplaintheowners’reluctancetopushsales:withthismuchtop-qualitysinglemaltintheblendthepriceissimplytoolowifitbecomesasuccess,especiallygiventhecostofbuildingabrand.Sogetinfast.Fillyerboots.Thiscan’tlastandyouneedtogetsomewhileyoustillcan.Colour Paleandinteresting.Nose Fresh and floral, with theGlenmorangie influence evident. Pears and
grassynotes–veryelegant.Taste A very well-balanced, well-mannered whisky. Just a hint of smoke
coveringdelicateperfumednotes;freshfruitandhazelnuts.Finish Subtleanddelicate.Arapierofawhiskybutwithakilleredgeofspice,
chocolateandtoffee.
20 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
MorrisonBowmoreDistillersBowmore,IslayYesSpecialists
www.bowmore.co.uk
Bowmore
Tempest
Islay’soldestdistillery(foundedin1779,orpossiblyevenearlier)retainsafloormaltingwhichproducesaroundonethirdofthemaltedbarleyrequiredbytheoperation.Youcantakeatourwhichincludesthemaltingfloorandyoumaybepermittedtolookintothekilnwithitshairclothfloor(theperforatedmetalsheetontowhichthegrainisspreadtobedried).Evenwithnofireunderneath,thewholeplaceretainstherichlyaromatic,almostpungent,smellofpeatsmoke.
Andthat,ofcourse,iswhatIslayisreallyallaboutandwhatmakesthewhiskiessospecial.Formymoney,Bowmoreisoneofthebetterbalanceddramsproducedhereandthepeatcontent(measuredinpartspermillionofphenols)isalittlelowerthansomeofitsmoreassertiveneighbours.Notthatthisshouldmakeyoumakethemistakeofthinkinganylessofit.Thisisveryfinewhiskyandishighlysoughtafter–rareandoldexpressionsofBowmoreareoneofthemostvaluableofwhiskycollectablesandfeatureregularlyinwhiskyauctions.Indeed,an1850bottlingsoldinSeptember2007forathenworld-recordpriceof£29,400,thoughnotwithoutattractingsomecontroversyandspeculationastoitsauthenticity.Presumablythebuyerwashappy.
However,youcanpickupabottleoftheirTempest–atasty,caskstrength,non-chillfiltered,10-year-oldBowmoreforaround£40,whichmakesitsomethingofabargain.It’llneverbeworth£29,000butthat’snotthepoint.Thisisonetodrinkandsavour,andisprobablymycurrentfavouritefromanextensiveandimpressiverangethathasenjoyeddeservedsuccessinrecentyears.
Try,ifyoucan,togettothedistillery.ThetouriswellmanagedandthebaratthevisitorcentreoffersastunningviewoverLochIndaal,whichiscapableofsoothingthesoulofeventhemoststressed-outurbansophisticate.Colour Brightgold.Nose Peatsmokeandsalt,hintsoforangecrèmebrûléeandhoney.Taste ThesignaturesubtleBowmorepeatsmoke to the fore,withsaltanda
playfulcitrusnote.
Finish Amaritimefarewell,peatsmokeoverastormysea,butcleanandfresh.
21 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailability
Price
BruichladdichDistilleryCompanyBruichladdich,IslayYesSpecialistsandsomesupermarkets
www.bruichladdich.com
Bruichladdich
12YearsOldSecondEdition
IspentalongtimeponderingoverwhetherornottoincludeBruichladdichandeventuallydecidedthat,despitewhatyou’reabouttoread,Ilovethemreally.Trytokeepthatinmind!
Mindyou,theydomakeithard.Ifit’snotthepreposterousclaimsontheirwebsite(‘pre-industrialdistillingtechniques’indeed?Fromadistillerybuiltin1881…),orwhatseemstothiscommentatoratleastapersistentlychippyattitudeandobsessivebeliefthateveryoneisouttodothemdown,thenitmustbethetediouslyself-aggrandisingclaims(apparently,theyare‘TheMaltCrusaders:fiercelyindependent,non-conformist,innovative–theenfantterribleoftheindustry’).Infact,they’reindangerofbecomingtheMillwallfansofwhisky(‘noonelikesus,wedon’tcare’).
Actually,despitethewavesofsycophanticpublicity–atleastoneratherobsequiousbook,regularTVappearancesandadocumentaryhasbeenbroadcastaboutthem(publicitythattheaveragemarketingmanagerwouldkillfor)–thetruthisthatnoone’sthatbotheredbytheirantics.Ifonlytheywouldconcentrateonmakingwhiskysincetheydoitsovery,verywell.
Butthedifficultyhereisfindingonetopick.Bruichladdichare(in)famousforanever-endingseriesofreleasesandfinishes(exceptinBruichladdich-speakthey’renot‘finishes’,sonowI’llbeinevenmoretrouble)thatrolloffIslaywithmind-numbingfrequency.Thereisasortofstrangelogic,butitreliesonhavingaveryBruichladdich-centricworldviewtoappreciateit.
Anyway,justtobeclear:thedistilleryisawonderfultimecapsule;thepeoplearepassionate;theymakewonderfulwhiskyandaren’tafraidtotrynewthings;andtheyhavebroughtalotofheat(andsomelight)totheScotchwhiskyscene.Sostartoffwiththe12YearsOld,whichisasnearasyouwillgettoastandardexpression.Expensivebycomparisonwithothermaltsofasimilarage,butwhatdoyouexpectfromrenegades?Colour Brightgold.
Nose Lotsgoingon:refined,floral,fruityandsubtle.Taste Fairlylightbodiedbutnotwithoutinterest.Startssweet,fruitdevelops,
thenvanillaandoak.Finish Fadesgentlyawaywiththefruitnotesdryingasitends.
22 ProducerDistillery
VisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
TheSazeracCompanyBuffaloTrace,FranklinCounty,KentuckyYesSpecialists
www.buffalotrace.comseealsowww.bourbonwhiskey.com
BuffaloTrace
Anoutstandingandhighly-awardeddistillerofKentuckyStraightBourbon,theBuffaloTracedistillerywasfoundedin1857,thoughtherewasdistillingonthesitesomeseventyyearsearlier.BuffaloTracehasthedistinctionofbeingthefirstproducerofsinglebarrelbourbonwiththe1984releaseofBlanton’s.
AnumberofbrandsareproducedhereaswellasBuffaloTrace:EagleRare,Blanton’s,RockHillFarms,Hancock’s,ElmerT.Lee,SazeracRyeandW.L.Weller,amongothers.Butitisthedistillery’sownlabelthatwe’reconcernedwith,firstintroducedin1999.Itfoundrapidacceptanceandacclaim.Todaytheycanboastontheirwebsitethat‘thedistilleryhaswonmoreinternationalawardssince1990thananyotherNorthAmericandistillery,earningmorethan140distinctionsinnationalandinternationalcompetitions’.
AttheheartofitisthisfineexampleofKentuckyStraightBourbon.Thedistillersbelievethatcertainfloorsofsomeoftheirwarehouses(romantically,theyarenamedaswarehousesC,IandK)producethebestspirit,andsmallbatchesofthebestcasksareselectedforBuffaloTrace.Thesegothroughafurtherselectionbyatastepanelandasfewas25barrelsarethenmarriedandbottled.
Interestingly,thethreewarehousessharesimilarconstruction:theyarerickwarehousesconstructedfromlargewoodbeamsandsurroundedbyabrickshell.Eachhasanearthfloor(likeadunnagewarehouseinScotland)and,duringthewinter,steamispumpedthroughoutthewarehousestocompensateforthedramaticdropintemperature.Thishastheeffectofforcingthewhiskeytomaturefaster–whichisjustgreatbecauseitgetstousthatlittlebitquicker!
BuffaloTraceiswelldistributedingoodspecialistsintheUK.I’dsayitwastheperfectintroductiontobourbon,afterwhichotherbrandsatthispricepointwilldisappoint.Colour Lightbronze.Noaddedcolour.Nose Vanilla,mint,spiceandsomecitrushints.Taste Sweetwithvanilla,cinnamon,brownsugarandoakwood.
Finish Quitelonganddrying.
23 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentre
AvailabilityPrice
BurnStewartDistillersLtdBunnahabhain,IslayYes–modestfacilitiesatthedistillerySpecialists
www.bunnahabhain.com
Bunnahabhain
18YearsOld
IaminordinatelyfondofBunnahabhain.Ioncespentawonderfulholidaythere(youcanrentoneoftheformerdistillerycottages)anditisoneofthequietestandmostrelaxingplacesthatyou’lleverfind.
Thedistilleryitselfismorefunctionalthanpicturesquebutitliesattheheartofaprettybay,withexceptionalviewsovertheSoundofJura.SinceIspenttimethere,BunnahabhainhasbeensoldtoBurnStewart,asmallScotchwhiskydistillingcompanyultimatelyownedinTrinidad,andthishasbeenathoroughlygoodthing.
Previously,itwasratherdwarfedbyitsglamorousstablemates,TheMacallanandHighlandPark.Nowitmaybeinasmallerpond,butit’sabiggerfishandallthemorecomfortableforthat.TheestablisheddistillingteamlargelystayedintactbutaninjectionofTLCfollowedthetransferofownershipandsomeinterestingwhiskieswerequicklyprisedoutofthewarehouses.
Whereoncetherewasonlyasomewhatanodyne12-year-oldversion,todaythereareseveralagedexpressionsandoccasional–andusuallyinterestingandrewarding–specialeditions.Recommendedhereforitsblendofqualityandvalueisthe18-year-oldstyle.Thisisnotheavilypeated,thoughthedistilleryisexperimentingwiththisstyle.Ifyoulikepeat,lookoutforwhattheycalltheirMòineorToiteachstyles(hardtofind,though).
IfyouevergettoIslayit’seasytoforgetaboutBunnahabhain,whichliessomewhatoutoftheway.Thatwouldbeamistake:it’swellworthavisit.Colour Bright,richgold.Nose Hintsofhoneyandnuts;soft,elegant,withmildaromasofsherry.Taste Caramel toffee,old leatherandoak.Asalt influencemaybedetected,
withmintandsweetspice.Finish Well balanced, drying, with sherry and spice notes. Slight hints of
fadingsmoke.
24 ProducerDistillery
VisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
DiageoBushmills,Co.Antrim,NorthernIrelandYesSpecialists
www.bushmills.com
Bushmills
16YearsOld
Doesitactuallymatterwhenadistillerywasfounded?Imean,ifyouthoughtthatBushmillsdatedfrom,say,1784ratherthan,say,1608wouldyoubuyanyless?Thedistillerymakesgreatplayoftheearlierdate,emphasisingitontheirbottlesandlabels,whilebeingrathercoyaboutthefactthatthisrelatestoagenericlicencetodistilintheirgeneralareaandthattheBushmillstrademarkdoesn’tfirstappearuntil176yearslater.Well,what’sacenturyortwoamongfriends?Afterall,theircompetitorshavealldisappearedand1784wasaverylongtimeago(itmarkedtheformalendoftheAmericanWarofIndependence,foronething).Tobefair,thewebsitedoesclearupthe1608thing,sowe’llletthemoff.
Bushmills,nowpartoftheDiageostable,isNorthernIreland’slastsurvivingdistillery–andalargeandsuccessfuloneitisatthat.Havingsurvivedahugefire,Prohibition,avigoroustemperancemovementandcompetitionfromScotchwhisky,Bushmillshasentereditsfifth(orpossiblythird,dependingontheabove)centuryingreatshape.
ThestandardBushmillsandtheslightlypremiumBlackBusharebothblends(curiously,thegrainwhiskycomesfromtheRepublicwhereit’smadeatMidleton,bytheirgreatcompetitor)butthedistilleryoffersthree100%maltedbarleysinglemalts,at10,16and21yearsofage.
Thereisanexcellentvisitorcentreatthedistilleryand,bytakingthetour,youcanseetripledistillationinaction.FromtheBushmillsrange,I’veselectedthe16YearsOldsinglemalt.Theextraageanduptoayear’sfinishinginportwoodaddcolouranddepthofflavourtowhatisalreadyveryfinespirit.The21YearsOldismuchhardertofindandsignificantlymoreexpensive.Colour Theattractiverubyredtintisaclearsignalofportfinishing.Nose Waves of fruit on the nose, immediately appealing sweet notes and
somewoodgetsthrough.Taste Morefruit,butalsomaltycarameltoffeeandsomechocolate.Medium
tofullbodied.
Finish Sinuous waves of complexity – a reminder of all the flavours in theglass–fadingdelightfullyslowly.
25 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
DiageoCameronBridge,FifeNoneSpecialists
CameronBrig
Thisisgrainwhisky–Scotland’sequivalentofthemadauntintheatticwhonoonetalksabout.ButtheScotchwhiskyindustryabsolutelydependsonitbecauseitisatthebasisofblending.IftherewasnograinwhiskytherewouldbenoJohnnieWalker,noFamousGrouse,noBallantine’sandsoon–andfarfewersinglemalts,too,asalmostallsinglemaltdistilleriesrelyonblendedwhiskiestotakethemajorityoftheiroutput.
Sowhysocoy?Well,grainwhiskyisproducedonanindustrialscalebyasomewhatdifferentprocessthansinglemalt,usingcheaperingredients.Generallyspeaking,graindistilleriesaren’tprettyandtheydon’tconformtotheimagethattheindustrylikestosellus.What’smore,mostgrainwhiskyisusedwithinafewmonthsofitsmaturationandisvaluedmoreforitsrelativelyblandflavourthananydistinctivequalities(thereareexceptions,ofcourse,butthisisbroadlytrue).
However,afewgrainwhiskiesaremarketedintheirownrightandit’sworthtryingoneortwojusttoexpandyourwhiskyeducation.CompassBox’sexcellentHedonismisone(seeseparateentry)butit’shardtofindandunusualinthatitisblendedgrain.Foralotlessmoney,trackdownabottleofCameronBrig.Itwon’tbeeasybutit’sworththetrouble.
Ifyoudon’tcareforityoucanalwaystryyourhandatmakingyourownblend.Takeanemptybottle,fillitjustoverhalffullwiththeCameronBrigandaddafewofyourfavouritesinglemalts.Shakewell,saythemagicwordsand,heypresto,you’reablender!ColourWarmgold.Nose Cleanandgrassy.Unpeated,solightandrefreshing.Taste Honeyandspice.Warmingandsmooth(non-agedbutpresumablyeight
totenyearsold).Finish Subtleandsurprisinglycomplex.
26 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
DiageoCaolIla,IslayYesSpecialists
www.malts.com
CaolIla
12YearsOld
It’sgreattobeabletorecommendwhiskieslikethis–virtuallyunknownlittlesecretsthat,oncetasted,areneverforgotten.CaolIla(pronounced‘cowleela’–Gaelicspeakerslookawayplease)mustbeoneofthemostdramaticallylocatedofallofScotland’sdistilleries.It’sattheendofaprecipitousroadjustoutsidePortAskaigonIslay,rightonthesea,oppositetheislandofJura.FromtheManager’sofficewindowyoucanseeseals,ottersandallkindsofinterestingseabirds,nottomentiontheamazingtopographyofJuraandthefamousPaps(stopsniggering,they’regreatbighills).
Butthat’swhatnotmakesitsogreat.ThisisprobablytheunsungheroofIslay’srenownedwhiskies,largelybecausevirtuallyalloftheannualproductionisrequiredforblendingandtheowners,Diageo,hardlypromotethesinglemalt.Theydo,however,grudginglyreleasesomeexpressions–butthesearegenerallyquitepricyifyoudon’tknowyoulikethemandareoftenrestrictedinavailabilityanyway.
Sowhynotstartwiththestandard12YearsOld?It’sprobablythebestbalancedoftheCaolIlaexpressionsandaclassicofitskind.IncommonwithmostIslaysinglemaltsit’sforloversofsmokywhisky.Likeitsbetter-knownneighboursatLagavulin,LaphroaigandArdbeg,it’saforceful,peat-soakedmonster,butsomedrinkersfinditalittlesweeterthanthese.
Therearesomeotherversions,includinganunpeatedversion(whybother?),butthisistheoneyou’relookingfor.Ifyoulikethisyoucanmoveontoitsbigbrotherat18YearsOldandthentryoneofthemanymerchantbottlingsthatareoutthere.Butthisistheplacetostart.ColourAlightcolouredwhisky.Nose The sweetmalt hits one initially, followed by peat, treacle toffee and
gentlelemon/citrus.Taste Medicinal, but not aggressively so; wet grass, linseed oil and smoky
wood. Add water to release sweet biscuits and more smoky, meatynotes.
Finish Peatsmokeandlemonpuddingbattleitouttotheend!
27 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
ChivasBrothersLtdn/an/aSpecialistsanddutyfree
www.chivas.com
ChivasRegal
25YearsOld
Yougetwhatyoupayfor,orsothesayinggoes.Hereyoupayratheralot–typicallyaround£180intheUK,tobeprecise–around4to5timesthepriceofitsjuniorpartner,the18-year-oldstyle.Sowhatdoyouget?Apartfromaverynicebottle,anextraheavyweightstopperandnicepackaging,thatis?
UsingmainlySpeysidesinglemalts,withStrathislaatitsheart,ChivasRegal25isthecreationofChivasMasterBlenderColinScottwhodescribesitas‘theverypinnacleoftheblend’.Accordingtothecompany,theblendincludesaproportionofvattedmalts,whichhavebeenmarryinginwoodforwhatisdescribedas‘averylongperiodoftime’.Scott,widelyrespectedintheindustry,hasbeendoingthisforaverylongperiodoftimehimselfandhasexcelledhimselfherewiththepickoftheenviableChivasmaltwarehouses.
Along-standingfavouriteluxuryblendat12yearsold,ChivasRegalwasinitiallylaunchedbytheoriginalownersasa25-year-oldbackin1909andwasarguablytheworld’sfirstsuper-premiumwhisky.Untilthisrelease,however,ithadonlyrecentlybeenavailableat12and18yearsold.The25YearsOldissmooth,sumptuousandveryrich,withfruitandnutnotes,hintsofrichchocolateorangeandasubtlysmokyfinish.
Withaworldwidereleaseofwhatisnecessarilyalimitedquantityofwhisky,initialstocksweretargetedatmarketssuchastheUSAandtheFarEastbutyoucanfindthisingoodspecialists.Withitshandsomepresentation,itmakesawonderfulandgenerousgift–ifyoucanbeartopartwithit!ColourArich,darkgoldentone.Nose Orangeandripepeach;Christmascakeandnuts.Taste Rich and very full, the age showing clearly but with great vitality.
Everythingfromthenosebutmore.Andmorebesides.Finish Hints of smoke linger on in a well-balanced and well-mannered
conclusion.
28 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
DiageoClynelish,Brora,SutherlandYesSpecialistsanddutyfree
www.malts.com
Clynelish
14YearsOld
TwodistinguishedjudgesofwhiskyestablishedClynelish’sreputationasasinglewhiskymorethan80yearsago:bothProfessorGeorgeSaintsbury(inNotesonaCellar-Book)andhisstudentAeneasMacDonald(Whisky)drewattentiontoitsexceptionalquality.Except,ofcourse,thatitwasnottheClynelishthatwedrinknowthattheyenjoyed,fortheoriginaldistillerywasactuallyclosedin1983.Tosampleanythingresemblingthespiritthattheypraisesohighlyyou’llneedtofindseveralhundredpoundsforabottleof30-year-oldBrora.
Whentheownersdecidedtoclosetheoriginal1819distillery,theytransferedthenametothenewplant.Buttheolddistillerywasthenreopenedin1967,mainlytoproduceheavilypeatedmaltforblending,andbothproducedClynelishuntiltheBroranamewasgiventotheoriginaldistilleryin1975.Itwasneverintendedthateithershouldbesoldasasinglemaltbutthegrowingdemandforsinglemaltsandthedistillery’shistoricreputationpersuadedtheowners(bythenDiageo)toreleasesomelimitedexpressions,whichhavebeenenthusiasticallyreceived.
Confused?Ifindoubt,checkthepricetag–you’relookingforthemorereadilyavailableandaffordableClynelishat14yearsold,whichshouldcostlessthan£35abottle.Ifit’sgotathree-figurepricetag,putitback–carefully.
ThisiswhatDiageorefertoasa‘HiddenMalt’.Notthattheydon’twantyoutofinditatall,itjustfeelssometimesasifthey’redeterminedtomakeitdifficultforyou.Actually,theyprobablycan’tsparethatmuchbecauseit’sakeycomponentintheJohnnieWalkerblends.It’sbetter,though,totrytherealthing:charmingHighlandmaltwithamaritimenotefromitsseasidelocation.ColourAbrightmid-gold.Nose Spicyandperfumed,withthesignature‘candlewax’notelovedbyfans.Taste At most medium bodied, but with a creamy/waxy mouth-coating
impact.Floral,exoticfruitandspices,hintsofsmokeandhoney.Finish Asalty,drying,slightlybitterfinish.
29 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
DiageoGimli,Manitoba,CanadaYesSpecialistsanddutyfree
www.crownroyal.com
CrownRoyal
ThereareonlytwoCanadianwhiskiesinthisbook;notbecausetheyaren’tinterestingbutbecause,ingeneral,theyarehardtofindintheUKand–let’sbehonest–werathertendtolookdownonthem.This,asweshallsee,isourmistake.
CrownRoyalisthenumberoneCanadianwhiskyintheworld,andtheeighthlargestspiritsbrandintheUS–apositionithasn’treachedentirelyaccidentally.ItisalsofoundinFrance,JapanandKoreawherethesomewhatluridpurplepackagingofthevelvetbagthatitcomesinandtheregalassociationsarestronglyassociatedwithquality.
Notthattheroyallinkisentirelyamarketingcreation.Thisdatesto1939whentheoriginalblendwascreatedtomarkavisittoCanadabyKingGeorgeVIandQueenElizabeth(laterknowntobookmakersthelengthandbreadthofthelandastheQueenMother).ThiswasinthedayswhenSeagramownedthebrand.TodayitisinthehandsofDiageoandhasbeenproducedsince1968atthegiantGimlidistillery,ontheedgeofLakeWinnipeg,builtassomethingofahighwatermarkfortheultimatelydoomedSeagramCompany.It’sactuallyworthreadingtheirhistoryasagreatexampleofmistimeddecisionsandcorporateover-enthusiasm.
ThereareseveralexpressionsintheCrownRoyalrangeincludingaReserve,CaskNo.16andtheultra-premiumXR(youmightjustfindtheseindutyfreeshopsinNorthAmerica).Thestandardexpressionhasanenthusiasticfollowingandit’sagreatambassadorforCanada.What’smore,it’softenfoundintheUKin1litrebottles,whichoffergreatvalue.
Itmustbeadmittedthatthebagisabitofaproblem,especiallyifyouliketodisplayyourbottles.Don’tletitputyouoff.SomeoneoneBaymightwantit.Somewhereadoll’shouseneedsnewcurtains.ColourMidgold.Nose Sweetinitialimpact;honey,spicesandredberries.Oakandvanilla.Taste Mediumtofullbodied,fruitywithspicehints.Sweetandcreamy.
Finish Vaguelypleasantandsweet,driftsslowlytoaconclusion.
30 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailability
Price
TheEdringtonGroupn/a–thisisablendn/aMainlyUSA,SpainandGreece–butfightingbackintheUK
www.cuty-sark.com
CuttySark
Original
Forawhilethiswasthebest-sellingblendedwhiskyintheUSA,perhapsonthebackofitsavailabilityduringProhibition.ThiswaslargelyduetotheeffortsofnotedbootleggerCaptainWilliamMcCoywhosestrenuouseffortstorunonlythebestqualitysuppliesashoretohisthirstycustomersgaverisetothephrase‘therealMcCoy’.Curiously,itwasknownoriginallyas‘Scots’whisky.
But,unlikeitsrathervibrantyellowlabel,ithasfadedsomewhatinrecentyears,whichisashame.Itsextremelypalecolourisoutoffashionbutthereisstillplentytoenjoyaboutthispleasant,light-bodiedblend.Foronething,thoughforyearsit’sbeenmarketedbysmartLondonwinemerchantsBerryBros&Rudd,thewhiskyisactuallyblendedbyHighlandDistillersandcontainsahealthymeasureofgreatmaltssuchasGlenrothes,TheMacallanandHighlandPark.Infact,HighlandParkwasactuallyboughtbytheblendersbackin1937toensuresuppliesforCuttySark,thoughithasgoneontogreatsuccessinitsownright(seeseparateentries).Earlierin2010,Highland’sparent,TheEdringtonGroup,boughtthebrandfromBerryBroswhohadjustrelauncheditintheUK,sofansofthislightandrefreshingwhiskycanhavehighhopesforitsfuture.
Untilnow,themainefforthasbeenonthestandardproduct,recommendedhere,butthereisalsoarangeofolderstylesavailable.You’llfindCuttymainlyinLondon’ssmarterstylebarsandcocktailestablishmentsandthisisahintabouthowtoenjoythiswhisky.Undemandingyetofexcellentquality,CuttySarkistheperfectpre-dinnerdramanditalsomixeswell.Don’tbefooledbythepalecolour–there’smoreherethanmeetstheeye.ColourAverypalegoldenwhisky,setoffbytheelegant,tall,clearglassbottle
andstrikingyellowlabel.Nose Vanillaandsomecerealnotes.Taste Delicateandverysubtle–agreataperitifwhisky.Finish Crispandclean.
