10 Mixologists

7/29/2019 10 Mixologists

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New York and San Francisco might be

the hubs of todays most excitingmixology trends but its New Orleans,

birthplace of the classic Sazerac, which has a rich,

illustrious cocktail history unlike any other. It was fitting,

then, that for this years annual 10 Mixologists to Watchfeature, The Beverage Network headed to this fabled city

and tapped into the talent of the 2009 Tales of the Cocktail

apprentice crew. From this group of enthusiastic talents, we

chose 10 from around the country who we are confident will

help revolutionize the art of mixolgy in the years to come.

10


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Which ingredients are you especially

having fun with right now?

Im going through a Genever phase and

Im having a lot of fun with flowers such

as fresh orange blossoms, lavender and

jasmine . One can do so much with f low-

ers, whether its muddling, syrups or

even infusions.

How did you first get bitten by the

bartending gig?

While living in Brooklyn, NY, I worked at a

small restaurant, Jack the Horse Tavern.

The bartender at the time, Damon Dyer,

was doing things with liquor that had nev-er crossed my mind. While watching him

behind the stick I learned many of the ba-

sics, but it was not until he let me borrow

some books from his collectionThe Joy

of Mixology, Vintage Spirits and Forgotten

Cocktails, Intoxica that I really became

enamored with booze.

Bartender. Mixologist. Bar chef.

Which one are you?

When Playboy has their own Playboy

Playmate Mixologist, I think that the

name loses some of its credibility. Lets

jus t say when Im beh ind the bar, Im

a bartender, and when Im outside of

work, Im a cocktail nerd.

What is it about Barrios beverage

program that makes it so distinctive?

There is nothing like it in Tucson; the at-

tention to quality and detail is unsurpassed.

We try to make everything homemade as

we legally can, from the syrups to the infu-

sions. The difference is passion and knowl-

edge. Most bars in town are lacking both.

The sad fact is most bartenders in Tucson,

for example, dont know how or when toproperly stir a drink. The majority of bar-

tenders just dont care.

How did living in Brooklyn help hone

your craft?

I consider New York to be the center of the

cocktail world with the likes of Pegu Club,

PDT, and my personal favorite, Death & Co.

I lived about a 30 minute train ride from

some of the best bars in the world, and at

the age of 21, these were the bars that re-

ally influenced me.

Given that youre in Tucson, do you

notice that most of your customers

dig Tequila?

Theres something about Tucson that makes

people feel like its their duty to drink Te-

quila, which is a good thing in my opinion

because I love mixing with the spirit. I tendto focus on Tequila for this very reason.

1CIARAN WIESEBarrio Food & Drink, Tucson, Arizona

For some, bartending is old hat:

Daniel Eun was head bartender at Jim

Meehans esteemed PDT in NYC before

heading back to his native L.A.; Brooks

Reitz made a name for himself leading

the cocktail program at Proof on Main

at the 21C Hotel in Louisville, KY; a

bartending stint in London sealed the

deal for Ashley Greene, leading her toNYCs Tailor to work under one of the

countrys foremost creative cocktail ge-

niuses, Eben Freeman.

For others, bartending was seren-

dipity: Franky Marshall, a profession-

ally trained singer, thought her future at

the Clover Club in Brooklyn, NY, was

as cocktail server, not behind the bar

with Julie Reiner. It was also in Brook-

lyn where Ciaran Wiese of Tucson, AZ,

worked at a small neighborhood restaurant and had a cocktail

epiphany watching his colleague do magical things behind the bar.

Hillary Joy Choo was accustomed to showing off bottles of liquor as

a brand model rather than the creations she now serves up in Miami

at the Plunge at the Gansevoort Hotel.

Several would cross other pursuits

off their list before picking up a cocktail

shaker: Nicholas Jarrett studied the clas-

sics, studio art and neuropsychology and

then discovered they actually served as a

brilliant foundation for making cocktails;

New Orleans own Maksym Pazuniak

jumped ship from his financial job in

NYC to pursue a bartending career andfound himself at Cure, where he joined

forces with a fellow bartender and pub-

lished a cocktail guide.

The kitchen led to a direct route to the

bar for a few: Corey Bunnewith trained at

the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde

Park, NY, banking on a career in baking;

Mike Ryan was an avant garde sous chef at

Chicagos molecular-driven Moto, under

the tutelage of Chef Homaru Cantu.

