100 degree triangle rail construction manualFrom

Big Deal Volumes

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This Manual is published under a Creative Commons, Attribution Non-commercial license. (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc/3.0/us/)

Anyone can use it, Anyone can modify it, Anyone can have it.No one can profit from it.

Disclaimer: climbing is inherently dangerous, and so are power tools. Do not attempt to construct anything in this manual without proper training or safety precautions. Doing so can result in injury or death. The methods and design laid out in this manual are not a certification of integrity, that is up to you and your construction.

Table of Contents100 degree triangle rail construction manual............................................................................................. 1

by Jace W...............................................................................................................................................1Fine cut pieces............................................................................................................................................3Laying out & cutting out the plywood panels............................................................................................5Cutting the angles into the panels.............................................................................................................. 8Laying out the jig..................................................................................................................................... 10Laying out the screw locations.................................................................................................................13drill the outlined holes..............................................................................................................................15Layout T-nut locations............................................................................................................................. 16glueing it all together............................................................................................................................... 19Sanding.....................................................................................................................................................23Finishing...................................................................................................................................................24

Varnish with texture........................................................................................................................24Epoxy and texture........................................................................................................................... 24Latex spray paint.............................................................................................................................25Textures...........................................................................................................................................25

anti cheating devices................................................................................................................................ 26clean up.................................................................................................................................................... 27References:...............................................................................................................................................28Required Materials:..................................................................................................................................29Required Tools:........................................................................................................................................ 30Helpful tools:............................................................................................................................................31Estimated cost breakdown:...................................................................................................................... 32Credits:..................................................................................................................................................... 33Contact US............................................................................................................................................... 34

BigDealVolumes@gmail.com ............................................................................................................ 34

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Fine cut pieces

Dimensions for individual pieces.

• Panel A:

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• Panel B:

• Panel C: (2 required per volume)

• Panel D: (cut from the 1in x 1in x 36in Poplar Square Dowel) (11 required per volume)

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Laying out & cutting out the plywood panels.Measure twice, cut once.

• For piece dimensions see the 'Fine cut pieces' section• This layout accounts for a full width (1/8in.) table saw blade.

• Adjust the distances as you need to create the outlined pieces.

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• This pattern creates enough pieces for 2 full volumes (can you say hand jams?)• The cut pattern outlined here is just to simplify the process, feel free to adjust as you need.

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• Cut the pieces for panels D • (11 per volume) (cut from the 1in x 1in x 36in Poplar Square Dowel)

• These pieces need to be as identical as possible to prevent problems later.

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Cutting the angles into the panels“Safety 2nd” -nine fingered man

• It takes some practice to get the angles just right, practice on scrap first.• Be sure to not accidently remove too much material when cutting the angles.• Obey all the warnings and cautions on your power tools• Panel A:

• Panel B:

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• Panel C: (this piece should already be cut from earlier, but its here for redundancy)

• Panel D: (cut from the 1in x 1in x 36in Poplar Square Dowel )

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Laying out the jig

• The jig is here to help with several steps in this process.• Some of the layout lines will help with t-nut locations, and others with the assembly process.

• The following illustrations are to aid in understanding how the jig is used in the construction process.

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Laying out the screw locations

• Some of these locations require an angle when drilled.• This step is only to layout the center point of each drill hole only, not for drilling.• Panel A: (these dimensions are laid out on the larger of the 2 sides)

• Panel B:

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This row is angled. See bellow.

• the bottom row of holes must be drilled at 50 deg off of 90 deg to the piece.• The entire bottom row of panel B should be offset, its recommended that you make special note

of these.

• Panel C: don’t worry about piloting those holes, they can be made later• Panel D: don’t worry about piloting these holes, they can be drilled later, but just in case.

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Drill the outlined holes.

• An angle drill guide is almost a requirement for this project; its well worth the money.• When drilling for wood screws make sure that you are drilling with the proper drill bit #• The outlined holes are for #8 wood screws.• Recommended drill bit is a 11/64 bit with a 3/8 countersink. (see recommended tools)• Its not advised to use self countersinking screws because they may cause problems later.• Most of the mounting holes are designed for 2in. long screws• 1.25-in. screws are needed for joining the volume together• #8 x 2-in. star drive wood screws.• #8 x 1.25-in. star drive wood screws.

