Italy, Etna: A Volcano on the Verges - Vini FranchettiOur Reviewers The Vintage Chart Editorial...
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1/10/2015 Article Archive: Etna: A Volcano on the Verge http://www.erobertparker.com/members/winedata/articles/article1132.asp 1/5 Manage My Subscription QUICK SEARCH: Wine Reviews FOR: Enter Full/Partial Keyword(s) Show the Wines More for this Region Quick Links Home What's New Wine Search Our Reviewers The Vintage Chart Editorial Calendar Weekly Wine Buys Bulletin Board Italy, Etna: A Volcano on the Verges September 30, 2015 I didn't know that a mountain could swell up like a balloon until I visited the Sicilian branch of the National Institute of Geophysics and Volcanology back in 2000. I had been assigned to write a magazine article on the precursory activity that occurs before a volcanic eruption. My reporting took me to Catania's Osservatorio Etneo (the Etna Observatory) where researchers monitor the violent mood swings and the unpredictable temperament of the mighty mountain that sits smugly in their backyard. While they worked furiously to collect scientific data, a complacent Etna whittled away the days by blowing smoke rings, burping, belching and I would soon learn nursing a very bloated belly. In addition to your runofthemill seismology and volcanology, the researchers focused on other disciplines that I had never heard of such as geomagnetism (the study of the earth's magnetic field), aeronomy (the study of the upper atmosphere), environmental geophysics (understanding everything that happens within the top 100 meters of the earth's crust), oceanography (as related to seafloor eruptions and hydrothermal vents) and dynamic climatology (the study of atmospheric circulation or thermodynamics). I could only absorb a very small fraction of what these people were telling me. But I do have a visual bookmark that has remained etched in my memory over the fifteen years since my visit. The scientists had placed GPS equipment at equidistant points spanning the coneshaped mountain. Each point appeared as a graphic dot on a computerized threedimensional image of the volcano. When you ran the program, you could see that Etna was indeed swelling in size just like an inflatable mattress. One of the scientists remarked that he had never seen the GPS markers at such an extended state.
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Italy, Etna: A Volcano on the VergesSeptember 30, 2015
I didn't know that a mountain could swell up like a balloon until I visited the Sicilian branch of the NationalInstitute of Geophysics and Volcanology back in 2000. I had been assigned to write a magazine article on theprecursory activity that occurs before a volcanic eruption. My reporting took me to Catania's OsservatorioEtneo (the Etna Observatory) where researchers monitor the violent mood swings and the unpredictabletemperament of the mighty mountain that sits smugly in their backyard. While they worked furiously to collectscientific data, a complacent Etna whittled away the days by blowing smoke rings, burping, belching and Iwould soon learn nursing a very bloated belly.
In addition to your runofthemill seismology and volcanology, the researchers focused on other disciplinesthat I had never heard of such as geomagnetism (the study of the earth's magnetic field), aeronomy (the studyof the upper atmosphere), environmental geophysics (understanding everything that happens within the top100 meters of the earth's crust), oceanography (as related to seafloor eruptions and hydrothermal vents) anddynamic climatology (the study of atmospheric circulation or thermodynamics). I could only absorb a verysmall fraction of what these people were telling me. But I do have a visual bookmark that has remainedetched in my memory over the fifteen years since my visit. The scientists had placed GPS equipment atequidistant points spanning the coneshaped mountain. Each point appeared as a graphic dot on acomputerized threedimensional image of the volcano. When you ran the program, you could see that Etnawas indeed swelling in size just like an inflatable mattress. One of the scientists remarked that he had neverseen the GPS markers at such an extended state.
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In July 2001, Etna produced its first flank eruption in ten years. Seven distinct lateral fissures on the southslope saw violent magma flows. In 2002, a much larger eruption spewed forth a column of smoke and ash thatwas so big, it could be seen from space. The Sicilian stratovolcano is one of the most active volcanoes onthe planet. You can monitor its activity thanks to real time seismic signals and webcam feeds at the IstitutoNazionale di Geofisica e Vulcanologia's web site, www.ct.ingv.it.