31 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailability
Price
TheEdringtonGroupn/a–thisisablendn/aMainlyUSA,SpainandGreece–butfightingbackintheUK
www.cutty-sark.com
CuttySark
25YearsOld
BlendingwasoncedefinedbyDavidMacDonaldas‘Theartofcombiningmeticulouslyselected,mature,highqualitywhiskies,eachwithitsownflavourandothercharacteristics,withsuchskillthatthewholeisbetterthanthesumofitsparts,sothateachmakesitscontributiontothefinishedblendwithoutanyonepredominating.’
Itisanidealisticview,ignoringasitdoestheeconomicpressuresbehindmanyofthecheaperblendsthatweseeonourshelves.Yet,atitsbest,thisiswhatgreatblendingisaboutandisastandardtowhichalldistillersaspire,atleastintheirpremiumexpressions.Onceinawhile,onecomesacrossawhiskythatbringsthatdefinitionalive:thisissuchawhisky.
Savouritcarefully:CuttySark25YearsOldisavirtuosodisplayofblendingexcellence;exactlywhatblendingisallabout.Idoubtyouwouldevertireofdrinkingthiswhisky.Itissosmooth,sobalanced,sorefined,soperfectlytunedthateventhemostdemandingcriticwouldsurelybesatisfiedandcryformore.
ItcomesasasurprisethatitcarriestheCuttySarklabel,beingasfarremovedfromthestandardblendasonemightimagine.Wherethatisdeliberatelypale,thisisdark;wherethatiscleanandcrisp,thisisdeepandrich.Itcarriesitsageverywell,yetlikegreatStiltonisclearlymature.Drinkingit,IkeptthinkingofavintageBentley–progressingswiftly,purposefullyandquietly,yetwithastatelydignityandgracethatonlythisrarecombinationoffinesseandpowercanconvey.
Letusnameandhonourthemanbehindthisexceptionalcreation:JohnRamsay,MasterBlenderatEdrington.Sir,wesaluteyou!Ashehasrecentlyretired,blendingwillfalltohissuccessor,GordonMotion.Ihopehe’skeptsomenotes.ColourDeep,darkanddignified.Nose Marmalade,oldoakanddarkhoney.Taste Outstanding balance of power and subtlety. Rich fruit cake, Seville
orangesandtoffee.
Finish Along,richandwarmfinishwithsomespiceandfaintsmoketraces.
32 ProducerDistillery
VisitorCentreAvailability
Price
DiageoDalwhinnie,Dalwhinnie,Inverness-shireYesWidespreadinternationalavailability
www.malts.com
Dalwhinnie
15YearsOld
DalwhinniedistilleryliesjustoffthemainA9,thearterialroutefromEdinburghtoInvernessanditsshinypagodasareclearlyvisiblefromtheroad.Buttrynottolook,becausethisisoneofthemoredangeroussectionsofadangerousroad.Instead,turnoffamileorsotothesouthandspendanhourtouringthedistilleryandlookingatthesmalldisplays.
Theowners,Diageo,laymuchstressonthefactthatthedistilleryisoneofthehighestinScotland,thoughtheprecisesignificanceofthisescapesme.Itisnotasifloweratmosphericpressurewillinfluencethewhiskybutitseemstohavesomeromanticvalueinmarketing.Infact,thereasonfortheremotelocationisrathermoreprosaic:theoriginaldistillery,thenknownasStrathspey,wasputheretotakeadvantageoftherailway,ahugelysignificantinfluenceonVictoriandistilleryconstruction,evenifthespinmeisterswouldrathertalkaboutwater!
Thedistillersthemselvesclaimthat,‘Dalwhinnieissituatedbetweenthegentle,grassystyleoftheLowlandsandtheaustere,firmbodyofSpeyside,whichbeginssome25milestothenorth.ThestyleisthatoftheHighlands;aresilientmarriageofgentlenessandspirit.’Thatperhapsundersellsthemeritsofthissilky,mouth-coatingspirit.
Interestingly,thedistilleryusedtoemploycopperwormtubstocondensethenewmake.Theywerereplacedin1986buttheimpactonspiritcharacterwassuchthatthechangewasreversedin1995.So,fifteenyearson,it’samootpointastotheeffectonthecurrentbottlingbut,suchisthedemandforthesinglemaltexpressioninDiageo’sClassicMaltCollection,supplieswillprobablyhaverevertedtowormtubcondensedspiritbythetimeyoureadthis.ColourYellowgold.Nose Immediatelyappealing;gentlesmokewithhoney,ripefruitsandgrassy
heather.Taste Often said to appeal to thosewho ‘don’t likewhisky’, this is actually
morecomplex than it firstappearsandoffershiddendepthsofvanillawithsubtleorangesuggestions.
Finish Somesmokesurprises,thengiveswaytoasweeterfinish.Perhapsdarkchocolatealso.
33 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
BurnStewartDistillersLtdDeanston,Doune,PerthshireNo–toursbyappointmentSpecialists
www.burnstewartdistillers.com
Deanston
12YearsOld
It’snotoftenrecalledthatPerthshirewasonceamajordistillingcentre,withover100distilleriesrecorded.Todaytherearestillsixinoperation–Deanstonistheoneeveryonebutthemosthard-coreenthusiastwillforget.
ItmakesitintothislistasoneofthemostimprovedwhiskiesIcancalltomind,comingfromadistilleryasinterestingasitisobscure.Butignoreanyreferencesto1785.Thisiswhentheoriginalbuildingwaserectedbutitwasacottonmill,designedbyRichardArkwrightandpoweredbythefast-flowingRiverNeith.TodayArkwright’scellars,whicharelisted,provideidealconditionsforthematurationofwhiskyandthedistilleryisstillpoweredbyturbinesdrivenbytheNeith.Infact,thedistillerygeneratesmorepowerthanitneeds–enoughelectricitytorun400housesissoldtotheNationalGrid.
Themillwasconvertedtoafullworkingdistilleryin1966andthefirstspiritranin1969fromtwopairsoflargebulbouspotstills,capableofdistillingthreemillionlitresofalcoholayear.Thelargeboilingballsonthestillsencourageahighdegreeofreflux,leadingtoalightandfruityspiritcharacter.Theoriginalintentionwastousethisinlaunchingamajornewblend,butthisneverhappened.
Deanstonwasfirstreleasedassinglemaltin1974and,bystages,wasdevelopedtoa12YearsOldproduct.But,tobeblunt,itwasn’tterriblygood.Notbad;neitherinterestingnormemorable.
Withthenewlyreleasedversion,however,thingsarelookingup.Thestrengthhasbeenincreasedto46.3%abv,it’snotchillfilteredanylonger,it’smarriedinnewoakforsomeweekspriortobottlingandthere’snoaddedcolour.It’salotbetterandworthatry.Stillquitelightanddelicate,butthenyoudon’twantsomeroaringpeat-soakedmonsterorhugesherrycharactereveryday.ColourYellowgold.Nose Freshandfruity,withmalt,hintsofhoneyandnuts.Fragrantandquite
floral.
Taste Anidealaperitif.Gingerbread,spicesandliquorice.Finish Long,quitedryandpleasantlyherbal,withnewwoodnotesattheback.
34 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentre
Availability
Price
JohnDewar&SonsLtdn/a–thisisablendDewar’sWorldofWhisky,Aberfeldy,PerthshireStrongintheUSA,dutyfreeandGreece.IncreasinglyavailableintheUK
www.dewars.com
Dewar’s
12YearsOld
TheDewar’scompanywasboughtbyBacardiin1988andtherangeofproductsgreatlyincreased.NotthattherewasanythingseriouslywrongwiththeoldWhiteLabelbutthenewblendshavereachedhigherstandards.Onefeltthecompanyneededsometenderlovingcareandthathasbeengiveninrecentyears.
ComparedtoJohnnieWalker,theDewarhousestyletendstobeasofterblendwiththesweeterheatherhoneynotesofAberfeldysinglemaltatitsheart.Thisisveryapproachable,easytodrinkwhiskythatcantakeiceandamixer,whilealsobeingenjoyableonitsownorwithalittlewater.
Dewar’smakegreatplayof‘marrying’theirwhiskiespriortofinalbottling–aprocessdevelopedbytheirfirstMasterBlenderA.J.Cameronbackintheearlytwentiethcentury.Todayitinvolvesmakinguptheblendandplacingitforuptosixmonthsinspecialmarryingcaskssothattheflavoursarefullyandharmoniouslyintegrated.Thecompanyinsistthatwhiletheirinstrumentscan’tdetectanydifferenceinflavourtheirhumantastingpanelcanandsotheystickwiththistime-consumingandexpensiveextrastage.They’renottheonlypeopledoingthis,butitisunusualandappearstomakearealdifference.
YoucanlearnmoreaboutallofthisontheirwebsiteorbyvisitingtheirverysmartvisitorcentreattheAberfeldydistillery.IcanadmitherethatIwasinvolvedinitscreation(andveryproudofitIam,too)butthatwasquitesomewhileago,soIfeelcompletelyfreetopraisethiswhiskywholeheartedlyandwithoutanyembarrassment.ColourArichgoldenwhisky,andstylishpackaging.Nose Full and fruity; raisins, orange peel, toffee/butter fudge and heathery
hints.Taste A rich, fruity sweetness; good length andweight; hints of oak, citrus
notes,honeyandcaramel.Finish Fullflavoured,longandlingering,withliquoricenotes.
35 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentre
Availability
Price
JohnDewar&SonsLtdn/a–thisisablendDewar’sWorldofWhisky,Aberfeldy,PerthshireGoodintheUSA,dutyfreeandspecialistsintheUK
www.dewars.com
Dewar’s
Signature
Ihavedeliberatelynotrecommendedmanyexpensivewhiskieshere,believingthatthereisplentytoexplorebelow£100abottleandthat,onceyougetwellintothreefigures,adisproportionateamountofthecostgoesintolavishpackaging(onwhicheveryoneinthedistributionchaintakesamargin).Moreover,thereisadangerthatyoucanpayasignificantpremiumsimplyforrarityorage,withoutnecessarilyseeingacommensurateimprovementinthewhisky.
Signature(it’stheoriginalJohnDewar’s,bytheway,thoughIfancyhisflamboyantsonTommywouldhavelikedthestyleofthis)doeshaveratheralavishwoodenboxandfancystopper,anditwilltypicallycostyouaround£200intheUK(tryandfinditattheairportinstead).But,forthosespecialoccasionsandifyoulikethisstyleofwhisky,it’sworthit.
LikeJohnnieWalkerBlueLabel(itsclosestcompetitor)thisisnon-aged:thatistosaythatwhiletheblendhassomeveryoldwhiskies,mainlyAberfeldy,italsohassomeyoungeronesandtheblendersthinkyouprobablywouldn’tpaythepriceiftheyputtheageonthebottle.Andeveniftheydon’tthinkthat,themarketingpeoplecertainlydo.
Onceagain,thewhiskiesinSignaturearemarried(seeDewar’s12YearsOldforanexplanation)andthis,togetherwiththehighpercentageofsinglemalt,accountsforthesmooth,richtaste.It’sonetosipandsavourafteracelebrationdinner.
Keeptheposhwoodenbox,bytheway;itmakesahandycoffinforapethamsterorgerbil.ColourDeepgoldenamber.Nose Sweet,balanced,richandfruity,fudge,coffeecrèmebrûléeandvanilla
ice cream drizzledwithwarm toffee sauce. The aromas developwithnougat,toastedmacadamianut,marzipanandlashingsofhoney.
Taste Rich, sweetand longwithavelvety,creamymouth feel.Butter toffeeand honey with warm winter fruits and mellow tones of sultanas,raisins,applesandcoconut.Fullbodiedandvelvety.
Finish Alongandcomplexfinish.Smoothandwarming.
36 ProducerDistillery
VisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
TheSazeracCompanyBuffaloTrace,FranklinCounty,KentuckyYesSpecialists
www.buffalotrace.comseealsowww.bourbonwhiskey.com
EagleRare
17YearsOld
Americanwhiskeybrandscanbeconfusingtotheoutsider:firstseenin1975,EagleRarewasoriginallya101-proof10-year-oldKentuckystraightbourbonwhiskey(notsingle-barrel)fromSeagramandthusamongthelastnewbourbonbrandsintroducedpriortothecurrenteraofso-called‘smallbatch’releases.Subsequently,EagleRarehasbeendistilled,bottledand/ormarketedbyanumberofcompanies,includingtheOldPrenticeDistilleryofFrankfort,Kentucky.
TheSazeracCompany,aNewOrleans-basedproducerandimporterandtheparentcompanyoffivedistilleries,acquiredEagleRarefromSeagraminMarch1989.Atthattime,Sazerac’sKentuckydistillerywasknownastheGeorgeT.StaggDistillerybuttodaycarriesthenameBuffaloTrace(seeseparateentry).
Therearetwoversions:a10YearsOldandthisolder,moreexpensivebigbrother,partofBuffaloTrace’sAntiqueCollection.ItwillcomeasnosurprisetowhiskyenthusiaststhatthisbookkeepsreferringbacktoBuffaloTraceasthesourceforsomeoutstandingwhiskiesbutitisperhapsnotaswellknown(yet)tothegeneralconsumerasitshouldbe,andtheplethoraofbrandnamesandidentitiesdon’thelp.
Bethatasitmay,17-year-oldbourbonisarareandpreciousthing.Mostbourbonmaturesmuchfasterthanthis,duetotheKentuckyclimate,soagealoneattractsafairlystiffpremium,though,infairnesstothedistiller,itmustberememberedthatevaporationlossesarehigherherethaninScotland.At17yearsthisisprobablyreachingitspeakand,forsheersmoothness,hasfewequals.
Inevitablythereisvariationfrombatchtobatch,asthisisproducedinsmallquantities,buttheoverallstandardisexceptionallyhighandloversofgreat,full-flavouredbourbonlookingforwell-balancedmaturityareunlikelytofeeldisappointed.ColourDeep,rich,coppergold.Nose Honey,caramelandmarzipan.
Taste Lotsofweightandbody;sweetnessthenorangeandvanillafudge.Finish Extendedfinish,surprisinglydryingtotheend.
37 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
HeavenHillBernheim,Louisville,KentuckyYesSpecialists
www.heaven-hill.comseealsowww.bardstownwhiskeysociety.com
ElijahCraig
12YearsOld
At12yearsoldand94proof,ElijahCraigisbottledexclusivelyfromadumpingof70barrelsorless,alldrawnfromthemiddletoupperfloorsofHeavenHill’straditionalmetal-cladrickhouses.Thedistilleryproudlyclaimsthatthisistheoriginalsmallbatchbourbon,havingbeencreatedbeforethetermwasinvented.ElijahCraigwasrecentlyawardedDoubleGoldattheSanFranciscoWorldSpiritsCompetitionandhasbeenawinnerinWhiskyMagazine’sBestoftheBesttastingcompetition.
There’saninterestingstorybehindthename.TheReverendElijahCraigwasborninOrangeCounty,Virginia,sometimearound1740(accountsvary,asifyoucared).HewasordainedaBaptistpreacherin1771andmusthavebeenalivelycharacterbecausehewasapparentlyimprisonedbrieflyinSouthCarolinaafterbeingchargedwithdisturbingthepeaceduringhissermons!
LaterheledacongregationtoScottCounty,Kentucky,andplannedthesettlementthatwouldeventuallybeknownasGeorgetown.Quitetheproto-typicalsocialentrepreneur,oldElijahfoundedanumberofbusinessesincludingasmalldistillerythatconvertedbulkygrainintowhiskey–highervalueandeasiertotransportandtrade.AmonghisventureswastheRoyalSpringMilland,sothestorygoes,afirethereledtobarrelsbeingcharred.Ratherthandiscardthem,theparsimoniousclericemployedthemtoagehiswhiskey.(Quitewhythebarrelsburntfromtheinsideisamystery:we’llattributeittodivineintervention.)Anyway,inhonourofhiscontributiontowhiskey,Craigisconsidereda‘FatherofBourbon’andHeavenHillnamedthispremiumexpressionafterhim.That’sall.It’saprettyfairmemorial,however,sinceit’srightlyveryhighlyratedandagreat-valuebottle.ColourArich,warminggoldenbrown.Nose Lotsgoingonhere,withcaramelandhoneytothefore.Sweetbutnot
cloyinglyso.Taste Agreeably complex, lots of oak notes, spiced fruits and jam. Very
smoothandmouthcoating.Finish Vanilla sweetness; lingering pleasantly and holding together well.
Yummy!
38 ProducerDistillery
VisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
GlenoraDistilleryGlenoraInn&Distillery,Glenville,CapeBreton,NovaScotia,CanadaYesSpecialists
www.glenoradistillery.com
GlenBreton
Rare
Oops!Ourveryfirst‘glen’andit’snotfromScotland.
But,behonest,doyouthinkabottlereading‘Canada’sOnlySingleMaltWhisky’andbearingalargeredmapleleafonthefront,togetherwiththewords‘Canadian/Canadien’couldbemistakenforScotch?Wouldyoupickupabottle,getithomeandthenthink‘D’oh’?TheScotchWhiskyAssociation(SWA)certainlythoughtsoandfoughtalongandexpensivecourtbattletohavetheword‘glen’removedfromthisproduct,thusprotectingyoufromtheconsequencesofyourownfoolishness.
Alittleharsh,youmayfeel,sincethiscomesfromGlenvilleinNovaScotiaandthedistillery’spresidentisoneLauchieMacLean–there’slittledoubtwhosettledthispartofCanada,anditwasn’ttheFrench.AndGlenOracanonlymake250,000litresofspiritannuallyand,fortheirGlenBreton,theyusecopperpotstillsandbarley,yeastandwatertomaketheirsinglemaltwhiskywhichisnotablydifferentfrommostCanadianwhisky.
Eventuallythecasewaslost,thoughitdidgoallthewaytotheCanadianSupremeCourtandtheSWAseemedtomelessthanmagnanimousindefeat.Anyway,nowyoucanbuyCanadianSingleMaltWhiskyinScotland.Fewoff-licencesreportedqueuesofexcitedwould-beMountiesandlumberjacks,however,andtheScotchwhiskyindustryseemstohavesurvivedthislessthanconvulsiveshock.
AccordingtoGlenOraspokesmanBobScott,thecompanywillnow‘demonstratethespecialabilityoftheGaelicScotsofCapeBretontocraftanexceptionalsinglemaltwhisky,whichisuniquelyCanadian’.
WeawaitthisDavid-and-Goliath-typestrugglewithinterest.ColourGoldenAmber.Nose Butterscotch,heather,honeyandgroundginger.Taste Creamywithagoodflowoftoastywood,almondandcaramel.
Finish Rounded,lingering,faintlysweet,themerestwhisperofpeat.
39 ProducerDistillery
VisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
G&JGrantGlenfarclas,Ballindalloch,BanffshireYesSpecialists
www.glenfarclas.co.uk
Glenfarclas
21YearsOld
Scottishreadersmaynowrelax–this‘glen’isfraeBonnieScotland,asintheglensofhome.NorelationtotheGrantsofGlenfiddichfamebut,liketheirnamesakes,theGrantsofGlenfarclasareanexampleofadyingbreed:theindependent,family-owneddistiller.
Notthatthereseemsanydangerofthatchanginginthenearfuture,asthenextgenerationofthefamilyisalreadyinthebusinessandwillpresumablyinheritthereinsinduecourse.CurrentChairmanJohnL.S.Grantisthefifthmemberofthefamilytoownandmanagethedistillery,andhissonGeorgeS.Grantisworkingasthecompany’sBrandAmbassador(greatjob,bytheway–youtravelroundtheworlddrinkingwhiskywithpeople,thoughpresumablythere’smoretoitthanthat).
Thekeypointaboutthisfamilyownershipiscontinuity,bothindistillingstyleandinmanagement.Withfreedomfromshort-termshareholderpressure,companieslikethis(andtheGlenfiddichGrants)canbuildstocksandtakealong-termviewoftheirbusiness.
WithGlenfarclasthishaspaidoffwiththereleaseoftheirFamilyCasksseries–individualcaskbottlingsrepresentingeveryyearcontinuouslyfrom1952tothepresentday.Someoftheolderwhiskiesareexcellentandexcellentvalue,eveniftheybreachmyself-imposed£1,000perbottlemark.ButI’mnotgoingtorecommendoneofthose,temptedthoughIamtodoso.AsanintroductiontotheGlenfarclasstyleofsherry-agedSpeysidewhisky,trythesublime21YearsOld.Atlessthan£60it’sasteal,thoughI’dpersonallyliketoseeitofferedatahigherstrengththan43%abv.That’snit-picking,though:ifyoulikefull-flavoured,richbutnotaggressivewhiskiesthatjustoozeclass(andwhywouldn’tyou?)thisoneisdefinitelyforyou.ColourNoticeablydark;thesherrycaskshavebeenatworkhere.Nose Sherrynose,fruitcake,orangesandsweetness.Notahintofoverageor
rubber.Taste Very full and rounded; old leather, dried fruits and dark marmalade.
Layered.Finish Arich,rollingfinish.
40 ProducerDistillery
VisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
G&JGrantGlenfarclas,Ballindalloch,BanffshireYesSpecialists
www.glenfarclas.co.uk
Glenfarclas
105
Ihaven’tlistedtoomanycaskstrengthwhiskies,becausethey’reoftenquitehardtofind,butthisisclearlyonetotryandrepresentsgreatvalueformoney,too.Theappealofthe‘caskstrength’bottleisthatyouareabletotrywhiskyjustasyouwouldifyousneakedintothewarehouseandgotadramstraightfromthebarrel.Ithasn’tbeenfiltered,whichinevitablyremovessomeofthenaturalbodyfromthewhisky,andself-evidentlyithasn’tbeendiluted.
Strictlyspeaking,Glenfarclas105isn’tcaskstrengthbecauseitisbottledat60%abv,butthatisnearenoughand,asthisisn’tasingle-caskbottling,theystandardisethestrengthforconsistency.It’sprobablyoneoftheeasiestoftheveryhigh-strengthwhiskiestofindandwasoneoftheveryfirsttoofferthisstyle,soitgetsmarksjustforthat.
Sothisisstrongstuff.Butthepointisnottoindulgeinmachoposturinganddrinkitatthisstrength(thoughyou’vegottotryaweesip).Ratheryoushoulddiluteittoyourtasteandstillpickupalltheoilyrichnessthatiswhisky’snaturalcondition.And,whileyou’redoingit,helpsupportthatrarestofbeasts:anindependent,family-owned,ScottishScotchwhiskycompany.Hurrah!
Glenfarclasaregreatadvocatesofsherrycasksandthisisaminorclassicfromafamilycompanyjustifiablyproudoftheirindependence.Theyjealously,andrightly,guardtheirreputationforqualityandyouwon’teverseeanythingsecond-ratewiththeirlabel.
Thedistilleryiswellworthamorningofyourtimeifyou’reeverinthearea.ColourDeepgoldrevealingmaturationintopqualityex-sherrycasks.Nose Clearlyabigwhisky,fruitywithwinenotes,caramelandchocolate.Taste Sherrywoodclearlybuthoneyinthebackground;sweetchocolateand
driedfruits.Finish Somesmokyhints,lingeringwinenotesandhoneyshowsthrough.
41 ProducerDistillery
VisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
WilliamGrant&SonsDistillersLtdGlenfiddich,Dufftown,BanffshireYesWorldwide
www.glenfiddich.com
Glenfiddich
18YearsOld
Glenfiddichisthebest-sellingsinglemaltwhiskyintheworld,thankstoafar-sighteddecisionbythisstaunchlyindependent,family-ownedcompanytostartpromotingsinglemaltwhiskywellbeforetheindustrygiants.It’sgenerallysaidthatseriouseffortstosellGlenfiddichstartedinthe1960sbutIhaveseenapromotionalbottlepourerfrombeforeWorldWar2,suggestingthatatleastsomeluckydrinkerswereconvertedtotheappealofthissplendiddraminanageofubiquitousblends.
Bethatasitmay,Glenfiddich’sall-pervadingpresenceactuallyservestoputoffsomemaltfans,whoarguethatsomethingsopopularcan’treallybethatgood.BecauseGlenfiddichisseeneverywhere(anditreallyis)itlosesitssnobappeal.
Butanywhiskyanoraktakingthisapproachismissingsomeraretreats.Asafamily-ownedcompany,WilliamGrant&Sonshavebeenabletotakealong-termapproachtothestewardshipoftheirwhisky,withoutthepressureofhalf-yearearningsreportstoagreedyandoftenshort-sightedCity.TheresultisthatthecompanyhaveextensivestocksofolderGlenfiddichs,whicharearguablyunder-appreciatedbysomedrinkersandthusrepresentsomethingofabargain.
Ifyourwalletwillstretch,the30YearsOldvariantissimplyoutstanding(infact,readon).But,foraffordableeverydaydrinkingthatgivesrealpleasure,looknofurtherthanthis18YearsOld.It’sSpeysideatitsbest;agreatexampleofaclassicwhiskyfromadistillertowhomallwhiskyfanstheworldoveroweasincereandextendedvoteofthanks.Colour Rich,warmgold.Nose AclassicSpeyside–fruity,fragrantandwithaverycleannose.Taste Lots to find here: apples, sharp citrus notes but plenty of depth also,
withdarkfruitandoak.Finish Elegantandwelldefined.
42 ProducerDistillery
VisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
WilliamGrant&SonsDistillersLtdGlenfiddich,Dufftown,BanffshireYesWorldwide
www.glenfiddich.com
Glenfiddich
30YearsOld
Iknow,anotherGlenfiddich.Howboring.
