Onam, a harvest festival and the state festival of Kerala, is celebrated with great zeal and

conviviality by people from all walks of life in the state. The 10-day long popular festival is observed with all of its traditional trappings throughout the state, and in inventive and innovative ways by the large Kerala diaspora around the world.

Onam celebrations begin on Attham day, nine days prior to ‘Thiru Onam’, the tenth and most auspicious day of the festival. Thiru Onam falls in the Malayalam month of ‘Chingam’, the first month in the Malayalam calendar, which usually occurs around the August-September period.

Onam commemorates the mythological rule of an ideal king named Mahabali, whose reign was marked by a kingdom blessed with plenitude and equanimity among its people. Thiru Onam marks the day that King Mahabali returns to visit his subjects, and the people reciprocate by throwing a great welcome for their beloved king.

Traditional Onam celebrations include elaborate rituals that start with the drawing of an intricate design on the floor in front of the house, using a mixture of rice flour and water. This design is then overlaid with flowers to form a ‘pookkalam’. On the first day of Onam there would be a single circle

of flowers in the pookkalam, this circle would then grow larger as more rings of flowers were added on each day to culminate in 10 rings of flowers by Thiru Onam day.

Children armed with small baskets are tasked with gathering the flowers needed for the pookkalam from the fields and pathways around their homes. The women and children then join in laying out the flowers in the intricate, colorful patterns. Competitions are regularly organized in neighborhoods to determine the most beautiful and artistically designed pookalams.

On Thiru Onam day, men wear white ‘mundus’ with a gold colored

border while women don handloom sarees or set-mundus with gold colored borders and bedeck themselves in their finest jewelry. Most women from Kerala usually have one set of this traditional-wear stacked-away in their wardrobes for these special occasions.

In the afternoons and evenings of the nine days leading up to Thiru Onam and on Thiru Onam day, men and women participate in various traditional dances, including Thiruvathirakali

or Kayikottikali by women and Kummattikali by men wearing colorful masks. Pulikali is another dance form where men paint their bodies and faces in striped color of tigers and move in rhythm to music performed on percussion instruments such as the

chenda

and takil. Another cultural highlight of Onam celebrations is the annual Vallamkali (snake-boat) races that are

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Onam – the harvest festival of Kerala

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organized along some of the main waterways of the state. Long-boats of 30 to 40 meter length glide over the waters, powered by over a hundred oarsmen paddling in unison to songs led by the helmsman. It is indeed a sight worth waiting for during Onam festivities.

The annual Nehru Trophy snake boat race on the Punnamada Lake in Alappuzha, close to the time of the Onam festivals, has become a major tourist attraction of the state.

Central to the celebrations on Thiru Onam day is the ‘Ona sadya’ or Onam feast, which is traditionally served on banana leaf. Originally, the Ona Sadya menu comprised of over two dozen items that were served in a precise order and placed at specific places on the banana leaf. Preparations for the feast is an elaborate process that stretches over several days, with the womenfolk making pickles, savouries and sweets days in advance.Today, Onam is a state festival that highlights the secular fabric of the state, with people of all religions, castes and communities joining in the celebrations and participating in the numerous activities organized on the occasion.

Onam is increasingly becoming a community-based celebration

among the Kerala diaspora spread around the world. Keralites who are miles away from their native land during Onam, try to recreate the magic and color of the 10-day festival and to experience the spirit of the Kerala culture through community activities.

If you are living in a city that

has a sizeable Keralite population, then chances are you can find an association that is jointly organizing the festivities for the occasion. Relish the traditional Ona sadya or Onam banquet with other community members while wearing your Ona pudava (new clothes).

Cultural activities are a big part of Onam celebrations and community members engage in

Onam – the harvest festival of Kerala

various stage programs, including songs and traditional dances such as Thiruvathirakali by women and Pulikali by men.

Skits, mimicry, fancy dress, poetry recitation and Onam games such as Uriyadi keep audiences engaged until it is time for the traditional Onam banquet.

Ona sadya is a delicious vegetarian feast that includes rice, various curries, pickles, pappadoms,

plantain, banana chips and at least two payasams (desserts).

