Martha Stewartâ€™s Vegetables: Inspired Recipes and Tips for Choosing, Cooking, and Enjoying...

Tothenumerousexcellentprofessionalseedcompanies,whosecatalogsandseedspermitustolearnaboutandto

growextraordinaryvegetables.

Andtoseed-savingindividualsandorganizations,whoaremaintainingessentialbiodiversity—soimportanttokeepingthe“business”ofvegetablesandvegetable-

growinginterestingandinspiring.

CONTENTS

RECIPESBYCHAPTERFOREWORD

GARLIC

ONIONS

SCALLIONS

SHALLOTS

SPRINGONIONS

THEBASICS

THERECIPES

CARROTS

CELERYROOT

JICAMA

PARSNIPS

RADISHES

RUTABAGA

SALSIFY

TURNIPS

THEBASICS

THERECIPES

TUBERS

JERUSALEMARTICHOKES

POTATOES

SWEETPOTATOES

THEBASICS

THERECIPES

GREENS

BEETGREENS

BOKCHOY

BROCCOLIRABE

COLLARDS

MUSTARDGREENS

TURNIPGREENS

THEBASICS

THERECIPES

STALKS&STEMS

ASPARAGUS

CELERY

FENNEL

KOHLRABI

RHUBARB

THEBASICS

THERECIPES

EDAMAME

ENGLISHPEAS

FAVABEANS

GREENBEANS

SHELLBEANS

SNAPPEAS

SNOWPEAS

THEBASICS

THERECIPES

SHOOTS

FIDDLEHEADFERNS

MICROGREENS

PEASHOOTS

SPROUTS

THEBASICS

THERECIPES

LEAVES

CABBAGES

CHICORIES

ENDIVES

LETTUCES

SPINACH

SPRINGANDWILDGREENS

THEBASICS

THERECIPES

FLOWERS&BUDS

ARTICHOKES

BROCCOLI

BRUSSELSSPROUTS

CAULIFLOWER

CHIVEBLOSSOMS

EDIBLEFLOWERS

SQUASHBLOSSOMS

THEBASICS

THERECIPES

FRUITS

AVOCADOS

CUCUMBERS

EGGPLANTS

PEPPERSANDCHILES

SUMMERSQUASHES

TOMATILLOS

TOMATOES

WINTERSQUASHES

THEBASICS

THERECIPES

KERNELS

THEBASICS

THERECIPES

PHOTOCREDITSACKNOWLEDGMENTSABOUTTHEAUTHOR

RECIPESBYCHAPTER

BULBSFour-OnionSoupwithGinger

SpaghettiwithMussels,Lemon,andShallots

RoastChickenwithOnions,Shallots,Garlic,andScapes

IsraeliCouscouswithParsleyandShallots

Beer-BatteredOnionRings

Normandy-StyleChickenandLeekswithCrèmeFraîche

PastaCarbonarawithLeeksandLemon

RoastedSalmonandSpringOnions

PickledRamps

GrilledRampswithRomesco

SteamedBlackBasswithGingerandScallions

RiceNoodleswithScallionsandHerbs

Garlic-ScapeToasts

Green-GarlicButter

Herb-and-ScallionBreadPudding

GazpachoAjoBlanco

CreamyGarlic,Parsley,andFetaDressing

ROOTSRoastedBeetandPotatoBorscht

SesameCarrotSlaw

BeetSaladwithGingerDressing

BeetRisottowithBeetGreens

SpicyCarrotSoup

CeleryRootandPotatoRösti

RoastedCarrotsandQuinoawithMisoDressing

Jicama-CitrusSalad

RainbowCarrotsandChard

LacqueredShortRibswithCeleryRootPurée

LeekandParsnipSoup

SalsifyGratin

RadishTartine

RoastedRadisheswithCapersandAnchovies

MoroccanVegetableSoup

Rutabaga-AppleMash

TurnipSaladwithBaconVinaigrette

BrisketwithParsnipsandCarrots

RoastedRutabagaandBrusselsSprouts

CarrotFries

SpicedParsnipCupcakeswithCreamCheeseFrosting

TUBERSPotatoSalad,ThreeWays

PotatoGnocchi

Mrs.Kostyra’sMashedPotatoes

Salt-BakedPotatoes,Shallots,andChestnuts

LambStewwithJerusalemArtichokes

Tartiflette

Twice-CookedPotatoandLeekCasserole

YukonGoldandSweetPotatoesAnna

SalmonChowder

RoastedPorkChopswithSweetPotatoesandApples

PotatoYeastedRolls,TwoWays

GREENSSesameGreens

SwissChard,Cabbage,andBrusselsSproutsSalad

FriedRicewithCollardGreens

StuffedCollardGreens

Mustard-GreensPesto

Mustard-GreensCaesarSalad

SkilletPizzawithGreensandEggplant

CaldoVerde

KaleChipswithBalsamicGlaze

Kale-RicottaDip

SwissChardLasagna

BokChoySaladwithCashews

BabyBokChoywithChile,Garlic,andGinger

BroccoliRabeandHamCroqueMonsieurs

KaleandAvocadoSaladwithDates

Chard-TomatoSauté

OrecchiettewithBroccoliRabeandTomatoes

STALKS&STEMSSteamedAsparagus,ThreeWays

Egg,Asparagus,andMushroomStir-Fry

AsparagusandPotatoFlatbread

RhubarbChutneywithPorkRoast

Asparagus,Artichoke,andFarroSalad

FennelandSmokedSalmonSalad

ClamPanRoastwithFennelandSausage

Celery,Cilantro,andAlmondSalad

BraisedCelery

PODSBlanchedSugarSnapPeas,ThreeWays

RisieBisi

Green-PeaBurgerswithHarissaMayo

CranberryBeanSaladwithDelicataSquashandBroccoliRabe

SkilletEdamame,Corn,andTomatoeswithBasilOil

RoastedWaxBeanswithPeanutsandCilantro

GreenBean,ShellBean,andSweetOnionFattoush

WhiteBeanswithDandelionGreensandCrostini

GrilledFavaBeans

CreamyFavaBeans

BeefandSnap-PeaStir-Fry

GreenBeanandWatercressSalad

TempuraGreenBeans

Quick-PickledPods

SHOOTSSesameSalmonwithShiitakeMushroomsandShoots

FiddleheadandPotatoHashwithEggs

KaleandLentilBowlwithSprouts

SautéedSnowPeasandPeaShoots

Avocado-and-SproutClubSandwiches

PadThai

LEAVESWatercressandAsparagusPizza

EndiveandFennelSalad

ShreddedNapaCabbageSalad

PorkScaloppinewithRadicchio

SpinachandFontinaStrata

GardenGreenswithChoppedEggs

SpinachandGarlicSoup

EscaroleandBeanSoup

FriséeandRoastedPearSalad

BabyGreenswithPineNutsandPancetta

ArugulaandStoneFruitSaladwithBalsamicLambChops

FigandArugulaCrostini

CharredRomaineSalad

Free-FormLasagnawithEdibleWeeds

BraisedRedCabbage

CreamedGreenCabbage

FriedChickenwithPuntarelleSalad

MiniAsianMeatballsinLettuceCups

FLOWERS&BUDSNasturtiumSaladwithArtichokesandAsparagus

BucatiniwithCauliflower,Capers,andLemon

Oven-FriedBabyArtichokes

SmokyBrusselsSproutsGratin

BroiledStripedBasswithCauliflowerandCapers

RoastedCauliflowerwithHerbSauce

CrispedBrusselsSproutLeaves

Squash-BlossomFrittata

GoatCheesewithEdibleFlowersandArugula

Broccoli,Shrimp,andShiitakeStir-Fry

BraisedChickenandBrusselsSprouts

CapelliniwithChiveBlossoms

RoastedBroccoliwithGratedManchego

FRUITSPastawithMarinatedHeirloomTomatoes

BlisteredEggplantwithTomatoes,Olives,andFeta

MisoEggplant

BreadedEggplantwithArugulaandParmesan

TomatoandMangoSalad

Zucchini-ScallionFritters

PastawithZucchini,Mint,andPecorino

ZucchiniQuickBread

SkilletSteakPeperonata

PickledJalapeñosandCucumbers

BlisteredPadrónPepperswithSeaSalt

WholeBakedTroutwithCherryTomatoesandPotatoes

Zucchini“Pasta”Primavera

RoastedBellPeppers

TomatilloandChipotleSalsa

ChilesRellenos

Cucumber,Mango,andShrimpEscabèche

ChilledMelon,Cucumber,andMintSoup

StuffedTomatoeswithMozzarella

SalmonandAvocadoTartines

PistachioGuacamole

Roasted-TomatoHandPies

ButternutSquashandTaleggioPizza

RoastedAcornSquash,ThreeWays

ButternutSquashandKaleHash

KERNELSGrilledCorn,withThreeToppings

CornandScallionChilaquiles

CornSoup

HatchChileCornPudding

CornmealShortcakeswithCornIceCreamandBlueberryCompote

FOREWORD

WhenIthinkaboutvegetables,inthecontextofa“subjectmatter,”sayforabooksuchasthis,IthinkoftheprovocativebookbyLynneTruss:Eats,Shoots&Leaves.Thatbook,onthesubjectofpunctuationandgrammar,hastheeffectofmakingonewanttorearrangethetitletoEatsShoots&Leaves,whichofcoursehasanentirelydifferentmeaning.Italsobringstomindafewcategoriesofvegetables.Roots,Shoots&Leaves,infact,couldhavebeenthetitleofthisbook.

Thisbookisaboutallkindsofvegetables,anditisfullofallkindsofrecipeswe’vedevelopedtopreparethosevegetablesinthemostsavoryanddelightfulways.EveryoneinthekitchensofMarthaStewartLivingcontributedtothecontent,andtheexpertiseofoureditorsisevidentonpageafterpage—inthechoosingofthetypesofvegetables,indeterminingtheappropriatefreshnessofthosedeliciousgiftsfromgardenandfarm,andintheservingandenjoyingofevensomeveryusualvarieties.

Therearealmostinfinitewaystoenjoyvegetables,andwehavedividedtheedibleplantworldintobigchapterstolureyouintotryingandexperimentinginmanydifferentwayswithbulbs,roots,tubers,leaves,shoots,kernels,pods,stalksandstems,greens,flowersandbuds,andevenfruits.Whyfruits?Tomatoes,eggplants,peppers,cucumbers,avocados,zucchini,andothersquashesareall,botanically,fruits.Thescientificreasonfordividinginthiswayisnotverycomplicated,anditisfascinatingtothinkabouteach“vegetable”andlearnthecorrecttaxonomy.

Children,asmuchasadults,arefascinatedwithsuchdistinctions,anditistruethatcooksandourculinarytraditionshavecloudedthecategories.Inanyevent,therecipesinthisbooktreatbothvegetablesandfruitsin

anyevent,therecipesinthisbooktreatbothvegetablesandfruitsindelicious,savory,memorableways.Enjoyasmanyoftheserecipesasyoucan.

GARLIC

ONIONS

SCALLIONS

SHALLOTS

SPRINGONIONS

As Julia Child wrote, “It’s hard to imagine a civilizationwithoutonions.”Openanycookbookandyou’llseeshe’sright.Alliums (the botanical genus includes edible bulbs such asshallots, garlic, onions, and ramps, plus those with edibleleaves like leeks, scallions, and chives) seasonmany favoritedishes.Andthankstotheproliferationoffarmers’markets,wenow have access to a wider range of these aromatic gems.What’smore, inmany places, early varieties start appearingweeks after the thaw. Clearly, these bulbs are worthcelebrating.But,becausetheyareubiquitous,longlasting,andfairlycheap,wehavetheluxuryoftakingthemforgranted.

Like other underground vegetables, including roots andtubers, bulbs of the allium family stockpile the energy andnutrients absorbed from the sun and earth. But bulbs storethem primarily as sugars, not carbohydrates, which mayexplainwhytheygotosuchlengthstodefendtheirtreasures.Inside each cell, thanks to one of nature’s most brilliantdefense systems, sulfur compounds are kept segregated fromthe enzymes that trigger them, divided by thinmembranes;when the cells are broken—when you slice or bite into anonion, for example—the chemicals combine, creating thevolatilegasesthatcanmakeyoucry.

Sulfur and sugar: the harsh married to the sweet. It is precisely thisintriguing balance that makes bulbs so delicious—and essential. Thesealliumslendaframeworktootherflavors,bringingstructureandflavortodishes—andperhapsevencivilizations—theworldover.

THEBASICS

SEASONALITYBecauseonionsandgarlicareavailableyear-round,it’seasytothinktheydon’thaveaseason.Butspringiswhentheypushtheirtendergreenshootsupfromtheearthandbeginforminganewgenerationofbulbsbelow.FromMarchthroughMay,seekouttenderyoungonions,garlic,andtheirkinatfarmers’markets—allaremildandexcellenteatenraw.

Sweetonions,suchasWallaWalla,andstorageonionsarelefttocontinuegrowingundergroundthroughthesummerandintofall;youcanalsofindexcellentexamplesoftheseatfarmers’markets.Forgarlictoproducetheclovesweallknowandlove,theflowerbuds,orscapes,mustbeharvestedinspring.Greengarlic,whichcouldbemistakenforanovergrownscallion,hasamildflavorthat’sbrighterandfreshertastingthanregularcloves.Andluckyforus,thesespringtimedelicaciesarereadilyavailableatfarmers’marketsandspecialtygrocersduringthespringandearlysummer.

Ramps,alsoknownaswildleeks,areforagedfromshaded,woodyareasupanddowntheEastCoast,fromGeorgiatoCanada,andareheraldedfortheirgarlickyflavor.Theirmanyfanseagerlyawaittheirfirstappearanceatfarmers’markets,whereyoucanfindthemfromMarchthroughearlyJune(thoughyoucanalsocultivateyourown).

BUYINGCommononionsandgarlicare“cured”—harvestedwhenfullymature,thendriedforstorage.Hardinessiskeywhenselectingthesevegetables,soatthemarket,givethema(verygentle)squeeze.Also,avoidbruisesandmold,andshundampness—theskinsshouldbepaperyanddry.Selectyellowonionsforlongbraisesandhigh-heatcooking;theyhavethestrongest,richestflavor,andwillholdupnomatterwhatthey’repairedwith.Whiteonionsareslightlymilder,andcommoninMexicanandSouthAmericandishes.Tamerstillareredonions,withatouchofsweetness,makingthemthebestchoiceforsalads,sandwiches,andotherdisheswherethey’llbeeatenraw.Amongthefirstvegetablestoappearatfarmers’marketsafterthe

beeatenraw.Amongthefirstvegetablestoappearatfarmers’marketsafterthesnowmelts,young,green-leafedbulbs—includingscallionsandramps,aswellasspringonionsandgarlicscapes—areawelcomesight;lookforbuncheswhosegreensarefirmandstiff,theirbulbsbrightandglossy.

