007 Capitulo 7
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ADDED FULLNESS 133
ADDED FULLNESS: PRINCIPLE #2Principle. To increase fullness in a garment to an amount greater than the dart excess provides, the lengthand/or width within the pattern’s frame must be increased by slashing and spreading where fullness is needed.
Corollary. Adding to the outside of the pattern’s frame increases the amount of fabric in a garment and can
change the silhouette.
One-sided fullness. One side of a pattern is spreadto increase fullness, forming an arc shape at the topand bottom.
Unequal fullness. One side of the pattern isspread more than the other, forming an arc shape at
the top and bottom.
One-sided
fullness
Equal
fullness
Unequal
fullness
Compare the silhouette differences between thedesign and the basic garment when adding fullness.
Three Types of Added FullnessTo add fullness, the working pattern is increased inone of three ways:
Equal fullness. Opposite sides of a pattern arespread equally, increasing fullness to topandbottom.
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134 Chapter 7
Figure 1
Figure 2
Figure 3
Identifying Added FullnessFullness from the basic dart is always directed to thebust. Therefore, designs can be identified as havingadded fullness if fullness passes through the lengthor width of the garment (Figure 1), when fullness is
directed away from the bust (Figure 2), and when thegarment extends beyond the outline of the figure(Figure 3). Fullness may appear in the form of gath-ers, pleats, drape, cowls, or flares. Fullness can be onthe horizontal or vertical, or at an angle, and can bedeveloped as equal, unequal, or one-sided fullness.The dart may become part of added fullness whenneeded.
Added fullness may be combined with Dart Ma-nipulation (Principle #1) and Contouring (Principle#3). (Examples of this will be illustrated throughoutthe text.)
The patternmaker determines the type of full-ness required by the way the sketch is rendered.When the patternmaker is unsure of the designer’sintent, it is best to ask before developing the pattern.
Method for Plotting the Pattern
for Added Fullness
Added fullness is plotted as a series of straight slashlines drawn across the pattern in the direction thefullness appears on the design (horizontally, verti-cally, or on an angle). When preparing the pattern,
the beginning and end of each slash line depend onwhere the fullness begins and ends on the design.The dart excess is often absorbed into the addedfullness.
Formula for Adding Fullness
To determine the amount of added fullness desired,give consideration to the fabric type. Light-weightand loosely woven fabrics (cottons and chiffons, forexample) may require more fullness than bulky,closely woven fabrics. Using a 26-inch waist as an
example, added fullness may equal:
• One and one-half times the measurement (26 13 39)
• Two times the measurement (26 26 52)
• Two and one-half times the measurement (26 26 13 65)
To help train the eye in visualizing differentamounts of fullness, make examples, using 10 inchesas the measure to be increased. Follow the formulafor each example. The finished length of each sam-
ple should be 10 inches. Save the examples for usewhen determining fullness.
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ADDED FULLNESS 135
PrincessFront
PrincessSide Front
C ent er f r ont
Slash 1 1
2 2
3 3
4 4
Slash
Slash Slash
Slash Slash
Figure 1
Fullness on the Princess Line
Design Analysis: Design 1
The princess is gathered on each side of stylelinefrom waist to under bust and at front side seam, in-dicating parallel fullness. Design 2 is for practice.
Pattern Plot and Manipulation
Figure 1• Trace front andside front princess panels. Include
grainline. The basic back is not illustrated.
• Draw slash lines where the gathers indicate.Number each section and cut from paper.
Figures 2,3• Draw grain guidelines on paper.
• Cut through slash lines separating patterns.
• Place cut pattern parts on paper with center fronton fold. Match grainline of pattern with guide-
line. Spread equally using the ratio 1 1/2:1 or 2:1(shaded area). Secure pattern parts.
• Trace outline of pattern and blend styleline.Draw grainline and complete for test fit.
Design 2 Design 1
FRONT
G ui d el i n
e
1
2
3
4
Paper
Figure 2
SIDE FRONT
1
2
3
4
G
ui d el i n e
Figure 3
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ADDED FULLNESS 137
Added Fullness to a Dart Leg
Design Analysis: Design 1
Analyze the design and plot of the patterns.
Pattern Plot and Manipulation
Figures 1a,b• Remove dart excess from shoulder.
• Plot the front and back design as indicated.
• Trim excess. Back-trim shoulder
Figure 2• Slash dart legs to bust point. Close waist dart.
• Dart leg is shaped to contour the bust.
• Cut pattern from paper. Draw slash lines.
Figure 3• Cut slash lines to, not through, side seam.• Spread a 2:1 ratio (trace and blend).
Design 1 Design 2
FRONT
3"
1"
1 1/4 "
X
Trim
Measure
to securegathers
Figure 1a
1/4 "
Trim
BACK
1 1/4 "3 "
Figure 1b
FRONT
1/2 "
1/2 "
Trim 1/4 "
Trim 1/4 "
Figure 2
FRONT
F o l d
Gathers
Figure 3
Design 3
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138 Chapter 7
Gathers on a Style Dart
Design Analysis: Design 1
The bust point is 1 inch from the original location.The gathers are directed away from the bust (one-sided added fullness). Design 2 is for practice.
Pattern Plot and ManipulationFigure 1• Trace front pattern and redraw curved dart leg
1 inch from bust point.
• Square a line from center front 3 1/2 inches upfrom bust level that equals bust span.