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Layout T-nut locationsThe jig can be a great aid in construction if laid out correctly. For the sake of consistency, all t-nut

holes are taken from the pre drilled holes on the Jig.

• Ensure that you are not drilling where a t-nut wont fit.• When in doubt, don't drill. You can always drill it later.• Don't use a spade drill bit, they tend to chip plywood unless you are careful.• This design assumes the following:

• the hole will be drilled with a 7/16 forstner bit• the t-nuts are 3 screw type (these do less damage in the long run and are easier to replace

• Panel A: (remember that not all available holes should be drilled)

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• Panel B: (remember that not all available holes should be drilled)

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• Panel C: (up to and including this step, both panel C's are identical.)

• At this point you can install the t-nuts, however doing this means you will need to plug the holes later to prevent damage.

• There are a few ways to plug t-nut holes.• Foam plugs that are cut off a long foam rod.• Expanding foam, but the threads must be re-taped after, this option looks the best but is

the most time consuming.• Expanding ear plugs, these are cheap and easy to push out at the end of the project, but

the upfront cost may be higher, good thing you can reuse them for another volume if your careful.

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Glueing it all together

With all the holes drilled, why not just screw it together?◦ Gluing the volume together has lots of benefits in the long run and immediate gain.◦ Gluing fills in the gaps that would otherwise need to be filled in with putty.◦ It keeps the volume from shifting against the screws (a normal occurrence when wood is

loaded and unloaded)◦ It keeps the volume from squeaking and sounding unsafe.

▪ When someone else is dynoing off it with all their might, you will feel better knowing that you put some glue in there too.

• Its recommended to use Titebond III type glue. ◦ However, the chief components to look for are sand-ability and at minimum 3500psi

strength.• The jig is useful for gluing panels A & B, more support may be necessary.

• Before applying glue to the A & B panels line, install screws on the jig so they hold the panels.4 screws is typically enough to prevent the panels from shifting.

• Clean the surfaces to be joined with the cleaner recommended for the glue you are using• Apply the glue.

◦ There should be glue slightly protruding from all edges of the joint to ensure a consistent bond.

• Join the pieces• Install the 1.25 in long screws along the bond line.• Wait for the glue to dry• Important: go get a drink (you know, rehydrate)• When the glue has set, remove the pieces from the jig and flip them over.

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• Support the pieces in whatever manner you see fit.• One method is to move the screws closer together, or use some scrap pieces from the panel we

cut from earlier.• Clean the edges of C panels and the mating surfaces on panels A & B.

• Ensure that C panels are as flush as possible to the ends of A & B.• Its recommended that you use clamps to hold C in place while glueing and installing screws.• Glue the pieces together• Clamp the pieces together• Clean the holes for panel c by drilling into them• Install the 1.25 in. long screws for panel C• Wait for the glue to set.

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• Prepare pieces D for installing• outline the spacing for D pieces while the glue from panel C is drying

*you should only need to do this on one side• Test fit D pieces before glueing, they should all sit flush or bellow the edges of the rest of the

volume.• If they are too high, sand down the ends that contact panel A.• Clean the mating surfaces

• Clean the sides of the pieces that contact panels C.• Glue D pieces in.

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• Apply light weights to the pieces to ensure they seat against the other panels.• Let the whole thing rest until the glue is fully set.

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SandingNote: If you have installed the t-nuts by this step, and have not already, its advised that you plug the holes with squishy ear plugs before sanding, the dust can become difficult to remove later and may damage the threads.

• The first step in getting a good finish is to sand a very long time and do it very well.• A handheld rotary sander is a good investment for a project of this size and will save you time

and effort.• Its a good idea to fill all the screw heads and surrounding area with wood putty to help hide the

screws. Wood glue is an alternative, however it takes longer to set to a sand-able state.• Sand down the sharp edges with 60 grit paper.• Keep sanding and reducing the grit when applicable from 60 to 80 to 150 to 220 grit.• After you are satisfied that everything is smooth and shaped the way you want it, move on.

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FinishingNote: If you have installed the t-nuts by this step, its advised that you plug the holes with squishy

ear plugs before finishing, the dust and finish can become difficult to remove later and may damage the threads.

▪ Varnish with texture

there are several schools of thought on how to finish a volume.