Warning Signs
Today, Etna is giving off clear warning signs of a vinous nature. I have been one of the loudest advocates foran upcoming Etna wine eruption and my enthusiasm is driven by the fact that I really do passionately lovethese wines. Many others in my field share this sentiment. Many more may disagree. I feel a personalconnection to this uniquely stunning wine region and will readily admit to a pinch of journalistic jealously andpossessiveness where Etna is concerned. Over the years, I have left my footprints in its blackened soils, Ihave seen its glowing snowcap against a midnight sky and have witnessed its fuming fissures and fiery lavaflows. I have visited this wine region once a year for the past ten years and have participated in its amazinggrowth and rapidly rising status. I feel that I am part of the Etna wine phenomenon.
However, I am also aware of the fact that there is little track record for Etna wine quality and what we do haveshows many glaring inconsistencies. It is not easy to commit to the idea of an Etna wine explosion until wegain a better understanding of where these wines are headed and if they will evolve in the future. This will takemany more years of winemaking experience by the young generation that is at the helm of Etna wine today. Itwill also require that a larger library of ageworthy wines is collected and cellared.
There are a few festering tweaks that need to be made to the current state of enological Etna. Too many
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wines appear trapped in that murky no man's land between oxidation and reduction. Nerello Mascalese (themain grape used in Etna red wines) tends to lose its color intensity quickly and it is prone to oxidative aromasand pungent aldehydes. For this reason, many winemakers react by making their wine in the absence ofoxygen. Consequently, this can lead to problems with reduction that manifest as clumsy sulfur flavors that sitheavily over the bouquet. It is my fear that many of us in the wine trade are mistakenly attributing thosesulfurlike aromas to the volcanic nature of the Etneo territory and its mineralrich soils. These flaws shouldnot be confused with typicity or terroir.
Once these issues are ironed out, we are left with what is undoubtedly one of the most exciting wine regionsin Italy.
The 2014 Vintage
I make that claim based on what I believe will be the most exiting vintage for Etna red wines. The yetunreleased 2014 vintage is Etna's ultimate warning sign that something great lays over the horizon. I believe itwill be a "make or break" vintage for this emerging wine region in the deep south of Italy. I had the opportunityto preview taste much of the 2014 Etna Rosso in barrel at the Contrade dell'Etna wine event and look forwardto scoring the finished wines are soon as they are ready in about six month's time.
The growing conditions were excellent and the resulting wines represent a clear jump forward in qualitycompared to the challenging 2013 and 2012 vintages (reviewed in this report). Unlike other parts of Italy thatsaw wet and damp conditions during much of the 2014 summer season, Etna (and Sicilian wine in general)enjoyed sundrenched days and marked diurnal shifts between day and night time temperatures. This helpedto make aromas and fruity flavors more pronounced. You can see the excellence of the vintage in the color ofthe Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio basedwines. These grapes tend to show browning or amberhues at an early stage. Etna Rosso wines from 2014 are characterized by dark ruby or almost purplish hueswith thick extraction and evident density. Many vintners remarked that they had never previously been able toachieve the colors obtained in 2014. The quality of the aromas is also unmatched with thick fruit layers thatstand in the absence of the oxidized or reductive aromas that have emerged in older vintages.
The 2014 vintage also marks a moment of maturity for Etna wines. We can now assume that even theyoungest generation of vintners on the volcano has amassed enough experience to avoid some of theproblems of the past. In addition to the Etna natives, a massive wave of nonSicilian enologists has appearedon Etna. People such as Carlo Ferrini, Lorenzo Landi, Emiliano Falsini and Luca D'Attoma have turned Etnainto an enological utopia for some of the most creative and innovative winemaking techniques practiced inItaly today. They bring important experience and credibility to the volcano.