Throughout the next few pages youll meet these forward-think-

ing bartenders against the backdrop of the French Quarters historic

Napoleon House, where the Pimms Cup has been elevated to an art

formand the romance and determination of past cocktail eras will

surely inspire the bold libations of tomorrow.

History and Pimms Cups served up at the

French Quarters Napoleon House


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having fun with right now?

I love bitter liqueurs: Cynar, Aperol, Campari.I could drink them all day long and I love the

depth they add to a cocktail.


bartending bug?

In college I had a small catering business witha friend and we would bartend small parties

at peoples homes making very simple mixeddrinks with only five basic spirits. It really took

off for me when I visited Milk & Honey andPegu Club on a trip to New York. The crafts-

manship and pride in the cocktail was roman-

tic and contagious.

How would you describe your customers?

Every customer expects a cocktail list to be

part of the package these days, and thosethat seek one are usually willing to try a cock-

tail out of their comfort zone. As a bartenderthats fun, especially when they are curious

about new products and new techniques. Butfor every adventurous drinker there is one

who knows exactly what they want and howmany ice cubes. I love both customers for

different reasons.

What are the three most important

skills a bartender needs to besuccessful today?

1. A care and concern for the customer is

paramount. At the end of the day we are inthe business of hospitality and embracing our

customers keeps food on the table. 2. An in-satiable curiosity to continuously learn and im-

prove. 3. A developed sense of good business

practices. There are a lot of fantastic bartend-ers in the states that want to open a bar of

their own but dont know how to write a budget,price a cocktail or order product wisely.

There is so much competition out there

in terms of brands. When stocking your

bar, how do you decide which new ones

to feature?

For me its always about the quality of the

product. Just as I would never want to workfor a chef that would put a second rate to-

mato on a plate, so would I hope I never offera spirit that I am not behind 100%.

Hotel bars were once stuffy and conventional

and now theyre becoming glamorous

again thanks to hotspots like Proof on

Main at the 21C where you used to work.Why the change?

At Proof we set out to make a great restaurant,

not a great hotel restaurant. I think that is themost important thing: Does this place have its

own identity? Do we take the experience seri-ously? Are we proud of what we are creating in

the kitchen and bar? The answer must be yes.

10 2BROOKS REITZ

Fig, Charleston, SC and consultant for21C Museum Hotel Group, Louisville, KY

What is the most popular cocktail youre

making these days?

One thats ordered a lot lately and with

good reason is Tom Bullocks Horse Thief

CocktailOld Tom gin, sweet vermouth, two

dashes of absinthe and a fresh lemon twist.Its simple and delicious.


bartending bug?

I started out working in the business as a

server and chose bartending because I want-ed to learn more. I really liked the idea of cre-

ating a beverage someone enjoys. It startedout as a fun and relatively easy job. Now its

still fun, but its also a real challenge. I learnsomething new every day I go to work, and

thats both humbling and exciting.


Our guests are definitely curious about our

cocktails and want to try something new.Often they come in because theyve heard

about the place, know what the concept is

and are looking for a certain type of experi-

ence. There are definitely those people who

want something very basic, that they couldget anywhere else, and its a great feeling to

introduce them to one of our specialties, havethem love it, then order another.

What are the trends youre noticing

among your customers?

People want to steer clear of sweet these

days. It seems their palates have been as-saulted by syrupy, processed cocktails that

are offered in many establishments, andtheyre tired of that. They know now they can

be more demanding and enjoy a superiorproduct if they go to the right places.

When youre not at the bar, where are

you imbibing?

Usually on my nights off I love to go out for a

good meal. For me, nothing goes better with

great food than a glassokay, more likely a

bottleof good wine or Champagne.

You have one of the most enviable

bartending positions in the country:

you work for the great Julie Reiner.

What is that like? You must be getting an

amazing education.

Its so true. Julie is very approachable when it

comes to discussing spirits, trends, techniqueand operations. She is very generous withher knowledge and always encourages us to

learn and broaden our horizons. Because ofher background, experience, honesty and tal-

ent, shes a wonderful person to learn from.

3FRANKY MARSHALLClover Club, Brooklyn, NY


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having fun working with right now?

Im taking advantage of the abundance offresh produce out here. There was definitely

a moment of culture shock when I first movedto New York and learned that fruits had sea-

sons and fresh berries couldnt be had in thewinter. Im glad that I can get my blackberries

whenever I want now.

How many different bottles do you have

on the back bar?

At The Varnish we have about 90 bottles be-hind us. My personal collection has shrunk

by quite a bit as I could only fit 25 bottles in

my luggage on the way over from New York. Istill cant believe they all survived the trip.