Another way that expat Keralites celebrate Onam is through philanthropic acts that help make a difference back home. By contributing to various charities, sponsoring Ona sadyas for the less privileged in society and providing for the education of poor children, Keralites rekindle their bonds with the people in their home state.

Celebrating Onam miles away from home

The story of King Mahabali who once ruled Kerala underpins Onam celebrations. The festival commemorates the reign of the legendary king and his return every year to visit his subjects during Onam.

The story goes that the state of Kerala was once ruled by an Asura (demon) king, Mahabali. The King was greatly respected in his kingdom and was considered to be wise, judicious and extremely generous. It is said that Kerala witnessed its golden era in the reign of King

Mahabali. Everybody was happy in the kingdom, there was no discrimination, crime, corruption, poverty, sorrow or disease in his reign, and everybody was happy and content. Looking at the growing popularity and fame of King Mahabali, Gods became extremely concerned and jealous. They felt threatened about their own supremacy and began to think of a strategy to get rid of the dilemma. To curb the growing popularity of Mahabali and maintain their own supremacy, Aditi, the mother of Gods sought out the help of Lord Vishnu (the preserver in the Hindu trinity) whom Mahabali worshiped.

It was said Mahabali was very generous and charitable. Whenever anybody approached him for help or requested for anything he always granted. To test the King, Lord Vishnu disguised himself as a dwarf and a poor Brahmin called Vamana. He came to the Kingdom of Mahabali, just after Mahabali performed his morning prayers and was preparing to grant boons to

Brahmins. Disguised as Vamana,

Vishnu said he was a poor Brahmin and asked for a piece of land. The generous King said, he could have as much

land as he wanted. The Brahmin said that he just

wanted as much land as could be covered by his three

steps. The King was surprised to hear but agreed.

A learned adviser of the King, Shukracharya sensed

that Vamana was not an ordinary person and warned the King against making the promise. But,

the generous King replied that it would be a sin for a King to go back on his words and asked

the Brahmin to take the land. The King could not imagine that the dwarf Brahmin was Lord Vishnu himself.

Just as King Mahabali agreed to grant the land, Vamana began to expand and eventually increased himself to the size of cosmic proportions. With his first step the Vamana covered the whole of earth and with the second step he covered the whole of the skies. He

30 August - 5 September, 2015www.timeskuwait.com 3

Honoring a legendary king

then asked King Mahabali to provide him with further space to place his third step.

The King realized that he was no ordinary Brahmin and his third step would destroy the earth. Mahabali with folded hands bowed before Vamana and asked him to place his last step on his head so that he could keep the promise.

The Brahmin placed his foot on the head of the King, which pushed him to patala, the nether world. There the King requested the Brahmin to reveal his true identity. Lord

Vishnu then appeared before the King in his person. The Lord told the King that he came to test him and the King won the test. King Mahabali was pleased to see his lord. Lord Vishnu also granted a boon to the King.

The King loved his kingdom and people so much that he requested that he be allowed to visit Kerala once in a year. Lord Vishnu was moved by the king’s nobility and was pleased to grant the wish.

He also blessed the King and said even after losing all his worldly possessions, the

King would always be loved by Lord Vishnu and his people.

It is the day of the visit of King Mahabali to Kerala that is celebrated as Onam every year, and is a tribute to the sacrifice of the great king.

Every year, people make elaborate preparations to welcome their king and try to please his spirit by showing that his people are happy and wish him well. The day of Thiru Onam is the biggest and the most important day of this festival.

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Onam sadya recipesTraditionally the Onam Sadya, or Onam banquet, had over two dozen food items served on a banana-leaf plate and was usually eaten while seated on

the floor on floor-mats weaved from coconut fronds. Try out these traditional Ona sadya dishes

Pulissery

Pulissery is an authentic Kerala recipe made with buttermilk

and ash gourd that produces a perfect blend of subtle flavors.

Ingredients:1 cup buttermilk or curd1 cup sliced ash gourd, chopped2 garlic pods2 shallots (small onions)1/2 tsp turmeric1/2 cup grated coconut1/2 tsp cumin seeds2 green chiili1/4 tsp red chilli powder2 red chillies1/4 tsp fenugreek1/2 tsp mustard2 sprig curry leaves2 tsp coconut oil1 cup waterSalt as required

Preparation:Blend grated coconut along with garlic, shallots, cumin seeds and green chilies into a fine paste. Keep it aside. Take a pan and add sliced ash gourd pieces in 3/4 cup of water and cook over a low flame.