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Beside the impressive people power that characterizes Etna, it would be impossible to exaggerate thestunning beauty of these vineyards. To my eye, they are the most beautiful I have even seen. Piano dei Dainihas a property called Vigna Vico in Passopisciaro where ancient vines sit on rock as if they were resting afteryears of hard work. Dozens of stone terraces made out of volcanic stone line the background. Tenuta delleTerre Nere's Guardiola vineyard sees fruit trees and flowers planted among the vines. Little shrines withstatues of the Virgin Mary are placed throughout as a way of warding off dangerous lava flows. Pietradolce'sVigna Barbagalli is a perfect amphitheater of black stone and vines at 900 meters above sea level. The mostimpressive sight however is Fattorie Romeo del Castello. A lateral eruption in 1981 caused a wall of lava toclip the edges of the vineyard. Some 20 hectares of vines and fruit trees were destroyed. Miraculously, not allof the vines that were buried under the molten rock were killed. Today, the knotted trunks of grapevines havepushed through the lava and continue to thrive. Imagine a life force that could survive such enormous heat. Itwould seem impossible. I have filmed many of these places in this Etna video:
To me, 2014 is a warning sign that the wines of Etna are about to explode onto the world stage. I amreminded of those GPS markers that showed how Etna became physically swollen before some of its mostdramatic eruptions. As we wait for the new releases, I hope to whet your appetite for Etna with this review of(mostly) 2013 and 2012 reds and some excellent 2014 whites and Rosatos.
—Monica Larner
6:41
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1/10/2015 2013 Passopisciaro Guardiola
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2013 Passopisciaro GuardiolaA Chardonnay Dry White Table wine fromItaly, Terre Siciliane, Sicily, Italy
Source Reviewer Rating MaturityCurrent(Release)Cost
eRobertParker.com #Interim September 2015
Sep 2015Monica Larner 92 Drink: 2015
2019 (40)
A pure expression of Chardonnay, the 2013 Guardiola is a lush and generous expression with fullbody, sensual appeal. The bouquet is profound and fluid with pretty aromas of toasted cereal,tropical fruit, apricot, honey and white rose. The bouquet also reveals those dusty mineral notes thatare characteristic of volcanic winemaking. It shows a rich and supple texture with creamy layers.
My tasting of Andrea Franchetti's Etna wines was a revelation. Not so much for the quality of thewines that is and has always been beyond reproach, but for the full circle philosophicalmetamorphosis that they represent. Here you have the man who, in terms of its international appeal,invented the concept of Etna wine. He (and Marco De Grazia) brought the volcano to the world winestage. Yet his flagship bottle back then was made with Petit Verdot and Cesanese d'Affile, twograpes that are completely out of place on the indigenous Etna wine scene. He was criticized forthis but ultimately no one really held it against him because his wine nabbed sky high scores andbrought the spotlight to this previously unknown region. Franchetti was also among the first toarticulate the concept of Contrade that draws important parallels to the single vineyard or crusystem that is so efficiently proposed in Burgundy and Barolo. The Contrade dell'Etna consumertasting event that is held each year was his brainchild. So how could the man who unleashed Etna'sterritorial expressions at such a profound level make Petit Verdot? Was he a visionary or was hebehind the curve? The brilliant thing about Franchetti's thinking is that he is both, and he continuesto march to the beat of his own drum. A few years back, his wine philosophy changed direction andhe returned his focus to Nerello Mascalese. I was delighted to taste this year's line of singleContrada cru wines. No other vintner, not even his frenemy Marco De Grazia can boast such acollection of wines. They delve deep into the inner workings of single vineyard understanding.Magically, Franchetti has reinvented himself to be, once again, ahead of the pack.
Importer(s):
T Edward Wines, 66 W Broadway Suite 406 New York, NY 10007, 212 233 1504,www.tedwardwines.com
Add to Print List
About Maturity and Drink Dates: Most reviews in The Wine Advocate include a period during which the wineshould ideally be consumed. We express it as a range of years (Drink Dates) and we use that range to calculatea 'Maturity' for the wine as of the current date. Maturity values are: Young the early drink date is in the future;Early first third of the drink date range; Mature middle third of the range; Late last third of the range; Old thelate drink date is in the past.