How did you first get bitten by thebartending bug?

I was always a bartender since I can re-

member. House parties, dorm parties, bar-beques if there were drinks to be mixed,

I was the one mixing them. I couldnt evendrink just one soda as a kid. I had to cus-

tomize my own by using all the beverages in

the soda fountain.

There is so much competition out there

in terms of brands. When stocking your

bar, how do you decide which new ones

to feature?

Of course I would like to stock 100 different

whiskeys and 100 different Tequilas and allthe rum in the world but since thats not hap-

pening, every bottle in the well or on the backbar needs to serve a purpose. To get onto the

back bar another bottle must come down. Thenew product either needs to fill the purpose of

the product its replacing or be so awesomethat my old need is rendered obsolete.

It seems like L.A. is really boosting its

number of quality cocktail bars. Do youthink the tide is turning for the city?

L.A.s cocktail game has definitely grownmuch stronger. Where even five years ago

people were at a loss as to where to find aquality cocktail, its now completely possible

to be at a different cocktail bar every day of

the week. But I have to stick up for my home-town a little bit. L.A. never hurt for food anddrink options; what it lacked were the high-

profile restaurants and bars. There is no cityin America that can touch what L.A. has in

terms of ethnic-authentic food. And let us notforget where the Tiki movement started.



Im personally a big fan of vinegars; I love thecontrast between sour and sweet that you

can get by using them in a cocktail.


bartending bug?

My first bartending job was in a pub in Lon-don when I was 21. That was where I first

learned the art of bartendingnot the actual

skill of making cocktails but a way of relatingto your customers from behind the bar. And

I realized that I was actually good at it. Ivebeen bartending ever since.

What are the trends youre seeing among

your customers?

The trends in New York change so quickly, espe-

cially with cocktail aficionados. Id say the big-gest that Im seeing right now is the Old-Fash-

ioned, which probably has something to do withthe fact the characters on Mad Men drink them.

I appreciate the trend, though, because there areso many little variations you can put on an Old

Fashioned, and Im constantly tinkering.

There is so much competition out

there in terms of brands. When

stocking your bar, how do you decide

which new ones to feature?

All it really takes is for a product to be good

and to offer a taste or quality that I cant get

from another brand. And, although I appre-ciate beautifully designed bottles, its a real

killer when a bottle is impossible to pick upand pour comfortably.

At Tailor you worked for the ingenious

cocktail dynamo, Eben Freeman. Did

you find yourself getting more creative

as a result?

Working with Eben was immensely encouragingfor me because I am a person who likes to push

boundaries and do things my own way, and sois he. No matter how crazy the idea, the answer

was never No, thats not good. It was alwaysLets try to make this work. But, although I love

doing things out of the ordinary, I also believethat you have to know the rules before you break

them, and Eben really helped me develop myknowledge of classic bartending and mixology.

As a female mixologist, have there been

challenges to making a name for yourself

in a male-dominated profession?

Theres a very specific tone that you have toachieve because its very easy for people to to-

tally discredit you for just being a woman. Likeany male-dominated profession, I think that

women have to work twice as hard to be takenseriously, but that makes it twice as more sat-

isfying when you actually get respect.

4DANIEL EUNThe Varnish, Los Angeles, CA10

5 ASHLEY GREENEFreemans and The Standard Hotel, New York, NY


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Always amaros and herbal liqueurs. Theres

such an enormous variety available, and sub-tle variations are magnified by the chill and

alcohol content of a good aromatic cocktail.


bartending bug?

I remember at a very early age climbing up

onto a bathroom counter and experimenting

with my mothers perfumes in little cups to seehow I could mix the scents together.

Bartender. Mixologist. Bar Chef. Which

one are you?

Bartender. Im proud to tend bar, and while itis my job to practice mixology while tending

bar, bartending is so much more than that. Itsa noble profession that blends entertainment,

diplomacy, business-savvy, psychology, de-ductive thinking, social networking, attention

to detail, crisis management and intuition.

When a brand ambassador or sales

rep hits you up with their newest

products, what will it take for you to

put it on the back bar?

I think the key is knowledge, excitement and

modulating their pitch to the environmenttheyre trying to get their product into. I want

to learn something new from people whosejob it is to specialize in one product. There

are few things that disappoint me more than

someone who doesnt know the informationabout the product theyre trying to sell.