Wrong!Wrong!Wrong!
Forgetyourprejudices.Ataround£200inmostUKoutlets(lessindutyfree)thisisgoodvalue,ifnotquitetheseriousbargainitwasjustafewyearsago.Itdoesn’tcomeinafancyboxwithanumberedbottlebutthiswasaworthyanddecisiveoverallwinnerofthe2007ScottishFieldMerchant’sChallenge.
Aswe’velearned,Glenfiddichisstillafamily-ownedcompanyandisstaunchlyindependent.Theyhaveextensivestocksandasingle-mindedwayofdoingthings.Manyoftheirpeoplehavebeenwiththemfordecades(somehaveevenhadseveralgenerationsofthesamefamilyworkingforthecompany)andthismeansthereisararecontinuityinthinking,customandpractice.
Idon’twanttosuggestthey’re‘stickinthemud’orresistanttoprogress,butthereisasenseinwhichtheirveryimmunitytofadsandfashionmakesthemfashionable.Mindyou,thedistilleryhostsanannualcontemporaryartsprogramme,whichcanleadtosomeunusualsights,suchasfirebucketshanginghalfwayupthestillhousewallandastackofcarsheldtogetherbybindingtape,sothey’requitepreparedtotakesomeriskswiththeirimage.Anyway,backtothewhisky.
Thisstuffoozesflavour.ThelateMichaelJackson,reveredinwhiskycircles,describeditas‘luxurious,butinarestrained,understatedway’,whichsortofdescribesthecompanyaswell.Glenfiddichdo40and50YearsOldversionsaswell:theyareagreatdealmoreexpensiveand,forbangforyourbuck,you’ddowelltostoprighthere.ColourDarkandenticing.Nose Beguilinglyfreshandfruity;spicywithsherrynotes.Taste Mediumbodybutmouthcoating; tropicalfruit,honey,spiceandfresh
fruits,followedbysomedarkernotes
Finish Allof theabove;hintsofoakanda touchofsmoke in there forgoodmeasure.
43 ProducerDistillery
VisitorCentre
AvailabilityPrice
GlenglassaughDistilleryCo.LtdGlenglassaugh,Portsoy,AberdeenshireNoneattimeofwriting,butplansareinhand.ToursavailableSpecialists
www.glenglassaugh.com
Glenglassaugh
TheSpiritDrinkThatDareNotSpeakItsName
Glenglassaughwasmothballedin1986but,togeneralsurprise,reopenedattheendof2008undernewownershipandafterahealthyinvestmenttogettheoldplacegoing.
Andnow,here’saconfession.Well,twoactually.
Iworkedontheplanninganddevelopmentofthisproductsoifyoufeelthatdisbarsmefromcommentstopreadingnow.Andit’snotactuallywhisky,soagainyoumightwanttolookaway.
Thisiswhatusedtobeknownindistilleriesas‘clearic’–newmakespiritstraightoffthestill.Itwillbecomewhiskybutitcan’tbecalledwhiskyuntilithasspentaminimumofthreeyears(andnotadayless)inoakbarrelsinawarehouseinScotland.Upuntil1915,whentheageingregulationsbecamelaw,alotof‘whisky’wouldhavebeendrunklikethisand,untiltheadventofmoreresponsiblehealthandsafetyatworkpracticesinthe1970s,alotwasdrunkindistilleriesintheinfamouspracticeof‘dramming’.Quitealotprobablystillis,ifyouknowwheretolook,whotoaskandcankeepyourmouthshut.(Notwhileyou’redrinking,obviously.)So,ifyouwanttoknowhowwhiskystartslife,youhavetotrythis.Oneortwodistilleriesselltheirnewmakebut,inmyopinion(andnotjustbecauseIwasinvolved),thisisthebest.It’sfruity,verycleanandaromatic,andsurprisinglycomplex,soshouldagewell.Bottledat50%abvit’snotatallharshorspirityanddilutesnicely.Thereisalsoaversionbottledafter6monthsageinginredwinecasksthathasapleasantroséblushcolour.
Asyoutryityoucanponderthethoughtthatthisiswhatgreat-grandadprobablydrank.Colour Colourless,slightcloudingonadditionofwater.Lookforwell-defined
viscimetricwhorls.Nose Creamybutterscotchandcustardcreamsgiveway todelicatenotesof
sweet hay and freshly cut grass.Withwater, this spirit becomes veryfloralandfruity.
Taste Powerfulatfirstwithawaveofchilliandblackpepper,thentoffeeandliquorice.
Finish Freshandfruityonthenose;spicyyetsweetonthepalate.
44 ProducerDistillery
VisitorCentre
AvailabilityPrice
GlenglassaughDistilleryCo.LtdGlenglassaugh,Portsoy,AberdeenshireNoneattimeofwriting,butplansareinhand.ToursavailableSpecialists
www.glenglassaugh.com
Glenglassaugh
26YearsOld
Yes,IknowI’vementionedthistinydistilleryalreadyandIknowthiswhiskyisbothexpensiveandhardtofind–butit’sworthit.Thisisoneofmypersonalall-timefavouritesand,whileIwouldprobablyneverhavediscovereditifIhadn’tdonesomeworkforthedistillery(thisisthedisclaimerclause)thisdoesn’tdisqualifyme.
Whatyouwillexperiencehereisthesubtleandcharmingeffectoflongageingingoodwoodonafragrantanddelicatenewspirit.Backwhenthiswasdistilled,sometimepriorto1986,virtuallyallofGlenglassaugh’soutputwasgoingforblending,mainlyinCuttySark.Thisisn’tastronglyflavouredorparticularlyhighlycolouredwhisky,sotheblendersweren’tlookingforpronouncedflavourfromtheblendcomponents,morenuancesandsomecomplexity.
Sotheytendedtouse‘refill’casks;thatistosay,barrelsthatmightoncehaveheldeithersherryorbourbonbuthadbeenusedatleastonce(andpossiblymoreoften)forScotchwhisky.Then,ashappensfromtimetotime,notalltheGlenglassaughwasusedandaquantitywasleftquietlyageing.
Inthisparticularcase,andthisdoesn’talwayshappen,itjustgotbetterandbetterwithage.So,whenthenewownerstookover,theybottledtheremainingcasksandreleased,firsta21YearsOldandthenthis26YearsOldversion.Whenit’sgoneitwillbegoneandtheworldwillbeapoorerplace.Eitherisworthtrackingdown.
Infact,grabsomenowwhileyoustillcan.It’sacreamy,complex,slightlysweetwhiskythatIfindquitebewitching,especiallyasalate-nightrewardafteraparticularlytryingday.Thedistillerycharacterisclearlyevident,butsomemoresherrycaskshavegotintothisbatch,addingrichnessanddepth.ColourWarmstraw.Darkerthanthe21YearsOld.Nose Very delicate; dried fruits and noses younger than the age would
suggest.Taste Complex and multi-layered, spice notes dancing with rich fruits and
caramel;superbbalance.Finish Vanillanotescarrythefreshnessthroughintoalongandslightlyspicy
finishthatisinfluencedbutneverdominatedbythesherrycasks.
45 ProducerDistillery
VisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
IanMacleodDistillersLtdGlengoyne,Dumgoyne,nrKilearn,GlasgowYesSpecialists
www.glengoyne.com
Glengoyne
21YearsOld
IhaveagreatfondnessforGlengoynefornobetterreasonthanitwasthefirstdistilleryIevervisited.Itwasonmyhoneymoon,asithappened,whichshouldhavealarmedmywife,thoughwhiskydidn’tstarttoplayabigpartinmylifeuntilsomeyearslater.Shedoesmentionitfromtimetotime,however.
Allthiswasrathermorethan21yearsago,sowepresumablygotsomethingright.ThedistilleryitselfhastakenonanewleaseoflifesinceitwassoldbytheEdringtonGrouptothecurrentowners,whohaveinvestedheavilyintheexcellentvisitorfacilities,increasedproductionandnewproducts.
Theymakemuchofthefactthatallthemalttheyuseistotallyunpeated.Untilrecently,theyalsohighlightedtheiruseofGoldenPromisebarley,traditionallyhighlyratedformakingwhisky,butlowyieldingandpronetodisease.Infact,formanyyearsTheMacallanalsoemphasisedacommitmenttoGoldenPromisebut,asproductionexpanded,boththeyandGlengoynehavediscreetlydroppedit.Sothinkofthisasafarewelltothisold-fashionedvariety.
Non-peatedmalt,saysthedistillery,meansyouget‘therealtasteofmalt’.
Whateverthetruthofthat,thisisaveryattractivewhiskythatdeservestobebetterknown.It’savailableatvariousagesbutreallycomesintoitsownwiththis21YearsOldstyle.Ifyoureallywanttosplashoutthereisalsoa40YearsOld,inarathernicedecanter,butthepriceofthatoneisn’tprintablehere.Forthesamemoneyyoucangetnearly50bottlesofthislittlebeautyandIknowwhatIwouldratherhave.ColourGloriousoldgold.Thejudicioususeof100%sherryoakgivesrichness
anddepth.Nose Sweetandhoneyed;sherry,ripeapplesandmaybebakedapplepie.Taste Toffee,vanillaandrichsherrynotesinitially,givingwaytosomespice
and a very pleasant warming glow. ‘Stewed pears and custard’ havebeenreported.
Finish Quiteextended,smoothandwarming,withgentlespicehintsasitfades.
46 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailability
Price
LVMHGlenmorangie,Tain,Ross-shireYesDifferentexpressionswidelyavailable
www.glenmorangie.com
Glenmorangie
QuintaRuban
Glenmorangie’slong-termowners(mainlytheMacDonaldfamily)soldouttotheFrenchluxurymarketinghouseLouisVuittonMoetHennessy(LVMH)inOctober2004for£300m,apricewhichexcitedsomecomment.
Previously,thecompanyhadsomethingofaschizophrenicpersonality:tryingtomaintainGlenmorangieand,toalesserextentArdbeg,aspremiumwhiskiesbutalsoattemptingtocompetewithcheaperblendsandfulfillingsubstantialsupermarketbusiness.However,LVMHaremoresingle-mindedlyaluxurybrandoperation;thedifferencebetween‘premium’and‘luxury’beingawideoneculturallyandintermsofbothpriceandtargetconsumer.
Asaresult,theyhavereducedeffortonblends,soldtheGlenMoraydistilleryandbrand,andreformulated,repackagedandrelaunchedtheGlenmorangierangeinanattempttoseducemoreinternationalbuyerslookingforaluxuryspirit.
AccordingtoresearchanalystsIWSR,Glenmorangiesteadilylostmarketsharefrom2000to2008,underperformingtheglobalgrowthinsinglemaltwhiskyretailsalesvalue,andtheslippageappearstohavecontinuedwhilethebrandwasbeingrepositioned.That’shardlysurprising,giventhetimethesethingstake,butitremainstobeseenifthenewstrategywillwork–certainlymaltfansweredividedonthemeritsofthenewlook.However,therealdecisionwillbetakenbytheelusiveanddangerouslyfickleluxuryconsumersoftheFarEastandthevolatileBRICmarkets.
Ofthewhiskies,theQuintaRubanisperhapsthemostinteresting.GlenmorangiepioneeredthenowwildlyfashionablepracticeoffinishingwhiskiesinalternativecaskswiththeirfirstPortWoodfinishbackin1990.Thatwasgood;thisisanimprovement–ifnolongertheoriginal,it’sstillthebest.ColourArich,warmreddishgold.Nose ArchetypalGlenmorangiedelicacyandcomplexitywithanewdepth.
Taste Great balance; complexity and richness; fruit notes, chocolate and anunderlying,delicatesweetness.
Finish Alingeringandenigmaticfinishthatintrigues;chocolateorangerushattheend.
47 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentre
AvailabilityPrice
Gordon&MacPhailn/aRetailShop,SouthStreet,Elgin,MorayshireSpecialists
www.gordonandmacphail.com
Gordon&MacPhail
GlenGrant25YearsOld
Theobservantreaderwill,bynow,haveobservedthatalltheentriesinthisbookareforofficialproprietarybottlingsandnotthoseofso-called‘thirdparty’merchants.Thereareseveralreasonsforthis,notleastavailabilityandthegreaterdangerofvariabilityinindependentbottlings.ButImustmakeoneexception,fortheworld’sgreatestmerchantbottler:Gordon&MacPhailofElgin.
JamesGordonandJohnAlexanderMacPhailannouncedtheopeningoftheir‘centricalandcommodiouspremises’onSouthStreet,ElgininMay1895,promisingtheircustomers‘theutmostsatisfaction’andguaranteeing‘asuperiorarticleatapopularprice’.Here’sthething:it’sstilltrue.Buyanythingwiththeirlabelonitandyou’llbehappy.Promise.
Today,astheyhavedoneformorethanahundredyears,G&Mbuyfillings–thatistosay,theyprovideorspecifythecasksintowhichisracked‘newmake’boughtdirectfromthedistillers.ItisthenstoredeitherbythedistillerconcernedorinG&M’sownextensivewarehousesandbottledasandwhenG&Mconsiderittobeready.Becausethishasbeentheirpolicysincetheearliestyears,theyhaveextensivestocksofrareandveryoldwhisky.Infacttheyclaimtocarrypossiblythelargestrangeofwhiskiesintheworld,acomprehensiveselectionofwhichmaybeseenattheElginshop.Thisisaveritablecathedralofwhisky:grownmenhavebeenknowntobreakdownintearshereandhavetoberemovedgentlytoaplaceofsafety.
Sadly,Icanonlypickoneoftheirwhiskies,soI’mgoingfortheirbottlingofa25YearsOldGlenGrant.It’scrackingvalueanddemonstrateshowgreatthisdistillerycanbewhenthewhiskyisproperlyaged.Itseemschurlishtopickfaultwiththis,butifthey’donlybottleditat46%,thiswouldbeoutstanding.Don’tletthatstopyou,though.ColourWarmandrich.Nose Darkfruits,cakeandchocolate.
Taste Full-bodiedbutneveroverwhelming,thisiscomplex,richandslightlysweet.
Finish Veryconsistent; a long, rolling finishwithcitrushintsand jammyredfruit.
48 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentre
AvailabilityPrice
IrishDistillersGroupforMitchell&SonMidleton,Cork,IrelandRetailshopattheCHQBuilding,DublinRare
www.mitchellson.com
GreenSpot
ThisisalegendaryIrishwhiskey,spokenofinhushedandreverenttones.Despitethefactthatitishardtofind(only6,000bottlesaremadeeachyear),Ihavetorecommendthis.ThoughI’mbreakingoneofmyownrules,thisissospecialthatanexceptionhastobemade.
Thinkofthecoelacanth.Alivingfossilthatwassupposedtohavediedoutmillionsofyearsagoyetturnedupinafishingnetandastoundedscientists.Well,thisisthecoelacanthofwhisky–adoggedsurvivorofavirtuallyextinctraceofgiants.
ForthisisIrishpotstillwhiskeyand,byrights,itshouldn’texist.A‘potstill’whiskeyisonemadeinIrishcopperstills(generallylargerthanthosefoundinScotland)usingmaltedandunmaltedbarley(unlikeScotch,whichispurelymaltedbarley).ThisgivesIrishpotstillwhiskeysasmoothandoilycharacter,withapuritycausedbytripledistillation.
Traditionally,Irishretailerssoldtheirownlabelofwhiskeyfromalocaldistiller.ButastheIrishdistillingindustrydiedoutandwasrationalisedonebyone,theseidiosyncraticone-offsweresnuffedout.EventuallyonlyMitchell’sofDublinkeptgoing(although,atonetimetheywereabletoofferBlue,YellowandRedSpot,aswell).TodayGreenSpotismadeexclusivelyforMitchell’sandentirelyfromseven-andeight-year-oldMidletonpotstillwhiskey,with25%ofthespirithavingmaturedinsherrycasks.
ForawhileitwasthesolesurvivorofthisstyleofwhiskeybuttodayithasbeenjoinedbyexpressionsfromRedbreastandMidleton.Thebottleisn’tmuchtolookat,butthenacoelacanthisprettyugly.Getinsidethebottle,though,andyou’llquicklychangeyourmind.Colour Palegold.Nose Greengagejam;clean.Taste Quite unique! Waxy, lively and full of honey and minty notes; very
clean.
Finish Disappears quite quickly, but the sweetness lingers with, curiously,somesmoke.
49 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
SuntoryHakushu,JapanYesSpecialists
www.suntory.com
Hakushu
18YearsOld
Suntory’sseconddistillerywasbuiltin1973inHakushuatthefootofMtKaikomagatakeintheSouthernJapanAlps,surroundedbypineforestsandclosetofast-flowingmountainstreams(hakushumeans‘whitesandbanks’andwhiteisJapan’smostsacredcolour).HakushuHigashi(West)wasaddedin1981andthesinglemaltproducedhereisheldinhighregard,thoughtheoriginalplantwasmothballedin2006.Forabriefperiod,thiswassaidtobethelargestsinglemaltdistilleryintheworld.
TwelvepotstillsoperateatHakushuWestand,intheJapanesemanner,theirvarieddesignallowsthedistillerytoproducespiritwitharemarkablywidevarietyofflavours.MaltispreparedoffsiteatYamazaki,fromgrainbroughtfromScotland,butthereareextensivevisitorfacilitiesatHakushuwithaninterpretationcentre,giftshop,restaurantandamuseum,housedinadramaticformermaltingnotedforitsdistinctiveandunusualdoublepagodaroofwithlinkingbridge.
Weseeboththe12-and18-year-oldexpressionsintheUKwith,veryoccasionally,sightingsofthe25YearsOldandsomelimitedbottlingsinspecialists.AnyofthesewouldbeafineintroductiontoJapanesewhiskybuttrytofindthe18-year-oldversionifpossible,becausetheadditionalmaturationhasreallyaddedsomeextradimensionstothisfinewhisky.
IthaspickedupsignificantawardsfromtheInternationalWine&SpiritsCompetition(IWSC)andInternationalSpiritsChallengeandisveryhighlyratedbymostcommentators.Thestyleisquitedelicate,attributedbysomecommentatorstotheimpactonbothdistillationandmaturationofthedistillery’sheightabovesealevel(700metres).BeingneitheraphysicistnorameteorologistIdon’tfeelcompetenttocommentontheaccuracyofthisintriguingobservation.Colour Palegold.Nose Sharpgreenapples;delicateandrefined.Taste Deceptivelylightbodiedbutwithfruitandcerealingreatbalance.Peat
mergeswithoak.Finish Spicyandlingering.SometastersremarkonaresemblancetoIrishpot
stillmake.
50 ProducerDistillery
VisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
TheSazeracCompanyBuffaloTrace,FranklinCounty,KentuckyYesSpecialists
www.buffalotrace.comseealsowww.kentuckybourbon.com
ThomasHHandy
SazeracRye
You’regoingtofindthisbothtrickytogetandexpensive,butbearwithme.
IntheUnitedStates,‘ryewhiskey’is,bylaw,madefromamashofatleast51%rye.(Theotheringredientsofthemashareusuallycornandmaltedbarley.)Itisdistilledtonomorethan160(U.S.)proof(i.e.80%abv)andagedincharred,newoakbarrels.Thewhiskeymustbeputintosuchbarrelsatnotmorethan125(U.S.)proofandspiritthathasbeenagedlikethisforatleasttwoyearsmaybefurtherdesignatedas‘straight’,asin‘straightryewhiskey’.Sofar,sogood.
ButinterestinryewhiskeydeclinedafterProhibitionandneverreallyrecovered.Untilveryrecently,thatis,whenitacquiredasortofcultstatus,helpedbypraisefromafewcritics.Asaresult,pricesofoldryewhiskeyarerisingaboutasfastasstocksaregoingdownand,consequently,itishardtofind.ThereisaSazerac18YearsOld,oflegendaryrepute,butitsellsoutassoonasbottlesareputontheshelf.
Foradifferent,butstillremarkable,experience,trytogetholdofthisversion.It’salimitedannualreleaseofsix-year-oldstock,non-chillfilteredandbottledatveryhighstrength.Inevitably,thewhiskeywillvaryslightlyfromyeartoyear.Bythetimeyoureadthisthe2010bottlingshouldbeavailable.
Theseareveryforceful,charismaticandbig,high-impactwhiskiesfromBuffaloTrace,notjustduetothehighstrengthbuttothehugerangeofintenseflavoursthatmaytakesomewhiletoadaptto,especiallyifyouareexpectingbourbon.
It’shardtocommentonthetasteofthisasthe2010releaseisn’tavailablebutitishighlyunlikelytobeadisappointmentandisverydefinitelyawhiskeywithwhichtoamazeyourfriends.Addagoodquantityofwaterandexpectablastofdifferentaromasandflavourswithalong,longfinish.ColourDarkgold.Nose Maplesyrupandmolasses;vanillaanddriedfruit.Taste Oily,mouthcoating,hintsofliquoriceandthenripefruit.
Finish Peppery;dryingandoakhints.
51 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailability
Price
CompassBoxWhiskyCompanyn/a–thisisablendinghousen/aMainlyUK,USAandFrance–butcheckonline
www.compassboxwhisky.com
Hedonism
ThisismysecondpickfromCompassBox–self-proclaimed‘artisanwhiskymakers’.Well,theyarecertainlygreatatblendingandshrewdurbanmarketers,soisitmean-spiritedtosuggestthattheyarenotquitethehorny-handedsonsoftoilthatthatdescriptionwouldimply?Youdecide.
Hedonismisoneoftheir‘LimitedRelease’range,whichmeansI’msailingclosetooneofmyownrules,butyoushouldn’thavetoomuchtroubletrackingitdowningoodspecialistwhiskyshops,ontheweborfromCompassBox’sownwebsite.What’sunusualaboutitisthatitis100%blendedgrainwhiskyand,morethanthat,it’saround20yearsoldandtakenfromfirst-fillex-bourboncasks.
EachreleaseismadeupasalimitedbatchwithwhiskiesselectedfromCameronBridge(seeseparateentry)andCambusdistilleries,butavailabilityisverymuchdeterminedbyCompassBox’sabilitytofindcasksandtheowner’swillingnesstosharethem.Dependingonyourpointofview,grainwhiskyiseitherScotland’sdirtylittlesecretor,inCompassBox’swords,a‘little-knowntreasure’.
Thisprovesjusthowgooditcanbe.Ifyoureallylikeit,thenthereisanevenhardertofindandmuchmoreexpensive‘reserve’versioncalledHedonismMaximus.Thishassimilarcharacterbuttheflavoursaremuchdeeper,evensweeterandmuchmoreintensegiventhe42-and29-year-oldwhiskies.
Aswehavecometoexpectfromthisinnovativecompany,thepackagingisaselegantandstylishasthestuffinthebottle.Likealllimitedreleasewhiskiesexpectsomebatchvariation.ColourMidgold.Nose Vanillaandcoconut.Taste Sweet,velvetysmoothwithdiaphanouswavesof liquorice,Callard&
Bowser toffee(remember those?),hintsoforangeandloadedwithex-bourbonvanillaandmarzipanflavours.
Finish Thearomasofchocolate,spiceandcoconutlingersatisfyinglyandholdtogetherwell.
52 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentre
AvailabilityPrice
Suntoryn/a–thisisablendTherearecentresatSuntory’sYamazakiandHakushudistilleriesRare
www.suntory.com
Hibiki
17YearsOld
Beforemovingontothe30-year-oldversionofthisproduct(seenextentry),whichisexpensiveandveryhardtofind,youmightliketotryitsyoungerbrother,whichisaltogethermoreaffordable.YoumightalsorememberitfromitsappearanceintheexcellentOscar-winning2003movieLostinTranslation(abreakthroughroleforScarlettJohansson,asifyoucared).
Manywhotrythisforthefirsttimewilladmittobeingseducedbythepackaging,whichisfairenough,asitisbothveryattractiveandsufficientlydifferenttodrawattentiontoitselfwithoutbeingoutréorundulyoutrageous.Whichprobablydoesn’tsoundthatbigadealuntilyouconsiderhowmanywhiskiesthereareontheshelves,withoutevenbeginningtocountotherdistilledspirits,letalonewine–yougetthepicture?
SowelldonetoSuntory’sresourcefulmarketingdepartment,butallthey’vereallydoneisgiventhisstand-outwhiskyabottletomatch.Hibikimeans‘harmony’,apparently,andthedistillerythemselvesdescribethisas‘amasterblendofcarefullyselectedfull-bodiedmaltandgrainwhiskies.Thismulti-award-winningblendcreatesaprofoundaromawithanelegantandmellowwoodyrichness,accompaniedbysweet,long-lastingcitrusflavour.’
Foronce,thehypeisfullyjustified.InJapan,apparently,Hibiki17commandsapremiumabovesimilarlyagedsinglemaltsandIcanwellbelievethatthisisso.Itisreallyaverycompletewhisky,exceptionallyeasytodrinkwhileatthesametimeremainingcomplexandsomewhatalluring–thereisanelusivequalitytothetasteandfinishthatishardtopindown.TryandserveitblindtoyourfriendsandtheywilllikelybeamazedatthequalityandwillbeforcedtorethinktheirprejudicesandpreconceptionsaboutJapanesewhisky.Thisisworld-classstuff–sotrytoimaginehowgoodthe30YearsOldisgoingtobe!Colour Palegold.Nose Citrushints,vanilla,oakandfloral.Lightbutnotinsubstantial.Taste Quite complex and slow to evolve,with pine resin sweetness, vanilla
andtoffee.Somesaltyhintsasitopens.Developswithwaterorice.