1/10/2015 2013 Passopisciaro Guardiola
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1/10/2015 2012 Passopisciaro Passopisciaro
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2012 Passopisciaro PassopisciaroA Nerello Mascalese Dry Red Table wine fromItaly, Terre Siciliane, Sicily, Italy
Source Reviewer Rating MaturityCurrent(Release)Cost
eRobertParker.com #Interim September 2015
Sep 2015Monica Larner 93 Drink: 2015
2027 (45)
An IGT Terre Siciliane wine, the 2012 Passopisciaro is 100% Nerello Mascalese aged in bottegrande for 18 months. The wine opens to a light garnet hue that is characteristic of the grape andthe hot vintage. This Etna grape can easily bleach out its color. The wine's bouquet reveals volcanictones of brimstone and ash with pretty contours of wild berry, cassis and blue flower. There's apretty sense of lift and buoyancy in the mouth thanks to the pure energy and intensity of its fruit.Despite the wine's light color, this is a firecracker red in terms of its appeal to the nose and palate.
My tasting of Andrea Franchetti's Etna wines was a revelation. Not so much for the quality of thewines that is and has always been beyond reproach, but for the full circle philosophicalmetamorphosis that they represent. Here you have the man who, in terms of its international appeal,invented the concept of Etna wine. He (and Marco De Grazia) brought the volcano to the world winestage. Yet his flagship bottle back then was made with Petit Verdot and Cesanese d'Affile, twograpes that are completely out of place on the indigenous Etna wine scene. He was criticized forthis but ultimately no one really held it against him because his wine nabbed sky high scores andbrought the spotlight to this previously unknown region. Franchetti was also among the first toarticulate the concept of Contrade that draws important parallels to the single vineyard or crusystem that is so efficiently proposed in Burgundy and Barolo. The Contrade dell'Etna consumertasting event that is held each year was his brainchild. So how could the man who unleashed Etna'sterritorial expressions at such a profound level make Petit Verdot? Was he a visionary or was hebehind the curve? The brilliant thing about Franchetti's thinking is that he is both, and he continuesto march to the beat of his own drum. A few years back, his wine philosophy changed direction andhe returned his focus to Nerello Mascalese. I was delighted to taste this year's line of singleContrada cru wines. No other vintner, not even his frenemy Marco De Grazia can boast such acollection of wines. They delve deep into the inner workings of single vineyard understanding.Magically, Franchetti has reinvented himself to be, once again, ahead of the pack.
Importer(s):
T Edward Wines, 66 W Broadway Suite 406 New York, NY 10007, 212 233 1504,www.tedwardwines.com
Add to Print List
About Maturity and Drink Dates: Most reviews in The Wine Advocate include a period during which the wineshould ideally be consumed. We express it as a range of years (Drink Dates) and we use that range to calculatea 'Maturity' for the wine as of the current date. Maturity values are: Young the early drink date is in the future;Early first third of the drink date range; Mature middle third of the range; Late last third of the range; Old thelate drink date is in the past.
1/10/2015 2012 Passopisciaro Passopisciaro
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1/10/2015 2012 Passopisciaro Franchetti
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2012 Passopisciaro FranchettiA Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine fromItaly, Terre Siciliane, Sicily, Italy
Source Reviewer Rating MaturityCurrent(Release)Cost
eRobertParker.com #Interim September 2015
Sep 2015Monica Larner 94 Drink: 2015
2030 (148)
Passopisciaro's 2012 Franchetti is 70% Petit Verdot and 30% Cesanese d'Affile made on thedarkened slopes of the mighty Mount Etna. This is the original super Etnean wine that broughtattention to this corner of Sicily in the same manner that Sassicaia put coastal Tuscany on theworld wine map. The nose here is dense and dark with thick layers of barbecue smoke, dark fruit,prune, mahogany and cured meat. Here's an interesting fact: On August 5th, 2012 a wild fire burnedaround the vineyards where these two varieties are planted. Smoke billowed for a long time evenafter the fire was extinguished. Because this was a dry summer with no rain for more than twomonths, Franchetti believes that the smoke aromas were absorbed by the fruit. Given the smokeyand savory bouquet, this may be the case. The wine is aged in barrique for six months and thengoes into cement vats for 14 months. In the mouth, this is a luscious, dark and fully extracted redwine.