NOTABLEVARIETIESOnions:White,yellow,andredaregrocery-storestaples,butit’sworthseekingoutVidaliaandWallaWallaonions,thesweetestonesofall(especiallywhengrowninsulfur-freesoil,wheretheyabsorbnoneofthesharpnesscommontoothervarieties).Springonions,plantedinthefallandharvestedbeforethebulbshavehadachancetogrow(inearlyspring,hencetheirname),canbefoundatfarmstandsstartinginMarch;theyaremilderandsweeterthanstorageonionswhencooked,withanotablespicinessthatmakesthemwonderfulforgrillingandpickling.Theyresemblescallionsbuthavealargerbulb.

Scallions:Lookforpurple-bulbvarietiesinthespring;theyhavethesameflavoraswhiteones,butmakeaprettygarnish.

Garlic:Thegarlicsoldingrocerystoresisintendedforlongstorageratherthanflavor,makingitworththetriptothefarmers’markettofindothervarietiesthatareusuallyonlyavailablefromsmallgrowers.Theselocalheadsshouldhavelargerclovesandamorepronouncedflavor.Theyaresometimessoldstillonthestalks,andsomehavepurplestripesorareddishhue.

STORINGDark,cool,anddryishowcuredbulbslikeit,sostoreonions,shallots,andgarliconanout-of-thewayshelforinacabinet.Lightcausesthemtosprout,generatinggreentendrilswithinthatdrawnutrientsandflavorfromthebulb;moisturecancausemoldtoformbeneaththeskin(whichcanbewipedoff)orbetweenthelayersofthebulb(whereitcan’tbe).Leeks,springonions,ramps,andscallions,meanwhile,shouldberefrigerated,looselywrappedinaplasticbag,andusedwithinafewdays.

PREPPINGLearningtocutonionsquicklyandskillfullyisoneofthesmartestthingsnovice

cookscandotomakekitchenlifemoreagreeable.Removethepaperyskin(it’scalledthetunic!),andunlessyouwantrings,slicetheonioninhalffromtoptoroot.Layeachhalfflatontheboardandsliceintothebulbfirstlengthwise(leavingrootintact),thencrosswise.Ifyouplantoserveonionsraw—inasalad,say,oronasandwich—youmaywanttofirstsoakthepiecesforfivetotenminutesinanice-waterbathtoremovethesulfurcompoundsgeneratedoncutsurfaces,orgivethemabriefsoakinvinegar.Forgarlic,removethepapersheathbygentlycrushingeachclovewiththesideofaknifeblade,thenpulloffthepaper;removeanygreen“germ”fromthecloves,astheseareverybitter.

Leeks,ramps,scallions,andgreengarlicoftenneedtohavetheirtunicspeeledaway,too—andasthesearefragileandclingy,theymayrequirescrapingwiththeedgeofaparingknife.Thencutawaythescruffyrootsandsliceifneeded,separatingthestronger-flavoredwhitepartsfromthegreen,ifthereciperequires(mostdo).Leeksholdontoalotofgritintheirmanythicklayers;cutthemasdirectedinarecipe,thensubmergeinabowlofcoldwaterandswishthoroughly.Liftouttheleeks,andrepeatuntilyoudon’tseeanymoregritinthewater.Drainanddryifsautéingorroasting.

COOKINGWithahighproportionofsugars,onionstakewelltobeingcaramelized.Indeed,youcangrillorroastthemuntilnearlyblackbeforetheirflavorisruined.Buttheyareequallyhappycookedlowandslow—gentlysautéedinbutteroroliveoil,oroven-braisedinaskillet.Thesearealsothebestmethodsforcookingdelicate-flavoredleeks,ramps,andscallions,whichalltakewelltoaquickpassthroughahotflame,givingthemadramaticcharredflavorthatpairswellwithmeat.Rampsareexcellentmixedintopestosandcompoundbutters;sautéedandtossedwithspaghettiorservedoversoftpolenta;ortreatedlikeherbsandtuckedundertheskinofchickenbeforeroasting.

Aswithonions,garlic’smultiplepersonalitiesarehighlightedbydifferentcookingtechniques:Minceorsmashrawclovestoaddanassertivebitetosaladdressings,pestos,salsasandrelishes,andno-cookpastasauces;sautéthemuntilpalegoldeninbutteroroilforaflavorthat’smildandmellow;roastawholeheadintheovenuntilitturnsmahoganybrownforclovesthatarebutterysoft,rich,sweet,andearthy—andthenspreadthepasteonbread,tossitwithpasta,orincorporateitintodipsandsauces.

HOWTOROAST(Forallbulbs)Peelonionsandshallots;quarteronions,leavingwedgesintact,andseparateshallots(halvelargerones,ifdesired).Trimscallions,leeks,springonions,greengarlic,andramps;leavewholeorcutcrosswiseinto2-inchpieces(washleekswell).Placeonarimmedbakingsheet,drizzlewitholiveoil,andseasonwithsaltandpepper.Strewonionsandshallotswithfreshthymeorrosemary,ifdesired.Spreadinanevenlayerandroastat400°F,tossingonceortwice,untiltenderandbrownedinspots,15to20minutes.Drizzlewithvinegar(balsamic,cider,sherry,orwhitewine),andsprinklewithherbs.

(Forgarliccloves)Separategarliccloves,andplaceonarimmedbakingsheet.Drizzlewitholiveoil,seasonwithsaltandpepper,andtosstocoat.Roastat400°Funtilskinsaredeepgoldenbrownandfleshisverytender,20to30minutes.Whencoolenoughtohandle,slipoutofskins,anduseindressingsorsauces,orspreadoncrostini.

(Forwholegarlic)Sliceofftopquarterofgarlichead,exposingasmanyclovesaspossible,withaserratedknife.Drizzlewitholiveoilandseasonwithsaltandpepper;topwithfreshthyme,ifdesired.Wrapinparchment,thenfoil,sealingtoformapacket.Roastat400°Funtilclovesaregoldenandverysoft,50to60minutes.Whencoolenoughtohandle,squeezeheadfrombottomtopushoutcloves.Stirintomashedpotatoes,whiskintovinaigrettes,orspreadonsandwiches.

HOWTOGRILL(Foronions,scallions,leeks,springonions,greengarlic,ramps)Peelonion,cutallthewaythroughrootendinto8wedges(keepwedgesintact),orsliceinto½-inch-thickrounds.Trimscallions,springonions,greengarlic,andramps.Trimleeks,halvelengthwise,andwashwell.Tosswitholiveoil,andseasonwithsaltandpepper.Cookonamedium-hotgrill,turningasneeded,untiltenderandlightlycharredinspots,10to20minutes.Sprinklewithfreshlemonjuiceorred-wineorsherryvinegar,drizzlewithmoreoil,andtopwithchoppedfreshherbs(parsley,mint,orbasil).

(Forshallots)Peelandhalveorquartershallots,leavingwedgesintact.Threadontoskewers;drizzlewitholiveoil,andseasonwithsaltandpepper.Cookoveramedium-hotgrill,turningasneeded,untiltenderandlightlycharredinspots,45to50minutes.Drizzlewithred-wineorsherryvinegarwhilestillwarm.

withred-wineorsherryvinegarwhilestillwarm.

HOWTOBRAISE(Forallbulbs)Peelonionsandshallotsandtrimroots,leavingbulbsintact.Halveorquarteronions,leavingwedgesintact;halveshallots.Trimscallions,springonions,greengarlic,andramps;leavewholeorcuttofitintoskillet.Trimleeks,halvelengthwise,andwashwell.Heatbutteroroliveoilinalargecast-iron(orotherovenproof)skilletovermedium.Addbulbs,seasonwithsaltandpepper,andsautéuntilgoldenbrown,2to5minutesoneachside.Addenoughbraisingliquid(chickenorvegetablebrothorwater,oracombination)tocoverandafewsprigsofthyme,ifdesired.Coverandcookina350°Fovenuntiltender,30to50minutes.Toglazethebulbs,removefoil,raiseovenheatto450°F,andcontinuecookinguntilliquidreduces,thickens,andcoatsvegetables,10to15minutesmore.

FLAVORPAIRINGSOnionsareusedinsuchawidevarietyofdishes,itwouldbealmostquickertolistthethingstheydon’tgowiththanthosetheydo.Garlic,too,lendscharactertoanastonishingrangeofpreparations.Shallotscanbesubstitutedforeitherinapinch;theirmild,sweetflavormakesthemaclassicinsaladdressings.Scallionsandespeciallyrampsintroducespicy,fresh,green,almostherbalnotes.

GARLIC:chicken,lamb,rosemary,tomato,lemon,feta,ginger,soysauce,mushroomsONIONS:chicken,meat,cheese,beer,wine,mustard,vinegar,ginger,thyme,nuts,greensRAMPS:asparagus,eggs,mint,morels,vinegar,lentils,potatoes,fish,ParmesanSCALLIONS:ginger,garlic,rice,eggs,bittergreens,butter,parsley,rice,tomatoesSHALLOTS:butter,tarragon,mustard,garlic,saladgreens,vinegar,fish,driedfruitSWEETONIONS:goatcheese,bluecheese,basil,cayenne,nutmeg,ham

THERECIPES

Four-OnionSoupwithGinger

IsraeliCouscouswithParsleyandShallots

Beer-BatteredOnionRings

PastaCarbonarawithLeeksandLemon

RoastedSalmonandSpringOnions

PickledRamps

GrilledRampswithRomesco

RiceNoodleswithScallionsandHerbs

Garlic-ScapeToasts

Green-GarlicButter

Herb-and-ScallionBreadPudding

GazpachoAjoBlanco

CreamyGarlic,Parsley,andFetaDressing

1½11½

Four-OnionSoupwithGingerCaramelizedonionsarearemarkableflavorbooster.Slicedthintoexposealltheir

starches,onionsslowlysoften,turnadeepgoldenbrown,andbecomewonderfullysweet.Theyare,ofcourse,attheheartofFrenchonionsoup.Inthisupdateonthetraditionalrecipe,weroundouttheflavorswiththreetypesofonion—red,white,andyellow—and

combinethemwithanequalamountofshallotsandaniceamountoffreshginger.

SERVES6

tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil,plusmore

poundseachwhite,yellow,andredonions,thinlyslicedlengthwisepiece(3inches)freshginger,peeledandfinelyjuliennedpoundsshallots,thinlysliced

tablespoonsverythinlyslicedfreshsageleaves,pluswholeleavesforgarnishquartslow-sodiumchickenbroth

Coarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper

baguette,halvedlengthwiseandsliced

cupfinelygratedGruyèrecheese

1.Inalargehigh-sidedskillet,heatoilovermedium.Addonionsandginger;cook,stirringoccasionally,untilsoftandtranslucent,45minutes.Addshallotsandsage.Continuecooking,stirringoccasionallyasonionsreduce,untiltheyareverysoftandcaramelized,about1hour.(Addafewtablespoonsbrothorwatertoskilletifonionsstarttostick.)2.Preheatovento350°F.Pourbrothintoskillet,andbringtoaboil.Reduceheattoasimmer,andcook15minutesmore,stirringoccasionally.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.

3.Meanwhile,arrangebreadonabakingsheet;brushwithoil,seasonwithsaltandpepper,andsprinklewithcheese.Toastinovenuntilcheeseismeltedandgolden,about8minutes.

4.Whiletoastisinoven,heat2inchesoilinamediumsaucepanuntilshimmering.Frysageleavesuntiljustcrisp,15to20seconds;useaslotted

spoonorwireskimmertotransfertopapertowelstodrain.

5.Dividesoupamongsixbowls;garnishwithsageleaves,andservewithcheesetoasts.

TIPMakeabigbatchofcaramelizedonions,andstoretheminanairtightcontainerintherefrigeratoruptofivedays.Useasafillingforomelets,atoppingforburgersorsteaks,orasandwichspread.Theyarealsodelicioustossedwithpasta.

Shallotslackthebiteofonions,andofferamilder,sweeterflavorthat’sjustrightforsteamingmussels—atleastaccordingtoclassicFrenchpreparations.Inthatspirit,wecreatedabrothofshallots,red-pepperflakes,parsleystems,andwhitewine.Youcouldservethemusselswithrusticbread,butweusethemtomakea“sauce”forspaghetti.

SERVES6

poundspaghetti

Coarsesalt

cupplus2tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil

largeshallots,diced

teaspoonred-pepperflakes

cupfinelychoppedfreshflat-leafparsleystems,plus1cupcoarselychoppedleavescupdrywhitewine,suchasSauvignonBlanc

poundsmussels,scrubbedandbeardsremoved

lemon,zestedandjuiced

1.Cookspaghettiinapotofsaltedboilingwateruntilaldente,accordingtopackageinstructions.Reserve1½cupscookingwater;drainpasta.

2.Meanwhile,inanotherpot,heat¼cupoilovermediumhigh.Sautéshallots,red-pepperflakes,andparsleystemsuntiltender,stirringoccasionally,about5minutes.Addwine;cookuntilliquidisreducedbyone-third,stirringfrequently,about2minutes.Addmussels,coverwithatight-fittinglid,andsteamuntiltheyopen,5to6minutes(discardanyunopenedmussels).

3.Addpastatopot,tossinguntilwellcombined.Addreservedpastawater,andcontinuetotossandcookovermedium-highheatuntilsauce

hasreducedandcoatspasta.Removefromheat.Stirinparsleyleavesandlemonzestandjuice,thenremainingoil,andserveimmediately.

TIPTocleanmussels,rinsethemundercoldrunningwaterandscrubtheshellswithastiffspongeorvegetablebrush.Discardanythatarechippedoropen.Next,gripthetoughfibers(orbeard)extendingfromtheshellandtugtoremove.Rinseagainincoldwater,drain,andchilluntilreadytouse.

Roastingchickenonabedofonionsachievestwothings:theonionsimpartflavortothechicken,andtheybecomewonderfullydarkened.We’veincludedabunchofdifferentalliumsinthisotherwisestraightforwardrecipe,forahostofflavors:slicedredonion,wholeshallots,freshchives,andgarlicintwoforms(clovesandscapes).Allcanbe

enjoyedalongsidethechicken,withcrustybread.

SERVES4TO6

wholechicken(4to4½pounds)

bunchfreshoregano

redonion,thinlysliced

garliccloves,unpeeled

shallots,peeled

bunchesfreshchives

bunchesgarlicscapes

1.Preheatovento425°F.Seasonchickenalloverwithsaltandpepper.Tuckoreganointocavity.Scatteronion,garlic,shallots,chives,andscapesaroundaroastingpan.Placechicken,breastsideup,inpan,andtuckwingsunder.Tielegstogetherwithkitchentwine.

2.Roastchickenuntiljuicesrunclearandaninstant-readthermometerinsertedintothethickestpartofathigh(donottouchbone)reaches165°F,about1hour15minutes.Letrestfor10minutesbeforecarvingandserving.

