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Master of Engineering Management (TE) Program
Department of Textile Engineering
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COURSE CONTENTS:
Course Introduction: Objectives, Methodology,Benefits
Textile Industry of Pakistan: An Overview
Apparel Manufacturing
Merchandising
Product Costing
Management
Supply Chain Management in Apparel Industry
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OBJECTIVES:
The objective of this Apparel & MerchandisingManagement course is to train participants on bestpractices in pre-production, apparel manufacturingand merchandising management.
This course will impart in-depth and practicalunderstanding of these processes through:
Knowledge of best practice processes
Processes in apparel sector
Information on international and regional trends Business communication and relationship management
skills
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METHODOLOGY:
This will be imparted through:
Classroom lectures Group discussions
Assignments
Presentations
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BENEFITS:
This course will enable to:
*Knowledge about Apparel Manufacturing processes & Management.
*Knowledge about Merchandising Management.
*Increase process velocity.
*Shorten product development cycle time.
*Reduce customer order processing time.
*Increase on time deliveries.
*Increase order fulfilment efficiency.
*Production planning and monitor orders throughout the order cycle.
*Effective material planning.
*Enhance communication skills with the buyer and vendors.
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Pakistan & Global Textile:
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Overview of Textile Industry:
Spinning
Weaving
Knitting
ProcessingGarment Manufacturing
Spinning
Weaving
Knitting
ProcessingApparel
ManufacturingProcess Map
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Spinning:
Total Spinning Units 408 Units
Total No. of Installed Spindles
Ring Spindles 10 Million
Rotor Spindles 0.15 Million
Total Yarn Production 2.5 Million Metric-Tons Total Yarn Exports 83 Billion PKR
Source: BOI
Process Map
Blow Room Carding Drawing
Simplex Ring AutoCone
Rotor
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Weaving:
Total Weaving Units 549 Units Total Installed Weaving Machines
Shuttlless Machines 30,000
Power Looms 2,75,000
Total Production 8 Billion Sq. Mtrs
Total Fabric Exports 126 Billion PKR
Warping Sizing Weaving Grading
Process Map
Source: BOI
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Knitting:
Total Knitwear Units 1200
Total Installed Knitwear Machines 18000
Total Knitwear Production 89 million Dozen
Total Knitwear Exports 105 Billion PKR
Knitting
Yarn
Dyeing
Process Map
Source: BOI
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Processing:
Total Processing Units 750
Total Dyed and Printed Fabric Production 4 Billion Sq. Mtrs.
Total Processed Fabric Exported 41.8 Billion PKR
Process Map
Desizing Scouring Bleaching
Knit
Fabric
Dyeing Printing
Scouring Bleaching Dyeing
Woven
Fabric
Source: BOI
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Apparels:
Total No. of Units 5000
Total Installed Machines 7,50,000
Total Apparel Production 700 Million Pcs
Cutting StitchingGarment
Finishing
Process Map
Source: BOI
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Apparel / Made-ups Statistics:
Units 5000 Cottage Units 80%
Industrial Units 20%
Installed Machines 750,000
Cottage Machines 450,000
Industrial Machines 300,000
Woven Garments Production 56 M Doz.
Knitted Garment Production 89 M Doz. (Capacity 110 M Doz.)
Made-up Production (Incl. Home Textiles, bed-ware, towel)
Export Trend (Category-wise)
Cutting StitchingGarment
Finishing
Process Map
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APPAREL: Definition
To dress or clothe or cover
To adorn or embellish.
Any article of clothing. (Garment)
An outer covering or outward appearance.
Anything that decorates or covers.
Clothing, especially outerwear; garments; attire; raiment
Superficial appearance; aspect; guise.
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* The garment production processing steps and techniques involved inthe manufacturing garments for the large scale of production inindustrial basis for business purposes is called garmentsmanufacturing technology. Garments factories are classifiedaccording to their product types are as follows:
1. Woven Garment Factory.2. Knit Garments factory
* Sewing apparel products has always been and remains a labor-intensive activity while textile production has been a capital-intensiveindustry
* Apparel manufacturing depends much less on capital investment andmore on the skill of the individual workers in the sequence ofoperations required in apparel production.
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APPAREL MANUFACTURING PROCESSES:
Stepwise garments manufacturing sequence on industrial basis is given below:
Design / Sketch
Pattern Design
Sample Making
Production Pattern
Pattern Grading
Lay Planning
Marker Making Spreading
Cutting
Sorting/Bundling
Sewing/Assembling
Cropping
Inspection
Pressing/ Finishing Final Inspection
Packing
Despatch
This is the Basic Production Flowchart of a Garment. In advance some of theprocess can be added or removed.