Once the gourd is cooked well, add the grated coconut paste and curd to the mix. Leave it to simmer in a low flame. Turn off the stove when the curry is just brought to a boil. Make sure the curd does not boil more than a minute or two.

Heat coconut oil in a pan and add mustard seeds and fenugreek seeds. Just when they start spluttering, add red chilies and curry leaves. Finally, add turmeric powder and salt.

Sauté until it turns golden brown. For more spicy touch, add red chili powder. Now finally add this mix to the prepared pulissery. Stir it well. It is best served with hot rice.

Pachadi A fine blend of coconut, curd and cucumber combined with chilies and spices.

Ingredients:1/4 cup curd 1/2 tsp mustard seeds 3 to 4 whole red chillies 1 tsp green chillies 4 to 5 curry leaves

1/2 tsp chopped ginger 1 cup diced cucumber 2 tbsp coconut paste mixed with spices and mustard oil

Preparation:Heat oil in a pan and splutter some mustard seeds. Add green chilies, red chilies, curry leaves and ginger. Now add cucumber and coconut paste. Cook for few minutes. Finally, add curd. Mix well and serve.

Rasam Ingredients:Lime sized Tamrind1 finely chopped or crushed tomato3-4 cloves garlic, crushed1 green chili1/4 tsp turmeric powder3 cups water Salt to taste 2 tbsp oil 1/2 tsp mustard seeds 7 curry leaves 1/2 tsp asafetida powder Handful coriander leaves, choppedRasam powder made by coarsely grinding together:3 tsp black peppercorns 2 tsp cumin seeds 1/2 tsp coriander seeds 2 tsp toor dal; 2 red chills

Preparation: Soak the tamarind in warm water for 5 minutes and squeeze out the tamarind juice.

Heat a little oil in a pan then add the garlic, green chili and tomatoes. Let the tomatoes cook for a while, until they become soft and juicy. Now add tamarind juice, turmeric, salt, coriander leaves and water.

Bring it to a boil then reduce the flame. Add the rasam powder and asafetida. Let it simmer for about 5 minutes. Do not let it boil.

Meanwhile, heat oil in pan, add mustard seeds and curry leaves. Once it splutters add it to the rasam. Garnish with some fresh chopped coriander.

Ada PradhamanIngredients1/2 cup rice flakes (ada) 1 ¼ cup jaggery 1 ¼ cup thin coconut milk ½ cup thick coconut milk2 tbsp thin slices of coconut 2 tbsp cashew nuts2 tbsp raisins¼ tsp cardamom powder 2 tbsp ghee

Preparation: Bring water to rolling boil, switch off and add the ada. Let it soak for 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, drain the water completely and rinse the ada 2-3 times in cold water. This is done to prevent the ada from sticking to each other. Drain the water completely. Keep it aside for some time.

Dissolve jaggery in half cup of water and strain it to remove impurities if any.

Heat 2 tsp of ghee and fry the cashew nuts, raisins and coconut pieces separately. Remove from pan. In the same pan, heat more ghee and fry the ada in medium or low flame for 4-5 minutes. Now add jaggery water to the ada and cook in medium flame until it thickens.

Once it thickens, add the thin coconut milk (1 1/4 cup). Cook on medium flame until it thickens again. Once it thickens, add the thick coconut milk, fried cashew nuts, raisins, cardamom powder and coconut bits. Mix well and switch off the flame. Do not cook after adding the thick coconut milk.

OlanThe dish is made with red pumpkin, long green beans, dried red beans with coconut milk and with little coconut oil.

Ingredients 1/4 kg red pumpkin sliced

2-3 green chilis1 cup thick coconut milk3-4 long green beans 3 tbsp red beans, soaked in water overnightSalt2 tsp coconut oil PreparationCook the sliced pumpkin, green beans,

green chilies with salt. Pressure- cook the red beans with little salt in cooker for one whistle.