TIPTrussingachickenencourageseven

cooking.Totrussachicken,placeitwithtailendclosesttoyouandtuckthewingtipsunder.Centeralongpieceoftwine,andrunitaroundtheneck;thenpassitoverthedrumsticks,andtuckitundertheirjoints.Crossingitovertheirjoints,tightentobringlegstogetherandplumpupthebreast.Wraponeendallthewayaroundthetailend,andtieintoaknot.

IsraeliCouscouswithParsleyandShallotsWhenyouwantamoresubtle(lesssweet)flavorthancaramelizedonions,trysautéingthinlyslicedshallotsovermedium-highheat;they’llsoftenandbrownafterjustafewminutes.Here,theshallotsaretossedwithcouscous,lemonjuice,andparsleytomakea

brightsidedishforchicken,pork,orfish,oranicepackablesaladforlunch.

SERVES4

cupIsraeli(pearl)couscous

tablespoonextra-virginoliveoil

shallots,halvedandthinlysliced

cuppackedfreshflat-leafparsleyleaves,coarselychoppedtablespoonfreshlemonjuice

1.Cookcouscousinapotofboilingsaltedwateruntilaldente,accordingtopackageinstructions.Drainandtransfertoabowl.

2.Meanwhile,heatoilinamediumskilletovermediumhigh.Addshallots;seasonwithsaltandpepper.Cook,stirringfrequently,untilbrowned,7to8minutes.Addtobowlwithcouscous.Addparsleyandlemonjuice,andtosstocombine.Seasonwithsaltandpepper,andserve.

Beer-BatteredOnionRingsThinlylayered,slightlyspicyyellowonionsareusedtomakethelight,crispringsatBalthazarinNewYorkCity.(Thisrecipeisadaptedfromtherestaurant’scookbook,

anditisMartha’shands-downfavorite.)Beerflavorsthebatterandaddsbody,thankstothebubbles.Bakingpowder,aleaveningagent,helpstoenlargethesebubblesasthe

batterfries.

SERVES6

cupsall-purposeflour

teaspooncoarsesalt,plusmoreforsprinkling

teaspoonfreshlygroundwhitepepper

teaspoonbakingpowder

cupbeer,preferablylagerorpilsner

tablespoonsicewater

Peanutoil,forfrying

mediumyellowonions,cutcrosswiseinto½-inch-thickslices,separatedintorings1.Whisktogether1cupflour,thesalt,whitepepper,andbakingpowderinabowl.Whiskinbeerandicewateruntilcombined.Placeremainingcupflourinashallowdish.

2.Preheatovento200°F,withabakingsheetonmiddlerack.Heat3inchesofoilto375°Finamediumpotovermediumhigh.Dredgeonionsinflour,turningtocoat;tapoffexcess.Workinginbatches(about8atatime),diponionsinbatter,shakingoffexcess.Carefullyaddtohotoil.Cookuntilgoldenbrown,2to3minutes.Transfertopapertowelstodrain.Sprinklewithsalt.Transfertobakingsheettokeepwarmwhilecookingremainingonions.Adjustheatasnecessarytokeepoilatasteadytemperature.Servehot.

LeeksgrowinabundanceinNormandy,innorthernFrance,wherethealliumsarecelebratedfortheirabilitytotransformeventhesimplestdishintosomething

spectacular.TakechickenNormande,amulti-layeredmaincourseofbraisedchicken,hardapplecider(anotherlocalspecialty),andofcourse,leeks.Servethiswithcrusty

bread.

SERVES4

wholechicken(about4pounds),cutinto10pieces(eachbreastcutinhalfcrosswise)Coarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper

tablespoonunsaltedbutter

teaspoonsoliveoil

smallleeks(whiteandpale-greenpartsonly),cutcrosswiseinto3-inchpieces,rinsedwell(about1pound)cupgood-qualityhardapplecider

tablespooncoarselychoppedfreshthymeleaves

cupcrèmefraîche

tablespoonfinelychoppedfreshflat-leafparsley

1.Seasonchickenalloverwithsaltandpepper.Meltthebutterwiththeoilinalargeenameledcast-ironDutchovenovermedium-highheatuntiljustbubbling.Addhalfthechickenpieces,skinsidedown;cook,turningonce,untilgolden,2to3minutesperside.Transferchickenpiecestoaplate.Repeatwithremainingchickenpieces;addtoplate.Removepotfromheat;letcoolslightly.

2.Returnpottomedium-lowheat,andaddleeks.Cook,stirringfrequently,untilleeksbegintosoftenandarepalegolden,about3minutes.Addhardciderandthyme.Moveleekstoedgesofpot,andaddallthechickenpiecestocenter,skinsidedown.Arrangeleeksover

chicken.Coverandcook15minutes(ifliquidisbubblingrapidly,reduceheattolow).Turnchickenpieces,andcookuntilbreastsarecookedthrough,about5minutesmore.Useaslottedspoontotransferchickenbreaststoaplate,andcovertokeepwarm.Adjustleekssotheyaresubmergedinliquid.Cook,uncovered,untiltheremainingchickenpiecesaretenderandcookedthrough,about10minutes.

3.Transferallthechickentoawarmservingplatter.Removeleeksfrompot,andarrangethemaroundthechicken.Covertokeepwarm.Returnpottomediumheat.Cook,uncovered,untilliquidhasreducedbyabouthalf(toascant⅔cup),8to10minutes.

4.Reduceheattomediumlow.Whiskinthecrèmefraîcheandparsley.Ladlepansauceoverchickenandleeks.Serveimmediately.

TIPRegularapplecideroradrywhitewine,suchasSauvignonBlanc,canbeusedinplaceofthehardcider.

PastaCarbonarawithLeeksandLemonWhenitcomestocarbonara,therearethosewhoadheretotheoriginalcombinationof

egg,guanciale(orbaconorpancettainitsplace),andgratedcheese,andthosewhofavoraddingheavycreamtothemix.Wesaythere’sroomforbothinyourrepertoire,

includingthisversionthat’senhancedwiththeflavorofsautéedleeks.Freshparsleyandlemonzestandjuiceaddbrightness.

SERVES4

slicesbacon,cutcrosswiseinto1-inchpieces

leeks(whiteandpale-greenpartsonly),halvedlengthwise,thinlysliced,rinsedwellCoarsesaltandgroundpepper

ouncesshortpasta,suchasgemelliorcampanelle

largeeggs

cupgratedParmigiano-Reggianocheese,plusmoreforservingtablespoonfinelygratedlemonzest,plus1tablespoonlemonjuicecupfreshflat-leafparsleyleaves,coarselychopped

1.Inalargeskillet,cookbaconovermedium,stirringoccasionally,untilcrisp,8to10minutes.Withaslottedspoon,transferbacontopapertowelstodrain.Pouroffallbut2tablespoonsfatfromskillet.Addleeks,seasonwithsaltandpepper,andcook,stirringoften,untilleeksaregoldenbrown,about10minutes.

2.Meanwhile,cookpastainapotofsaltedboilingwateruntilaldente,accordingtopackageinstructions.Inalargebowl,whisktogethereggs,cheese,andlemonzestandjuice.

3.Measureout¼cuppastawaterandwhiskintoeggmixture.Drainpastaandimmediatelyaddtoeggmixture,alongwithbacon,leeks,andparsley.Seasonwithsaltandpepper,andstirtocombine.Sprinklewithmorecheese,andserveimmediately.

RoastedSalmonandSpringOnionsBecauseofwhentheyarriveinthemarket,springonionsareoftenpairedwithother

seasonalproduce,includingasparagusandpeas,andashere,withwildsalmon,whoseseasonkicksoffinApril.Thespringonionsareroasteduntilgoldenbrown;unlike

storageonionsandshallots,theydon’tsoftensomuchasbecometenderandchewy,anicetexturalcontrasttothesalmon.Amint-almond-caperpestoisservedalongside.

SERVES8TO10

cupextra-virginoliveoil

poundsspringonions,trimmedandhalvedlengthwise

piece(3pounds)skinlesssalmonfillet,preferablywildPacificcupslightlypackedfreshmintleaves

tablespoonssliveredblanchedalmonds,toasted

cupplus2tablespoonscapers,rinsedanddrained

Flakyseasalt,suchasMaldon,forsprinkling

lemons,cutintowedges,forserving

1.Preheatovento400°F,withracksinupperandlowerthirds.Coattworimmedbakingsheetswith1tablespoonoileach.Divideonionsbetweenbakingsheetsanddrizzleeachwith2tablespoonsoil;seasongenerouslywithcoarsesaltandpepper.Roastuntilbottomsofonionsaregoldenbrown,25to30minutes,rotatingsheetsfromtoptobottomhalfwaythrough.Removefromoven;reducetemperatureto325°F.Letonionscool,thencombineononesheet.

2.Placesalmonontopofonions.Brushwith2tablespoonsoilandseasonwithcoarsesaltandpepper.Roastonlowerrackofovenuntilpartiallyopaqueincenter,about20minutes.

3.Meanwhile,combineremaining½cupoil,themint,almonds,capers,

¾teaspooncoarsesalt,and½teaspoonpepperinaminifoodprocessororblender,andpuréemixtureuntilsmooth.

4.Removesalmonandonionsfromoven;carefullytransfertoaservingplatter.Sprinklewithseasalt;servewithlemonwedgesandmint-caperpesto.

PickledRampsOneofthemostpopularwaystopreservetheflavoroframpsispickling.Thebrinefor

theseisinfusedwithcorianderandfennelseedsandthyme.Servetherampsasanaccompanimenttoroastedmeats,onacheeseboard,ortogarnishacocktail.

MAKESABOUT2CUPS

cupwhite-winevinegar

cupsugar

teaspoonscoarsesalt

teaspooncorianderseeds

teaspoonfennelseeds

teaspoonwholeblackpeppercorns

Pinchofred-pepperflakes

sprigsthyme

cupswater

bunchramps,trimmedandrinsedwell

1.Stirtogetherthevinegar,sugar,salt,corianderseeds,fennelseeds,peppercorns,red-pepperflakes,thyme,andthewaterinamediumsaucepan.Bringtoaboil.Addramps;returntoaboil.Reduceheatandsimmeruntiltender,5to7minutes.

2.Removefromheat,andletrampscoolcompletelyintheliquid,about1½hours,beforestoringorserving.(Pickledrampscanberefrigeratedintheirliquidinanairtightcontainerupto1month.)

GrilledRampswithRomescoTheintensewildflavoroframpsmakesthemexcellentcandidatesforgrilling.Plus,the

bulbsholdtheirshapebeautifully,whilethegreenswiltjustenoughtobetender.WeespeciallylovegrilledrampsservedwithasmearofSpanishromescosauce,richwith

thesmokyflavorofroastedpiquillopeppers.

SERVES4TO6

cupblanchedalmonds,toasted

garlicclove

jar(10ounces)roastedpiquillochiles,drained

cupplus3tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil,plusmoreforgrillteaspoonssherryvinegar

bunchesramps

1.Pulsealmondsandgarlicinafoodprocessoruntilcoarselyground.Addchiles,¼cupoil,andthevinegar;puréeuntilsmooth.Storeromescosauceinrefrigerator,covered,upto1day;bringtoroomtemperaturebeforeserving.

2.Heatgrilltomediumhigh.Trimanddiscardthetinyrootsfromtheramps.

3.Placerampsonarimmedbakingsheet.Drizzlewithremaining3tablespoonsoil,andtosstocoat.Seasonwithsaltandpepper,andtosstocombine.Brushhotgrateswithoil.Arrangerampsongrillinasinglelayer.Grilluntilhotandcharredinspots,about1minuteperside.Transfertoaplatter.Servewarmoratroomtemperature,withromesco.

Here,amixtureofaromaticscallionsandfreshgingerisstuffedintothecavityofawholefishasitsteams,andtherestisspreadontop,forunbeatableflavorallaround

(redonionisalsousedtolinethesteamerbasket).Redsnapperortroutisagoodalternativetoblackbass.Servewithcookedriceorricenoodles.

SERVES2

cuplow-sodiumsoysauce

tablespoonplus1½teaspoonstoastedsesameoil

wholeblackbass(each1½to2poundsand1½inchesthick),scaledandgutted,gillsremovedpiece(2inches)peeledfreshginger,cutintomatchsticksscallions,halvedlengthwise,andcutinto2-to4-inchpieces;plusmore,chopped,forsaucelargeredonion,sliced½inchthick

1.Whisktogethersoysauceandsesameoilina9-by-13-inchbakingdish.Cutafewslitsintothefishonbothsidesusingasharpparingknife.Transferevenlytodish;turntocoatfish.

2.Tossgingerwithscallions;stuffsomeintoeachfishcavity.Spreadremainingmixtureontopoffish.Letstand,covered,spooningmarinadeoverfishoften,for30minutes.

3.Bringabout2cupswatertoaboilinalargeskilletorwok.Arrangeredoniononbottomlayerofa12-inchbamboosteamer.Removefishfrommarinadewithginger-scallionmixturestillontop,andarrangesidebysideononion;reservemarinade.Setsteamerinskillet.Steam,covered,untilfishiscookedthroughandvegetablesaretender,about15minutes.

4.Meanwhile,bringmarinadetoaboilinasmallsaucepan.Cookuntilreducedbyhalf.Strainthroughafinesieve;addchoppedscallions.Servefishandvegetableswithsauce.

TIPIfyoudon’thaveabamboosteamer,youcanarrangethefishsidebysideinasteamerbasketsetinapotfilledwithoneinchofwater.

RiceNoodleswithScallionsandHerbsThisrecipedemonstrateshowtheoften-discardeddarkgreenpartsofthescallioncanaddgreattasteandcolortoadish.ThisistrueoflotsofAsianrecipes,wherescallionsareusedalongwithgarlicandfreshginger,andwhichofteninvolvebriefcookingat

most(thinkstir-fries).Here,scalliongreensarecookedforameretenseconds,justlongenoughtoreleasetheirflavorandmakethemabitmoretender.

SERVES4

ouncesricevermicelli

cupwater

cupfishsauce,suchasnamplaornuocnam

tablespoonsfreshlimejuice(from2to3limes)

tablespoonspackedlight-brownsugar

teaspoonslicedfreshredchile,preferablyThaibirdchilecupsaffloweroil

garlicclove,minced

scallions(dark-greenpartsonly),thinlysliced

largeleavesBostonorBibblettuce,verythinlyslicedmediumcarrot,peeledandjulienned

cupeachlightlypackedfreshmintandbasilleaves,tornintosmallpieces1.Bringapotofwatertoaboil.Cookvermicelli,stirringoccasionally,justuntiltender,about4minutes.Drain,thenrinsewithcoldwater.Letvermicellidrainincolanderfor30minutes,tossingoccasionally.

