Session 4

Finishing

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ObjectivesTo understand the various reasons for textile finishingTo understand the differences between aesthetic & functional finishesTo be familiar with specific textile finishing & their effects on fabrics

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What is Finishing?Treatments on fabric after it been pretreated and coloured (dyed or printed)Most finishing processes performed in same plants as dyeing or printing

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Aim of FinishingTo improve attractiveness or serviceability of fabric

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Classification of FinishesAesthetic finishesFunctional finishes

orPermanent finishesDurable finishesSemi-durable finishesTemporary finishes

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How to Finish?Physical

Use moisture, heat, & pressure

ChemicalDeposit chemicals on fabric surfacesReact chemicals with fabrics

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Aesthetic FinishesFinishes which change appearance, drapability, & handle of fabrics

1. Calendering: to improve fabric lustre by pressing the fabric with rollers under high pressure and temperature

2. Shreinering: similar to calendering except the upper heated roller is engraved with very fine lines (e.g. 300 lines per inch). The shreinered fabric has lustre similar to that of mercerisation

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Aesthetic Finishes3. Embossing: fabric is embossed by passing it

through heated engraved rollers. Embossing produces a raised relief design which is permanent on thermoplastic but temporary on cotton

4. Napping (raising): fabric passes against rotating, bristled, wire-covered brushes. Fibres raised from fabric faceNapped fabrics have softer handle & better heat insulation (e.g. blankets, sleepwear, & winter clothing)

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Aesthetic Finishes5. Shearing: to cut off surface fibres on fabrics

(napped) to provide uniform pile height. The fabrics then have an attractive surface resembling a pile effect (e.g. corduroys)

6. Sueding (emerizing): to sands off uneven & protruding fibres on fabrics to produce a soft chamois-like nap. The process involves sanding of fabrics by passing them through a series of sand-paper covered rollers

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Functional FinishesFinishes improve performance properties of fabrics

1. Antibacterial finishes: to inhibit bacteria & fungi growth. Important for skin-contact items (underwear, diapers, surgical packs)

2. Antistatic finishes: to reduce static

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Functional Finishes3. Flame-resistant Finishes: important for

children’s sleepwear

4. Water & stain Repellents: to deposit a layer of water-hating chemical on fabric surface

5. UV-protection: achieved by depositing chemicals which reflect (e.g. titanium dioxide) or absorb UV

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Functional Finish: Wrinkle Resistance

Cotton & viscose easily form creasesResin (a chemical) is used to improve their wrinkle resistance

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Greige Goods

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Calendered

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Figure. Schreiner Calender

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Figure. Calendered fabric (left) and original fabric(right)

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Figure. Shreiner steel bowl with engraved lines (250-350 linesper inch)

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Figure. Embossing machine

Relief on rollers

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Embossed Shower Curtain

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Embossed Leather

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Figure. Fabric raising

Fabric

Wires

Drum

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Brushed Tricot–face

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Brushed Tricot–back

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Sweatshirt Fleece–back/ napped

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Flannelette/Napped

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Sueded Rayon

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