Post on 07-Apr-2018
8/6/2019 Quality Control and Standard in Spreading and Cutting Gunjan-1
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Submitted By:-
Sonali, Seema
Gunjan, Isha
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The word quality is used in terms of an excellent product
or service that fulfils or exceeds our expectations.
These expectations are based on the intended use
and selling price.
Quality consists of those product features which meet
the need of customers and thereby provide product
satisfaction.
According to J.M JURAN
Quality is customer satisfaction achieved through
product features and freedom from deficiencies.
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` Quality control (QC) is a procedure or set of proceduresintended to ensure that a manufactured product or performedservice adheres to a defined set of quality criteria or meetsthe requirements of the client or customer.
` Quality control is a regulatory process through which wemeasure actual quality performance, compare it with qualitygoals, and act on the difference. It includes :-
` Product inspection
` The name of the department which is devoted full time to thequality function.
` The tools, skills or techniques through which some or all ofthe quality function is carried out.
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` Poor spreading can cause many problems in themanufacturing process.
` If the fabric is spread incorrectly, shadingproblems can occur.
` If the fabric is stretched too tightly, it could causepieces to be cut too small, and if the spread fabricleans, then the pieces could be cut improperly.
It is important to have well trained
employees spreading the fabric so that theseproblems do not occur.
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` Markers:Ensure that no makers are creased, damaged, or have overlapping
parts.
` Marker Placement:
Be sure that the marker on top of the cut and the mark on thetable are the same.
` Table Marks:
Check that the table is marked carefully. Allow no minus tolerancefor splices.
Pattern Check:
Compare the pattern to the marker paper to ensure the maker iscorrect. Make sure that the pattern is correctly spread and that it has no bias.
` Splices:
After completion of the spread, check splice laps to see that both plies
extend past the marked splice by no less than inch.` Narrow Goods:
After the completion of a spread, check the far edge of the spreadto see that all the plies extend beyond the marker line.
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` Tension:
Check tension during spreading.
` Leaning:
Check carefully to ensure that one edge of the fabric is square to the
table top.` Remnants:
Cannot exceed the length of a single garment section for that
particular cut otherwise, it needs to be re-cut and used to make another
garment.
` Fabric Flaws:
When sections of fabric are removed due to flaws, it must berecorded.
` Defects:
Any defects found must be reported and checked 100%.
` Ends:
Ends should be inch.
` Spreader should spread rolls according to shade. If two shades must be used
in order to complete a spread, tissue paper should be used to separate the rolls.
` Spreaders should also make sure that fabric defects are cut out of the rolls of
fabric before they are spread
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` Alignments of the plies
` Every ply must comprise at least the length and width of the marker. In
addition it should have minimum possible extra outside those
measurements. Because nature of fabric is such that fabric width varies
piece to piece
` Elimination of the Fabric Flaws
` Fabric flaws may be identifies by the supplier or by the spreader. It must be
eliminated by different methods.
` Correct Ply direction
` For fabrics designated both one way only and one way either way, the
spread should contain plies whose surface direction is compatible with thepattern facing of the marker.
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` Elimination of Static Electricity
` In spreading plies of fabric containing man made fibers, friction may
increase the static electricity in the fabric. The spreader will experience in
laying a ply neatly on top of the others due to either attraction or repulsion
of those plies according to how they are charged.` Method to reduce static electricity:
` - Change the method of threading the fabric through the guide bars
` - increase the humidity of the atmosphere in the cutting room
` - arrange to earth the lay
` Avoidance of distortion in the spread
` A layer of glazed paper, laid glazed upside down, is normally placed at the
bottom of the spread. This helps to avoid disturbing the lowest plies on the
material in the spread when the base plate of a straight knife passes
underneath. Also gives stability to the lay if it is to be moved on a table.
` Avoidance of Fusion during cutting
` Anti-fusion paper may be used in the same way as interleaving. It containsa lubricant which lubricates the knife blade as it passes through the spread.
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` Cutting is the process which actually cuts the raw material in to components for making aproduct.
Cutting is irreversible process so it must be according to given parameters.Cutting affects the overall Quality of a finished garment. Cut parts inspection helps in
improving the quality product for go ahead in stitching.During cut parts inspection shade, shape and other faults are removed and on the basis
of rejected pieces report a lot is hold or go ahead for stitching.
` So by controlling quality at this stage is fruitful in spite of we stitch a garment and afterstitching that garment is rejected due to flaws.
` Cutting quality1.CUTTING QUALITY IS IMPORTANTTO THE SUCCESS OF A PRODUCT.2. QUALITY IN THE CUTTING ROOMHAS FABRIC AND OPERATIONS IMPLICATIONS.3. THE EFFECTS OF CUTTING QUALITYMAGNIFYTHROUGHOUTTHEMANUFACTURING PROCESS
` Types of cutting
block cutting
` Pattern cutting
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Types ofCutting
Fully manual:
Hand operated scissor
Manually operated power knife:Straight knife
Band knife
Round knife
Die cutting
NotcherDrill
Computerized methods of fabric
cutting:
Computer controlled knife cutting
Cutting by Laser beam
Cutting by Water jetCutting by Plasma torch
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1.One Way Cutting
is when fabric is laid the same way up with grain or print pattern running in
the same direction. Fabric has to be cut at the end of each ply.
2. Fact to Face Cutting
is when the plies are laid in pairs face to face. The grain or pattern runs in
the same direction.
3. Two Way Cutting
is when plies are laid continuously from
left to right and right to left without cutting at the end.
Most Efficient method of spreading. Cannot be usedwith grain restrictions or one directional printed fabric.
QUALITYCONTROL BEFORE SPREADING
The inspector should receive a swatch of lab-dip approval to evaluate the
correctness of GSM, Construction and shade of fabric.Lab report for shading, color fastness, crocking, and all other tests
(spectrophotometer, delta-e, shrinkage, torque effect, pilling and performance) should
be received.
Color continuity should be established by making a color continuity swatch card.
Shade blankets should be made to evaluate shading after washing.
Lots should be segregated according to width of fabric (according to marker width).
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Thank you.