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Here is a brief discussion of every process steps of Garments & Apparel Manufacturing Technology:- Design or Sketch: Before making an apparel of garments we must have to design or sketch the appearance
completely. It helps us at the further process to monitor the manufacturing faults and process shortage.
Pattern Design: Every piece of Apparel or Garment is built upon a pattern. The pattern is made by the standardsizes of Men and Women. We must have to make pattern to follow while manufacturing a garment product. It savestime and increase the rate of accuracy of making.
Sample Making: Before going for a bulk production; its a smart step to make a complete sample of the desiredapparel. After making the sample if the production manager thinks that this okey; then the further bulk apparel orgarment production is to be carried out by following the exact size and quality of that sample.
Production Pattern:After making the cloth sample; its wise to make a production sample that will be hanged out in
front of every labor that are recruited to make this clothing eventually. Grading: Grading is done in order to grade various sizes of garment in separate place so that it would be easier to
inspection and maintain the export works at last.
Marker Making: Market making is the process to sketch on fabric before cutting it. Market is to be in standard sizerequired by the buyers.
Spreading:After making a market; we have to spread the whole fabric over the spreading table in order to putMarker and pattern over it.
Cutting: After successfully spread the fabric and putting all the marks and sketch by the marker; this is the time tocut the fabrics according to design.
Shorting & Bundling: Some shorting task is done in order to list the same number of parts in a separate place.
Sewing & Assembling: Each of the parts of a clothing should be sewed or assembled in order to make a completeapparel that are wearable.
Inspection: In this step of garment manufacturing process each of the complete apparel or garment is to bechecked and recheked. If any faults is found; then the whole process should be repeated.
Pressing or Finishing: After making an apparel it is to be pressed by the Compressed Machine in order to bring it inbale form for export.
Packing: After making a bale of these garment clothing; Packing is done!
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MERCHANDISING: Definition
The word MERCHANDISING evolves from
Merchandise (meaning: the commodities and goods
that are bought and sold in business)
Merchandising is a function resulting in sale and
purchase of goods at the agreed price, at the agreed
date and of the agreed quality.
Merchandising function involves all activities directly
or indirectly linked with procuring and selling of
goods, planning and monitoring.
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Apparel Merchandising:
Apparel Merchandising is all about costing of apparels,selecting and ordering latest trendy materials, styles, sizesand overall apparel specifications to the manufacturersaccording to the main buyers requirement. The people whomanage this whole apparel merchandising process is called
apparel merchandiser.
Apparel merchandising is a process to create acommunication bridge with the buyer and manufacturers. Inthe fashion and apparel world; Merchandiser plays very
important role and most of the fashion and apparel buyinghouse slightly dependent upon those apparelmerchandisers.
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What is a Merchandiser expected to do?
A Merchandiser is expected to perform the following roles andresponsibilities:
All communication, information flow throughout the order cycle (with buyers & withdepartments within the company and vendors) from receipt of order to finalshipping of goods.
Costing negotiations (with buyers and vendors).
Detailed production planning and monitoring (i.e. preparing Time & Action
calendar closure of T&A with buyer and vendor). Approvals on fabrics and accessories.
Order tracking and monitoring ON TIME shipment status
Monitoring material utilization for every order.
Ensuring all products meet the specified testing parameters as laid down by thebuyer / customer.
Approval on fabric quality, color, shade banding and also approval on trims. Coordination between various departments (such as fabrics, sampling, purchase,
production, quality assurance and logistics) for smooth execution and timelydelivery of orders.
Capacity planning for the season (in coordination with the productiondepartments)
In some cases merchandisers are expected to supervise design and development
activities as part of the account management of strategic customers.
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Apparel Merchandising Tasks:
The tasks of an apparel merchandising section dependsupon the type of garments or apparel houses own thissection and what these fashion houses ultimate goal is. But,whether these buying house uses this merchandisingsection; there are still some common works that are doneby the team of Apparel Merchandising. Here are some ofthese tasks that will convey clear concepts to the
enthusiasts like you who were desperately trying to knowwhat is apparel merchandising and how the system works: Predicting upcoming fashion trends and implementing it at new apparel manufacturing
projects.
Adding cutting-edge textiles apparels and clothing into the stores.
Ordering certain quality of fabrics along with required sizes, colors and shapes.
Making costing plans for a new design.