My tasting of Andrea Franchetti's Etna wines was a revelation. Not so much for the quality of thewines that is and has always been beyond reproach, but for the full circle philosophicalmetamorphosis that they represent. Here you have the man who, in terms of its international appeal,invented the concept of Etna wine. He (and Marco De Grazia) brought the volcano to the world winestage. Yet his flagship bottle back then was made with Petit Verdot and Cesanese d'Affile, twograpes that are completely out of place on the indigenous Etna wine scene. He was criticized forthis but ultimately no one really held it against him because his wine nabbed sky high scores andbrought the spotlight to this previously unknown region. Franchetti was also among the first toarticulate the concept of Contrade that draws important parallels to the single vineyard or crusystem that is so efficiently proposed in Burgundy and Barolo. The Contrade dell'Etna consumertasting event that is held each year was his brainchild. So how could the man who unleashed Etna'sterritorial expressions at such a profound level make Petit Verdot? Was he a visionary or was hebehind the curve? The brilliant thing about Franchetti's thinking is that he is both, and he continuesto march to the beat of his own drum. A few years back, his wine philosophy changed direction andhe returned his focus to Nerello Mascalese. I was delighted to taste this year's line of singleContrada cru wines. No other vintner, not even his frenemy Marco De Grazia can boast such acollection of wines. They delve deep into the inner workings of single vineyard understanding.Magically, Franchetti has reinvented himself to be, once again, ahead of the pack.
Importer(s):
T Edward Wines, 66 W Broadway Suite 406 New York, NY 10007, 212 233 1504,www.tedwardwines.com
Add to Print List
1/10/2015 2012 Passopisciaro Franchetti
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About Maturity and Drink Dates: Most reviews in The Wine Advocate include a period during which the wineshould ideally be consumed. We express it as a range of years (Drink Dates) and we use that range to calculatea 'Maturity' for the wine as of the current date. Maturity values are: Young the early drink date is in the future;Early first third of the drink date range; Mature middle third of the range; Late last third of the range; Old thelate drink date is in the past.
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1/10/2015 2012 Passopisciaro Contrada S
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2012 Passopisciaro Contrada SA Nerello Mascalese Dry Red Table wine fromItaly, Terre Siciliane, Sicily, Italy
Source Reviewer Rating MaturityCurrent(Release)Cost
eRobertParker.com #Interim September 2015
Sep 2015Monica Larner 93 Drink: 2015
2025 (59)
The 2012 Contrada S is a silky wine with a high dose of simpatia that creeps up on you slowly.Contrada Sciaranuova (hence the "S") is a high altitude vineyard located inside a valley made by arelatively new lava flows. The soil consists of volcanic soil with flaky carbon, gravel and pumice.The wine shows depth and great balance with wild berries, back current, smoke and grilled herb. OfFranchetti's single vineyard wines, this is the most direct and smooth in delivery. Like all the otherIGT Terre Siciliane Nerello Mascalese wines in this series, Contrada S is aged in botte grande for18 months. This allows for a slow and steady evolution.
My tasting of Andrea Franchetti's Etna wines was a revelation. Not so much for the quality of thewines that is and has always been beyond reproach, but for the full circle philosophicalmetamorphosis that they represent. Here you have the man who, in terms of its international appeal,invented the concept of Etna wine. He (and Marco De Grazia) brought the volcano to the world winestage. Yet his flagship bottle back then was made with Petit Verdot and Cesanese d'Affile, twograpes that are completely out of place on the indigenous Etna wine scene. He was criticized forthis but ultimately no one really held it against him because his wine nabbed sky high scores andbrought the spotlight to this previously unknown region. Franchetti was also among the first toarticulate the concept of Contrade that draws important parallels to the single vineyard or crusystem that is so efficiently proposed in Burgundy and Barolo. The Contrade dell'Etna consumertasting event that is held each year was his brainchild. So how could the man who unleashed Etna'sterritorial expressions at such a profound level make Petit Verdot? Was he a visionary or was hebehind the curve? The brilliant thing about Franchetti's thinking is that he is both, and he continuesto march to the beat of his own drum. A few years back, his wine philosophy changed direction andhe returned his focus to Nerello Mascalese. I was delighted to taste this year's line of singleContrada cru wines. No other vintner, not even his frenemy Marco De Grazia can boast such acollection of wines. They delve deep into the inner workings of single vineyard understanding.Magically, Franchetti has reinvented himself to be, once again, ahead of the pack.