• From this point draw a curved dart leg to dartpoint, and to the shoulder 1 1/4 inch from neck.
• Extend shoulder 1 1/4 inch and draw a curve linepassing through mid-armhole to the styleline.
• Draw slash lines and trim shaded area of theneckline.
Figure 2• Cut style dart to shifted bust point and close waist
dart. (One dart leg will not meet the waistline.)Blend waist at the finish of the pattern.
• Cut slash lines to, not through, shoulder.
• Spread slash lines to a ratio of 2:1.
Figure 3• Trace the back pattern. Draw and trim the neck-
line. Extend shoulder 1 1/4 inch.• Complete the patterns for a test fit.
Design 1 Design 2
Move1"
3 1/2 "
1 1/4 "
1 1/4 "
Trim
Figure 1
FRONT
F o l d
Close and blend
G a
t h e r s
Figure 2
1 1/4 "
1 1/4 "
1"ext.
3/4 "
BACK
Extend
Trim
Figure 3
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ADDED FULLNESS 139
Fullness to Insets
Design Analysis: Design 2
Gathers follow the edge of the inset band. Dart ex-cess (gathers) is directed to bust level. The remaininggathers indicate one-sided added fullness.
Pattern Plot and Manipulation
Figure 1• Trace front pattern.
• Draw inset band 1 1/2 inches wide.
• Draw three slash lines from bust to band 2 inchesup from center front. Notch.
• Draw other slash lines as indicated.
• Cut pattern from paper.
Figure 2• Cut inset band from pattern.
• Cut slash lines to, not through, pattern’s outlineor bust point. Close dart legs.
• Spread added fullness as desired.
• Trace and blend the spread area.
Figures 3a and bBack: Trace back and draw inset band.
• Extend 1 inch at center back.
• Separate patterns, draw grainline, mark notchesand complete the patterns for a test fit.
Design 1 Design 2
1 1/2"
2"
Figure 1
C u
t o
n f o l d
Close
F o l d
Blend
Band
Figure 2
BACK
1 1/2 "
Band
Figure 3a
BACK
B a n d
C ent er b a ck
1" extension
Figure 3b
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140 Chapter 7
Added Fullness Design VariationsThe practice designs are based on added fullness. Develop patterns for each design, or design other variationsfor practice. Which design requires an add-on for fullness? The finished garment should look like the design.If it does not, locate the problem and try again.
Pattern development for Design 3 may be viewed on the DVD, by page and design numbers.
Design 1
Design 3
Design 2
Design 4
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ADDED FULLNESS 141
BLOUSON FOUNDATIONA blouson is a billowy-topped garment with an overhang anywhere from below the bust to the ankle. Theblousing is controlled (held in place) by one of the following methods:
• Lining cut shorter than the finished length of the outer part (Design 3).
• Belt secures blouson to waist (Design 1).
• Casing accommodates elastic or drawstring (within the garment’s frame).
• A band, attached below the separate blouse measuring less than hip measurement (Design 2).
The blouson foundation is developed by adding length and width to the pattern within its frame and atits outline. This is an application of Principle #2, combined with manipulation of the existing dart excess(Principle #1). To determine the amount of length added for the overhang, add twice the amount desired. Forexample, for a 1 1/2-inch overhang, add 3 inches to the existing length.
Blouson Designs 1, 2, and 3 are but a few examples of this style. Design 1 illustrates modified fullness. In-cluded is a method for increasing fullness. Designs 2 and 3 are practice designs.
Design 1 Design 2 Design 3
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142 Chapter 7
Modified BlousonPattern Plot and Development
Figures 1 and 2• Trace front two-dart pattern and back.
• Measure down 1 1/2 inches or more from front
and back waistline. Draw a parallel line acrossthe hem for overhang, creating a blouson effect.
• Square up from hem to armhole.
• Measure out 1 1/2 inches or more at front andback side seams. Draw line from hem to armhole.To true side dart of front, fold dart and draw linefrom hem to armhole (see page 10).
• Complete pattern for test fit.
1 1/2 " for 3/4 " blouson
1" extension
BACKBLOUSON
FRONTBLOUSON
Figure 1 Figure 2
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Blouson with Increased FullnessPattern Plot and Manipulation
Figures 1 and 2• Trace front and back patterns. Include the back
horizontal balance line (HBL). Add to preferred
length.• Draw slash lines from front and back waist to ap-
proximately 3 inches up from armhole curve(Figure 1).
• Draw slash line from dart points of waist andshoulder darts to a joining point at the back HBL(Figure 2).
Figures 3 and 4• Cut slash lines to, not through, armhole (front)
and pivotal point (back).
• Close back shoulder dart.
• Place patterns on paper and spread slash sections
1 1/2 inches (varies). Secure pattern and trace.• Add 1 inch at the side seam of back pattern to
balance the fullness between back and front.
• Add desired length (example: 2 inches belowwaist for 1-inch overlay).
• Complete pattern for test fit.
ADDED FULLNESS 143
3 "
FRONT
S l a
s h
2 1/2 "
Figure 1
HBL S l a
s h
Pivotalpoint
S l a
s h
S l a
s h
3 "
1 1/2 "
Figure 2
FRONT
1 1 / 2 "
1 1/2"
Extend
length
Figure 3
BACK
1 "1 1/ 2 "
Close
1 1/2"
Extend
length
Figure 4