2.Meanwhile,combinethewater,fishsauce,limejuice,brownsugar,andchileinasmallbowl.

3.Heatoilinaskilletovermedium.Addgarlicandscallions,andcook,stirring,for10seconds.Removefromheat.

4.Tossscallionmixtureandsaucewithnoodlesinaservingbowl.Addlettuce,carrot,andherbs,andtosstocombine.

Garlic-ScapeToastsScapesareslightlyspicyand,alongwithfreshchives,makealovelytoppingfortoastsspreadwithbutter.Theycanalsobeusedasasubstituteforramps—inotherwords,

pickled,grilled,andusedinpestosandpastadishes.

SERVES6TO8

baguette,sliced½inchthick

tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,roomtemperature

garlicscapes,cutonthebias

tablespoonscoarselysnippedfreshchives

Heatgrilltomediumhigh.Toastbaguettehalves,cutsidedown,ongrilluntilgoldenbrown.Dividingevenly,spreadbutterontoasts,thentop

untilgoldenbrown.Dividingevenly,spreadbutterontoasts,thentopwithscapesandchives,seasonwithsaltandpepper,andserve.

Green-GarlicButterGreengarlicmixedwithsoftenedbutter,Parmesan,andchivesmakesacompound

butterthatisasversatileascanbe.Here,it’smeltedatopsteak,withheartsofromainealongside;tryitoverscrambledeggs,steamedasparagus,orboilednewpotatoes.

SERVES4

cup(1stick)unsaltedbutter,roomtemperature

cupgratedParmigiano-Reggianocheese

tablespoonschoppedyounggreengarlicstalks(whiteandgreenparts)garlicclove,halved

tablespoonsnippedfreshchives

Fineseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper

Inabowl,mixtogetherbutter,Parmesan,bothgarlics,chives,¼teaspooneachsaltandblackpepper,andthered-pepperflakesuntilcombined.Green-garlicbuttercanberefrigerated,covered,upto1weekorfrozenupto3months.Serveatroomtemperature.

10½¼

Herb-and-ScallionBreadPuddingAfulltwobunchesofscallions—whitebulbs,pale-greenparts,anddark-greentops—gointothissavorysidedish.Weuseacombinationofparsley,sage,andthyme,butotherherbs(chervil,oregano,andmarjoram)wouldalsowork.ConsideraddingthistoyourThanksgivingmenu,ortoaccompanycrownroastorbeeftenderloinatChristmas—or

withroastchicken,fornooccasionatall.

SERVES8

cupscubedday-oldchallahorbrioche,in1-inchcubes(from1or2loaves)cuppackedfreshflat-leafparsleyleaves,coarselychoppedcuppackedfreshsageleaves,coarselychopped

tablespoonsfreshthymeleaves,coarselychopped

tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,plusmoreforbakingdishcelerystalks,coarselychopped

garliccloves,minced

bunchesscallions,thinlysliced

largeeggs,lightlybeaten

cupslow-sodiumchickenbroth

cupsheavycream

1.Combinebreadcubes,parsley,sage,andthymeinalargebowl.Melt4tablespoonsbutterinalargeskilletovermedium-highheat.Reduceheattomedium.Cookceleryandgarlicwithapinchofsaltuntilceleryistender,10to12minutes.Addscallionsandcookuntiltenderbutstillbrightgreen,about4minutes.Pourmixtureintobowlwithbread,andstir.Letcool.

2.Preheatovento325°F.Buttera3-quartroundbakingdish(2to3inchesdeep)ora9-by-13-inchbakingdish.Whisktogethereggs,broth,andheavycream,andseasonwithsaltandpepper.Pouroverbreadmixture,tossinguntilbreadisevenlysoaked.Transfertobakingdish,

pressingintocorners,anddottopwithremainingtablespoonbutter.

3.Bakeuntiltoppuffsandcenterisset,about1hour.Letcoolslightlybeforeserving.

GazpachoAjoBlancoAjoblanco(“whitegarlic”)isatomato-freegazpachofromMalaga,onSpain’s

southerncoast.Garlicclovesarebrieflyboiledtosoftenandmellowbeforebeingpuréedwiththeotheringredients,includingalmonds.GrapesandMarconaalmondsgarnish

eachserving.

SERVES6

cupscubedcrustlessday-oldrusticbread

garliccloves

cupsblanchedalmonds

teaspoonssherryvinegar

cupextra-virginoliveoil,plusmorefordrizzling

SlicedredseedlessgrapesandchoppedMarconaalmonds,forserving

1.Soakbreadinwaterfor15minutes.Covergarlicwithwaterinasaucepan,andbringtoaboil.Cookfor3minutes;drain.

2.Pulseblanchedalmondsinafoodprocessoruntilfinelyground.Squeezeexcessliquidfrombread,discardingliquid,andtransferbreadtoprocessor.Addgarlic,vinegar,and1½teaspoonssalt;puréemixtureuntilsmooth.Withmachinerunning,addoilinaslow,steadystream,alternatingwith¼cupcoldwater,blendinguntilemulsified.Blendinanother2¼cupscoldwater.Strainthroughafinesieveintoabowl,pressingonsolidstoextractliquid;discardsolids.Seasonwithsalt.

3.Chillgazpacho,atleast1hourorupto1day.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.Dividegazpachoamongbowls.Drizzlewithoilandtopwithgrapesandalmonds,justbeforeserving.

CreamyGarlic,Parsley,andFetaDressingAtablespoonofchoppedrawgarlicmayseemlikeanoverabundance(unlessyouarefendingoffvampires),butit’sthestartingpointforacreamydressingthat’skeptin

checkwithbrightparsleyandlemonjuice,fruityoliveoil,sharpfeta,andtangyyogurt.Tossitwithmild,tenderlettuces,suchasBostonorBibb,ordrizzleovergrilledchicken.

MAKESABOUT1½CUPS

cupchoppedfreshflat-leafparsleyleaves

cupwater

tablespoonmincedgarlic

cupplainGreekyogurt

cupfreshlemonjuice(from2lemons)

ouncefetacheese,crumbled(3tablespoons)

teaspooncoarsesalt

Puréeparsley,thewater,andgarlicinablenderuntilsmooth,1to2minutes.Addremainingingredients,andblenduntiljustcombined.Refrigerate,covered,atleast30minutesandupto1week;stirtocombineagainbeforeserving.

CARROTS

CELERYROOT

JICAMA

PARSNIPS

RADISHES

RUTABAGA

SALSIFY

TURNIPS

Weusedtoactlikerootvegetables.Backinthedaysbeforerefrigeration, we humans would gather nourishmentduringthewarm,brightseasonsandstoreitundergroundin our cellars for lean times. This is essentially whatcarrots, beets, celery root (or celeriac), parsnips, and theirearth-dwellingkindo:stockpileaplant’senergyandstowit safely in the dark, protective earth. No wonder thesevegetablesaresweetanddense-fleshed(at leastcomparedwith, say, more tender, water-packed vegetables likecucumbers,greenbeans,andcelery);rootsarewarehousesofnaturalsugarsandcarbohydrates.Nowonder, too, theykeep so well. Holding steady is written into their genes.Which is not to suggest that root vegetables are nothingmore than long-lived energy sources. Most also containconcentrated doses of the distinctive vitamins, minerals,andphytochemicalscreatedorgatheredbytheplant.

Inthekitchen,homecooksusedtodividerootsintothosewe eat raw (such as radishes) and those we eat cooked(including beets, turnips, and parsnips). The exception tothis is carrots, which can go either way, and whoseversatilityhas longbeenappreciatedbychefsandbakers,aswellasanyonelookingforaquick,crunchy,wholesomesnack. But the truth is that young beets, celery root, andspring turnips are wonderful raw, and radishes aredelectable roasted. Jicama, meanwhile, is enjoyablewhetheryoueatitcookedorraw.Indeed,themomentyoustarttoexploretheversatilityoffamiliarroots,you’reinforrevelations—kindoflikefindingprecioustreasurestuckedawayinyourbasement.

THEBASICS

SEASONALITYRootsaresohardyandreliable,mostareavailableyear-round—atleastinsomeform—buttheircharactervariesfromseasontoseason.Fortender,just-pickedyoungcarrots,turnips,beets,andradishes(includingstrikinglybeautifulwatermelonradishesandFrenchBreakfastvarieties),visitagreenmarketinlatespringandearlysummer.Duringthehottermonths,radishesandturnipsturnpithy,hollow,anddry;carrotsandbeetssimplygrowbiggerandmoreflavorful.Watchforceleriacfrommidsummerwellintofall.Autumnbringsanewcropofturnips—thepurpletops,whicharebetterforcookingthantossingintosalads,aswellastheall-whiteJapanesevarieties—andradishes,includingdaikonandBlackSpanish,whicharewonderfulraworpickled.Rutabaga,parsnips,andsalsifyarebestafterafrost—oreveninearlyspring,havingwinteredoverinthedirt.Onlyafewpatientfarmerstakethetroubletonurturethemthroughthesnow,however,socountyourselfluckyifyoufindone!

BUYINGManyrootvegetablesaresoldwiththeirgreensattached,whichareausefulindicatoroffreshness:Thegreensshouldbetender,young,andfirm,notwilted.Celeriac,rutabaga,parsnips,andothercool-seasonroots(includingwintertimecarrotsandbeets)aretypicallywithoutgreens;they’vebeencuredforstorage.Withthosevegetables,avoidonesthataresplitorcracked,havesoftspots,orappearslimyorbrownateitherend.Asforwhethertobuy“baby”ormatureroots,truebabieswillbemildandtender(so-calledbabycarrotssoldinbagsarereallyjustoldercarrotsthathavebeencutandpolished).Manyroots,includingparsnipsandcarrots,sweetenastheymature—soaslongastheyaren’twoodyordry,oldercanbebetter.Withjicama,lookforsmooth-skinned,firmrootswithoutanybruisesorspots.Ifafewspikygreensaregrowingfromthetop,theyshouldbetenderandbright-hued,notwilted.

NOTABLEVARIETIES

NOTABLEVARIETIESBeets:Besidesthewine-redbeetsyoufindinsupermarkets,therearearainbowofcolorstochoosefrom:GoldenGlobeisslightlysweeterandmilderthanredonesandstartsoutorangebutturnsyellowwhencooked;AlbinaVerdunaispurewhiteandverysweet,withbright,curlytops;Chioggia,anItalianheirloom,isagreatslicer,revealingpinkandwhiteconcentricrings;andCylindraisdarkredandcylindrical.KleineBol(“LittleBall”),atruebabybeetvariety,istenderandperfectlyshaped.Mostbeetscanbeusedinterchangeablyinrecipes,thoughtheircookingtimeswillvary.

Carrots:Inadditiontothefamiliar,taperingImperatorvarieties,keepaneyeoutforblunt-tippedNantes,whichtasteespeciallysweet;short,stoutChantenays;andsmallroundRomeos.Otherheirloomvarietiesmaybepurple,red,yellow,evenwhite.These,too,canbeswappedoneforanother.

Radishes:CherryBelleradishesarethemostcommonvariety,withtheirlipstick-redskinsandsnow-whiteflesh.Tryalsosweeter,milderPinkBeautiesandslender,ultra-crunchyFrenchBreakfastradishes;mildlypungentandslightlypepperyWhiteIciclevarieties;watermelonradisheswithgreenskinsandstripedpinkinteriors;golfball-shapedwhiteSnowBelles;long,milddaikonvarieties;andevenspicyblack-skinnedBlackSpanishRounds.

Salsify:Alsocalled“oysterplant,”salsifycomesintwotypes:white(calledsalsify)andblack(knownasscorzonera),thelatterofwhichishardertofindbutmorehighlyregardedbycooksforitsdistinctivecolorandflavor.

Turnips:Liketheircousinstheradishes,turnipscomeinvariousshapesandsizes.PurpleToppedWhiteGlobeisthemostcommonandhasaclean,pepperybite;Japanesewhiteturnips(Hakurei)aremildandsweetevenwhenraw;GoldenBallturnipshavesweet,goldenfleshandskin;ScarletQueenhasreddishskinbutthetypicalwhiteflesh;Gilfeatherhasgreenish-whiteskinandcreamyskin.Ifyouspotsomethinglabeledablackturnip,it’sactuallyablackradish.

STORINGBecausenaturedesignedrootstobesupplytanksforthestemsandgreens—andeventuallytheseedsthatsproutfromtheirtops—youshouldcutoffthegreensassoonasyougetthemhome,orthey’lldrawmoisturefromtheroot(forinformationonhowtocooksuchgreens,seethispage).Storeroots(exceptjicama)looselywrappedinaplasticbaginthevegetablebinoftherefrigerator.Winterrootscan

keepuptothreeweeks,buttheyoungonesofspringandearlysummershouldbeeatenwithinthreedaysforthebestflavorandtexture.Jicamaisbeststoredinacool,dark,dryplace,similartopotatoes,andnotintherefrigerator.

PREPPINGMuchofthecharacteristicflavorofabeet,carrot,orradishresidesinitsskin,asdoesaconcentrationofnutrients.Butsodopesticides,sobuyorganicandscrubthevegetableswithasoft-bristledbrush,ratherthanpeeling,beforeserving.Otherroots,suchasceleriac,parsnips,salsify,andrutabaga,mustbepeeledbeforecooking—notonlyarethepeelsbitter,buttheytendtobeknobbyandgnarly,andtoholddirtandgrit.Celeriacinparticularhasagnarledsurface,andrequiresageneroushandwiththepeelerorparingknife.Beets,too,needpeeling;butifyoudosopriortocooking,muchofthevegetable’sflavorandcolorwillleachout,soholdoffuntilafter,whentheskinswillslipoffwithagentlerub(wearglovestopreventyourhandsfromstaining).Jicamashouldalsobepeeled;itstoughskinunderminestherefreshingtextureofitscrispwhiteflesh.

COOKINGCookingarootnotonlysoftensitsdense,firmfleshbutalsoenhancesitsinherentsweetnessbybreakingdowncellwallsandreleasingstoredsugarssotheybecomeavailabletoourtastebuds.Mostrootsbenefitfromroasting,whichcaramelizesthesenaturalsugars,addingdepthtotheflavor.Sautéing,whichbrownsthesurface,candothesame.Steaming,meanwhile,impartsacleaneressencethanboiling,whichcanwashawaytheroots’subtleraromasandearthynotes.Likecarrots,radishes,andceleryroot,youngbeetsandturnipscanbeservedraw—grateonthelargeholesofaboxgrater(orwiththegratingdiscofyourfoodprocessor),slicetranslucent-thinwithasharpknifeormandoline,orcutintomatchsticks,andaddtosaladsorslaws.Jicamaistypicallyservedraw—infruitorvegetablesalads—thoughitcanalsoberoasted.InMexico,itissometimesalsoaddedtosoups,whereithasthecharacterofamildturnip.