Youre an intellectual guy, having studied the

classics, studio art and neuropsychology

in the past. Luckily, making cocktails is as

much a science as it is an art. How do you

think your unique background has helped

influence your craft?

My background in classical studies grounded

me as to the importance of the history andnarrative of bartending. Studio art left me with

an appreciation of when ostentation is calledfor and when restraint is the right thing. As

for neuropsychology, well, theres a scienceto flavor and to what alcohol is doing to the

drinker. Understanding a things context, itsaesthetics and its mechanics leaves you in a

position to really begin to play.

Who do you credit for having helped mold

you into the bartender you are today?

John Desimone and Gary Regan. I trained underJohn at my first professional bartending gig. The

gent was a pro and the consummate bartender,whipped up one hell of a drink and had the whole

thing down pat. And Gary? He is a bartendersbartender, no doubts about it. His Cocktails in

the Country program really opened my eyes to a

great many things about this business.



I grow an herb garden at my home and I likeexperimenting with thyme, rosemary and basil.


bartending bug?

I have always had a love for cooking and

baking and mixing drinks. During summerbarbeques Id stay in the kitchen and make

up batches of Margaritas, Mai Tais and Caipir-inhas. I was big into the tropical drinks and

made them from scratch.

What are the trends youre seeing among

your customers?

Vodka is still the most commonly ordered spirit.However, Tequila does quite a bit of business as

well. People tend to not be very educated aboutproducts and ingredients, so rather than seek-

ing out specifics they are generally more inter-ested in suggestions and recommendations.

What are the three most important

skills a bartender needs to be

successful today?

Desire and passion are most important. Al-

though a drink can still be good without loveand care, a carefully made drink, especially

in front of the customer, is like none other.Practice is also extremely important. I taste

most of the cocktails I make, especially if Iinvented it on the spot. Every time, even if

its a classic, I feel like I learn something newabout proportions and the way ingredients

blend together.

Youre in Miami, a city where style may

sometimes get emphasized more than

substance. Some bars get away with

making quick drinks and charging a lot

for them. How do you get guests to

realize that Plunge is the real thing?

When I charge someone $17 for a Mojito, I

want them to feel as if they are drinking ona beautiful Miami Beach rooftop. I use onlyfresh ingredients, squeeze lime juice on the

spot, focus and shake hard. I show the labelsof what Im using so they know they are get-

ting high-end spirits. And when they get thedrink, they see its nicely made and they taste

the quality. Nobody complains.

What are your thoughts on Miamis bar

scene in general? Do you think its

changing?

People are starting to tire of the bottle serviceand the drinks with Red Bull; they are start-

ing to become a little more refined. Mixologybars are popping up and bartenders are get-

ting more into it. Its wonderful.

6HILLARY JOY CHOOPlunge, Miami, FL10

7NICHOLASJARRETT

Franklin Mortgage & Investment Co.,Philadelphia, PA and Pranna, New York, NY


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Ive started getting into Eau de Vies recently.I really like the subtle fruit vibe that you get

from a well-made spirit they are complex

and flavorful without the benefit of aging, andare challenging to work with.

Whats the most popular cocktail youve

been making these days?

I get really bored making the same cocktail a

lot, so its hard to say what the most popularone is right now. An original that Ive been

making a lot of is The Clermeil, made withrum, Green Chartreuse, lime, maple syrup and

Allspice Dram. People seem to like this one.


bartending bug?I always enjoyed watching bartenders work,either at a dive bar or cocktail bar. The ef-

ficiency of movement, the command of theroom, the artistry of making a drink was al-

ways fun to watch, and was always something

that I was interested in.

Bartender. Mixologist. Bar chef. Which

one are you?

Im a bartender. My job is to serve drinks andmake people happy.


Our customers at Cure are all over the mapin terms of cocktail literacy. Many order off

the menu, and many know what they want theminute they step inside. A significant handful

just ask us to make them something delicioususing a specific spirit or theme.

You work in one of the most dynamic,

historic cocktail cities in America. What is it

about New Orleans that is so special to you?

People have different priorities here. Its notabout how big of a condo you have or what

kind of car you drive; its about celebratingyour culture and having a good time.

Are you glad you went through the

Beverage Alcohol Resource program?

I wouldnt be here if it wasnt for BAR. For me,

it was about gaining a solid base of knowl-edge regarding distillation, spirit categories,technique and recipes. From that base Ive

been able to tweak and study and find myown style and form my own opinions.