Importer(s):
T Edward Wines, 66 W Broadway Suite 406 New York, NY 10007, 212 233 1504,www.tedwardwines.com
Add to Print List
About Maturity and Drink Dates: Most reviews in The Wine Advocate include a period during which the wineshould ideally be consumed. We express it as a range of years (Drink Dates) and we use that range to calculatea 'Maturity' for the wine as of the current date. Maturity values are: Young the early drink date is in the future;Early first third of the drink date range; Mature middle third of the range; Late last third of the range; Old thelate drink date is in the past.
1/10/2015 2012 Passopisciaro Contrada S
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2012 Passopisciaro Contrada RA Nerello Mascalese Dry Red Table wine fromItaly, Terre Siciliane, Sicily, Italy
Source Reviewer Rating MaturityCurrent(Release)Cost
eRobertParker.com #Interim September 2015
Sep 2015Monica Larner 92+ Drink: 2015
2030 (55)
From the Contrade Rampant at 1,000 meters above sea level, the 2012 Contrada R is a finelynuanced and elegant wine. This is one of the last sites on Etna to reach maturity and therefore thiswine benefits from a longer growing season. It also sees more acidity and a firmer quality of tanninsthat makes this bottle appropriate for long cellar aging. Small berry fruit, bitter almond, pressedviolets and crushed stone are part of the bouquet. You can feel that extra astringency in the mouthfor sure. Give Contrada R a good five years to flesh out further.
My tasting of Andrea Franchetti's Etna wines was a revelation. Not so much for the quality of thewines that is and has always been beyond reproach, but for the full circle philosophicalmetamorphosis that they represent. Here you have the man who, in terms of its international appeal,invented the concept of Etna wine. He (and Marco De Grazia) brought the volcano to the world winestage. Yet his flagship bottle back then was made with Petit Verdot and Cesanese d'Affile, twograpes that are completely out of place on the indigenous Etna wine scene. He was criticized forthis but ultimately no one really held it against him because his wine nabbed sky high scores andbrought the spotlight to this previously unknown region. Franchetti was also among the first toarticulate the concept of Contrade that draws important parallels to the single vineyard or crusystem that is so efficiently proposed in Burgundy and Barolo. The Contrade dell'Etna consumertasting event that is held each year was his brainchild. So how could the man who unleashed Etna'sterritorial expressions at such a profound level make Petit Verdot? Was he a visionary or was hebehind the curve? The brilliant thing about Franchetti's thinking is that he is both, and he continuesto march to the beat of his own drum. A few years back, his wine philosophy changed direction andhe returned his focus to Nerello Mascalese. I was delighted to taste this year's line of singleContrada cru wines. No other vintner, not even his frenemy Marco De Grazia can boast such acollection of wines. They delve deep into the inner workings of single vineyard understanding.Magically, Franchetti has reinvented himself to be, once again, ahead of the pack.
Importer(s):
T Edward Wines, 66 W Broadway Suite 406 New York, NY 10007, 212 233 1504,www.tedwardwines.com
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About Maturity and Drink Dates: Most reviews in The Wine Advocate include a period during which the wineshould ideally be consumed. We express it as a range of years (Drink Dates) and we use that range to calculatea 'Maturity' for the wine as of the current date. Maturity values are: Young the early drink date is in the future;Early first third of the drink date range; Mature middle third of the range; Late last third of the range; Old thelate drink date is in the past.
1/10/2015 2012 Passopisciaro Contrada R
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1/10/2015 2012 Passopisciaro Contrada P
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2012 Passopisciaro Contrada PA Nerello Mascalese Dry Red Table wine fromItaly, Terre Siciliane, Sicily, Italy
Source Reviewer Rating MaturityCurrent(Release)Cost
eRobertParker.com #Interim September 2015
Sep 2015Monica Larner 95 Drink: 2015
2030 (69)
The 2012 Contrada P is my favorite wine among Andrea Franchetti's batch of new singlevineyardreleases. This is a spectacular expression of Nerello Mascalese (aged in large oak casks for 18months) that speaks in a loud, clear and beautifully melodious voice. Contrada Porcaria sees 80yearold vines planted at 600 to 700 meters above sea level. The soils consist of thin layers of lavadeposit and sandy ash. The mineral definition here is excellent thanks to flinty tones of crushedgranite and pencil shaving. But there is a good amount of soft fruit as well, especially Morellocherry, dried blackberry and cassis. This wine spoke to me. I loved its vigor, personality andpolished feel.