HOWTOROAST(Forallrootsexceptbeets)Trimandpeelvegetables;leavewholeorcutintouniformpieces.Onarimmedbakingsheet,drizzlewitholiveoil,seasonwithsaltandpepper,andsprinklewithchoppedfreshherbssuchasthymeorrosemary.Spreadevenlyandroastat450°F,

choppedfreshherbssuchasthymeorrosemary.Spreadevenlyandroastat450°F,tossing,untiltenderandcaramelized,20to30minutesdependingonsizeofpieces.Drizzlewithoil,andtopwithherbsand/orgratedsharpcheese.

(Forwholebeets)Placewhole,unpeeledbeetsonapieceoffoillinedwithparchment.Drizzlewitholiveoil,andseasonwithsaltandpepper.Wraptoenclosebeets,andplaceonarimmedbakingsheet.Roastat450°Funtilknife-tender,45to60minutes.Removefromoven;letcool,thenruboffskinswithpapertowels.Leavewholeorcutintowedges,drizzlewithoilandlemonjuice,andsprinklewithgoatcheeseand/orherbs.

HOWTOSTEAM(Forallrootsexceptjicama)Trimandpeelvegetables;leavewholeorcutintouniformpieces.Placeinasteamerbasket(orcolander)setinapotwith1inchwater;bringtoaboil.Coverandsteamuntiltender,10to20minutesdependingonsizeofpieces.Tosswitholiveoil,applecidervinegar,salt,andpepper.

HOWTOGLAZE(Forallrootsexceptjicama)Trimandpeelvegetables;leavewholeorcutinto1-inchpieces.Heatsaffloweroilinalargeskilletovermedium-highuntilshimmering.Addvegetables;cook,stirringoccasionally,untilgoldenbrown,5to8minutesforpieces;10to12minutesforwhole.Addenoughbrothtocover,seasonwithsalt,andcover.Simmeruntilvegetablesareknife-tender,8to10minutesforpieces;15minutesormoreforwholevegetables,dependingonsize.Removelidandboiluntilliquidhasreducedtoasyrupyglaze,stirringoccasionally,8to10minutesmore.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.Removefromheat,andtosswithbutteroroliveoiltocoat.

HOWTOMASHORPUREE(Forallrootsexceptjicama)Trim,peel,andchopvegetablesevenly.Bringapotofwatertoaboil,thenaddsaltandvegetables.Returntoaboil,thenreduceheatandsimmeruntilverysoft,10to15minutes.Drainandreturnvegetablestopot,andcookoverlowheat,stirring,todry,1to2minutes.Forcoarsemashes,mashwithapotatomasherorwoodenspoonwithenoughwarmmilk,cream,orbroth(oracombination)toachievedesiredconsistency,alongwithbutterandsaltandpeppertotaste;orpassthroughafoodmill(foraslightlysmoothermash).Forvelvetypurees,pureeinablenderwithliquidandseasonings.

liquidandseasonings.

HOWTOUSERAW(Forallrootsexceptrutabagaandsalsify)Trimandpeelvegetables.Shaveasthinaspossibleonamandoline,grateonthelargeholesofaboxgrater,orcutintomatchstickswithasharpknife.Carrotsandparsnipscanalsobepeeledintostripsusingavegetablepeeler.Tosswitholiveoil,vinegarorcitrusjuice,andsaltandpepper,andtopwithchoppedfreshherbssuchasbasil,mint,orparsley.Addchoppedtoastednuts,suchasalmondsorwalnuts,orcrumbleinafreshcheese,suchasfetaorgoat.

FLAVORPAIRINGSGowithitoragainstit?That’sthecook’sdilemma.Youcanplayuparoot’sinherentsweetnesswithsugaryingredientslikemaplesyrup,honey,andbrownsugar,orcounteractitwithacidicvinegarandlemonjuice,sharpmustard,tartgoatcheeseandtangyyogurt,orbitterarugulaorwatercress.Mostrootspairnicelywithnutsandnutoils,whichbringouttheirearthyflavors.Herbsaddwonderfulnotesoffreshness.Mild-flavoredturnipstastesimilartopotatoes,especiallywhencooked;pairthemwithbacon,garlic,thyme,orvinegar.Celeriac’sflavorislikenedtoacrossbetweenceleryandparsley,makingitwellsuitedtosweetercompanionslikemaplesyrupandpears.Salsifyisslightlysweetandisoftendescribedastastingsimilartoasparagusorartichokes.Jicamaisjuicyandcrunchyandtasteslikeacrossbetweenanappleandapotato(henceitsnickname,“Mexicanpotato”).Andkeepinmind:theflavorsofrootsgenerallycomplementoneanother,sodon’tbeafraidtocombineatawhim(cookbeetsseparatelyandaddthematlastminutetopreventanentiredishfromcoloring).Potatoes,too,combinebeautifullywithroots,whetherroasted,mashed,orfried.

BEETS:orange,rosemary,tarragon,mint,basil,yogurt,goatcheeseCARROTS:parsley,cilantro,dill,honey,garlicCELERYROOT:Dijonmustard,apples,allspice,cream,parsleyJICAMA:lime,orange,grapefruit,mango,avocado,cucumbers,chiles,cilantroPARSNIPS:nutmeg,maplesyrup,sage,pancetta

RADISHES:butter,chives,ryebread,parsley,feta,vinegarRUTABAGA:apples,pears,honey,cream,ginger,nutmeg,cardamomSALSIFY:butter,cream,wine,honey,shallots,prosciutto,ParmesanTURNIPS:bacon,garlic,duck,maplesyrup,vinegar,

THERECIPES

RoastedBeetandPotatoBorscht

SesameCarrotSlaw

BeetSaladwithGingerDressing

BeetRisottowithBeetGreens

SpicyCarrotSoup

CeleryRootandPotatoRösti

Jicama-CitrusSalad

RainbowCarrotsandChard

LeekandParsnipSoup

SalsifyGratin

RadishTartine

MoroccanVegetableSoup

Rutabaga-AppleMash

TurnipSaladwithBaconVinaigrette

BrisketwithParsnipsandCarrots

RoastedRutabagaandBrusselsSprouts

CarrotFries

SpicedParsnipCupcakeswithCreamCheeseFrosting

RoastedBeetandPotatoBorschtYoucanfinddozensofvariationsonborscht,theRussianbeetsoup.Some(likethisone)areservedhot,otherschilled,somepureeduntilsmooth,othersnot—butallshowcase

thebeautyofbeets.Thisversioncallsforroastingpeeledandchoppedbeets,ratherthanboiling,foradeeper,richerflavor;potatoesareaddedformoreheft.Sourcreamisthe

traditionaltopping,andhelpstobalancethesweetnessofthebeets.

SERVES4

poundsredbeets,scrubbed,peeled,andcutintomediumdicepoundrussetpotatoes,peeledandcutintomediumdiceshallots,coarselychopped

to5sprigsthyme

tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil

cupslow-sodiumchickenbrothorwater

tablespoonred-winevinegar

Sourcream,thinlyslicedscalliongreens,andchoppedfreshflat-leafparsley,forserving1.Preheatovento400°F.Inaroastingpanoronarimmedbakingsheet,tosstogetherbeets,potatoes,shallots,thyme,andoil;seasonwithsaltandpepper.Arrangeinasinglelayerandroastuntilbeetsandpotatoesaretender,about45minutes.

2.Discardthyme.Transfervegetablestoapot,alongwithbroth.Bringtoasimmerovermediumhighandcooktoheatthrough.Withapotatomasherorthebackofawoodenspoon,mashsomevegetablesuntilsoupisthickandchunky.Stirinvinegarandseasonwithsaltandpepper.Divideamongbowls,topwithsourcream,scalliongreens,andparsley,andserve.

TIPYoucanmakethesoupwithwaterinplaceofchickenbrothforavegetarianoption.

SesameCarrotSlawBesidesmoreclassicversions,suchasall-Americancarrot-and-raisinsalad,carrotslaws

areendlesslyadaptable.Youcantossinothershavedvegetables,includingcabbage,fennel,beets,jicama,orasparagus.Ricevinegar,limezestandjuice,scallions,and

toastedsesameseedsgivethisslawAsianflavors.

SERVES4

tablespoonsesameseeds

poundcarrots,peeledandshavedwithavegetablepeelerscallions,thinlyslicedlengthwise

tablespoonricevinegar

tablespoonsaffloweroil

teaspoonfinelygratedlimezest,plus1tablespoonfreshlimejuiceCoarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper

1.Heatasmallskilletovermedium.Toastsesameseeds,shakingpanfrequently,untilgoldenandfragrant,2to3minutes.Transfertoaplatetocool.

2.Combinecarrots,scallions,vinegar,oil,sesameseeds,andlimezestandjuiceinabowl.Seasonwithsaltandpepper,andtosstocombine.

BeetSaladwithGingerDressingRoastingreallybringsoutthebeet’ssweeterside,mellowsitsflavor,andbreaksdownallthosepent-upstarchestocreateasilkentexture.Welovethemasaversatilebaseformanydifferentsaladsandsides.Here,beetsandfreshgingermakeawonderfulpairing,

withbalsamicvinegaraddingsharp-sweetnotesandpistachioslendingcrunch.

SERVES4

smallbeets(about2pounds),scrubbed

tablespoonbalsamicvinegar,preferablywhite

tablespoonfinelygratedpeeledfreshginger

cupshelledpistachios,toastedandchopped

1.Preheatovento425°F.Wrapbeetsinparchment,thenfoil,andplaceonarimmedbakingsheet.Roastuntilknife-tender,about45minutes.Whencoolenoughtohandle,rubwithapapertoweltoremoveskins.Cutinto¾-inchwedges.

2.Inalargebowl,whisktogetheroil,vinegar,andginger;seasonwithsaltandpepper.Tossbeetsindressing,sprinklewithpistachios,andserve.

TIPRememberthatbeetsofdifferentsizesandcolorswillroastatdifferentrates,butallaredonewhentheyareknife-tenderandtheirskinsruboffwithrelativeease.Cookedbeetsarebestseasonedwhiletheyarestillwarmandbetterabletoabsorbflavors.

BeetRisottowithBeetGreensHere’sarisottothatmakesexcellentuseofbeetrootsandtheirgreentops.Whenitcomestocooking,beetgreens,kale,collards,andothersturdygreensarebasically

interchangeable—theycanallbesautéed,simmeredinstews,orbraised.(Infact,youcouldsubstitutebeetgreensinmanyoftherecipesbeginningonthispage.)SERVES6

poundsmallbeetswithgreensattached,rootsandgreensseparated,rootsscrubbed,greenschoppedandwashedwithwaterleftclingingtoleavestablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil

garlicclove,minced

smallonion,finelychopped

cupArboriorice

cupdrywhitewine

tablespoonsunsaltedbutter

cupfinelygratedParmigiano-Reggianocheese

1.Preheatovento425°F.Wrapbeetsinparchment,thenfoil,andplaceonarimmedbakingsheet.Roastuntilknife-tender,about45minutes.Whencoolenoughtohandle,rubwithapapertoweltoremoveskins.Cutinto½-inchdice.

2.Heat1tablespoonoilinalargeskillet.Cookgarlic,stirringfrequently,untilsoftened,about1minute.Addgreensandcook,stirringoccasionally,untiljusttenderandwilted,3to4minutes.Removefromheat.

3.Meanwhile,heatremainingtablespoonoilinapotovermedium.Cookonion,stirringfrequently,untilgoldenbrownandsoft,about10minutes.Bringbrothtoasimmerinasaucepan;reduceheatandkeepwarm.

4.Stirriceintothepotwithonion,andcook,stirring,2minutes.Stirinwine;cook,stirring,untilreducedbyhalf,about3minutes.Ladle½cup

brothintopot;simmer,stirring,untilalmostallliquidisabsorbed(thericeshouldbethinlyveiledinliquidatalltimesduringcooking).Addremainingbroth,½cupatatime,stirringuntilalmostallliquidisabsorbedbeforeaddingmore,untilriceisstillopaqueinthecenterandsuspendedinliquidtheconsistencyofheavycream(youmaynotneedtouseallbroth),about25minutestotal.

5.Stirinbeets,greens,butter,andcheese;seasonwithsaltandpepper.Serveimmediately.

TIPThekeytoafoolproofrisottoisinthestirring:toofastandtherisottowillbeslightlygluey;tooslowanditwillbewatery.Risottowillcontinuetothickenofftheheat,sodon’tovercookit—takeitoffthestovewhilethericeisstillopaque.

SpicyCarrotSoupCarrotstakewelltosimmeringinbroth,alongwithbasicaromatics,tomakeapuréedsoupthattastes,purelyandsimply,oftherootitself.Harissapastegivesthissoupsome

niceheat.

SERVES4

mediumleek(whiteandpale-greenpartsonly),halvedlengthwiseandslicedcrosswise¼inchthick,rinsedwellbunchcarrots(about6),peeledandslicedcrosswise¼inchthickteaspoonsharissa

Coarsesalt

Freshflat-leafparsley,forserving

1.Heatoilinalargesaucepanovermedium.Cookleekuntiljustsoft,stirringoccasionally,4to5minutes.Stirincarrotsandharissa,andseasonwithsalt.Cookuntilcarrotsarejustsoft,stirringoccasionally,8to10minutes.Addchickenbroth,andbringtoasimmer.Cookuntilvegetablesaretender,10to12minutesmore.

2.Puréehalfthesoupinablenderuntilsmooth(becarefulnottofillthejaroftheblendermorethanhalfway).Stirintoremainingsoup.Serveimmediately,toppedwithparsley.

CeleryRootandPotatoRöstiWithitsmildflavor—somewherebetweenceleryandparsley—celeriacisoftenusedto

roundouttheflavorofpotatodishes,likerösti,asavorySwisspancake.

SERVES8

poundsYukonGoldpotatoes,peeledandshreddedonthelargeholesofaboxgratermediumceleryroot(about1pound),trimmed,peeled,andshreddedtablespoonssalt

Freshlygroundpepper

Chives,snipped,forserving

Sourcream,forserving

1.Workinginbatches,wrapshreddedvegetablesincheeseclothand

squeezeoutliquid.Transfertoabowl,addsalt,andseasonwithpepper;tosstocombine.

2.Preheatovento400°F.Heat3tablespoonsoilina12-inchovenproofnonstickskilletovermediumlow.Spreadpotatomixtureevenlyinskillet;pressgentlytoflattenwithaspatula.Cookfor10minutes.Runspatulaaroundedgetoloosen;spoon2tablespoonsoilaroundedge.Cookuntilundersideisgoldenandbeginstocrisp,10to15minutesmore.Runspatulaaroundedgetoloosen;invertontoaplate.

3.Addremaining3tablespoonsoiltoskillet.Returnröstitoskillet,goldensideup;pressgently.Cook,shakingoccasionally,untilundersideisgolden,about20minutes.Transferskillettooven.Bakeuntilcookedthrough,10to15minutes.Servewithchivesandsourcream.