Finish Appearstofinishquitequickly,thenreappearstodelightandperplex.
53 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentre
AvailabilityPrice
Suntoryn/a–thisisablendTherearecentresatSuntory’sYamazakiandHakushudistilleriesRare
www.suntory.com
Hibiki
30YearsOld
What’sthebestblendedwhiskyintheworld?It’saScotch,naturally.Well,notintheopinionofthejudgesattheWorldWhiskiesAwardsin2007and2008whoawardedthattitletothispremiumwhiskyfromSuntory.Mindyou,itshouldn’thavebeenacompletesurprise:Hibiki30alsocollectedthehighestlevelofawardattheInternationalSpiritsCompetitionin2004andthenagainin2006,2007and2008.In2007theyalsopickedupaBestinClass.Theseawardsarejudgedblind,bytheway,withanumberofexperiencedjudgessoit’sworthnotingwhiskiesthatwinregularly.
JapaneseblendsareratherdifferentfromthoseproducedinScotland.Apartfromthefactthatthewhiskytastesdifferent,thesmallerJapaneseindustrydoesnotexchangeortradewhiskiesfromdifferentdistilleriesinthewaythatisthenorminScotland.Socompaniesrelyontheirownresources.
FortunatelyforSuntory,theirYamazakidistilleryhasanunusualvarietyofstills,twelveinallinsixdifferentshapesandsizes,producingawiderangeofflavours.TothistheyaddtheproduceofHakushu,Hibiki’shomedistillery,whereagainthereareanumberofdifferentstills.Andthentheyincreasetheiroptionsevenmorebyusingmanydifferenttypesofcasktomaturethespirit,includingJapaneseMizunaraoak.Asaresulttheblenderhasaremarkablywidevarietyofwhiskiestochoosefrom–infact,morethan30differentwhiskiesareblendedtocreateHibiki,usinggrainwhiskyfromSuntory’sChitadistillery.
Asyouwouldexpect,thisisanexpensiveproduct(expecttopay£500–600abottle)anditwilltakealittlebitofefforttotrackitdownbutitis,officially,thebestblendedwhiskyintheworld.Whatelsedoyoureallyneedtoknow?ColourDeepbeatencopper.Nose Raisin,figsanddateswithahintofBrazilnutandsweetdarkcocoa.Taste Darksweetnessandapleasantlingeringwoodiness.Finish Long,darkandveryrich.
54 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
HighlandDistillersHighlandPark,Kirkwall,OrkneyYesPrettywidelyavailable
www.highlandpark.co.uk
HighlandPark
18YearsOld
ThisisthefirstoffourwhiskiesbyHighlandParklistedinthisbook.Four.Fromonedistillery?HaveIgonemad?
Idon’tthinkso.Youcouldmakeacasethatthisisthebestwhiskyintheworld.Certainlyit’swonmoreawardsthanIcanbebotheredtocountandatleastoneauthority(PaulPacult)thinksthatHighlandParkmake‘thebestspiritintheworld’.
Whatismore,whenIaskedmy‘oracles’HighlandParkwastheirrunawaywinner,gatheringnearlytwicethenominationsofanyotherbrand.Quiteafewofthepeoplewhovotedforitarecompetitorssothatisaprettyimpressiveendorsement.
ButlackingPaul’sebullienceandconfidentcertainty,I’llcontentmyselfwithsayingit’sprettydamnfine.You’regoingtohavetolookfarandwidetobeatthisstuff.Thereareseveralreasonswhy.Thedistillerysomewhatpretentiouslyrefertotheseastheir‘fivekeystones’sowedescenddangerouslyclosetomarketingspeakhere,butbearwithme.Theytalkabouttraditionalfloormalting,aromaticpeat,coolmaturation,sherryoakcasksandcarefulcaskrotation.
Thingis,it’snotjustmarketingfroth.I’velookedbackinhistoryandtheyweredoingmostofthisstuffasearlyas1924andprobablywellbeforethat,it’sjustthattheydidn’tbangonaboutit.So,withHighlandParkyougetaverytraditionalstyleofwhiskyfromaprivatelyownedScottishcompanyinafunky,modernbottlethatkeepsgettingbetterthemoretimeyouspendwithit(thewhisky,notthebottle).
ReadonforthreemorewhiskiesfromHighlandParkandpreparetobeamazed.Oh,andtryandgettothedistilleryatleastonceinyourlife.ColourMediumbrightgold.Nose Asweet,‘comehither’nose;sherryandmarzipan.
Taste Fruity,rich,sweetandagreeablycomplex.Greatdepth.Finish Smokyhintsfadegentlyintothebackground.
55 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailability
Price
HighlandDistillersHighlandPark,Kirkwall,OrkneyYesExclusivetodutyfreeshops,soyou’llhavetoflytobuyit(sorry)
www.highlandpark.co.uk
HighlandPark
21YearsOld
I’mnotsupposedtohavefavouritesbut,asyou’verealisedbynow,HighlandParkisdefinitelyone.Orkneyisaspecialanduniqueplace,withastringofislandslinkedbycauseways,ferriesandplanes;ancientmonumentsscatteredeverywhere;athrivingandcreativecraftcommunity;incrediblelight;unexpectedpanoramasateveryturn;abandonedgunemplacements;amazingwildlifeandtwoincredibledistilleries.
NottoslightthenearbyScapaDistilleryinanyway(it’sprettygood)butHighlandParkisworld-class.Anditdoesn’tgetanybetter,atleastnotwithintheboundsofmostbudgets,thantheirsignature21YearsOldexpression.
Thiswasaworthywinnerofthe2009WorldWhiskiesAwardfortheWorld’sBestSingleMaltWhisky.Isatonthepanelanditdeservedeverymarkitgot.HighlandParkisnotedforincrediblebalance,longdevelopmentandasubtlepeatsmokethatcontinuestoengageandtantaliseandrewardyourtastebudsthemoretimeyouspendwithit.It’snottheforcefulpeatofIslaybutamorecomplexandrefinedflavourthattheobsessivesatHighlandParkmaintainisonlypossiblebyburningthreedifferenttypesofpeatfromtheirownpeatbog.
Butwatchout!Afterthesuccessofthiswhisky,demandincreasedgreatlyandthebottlingstrengthwasreducedfrom47.5%abvtoastandard40%soyoumaynotbedrinkingthewhiskythatgarneredallthepraise.There’snothingwrongwiththelatestbottlings,butsomeoldstockmightbeavailable–ifyouseeit,snapitup.
STOPPRESS:ThelatestnewsfromOrkneyisthatthey’llshortlyberevertingtothehigherstrengthsocheckthesmallprintonthelabelandgetthereallygoodstuff.ColourNaturalcolour;thedistillerssay‘reddishgoldOrkneysunset’butthat’s
abitfanciful!Nose Butterscotch,darkchocolateandorange.Taste Lush,fullflavourandgreatbalancewithcandiedorangepeelandspicy
darkchocolate,leadingtoarichsmokysensationwithhintsofroastednuts.Ahoneyedsweetness.
Finish Rich,complexandsweetsmokysensationthensoft,medium-dryfinish.
56 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailability
Price
HighlandDistillersHighlandPark,Kirkwall,OrkneyYesPrettywidelyavailableinspecialistretailers
www.highlandpark.co.uk
HighlandPark
30YearsOld
HeregoeswhiskynumberthreefromHighlandParkandwearemovingintotherealmsofthetrulysublime–and,whatismore,trulysublimevalue.Yes,abottleofthiswillcostcloseto£200buttheequivalentinchateaubottledclaretwouldbeseveraltimesthatandthere’severybitasmuchtradition,craftsmanshipandqualityinthisbottle.And,ifyou’relookingforvalue,thisbottlewilllastratherlongerthantheclaret,especiallyasitcomesatahealthy48.1%abv.
Fortunately,thedistilleryhasprettygoodstocksoftheseolderwhiskiesandthisletsustasteamoretraditionalstyleofwhiskymaking.Forawhile,HighlandParkflirtedwithreducedpeatinglevels,asmostofthespiritwasdestinedforblendinglighterstylessuchasCuttySark,butthatisn’tthecasehere.
AgehastemperedthedistinctiveHighlandParksmokebutit’sstillclearlyevident,justmoresubtle.AndIlikethat.OnepersonaldifficultythatIhavewithsomeofthemoreaggressivelypeatedstylesisjustthat–aggressivepeating,whichformecanoftenbeoverlydominant,maskinginherentspiritcharacter.It’slikeagiantsteamrolleronthepalate.
Nodangerofthathere.Thereissomebroodingsmokiness,butitisbalancedbysweetnessandgreatvitalityandfreshnessforawhiskyofthisage.Theextrastrengthmeansit’sattractivelyfullinflavourand,unusuallyforanolderwhisky,canstandthecarefuladditionofwatertobringoutthemorearomaticnotes.Someskilleddistillinghasbeencomplementedbygoodwoodselectionandcarefulwarehousing,andtheresultisastellarwhiskythatiswortheverypenny.ColourDark.Nose Warmingandround;honeyandsmoke.Taste Beautifully balanced and full bodied; honey, vanilla, oak and smoke
dancingthroughthepalatebutneverdominating.Finish Alloftheabovegracefullycombine,fadingoutwithspiceandwhiffsof
gentlesmoke.
57 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailability
Price
HighlandDistillersHighlandPark,Kirkwall,OrkneyYesSurprisinglyeasytofindinspecialists,giventheageandprice!
www.highlandpark.co.uk
HighlandPark
40YearsOld
Takeaseat:thisisthemostexpensivewhiskyinthisbook.Expecttopayaround£800forabottle.Forthatyougetahandsomebox,leatherboundbookletanda48.3%abvspiritthatdeservedlywonthe2009WorldWhiskiesAwardforWorld’sBestNewRelease.
TherulehereisthatIwon’trecommendanythingover£1,000andanythinginthreefiguresneedscarefulthought.Butyoudon’tneedtohesitate.Buythiswithconfidence–inmyview(andthisissharedbyagoodpartofthewhiskycommunity)thisissimplyasgoodasitgets.Withthechangefromthe£1,000youcanbuysomeprettyfinedramsbutthis40YearsOldwantstobesetasideforveryspecialoccasionsandveryspecialfriends.Havingsaidthat,you’llmakeaspecialfriendoutofanyoneyouservethisto(providedtheyhaveanykindofcriticaljudgement)andyoushoulddrinkit–don’tjustsetitonashelfandgazewonderinglyuponit.Appreciate,don’tvenerateisthemottohere.
Thisisanexceptionallycomplexandrefinedwhiskywithmultiplelayersofflavourthatwillopenupinthemouthandonthefinishasyoucarefullysipandsavouryourdram.And,thenexttimeyougobacktoit,you’llfindsomethingmoreandsomethingdifferent.HighlandPark40justkeepsongrowinganddevelopingandrewardscarefulstudy.
ButIdon’twantyoutothinkofthisashardwork.Aboveall,thisisawhiskytoenjoy.Noteveryday,ofcourse,butitreallyisawhiskytotrybeforeyoudie.Andthenputthatoff,atleastuntilyoufinishthebottle.ColourMidgold.Usingrefillcasks,timehasaddedcolourveryslowly.Nose Surprisinglydelicateandrefined;stillfreshanddistinctively‘Highland
Park’withhoney,chocolateandsoftsmoke.Taste Ifawhiskycanpossess‘theXfactor’thishasgotit–justsensationally
complexandalluring.Superbbalanceandwaveafterwaveofflavour,withnooneelementdominant.
Finish After showingmore heather honey sweetness and hints of citrus, thesmokefloatsbackforalasthurrah.
58 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentre
AvailabilityPrice
Whyte&MackayLtdIsleofJura,Craighouse,JuraYes–andaluxurious(forwhichread‘expensive’)holidayapartmentSpecialists
www.isleofjura.com
IsleofJura
Superstition
AttheriskofoffendingthegoodfolksatWhyte&Mackay,I’dsaythat,ingeneral,theIsleofJurasinglemaltsarenothingtogettooexcitedabout.They’repleasantenoughbutprettybland,which,sincethisdistillerywasbuiltinthe1960stocreateemploymentonthislonelybutbeautifulislandandservetheblendingindustrywithaSpeyside-stylespirit,isnorealsurprise.
Inrecentyears,though,theyhavemadesomeeffortstoraisetheirprofileandthestandard10YearsOldisprettywidelyseen.Don’tbotherwiththat,though.Whatyouwant,ifyouwantanything,isSuperstition.
ThisisamixtureofheavilypeatedwhiskyintheIslaystyle(notoriginallywhatJurawasbuilttoproduce)andsomeoldercasksthataddwarmthandsubtlety.Accordingly,itdoesn’tcarryanagestatement,butdon’tletthatorthenameputyouoff.It’spleasantlydifferentfromthewhiskiesonnearbyIslay.
Juraitselfisnotableforbeinghometolessthan200peopleandaround5,000reddeer.Theywanderabouteverywhere–mainly,itseemstome,ontheisland’sonemainroadwheretheycanbesomethingofahazard.JurawasalsoGeorgeOrwell’srefugewhenheescapedfromLondontowrite1984andthesiteoftheinfamousKFoundationBurnaMillionQuidartevent.Yes,rockmusiciansturnedartistsBillDrummondandJimmyCautyquietlytravelledtoJuraandburnt£1min£50notes.Asyouwould.Obviously.
Withtheirfondnessforspecialeditions,IsleofJurareallyoughttocommemoratethis:averysmokydramat£50abottlewouldseemappropriate!ColourDeepbronze.Nose Wood smoke, bacon and freshly cut peat. Phenolic notes start to
dominate.Taste Spice,honey,pineandpeatflavoursminglewithnutsandgrassy/floral
notes.Finish Smokefadesinagainattheend.
59 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentre
AvailabilityPrice
IrishDistillersGroupMidleton,Cork,IrelandTwo!OneinDublinandoneatMidletonDistillery,CorkSpecialists
www.jamesonwhiskey.com
Jameson
18YearsOldLimitedReserve
Jameson’sisthebest-sellingbrandofIrishwhiskeyand,undertheownershipofcorporategiantsPernodRicard,hasbeenexpandingrapidly.Thewhiskiescompriseablendofpotstillandgrainspirit,allproducedatthehugeMidletonDistillerynearCork.Withabewilderingrangeofstills,theplantiscapableofproducingaconsiderablevarietyofdifferentstyles,makingtheroleoftheMasterBlenderparticularlysignificant,especiallywhenanumberofdifferentcaskscomeintoplay.
Thoughit’shardlycheap–abottleofthe18YearOldwillsetyouback£70–Ijusthavetoletthisonethrough.IhadthegreatprivilegeoftastingareleaseofthiswithIrishDistillers’BarryCrockett,whowasbroughtupinacottageinthedistillery’sgroundsandtodayisMasterDistilleratMidleton.ThatwaswelloverayearagobutIbelieveIcanstillrecallthetaste,sodistinctiveaproductisit.
Thefactthatitimmediatelypickedupaclutchofsignificantawardsprovesthatthiswasnoflashinthepan.Acombinationofex-bourbonandsherrybarrelsareused,andthentheyareagedaccordingtothelabelfor‘atleast’18years.Icanbelieveit:thisissplendidlymature,withoutinanywayexhibitinganysignsofbeingoverlywoodyortired.
Thisisoneofalargerrange–thereisaSpecialReserve(12yearsold),aGoldReserve(non-agedbut13–14yearsoldonaverage),SignatureReserve(fordutyfreeonly),thisLimitedReserveandfinally,ifyourpursecanstretchevenfurther,abrilliantbutconfusinglynamedRarestVintageReserve,whichdoesn’tactuallycarryeitheranageoravintagedate,thoughitdoes(notveryhelpfully)carrythebottlingdate,currently2007.You’vegottoloveIrishmarketing!ColourDeepbronze.Nose AromaticChristmascake,honey,vanillaandtoffee.Taste Cloves,nutsandnuttyfudge,awonderfulbalance;andthebourbonand
oloroso sherry casks are beautifully integrated into a smooth andharmoniouswhole.Mediumbodybutcomplex.
Finish Holdstogetherwell,asalltheflavourslingernicely.
60 ProducerDistillery
VisitorCentre
Availability
Price
Diageon/a–thisisablend,but‘brandhome’isCardhuCardhuDistillery,Speyside(it’sjustalongtheroadfromTheMacallan)Everywhere–ifyoucan’tfindthisyou’renottryingveryhard
www.johnniewalker.com
JohnnieWalker
BlackLabel
Intruth,thisisn’toneofmypersonalfavourites.IfindthisJohnnieWalkerexpressionanditslittlebrotherRedLabelalittletooharshandsmokyformytaste.
Butyoucan’targuewithsuccessandthisisoneofthebest-sellingpremiumblendsintheworld.Moretothepoint,ifyouaskaroundthewhiskyindustryBlackLabelkeepscomingupasafavouriteorawhiskywhichotherdistillersandblendersadmire.So,ifyoulikebigflavoursthenthisisonyourlist.
TodayJohnnieWalkerispartofDiageowho,in2009,controversiallyshutthedooroncloseto200yearsofwhiskyhistorywhentheyclosedtheirKilmarnockbottlingplant,thetraditionalWalkerhome.CueoutragefromthelocalsandScottishpoliticiansbutitdoesn’tappeartohavemadetheslightestbitofdifferencetotheworldwidelegionoffanswhoprobablyneitherknownorcarewhereKilmarnockis.Sorry,Kilmarnock.
TheBlackLabelblendcanbetracedbackto1867whenAlexanderWalkerlaunchedhis‘OldHighlandWhisky’inadistinctivesquarebottleandslantingblackandgoldlabel.Thesquarebottleprovedagreatboontothebrandindevelopingexportsales–becauseoftheshapemorebottlescouldbesqueezedintoanygivenspaceandshippingcostsreduced.Ofsuchsimplethingsarelegendsmade.
Butthereisalotmoretothisthanjustcleverpackaging.BlackLabelsucceedsnotsimplyasasymbolofaffluenceandstatusinmanymarketsbutbecauseformanyit’sthebenchmarkforapremiumblend.Thisisatraditionalwhiskythat’snottobeunder-estimated.Personally,Iwouldn’ttakeittomydesertisland,butalotofexpertjudgeswould.ColourAmediumbrightgold.Nose Maplesweetnesswithhintsofsmoke.Maltandcitrus.Taste Robust and forceful, thepeaty smoke to the forebut alsodried fruits,
sherryandvanilla;neverunbalanced–powerwithdiscretion.Finish Mellow,spicyandagreatlate-nightdram.
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Diageon/a–thisisablend,but‘brandhome’isCardhuCardhuDistillery,Speyside(it’sjustalongtheroadfromTheMacallan)Global,especiallyhigh-end,tax-freeoutlets
www.johnniewalker.com
JohnnieWalker
BlueLabelKingGeorgeVEdition
Sometimesonlyluxurywilldo.Unadulterated,in-your-face,loadsamoney,show-offluxury.
Imagineyou’vegotaRussianoligarchtoimpress,orakeybusinesscontactintheFarEastneedsagift–thatistheKingGeorgeVEditionmoment.Becausethisfeelstomelikeanunashamedlyflamboyantwhiskyforthenouveauriche.Fromtheelaboratepresentationpackagingwiththetwinmonogrammedstudsyouneedtoremovetoopenthehugebox,tothedeliberatelytheatricalritualofopeningitshiddendoubledoors,thesilk-linedinteriorwiththeparchmentcertificate,thecrystaldecanteronitsmatchingplinth,andthemeticulouslydetailedandvery,veryheavycorkstopper,it’sallabouttheglamorouspackaging.
Except,d’oh,thisisalsoverygoodwhisky.Didyouimaginethatthebest-sellingScotchwhiskyintheworldwasgoingtoputitsnameonanyoldgutrot,justbecausetheboxlooksgood(spectacular,tobehonest)?
Youcanpayupto£1,000forasingleglass(yes,glass)ofsomeJohnnieWalkerstylesbutImaintainthat’sjustshowingoff–flagshipprojectsdesignedmainlyforPRimpact.So,formostofus,thismustremaintheultimateJohnnieWalker.Andveryfineitis,too,aswellitmightbeatapproaching£400abottle.
Sotreatyourselfatleastonceinyourlifeand,asyousip,askyourself,‘Whatarethepoorpeopledoingtonight?’ColourDeep and dark, suggestive of great age and some sherry casks in the
blend.Nose Initiallysweet,thenmorethanahintofsmokeandlotsofbody.Thisis
goingtobeBIG!Taste Averybig, forcefulwhisky, surprisinglyhoneyedandwellmannered,
with the smoky Port Ellen coming through late. Still vibrant andcomplex,despitetheageofsomeoftheblendconstituents.
Finish A languorous, unhurried finish; very rounded, with the sweeterSpeysiderscomplementingthelastfadingnotesofpeatsmoke.
62 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
KilchomanDistilleryCo.LtdKilchoman,IslayYesSpecialistsandonline
www.kilchomandistillery.com
Kilchoman
I’mprobablystretchingmyownruleshere,becauseyou’regoingtohavetolookreallyhardtofindthis,butthephilosophybehindthisbookistoencourageentrepreneursandinnovatorsandtopersuadeyoutolookalittlebitfurtherforunusualanddeservingspirits,sobearwithme.
Ifweruleouttheillicitmanufactureofmoonshine,thisisprobablyascloseasyoucangetto‘traditional’distilling,atleastfromthepointofviewofscale.KilchomanisthefirstfarmhousedistillerytobebuiltinScotlandforaverylongwhile,andthefirstonIslayfor124years.Therearenowseveralsimilarprojectsinseveraldifferentcountriesinvariousstagesofcompletion,butKilchomanwassomethingofapioneeranddeservesrespectandsupportforthis,ifnothingelse.
ThevisionofenthusiastAnthonyWills,Kilchomanbegandistillingin2005andreleaseditsfirstwhiskyin2009(itsoldnewmakespiritpriortothat).Allthebarleyusedisgrownontheneighbouringfarm;thereisafloormalting;noneofthebarrelsleavetheislandduringmaturation;andthematuredspiritisbottledonIslay.However,theycanonlymakearound90,000litresofspiriteachyearandsosuppliesarerestricted:infact,theInauguralReleaseofjust8,300bottlessoldoutwithindays.Thealreadyhighpricespromptlydoubledonthesecondarymarketascollectorsviedforabottle.
However,theinitialwaveofenthusiasmhavingpassed,bottlesofsubsequentreleasesshouldbemoreaccessible,ifnotwidelyfound,butcertainlynotanycheaper.Trytotrackonedown,impressyourfriendsandsupportsomerealwhiskypeople.
NB:TheflavourofKilchomanwilldevelopoverthevariousreleasesasthespiritmatures,sothenotesbelowareaguide,basedontheInauguralReleaseedition.ColourAgedmainlyinex-bourbonbarrels,sopalestraw.Futurereleasesmay
bedarker.Nose Surprisingly fruity, plenty of peat smoke but delicate citrus notes
surprise.
Taste Creamyandmouthcoating;driedfruits,smokeandtoffee.Finish Clean,refreshing,lingeringsmokehintsdriftonforsometime.
63 ProducerDistillery
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BeamGlobalSpirits&Wine,Inc.JimBeam,ClermontDistillery,KentuckyYesSpecialistsandonline
www.knobcreek.comseealsowww.smallbatch.com
KnobCreek
KnobCreekisanothersmallbatchbourbon,distilledatthelargeJimBeamdistilleryatClermont,Kentucky.Itgetsitsname,mildlytitillatingforUKdrinkersinavaguelysmuttysortofaway,fromacreek(stream)about20milesfromthedistillerythatranpastAbrahamLincoln’sboyhoodhome.Apparently,Lincoln’sfatherworkedinanothernearbydistilleryandLincolnhimselfwasrescuedfromdrowninginsaidstream.ItseemsthatnooneinthemarketingdepartmentconsideredthealternativeassociationsofthenameoutsideoftheUSA.
Anyway,withthatoutofthewaywecanmoveontothewhiskey.Thishasachievedasortofcultstatus,partlyduetotheastutemanagementofrecentshortagesofstockcreatingadditionalpent-updemand.Youcanevenbuyat-shirt,itselfalimitededition,tocommemoratethe‘drought’.
KnobCreekwascreatedbythelegendarydistillerBookerNoeinanattempttocreateapre-Prohibitionstyleofbourbonandalso,thoughthedistillerstendtoglossoverthisbit,tocomeupwithanAmericanofferingthatwouldmakebourbonfashionableagainandcompetewithsinglemaltScotch.
Inthat,smallbatchbourbonhasbeenagreatsuccess,withthis9-year-old,50%abvproductbeingoneofthecategoryleaders.
OthersfromBeamGlobalincludeBooker’s,BasilHayden’sandBaker’s.Naturally,theircompetitorshaveenteredthemarketwiththeirversionsalso.Asthesmallbatchhandlesuggests,suppliesofthesewhiskiescanbevariableandtheremaybeslightvariationsinstylefrombatchtobatch.It’sallpartofthecharmandthey’reunlikelytobelessthanverygood.ColourMidgold.Nose Nutty,darkcitrusandoak.Taste Rich,full-bodiedandcomplex.Somespicenotes.Finish Along,consistentfinishwithalingeringaftertaste.