My tasting of Andrea Franchetti's Etna wines was a revelation. Not so much for the quality of thewines that is and has always been beyond reproach, but for the full circle philosophicalmetamorphosis that they represent. Here you have the man who, in terms of its international appeal,invented the concept of Etna wine. He (and Marco De Grazia) brought the volcano to the world winestage. Yet his flagship bottle back then was made with Petit Verdot and Cesanese d'Affile, twograpes that are completely out of place on the indigenous Etna wine scene. He was criticized forthis but ultimately no one really held it against him because his wine nabbed sky high scores andbrought the spotlight to this previously unknown region. Franchetti was also among the first toarticulate the concept of Contrade that draws important parallels to the single vineyard or crusystem that is so efficiently proposed in Burgundy and Barolo. The Contrade dell'Etna consumertasting event that is held each year was his brainchild. So how could the man who unleashed Etna'sterritorial expressions at such a profound level make Petit Verdot? Was he a visionary or was hebehind the curve? The brilliant thing about Franchetti's thinking is that he is both, and he continuesto march to the beat of his own drum. A few years back, his wine philosophy changed direction andhe returned his focus to Nerello Mascalese. I was delighted to taste this year's line of singleContrada cru wines. No other vintner, not even his frenemy Marco De Grazia can boast such acollection of wines. They delve deep into the inner workings of single vineyard understanding.Magically, Franchetti has reinvented himself to be, once again, ahead of the pack.
Importer(s):
T Edward Wines, 66 W Broadway Suite 406 New York, NY 10007, 212 233 1504,www.tedwardwines.com
Add to Print List
About Maturity and Drink Dates: Most reviews in The Wine Advocate include a period during which the wineshould ideally be consumed. We express it as a range of years (Drink Dates) and we use that range to calculatea 'Maturity' for the wine as of the current date. Maturity values are: Young the early drink date is in the future;Early first third of the drink date range; Mature middle third of the range; Late last third of the range; Old thelate drink date is in the past.
1/10/2015 2012 Passopisciaro Contrada P
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1/10/2015 2012 Passopisciaro Contrada G
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2012 Passopisciaro Contrada GA Nerello Mascalese Dry Red Table wine fromItaly, Terre Siciliane, Sicily, Italy
Source Reviewer Rating MaturityCurrent(Release)Cost
eRobertParker.com #Interim September 2015
Sep 2015Monica Larner 93 Drink: 2015
2025 (65)
The 2012 Contrada G reveals earthy tones of crushed granite and flint that serve as a vivid remindthat the great Etna volcano is never far. The Guardiola vineyard, which is stunningly beautiful by theway, sits between 800 and 1,000 meters above sea level. Franchetti's property is located near thebottom of the Contrada and has vines that are up to 80yearsold. The vineyard was spared fromdestruction by the 1947 eruption that sent violent lava flows down this way. Luscious fruit comesinto focus and the wine is surprisingly soft and yielding on the finish. You rarely get this level ofsensual richness in Etna reds.
My tasting of Andrea Franchetti's Etna wines was a revelation. Not so much for the quality of thewines that is and has always been beyond reproach, but for the full circle philosophicalmetamorphosis that they represent. Here you have the man who, in terms of its international appeal,invented the concept of Etna wine. He (and Marco De Grazia) brought the volcano to the world winestage. Yet his flagship bottle back then was made with Petit Verdot and Cesanese d'Affile, twograpes that are completely out of place on the indigenous Etna wine scene. He was criticized forthis but ultimately no one really held it against him because his wine nabbed sky high scores andbrought the spotlight to this previously unknown region. Franchetti was also among the first toarticulate the concept of Contrade that draws important parallels to the single vineyard or crusystem that is so efficiently proposed in Burgundy and Barolo. The Contrade dell'Etna consumertasting event that is held each year was his brainchild. So how could the man who unleashed Etna'sterritorial expressions at such a profound level make Petit Verdot? Was he a visionary or was hebehind the curve? The brilliant thing about Franchetti's thinking is that he is both, and he continuesto march to the beat of his own drum. A few years back, his wine philosophy changed direction andhe returned his focus to Nerello Mascalese. I was delighted to taste this year's line of singleContrada cru wines. No other vintner, not even his frenemy Marco De Grazia can boast such acollection of wines. They delve deep into the inner workings of single vineyard understanding.Magically, Franchetti has reinvented himself to be, once again, ahead of the pack.