When the pumpkin is cooked, add the red beans to it and mix well. Boil for a minute.

Add the coconut milk, coconut oil and remove from fire. Do not boil after adding the coconut milk.

30 August - 5 September, 2015www.timeskuwait.com 5

and abroad visit Kerala, to take part in the celebrations. The air is filled with festivity, while people indulge in preparations for Thiru Onam.

Day 7: Moolam: During the day, the commercial areas of the state are filled with the bright color of the festivities. People overcrowd the market places for their last-minute Onam shopping. By this time, the spirit of joy and happiness increases manifold and is clearly reflected from the eyes of the people of Kerala. People revamp their pookkalam, giving it an entirely new look with special flowers. The design of the Pookkalam is made even more intricate.

Day 8: Pooradam: The eighth day of Onam, holds a special significance. The pookkalam

is increased in size, with the addition of special flowers. During the day, people clean their house and ensure that every nook and corner of the place is spick and span, as they expect the arrival of Onthappan, the main deity of Onam. While the women of the home are busy in the kitchen, making pickles and other kinds of delicacies, the family members and relatives arrive at their home, on this day to exchange greetings and best wishes.

Day 9: Uthradam: By this time, people are in high spirits to welcome King Mahabali. In some regions of Kerala, full-fledged preparations for Onam are started on Uthradam. Traditionally, this was the day on which poor tenants and farmers brought gifts to the eldest member of the family that owned the land they tilled or lived on. In return, the senior member offers his visitors gifts that range from money, to new clothes and food.

Day 10: Thiru Onam: The tenth and the important day of Onam festival is Thiru Onam, which is marked by huge fanfare and people indulging in joyous celebrations. People wake up in the early morning and take a ceremonial oil bath at the nearby pond. People then don their new Onakkodi dresses. Thereafter, the small children, women and young girls lay the final circle of flowers around their pookkalam to welcome King Mahabali (the legendary king of Kerala, who visits the state every year on Onam). Special prayers are organized at households. In the noon, the grand feast, or Ona sadya is prepared and shared with friends and family. Special Onam games and cultural programs mark the day all over Kerala.

Onam celebrationsTraditional Onam celebrations continue over a period of ten-days starting with the Atham day in the month of Chingam, the first month in the Malayalam calendar, which corresponds to the August - September period

in the Gregorian calendar.

Onam is celebrated with gaiety and joy on all the ten days of the festivities with each day having specific rituals. Of all these days the first day Atham and the tenth day Thiru Onam are the most significant ones. Ninth day Uthradam is also considered to be extremely important from the point of view of celebrations in several parts of Kerala.

Day 1: Atham: This day marks the beginning of Onam festival, with people getting up early, taking bath and offering prayers at nearby temples. Celebrations begin in the morning with a ceremonial swing, adorned with flowers, slung from a high branch of a tree. Youngsters and women take immense pleasure in swinging and singing oonjal (swing) songs. Pookkalam (floral carpet) is laid in the front courtyard of every household. From this day onwards, pookkalam is laid for the following nine days of Onam.

Day 2: Chithira: The second day of Onam has

a special significance in the celebrations. After seeking blessings from various deities in temples people gather to add more flowers to the pookkalam that was laid in the previous day. People start making all their plans for the big day of Thiru Onam, right from this day. Every event is discussed in detail, so that nothing remains incomplete, for the important day. A long shopping list is prepared for the family. It is the time for the children to demand all their pending wishes, because they know that their wish would be granted on the occasion.

Day 3: Chodhi: The day involves many activities, starting from adding flowers to the

pookkalam to shopping. Specific flowers are chosen for the day and boys have the pleasure in choosing the flowers for the floral carpet. The day is marked by buzz and the marketplaces are filled with people, who shop for new clothes (Onakkodi) for the most important day of Onam, that is, Thiru Onam. Gifts are also purchased for the loved ones, on the day. No rituals are set for the day.

Day 4: Visakam: As the number of days to the big day decreases, the excitement and fervor increases among people throughout the state. On Visakam, the fourth day of Onam festival, the streets are busy. Activities are brisk in the market as well as back home. In the marketplace, one can witness rush in the stores, because by this time, the shops would put up season sales for the festival, displaying their latest offers and discounts on household items. Back home, the homemakers would be busy in the kitchen, making delicacies (sweets and pickles) for the festive season.