64 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
DiageoLagavulin,IslayYesSpecialistsandonline
www.malts.com
Lagavulin
16YearsOld
AeneasMacDonaldwritesofamanwho‘waskeptawakeforhoursinthenightbytheprolongedrhapsodiesoftwoHighlanders,menwhohadnothingelseincommonintheworldbuttheiraffectionforandpraiseofLagavulin’.Ithas,hesays,‘analmostlegendaryfame’.Thatwasin1930and,ifanything,itsfamehasgrown.Forfansoftherichlyphenolic,peaty,saltywhiskiesofIslaythisisprimusinterpares,thoughitmustbeallowedthatArdbegrunscloseinthepassionofitsdevotees.
UsingbarleymaltedatthenearbyPortEllenmaltings(alsoDiageo),Lagavulinisdistilledunusuallyslowly–aprocessthatthemakersclaimgives‘thecharacteristicroundnessandsoftmellowedges’tothespirit.Theycertainlytaketheirtimeovermaturation,withthestandardClassicMaltsbottlingbeingreleasedat16yearsold.RumourhasitthatJohnnyDepp,theteetotalactor,willhappilyorderaglassjusttonoseit,sostrikingisLagavulin’saroma(it’snotclearwhogetstopolishitofflater).MichaelJacksonfamouslydescribedthenoseas‘LapsangSouchongandfruitysherry’.Soundsgood,doesn’tit?
ThoughthereisamoreexpensiveDistiller’sEditionfinishedinPedroXimenezcasksandayounger,high-strengthversioncuriously,andunjustifiably,evenmoreexpensivestill,thisistheoneyouwant.Marvelatitsrichtextures,preparetobestunnedbythewavesofintenseflavourandsitdownbeforeyoutakeyourfirstsip–thisispotentstuff.
ReadonforanotherstunningwhiskyfromLagavulin’snext-doorneighbour.ColourDeepgold.Nose Intensepeatrush,followedbysweetorangesandtoffee.Taste Ahuge,mouth-fillingwhisky.Dry, thensomesherriedsweetnesswith
toffeeandasaltyhint.Finish Massivepeatsmokeandsaltyclimax.
65 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
FortuneBrandsInc.Laphroaig,IslayYesSpecialistsandonline
www.laphroaig.com
Laphroaig
QuarterCask
LaphroaigisthefirstofthreedistilleriesyoucometofollowingthecoastroadroundIslayoutofPortEllenanditpresentsasplendidsight.Thereisstillafloormaltingsonsiteandexcellentvisitorfacilities(thoughyoureallywanttoeatintheKilnCafeatArdbegjustalongtheroad).
TheQuarterCaskbottlingisasplendidattempttore-createastyleofwhiskythatwouldhavebeenmorecommonahundredormoreyearsagowhensmallercaskswereusedtomaturespirit.Thismayhavebeenbecausethefirkincask(holdingninegallons,oraround41litres)wasrelativelyfreelyavailable,duetoitsuseinthebrewingindustry,orbecausethesmallercaskwasmorepopularforprivatesalesor,asthedistillerythemselvesliketosuggest–ratherromantically–becausetheywereeasierforsmugglerstotransport!Possibly,allthreeplayedtheirpart.
Thekeypoint,however,isthatwhiskymaturesfasterinasmallercaskandthewoodhasagreaterinfluence(30%moreaccordingtothedistillers).Whatismore,intheirpursuitoftraditionLaphroaigdon’tchillfilterthiswhiskyandtheybottleitatahealthy48%abv.Goodonthem.
It’saclassicIslaymalt–salty,peaty,phenolicandveryfullflavoured.Hugelyimpressive.
Theresult,inmyopinionatleast,isahugeimprovementonthestandard10YearsOld(40%abv)–it’srounder,morevibrant,fullerandsweeter.EverythingyoulookforinLaphroaig,infact,andmore,provingonthisoccasion,atleast,thattheoldwaysreallywerebest.ColourQuitepale,likebeatenbronze.Nose Tons of peat smoke, sweetness, coconut cream and some chocolate
notes.Taste Bold and assertive, full bodied and mouth coating (higher strength
alcohol and non-chill filtering coming into play here) but gentle and
sweetcomparedtothe10YearsOld.Finish Amazingly extended finish, with the peat smoke and some coal fires
comingintoplay.Spicenotesandthedistillerysay‘zestyorange’.Beatsme.
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J&AMitchell&Co.LtdSpringbank,Campbeltown,ArgyllandButeYesSpecialistsandonline
www.springbankwhisky.com
Longrow
cv
TheoriginalLongrowwasanearlycasualtyinCampbeltown’slongandsorrydecline,butthenameatleastwasrestoredin1973whensomeheavilypeatedmaltwasdistilledatSpringbanktoprovethatIslayneednothaveamonopolyonthisstyle.EventuallytheideacaughtonandLongrowisnowdistilledregularly,thoughnotingreatvolume.
SoyoucouldsaythatLongrowispeatedSpringbank–exceptthatitisn’t.Thefactthatthemaltispeatedisclearlythekeydifferencebut,unlikeSpringbank,thisundergoesaconventionaldoubledistillation.Amixofsherryandbourboncasksareusedformaturationtocontributesweetnessandspicebeforethepeattakesover.
Longrowisn’texactlyeasytofindbutthenon-agedCVexpressionshouldturnupinspecialistsanditcanbepurchasedonlinefromthedistillery’swebsite.Likeallofthecompany’s‘standard’output,it’sbottledat46%abvandnon-chillfiltered–policiesthatIcanonlycommend.Theresultisgreatermouthfeelinthewhiskyandapleasingoilinessthatspeaksofthegenuinearticle:wouldthatmoredistillerswouldfollowthislead.Notetoconsumers–it’sworththeextracost!
Thisisnotthemostsubtlewhiskyyou’lleverencounterbut,despiteitsstrength,manytastersfinditgoeswellwithoutaddingwater.Ifyoulikebig,bold,assertiveflavoursandyou’ve‘done’Islaythenthisiswhereyougonext.Ifitappeals,thereisaLongrow100Proofversion,severalagedexpressionsandthestrangeGajaBarolofinish.ColourMidgold.Nose Supremebalancebetweenpeatsmoke,vanillaandcardamom.Taste Boldandassertive;robust.Vanillacomestothefore,thencitrus(lemon
marmalade?)andwavesofspiceandsmoke.Finish Surprisingly gentle and balanced, with the vanilla toffee coming
throughasthesmokeclears.
67 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
MackmyraSvenskWhiskyABMackmyra,Valbo,SwedenPhonetochecktouravailabilitySpecialistsandonline
www.mackmyra.com
Mackmyra
Oneofthereallyexcitingthingsabouttheworldofwhiskyinthelastdecadehasbeentheexplosionofnewproducers,allstrivingtooffertheirowndistinctiveslantonasimplemixtureofwater,barleyandyeast.Someoftheofferingshavesomewaytogoyet,whilesomearefascinating,buteventheverybestofthempresentaproblemforthisbook:availability.Thevastmajorityoftheseproducersaretiny,boutiqueoperationsproducingverylimitedquantitiesofwhiskythattendstoselloutveryquickly.
MackmyraisnottheonlywhiskydistilleryinSweden,thoughitwasthefirst,butbecauseit’sbeenaroundsince1999thereisachancethatyou’llbeabletotracksomeofitdown.Realistically,you’llhavetotakewhatyoucanget(thefirstreleaseinMarch2006soldoutinlessthananhour)butthat’snohardship.
Thisismorethanacuriosity.Thereareanumberofspecialeditionsandlimitedreleasesbutwhatyou’llprobablystumbleoverisaversionoftheirPreludium(theinitialreleasesfromthedistillery),butpossiblytheFirstEditionmightalsobeseen.Allareworthtrying:Mackmyrakeepexperimentingwithdifferentcasksandfinishes,andtheyevenmaturetheirwhisky50metresundergroundinanoldmine!
Youcanbuyyourowncaskfromthedistilleryandgoandvisitit.Beaware,however,thatMackmyraisnotinexpensive.PresumablyduetohighlabourcostsinSwedenandthefactthatallproductsarebottledataround46%abv,abottletypicallycostsaround£50–60(moreforPreludium,whichisalsoinasmaller-than-normalhalf-litrebottle).Worthit,though.Colour Palegold.Nose Fruitywithcitrus,pear,apple,honey,lightoakandcerealnotes.Taste Citrus,caramelandhoney.Alightsuggestionofoakmaybenoted.Finish Hintsofdarkchocolate.
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FortuneBrands,Inc.Maker’sMark,Loretto,KentuckyYesSomesupermarketsandspecialists
www.makersmark.com
Maker’sMark
ThisKentuckybourbonwasforsometimesomethingofacultamongdrinkersonbothsidesoftheAtlantic,drivenbythepersonalityoftheebullientBillSamuelsJr,adirectdescendantofthefounder.Imethimsomeyearsagoanditwasn’tlongbeforehehandedmeaguntolookat–anantiqueasithappenedbut,forasimplechaplikeme,itwasasomewhatunnervingmoment.
Itissomeyears,however,sincethedistillerywasprivatelyowned.Thoughitsmarketinglikestogivetheimpressionofindependence,thecompanyhasinfactpassedthroughseveralcorporatehandssince1981andistodaypartofFortuneBrands,whoalsoownJimBeam,LaphroaigandCanadianClubwhiskies,amongotherfamousnames.
Itstillappearsidiosyncratic,however–uniquelyamongstUSwhiskiesstylingitself‘whisky’intheScottishmanner;increasingproductionin2002bybuildingaseconddistilleryalongsidethefirst,insteadofsimplyexpandingtheexistingplant;androtatingtheirbarrelswithinthewarehouselevelstoachievemoreevenageing.
Itsappearanceisalsohighlydistinctive:asquarebottleiscappedbyredwax,whichdripsontothebottle.Moreimportantly,themashbillrecipedoesnotincludeanyrye,butrathercontainsexclusivelyyellowcorn,redwinterwheatandmaltedbarley.Distillationstartsinacolumnstillandisfinishedinacopperpotstill,allofwhichcontributetothefinalflavour.
Itisparticularlyappreciatedforitscomparativelygentleandsubtletaste,moremellowthanmanybourbons.Today,thoughmorewidelydistributedthanwhenthebrandwasbuilt,ithasmaintainedsomethingofareputationasadrinker’sdrink:oneforthose‘intheknow’.Nowthatincludesyou.ColourAmber.Nose Vanillaandspice,tropicalfruitsandsomesweetoakwood.Taste At45%abv,thisismediumtofullbodied,withspices(ginger),caramel
andamouth-coatingoiliness.
Finish Somesmoke,delicatelycombiningwithhoneyedfruits.
69 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
HeavenHillDistilleries,Inc.Bernheim,Louisville,KentuckyYesSpecialists
www.heaven-hill.com
MellowCorn
Here’ssomethingunusualanduniquelyAmerican–thenearestthingyou’llgettomoonshinethat’slegal(theScotchequivalentis‘newmake’–seetheentryforGlenglassaugh’sSpiritDrink).It’sfarfromthenicestwhiskyyou’lldrink,atleastcomparedtotheotherslistedhere,butit’scheap,funandworthtrying(ifonlytounderstandthebeneficialinfluencesofmaltedbarleyandageing).
Butfirst,awordofexplanation.Beforetherewasbourbon,therewasstraightcornwhiskey.Today,cornwhiskeyismadewithaminimumof80%ofcorninthemashbillandmustbematured,ifitismaturedatall,inuncharrednewwhiteoakbarrelsorrefillbourbonbarrels.Theassociationiswithbootlegging,moonshineandgenerallydeprivingtheGovernmentoftheirshare,soitrepresentsadeeplyrootedAmericantradition,alsoexpressedinpopularculturethroughNASCARracingandTVshowssuchasTheDukesofHazzard.
Theproductionofmoonshinestillthrives,orsoonewoulddeducefromthenumberofhome-madestillsandassociatedequipmenttobeseenonvariousinternetauctionsitesbut,foralongtime,theonlymainstreamlegalproducerkeepingthetraditionalivewasHeavenHill–andgoodonthem,Isay.Somesmallercraftproducershavenowjoinedinthefun.
HeavenHillactuallymakesarange,includingDixieDewandJWCorn,whichseemstobetheupmarketone!GeorgiaMooncomesinthekindofjaryourgrannyusedtomakejamorpreservesandisevencheaper(andrawer)thanMellowCorn;thelabelonthisboaststhatit’s‘agedlessthan30days’whichatleastishonest.
Unlessyouwanttosaveacoupleofpounds,MellowCornistheonetotry.Itbenefitsfromtwoyears’ageingandcomesatauseful50%abv.Definitelyonetoserveblindtothewhiskysnobinyourlife.Colour Palegold.Nose Waxy(itshouldbe),withlighterfloralnotesandvanilla.Taste Surprisingly complex, with mouth-coating oiliness; some fruit and
toffee.
Finish Quitelively;thefruit,woodandcaramelnoteshangoninthere.
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WilliamGrant&SonsDistillersLtdn/a–thisisablendNone–butbothGlenfiddichandTheBalveniehavetoursSomesupermarketsandspecialists
www.monkeyshoulder.com
MonkeyShoulder
Thisisn’treallywhatyou’dexpectfromWilliamGrants,makersofGlenfiddichandTheBalvenie.Thedeliberatelyfunkyname(which,asweshallsee,hassomewhiskyheritage–butreally!);thepainfullyhipwebsiteandtheemphasisoncocktailsandtrendystylebarsallsmackofanachinglyself-consciousmarketingstrategy.
Thethingis,it’sprettydecentwhiskyanditappearstohaveworkedso,astheyoungpeopleapparentlysay,‘respect’.Sowhatisit?Technically,it’sblendedmalt–thatistosay,amixtureofseveralsinglemaltsbutnograinwhisky(thatwouldmakeitanordinaryblend).Beinginthefortunatepositionofowningseveraldistilleries,GrantsblendedsomeGlenfiddich,someBalvenieandsomeKininvie(athirddistilleryontheirDufftownsitetheytendtokeepquietabout)tocreateawhiskydesignedforeasydrinkinganduseincocktails.
ItwascreatedbytheirMasterBlenderDavidStewart,astraditionalawhiskymanasyou’llfind,andispreparedinsmallbatchesofcarefullyselectedcasksthatthenundergofurthermaturationbeforebottling.
Rathertongue-in-cheekilyIfeel,Grantsrefertoitintheirpromotionalliteratureas‘triplemaltScotchwhisky’.Theyoughttoknowbetter,butwe’llletthatpass.Ithasbeenenthusiasticallypickedupbyanumberofrathermorecutting-edgebarsinthosemarketswhereit’sbeenreleasedsofarandhascollectedafewawards.
It’salsocompetitivelypriced,withfunpackagingfeaturingthreemonkeysclimbinguptheneckofthebottle.Andthename?Itreferstoaconditionwhichapparentlyaffectedtheworkersonthemaltingfloorafterturningmaltbyhand.Not,asyoumightexpect,somekindofmonkeybusiness.
Findsomeonewhodoesn’tlikewhiskyandtrythisonthem,perhapsinoneofthevariouscocktailssuggestedonthebrand’swebsite.Infact,goape!Colour Brightgold,withcoppertints.Nose Vanilla,lemonzestandfreshfruit.
Taste You’llprobablymixitbutbananas(no,really),somespiceandhintsofcitrus.
Finish Relaxedandfairlyshortfinish,butholdstogetherwell.
71 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
DiageoMortlach,Dufftown,BanffshireNoneSpecialists
Mortlach
16YearsOld
Forreasonswhicharen’tentirelyclear,MortlachnevermadeitintoDiageo’sClassicMaltsselection,probablybecausethemajorityofoutputfromtheclassicSpeysidedistillery–Dufftown’sfirst–isrequiredforblending,whereitisamajorcomponentinJohnnieWalker.
It’sashamebecausethereisalotheretoengagewhiskyfans.Wehavethedistillery’shistoricalsignificance:builtoriginallyin1823,itwasbrieflyabreweryandevenachurch,andWilliamGrantwasManagerherebeforestartingGlenfiddich.Thedistillerywasentirelyremodelledinthe1960sbutretainedtheunorthodoxarrangementofthestills.AtMortlachtherearethreewashstillsandthreespiritstills.Conventionalenoughyoumightthink,butallaredifferentsizesandthedistillationprocess,sometimesreferredtoas‘partialtripledistillation’,isunique.
Inaddition,Mortlachhasretaineditsexternalwormtubcondensersandtheresult,afterlengthymaturation,isabig,meaty,full-flavouredwhiskythatiswelllikedbythosefortunateenoughtogetabottle.Sadly,visitingthedistilleryisdifficultasthereisnovisitorcentreandpublicaccessisrestricted.
Thereareanumberofindependentthird-partybottlingsavailableand,overtheyears,Diageohavereleasedsomespecialeditions,mostrecentlytheManager’sChoiceexpression(just240bottlesat£250fora12-year-oldwhisky–littlewonderthatthisexercisewasgreetedwithsomescepticisminafewwhiskybloggingcircles).
Butit’shardlynecessarytosplashouttothisextent.Thestandard16YearsOldbottlingwillappealtoloversofsubstantial,robustwhiskiescapableofcomplexityandsurprisingsubtlety(butjustimagineifitwereofferednon-chillfilteredat46%abv).ThelateMichaelJacksondescribedMortlachas‘statuesque’and‘elegant’,oncewritingthat,‘IfindnewaromasandflavourseverytimeIraisetheglass.’Iwouldnotpresumetodisagree.ColourDarkandrich,thecaskinfluenceisevident.
Nose Immediate sherrycask impact, rich fruit cakearomas,but floralnotesalsodevelop.
Taste Rich, meaty and solid; dried fruit and some burnt notes (notunpleasant).
Finish Spiceandwoodcomethroughwithhintsofsmoke.
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NikkaYoichiandMiyagikyoDistilleries,JapanYesatbothsitesSpecialists
www.nikka.com
Nikka
AllMalt
Payattention:thisisvery,veryinterestingandpossiblyunique.Thisisanon-aged,blendedmaltwhiskyusingpotstillmaltwhiskyfromNikka’sYoichiandMiyagikyodistilleriesandsomewhiskydistilledinacontinuous(Coffey)stillatMiyagikyo,fromamashcomprising100%maltedbarley.
SoifsuchathingwasevermadeinScotlandthewords‘maltwhisky’couldn’tappearastheScotchWhiskyAssociation(SWA)havedeterminedthatmaltwhiskycannotbemadeinacolumnstill,evenifthestillisentirelymadeofcopperandthemashis100%maltedbarley.Thishasledtosomecontroversywithdistillers,suchasLochLomond(curiously,notmembersoftheSWA)pointingouttheillogicalityofthispositionandsomecommentatorssuggestingthatthisisbothabartoinnovationandthatitsuppressesmovestowardsagreener,moreenergy-efficientindustry.
IamnotaloneinarguingthatthisishorriblyreminiscentoftheattitudeoftheBritishmanufacturingindustryinthe1950sand1960swhenwestillmadecars,TVs,shipsandsoonuntilhideboundmanagement,intransigenttradeunionsandcomplacentpoliticiansallowedimports(oftenfromJapan,asithappens)totakeoverourmarkets.Thisisnottoadoptaxenophobic‘littleBritain’mentality,butsimplytoobservethatallthingschange;thatinnovationisthelifebloodofconsumermarketingandthathangingontosomeself-servingvisionofauthenticity,traditionalpracticeandheritage(thatowesmoretomarketingspinthanhistoricalfacts)maywellprovesomethingofablindalley.
ButthecumulativewisdomoftheScotchwhiskyindustrydisagreeswithmeand,aswasobservedasearlyas1930,thatcomprisesabodyofmenwell‘assuredoftheircommercialacumen’.Well,weshallsee–Ishallbehappytobeprovedwrong.
Anyway,theyarenotsohideboundinJapanandsowecantryandjudgeforourselves.Thisissomethingofabargainanddeliciousinagentle,self-effacingsortofaway.
Colour Richgold.Nose Clean,delicatewithhintsofcereal.Taste Mouth coating, toffee and vanilla; malty with pear fruit and vanilla
development.Finish Lightbutconsistentandholdstogetherwell.
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DiageoOban,ArgyllandButeYesSpecialistsandpossiblysomebettersupermarkets
www.malts.com
Oban
14YearsOld
ThisisoneoftheDiageoClassicMaltsrange,soithardlyneedspromotinghere.Yetitalwaysseemstomethatthiswhiskylacksthefameandglamourofsomeofitsstablemates.Perhapstheownersdon’tpromoteitasheavily,asproductionisrestrictedbyOban’slimitedscaleandstockswouldrapidlyrunoutifeveryoneknewjusthowgoodthiswas.
ThedistilleryliesattheheartofthisrathercharmingWestHighlandtown,whichhasgrownuproundit,somuchsothatit’simpossibletoseehowitcouldnowbeexpanded.Butperhapsthat’sagoodthing,asthecharactercan’tbechangedbygrowthandthingswillgoonprettymuchastheyhaveinlivingmemory.
Therearetwo‘standard’expressions–at14YearsOldandtheso-calledDistiller’sEdition,whichisfinishedinsherrycasks.TherearealsooccasionalspecialreleasessuchastheManager’sChoice.Frankly,theseseemtomerathercynicallydesignedforthecollectors’marketandthereisagrowingbodyofopinionthattheymightjustbeatadover-priced.
Butwedon’tneedtoworrybecauseitleavesmoreofthedelicious14-year-oldstyleforus.Thisislovelystuff!Bagsofcomplexity,saltandsmokebutneverunbalancedorover-bearingindelivery;theinitialimpressionisthenovertakenbydriedfruitsandacitricsweetnessthatfadesgentlywithmoresmokeandmaltynotes.Greatvalueatunder£40.IfyoufindsomeoftheIslaymaltsjusttoomuch,thenyoumayfindthisexactlytoyourtaste.Personally,Iloveit.ColourMidgold.Nose Freshandcleanwithasaltytang;somefruitandwhiffsofsmoke.Taste Medium body, soft and mouth coating; initially sweet but develops
greater complexity with spice, orange, drifting smoke and dries as itevolves.
Finish Is the salty tang imagined by association? Only another glass cananswerthisconundrum!
74 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailability
Price
InverHouseDistillersLtdOldPulteney,Wick,CaithnessYesSpecialistsandpossiblysomebettersupermarkets
www.oldpulteney.com
OldPulteney
17YearsOld
‘WhenIgotofanagetounderstandOldPulteney,Icouldadmireitsqualitywhenwellmatured,recognisinginitsomeofthestrongcharacteristicsofthenortherntemperament.’SoobservedoneofScotland’sfinestwritersandwhisky’smostardentchampions,NeilM.Gunn,inhis1935classicWhisky&Scotland(tryandreaditoneday).
Well,OldPulteneyisstillpossessedofasingularcharacterandnowhereisthisexpressedmoreremarkablyandforcefullythaninthis17YearOldexpression.ThisdistilleryislocatedonthecoastatWickandmakesmuchplayofitscoastallocationandthecuriousflat-toppedstills.Ithaschangedhandsonanumberofoccasionsduringitslonglifebut,today,seemstobereallyvaluedbyitsownersInverHouse.Theyhaveworkedhardtopromotethebrandandhavereleasedanumberofinterestingexpressions,includingavenerable30YearsOld.
But,foritscombinationofexceptionaltasteandrealvalue,I’dhavetopicktheir17YearsOld(thereisa21-year-oldversion,butitseemstomejustatrifleoveraged).Totellthetruth,ifthisteenagerwasonIslay,whiskyfanswouldbefightingtogetit,savouringthepiquant,saltytasteandthelong,lingeringfinish.Sometasterspickuppineappleandcoconutnotes,whileotherspraisethesweet/saltbalance.Personally,Ilovethesaltinesswhichthengiveswaytovanillaandadeliciouslycreamy,mouth-filling(it’sbottledat46%abv),slightlysweetorange,beforefadingawaygently.
Thishaswonanumberofsignificantawardsinthelastfewyears–thejudgescertainlyknewwhattheyweredoing.NeilGunnwouldloveitandhewasafinejudgeofwhisky.ColourVerypalefortheage,butpredominantlymaturedinex-bourbonwood.Nose Sweetandyetsalty;loadsofhoney,vanillaandlemon.Taste Remarkably complex and justifies taking time over it; malted barley
notesrolloverintosomeliquoriceandchocolateflavours,withasteadydrumbeatofsalteverpresent.
Finish Goesonandon,dryingandfadingsteadilyandconsistently.
75 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailability
Price
IrishDistillersMidleton,Cork,IrelandYesSpecialistsandpossiblysomebettersupermarkets
www.irishdistillers.ie
Redbreast
Let’sassumethatyoucouldn’tfindanyGreenSpot(noparticularsurprise).Thisiswhatyouneedtoget–notthatthisisinanywaysecondbestand,at12yearsofage,ithassomeadditionalmaturitytoshowoff.Again,thisisanIrishpotstillwhiskeyandthussomethingofararity,thoughyouwillfindRedbreastalittleeasiertotrackdownthantheelusiveGreenSpot.
IrishDistillersistodaypartofthegiantPernodRicardgroupandtheytaketheirdistillingveryseriously.YoucanvisitthedistillerynearCork,thoughwhatyouseeisactuallyamuseumandvisitorcentre,albeitaverygoodone,intheolddistillerywhichnolongerproduces.Therealworkgoesonjustoutofsightatamodernplantwitharemarkablerangeofstills,producingallkindsofspirit(includingginandvodka).Needlesstosay,youdon’tgettoseethat.