Thisvegetarianmaincourseisanexcellentstudyinbuildingasaladwithsubstance.Roastedcarrotsandonionprovidesink-your-teeth-into-somethingsatisfactionalongwithcaramelizedflavor,wiltedspinachofferscolorcontrast,andnutty,chewyquinoa

addsprotein.

SERVES4

poundcarrots,peeledandcutinto1-inchpieces

smallredonion,cutinto½-inchwedges

tablespoonfreshthymeleaves

cupquinoa,preferablyred,rinsed

cupswater

cupsbabyspinach

tablespoonwhite(shiro)miso

tablespoonfreshlemonjuice

1.Preheatovento400°F.Tosstogethercarrots,onion,thyme,and2tablespoonsoilonarimmedbakingsheet.Seasonwithsaltandpepper,andspreadinasinglelayer.Roastuntiltender,tossinghalfwaythrough,about40minutes.

2.Bringquinoaandthewatertoaboilinasmallsaucepan.Cover;reduceheatandsimmeruntiltender,about15minutes.Removefromheat.Addspinach,cover,andletstand5minutes.

3.Transfertoalargebowl;topwithcarrotmixture.Inasmallbowl,whisktogethermiso,lemonjuice,andremainingtablespoonoil.Drizzle

oversalad,tosstocombine,andserve.

TIPBesuretousewhite(shiro)misointhedressing;it’ssweeter,mildertasting,andlesssaltythanothertypes.

31½¼

Jicama-CitrusSaladSlicedpaperthin,jicamaretainsitscrispqualityasribbonsthatminglewiththeotherelementsofthisfruit-filledsalad.Itsmellowflavorisalsoanexcellentmatchfortart-

sweetcitrus,aswellasGrannySmithapples.

SERVES4

redgrapefruit

navelorange

tablespoonsfreshlimejuice,pluswedgesforservingtablespoonsfinelychoppedfreshcilantroleaves,plussprigsforgarnishteaspoonred-pepperflakes

teaspooncoarsesalt

smalljicama,peeledandthinlyslicedintohalf-moonsGrannySmithapple,coredandthinlyslicedintohalf-moons1.Removepeelandpithfromgrapefruitandoranges.Workingoveralargebowl,carefullycarveoutsectionsofgrapefruitandorangefrom

membranesusingaparingknife,lettingsectionsfallintobowlandreservingmembranes.Transferjuicestoasmallnonreactivebowl;squeezejuicefrommembranesintobowl.Discardmembranes.

2.Addlimejuice,choppedcilantro,red-pepperflakes,andsalttothesmallbowlwiththejuices;stirtocombine.Addjicamaandappletothelargebowlwiththefruit.Pourjuicemixtureoverfruitmixture.Gentlytosstocoat.Letsaladstandfor10minutesbeforeservingwithlimewedgesandgarnishedwithcilantrosprigs.

RainbowCarrotsandChardTastetherainbow:Carrotscomeinanarrayofbeautifulcolors.Forthisstrikingsidedish,weblanchedcarrotsinavarietyofhuesjustuntiltenderandbright,thentossed

themwithalemonvinaigretteandthecolor-coordinatedstemsofrainbowchard.

SERVES4

poundsmallcarrots,trimmedandscrubbed

bunchrainbowSwisschard,stemstrimmed(leavesreservedforanotheruse)tablespoonsfreshlemonjuice,plus½lemon,thinlyslicedintoroundsteaspoonsugar

Freshmintleaves,forserving

1.Preparealargeice-waterbath.Cookcarrotsinapotofgenerouslysaltedboilingwateruntilcrisp-tender,about7minutes.Transfertoicebathuntilcool,thenremovewithaspiderandpatdry.

2.Cookchardstemsinboilingwateruntilcrisp-tender,about4minutes.Transfertoicebath,drain,andpatdry.

3.Whisktogetherlemonjuiceandsugarinasmallbowl;seasonwithsaltandpepper.Addoilinaslow,steadystream,whiskinguntilcombined.

4.Combinecarrots,chard,andlemonroundsinalargebowl.Tosswithsomedressing(refrigeratetherestinanairtightcontainer),thentransfertoaplatter.Topwithmintandserve.

Creamy,ultra-richceleryrootpuréemakesafinepartnerforAsian-stylebraisedshortribs.(Forthebestflavor,braisetheribsadaybeforeserving.)Wetoppedtheduowitha

tartsaladofthinlyslicedAsianpear,celery,scallions,andjalapeño,alltossedwithequalpartsoliveoilandlimejuiceandseasonedwithsaltandpepper.

SERVES8

FORTHERIBS

tablespoonssaffloweroil

poundsshortribs

garliccloves,chopped

shallots,chopped

largeonion,chopped

driedredchiles,seededandchopped

scallions,chopped

Asianpear,chopped

wholestaranise

cuplow-sodiumsoysauce

cupsGewürztraminerorRieslingwine

cupschampagnevinegar

cuphoney

ouncesfreshginger,sliced

FORTHEPURÉE

mediumceleryroots,peeledandcutinto1-inchcubescupsheavycream

1.Makeribs:Preheatovento325°F.HeatoilinalargeDutchovenovermediumhigh.Seasonribswithsaltandpepper,andcookinbatchesuntilgoldenbrown,3to4minutesperside.Transfertoaplate(leavedrippingsinpot).

2.Reduceheattomedium.Addgarlic,shallots,onion,andchiles,andcook,stirringfrequently,untilgolden,about10minutes.Returnmeattopotandaddscallions,pear,staranise,soysauce,wine,vinegar,honey,andginger.Addenoughwatertocoverby1inch(about5cups),andbringtoasimmer.Coverandtransfertooven.Cookuntilribsarefork-tender,about3hours.(Ribsinliquidcanbecooled,covered,andrefrigeratedupto2days.Bringtoroomtemperature,thenproceedwithstep4.)3.Makepurée:Bringceleryrootandcreamtoaboilinasaucepan.Reduceheatandsimmeruntilceleryrootistender,about30minutes.Drainceleryroot,reservingcream.Puréeceleryrootwith2cupsofreservedcreaminablenderuntilsmooth.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.

4.Transferribstoaplateandstrainsaucethroughafinesieve.Skimfatfromtop,anddiscard.Returnsaucetopot,andcookovermediumuntilsaucejustcoatsthebackofaspoon,about10minutes.Addribstosauce,andcook,bastingoften,untilribsarehotandsaucecoatsmeat,about5minutes.Serveribsontopofceleryrootpurée,anddrizzlewithsauce.Topwithpearsalad(seenote).

LeekandParsnipSoupThiselegantversionofvichyssoisereplaceshalfofthepotatoeswithparsnips.

SERVES8

poundsleeks(whiteandpale-greenpartsonly),rinsedwellandcutinto¼-inch-thickhalf-moonsCoarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper

poundparsnips

poundYukonGoldpotatoes

cupschickenbroth

cupswater

driedbayleaves

cupwholemilk

cupcrèmefraîche

jar(2ounces)whitefishcaviar(optional)

1.Cutaroundofparchmenttofitinsidealargepot.Meltbutterinpotovermedium.Addleeksandapinchofsalt;coverwithparchment.Cook,liftingparchmenttostiroccasionally,untilleeksaretender,10to15minutes.

2.Peelparsnipsandpotatoes;cutinto¼-inch-thickpieces.Addtopotwithbroth,thewater,andbayleaves.Seasonwithsalt.Bringtoaboil;reduceheattomediumlow.Simmergently,partlycoveredwithlid,untilparsnipsaresoft,about20minutes.Discardbayleaves.Letcoolslightly.Workinginbatches,puréemixtureinablender(donotfilljarofblendermorethanhalfway).Returntopot,andstirinmilk.Reheatovermedium(donotletboil).

3.Stir¼teaspoonpepperintocrèmefraîche.Dividesoupamongbowls,andtopeachwithadollopofpepperedcreamand½teaspooncaviar,ifdesired.

SalsifyGratinWhenpeeledorsliced,salsifywillbegintoturnbrown,soyouneedtokeepitinabowlofacidulated(lemon)wateruntilreadytocook.Therootbecomeswonderfullytenderwhenboiled,thenbakedwithgoldenbreadcrumbsandParmigiano-Reggianoontop.

SERVES4TO6

cupplus1teaspoonfreshlemonjuice(from2lemons)poundssalsify

cupheavycream

Pinchoffreshlygratednutmeg

cupfreshbreadcrumbs,lightlytoasted

1.Preheatovento425°F,withrackinhighestposition.Fillalargebowlwithcoldwater;add¼cuplemonjuice.Trimsalsifyandpeel,transferringtobowlasyouwork.Cutsalsifyinto2-inchlengths,andreturntobowl.Drain.

2.Coversalsifywithcoldwaterby2inchesinasaucepan;add½teaspoonsalt.Bringtoaboil.Reduceheattomediumhigh.Simmerjustuntiltender,10to15minutes;drain.

3.Meltbutterinasaucepanovermedium.Stirinsalsify;stirincreamandremainingteaspoonlemonjuice.Bringtoabaresimmer;removefromheat.Addnutmegandseasonwithsaltandpepper.Pourmixtureintoan8-inchsquarebakingdishor8-cupgratindish.Sprinklewithbreadcrumbsandcheese.Bakeuntilgoldenbrown,about20minutes.

RadishTartineWithnameslikePinkBeauty,CherryBelle,andPurplePlum,radishesarethe

diminutivedarlingsoftherootworld.FrenchBreakfastradishes,inparticular,aremild,sweet,andcrunchy—justrightforslicingpaper-thinandenjoyingonabuttered

baguette,astheydoinFrance.

SERVES6

baguette

Unsaltedbutter,roomtemperature

poundradishes,preferablyFrenchBreakfast,thinlyslicedintoroundsFlakyseasalt,suchasMaldon

Preheatovento350°F.Splitbaguettehorizontallyandtoastonabakingsheetuntillightlycrisp,8to10minutes.Letcool,thenspreadbutter

sheetuntillightlycrisp,8to10minutes.Letcool,thenspreadbuttergenerouslyovereachhalf.Topwithradishes,dividingevenly.Sprinklewithseasalt,andcutintopiecestoserve.

Radishes,membersofthemustardfamily,haveaspicinessthatstandsuptootherassertiveflavors,likethesaltyanchoviesandbrinycaperspairedwiththemhere.Roastingtamesallthree,andasqueezeoflemonbrightensthewholelot.Thisdish

makesaniceappetizertoenjoywithdrinks,orgreataccompanimenttochickenorpork.

SERVES4

ouncesradishes,halvedorquarterediflarge

teaspoonscapers,rinsedandchopped

anchovyfillets,finelychopped

garlicclove,minced

lemon,forserving

Preheatovento375°F,withrackinupperthird.Tosstogetherradishes,capers,anchovies,garlic,andoilonarimmedbakingsheet;seasonwithsaltandpepper.Spreadinasinglelayer,androast,stirringonce,untilradishesareshriveledandfragrant,30to35minutes.Servewarm,withlemon.

MoroccanVegetableSoupUnlikemanysoupsandstews,whereeverythingissimmeredslowlyoverlowheatuntil

tender,thisonetakesjustunderahalfhourtocook,starttofinish.Theresult?Rootvegetablesthatretainsometexture.Carrotsandrutabagaareshownhere,butyoucan

swaponeorbothforparsnips,turnips,orceleryroot.

SERVES6

poundcarrots,peeledandcutonthebiasinto3-inch-longpieceslargerutabaga(about1pound),peeledandcutonthebiasinto2-inch-longpiecestablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil

cupthinlyslicedshallots(2to3small)

Coarsesalt

teaspoongroundcumin

tablespoonsharissa

cupdrywhitewine

can(15.5ounces)chickpeas,drainedandrinsed

Pinchofsaffronthreads

cupsIsraeli(pearl)couscous

Coarselychoppedfreshcilantro,forgarnish(optional)

1.Bringalargepotofwatertoaboil.Addcarrotsandrutabaga,andsimmer2minutes.Reserve6cupscookingwater,thendrainvegetables.

2.Heatoilinalarge,wide,deeppotovermediumhigh.Addshallotsand1teaspoonsalt,andcook,stirringoccasionally,untilshallotsaresoftenedandgoldenbrowninplaces,about5minutes.Addcuminandharissa,andcook,stirringconstantly,1minute.Addwineandsimmer30seconds.

3.Addreservedvegetables,thechickpeas,reservedcookingwater,andsaffrontopot.Bringtoaboil.Reduceheatandcover.Simmeruntilvegetablesarecrisp-tender,8to10minutes.Seasonwith2teaspoonssalt.

4.Meanwhile,bringalargepotofsaltedwatertoaboil,andcookcouscousuntilaldente,about7minutes.Drain.

5.Dividecouscousamongsixbowls.Ladlesoupovercouscous,andgarnishwithcilantro.(Soupandcouscouscanberefrigeratedinseparatecontainersuptotwodays;letcoolcompletelybeforerefrigerating.Gentlyreheattogetherinacoveredpotovermedium,stirringoccasionally,and

garnishwithcilantrobeforeserving.)TIPHarissaisafieryNorthAfricanpastethatisusedasacondimentaswellasincooking.Lookforitatsupermarkets,inspecialtygrocers,oronline.

Rutabaga-AppleMashWithitspepperytaste,rutabagapairsnicelywithsweetapplesorpears—eitherof

whichcanbeusedinthisrecipe.Andjustaswhenroasted,therootbecomesmashablytenderafterboiling,whilethefruitsoftenstoasauce.Servewithlamborcrownroast.

SERVES4

largerutabaga,peeledandcutinto1-inchpieces(about5cups)sweetapple,suchasGala,orpear,suchasAnjou,peeled,cored,andcutinto1-inchpiecesCoarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper

tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,plusmoreforservingcupheavycream

Freshthyme,forserving

1.Combinerutabagaandappleinasaucepan,andcoverwithwaterby2

inches.Bringtoaboilandaddsalt.Reduceheatandsimmeruntilrutabagaistender,15to20minutes.Drain;transfertoabowl.

2.Meanwhile,heatbutterandcreaminanothersaucepanuntilbutterismeltedandmixtureishot(donotboil).

3.Addbuttermixturetorutabagamixtureandmashwithapotatomasherorwoodenspoon,justuntilpiecesbreakdownbutmashiscoarse.Seasonwithsaltandpepper,andservetoppedwithmorebutterandfreshthyme.

TurnipSaladwithBaconVinaigretteBabyturnipshavenoneofthesharpnessofmatureones,andtheirgreensarealsomore

tender—allthebetterforcombininginasaladdressedwithawarmvinaigrette.