Day 5: Anizham: In households, more flowers are added to Pookkalam, in an attempt to make it look even more beautiful. The fifth and one of the important days of Onam festival is marked by the grand Vallamkali or Snake-boat race, organized on the banks of Pamba River at Aranmulla, in Pathanamthitta district of Kerala. The boat race is one of the

most favorite sporty pastimes during Onam and pits the brawns of over 100 oarsmen seated in a long-boat. The large number of boats competing with each other and oarsmen rowing in unison to folk songs, is a sight to remember.

Day 6: Thriketa: On the sixth day of Onam, various cultural programs are organized by the committees. People take initiative to attend the events and take part in the cultural programs. No rituals are specific for Thriketa. People decorate their homes and add new flowers to their already laid Pookkalam. It is the time for family reunion, as the family members and acquaintances living outside the state

Ten days of

630 August - 5 September, 2015www.timeskuwait.com

Rise early and join one of the free walking tours conducted in Thiruvananthapuram, the

capital of Kerala State. While Tree Walk explores the city’s tree wealth, Heritage Walk delves into its social, cultural, and architectural history.

Freewheeling walk is a great way to discover facets of the city that would otherwise pass right by. Both tours usually start at 7am and cover one of the city’s neighborhoods.

No visit to Thiruvananthapuram is complete without admiring the Sree Padmanabhaswamy Temple – possibly now the world’s wealthiest religious institutions estimated to hold antiques, gems, and gold worth US$20 billion.

A few hundred meters from the temple’s main entrance is the Kuthira Malika Palace, also called the Puthen Malika, which houses a museum of artifacts belonging to Kingdom of Travancore’s former royals.

(Palace remains open from 8:30am–1pm and 3pm–5:30pm; closed on Mondays. More details are available on sreepadhnabhamsawamytemple.org)

For a further dose of history, art and greenery, head to the tree-filled government museum and complex

that contains a couple of museums, a zoo, and an art gallery. At the very least, visit the eye-catching Napier Museum with its mélange of architectural styles and collection of archeological and historical artifacts.

(Open from 10am–5pm Tuesdays, Thursdays, Sundays; 1–5pm on Wednesdays; closed on Mondays)

Next, step into the nearby Sree Chitra Art Gallery to see paintings by Raja Ravi Varma and Nicholas

and Svetoslav Roerich.(Open from 10am–5pm Tuesdays,

Thursdays, Sundays; 1–5pm on Wednesdays; closed on Mondays)

For a booster shot of history, head to the Kerala Museum of History and Heritage, opposite the main museum complex. The museum, which opened a few years ago,

traces the region’s history and global connections across the ages. Its collections include Neolithic stone axes, a jar and bowl used in Iron Age burials, Roman coins, and sculptures of bronze, wood and stone.

(Open from 10am–5:30pm; closed on Mondays and public holidays. More details can be availed on museumkerala.org)

Round off the heritage-filled day with a mesmerizing kathakali

or koodiyattom performance at Margi, a cultural organization that promotes Kerala’s classical performing art forms. Margi conducts regular kathakali and koodiyattom performances throughout the year, but when planning a visit, it is best to give them a call to find out what is on (marigtheatre.org)

The palace was built by Maharaja Swathi Tirunal Balarama Varma, the King of Travancore, the palace is a fine example of the traditional Travancore style embellished with exquisite woodcarvings.

Kathakali or koodiyattom performance at Margi

Ideas for an enriching weekend in Thiruvanathapuram

At the 16th-century Sree Padmanabhaswamy temple in Trivandrum, Kerala, a vast treasure trove of gold coins, jewels and precious stones were unearthed in July 2011.

Women cooking their offerings for Attukal Pongala

Sree Padmanabhaswamy Temple is one of the most famous Lord Vishnu Temples in Kerala, South India.

Sree Chitra Art Gallery, established in 1935, has a century old world famous paintings of Raja Ravi Varma as star attraction in its display.