Redbreastwasoriginallyproducedin1939forGilbey’sbytheoriginalJamesondistillery.Butafterthatclosed,stocksofmaturingwhiskeyranoutandthebrandwaswithdrawn.ObservingtherefusalofGreenSpottodieandtheupsurgeinsinglemaltScotch,IrishDistillersbroughtitbackasa12-year-oldfromMidleton,togeneralacclaim.Amixofbothsherryandbourboncasksgointotheblendandthefull-onstyleisaclassicofitstype.
Thisisamajorawardwinnerandalwaysscoreshighlyinindependenttastings.Greatvalueatunder£30.ColourAsubtlebronzedgold.Nose Tonsofbodyonthenose,promisingexcitementwithin!Taste Amassivewhiskey,butwithplentygoingonand layersof flavour to
explore.Sweet,withlotsofripefruitandspicenotes.Honeyedbrioche.Veryfullandoilyfora40%abv.
Finish Stickwithitforwavesofvanilla,honey,oakandspice.
76 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailability
Price
ChivasBrothersLtdScapa,OrkneyNoSpecialistsandpossibledutyfree
www.chivasbrothers.comseealsowww.scapamalt.com
Scapa
14/16YearsOld
DramaticallylocatedonOrkney’sfamousScapaFlow,thelittleScapadistilleryhassufferedfromturbulenthistory,inconsistentmarketingandthedominantshadowofitsmorefamousneighbourHighlandPark.It’sstillworthpayingattentiontothislittlegem,however.Youhavetobecarefulwhatyoubuy,though,andtoappreciatethatyouhavetounderstandsomeofthehistory.
By2004Scapapresentedadolefulappearance;muchoftheroofwasmissing,andtheelectricalsystemoutofactionanditwasgenerallyassumedthatitwasdoomed.However,togeneralsurprise,over£2mwasthenspentonacompleterefurbishment–thoughitremainsfirmlyclosedtothepublic.ThefollowingyearPernodRicard’sChivasBrothersacquiredthedistilleryand,again,therewererumoursofclosureorpossiblydisposal.
Hope,though,sprangupamongloversofthisuglyduckling–perhapsaswanwouldemergeafterall.Forsomeyears,a14-year-oldexpressionhadbeenmarketedinadesultoryfashion,butitwasappreciatedbyconnoisseurswantingtoexplorealighter,unpeatedislandstylethatwasquiteunique.However,Chivasrelaunchedthebrandanda16-year-oldexpressionwasreleased–sadly,notinmyviewagreattriumph.
Thepriceshotupandforthatyougetarathermoreelegantbottleandboxbutthewhiskyissomethingofananticlimax.Becausetherewasinsufficientstocktogoroundalltheirworldmarkets,thedecisionwastakentobottleat40%abv.Mistake.It’sratherthin(chillfilteredtoboot)andlacksrealdistinction,thoughit’sperfectlypleasant,withsomehoneyflavoursandasaltybite.What’smore,Ithinkyoucanignoreallthemarketing-speakonthewebsiteabouttheLomondwashstill:inmyviewitisn’t.It’sbeenheavilymodifiedand,withitsinternalplatesremoved,it’ssimplyapotstillwitharatherunusualheadandneck.Sothere!
SonotastingnotesherebecauseIdon’tknowwhichwhiskyyou’regoingtofind.Whatyoureallyneedtodoisfindamerchantbottlingandcrossyourfingersit’sagoodone–theGordon&MacPhailandProvenanceversionshave
attractedsomepraise.
Isuppose,feelingcharitable,youcouldbuytheofficialversionifonlytoencouragethem.Theyhavetried,afterall,todotherightthingandit’sabigimprovementonthelastlot’sfeebleefforts.
77 ProducerDistillery
VisitorCentreAvailability
Price
TheSpencerfieldSpiritsCompanyn/a– this isablendofvariousmaltsproducedbyWhyte&Mackayn/aSpecialistsandpossiblysomebettersupermarkets
www.spencerfieldspirit.com
SheepDip
Godlovesatrier,orsotheysay.Well,SpencerfieldSpiritsarecertainlytrying.
ThecompanywasformedwhenAlexNicol,thenatWhyte&Mackaybutwithalongindustrycareer,felloutwithhisbossesandleft.Nothingunusualtherebut,inplaceoftheusualseverancepackage,hetookwithhimtherightstotheunlovedSheepDipbrand,whichwasthenlanguishinginthecorporatecellars,andsignedasupplyagreementforwhisky.
ThenheconvincedW&M’sMasterBlender,theebullientRichardPaterson,toworkwithhimandtogethertheycreatedanewblendedmaltforSheepDip.Backintheday,SheepDiphadbeenacultsuccess,butitreliedonindependentownershiptogivethebrandanditscustomersthenecessarytimeandattention.Incorporatehandsitjustwasn’tapriorityanditslowlyfadedaway.
AlexandhiswifeJanehavechangedallthat.Havinggotthewhiskyrighttheyinvestedinsomedramaticnewpackagingandanoldhorsebox,whichtheydriveroundvariouscountryfairssamplingtheproductandsellingbottles.Slowlybutsurely,it’sgatheringanewfollowingandoncepeopletryabottletheywantmore.AndsoSheepDipisslowlyandpainfully,bottlebybottle,gettingbackonitsfeet.
Iwouldn’ttellyouallthisifitwasn’talsoverygoodwhisky.It’sagreatstoryandagreatwhiskyfromsomegreatpeople(Alex:willthatdo?).Oh,andtheyhaveagreatwebsite,aswell,whichtellsyouallthisinsomuchmorelovingdetail.Colour Rich,warminggold.Nose Quitefloralwithhoney,maltandfreshfruits.Taste Dominated by solid Highland and Speyside malts, this has plenty of
weightwithoutlackingsubtletyorbalance.Finish LotstolookforastheIslaycomponentfinallykicksin,addingsmoke;
somespicelingersalso.
78 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
IanMacleodDistillersLtdn/an/aSpecialists
www.smokehead.co.uk
Smokehead
ExtraBlack
Aargh!Thisisoneofthose‘Ronseal’whiskies:itdoesexactlywhatitsaysonthechunkytin.Idon’treallylikeitbut,ifyourtasterunstobig,peaty,smokymonstersthenyouneedtotryit.Frankly,Ifinditallabittoomuch,butIcan’tdenyit’saroller-coasterofadram.Actually,it’smoreofaweaponofmassdestruction–tomytastebudsatleast.Ineededagoodnight’ssleepbeforethepalatewasclearandtheworkoftastingcouldcontinue.
Forthatreason,bewarned–thistakesnoprisoners.It’san18-year-oldIslaysinglemalt(unspecified,butoneoftheextremeones)bottledbytheexcellentIanMacleodDistillerstotakeadvantageofthecurrentvogueforpeatywhisky.Ican’timaginewhatelsethey’dusethisfor:thetiniestdropinablendingvatandthetastewoulddominatethefinishedproduct.
Thereisalittlebrother,theregularSmokehead.Butifyoulikethiskindofthing,whybotherwiththemonkey,whenyoucanhavetheorgangrinder?IsawExtraBlackcomparedtotheamplifierthatgoesallthewayupto11inSpinalTap.Thisisjustasrockandrollasthat.Andaspointless,really,unless11iswhereyouwanttogo.
I’llleaveituptoyou.Youhavebeenwarned.Andit’snotparticularlycheapeither.Butthat’srockandrollforyou.Colour Curiously pale. I don’t think this has ever seen the inside of a sherry
cask.Nose Peat,smoke,moresmoke,morepeat.Salt.Thenpeat.Taste Explosionsof spice,pepper and,yes,peat smoke. Justhugewavesof
peat.Andsalt.Finish Excuseme,Ihavetoleavenowandgetaglassofwater.
79 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
InverHouseDistillersLtdSpeyburn,Rothes,BanffshireNoSpecialists
www.speyburn.com
Speyburn
Solera25YearsOld
Alittle-knownbuttraditionalandveryattractiveSpeysidedistillery,Speyburndeserveswiderfame.The10-year-oldstyleenjoyssomesuccessintheUSA,asmuchbecauseofaggressivepricingasanythingelse,butyouhardlyseeitintheUK,whichisagreatshame.Andnovisitorcentreeither,alsoashame.
AnotherclassicCharlesDoigdesign,thedistillerywasbuiltin1897attheendofthegreatVictorianwhiskyboom,andforyearswaspartoftheDCL.Theyfirstmothballeditinresponsetotheover-productionofthe1980s(theso-called‘whiskyloch’)butthankfullysoldittoAirdrie-basedInverHouseDistillersin1991.
Mostofthespiritgoesforblendingbutthedistilleryofferthespectacular25-year-oldSoleraexpressionwhichis,asthesayinggoes,‘todiefor’.Itisquiteremarkablygood.Infact,Idon’treallythinktheyknowhowgooditis,becauseyoucanfindabottleinUKspecialistsataround£70,whichisjustsilly.
Butdon’ttellthem–justsnapupabottleorthreeandenjoyarich,luscious,classicSpeysideratatasty46%abvwhich,withabetter-knownnameandsomesexydesignerpackaging,wouldhavewhiskyfansqueuingroundtheblocktogivethreefiguresforabottleofit.Infact,ifyoupouredthisintoabottleof—We’dbetternotexplorethatthoughtanyfurther!
Sufficeittosaythisisaverywell-keptsecret.Youcan’tvisitthedistillery(shame)andbottlesarehardtofindbutIpromiseyou’llbeimpressed.Getsomebeforeanyonetellstheowners.Colour Curiouslypalefortheage,butanattractivelightgold.Nose Softoakandvanilla.Honey,fruitcakeandsomelightsmoke.Taste Mouthcoating,richandwarm;butteredhoneysweetness,burntorange
anddelicateoaknotes.Finish Smooth,well-balancedandconsistent.Maybeahintofdarkorange,just
attheend.
80 ProducerDistillery
VisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
J&AMitchell&Co.LtdSpringbank,Campbeltown,ArgyllandButeYesSpecialists
www.springbankwhisky.com
Springbank
10YearsOld
OnceuponatimethetownofCampbeltownwasoneofthemostimportantandrespecteddistillingcentresinScotland.But,overtheyearsandforavarietyofreasons,itdeclineduntilonlyonereallyactivedistillerywasleft–Springbank.
Itstruggledonduringthe1970sand1980sassomethingofananachronism,ahistoricalcuriosity,quirky,stubbornlyindependentandalmostwilfullyresistanttochange.In1987thelateMichaelJacksonrecordedthatits‘verytraditionalplanthasnotproducedforsomeyears’.
However,therewerealwaysafewdie-hardenthusiastsandkeepersofthetrueflameandtheownersresolutelysoldieredon,obliviousto‘progress’.Inthosedaysyoucouldbuyyourowncaskbut,sadly,theywon’tletyoudothatanymore.Asthesinglemaltboomgatheredpaceintheearly1990s,Springbankbegantoacquireacult,almostmythic,statusgreatlyenhancedbyitsremotelocation(evenbyScottishstandardsCampbeltownisawkwardtoreach)andthedistillery’shermit-likereluctancetoembracepublicity.
Theplantisstilltraditional–infact,walkingroundthedistilleryislikesteppingintoaVictoriandistillingtextbook–andSpringbankadherestoanunusual2?timesdistillationprocess(thereisaverygoodexplanationontheirwebsite,soI’mnotevengoingtotry).Thisandthefloormalting,lackofchillfiltrationorcolouringandlabour-intensiveproductionmeanthatSpringbankisarguablythemosttraditionalofScotchwhisky.
Inrecentyearsithasflourishedandtheownershaveevenbeensoboldastoopenanewdistillery,Kilkerran.AvarietyofstylesareproducedatSpringbankandtheyvarydramatically(seeentryforLongrow)butthisisthestandardandmostwidelyavailable.A‘musthave’whiskyifthereeverwasone.Colour Thishasbeenknowntovaryaccordingtothecaskstheyusefrompale
goldtoadarkershade.Don’tworry–it’sjustpartoftheidiosyncraticfun.
Nose Expectleather,somepeatsmokehints,spicesandasaltynote.
Taste More saltiness, nutmeg and cinnamon, orange peel and, bizarrely,vinegar.Butnice.
Finish Slightly perfumed with a sweet/salt tussle going on. Hints of smokelingerattheend.
81 ProducerDistillery
VisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
TheEnglishWhiskyCo.StGeorge’sDistillery,Roudham,NorfolkYesSpecialists
www.englishwhisky.co.uk
StGeorge’s
I’mtakingasmallgamblehereandassumingthatbythetimethisgetsintobookshopstheinitialhypeandexcitementsurroundingEnglishwhiskywillhavewornoffandproductswillbeavailableonceagain.For,atthetimeofwriting,StGeorge’shavebeensoswampedbyordersthattheyhavesoldoutoftheirfirstwhiskyandhavesuspendedtheironlineshop.
ThedistillerywasfoundedbyJamesandAndrewNelstrop,Norfolkfarmers,andbegandistillinginNovember2006withthelegendarylainHenderson(fromIslay)incharge.Unlikesomeotherpeople’smorespeculativeprojects,theNelstropswereabletofinancethedevelopmentfromtheirownresourcesand,asaresult,progressonthedistillerywasrapid.
Theyhavetakentheadmirablestepofnotpre-sellingwhiskyuntiltheywereactuallyinproduction,asopposedtosomeotherwould-bedistillerypromoters.Indeed,AndrewNelstroptakesastronglineonthis,commentingthat:‘floggingcasksbeforeyou’vebuiltthedistilleryisacrime,’ashetoldthe2009WorldWhiskiesConference.I,forone,thinkhe’sright.Ifyou’retemptedto‘invest’insuchaschemegoandliedownforawhileuntilthemoodpasses!
Englishwhiskyisnotactuallynew.TherewerewhiskydistilleriesinEnglandinthe1800sbuttheyallclosedbytheturnofthecentury.Withexcellentqualitybarleyonhand,first-rateequipmentandaverypositiveattitudethereisnoreasonwhyStGeorge’scan’tflourishand,indeed,becomethefirstofmanyEnglishwhiskydistilleries.
ThereisanexcellentvisitorcentreatRoudham(somepeopleactuallyplantogetmarriedthere)andyoucantourthedistilleryandtastearangeofproducts,fromnewmakespiritto,bythetimeyoureadthis,four-year-oldwhisky.It’sdefinitelyaventuretosupport–innovative,hand-craftedandhighlyindividual,thisisthekindofthingthatbringsmuch-neededvariety,excitementandinteresttothewhiskyscene.
Initialimpressionsofthenewmakeandthefirstreleaseofathree-year-oldwhiskyinDecember2009wereverypositivesoitseemssafetosuggestyoucan
buywithconfidence.
82 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailability
Price
DiageoTalisker,SkyeYesSpecialistsandpossiblysomebettersupermarkets
www.malts.com
Talisker
10YearsOld
AnotheroftheClassicMaltsrangefromDiageo,Taliskerhaslongbeenpraisedforitsbrazen,up-front,uncompromisingflavours.Likeanumberoftherecommendationshere,it’saveryforcefulproductindeed.
Personally,they’renotmyfavouritesbutit’shardtodenythatlotsofpeoplelikethemand,oncetheytrythisstyle,absolutelyfallinlovewithit–allthemoreso,inthiscase,ifyouvisitthedistillery(andyoushouldtryto).
OutofthevariousdifferentreleasesI’drecommendthe‘standard’10YearsOldasanintroductiontoTalisker,andthenyoucanmoveontothe18YearsOld(seenextentry).
Taliskerhaslonghaditsfans:in1880RobertLouisStevensonlisteditasoneofthethree‘kingo’drinks’andinhisseminalandhighlyinfluentialbookWhisky(1930)AeneasMacDonaldhadTaliskerwrestlingwithClynelishforinclusioninhislistofthetwelvemostdistinguishedofHighlandwhiskies.
Todaythedistilleryrunsalongquitetraditionallines.Itstilluseswoodenwormtubsand,uniquely,thelynearmsonthewashstillsaredesignedtotrapvapoursfromthefirstdistillationbeforetheyreachtheoutsidewormtubs,whileasmallsecondarycopperpipecarriesthetrappedvapoursbacktothewashstillsforaseconddistillation.Alsotraditionally,andcommendably,Taliskerisbottledathigherstrength(here45.8%abv)justtoaddtothefun.
Ifthedistillationsoundscomplicated,it’sbecauseitis,butallthishasahuge,ifnotfullyunderstood,influenceonflavour:theresulthastobeexperiencedtobecompletelyappreciated.Oncetastedneverforgotten.Colour Brightgold.Nose Assertivemarinecharacterwithwavesofsmoke.Taste Surprises with some sweetness, then fruits, smoke and seaweed take
over.Somecommentators recommend trying itwithseafood–oystersorgoodsmokedsalmonseemtowork.
Finish Lots to give here with the sweetness coming back and a distinctivesharppepperbite.
83 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailability
Price
DiageoTalisker,SkyeYesSpecialistsandpossiblysomebettersupermarkets
www.malts.com
Talisker
18YearsOld
AsIhavesaid,Ipersonallyfindthisstyleofwhiskyratheroverwhelming.Greatforafterdinner,perhaps,ordrunkoutofdoors,butjusttoomuchlikehardworktodrinkonitsownorwhena‘quietdram’iscalledfor.Ihaveapersonaltheorythatthere’salargeelementoffashionatworkhere–butI’vebeatenthatdrumelsewhereand,tostretchthatmetaphor,there’snodoubtI’moutofstepandmarchingtoadifferenttune.
So,anotherTalisker,becauseIdon’tforamomentdenyitsgreatness.Movingupfromthe‘standard’10YearsOldweencounterthisbeastie.It’sbeenwidelypraisedbyenthusiastsandwaschosenas‘BestWhiskyintheWorld2007’intheWorldWhiskiesAwards.Idon’tholdwithsuchhyperbole(itwouldn’tbemypersonalbest,inanyevent)butitdoesindicatetheesteeminwhichthisdramisheld.
Mindyou,onawell-knownmerchant’ssiteIsawaconsumercontributeatastingnotewhichread‘tasteslikecombingyourhair’.Thismaywellbeafirst.Iamstillstrugglingtoworkoutwhatwasmeant.
DiageohasworkedhardwithTalisker,exploitingitsdistinctivetasteanditsuniquepositionasSkye’sonlydistillery(therearetentativeplansforafarmhousecompetitorbut,whilethat’sawonderfulidea,ifyouaskme,itwillneverhappen).Aswellasthe10-and18-year-oldstylessuggestedhere,thereareanumberofmoreexpensivespecialeditions,limitedreleasesandoccasionaldistilleryexclusivebottlings,whichmakethejourneyovertheseatoSkyeallthemorepleasurable.
And,ifyoureselloneBaytothecollectors,itcanbeprofitable.NotthatIwouldrecommendthatforamoment,youunderstand,notevenforaprince’sransom.ColourDeeperthanitsyoungerbrother.Nose Everythingyouwantedbutmore!Moresmoke!Morepeat!Morefruits!
Justmore!Taste Toffee, peat and wood, of course, but well balanced with the citrus
fruitinessandlingeringsweetnotes.Baconandorangemarmalade.Finish WavesofflavourgivewaytothetrademarkTaliskerpepperkick.
84 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentre
Availability
Price
WilliamGrant&SonsDistillersLtdBalvenie,Dufftown,BanffshireYes–butbookinginadvanceisnecessarySpecialistsandpossiblysomebettersupermarkets
www.thebalvenie.com
TheBalvenie
PortWood21YearsOld
TheBalvenieisthelittlebrothertoGlenfiddichand,forsomeyears,hasbeenratherunfairlyovershadowedbyitsstablemate(almostliterally,asithappens,asthedistilleryliesjustbelowtheGlenfiddichsite).
Morerecently,however,GrantshaveunderstoodthequalityofferedbyTheBalvenieandpromoteditmoreactivelywithagrowingrangeofreleases.Thedistilleryischaracterisedbymaintainingafloormalting,oneofthelastinScotland,andmaybeacquittedofthechargeofkeepingthisonsolelyforitstouristvaluebythefactthat,untilevenmorerecently,itwasclosedtothepublic.
However,youcannowtakeanexcellenttourwhich,thoughsuperficiallyexpensive,infactoffersgreatinsightintoproductionatTheBalvenieandculminateswithanextensivetastingofolderwhiskies,makingitverygoodvalue.Numbersarelimitedsoitisessentialtobookinadvance.Concentratingonthewhisky,theusualclichédaudio-visualpresentationisabsent(whichonlyenhancesthepleasure).
Therearearangeofexpressionsandstylesbutmyfavouriteisthe21-year-oldPortWoodfinish.Someofthesefinishescanbeoverdoneandthewhiskyspoiledbyanunsubtleuseofthesecondwood,butthiswascreatedbythehandofamaster.Delicateportwineflavoursdanceroundtheinherentspiritqualityinamesmerisingandquitebeguilingfashion.
DavidStewart,Grants’MasterBlender,hasspentlongerthanheprobablycarestoadmitintheindustryandiswidelyrespectedbyhispeers.Forme,thisisastellarachievement,fullyjustifyinghishighreputation.ColourWarmhighlightsinrichgold.Nose Raisins andnuts; continues todevelopawell-rounded sweetnessover
time.Taste Silky and full bodied, the port casks seduce but never swamp the
underlyingspiritcharacter.Finish Lingers very nicely and continues to offer a well-mannered, nutty
memory.
85 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentre
Availability
Price
WilliamGrant&SonsDistillersLtdBalvenie,Dufftown,BanffshireYes–butbookinginadvanceisnecessarySpecialistsandpossiblysomebettersupermarkets
www.thebalvenie.com
TheBalvenie
30YearsOld
Ifyoulikeolderwhisky,prefertheSpeysidestyleanddon’trequirelavishpackaging,thenthismightwellbeagoodchoice.
Thespiritherewouldhavebeendistilledinthelate1970sjustastheinfamous‘whiskyloch’wasfillingup.Forthoseofahistoricalturnofmind,thiswasaperiodofdisastrousover-productionatatimeoffallingsales,whichresultedindraconiandistilleryclosuresandtheensuinglossofsomefamousnames,suchasPortEllenandStMagdaleneinLinlithgow.ThisepisodeisregrettedtothisdayandhasleftenduringscarsontheScotchwhiskyindustry.
However,whilehardlyimmunefrombroadereconomicconditions,prudentlymanaged,privatelyownedcompaniesarenotasdrivenbytheshort-termdiktatsofthestockmarketastheirpubliclyquotedbrethren,nordotheyliveinconstantfearofbeingswallowedupbyalargerrival.Asaresult,theycanquietlycarryonlayingdownstock(solongastheycanpayforit)intheknowledgethatwhiskyhasalonghistoryofboomandbustandthat,eventually,thecarefullyhusbandedcaskswillacquirethestatusofliquidgold.
Thereiscurrentlyatrendforsomecompaniestoreleasebeautifullypackagedbutexpensivenon-agedwhiskies,arguingthatthebenefitsofageingareover-statedandthatqualityofblendingisall–youngerwhiskiesaddvibrancy,andallthat.Whilethereissometruthinthis,it’salsoafactthattheindustrycutproductionsodrasticallyintheearlytomid1980sthatmanyfirmssimplydon’thaveanyoldwhiskytosell–callmecynicalifyouwill,butthismaypartlyexplaintheiralmostmiraculousconversiontothe‘non-aged’camp!
Fortunately,thecautiousGrantfamilykeptsteadilyonandtodaywecanenjoythissplendidlymatureBalvenieatacracking47.3%abv.Expecttopaymorethan£300forabottlebutit’sworthit.Drinkto‘independence’asyousipadram.Colour Rich,darkgold.Nose Initiallypowdery,butdevelopsarichcomplexitywithhoneynotes.
Taste Driedfruits,orangepeel,vanillaandChristmascakespices.Finish Rollsontofinishwithagentleburstofhoney.
86 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailability
Price
Whyte&MackayLtdDalmore,Alness,Ross-shireYesWidespreadinternationalavailability
www.thedalmore.com
TheDalmore
12YearsOld
IfindmyselfquiteconflictedaboutTheDalmoreanditssomewhatvulgarandostentatiousclaimtobethemostexpensivemaltwhiskyintheworld(abottleoftheir62YearsOldsoldoncefor£32,000).Theyhavequiteafewhigh-pricedandritzyexpressions,thoughhigh-pricedwhiskyain’tnecessarilygreatwhisky.However,thereareenoughbuyersouttherewhoconfusepricewithqualitytoensurethatthewhiskyindustrywillkeepproducingthese‘luxury’offerings.Afterall,theonlyreasonthatwenowhavewhiskiesat£10,000abottleisthattherearepeoplereadyandwillingtopay£10,000forabottle.But,let’sbeclear:thesearetrophies,notwhiskiesasmostofusunderstandtheterm.
Dalmorehassomehowmanagedtomuscleinonthisverytop-endmarket,previouslytheexclusivepreserveofbrandslikeTheMacallan,evenclaimingthatsomeoftheirproductshave‘aninvestmentvalue’.ThisseemstometobeplayingwithfireandwhenIseetheDalmorewebsiteusinglanguagesuchas‘alchemisticartistry’and‘dynamicdistillation’todescribetheirproductionprocessmyscepticismgrows.Thistypeofmarketingriskslosingtouchwithreality,letaloneaninformedaudiencewhoactuallycareaboutwhisky.