SERVES4

bunchesbabyturnips,trimmed,greensreserved,turnipscutintowedgesteaspoonextra-virginoliveoil

teaspoonssherryvinegar

teaspoonsgrainymustard

cupsbabyspinach

slicesbacon,thinlyslicedcrosswise

shallot,minced

2 tablespoonspecans,toastedandcoarselychopped

1.Preheatovento375°F.Tossturnipwedgeswithoiland½teaspoonsaltonarimmedbakingsheet.Roast,tossingafter15minutes,untilgoldenbrownandtender,about35minutes.

2.Whisktogethervinegar,mustard,¼teaspoonsalt,and¼teaspoonpepperinasmallbowl.

3.Washturnipgreenswell,andtearinto3-inchpieces.Tossgreenswithspinach.

4.About5minutesbeforeturnipsarefinishedroasting,heatasmallhigh-sidedskilletovermediumhigh.Addbaconandcook,stirring,untilcrisp,4to5minutes.Addshallotandcookuntilsoft,1to2minutes.Removefromheat,andstirinvinegarmixture.Foldwarmbaconvinaigretteintogreens.Transfertoaplatter;topwithroastedturnipsandpecans.

BrisketwithParsnipsandCarrotsRootvegetablesareessentialtothisdish’sappeal:Justthinkwhatyouwouldbemissingwithoutallthosecarrotsorparsnipsonyourplate.Afewhoursinalowovennotonly

makesinexpensivecutslikebrisketfalling-aparttender,italsoturnsdense,starchyrootsintosoft,deeplyflavorfulreceptaclesforthedeliciouspanjuices.

SERVES8

first-cutofbeefbrisket(5pounds)

tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil,plusmoreifneededlargeonion,halvedandthinlysliced

garliccloves,minced,plus1head,halvedhorizontallytablespoonstomatopaste

cupsdryredwine,suchasPinotNoir

freshordriedbayleaves

poundparsnips,peeledandhalved

smallcarrots(about8ounces),peeledandstemendstrimmedto½inchouncesredpearlonions,peeled(about2½cups)

tablespoonbalsamicvinegar

1.Preheatovento325°F.Seasonbothsidesofbrisketwithsaltandpepper.HeatalargeDutchovenorroastingpanovermediumhigh.Add3tablespoonsoiltopan,swirltocoat,andheatuntilhotbutnotsmoking.Addbrisket;searuntilbrownedonallsides,4to5minutesperside.Transfertoaplatter.

2.Reduceheattomedium.Addonionandmincedgarlictopan;cook,stirringfrequently,untilsoft,about4minutes.(Addmoreoiltopanifneeded.)Stirintomatopaste,andcook,stirring,1minute.Stirinwine,andcook,scrapinganybrownedbitsfrombottomofpan,untilalmostevaporated.

3.Addchickenbrothandbayleaves,andbringtoaboil.Addbrisket,thencoverandroast2hours.Flipmeatover.Addhalvedheadofgarlic.Coverandroast30minutesmore.

4.Arrangeparsnips,carrots,andpearlonionsaroundbrisket;coverandroastuntilbeefandvegetablesaretender,about1hour.Transfervegetablesandgarlictoaplatterandmeattoacuttingboard,reservingpansauce.Tentmeatwithfoil,andletrest.

5.Letsaucestandinpanfor15minutes,thenskimfatfromtop.Cookovermediumheatuntilsauceisreducedbyslightlymorethanhalf,about20minutes.(Youshouldhaveabout2cups.)Removebayleaves,andstirinvinegar.

6.Thinlyslicebrisketagainstthegrain.Arrangeslicesonaplatterwiththevegetables.Seasonwithpepper,anddrizzlewithsomesauce.Serveimmediatelywithremainingsauce.

TIPAwholebriskettypicallyweights8to12poundsandissoldcutintotwopieces—thefirst,orflat,cut;andthesecond,orpoint,cut.Selectafirstcutthat’sevenlythickwithacapoffatononeside.Foranextra-moistbrisket,don’ttrimthefat.

RoastedRutabagaandBrusselsSproutsAswithmostrootvegetables,roastinghighlightsrutabaga’srichnessandturnsit

wonderfullysweet.Here,therootisroastedalongsidenuttybrusselssproutswithmaplesyrupandlemonjuice,whichcombinetoformadelectableglaze.

SERVES4TO6

cuppuremaplesyrup

poundsrutabaga,peeledandcutinto1½-inchpiecespoundbrusselssprouts,trimmedandhalvedlengthwisecuphazelnuts,toastedandchopped

1.Preheatovento400°F.Whisktogethermaplesyrup,oil,lemonjuice,and¼teaspoonsalt.Addrutabagaandtoss.

2.Transferrutabagaandallbut2tablespoonsglazetoarimmedbakingsheet(leaveremainingglazeinbowl).Spreadrutabagainasinglelayer,sprinklewith¼teaspoonsalt,androastfor35minutes,tossinghalfwaythrough.

3.Raiseoventemperatureto450°F.Addbrusselssproutsand¼teaspoonsalttoremainingglazeinbowlandtoss.Tosssproutswithrutabagaonsheet,andspreadinasinglelayer.Roastvegetables,tossingevery5minutes,untilglazeisverythickandvegetablesaredeepgoldenbrown,about20minutes.Seasonwithpepper,andsprinklewithhazelnuts.

CarrotFriesForthesamereasonsweetpotatoesmakesuchgoodfries,sodocarrots:They’re

naturallysweet,andthesugarshelpthefriesturngoldenbrownintheoven.Firstcutthecarrotsintosticks(producingmaximumsurfaceareaforcrisping);thentossthemwithgratedParmesancheesebeforebaking,orwithgroundcayennepepperorcumin.

SERVES4

poundcarrots,peeledandcutinto¼-inch-thickstickstablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil

Preheatovento425°F.Tosstogethercarrots,oil,andcheeseinalargebowluntilevenlycoated;seasonwithsaltandpepper.Arrangeinasinglelayerontworimmedbakingsheets.Bake,rotatingsheetsandtossing

layerontworimmedbakingsheets.Bake,rotatingsheetsandtossingcarrotshalfwaythrough,untilgoldenbrownandcrisp,20to25minutes.Serveimmediately.

SpicedParsnipCupcakeswithCreamCheeseFrostingCarrotsaren’ttheonlyrootvegetableforbakingintodesserts.

Naturallysweetparsnipsworkexceptionallywellincakes,too—and,

alongwithbrownsugarandsaffloweroil,helpkeepthemmoist.Warm,fragrant

cardamomflavorsthesecupcakes,whicharefinishedwithswirlsofcreamcheese

frosting,carrotcake’sfamiliarcounterpart.

MAKES12

cupall-purposeflour

teaspoongroundcardamom

teaspoonsbakingpowder

teaspoonfinesalt

cuppackedlight-brownsugar

largeeggs

cupsaffloweroil

tablespoonpurevanillaextract

cupscoarselygratedparsnip

ouncescreamcheese,roomtemperature

tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,roomtemperature

cupconfectioners’sugar

1.Preheatovento350°F.Line12standardmuffincupswithpaperliners.Inalargebowl,whisktogetherflour,cardamom,bakingpowder,andsalt.Inanotherbowl,whisktogetherbrownsugar,eggs,oil,2teaspoonsvanilla,andthegratedparsnip.Stirinflourmixtureuntilcombined.

2.Dividebatterevenlyamonglinedcups.Bakeuntilatoothpickinsertedincenterofacupcakecomesoutwithonlyafewmoistcrumbsattached,18to20minutes.Letcoolcompletelyinpanonawirerack.

3.Inalargebowl,beatcreamcheese,butter,confectioners’sugar,andremainingteaspoonvanillauntilcombined.Spreadfrostingontocooledcupcakes.(Frostedcupcakescanberefrigeratedinanairtightcontainerupto2days.)

JERUSALEMARTICHOKES

POTATOES

SWEETPOTATOES

TUBERS

Potatoes are the most popular vegetable in America—weeat,onaverage,morethan50poundsperpersoneachyear.But they have a secret: Potatoes are clones. So, for thatmatter, are sweet potatoes and yams (not to mentionJerusalemartichokes,ginger,andmanioc)—eachiscapableofsproutingitsownroots,stems,andleaves,andbecomingafully formed plant, genetically identical to its parent. Ofcourse, cloning isn’t controversial if you’re a tuber orrhizome, the name for such plant parts.Nor is it ofmuchconcerntothecook,whocaresmoreaboutwhatavegetablecandointhekitchenthanwhatitgetsuptounderground.

And in the kitchen, tubers are stars. Mild in flavor, they are versatileplayers that can round out anymeal, fromeveryday scrambled eggs, tohealthful vegetable soups, to the finest filet mignons. Their highproportion of natural starches means these vegetables are capable ofremarkable textural feats, becoming crisp or buttery, creamy, fluffy,crunchy,evensticky,dependingonhowthey’recooked.Andcookedtheyshouldbe,forunlikeotherroots,whichconsistofsimplercarbohydrates,tubersrequireheatfortheirnutrientstobedigestible.

Perhapsthebestthingabouttubersisthatthey’resoeasygoing.Because,aspopularastheyare,they’remorethanhappytosharethelimelight—andmakeanythingthey’reservedwithalittle(evenalot)easiertolove.

THEBASICS

SEASONALITYStoredproperly,mosttuberskeepsowellthatgrocerystoresandevengreenmarketshappilystockthemyear-round.Intruth,however,thesevegetableshavedefiniteseasons—andunlessyoucanreplicateidealstorageconditionsathome,oldpotatoeswillsoonturnspongyandsprouteyesinyourkitchen.Sweetpotatoesandyams,whichcomefromwarm,humidclimates,ripeninfallandwinter(thustheirannualappearanceonThanksgivingtables).Lookforthemthroughoutthecoldermonths.Freshnewpotatoesareavailableonlyinearlysummer,andtheyaremostdeliciouseatenwithindaysofharvesting.Matureboilingandrussetpotatoesarebestinlatesummerandthroughoutthefallandearlywinter.Jerusalemartichokes—whichareneitherartichokesnorfromJerusalem—areavailableinearlyfall.(ThesefloweringplantsareinthesunflowerfamilyandareindigenoustoNorthAmerica,wheretheyarealsoknownassunchokes.TurnsouttheywerepopularinItaly,wherethewordfor“sunflower,”girasole,morphedovertimeintoJerusalem,andtheywerethoughttotastelikeartichokes—hencetheirmorecommonname.)BUYING

Whenshopping,lookforfirm,hardtubersandrhizomes,withoutsoftorspongyspots,orpatchesofdarkorwrinkledskin.Newpotatoesshouldberock-hard,andtheywillhavetranslucent,“feathered”skinthatlooksasifitispeelingoff.Whatevertheirage,potatoesmustbefreeofgreenpatches,whichindicatethepresenceofapotentiallytoxicsubstancegeneratedbyexposuretolight.Andavoidanypotatoesstartingtosprouteyes.

Withsweetpotatoes,optforplumponesofaveragesize,asthespindlyoroversizeonesmaybefibrous.Anddon’tfretoverthedifferencebetweensweetpotatoesandyams.Trueyamsaretropicaltubersthatmaygrowasbigas100pounds;theyseldomappearinAmericanmarkets.Butwe’vecalledcertainorange-fleshedsweetpotatoes“yams”sincea1930smarketingcampaignkickedoffthepractice,andthere’snoharminthemisnomer.

Asforwhichpotatovarietytoselect,itdependsonhowyouplantousethem.So-calledboilingpotatoeshavewaxy,firmfleshthatisgreatforpotatosaladsandgratins.Bakingorrussetpotatoeshaveskinthatlookslikeadustyrockandahigherstarchcontentthatmakesthemfluffupwhencooked—idealforbaking,frying,and

starchcontentthatmakesthemfluffupwhencooked—idealforbaking,frying,andmashing.Withsweetpotatoes,letcolorbeyourguide.Theorange-fleshedonesaresweetestandsoftest.White-fleshedonesarefirmerandhaveanuttyflavor.Redonesfallsomewhereinbetween.

NOTABLEVARIETIESPotatoes:Eventhemost“exotic”potatoeshavebeenaroundforalong,longtime—thousandsofyears,infact.Theunusualvarietiesthathavecaughtonfastestwithgrowersandcooksarepurplepotatoes,becausetheircolorissostriking,andfingerlings,becausetheytastesogood.PurplePeruvianpotatoesaremediuminsizeanddeeplypurplethroughout;othersincludeDakuRound,apurplepotatowithslashesofredandamoist,whiteflesh;Scamp,withmarbledpurpleandyellowflesh;AllBlue,whichistrulyblueinsideandout,withadrytexture;PurpleMajesty,anoblongpotatowithverydarkpurpleskinandpurplemoist,firmflesh;andCherriesJubilee,asmallpotatowhosesweetandcrumblyfleshisapretty,mottledmagentawhencooked.

Mostfingerlings,sonamedfortheirlong,thinshape,haveawarmyelloworivory-coloredflesh;theyarefirmwhensliced,likewaxynewpotatoes,buttheyalsohavesomeofthedry,flouryqualitiesofIdahobakingpotatoes.Thebestfingerlings,suchasRubyCrescentandRussianBanana,havesomuchflavor—sweet,nutty,earthy,evenbuttery—aqualitymanypeoplemistakenlyascribetoanyyellow-fleshedpotato.RedMandelisawaxyfingerlingwithasweet,flowerytaste;RubyCrescent(pinkestwhenfreshlypicked)hasyellowfleshandabutteryflavor,bothsweetandsharp;RedThumb(afavoriteamongchefs)hasabrightredskinandpinkflesh;FrenchFingerlingisanheirloomvarietywithsmooth,pinkskinandyellowflesh.

OthervarietiesworthlookingforareKatahdin,another“all-purpose”potatosimilartoYukonGold;themedium-starch,pleasantlyearthy-tastingEarlyOhio;Gloria,aDutchvarietywithfirm,bright-yellowflesh;Caribe,withwhite,creamy,delicatelyflavoredflesh;RosaLund,amedium-starchpotatothat’sivoryinside,withaheartyflavor;Kennebec,alargepotatowithtanskinandwhitefleshthatholdstogetherwhenboiled;RedGold,amedium-size,red-skinnedpotatowithgolden,sweet,nuttyflesh;andPeanut,anoldScandinavianvarietywitharussetskinandatastereminiscentofchestnuts.