8MAKSYM PAZUNIAKCure, New Orleans, LA10



I have been on a major run with native cor-dials of Barbados, West Indies and Mexico.

Products like John D. Taylors Velvet Fal-ernum, St. Elizabeths Allspice Dram and

DAristi Xtabentun. Especially since I am ahuge rum enthusiast, these have so much

mixing potential.

How many different bottles do you haveon the back bar?

Well, I hate to disappoint but I love to intrigue.

We have no back bar at Drink. We have cabi-nets, we have wells, we have lowboy refrig-

erators and a liquor room. But back bar? No.We arent here to advertise and we arent here

to limit. Come in with an open mind, knowingand feeling what you want, and ask for it. I

dont think well disappoint you.


bartending bug?

I went to culinary school and it was my thought

that the kitchen was where I belonged. Butwhen I was 17, I got my first taste workingbehind a bar and there was just this allure:

the people, the wine, the spirits, the interac-tions between guests and bartender and the

making of the cocktail.

How would you describe your

customers?

I cant tell you how many times a guest hascome into our bar and said What do you do

here? and that, honestly, was never the in-tention. We make drinks. We are a bar. You

have a seat, tell me what you are in the mood

for and my aim is to make you happy withthe drink I craft for you. I think in general

our customers are becoming more and moreopen minded to the concept that what you

drink matters.

Some people still might connect Bostons

drinking scene with happy hour specials

and college kids. How has that image

transformed?

Its because of people like John Gertsen, Jack-

son Cannon and Misty Kalkofen that peoplestarted to open their minds to the opportunity

a bar holds. They made quality cocktails andtradition accessible. There is still opposition to

the fact that yes, you have to pay for qualityand yes, it takes time to make a drink or pour

a beer correctly, but in the end its worth it.Trust me when I say this is just the beginning

in Boston.

How has your varied backgroundwine,

bakinghelped amplify your skills as a

bartender?

When you reduce everything down, I think its

simple. The atmosphere and experience fromrestaurants like Balthazar in NYC, my time

spent at culinary school, my education in wineand time behind kitchen lines and bars reveal

common threads: tradition, leadership, tech-nique, flavors, textures, sights and sound. To

me, its a culture more than a well-executed

Negroni and beautiful loaf of sourdough.

9COREYBUNNEWITH

Drink, Boston, MA and consulting barmanager, The Cliffside, Nantucket, MA


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Holland-style ginespecially Anchors Genevieve

black rum, Pimms No. 1 and egregious amounts

of Angostura and Peychauds bitters.


bartending bug?

A combination of many things: my exposure tobartending at Moto, my experiments, successes

and failures at Otom and my experiences drink-ing at The Violet Hour, specifically the Art Of

Choke, a Cynar-based creation of fellow bar-tender Kyle Davidson. That cocktail, after ev-

erything I had gone through previously, openedmy eyes to the utterly unexpected and beautiful

flavor combinations that could be created withor without custom syrups, purees and bitters.

These days, whenever the conversation

turns to Chicago, usually its followed

by you HAVE to go to The Violet Hour.

How do you think the bar was able to

make such a name for itself?

One of the things I think helps us stand out is

our willingness to say no. We dont carry cran-berry juice, for example, so when someone

asks for a Cosmopolitan we can say no, withreason. Most bars stock what people want,

or think they want, so theres little chance for

someone to break out of their routine and dis-cover a new world of flavor.

At Moto you were a master at molecular

cocktails. How did you learn those

techniques? Molecular cocktails and

classic cocktails are night and day,

though. Is there room for both?

Getting involved in molecular cocktails for mewas simply an offshoot of my tutelage under Chef

Cantu. The techniques I learned were useful inadapting to the bar, but more important was the

viewpoint I developed: discard preconceptions

and look at everything as a method for delivery offlavor or aroma and taste. I do believe that thereis room for both classic and molecular cocktails

on any stage; as long as it makes sense.

Creating the food at The Violet Hour

also puts you in a unique position,

underscoring the larger trend of food and

cocktail pairing. Is this something you

encourage at Violet Hour?

Primarily my goal as chef at The Violet Hour is to

provide satiation. Secondarily my goal is to amuse

the guest and complement the cocktail program.Food-and-cocktail pairings are possible, and in-deed highly customizable, but from the perspec-

tive of a cocktail bar, should be looked at veryloosely indeed. For the most part I try to make the

food stand up tobut not exceed the tasteprofiles of the cocktails.

10MIKE RYANThe Violet Hour, Chicago, IL

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