However,thoughthemarketingboysandgirlsatDalmoremayhavebeendrinkingtheirownbathwateryoudon’thaveto:therearestillsomedecentwhiskiesunderneathalltheirbreathlessincantationsandmumbo-jumbo.Putallthehypetoonesideandlooknofurtherthantheentry-levelofferingat12yearsold.A50/50blendofsherryandbourboncasks,thisisatextbookexampleofbalance,weightandcomplexitythatoffersgreatvalueformoney.
Youcouldalwayspouritintoacrystaldecanterforwhenthebosscomesround.ColourAlovelywarmgold.Nose Sweet,appetisingandcallingtoyou.Taste Well-balanced sherry and vanilla; dark oranges, spices and dark fruit
cake.Finish Gentlyfadeswithahintofnutsandcaramel.
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ChivasBrothersLtdGlenlivet,Ballindalloch,BanffshireYesDifferentexpressionswidelyavailable
www.glenlivet.com
TheGlenlivet
21YearsOldArchive
Glenlivetmakemuchplayintheirmarketingoftheclaim‘thesinglemaltthatstarteditall’.Likemostmarketingclaims,there’ssometruthinthere,butperhapssomewhatembellished.Thisstatementreferstotheassertionthatthedistillery’sfounderGeorgeSmithwasthefirstlicenseddistillerunderanimportant1823ActofParliament.Well,sowhatexactly?Sincethenthedistilleryhasbeenexpandedbeyondrecognitionandproductionmethodshaveevolvedmorethanalittle.
Smith’sGlenlivetwasalwaysaby-wordforquality,though,andnotfornothingisthisparticularwhiskyallowedtostyleitself‘The’Glenlivet.SoIthinkhe’dprobablystillbeproudofthewhiskyproducedunderhisname,thoughwhathe’dmakeofitsFrenchownershipitmightbekindernottospeculate.
TheGlenlivetstyleischaracterisedbywhatisgenerallyidentifiedasa‘pineapple’noteandthathasbeenhighlyprizedbyblendersanddrinkersformorethanahundredyears.Withtheolderstyles,thatfruitnotecanstillbedetectedbutthewhiskyhasgreaterrichnessandsubtlety.Theimpactofextraageingandwoodqualitycanbeseenindeeperflavoursofchocolate,fruitcake,driedfruitsandthensomeengagingandcomplexspicenotes,which,forme,areahallmarkofolderGlenlivetsandarealstampofqualityanddrinkingsatisfaction.
IcouldeasilyhaveincludedmorethanoneGlenlivetinthislist,buttheyarewidelyavailable(especiallyintheUSA)andsoIwilldonomorethanremindyouthatthisisaverygreatwhisky,nottobedisregardedonaccountofitsrelativeubiquity,thusleavingspaceforequallyfinebutmoreobscuredrams.Colour Palecopper.Nose Panacotta,ripeplums,darkorangeandChristmascake.Taste Prunes, subtle coconut; rich and full-bodied with fruity tones. Add
waterslowly.Finish Long,rollingflavoursholdingtogetherwellforanextendedfinish.
88 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailability
Price
TheEdringtonGroupGlenrothes,Rothes,SpeysideNoSpecialistsandpossiblysomebettersupermarkets
www.theglenrothes.com
TheGlenrothes
SelectReserve
Don’tmakethemistakeofconfusingthissplendidSpeysidesinglemaltwiththeratherdrabandutilitariannewtownofthesamenameinFife:thisisanythingbut!Infact,it’stuckedawayoffthemainstreetofRothesinSpeysideontheedgeoftheRothesburnbut,sincetheydon’thaveanypublicvisitorfacilities,thelocationisfairlyacademic.ThedistilleryisownedbyTheEdringtonGroupbutthebrandbelongstoBerryBros&Rudd,ofStJames’inLondon.
Foryears,thiswasastraightforwardproductionunitmakingawell-respectedwhiskythatwashighlydemandedforblending:CuttySarkandTheFamousGrouse,amongothers,relyonTheGlenrothes.Infact,despiteexpandingthedistillerytwice,demandwassogreatthattherewaslittleornostockleftforsaleasasinglemalt.However,in1987thefirsttentativestepsweretakenandsevenyearslaterBerryBros&Ruddhitontheideaofreleasingvintages(perhapsnotanundulyradicalstepforawinemerchant).
Sincethen,TheGlenrotheshasgoneontoconsiderablesuccessandsomeofthevintagebottlesfetchfancyprices.But,asastartingpoint,youcandoalotworsethantheSelectReserve,anon-vintagebottlingofTheGlenrotheswhichtypifiesthedistilleryhousecharacter–ripefruits,citrus,vanillaandhintsofspice–andisafinerepresentativeoftheclassicSpeysidestyle.It’snon-agedbutthepointhereisthedeliveryofconsistentcharacter.
TheGlenrothesistheantithesisoftheclassicIslaystyle,soifyouwantsmoky,peatywhiskythisisn’tforyou.However,foragentle,subtleandintriguingdramthatkeepsongiving,looknofurther.Greatwhiskyatagreatprice.Colour Palegold.Nose Lashings of vanilla and oak; plums and ripe mango; hints of spice.
Sweet.Taste Well-roundedon thepalate,withgreatbalanceandstyle.Dried fruits,
citrusnotesandslightlyfloral.Finish Acreamyfinishwithsubtlespicenotestowardtheend.
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HighlandDistillersLtdMacallan,Craigellacchie,SpeysideYes–bookinginadvanceisnecessaryforthebettertoursSpecialistsandpossiblysomebettersupermarkets
www.themacallan.com
TheMacallan
SherryOak10YearsOld
TheMacallanwasanearlypioneerinsinglemalt,earningitselfthesobriquet‘theRolls-Royceofsinglemalts’,onwhichdescriptionithasbeendiningouteversince.Andnotwithoutgoodreasonfor,ifyoulikethisstyle,itisvery,verygood.
Butholdon,youcry–whatstyleisthat?Yourconfusionisunderstandable.Foryears,TheMacallanmadegreatplayoftheirexclusiveuseofsherrybarrelsforageingtheirwhisky,theninNovember2004theylaunchedtheirFineOakrange,whichdidn’t.Initially,puristswereoutragedbutTheMacallanhashadthelastlaughastheirsaleshavebeenhighlyimpressiveeversince–infact,thisisconsistentlyoneofthefastest-growingsinglemaltsthereis,sopresumablythey’redoingsomethingright.Recently,becausetheyweredoingsowell,theyreopenedamothballedstillhousewithsomeratherattractivedisplaysforyoutostudy.
This,then,isthe‘standard’expression(atleastintheUK;internationallythe12YearsOldisthenorm)andabenchmarkforthesherry-agedstyle.TheMacallangotogreatpainstoselectandcontrolthewoodfortheirbarrelsanditshows:thisisrich,darkandfull-bodiedbutneveroppressive.
It’sworthmakingthetriptothedistillerytoseetheimpressiveexhibitiononwood,whichdetailstheforestry,cooperageandwarehousingpracticethatgoesintoTheMacallan.Todaythereareabewilderingnumberofexpressionsandanynumberoflimitedreleases(some,Isuspect,justforthecollector)butthisistheflagshipandagreatplacetostartexploringthisgrandoldmaltthathasdonesomuchtobuildunderstandingandappreciationoffinewhisky.ColourDeep,naturalcolourfromsherrycaskageing.Nose Immediatesweetness,maltandtoffee.Taste Full bodied but graceful and well-balanced; this is a classic sherry
finish.Finish Thesweetnesscomesthroughwithcitrusnotes,hintsofsmokeandoak.
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HighlandDistillersLtdMacallan,Craigellacchie,SpeysideYes–bookinginadvanceisnecessaryforthebettertoursSpecialistsandpossiblysomebettersupermarkets
www.themacallan.com
TheMacallan
SherryOak18YearsOld
Asaquickglancearoundtheshelvesofanydecentspecialistretailerwillconfirm,therearequiteafewdifferentMacallansanditcangetconfusing.ThefirstthingtogetcleariswhetheryoupreferthetraditionalsherrystyleorthenewerFineOak–bothareverygoodbutverydifferent.Onceyougetthissortedoutyoucanbecomethesortofwhiskyborewhosendspeopletosleepatparties.
ThisisintheoriginalMacallanstyle–withlashingsofsherryonthenoseandpalateduetothehugeimpactofthesherrycasks.YoucanreadallaboutthisontheMacallanwebsiteorevenmakeapilgrimagetothedistillerywheretheyhaveanexhibitiononthesubject.AfewyearsagoitwouldhavebeenfairtosaythatthequalityoftheseolderMacallanswasvariable(Irememberwithashuddersamplingaparticularlyrubbery25yearold)–underthepreviousownerstherewasn’tquitethecareandattentionlavishedonwoodselectionasthereistoday.
Now,virtuallyallMacallanexpressionsareeagerlyconsumedbytheirworldwidelegionoffans.ThemarketingincreasinglytriestopositionMacallanasaluxuryicon’,whateverthatmaybe,butformethisisjustaveryfinewhiskyfordrinkingwithlike-mindedfriendsafterabigdinner.Ifthey’renotfriendstostartwith,theyshouldbeafteryou’veservedthis.
However,readon–therearemoreMacallanstotryandtobuy,thoughwe’regoingtosteerclearofthesuper-premium‘editions’andthemorelavishlypackagedone-offspecials.They’relargelyforcollectorsandPremierLeaguefootballers.We’renearlyattheendbutdon’tforget–thisisabookforwhiskylovers.ColourDramaticdarkmahogany–richanddeep.Nose Approachwithcare–thisisveryfull-onwithdramaticnotesofwood
andleather.Taste Powerfulsherryimpact,winenotes,somesmoke,chewyvanillafudge
withspicylayersofferingupOldeEnglishmarmaladeanddriedfruits.
Finish Veryroundandconsistent.Somesmokehintsandclassiccakenotes.
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HighlandDistillersLtdMacallan,Craigellacchie,SpeysideYes–bookinginadvanceisnecessaryforthebettertoursSpecialists
www.themacallan.com
TheMacallan
FineOak30YearsOld
Thisisasfaraswe’regoingwithTheMacallananditistheonerepresentativefromtheFineOakrangethatI’vepicked.Itmightbemoreeconomicallyprudenttostartwithits10YearsOldlittlebrother(it’sabout1/10ofthepriceforonething),orthestunning15YearsOld,butyouwon’tregretsplashingoutonabottleofthisbeauty.
Foronething,itwearsitsageverylightlyandisalmosteffervescentonthepalate,allthemoresowithasplashofwater.Thatmayseemstrange(itis,infact,strangesoItriedasecondsampleonanotherdaywiththesameresult)butIratherlikeit.WhatitshowsveryclearlyisthebasicintegrityandunderlyingqualityofTheMacallanspiritwithouttheusualsherryeffect.
There’salotofbodyherewithcomplextoffeeandvanillaandlayersofwoodandspice.Itdoesdemandsomeconcentrationandeffortonyourpart,buttheeffortwillberewardedwithamemorabletourthroughaveritableforestofoak.Butitneverdominatesoroverwhelmsandthatisthiswhisky’sgreatcharm.Thedistillersdescribedthisashaving‘arich,exotic,headyandaromaticnose–reminiscentofanorangegrove’but,whilethereissomesweetnessthere,Iassociatethecitricnotemorewiththe21YearsOldortheconsiderablymoreexpensive1824.
Whatever.Justbecarefulwhenyougetthisoutandwhoyouofferitto.It’salltooeasytodrinkandforgetthepricetag(it’llsetyoubackjustover£300intheUK).
Ican’trecommendtoomanywhiskiesatthislevelbutthisisveryhardtoresist.ColourMarkedlypalerthanitscounterparts;anattractiveyellowgold.Nose Toffee,vanilla,oakandsomesmokehints.Taste Exceptionally complex, rich and mouth coating; black cherry. Lively
withwater.Finish Quitecreamy,softandlingering.Layeredandsophisticated.
92 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailability
Price
TheWineSocietyn/a–thisisablendn/aTheWineSociety–Members’Listandwebsite
www.thewinesociety.com
TheWineSociety
SpecialHighlandBlend
Payattention–thisisaserious,under-ratedandlittle-knownbargain.FirstyouhavetojoinTheWineSociety.Onceuponatimethiswasasortofupper-classriteofpassage,likeputtingyourchildrendownforEton,gettingelectedtotheMCCororderingyour12-borefromPurdeys.Nolonger–they’vedemocratisedtheSocietyandyoucanjoinonline(thoughtheirlabelstilllooksprettygoodinanunderstatedsortofawayatsmartdinnerparties).
Obviously,theymainlysellwine(andgreatvalueitis)buthiddenawayontheirlististhislittlebeauty.TheSocietyhashadtheirownblendforyears,layingdownnewfillingsintheirownsherrycasksandwaitingaremarkable14yearsuntilit’sready.Untilrecently,Edrington’sJohnRamsaywasinchargeoftheblendand,prudently,considerablestockshavebeenlaiddownfollowinghisrecentretirementsothequalityisassuredforsomeyearsahead.Onlyaprivatemembers’organisationcoulddothis.
Theblendisaround40%singlemalt,withthedelicious,meaty,full-bodiedSpeysiderMortlachatitsheart.ThoughthisisnotanEdringtondistilleryithas,infact,featuredinTheSociety’sSpecialHighlandBlendformanyyears.ThefastidiousSocietyinsistthatnocaramelisusedtocolourthewhiskybut,despitetheHighlandname,IdetectsomeIslaycontentintheblend–orperhapsthemightyTaliskerfindsitswayinthere.Afterall,thelabelfeaturesahandsomeillustrationofDunveganCastleonSkye,inhonouroftheSociety’sfirstChairman,thesplendidlynamedTheMacleodofMacleod.
Whatevertheexactblendrecipe,you’llgoalongwaybeforeyoubeatthisdiscreetlychic,understatedandmellowdram.Excellentvalue,andtheirotherprivatelabelwhiskiesarealsowellworthexploring.ColourMidgold.Nose Sherryimpactevidentandsuggestionsofage.Somesmokebehind.Taste Very full bodied; a robust and ‘solid’whisky,meaty and oily even at
40%abv.
Finish Alingeringsweetnessremainsandplayswithfaintsmoketraces.
93 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
CompassBoxWhiskyCompanyn/a–thisisablendinghousen/aSpecialists
www.compassboxwhisky.com
TheSpiceTree
Thisisasomewhatcontroversialwhisky.ThefirstreleaseofTheSpiceTreeinsertedbrandnewoakstavesinthecasksusedtomaturethewhisky.Forreasonstooarcaneandlengthytogointohere,thisattractedthewrathoftheScotchWhiskyAssociation(SWA)whothreatenedCompassBoxwithlegalactioniftheydidn’tstop.TheensuingpublicitymeantthatthewhiskysoldoutinrecordtimebutCompassBoxfelttheycouldn’triskanyfurtherbatchesmadeinthisway.
However,theywerenotdeterredandspentthenextthreeyearstryingtofindamaturationmethodthatwaswithintherulesbutgavethesameeffect.Thisistheresult.Insteadofinsertingstavesintothecask,thecaskendsthemselveshavebeenheavilytoastedandthewhiskymaturedforafurthertwoyears.(ThereisadetailedandveryclearexplanationofthisontheCompassBoxwebsite.)It’snotimmediatelyevidentwhattheSWAobjectedtoexactly,otherthanmaintainingthattheprocesswasnot‘traditional’.Thisopensupawiderdebate,withanumberofcommentators(includingme)suggestingthattheSWAhasasomewhatelasticdefinitionoftraditionandthat,asaresult,itseemsthatmuchneededinnovationrisksbeingstifled.ProducersasdiverseasLochLomond,BruichladdichandCompassBoxhavealltakenissuewiththeSWA’sinterpretationoftheScotchWhiskyregulations,sofartoabsolutelynoavail.
However,thiswhiskyseemstobeacceptabletothegrandpanjandrumsandwecanallenjoyitwithaclearconscience.It’sblendedmalt,primarilyfromClynelish,andbottledat46%,hasanaturalcolourandisnon-chillfiltered.ByCompassBox’sstandardsit’snotparticularlyexpensiveand,asthisisasippingwhiskythatyou’lllingerover,abottlemaywelllastlongerthanyouthink.ColourAmber.Nose Quitefloralandthenspicy.Raisins,nutsandasuggestionofrosewater.Taste Brown bread, dark orange marmalade and brown sugar. Pronounced
spice and wood notes; a bold and assertive whisky for sipping.Marzipan.
Finish Complex and layered, this slips away slowlywith the spice and full-
bodiedsweetvanillahangingonforsomethingofacrescendo!
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CooleyDistilleryPLCCooley,Riverstown,Dundalk,IrelandYes–toursbyappointmentonlySpecialists
www.tyrconnellwhiskey.com
TheTyrconnell
TheresolutelyindependentCooleyDistillerywasrewardedforitspioneeringeffortswiththeawardofWorldDistilleroftheYearin2008andastaggeringtengoldmedalsfromtheInternationalWine&SpiritsCompetition(IWSC)in2009(followingninethepreviousyear).
Allthemoresurprisingthentolearnthatthedistilleryis,infact,aconvertedpotatoalcoholplantboughtin1987bytheenterprisingJohnTeelingandbackedbysome300shareholders.Twoyearsofhardworkfollowed,afterwhichCooleyDistillerywereabletofilltheirfirstcaskin1989.
However,TheTyrconnellhasamuchlongerhistoryandwasonceoneofIreland’sbest-knownwhiskeys.Thecompanyclaimthat,beforeProhibition,itwasamongthebest-sellingIrishwhiskeyintheUSA,pointingtoadvertisinghoardingsintheYankeestadiuminNewYorkasevidence.Thename,improbablyenough,comesfromthe100-1winneroftheIrishClassichorseraceTheNationalProduceStakeswhichin1876waswonbyTheTyrconnellracehorse,ownedbytheWattsfamilyofdistillers.Delightedwiththissuccessacommemorativewhiskeywaslaunched,whichcharmingstoryexplainsthesplendidlabelwithitsdelightfulperiodfeel,evenifthe1762dateonthepackagingisalittlehardertojustify.
ThewhiskeyitselfhasbeenamainstayforCooleyandtodaytherangehasbeenexpandedtoencompassextra-agedversions,variousfinishesandsomesingle-caskofferings,thebestofwhicharetrulysuperb.Butthesearegenerallyonlyinlimiteddistributionandthushardtofind.Whatismoreaccessibleisthestandardnon-agedSingleMalt.I’mtemptedtobeawhiskyknow-allandsuggestthatthiswouldbebetterbumpedupto46%abvandnon-chillfiltered,butthisisafinerepresentativeofthebestofIrishdistillingandagreatadvertisementforindependentownership.Colour Pale–bourbonmaturationatworkhere.Nose Citrusandspice.Cleanandappealing.Taste Somehoney,agreeablyoilyin thebody,citrus tangappealsandspice.
Mediumbody.
Finish Evolvesagreeablywiththeprincipalcharacteristicsshowingwell.
95 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
BurnStewartDistillersLtdTobermory,MullYes–toursbyappointmentSpecialists
www.tobermorymalt.com
Tobermory
15YearsOld
ThereissomethingundeniablyromanticabouttheideaofTobermorydistillery.Foronething,it’sonanisland.And,foranother,it’ssmallandhasbattledforsurvivalagainstalltheodds–thedistillerywasfoundedin1798(Barnardsays1823)butwas‘silent’forlongperiodsinthemid1800sand1930s,twicerevivedduringthe1970s,thenunderthreatofpropertydevelopmentuntilitcameintotheownershipofBurnStewartin1993.Soitwouldbeniceifitcouldsucceed.
Butthekindestthingthatonecouldsayaboutmuchofthewhisky,marketedalternatelyasTobermoryandLedaig,isthatthequalitywasvariable.Frankly,toadaptthewordsofthepoem,whenitwasgooditwasjustaboutOK,butwhenitwasbaditwashorrid.Ihavehadsomeshockersfromthisdistillery.However,atlast,there’ssomegoodnews.
Thewhiskycomingthroughnowhasbeendistilledbydeeplycommittedlong-termownersandundertheguidanceofthetraditionallymindedIanMcMillan,BurnStewart’sMasterBlenderandsomethingofazealot,thequalityofTobermoryismuchimproved.
Nowhereisthisseenmoreclearlythaninthis15-year-oldexpression(it’snocoincidencethatthedistillerychangedhands16yearsago),whichisverymuchlan’screation.ThecasksarestoredmainlyatBunnahabhainwhereeachyearheselectsaparcelofthebest.Thesearere-rackedinGonzalezByasssherrybuttsandsentbacktoMullforayear’sfurthermaturation(thereisverylimitedwarehousingthere)beforeitisbottled,non-chillfilterednaturally,at46.3%abvforloadsofcreamymouthfeel.
McMillan’smarketingcolleagueshavealsoraisedtheirgame,withanicebottle,handsomeboxandaninterestingwebsite.So,thereyouare–agoodnewsstory.Nowtrysome!Colour Richdeepgold.Nose Plentyofsherryimpact,darkorangemarmaladeandsomesuggestionof
smoke.
Taste Amedium body. Fruit cake, chocolate, vanilla toffees, light oak andsomespicenotes.
Finish Nuts,spiceandsalt.
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TheSazeracCompanyforJPVanWinkle&SonBuffaloTrace,FranklinCounty,KentuckyYes–butbearinmindthisis theBuffaloTracedistilleryandtoursaredesignedwiththatinmindYou’llhavetoseekitout
www.oldripvanwinkle.com
VanWinkle
FamilyReserveRye
Rye?Why?Youmightbegivingthisentrysomewrylooks.YoumighteventhinkthatVanWinkleisadaftnamemadeupbysomemarketingagency.
Wrong,wrong,wrong.Ryeiswhiskey’ssecret–thestylethatrefusedtodie.AstheInternationalHeraldTribuneputit:‘Ryewhiskeyistheworld’sgreatforgottenspirit,distinctive,complexanddelicious.Itoffersatactilepleasureunlikeanyotherwhiskeyintheworld.’
AndtheVanWinklecompanycantracethemselvesbacktothelate1800s(whichmakesthemAmericanwhiskeyaristocracy)whenJulianP.‘Pappy’VanWinkle,Sr.wasatravellingsalesmanfortheW.L.WellerandSonswholesalehouseinLouisville,haulinghissamplesroundthestatebyhorseandbuggy.
Afteracomplicatedhistory(lookitupifyou’reinterested,there’snospacehere)thecompanycontinuesinthehandsofJulianVanWinkleIIIandhisson,disappointinglynamedPreston.Likesomanyothergoodthings,theirwhiskies,mainlysoft,smooth,wheatedbourbons,aremadeattheBuffaloTraceDistillerynearLouisville.
Butthis13-year-oldryewhiskeystandsout.Ryeisn’tnormallyagedthatlongandtheresultisadelightfullycomplexandrewardingspiritthathasseducedmanyexperiencedtasters.PaulPacultgaveit5starsandscoresdon’tgohigherthanthat.GrababottleandtasteAmerica’soriginalwhiskey.
RyeisprobablywhatGeorgeWashingtonmade.It’scertainlywhattheWhiskeyRebellionof1794wasabout–and,ifwhiskeywasworthfightingover,youcancertainlygotothetroubleoftrackingdownabottle.Colour Richandwarming,withcopperhintsandhighlights.Nose Caramelandspice.Herbalnoseofsnuff.Taste Initially sweet,with toffeeand leather.Rancio.Developsdrying spice
andpeppernotes.
Finish Driedfruitsemphasisethecomplexityasthisrichandpowerfulwhiskeyfadesdelightfullyaway.
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Austin,NicholsDistillingCo.(CampariGroup)WildTurkey,Lawrenceburg,KentuckyYesSpecialists
www.wildturkeybourbon.com
WildTurkey
RareBreed
ThereareanumberofWildTurkeyvariants–astandardversionat8yearsold;anumberofagedversions;arye;Russell’sReserve,namedafterlegendaryMasterDistillerJimmyRussell;andevenaHoneyLiqueur(withitsownrathertacky‘AmericanHoney’calendar,fromacreativeteamthatapparentlyeatsregularlyinHootersandnodoubtbelievesthistheepitomeofupscalefinedining).Allaregood(withthepossibleexceptionofthecalendar)butIsuggestyouseekoutsomeWildTurkeyRareBreed.It’sasmallbatchKentuckyStraightBourbonWhiskey,blendedfrombarrelsatbetween6and12yearsofageandbottledatbarrelstrength(54.1%abv).
Thedistilleryhasbeenthroughseveralhands:mostrecentlyitwassoldbyPernodRicardtoraisecashtopayfortheirAbsolutvodkapurchase.ItnowbelongstotheItalianCampariGroup(theyalsoownGlenGrantinScotland).Atthetimeofwritingtheirplansforthebrandareunclearbutitwouldseemunlikelythattheywillintroducefundamentalchangetoawell-lovedbourbonicon,referencestowhichappearregularlyinpopularculture.Toursareavailableatthedistillery.
Thishigherstrengthspiritcantaketheadditionofsomewatertoopenupthemoredelicatearomas,butgocarefully.Itdoesnotrequiresignificantdilutionandmaybebestenjoyedasasippingwhiskey,forthoselongeveningsofcontemplation–unless,ofcourse,raucousrevelryismoretoyourtaste.Ifyoudotakeamomenttocontemplate,readthesmallbookletthatcomeswiththebottleandconsiderjoiningtheRareBreedSociety.