Napier Museum

30 August - 5 September, 2015www.timeskuwait.com 7

A walk in the rain

Winding roads curve up misty mountains, ferns sprout from nooks and crannies, and streams gurgle amid an explosion of green.

In Kakkayam, the undiscovered jewel of North Kerala, the phrase ‘magic of the monsoon’ takes an entirely new meaning. Rubber plantations rub shoulders with jackfruit, areca, cocoa, tapioca and coconut, the backwaters of

the Peruvannamuzhi Dam play hide and seek among the folds of the mountains, and no one seems to be in a hurry whatsoever. Nestled by the Malabar Wildlife Sanctuary, Kakkayam is the go-to place if you are the kind that appreciates solitude.

The charm of Kakkayam lies in its laidback pace. Go for a boat-ride on the backwaters, where, pace for occasional fisherman, the entire expanse is to oneself.

Or visit the Kakkayam Dam, a scenic 14km drive up from the town market. A short walk from the check post at the dam site leads to the Urakuzzhi Waterfalls and the suspension bridge over the stream, just where the fall starts its breathtaking tumble down the mountainside. There are guides stationed here all throughout the day, which is just as well, because it is very slippery in the rain. It is compulsory to have a guide with you at the Urakuzzhi Waterfalls.

If you do not mind a workout, the strenuous 45-minute climb up the hillside starting from St Thomas Mount is for you. For the more adventurous, the three-hour hike that starts

across the road from St Thomas Mount, snaking up through the forest up to Thenginkunnu, is just what the doctor ordered. Do take a guide along for the hike, as it is easy to lose your way in the dense undergrowth. A jeep can be hired from Thallayad to drive back from Thenginkunnu.

And if you do not want a workout or adventure, there is an easy walk, too. Amble along the banks of an angry stream rushing over big boulders right below the Kariyathumpara rock to Pappanjadikuzhi. Natural pools have formed along the stream-bed that look inviting for a dip, but the water is quite forceful in the monsoon, so venture in with care.

Thundering waterfalls | Squelchy treks | Rain-soaked landscapes

KakkayamShort break at

Fact SheetGetting there:Closest city: Kozhikode (50km)Closest airport: Kozhikode International Airport (73km). Kakkayam is an hour-and-a-half’s drive away.Closest railheads: Kozhikode Railway Station (55km).

Getting around: Autos and jeeps can be called for from Thallayad, but since it is around 10km away, it is more convenient to have a vehicle at your disposal. Hire a 4WD, because the small dirt road leading up can get quite treacherous in the monsoon.

Where to stay:Kakkayam Homestay: This is a basic facility next to St Thomas Mount. There are only two rooms to choose from; the one on the first floor has a small garden and a rickety treehouse.

Aquarius Cottage: This charming place, with fantastic view of the backwaters, is close to Kakkayam Market. A cook is available on request.

Where to eat: The cook at Aquarius Cottage can whip up a delicious local cuisine, both vegetarian and non-vegetarian. Breakfast, lunch and dinner for two cost approximately Rs1,500 per day. You can also use the kitchen facilities if you procure your own provisions. Kakkayam Homestay also has dining facilities at the premises, along with catering services under the brand name Variety Foods. There are a couple of small restaurants in Kakkayam and Thallayad that are frequented by the locals.

What to pack: Proper rain gear, a sturdy pair of hiking shoes and leech socks

Safety: Wild animals from the Malabar Wildlife Sanctuary are said to frequent Kakkayam, so avoid venturing out on foot after dark.

Child-friendliness: Boats, rafts and waterfalls mean that children will find things to do here, but do make sure they are all strictly under parental supervision.

While Kakkayam is a great place at which to base yourself, Thusharagiri Falls, an hour-and-a-half away by car is also worth a visit. Although only the lower level is open to visitors during the monsoon, the milky white waters and the dipping pools means that you would regret not making the effort to get there. This is a relatively unexplored destination, so it is best to do these

activities with a local guide.Having recognized Kakkayam’s potential as

a destination, Kerala Tourism has earmarked quite a sizeable sum for its development. While this might translate into better amenities for visitors, it will also mean that you would not get a free run of the place if you wait too long to visit the hidden gem. Pack those bags.