Importer(s):
T Edward Wines, 66 W Broadway Suite 406 New York, NY 10007, 212 233 1504,www.tedwardwines.com
Add to Print List
About Maturity and Drink Dates: Most reviews in The Wine Advocate include a period during which the wineshould ideally be consumed. We express it as a range of years (Drink Dates) and we use that range to calculatea 'Maturity' for the wine as of the current date. Maturity values are: Young the early drink date is in the future;Early first third of the drink date range; Mature middle third of the range; Late last third of the range; Old thelate drink date is in the past.
1/10/2015 2012 Passopisciaro Contrada G
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1/10/2015 2012 Passopisciaro Contrada C
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2012 Passopisciaro Contrada CA Nerello Mascalese Dry Red Table wine fromItaly, Terre Siciliane, Sicily, Italy
Source Reviewer Rating MaturityCurrent(Release)Cost
eRobertParker.com #Interim September 2015
Sep 2015Monica Larner 92 Drink: 2015
2022 (55)
The "C" in the 2012 Contrada C stands for Chiappemacine. This is a 1.2 hectare vineyard planted to80yearold vines at 550 meters above sea level. The soils here consist of a thin layer of volcaniclava that allows the roots to penetrate the sandy limestone below. This results in a softer wine witha round and plush mouthfeel. Bright berry nuances are followed by pressed rose petal and crushedstone. I would suggest a slightly shorter drinking window for Contrada C. It ages in botte grande for18 months.
My tasting of Andrea Franchetti's Etna wines was a revelation. Not so much for the quality of thewines that is and has always been beyond reproach, but for the full circle philosophicalmetamorphosis that they represent. Here you have the man who, in terms of its international appeal,invented the concept of Etna wine. He (and Marco De Grazia) brought the volcano to the world winestage. Yet his flagship bottle back then was made with Petit Verdot and Cesanese d'Affile, twograpes that are completely out of place on the indigenous Etna wine scene. He was criticized forthis but ultimately no one really held it against him because his wine nabbed sky high scores andbrought the spotlight to this previously unknown region. Franchetti was also among the first toarticulate the concept of Contrade that draws important parallels to the single vineyard or crusystem that is so efficiently proposed in Burgundy and Barolo. The Contrade dell'Etna consumertasting event that is held each year was his brainchild. So how could the man who unleashed Etna'sterritorial expressions at such a profound level make Petit Verdot? Was he a visionary or was hebehind the curve? The brilliant thing about Franchetti's thinking is that he is both, and he continuesto march to the beat of his own drum. A few years back, his wine philosophy changed direction andhe returned his focus to Nerello Mascalese. I was delighted to taste this year's line of singleContrada cru wines. No other vintner, not even his frenemy Marco De Grazia can boast such acollection of wines. They delve deep into the inner workings of single vineyard understanding.Magically, Franchetti has reinvented himself to be, once again, ahead of the pack.
Importer(s):
T Edward Wines, 66 W Broadway Suite 406 New York, NY 10007, 212 233 1504,www.tedwardwines.com
Add to Print List
About Maturity and Drink Dates: Most reviews in The Wine Advocate include a period during which the wineshould ideally be consumed. We express it as a range of years (Drink Dates) and we use that range to calculatea 'Maturity' for the wine as of the current date. Maturity values are: Young the early drink date is in the future;Early first third of the drink date range; Mature middle third of the range; Late last third of the range; Old thelate drink date is in the past.
1/10/2015 2012 Passopisciaro Contrada C
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