It’samarketingtooltohelpgatheryourcontactinformationbut,forabriefmoment,it’sfuntopretendthatyouareamemberofaprivilegedelite‘whoshareJimmyRussell’sdeepinterestinbourbonmakingandtasting’.Yeehah!ColourWarmredtoamber.Nose Highstrengthevidentinitially,thenberriesandvanillaandtoffee.Taste Caramel,corn,liquorice,somecitrusnotesandfreshredapples.
Finish Highlycomplexandlayered,withafinalkick.
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Price
Brown-FormanCorporationWoodfordReserve,Versailles,KentuckyYesGoodinspecialistsandsomesupermarkets
www.woodreserve.com
WoodfordReserve
Don’tmakethemistakeofaskingdirectionstoVersaillesinaEuropeanaccent(asIoncedid).Allyougetfromthelocalsareblanklooks–it’s‘Versales’!Butwhenyougettheresomethingsatleastwillseemfamiliar–especiallythestillroom.
Andthat’sbecausethedistinctivepotstillsinwhichWoodfordReserveisdistilledweremanufacturedinRothes,Scotland,andshippedtoKentuckywhereadistillerfromScotlandtaughtthelocalshowtousethem.
Singlebatchbourbonwas,inessence,theUS’sanswertothephenomenonofsinglemaltScotchandanattempttomakebourbon,whichhadacquiredablue-collarimage,chiconceagain.Well,it’sworkedandWoodfordReservewasoneofthefirsttoshowthatitcouldbedone.
Theparentcompany,Brown-FormanCorporation(whoalsoownJackDaniel’s),investedaround$14minrestoringtheoldLabrot&Grahamdistillerywhichtheyhadownedfor30yearsfrom1941.Theysolditin1971,boughtitbackin1994,turneditintoashowpiece,andrebrandeditasWoodfordReserve.
AtfirsttheproductcloselyresembledanotherB-Fbrand,OldForester,buttodayit’savattingofsomecolumnstillwhiskeywiththeoutputoftheL&Gpotstills,madeinsmallbatches.
Thedistillery,whichisonanunusualboutiquescalefortheUSA,hasafinevisitorcentre.Greatstressislaidonthelimestonespringwater,cypressfermentationvessels,smallpotstillsandstonewarehouses.TheresultisaKentuckyclassic,withmanyfans.ColourDarkhoney.Nose Vanillasweetness,honey,freshfruitsandhintsofchocolate.Taste Rich and warming, with layers of mint, tobacco, leather and fruit.
Smoothandfullbodied.WillseemsweettotheEuropeanpalate.
Finish Smoothandwarming;veryconsistentandbalanced.
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Price
SuntoryYamazaki,nearOsaka,HonshuIsland,JapanYes–ratedasoneofthebestintheworldanditalsohasanexcellentwhiskymuseumGoodinspecialists,somesupermarketscarryyoungerages
www.theyamazaki.jp
Yamazaki
12YearsOld
LookoutScotland!Wakeup!
ThereusedtobeanarroganceinScotlandaboutJapanesewhisky,bestsummedupinaScotchWhiskyAssociationpublicationof1951:‘TheJapscametothiscountryyearsago,copiedourplantandevenemployedsomeofourSpeysidepersonnel.TheyproducedanimitationofSpeysideWhiskywhichwasnotgoodalthoughdrinkable.’
Suchpatronisingattitudesdiehardandmaybeobservedtothisday.TothosewhoholdthemIsay,‘LookattheBritishcarindustry–thenbeafraid,beveryafraid.’
ThefactisthatthebestJapanesewhiskyisvery,verygoodandvery,veryJapanese.Yes,theirrestlesslyinnovative,quality-obsessedproducerscopiedthebestofScottishpractice,butthentheyadaptedandimproveditforJapaneseconditions.Asaresult,Japanesewhiskyiscollectingprizes,winningmedalsandgrowingfast.Inthefouryearsto2007,Yamazaki’sEuropeansalesgrew23times.Fromasmallbase,admittedly,butitcan’tbeignored.Infact,whiskieslikethisshouldbecelebrated.
TheoriginalJapanesemaltdistillery,Yamazakiwasfoundedin1923atthesiteofafamouswatersourcewherethreeriversconverge.Thedistilleryisoftenshroudedinmistandthewarehousessitshelteredbyabambooforest.Japanesedistillersdon’tswap‘fillings’fortheirblendswithrivalssothestillsatYamazakiarealldifferentinsizeandshape,permittingabewilderingrangeofstylestobeproduced.
Tryanyyoucanfind.ThereareotherJapanesewhiskieslistedherebutthisoneisafavouriteandagreat,good-valueintroductiontoawholeotherworldofwhisky.ColourGold.Nose Vanilla,clovesandpanettone.
Taste Medium bodied. Sweet, then spicy. Honey and lemon. Dried fruits.Wood.
Finish Dryandspicy.
100 ProducerDistillery
VisitorCentre
Availability
Price
SuntoryYamazaki,nearOsaka,HonshuIsland,JapanYes–ratedasoneofthebestintheworldanditalsohasanexcellentwhiskymuseumGoodinspecialists,somesupermarketscarryyoungerages
www.theyamazaki.jp
Yamazaki
18YearsOld
In1923,ShinjiroTorii,thefounderofSuntoryandapioneerofJapanesewhisky,builtJapan’sfirstmaltwhiskydistilleryintheValeofYamazaki.Usingcopperpotstills,theYamazakidistillerywasthefirstofitskindoutsideofScotland.Thedistillery’slocationontheoutskirtsofJapan’sancientcapitalofKyotoofferedpurewaters,diversityofclimateandhighhumidity–theidealenvironmentforthematurationofgoodwhisky.
Today,Suntory’sYamazakiisthemostpopularsinglemaltwhiskyinJapanandisenjoyedbywhiskyconnoisseursinmorethan25countries.ThevisitorcentreatYamazakiisalsoverypopularattractingaround100,000visitorsannuallyforthefree,90-minuteguidedtour.
ThisolderversionofYamazakiisrelativelyeasytofindintheUK.However,ifyoufindthatyoulikeit,therearealsoanumberoflimitedreleasesandspecialfinishes–though,thesearegenerallymoreexpensiveand/orhardertofind.Theextraagehaschangedthiswhiskyquitemarkedly,addingdepthanddistinctiontotheflavour.Wherethe12-year-oldispleasantlylight,thishasextrabodyandadditionalcomplexity,withoutinanywayfeelingoveraged.Byanystandard,it’sanimpressiveandenjoyablewhisky.
IntheUKSuntoryownMorrisonBowmoreandthereforehaveachievedquitewidespreaddistributioninlargersupermarkets,specialistsandwhiskybars.Theyhavebeenactiveinenteringcompetitivetastingsandthis18YearsOldexpressionhaswonmajorawardsfromtheInternationalWine&SpiritsCompetition,SanFranciscoWorldSpiritsCompetitionandtheBeverageTastingInstitute.Colour Coppergold.Nose Black cherry seems to be a Yamazaki signature, also some oakiness,
sherry,andtheageisevident.Taste Fullerthanthe12Years.Toffee.Earthy,dusty,rooty–it’swood,Jock,
butnotasweknowit.Driedfruits,mossandbark(butnobite).Finish Quite satisfyingly long and consistent. Some commentators get
pomegranate.Idon’t.
101 ProducerDistilleryVisitorCentreAvailabilityPrice
NikkaYoichi,Hokkaido,JapanYesSpecialists
www.nikka.com
Yoichi
10YearsOld
Thisisoneofthereallygreatwhiskystories–afittingendtothisexplorationof101whiskiestotrybeforeyoudie.
ThecompanythattodayweknowasNikkawasfoundedinJuly1934whenMasatakaTaketsuruboughtalargeparcelofreclaimedlandbytheYoichiRiver,asiteherecognisedasbeingidealforproducingwhiskyinaScottishstyle.ThishadbeenhisdreamsincestudyingdistillinginScotlandfrom1918–20(duringwhichtimehealsomarriedScotsgirlRitaCowan).HereturnedtoJapanin1920andhelpedestablishtheYamazakidistillery.
Buthewantedtobuild,ownandoperatehisown‘Scottish’distilleryinJapanand,assuch,heiswidelyhonouredasthe‘father’ofJapanesewhisky.TodayYoichiisownedbyAsahiBreweriesbutcontinuestooperateinahighlytraditionalmanner,withdirect-firingofthespiritstillsandwormtubsforcondensingthespirit.AselsewhereinJapan,thedistillerycanadaptquicklytodifferingstylesofwhisky,asaresultofwhichnospiritfromoutsidethecompanyisrequiredforblending.
TaketsurumanagedthecompanythroughWorldWar2,itsmergerwithAsahiandthedevelopmentofthecompany’sSendaidistilleryin1969.Heeventuallydiedin1979,aged85.In1989NikkaacquiredtheBenNevisdistilleryinFortWilliam,Scotland,andrestartedproductionthere,thuscompletingakindofacircleinthisremarkableman’scontributiontothehistoryanddevelopmentofwhiskyinbothJapanandScotland.
ThereareseveralexpressionsavailablebutthemostaccessibleintheUKisthis10-year-oldstyle.Various‘Nikka’brandedmaltsarealsoseen,someofwhichcontainwhiskyfromYoichi(e.g.NikkaBlackandNikkaTaketsurupuremalts).Drinkanyoftheseandraiseyourglasstoatruevisionaryandpioneer,whoreallytriedbeforehedied.ColourDeepbronze.Nose Boldanddirect,withpeatevident.Lightcitrusnotes.
Taste Minty chocolate and orange oil.Creamymouth feel and delicate peatsmoke.
Finish Sweetness,peatandsomeantisepticnotesinalternatewaves.
Howtotastewhiskyandusethisbook
Tastingwhisky–anywhisky–isstraightforward.Followthesesimplerulestogetthemostfromyourdram.
Usetherightglass.Atumblerishopeless.WhatyouneedistheGlencairnCrystalwhiskyglass(buyonlinefromwww.glencairn.co.uk).Ifyoucan’tfindthose,getasherrycopitaorbrandysniftertoconcentratevolatilearomasandhelpyou‘nose’thewhisky.
Fixthearomaandtastewithassociations–thesmellofnew-mowngrass,forexample,avanilla-flavouredtoffeeortherichtasteoffruitcake.
Addalittlewater.Itopensupthespiritandpreventsyourtastebudsfrombecomingnumbedbyalcohol.
Rollthewhiskyrightroundyourmouthand‘chew’it.Givetheflavourstimetodevelop:thewhiskyhasbeenageingforyears–giveitasleastasmanysecondsandtherewardswillbehuge.
Finally,thinkaboutthe‘finish’,orthelingeringtastethatremains.Howconsistentisit?Whatnewflavoursemerge?
Relax,keeppractisingandyou’llverysoondiscoverwhisky’suniquerichness.
Imagineyouwereabouttomakeatriptoaforeignland.Usethisbookasasortoftraveller’sguidetothenewcountry:itpointsyoutosomesightsthatyoudidn’tknowwerethereormightotherwisehaveignoredonyourjourney.Idon’tclaimtohavealltheanswers;Idon’tknowwhatwhiskyyoulikeandthere’snoreasonatalltoassumethatyou’lllikethesamewhiskiesasme.That’swhytherearenoscoreshere.Butyoucanbeassuredthateverywhiskyhereishereforareasonandthattheyaregood,oftengreat,whiskiesoftheirkind.
Sotrythematleastonce.Beforeyoudie.
Acknowledgements
Mywife,Lindsay,hasbeenenormouslypatientandputupwithmygrumpymoodsandmentalabsenceswhilewritingthisbook.Presumablyshe’susedtoitbynow.Worryingly,sheclaimsthatshedidn’tnoticeanydifference.Eitherway,thebiggestthanksgotoher.
Myagent,JudyMoir,believedinthebookfromthestartandwaspositive,helpfulandencouraging.Herhusband,Neville,helpedaswell:heknowswhathedid!ThankstobothofthemandtoBobMcDevittatHachetteforhisenthusiasmandsupport.JoRoberts-Millerdidagreatjobeditingthebookindouble-quicktime.
Iruthlesslyexploitedmostofmycontactsinthewonderfulworldofwhiskybyaskingthemtonominatetheirthree‘DesertIslandDrams’,withoutrevealingthepurposeoftheenquiry.Thisgroupincludesdistillers,blenders,whiskywriters,retailers,companydirectorsandvisitorcentreguides–anyone,infact,whoseemstometotalksenseaboutwhiskyandwasableandwillingtooffersomeinsights.Therealreason,ofcourse,wastoensurethatIdidn’tmissanythingout.Theircumulativewisdomdrewmyattentiontomanygems.
Inalphabeticalordermy‘oracles’were:
RussellAnderson,RaymondArmstrong,HelenArthur,DaveBroom,JonathanBrown,ChrisBunting,FrankColeman,YvesCosentino,RonnieCox,JasonCraig,KatherineCrisp,JimCryle,KathleenDiBenedetto,DrClemensDillmann,DuncanElphick,KevinErskine,JamesEspey,GrahamEunson,MichaelFraser-Milne,JohnGlaser,PeterGordon,LawrenceGraham,AlanGray,KenGrier,TeimeiHoriuchi,ProfessorPaulHughes,DavidHume,BarrieJackson,RichardJoynson,NaofumiKamiguchi,MikeKeiller,IainKennedy,DavidKing,JohnLamond,BillLark,JimLong,MhairiMacDonald,NeilMacDonald,IanMacIlwain,CharlieMacLean,IanMacMillan,NialMackinlay,AnabelMeikle,MarcinMiller,TatsuyaMinagawa,PhilipMorrice,PeterMuller,PeterMulryan,DavidNathan-Maister,StuartNickerson,AlexNicol,MartineNouet,BeckyOffringa,HansOffringa,BillOwens,RichardPaterson,BrettPontoni,VijayRekhi,KenRobertson,IngvarRonde,DominicRoskrow,FranzScheurer,ColinScott,JacquiSeargeant,SukhinderSingh,GavinDSmith,StuartSmith,DavidStewart,StevenSturgeon,JackTeeling,LukeTegner,JeffreyTopping,MisakoUdo,KerryWalshSkerry,IainWeir,NeilWilson,AlanWinchester,DavidWishart,IanWisniewskiandGrahamWright.
Mythankstoallofthem.
Furtherresources
BooksTherearemany,manybooksandwebsitesaboutwhisky;somewouldsaytoomany.However,Ihavesuggestedjustafewhereforfurtherreading,theideabeing(likethelistofwhiskies)topointyouinvariousdirectionsinthepursuitofknowledge.
ThefirstmodernbookwrittenaboutwhiskywasAeneasMacDonald’sWhisky,reissuedinfacsimilein2006.Despiteitsage(itfirstappearedin1930)itiswellworthreadingasapoeticgeneralintroductiontoScotchwhiskythatisstillsurprisinglyrelevant.
ForthehistoryoftheScotchwhiskyindustryMichaelMossandJohnHume’sTheMakingofScotchWhiskyisvaluable,thoughdryandnowsomewhatdated.ScotchWhisky–ALiquidHistorybyCharlesMacleanisrathereasiergoing.AnytitlebyCharlieisworthreading.
GavinD.SmithisverystrongonthepeopleandpersonalitiesinScotch.LookoutforTheWhiskyMen.FortasteevaluationofScotchwhiskiestryWhiskyClassifiedbyDavidWishart.
ThereisverylittleinEnglishonJapanesewhisky.PerhapsthemostauthoritativeisJapaneseWhisky:Facts,FiguresandTastebyUlfBuxrud.Itdoeswhatitsaysinthetitle.IfthereisareallygoodbookonAmericanwhiskiesithaspassedmebyandanup-to-dateaccountofIrishwhiskeyisbadlyneeded.
Formorecomprehensivecoverageofallworldwhiskiesandabasicintroduction,lookforWorldWhiskyeditedbyCharlesMacLean.Iwasoneofanumberofcontributors.TheneweditionofthelateMichaelJackson’sMaltWhiskyCompanionhasbeencompiledbyDominicRoskrowandGavinD.Smithandisexhaustive.SomepeoplefindJimMurray’sannualWhiskyBibleuseful.Hetastesalmosteverything!
TheMaltWhiskyYearbookisissuedannuallyandcoversmorethanjustsingle
malt.Itisaninvaluableguide;accurate,regularlyupdatedandamineofinterestinginformation,especiallyonnewdistilleries.
AtinylittlecompanycalledClassicExpressions,whichIrunwithacolleague,reprintsrarecollectableclassicsofwhiskywritinginnumberedlimitededitions–www.classicexpressions.co.uk.
Therearevariousmagazines.Perhapsthebest(inEnglish)areWhiskyMagazine(UK)anditsAmericancounterpartTheMaltAdvocate.
WebsitesThereareliterallyhundreds,perhapsthousands,ofwebsitesonwhisky,rangingfromtheexhaustivetothescanty,theauthoritativeandreliabletothefranklyeccentric.Bloggerscomeandgoandmaintaintheirsiteswithdifferentlevelsofenthusiasmandaccuracy.Virtuallyeverybrandofnotemaintainsitsownsite:ifyoureadbetweenthePRlinestheremaybesomeusefulinformation.
Giventhatthewebevolvesandchangesbothrapidlyandconstantly,thefollowingrecommendationsmaybeoflimitedvalue.However,forwhatitisworth,Idolookatthesesitesfairlyregularly.ApologiestothosethatIhavemissedorforgottenabout.Afewhours‘googling’willturnupmorewhiskysitesthanyouthoughtpossible.Goodluck!
www.irelandwhiskeytrail.com(exactlywhatyou’dexpectwiththatname)
www.maltmadness.com(setasideagoodchunkoftimeifyouventurehere)
www.maltmaniacs.org(Ican’timaginehowtheyfindthetimetokeepthisup!)
www.nonjatta.blogspot.com(reportsinEnglishfromJapan)
www.ralfy.com(thisisgreatfun)
www.whiskycast.com(authoritativewhiskypodcasts)
www.whiskyfun.com(‘it’saboutsinglemalts,music,enjoyinglifeingeneral’)
www.whiskyintelligence.com(newsupdatesandpressreleases)
www.whisky-pages.com(GavinD.Smith’stastingnotesandreviews)
Wheretobuy
Therearenowagreatnumberofoff-licences(liquorstores)allroundtheworldthattradeaswhiskyspecialists,andmanyofthemareexcellent,withknowledgeableandenthusiasticstaff.IcanthinkofexamplesasfarawayasSwitzerland,Singapore,NewZealandand,ofcourse,theUSA.Newonesarespringingupallthetimeaswhiskygrowsinpopularityandthechoicetheyoffercanbedeliciouslybewildering.Intheinterestsofmysanitythough,thissectionisrestrictedtotheUK,wherefortunatelyforuswearespoiltforchoicewithexcellentspecialistwhiskyretailers.Thefollowinghaveparticularlygoodonlineshoppingfacilities:RoyalMileWhiskies,Edinburghwww.royalmilewhiskies.com
TheWhiskyExchange,Londonwww.thewhiskyexchange.com
LochFyneWhiskies,Inveraraywww.lochfynewhiskies.co.uk
Butideallyyoushouldbrowseandtalktosomeenthusiasticandwell-informedstaff.Therearemanymoregoodshops,notablyTheWhiskyShop(UKwide),TheWeeDram(Bakewell,Derbyshire),LincolnWhiskyShop,TheWhiskyShop(Dufftown),TheWhiskyCastle(Tomintoul),Arkwrights(Highworth,Wiltshire),ParkersofBanff,RobertGrahams(Glasgow),WhiskiesofScotland(Huntly),Nickolls&Perks(Stourbridge)andLuvians(StAndrews).
Aboveall,Gordon&MacPhail’sshopinElginisashrineandwellworthavisit.Seetheirentryinthe101.
InLondonyouwillfindTheWhiskyExchange,RoyalMileWhiskies,BerryBros&Rudd,Milroy’sofSohoandTheVintageHouse.Nationally,thebetterOddbinsstoreshaveagoodselectionofwhiskyandtheyhaveagoodwebsite,too.
Picturecredits
Theauthorandpublisherwouldliketothankthefollowingforsupplyingthephotographsinthebook.Everyefforthasbeenmadetofulfilrequirementswithregardtoreproducingcopyrightmaterial.Theauthorandpublisherwillbegladtorectifyanyomissionsattheearliestopportunity.
IncidentalimageryPage6 TheSpencerfieldSpiritsCompanyPage12 HighlandPark
WhiskyimageryAberfeldy21 BacardiGlobalBrandLtdAberloura'bunadh ChivasBrothersAmrutFusion AmrutDistilleriesLtdanCnoc16 BurtGreenerCommunicationsArdbeg10 TheGlenmorangieCompanyArdbegUigeadail TheGlenmorangieCompanyAsyla CompassBoxWhiskyAuchentoshanClassic MorrisonBowmoreDistillersBalblair’89 BurtGreenerCommunicationsBallantines17 ChivasBrothersBasilHayden's BeamGlobalSpirits&WineBenRiach TheBenRiachDistilleryBenromachOrganic BenromachSpeysideSingleMalt
ScotchWhiskyBernheimOriginalWheat HeavenHillDistilleries,Inc.BlackBottle AlanStewartPhotographyBlackGrouse TheBlackGrouse
Bladnoch8 BladnochDistilleryBlueHanger BerryBros.&RuddSpiritsBNJBailieNicolJarvie TheGlenmorangieCompanyBowmoreTempest MorrisonBowmoreDistillersBruichladdich12 BruichladdichDistilleryBuffaloTrace BuffaloTraceDistilleryBunnahabhain18 C&HCreativeBushmills16 DiageoplcCameronBrig TheWhiskyExchangeCaolIla12 DiageoplcChivasRegal25 ChivasBrothersClynelish14 DiageoplcCrownRoyal DiageoplcCuttySark BerryBros.&RuddSpiritsCuttySark25 BerryBros.&RuddSpiritsDalmore12 White&MacKayDalwhinnie15 DiageoplcDeanston12 SalkeldPhotographyDewar’s12 BacardiGlobalBrandLtdDewar’sSignature BacardiGlobalBrandLtdEagleRare BuffaloTraceDistilleryElijahCraig12 HeavenHillDistilleries,Inc.GlenBreton GlenoraDistilleriesGlenfarclas105 J&GGrantGlenfarclas21 J&GGrantGlenfiddich18 WilliamGrant&SonsDistillersGlenfiddich30 WilliamGrant&SonsDistillersGlenglassaugh26 AnneSmithGlenglassaughSpiritDrink AnneSmithGlengoyne21 IanMacLeodDistillersGlenlivet21 ChivasBrothersGlenmorangie-QuintaRuban TheGlenmorangieCompany
Gordon&MacPhail-GlenGrant25 Gordon&MacPhailGreenSpot Mitchell&SonHakushu18 SuntoryLiquorLtdPage216 TheBenRiachDistilleryPage218 HighlandParkHedonism CompassBoxWhiskyHibiki17 SuntoryLiquorLtdHibiki30 SuntoryLiquorLtdHighlandPark18 HighlandParkHighlandPark21 HighlandParkHighlandPark30 HighlandParkHighlandPark40 HighlandParkIsleofJuraSuperstition White&MacKayJameson-LimitedReserve18 IrsihDistillersPernodRicardJohnnieWalkerBlack DiageoplcJohnnieWalkerBlueKGV DiageoplcKilchoman KichomanDistilleryKnobCreek BeamGlobalSpirits&WineLagavulin16 DiageoplcLaphroaigQuarterCask LimePRLongrowCV SpringbankDistilleriesLtdMackmyra JohanOlssonMaker'sMark TheWhiskyExchangeMellowCorn HeavenHillDistilleries,Inc.MonkeyShoulder WilliamGrant&SonsDistillersMortlach16 DiageoplcNikkaAllMalt AsahiBreweries,LtdOban14 DiageoplcOldPulteney17 BurtGreenerCommunications
Redbreast12 IrsihDistillersPernodRicard
Scapa ChivasBrothersSmokeheadExtraBlack IanMacLeodDistillersSpeyburnSolera25 BurtGreenerCommunicationsSpringbank10 SpringbankDistilleriesLtdTalisker10 DiageoplcTalisker18 DiageoplcTheBalvenie21 WilliamGrant&SonsDistillersTheBalvenie30 WilliamGrant&SonsDistillersTheGlenrothes-SelectReserve TheGlenrothesTheMacallan10 TheMacallanDistilleryLtdTheMacallan18 TheMacallanDistilleryLtdTheMacallan30 TheMacallanDistilleryLtdTheSociety'sSpecial-HighlandBlend BrendanMacNeillTheSpiceTree CompassBoxWhiskyThomasHHandy-SazeracStraightRye BuffaloTraceDistilleryTobermory15 GoodCreativeTyrconnell CooleyDistilleryVanWinkleFamily-ReserveRye BuffaloTraceDistilleryWildTurkey TheWhiskyExchangeWoodfordReserve WoodfordReserveDistilleryYamazaki12 SuntoryLiquorLtdYamazaki18 SuntoryLiquorLtdYoichi10 AsahiBreweries,Ltd
*‘Fromheadtoheel’,sinceyouhadtoask.WereyouasleepinDoubleLatin?
*No,nottheAmericansinger.Tryandkeepup–thisisawhiskybook!
TableofContentsIntroduction101whiskiesHowtotastewhiskyandusethisbookAcknowledgementsFurtherresourcesWheretobuyPicturecredits