There are several benefits to varnish, its cheap, it looks good, its easy to work with, and it just works, no extra fuss. However there are some drawbacks, it has a tenancy to crack over time and may require resurfacing, and its not the strongest stuff out there.

• apply a thin coat of varnish to the entire exterior of the volume• allow it to fully dry in an area with good ventilation and at the appropriate temp.• sand with 220 grit sand paper• wipe off entire exterior with a damp rag to remove all dust.• Repeat the process 2 more times with a new layer of varnish and sanding.• On the final layer instead of sanding with 220, sand with 400 grit.• You can choose to leave the volume with a slick sheen or spray it with an anti

slip agent, like rustoliums epoxy guard anti skid spray from home depot.

▪ Epoxy and texture

There are many manufactures of epoxy systems and they are not all equal. Some are more expensive and have higher strength ratios, others are cheaper and still look ok.

The recommendation for this volume is West systems epoxy, its strong and lasts a long time, not to mention all the options for modifying the epoxy they offer so you can achieve some very nice results.The other option is clear bar top of one form or another, these tend to be a bit cheaper and keep a very nice clear sheen to them for a long time, however, they can be brittle and texturing them is difficult.

• When mixing epoxy’s you need good ventilation and should follow all the manufactures instructions.

• The process is similar to varnish except with each new coat you need mix a new batch of epoxy.

• Some epoxy’s need to have additional coats applied within a specific amount of time, so you may need to schedule a block of time to apply additional coats.

• Texture is not all impossible and in some cases lasts longer than other textures.• The best method for texture epoxy that I have seen is to apply layers until the last

coat, then apply an extra thin layer and sprinkle it with iodized salt.• Let the coat settle then rinse the volume gently with water to dissolve the salt

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particles.• This takes some effort to get just right, I highly recommend you practice first.

▪ Latex spray paint

latex is cheap, fast, and looks good provided you have a good base layer and you can change color on a whim later.It is however, quick to wear and sometimes will leave imprints from holds being fastened to it.

• Seal the wood first, then apply a good base coat.• With 220 grit sandpaper go over the base coat with light high speed strokes.• Wipe the volume down with a damp cloth to remove leftover particulate.• Spray the volume with your first paint coat.• From here, you have lots of creative license to get artistic with the paints.• Its recommended that you spray a clear latex top coat to protect your art.• Spray on anti slip layers work great on latex paint, just be prepared to reapply the

texture when it needs it, depending on your traffic.◦ Anti slip layers can be sanded off later but at the cost of a few sanding disks.

▪ Textures

• Spray on non-slip works great and you can lay a stencil over areas to

create some interesting patterns.

• Skateboard grip tape works fantastic too, its strong, removes easy when worn out and creates an excellent textured surface.

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Anti cheating devices• The common practice is to use duct tape to prevent people from grabbing the edge of a volume.• The recommended option is to buy skirtboard rubber

Skirtboard is designed to be under high pressure for long periods of time.• One of the cheaper producers is www. rubber sheetroll.com

they also offer an adhesive backing thus removing the need for additional glue.• Its recommended that you use 1/6 in thick or 3/32 in thick by 0.5 in or 1 in wide strips.• Rubber striping of this size is relatively cheap when compared to the cost or repairing a volume.• When applying the striping apply it with a slight overlay on the edges, then trim it back later.• Only apply the rubber around the very outside perimeter of the volume.

• This rubber striping will prevent cheating, ensure a good surface mount to the wall, prevent creaking when the volume is weighted, and prevent damage to the wall and volume over time.

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Clean up• After all the glue, paint, tape and beer has dried, its time to do a few last steps to make it look

good.• If you plugged the t-nut holes earlier, its time to unplug them, typically the easiest way is to

punch them out from the back but as long as your sure where the holes are, do whatever is easiest.

• Clean the mounting holes with the drill bit from earlier to make sure no paint or particulate got in.

Note: To make the wood last longer, put some high strength epoxy into the countersink area of the screw holes. When you mount the volume and drive the screws in, the countersink heads will have more ability to hold the wood.