Costing for a new style and fabrics along with the accessories and manufacturing costsinvolved.
Analyzing the market to know where to manufacture the next apparel to save cost.
Building correspondence with buyers and the manufacturers.
Pressuring the manufacturing industries to deliver a product in time.
Suggesting the manufacturers about the quality and styles and sent proposals to modifyanything if required.
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Apparel Merchandising Jobs:
Apparel Merchandisers usually have a verylucrative and gorgeous career these days. As thefashion house and apparel fashion costingpersonnel is highly demanding in the industry; amerchandiser can easily get into this kind of
arena with a smart salary. Some of the popularapparel merchandising jobs are found in:-
Textiles and Apparel Industry.
Apparel Buying House.
Fashion House.
Fashion Consultation Firm.
Apparel Import and Export Firm.
Apparel Designing & Purchasing Company and so on.
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Merchandising Process Flow:
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Cost of Article:
Fabric
Thread
Trims
Labor
Business overhead
Profit
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Costing include:
Purchase of raw materialsAccessories,
Fabrics forming
Processing and finishing of fabricsSewing
Packing of garments
Transport and conveyance
Shipping Over heads
Banking charges & commissions
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1. Fabric consumption.2. Gross weight of other components of
garment.
3. Fabric cost .
4. Fabric cost per garment.
5. Other charges (print, embroidery, etc.)
6. Cost of trims (labels, tags, badges, twill tapes,buttons, bows, etc.)
7. CMT charges
8. Cost of accessories (hangers, inner boards,polybags, cartons, etc)
9. Cost of a garment.
Price of a Garment:
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1-3
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Management Key Concepts:
Organizations: People workingtogether and coordinating theiractions to achieve specific goals.
Goal: A desired future condition thatthe organization seeks to achieve.
Management: The process of usingorganizational resources to achieve
the organizations goals by... Planning, Organizing, Leading, and
Controlling
1 3
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Additional Key Concepts:
Resources are organizational assets and include: People, Machinery, Raw materials, Information, skills, Financial capital.
Managers are the people responsible for supervising theuse of an organizations resources to meet its goals.
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Four Functions of Management
PlanningChooseGoals
OrganizingWorkingtogether
LeadingCoordinate
ControllingMonitor & measure
Th L l f M t
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TopManagers
MiddleManagers
First-line Managers
Non-management
Three Levels of Management
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What Is Supply Chain Management (SCM)?
A set of approaches used to efficientlyintegrate
Suppliers
Manufacturers
Warehouses
Distribution centers
So that the product is produced anddistributed
In the right quantities
To the right locations
And at the right time
System-wide costs are minimized and
Service level requirements are satisfied
Plan Source Make Deliver Buy
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The Supply Chain Another View
Suppliers Manufacturers Warehouses &
Distribution Centers
Customers
Material Costs
Transportation
CostsTransportation
Costs Transportation
CostsInventory CostsManufacturing Costs
Plan Source Make Deliver Buy
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Apparel / Made-ups
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SWOT Analysis of Apparel / Made-ups:
Cotton fabric available (both knitted
and woven)
Raw material (Coarse count yarn)available for terry towel
Wider width processed fabric
available for bed-ware.
Known suppliers of bed-ware and
towels in the global market.
Strengths
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SWOT Analysis of Apparel / Made-ups
Supply side Constraints
According to World Bank Report 2006, Pakistan productivity
is 37 on a scale of 100 for China. India is 46.
Blended fabrics not locally produced in enough quantities
Lack of common R&D facility for fabric development and
design development
Production process inefficiencies and low labor productivities
Weaknesses
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SWOT Analysis of Knitwear
8
7.4
6.8
6.2
5.6
5.4
5.2
5
4.6
4.2
3.8
3.4
0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
Machinery
Quality of finished products
Lay-out of producing sections
Ratio of indirect personnel
Work methods
Sewing section productivity
Quality control efficiency
Organization of producing sections
Finishing section productivity
Balancing in sewing and finishing
Middle managment training
Cutting room productivity
Weaknesses
A Study by WERNER shows following deficiencies in knitwear
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Skill training is of short duration and cost effective
Increased demand for quality fabric has the potential to pull
the total value chain, out of its current mediocrity. Technical textiles is a niche area yet untapped.
Globally apparel manufacturing (Sewing, Stitching and
Cutting) attract women workforce with 90% women share.
Value of currency is changing in India and China to ouradvantage.
Women wear production has not yet been tapped in
Pakistan.
SWOT Analysis of Apparel / Made-ups
Opportunities