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References:Human exertion limits

http://msis.jsc.nasa.gov/sections/section04.htm

Plywood structural references

http://apawood-europe.org/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/PS-1-09-+APA-trademarks.pdf

T-nut pull through testing data

http://www.agriculture.purdue.edu/fnr/faculty/eckelman/documents/d199856a.pdf

Wood screw technical report by the Forest Products Lab of the US federal government

http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/fplgtr/fplgtr190/chapter_08.pdf

Tiebond III Glue information

http://www.titebond.com/product.aspx?id=e8d40b45-0ab3-49f7-8a9c-b53970f736af

Tiebond III Glue MSDS

http://www.franklininternational.com/msds/1413.042m0fao0020.pdf

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Required Materials:¾ in x 4ft x 8ft plywood

http://www.lowes.com/pd_75514-99899-75514_0__?productId=3658448&Ntt=3%2F4in+4ft+8ft+plywood&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3D3%252F4in%2B4ft%2B8ft%2Bplywood&facetInfo=

1inx1inx36in

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-1-in-x-1-in-Poplar-Square-Dowel-1-3HWSQED/202287699

#8 2in wood screws

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Drive-Straight-8-2-in-Star-Flat-Head-Exterior-Screws-130-Pack-57322/100190883?N=5yc1vZc2blZ1z0sg12Z1z0sg14Z1z12l90

#8 1.25in wood screws

http://www.homedepot.com/p/SPAX-8-x-1-1-4-in-Star-Flat-Head-Wood-Screw-240-per-Pack-4191020400326/202040967?N=5yc1vZc2blZ1z0sg0uZ1z0sg12Z1z12l90

Tiebond III Glue

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Titebond-III-16-oz-Ultimate-Wood-Glue-1414/100522343

Optional finishing supplies as you see fit:

West systems epoxy (http://www.westsystem.com/ss/product-selection-chart)

• 105 Epoxy

• 207 Hardener

• 406 Additive silica

Barcoat (http://www.bestbartopepoxy.com)

latex spray paint (any brand as long as you prep the wood as instructed)

Minwax system finish:

Always apply in this order (top first):

1. Wood conditioner (http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/preparation/minwax-water-based-prestain-wood-conditioner)

2. Water based wood stain (http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/stains/minwax-water-based-wood-stain)

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3. Polycrylic protective finish (http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/clear-protective-finishes/interior/minwax-polycrylic-protective-finish)

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Required Tools:• A saw capable of cutting angles, preferably a table saw.

• A drill; a drill press is great, a hand drill works just as good

• drill bit size 11/64

• 3/8 countersink

• 7/16 forstner bit (http://www.amazon.com/Steelex-D2847-Forstner-Bit-16-Inch/dp/B0000DD32P/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1421521447&sr=8-2&keywords=7%2F16+forstner)

• A bit capable of installing the screws in the t-nuts if necessary.• All the safety equipment any product recommends.• Tape measurer at least 12ft

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Helpful tools:• Drill angle guide, makes drilling angle and complex holes so much easier.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/General-Tools-Drill-Guide-and-Chuck-36-37/100349264?keyword=angle+drill+guide

• Power sander, (damaging you shoulder making a climbing volume seems kind of silly.)

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ryobi-2-Amp-1-4-Sheet-Sander-Green-S652DGK/205179523?N=5yc1vZc29d

• Countersink drill bit

http://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-8-Countersink-with-11-64-in-High-Speed-Steel-Drill-Bit-DW2568/202579925

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Estimated cost breakdown:Rounded up and not including more expensive power tools.

¾ in x 4ft x 8ft plywood 50$

1in x1in x 36in 6$ x 6 = 36$

#8 2in wood screws 4$

#8 1.25in wood screws 8$

Tiebond III Glue 8$

Drill bit size 11/64 with countersink 12$

3/8 countersink 5$

7/16 forstner bit 6$

All the safety equipment any product recommends.

Safety glasses 3$

Eye surgery 5000$ min (Use safety classes)

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Credits:Design by: Jace W.

Special thanks to :

Carolyn L Jason L Karynne C

and

http://climbingholdreview.blogspot.com/

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Contact US

Have A comment? An idea? Want to buy a pre cut volume or have one designed?

Feel free to send feedback, comments, questions, or requests to:

BigDealVolumes@gmail.com

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This manual is published by Big Deal Volumes as part of the DIY collection.

More to come. From MT. With love.

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