SweetPotatoes:Withmorethanfourhundredvarietiesgrownaroundtheworld,it’sworthgoingbeyondthefamiliarJewels,withtheircopperskinanddeep-orange

flesh,andGarnets,namedforthecoloroftheirskin,withtheirmoist,pumpkin-likeflesh.Anothercommonvariety,Beauregard,hasduskygoldenskinandpalerfleshthat’sfirmerthantheothers.Lookfortheseheirloomandhybrids:Hannahshavetanskinandacreamyinteriorthatislightlysweetanddrywhencooked;Creamsiclehascream-coloredskinandabrightorangeflesh;Covingtonisapinkish-skinnedsweetpotatowithmoist,orangeflesh;Nuggetshavereddishskinandapaleorangefleshthat’sdenseandholdsitsshapewhencooked;O’Henry,whosepalecopperskinandwhitefleshcanbemistakenforaregularpotato,issweetandcreamywhencooked;Japanesesweetpotatoeshaveadistinctiveruby-redskinwithfleshthatiscreamywhiteandslightlydry;Murasakis,relatedtotheJapanesevariety,havereddish-purpleskinanddry,creamywhiteflesh;PurpleSweetPotatoeshavefirm,lightlysweetfleshthat’salsoslightlytart;andStokes,purpleinsideandout,areanearthy-tastingfavoriteamongchefs.

STORINGNewpotatoesandJerusalemartichokesshouldberefrigerated,butallothertubersarebeststoredelsewhere,astherefrigeratoristoodampandcoldanenvironmentforthem.Instead,keeptheminadark,coolplace(theiridealtemperatureis45°F)thatisfreeofmoisture.Kitchenwisdomhasitthatleavingdirtontheirskinmakespotatoeslastlonger,perhapsbecauseitbothshadesanddriesthevegetables—thoughdoingsomakesformoreprepworkwhenitcomestimetocookthem.

PREPPINGTheskinsofpotatoes,sweetpotatoes,andJerusalemartichokescontainflavorandnutrients,soifyourrecipedoesn’tcallforpeeling,aquickscrubmaybealltheprepworktheseingredientsneed.Ifyoudoplantopeelorcutthemfirst,keepabowlofwaterhandyanddropthepiecesinasyouwork,sincethey’llturngrayiftheircutsurfacesareexposedtoair.Don’tworrytoomuchaboutgrayspotsintheflesh;they’remerelybruisescausedbyhandling,anddon’tindicatespoilage.Butbesuretocutawayeyesandanyhintofgreen.

COOKINGBakingandroastingaregreatoptionsformostpotatoes,astheoven’sdryheatplaysupthevegetables’firm,chalkyconsistency.Andpotatoeslikeithotinthere:400°Forhigherwillcrisptheoutsidewhiletheinsidessoften.Sweetpotatoesalsotakewell

orhigherwillcrisptheoutsidewhiletheinsidessoften.Sweetpotatoesalsotakewelltothesecookingmethods,astheyconverttheirnaturalstarchestosugars.Thelongertheprocess,themoresweetnesswillresult:Wholesweetpotatoescanspendanhourormoreintheoven.AndaslowroastmakesJerusalemartichokessoftandalmosttranslucent,withaflavorliketheirnamesakeartichokes,buttheycanalsobepreparedlikepotatoesandevenenjoyedraw.

HOWTOROASTScrubpotatoesandsweetpotatoes(orpeel,ifdesired);peelJerusalemartichokes.Cutintowedgesor1-inchpieces(orleavesmallpotatoeswholeorcutintohalves).Placeonarimmedbakingsheet,drizzlewitholiveoil,seasonwithsaltandpepperandchoppedfreshherbs;tosstocombine.Spreadevenlyandroastat425°F(375°FforJerusalemartichokes),tossing,untiltender,45minutes,dependingonsize.

Note:Parboilingpotatoesbeforeroastingcreatesalightandfluffyinside,withagoldenexterior(muchlikeafrenchfry).Scrubpotatoesandpeel,ifdesired;cutintouniformpieces(¾to2inches),orleavesmalloneswholeorhalvethem.Placeinapotwithenoughwatertocover.Bringtoaboil,thenseasonwithsalt.Reduceheatandsimmerjustuntilpotatoesaretender,10to15minutes.Drainthoroughlyandimmediatelytosswitholiveoil,salt,andpepper.Roastat450°F,flippingonce,untilgoldenandcrisp,about35minutes,dependingonsize.

HOWTOBAKEScrubvegetablesandprickalloverwithafork.Bakeonabakingsheetat400°F(350°FforJerusalemartichokes)untiltender,45to60minutes.Splitopenandtopwithbutter,sourcreamoryogurt,choppedbacon,sautéedgreens,slicedavocado,caramelizedonions,kimchi,maplesyrup(younameit!).Or,setoutavarietyoftoppingsforapotato“bar.”

HOWTOSTEAMPeelvegetablesandcutinto2-inchpieces(halveorquartersmallerpotatoes).Placeinasteamerbasketsetinapotfilledwith1inchofwater.Bringtoaboil,cover,andsteamuntiltender,10to20minutes,dependingonsize.Tosswithbutteroroliveoil,saltandpepper,andchoppedfreshparsleyorthyme.

HOWTOBOILPeelvegetablesandcutinto2-inchpieces(leavesmallerpotatoeswhole,orcutintohalvesorquarters).Bringtoaboilinapotwith2incheswatertocover,thenaddsalt.Boilvegetablesuntilknife-tender,10to20minutes,dependingonsize.Drain;

salt.Boilvegetablesuntilknife-tender,10to20minutes,dependingonsize.Drain;whilestillwarm,tosswithbutteroroliveoilandchoppedfreshherbs;ormashandseasonasdesired.

HOWTODEEP-FRY(Forpotatoes,sweetpotatoes)Peelvegetablesandcutlengthwiseintomatchsticks,placinginabowlofcoldwatertocoverasyouwork.Drainandpatdrythoroughly.Heat3to4inchessaffloweroilinaheavy-bottomedpotovermediumuntilitreaches375°Fonadeep-frythermometer.Workinginbatches,carefullyaddpotatoesandcook,turningoccasionally,justuntiltender,5to6minutes.(Theywillnottakeoncoloratthispoint.)Transfertopapertowelstodrain.Returnoilto375°F,andfryagainuntilgolden,1to2minutes.Drainagain,sprinklewithsalt,andserve.

HOWTOGRILL(Forpotatoes,sweetpotatoes)Scrubsmallpotatoes,orpeellargeronesandcutintoquarters.Placeinapotwithenoughwatertocover.Bringtoaboil,thenseasonwithsalt.Reduceheatandsimmerjustuntilpotatoesaretender,10to15minutes.Drain;letcoolslightly.Tosswitholiveoil.Grillpotatoesdirectlyongrates,turningonce,untillightlycharredandcrisp,1to2minutesperside.Tosswithmoreoliveoilandchoppedfreshherbs,suchasthyme,rosemary,orparsley.Seasonwithsalt.

FLAVORPAIRINGSVersatilepotatoesadoreeverykindofdairy;they’venevermetapieceofmeat,poultry,orfishtheydidn’tlike;andtheygetalongwithallkindsofherbsandothervegetables.Andsweetpotatoesarerightathomeincreamycustards,cheesecakes,andpies.Bothpotatoesandsweetpotatoeshavemadetheirwayintomostoftheworld’scuisines—you’llfindthemincurries,tagines,andtacos,nottomentionontablesacrossEurope.

JERUSALEMARTICHOKES:butter,cream,cheese,bacon,thyme,parsley,sagePOTATOES:butter,cream,cheese,bacon,eggs,chicken,beef,pork,lamb,leeks,onions,rosemary,thyme,parsleySWEETPOTATOES:bacon,lime,orange,apples,ginger,pecans,thyme,parsley,sage,cilantro

THERECIPES

PotatoSalad,ThreeWays

PotatoGnocchi

Mrs.Kostyra’sMashedPotatoes

Salt-BakedPotatoes,Shallots,andChestnuts

LambStewwithJerusalemArtichokes

Tartiflette

Twice-CookedPotatoandLeekCasserole

YukonGoldandSweetPotatoesAnna

SalmonChowder

PotatoYeastedRolls,TwoWays

PotatoSalad,ThreeWaysIfanythingdemonstratestheversatilityofpotatoes,it’spotatosalad,whichstartsby

boilingthetubers.Fromthere,theformulaisendlesslyadaptable.Varythethemewithdifferentspuds—wechoserussetsintheclassicall-Americansaladwithmayonnaiseandhard-cookedeggs;smallred(“new”)potatoesinawarmvinegar-and-mustardFrenchversion;andfingerlingsforasaladwithbacon,watercress,andceleryleaves.

SERVES4

poundsrusset,smallred,orfingerlingpotatoestablespooncoarsesalt

Inalargesaucepan,coverpotatoeswithcoldwaterby2inches.Bringtoaboiloverhigh;addsalt.Reduceheatandsimmeruntilpotatoesareknife-tender,about25minutesforrussets,15forsmallredsorfingerlings;drain.Whencoolenoughtohandle,ruboffskins,ifdesired.Halveorcutasinstructed,thentransfertoabowl.Tosswithremainingingredientswhilestillwarm,unlessotherwisedirected(seebelow).

CLASSIC

Peelandchopboiledrussetpotatoesinto1-inchpieces.Drizzlewith1to2tablespoonsapplecidervinegar;letcool.Combine1peeledanddicedlargehard-cookedegg,½cupmayonnaise,½teaspoondrymustard,and¼teaspoonceleryseedsinalargebowl;seasonwithsaltandpepper,andwhisktocombine.Stirinpotatoes,1dicedcelerystalk,½smalldicedonion,5dicedcornichons,1choppedscallion,and1tablespoonchoppedfreshflat-leafparsley.Refrigerateatleast30minutesorupto1daybeforeserving,toppedwithslicedhard-cookedeggsandsprinkledwithsweetpaprika.

FRENCH

Whisktogether¼cupextra-virginoliveoil,3tablespoonsDijonmustard,2tablespoonssherryvinegar,1mincedsmallshallot,3tablespoonschoppedfreshflat-leafparsley,and1teaspoonchoppedfreshthymeleaves;seasonwithsaltandpepper.Addhalved(quarterediflarge)boilednewpotatoesand¼smallthinlyslicedredonion,andtosstocombine.Servewarm.(Saladcanberefrigerated,covered,upto1day;serveatroomtemperature.)3

WITHCELERY,CRESS,ANDBACON

Whilepotatoesarecooking,cook4stripsthick-cutbaconovermediumheatuntilfatisrenderedandbaconiscrisp,10to12minutes.Transfertoapaper-towel-linedplatetodrain.Breakintobite-sizepieces.Transferhalvedboiledfingerlingpotatoestoalargebowl;gentlytosswith¼cupplus1tablespoonextra-virginoliveoiland2tablespoonswhite-winevinegar.Seasonwithsaltandpepper;foldin1cupinnerceleryleaves,2cupstrimmedwatercress,andthebacon.Servewarmoratroomtemperature.

PotatoGnocchiThepetite,feather-light,airyItaliandumplingsknownasgnocchiaremadefrom

mashedpotatoes,withflouraddedtobalancethemoisturecontentandjustenougheggtobindthemixture.Weliketotopgnocchiwithasimpletomatosauce,buttossingthemwithbrownedbutterandsageisalsotraditional,asispairingthemwithameatyragù.

SERVES4TO6

poundsYukonGoldorrussetpotatoes

tablespoonscoarsesalt

cupsall-purposeflour,plusmorefordustinglargeeggs

teaspoonfreshlygroundpepper

TomatoSauce

FinelygratedParmigiano-Reggianocheese,forserving

Freshbasil,forserving

1.Inalargesaucepan,coverpotatoeswithcoldwaterby2inches.Bringtoaboiloverhigh;add1tablespoonsalt.Reduceheatandsimmeruntilpotatoesareknife-tender,about25minutes;drain.Whencoolenoughtohandle,ruboffskins,thenpassfleshthroughapotatoricerorfoodmill.Sprinklewithflour;thenaddeggs,1tablespoonsalt,andthepepper.Stirmixturewithaforktocombinewell.

2.Turnoutdoughontoalightlyflouredsurface;verygentlykneaduntilsoftandsmooth,about3minutes.Usingabenchscraperorasharpknife,dividedoughintofourtosixpieces.Rolleachpieceintoalongropeabout¾inchthick.Cutropescrosswiseinto1-inchpieces.

3.Rollacutsideofeachdumplingagainstthetinesofaforkwithyourthumb(eachpiecewillhaveridgesononesideandanindentationontheother).Placeonalightlyflouredbakingsheetasyouwork.(Atthispoint,gnocchicanberefrigeratedonbakingsheetuptoseveralhours.)4.

Workinginbatches,cookgnocchiinalargepotofsaltedboilingwateruntiltheyfloattothetop,2to3minutes.Useaslottedspoontotransfertoacolandertodrain.Toserve,tossgnocchiwithtomatosauce,andtopwithcheeseandbasil.

TomatoSauce

MAKES4CUPS

largegarlicclove,finelychopped

can(28ounces)wholepeeledtomatoes,choppedCoarsesaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper

Heatoil,garlic,andred-pepperflakesinapotovermedium,stirringfrequently,justuntilfragrantandsizzling,about2minutes.Addtomatoesandseasonwithsaltandblackpepper.Bringtoaboiloverhighheat,thenreducetoarapidsimmerandcook,stirringoccasionallyandmashingtomatoes,untilthickened,about15minutes.Saucecanbecooledandrefrigeratedinanairtightcontainerupto1week;reheatoverlowbeforeserving.

Mrs.Kostyra’sMashedPotatoesThankstoallthedifferentvarietiesofthehumbletuber,youcanhavemashedpotatoesanywayyoulike—fluffybutgrainy(russets),smoothandcreamier(YukonGoldandlongwhite),chunkywithskinsforaddedtexture(newpotatoes).Thiscreamy,smooth,

ultra-richrecipecamefromMartha’smother,Mrs.Kostyra.

SERVES8

poundswhiteorYukonGoldpotatoes

ouncescreamcheese,roomtemperature

cup(1stick)unsaltedbutter,roomtemperaturecupwholemilk,warmed

cupheavycream,warmed

1.Inalargesaucepan,coverpotatoeswithcoldwaterby2inches.Bringtoaboiloverhigh;add1tablespoonsalt.Reduceheatandsimmeruntilpotatoesareknife-tender,about25minutes;drain.Whencoolenoughtohandle,ruboffskinsandcutpotatoesintolargepieces.

2.Withanelectricmixeronmediumspeed,beatpotatoes,creamcheese,butter,milk,and¼cupcreamuntilsmooth.Seasonwithsaltandpepperandbeattocombine.

3.Returnpotatomixturetopanandheatovermedium.Stirinremaining¼cupcreamandcook,stirring,untilheatedthrough.Serveimmediately,orkeepwarminacoveredbowloverapanofsimmeringwaterupto2hours.

Salt-BakedPotatoes,Shallots,andChestnutsFingerlingshaveameatyflavorthatmateswellwiththechestnutsinthisholiday(oranycool-weatherday)side

dish.Bakingthepotatoes,chestnuts,andshallotsburiedinsalttrapstheirmoistureasitsealsintheirflavors,withoutleaving

themoverlysalty.SERVES8TO10

cupscoarsesalt,plusmoreforservingpoundssmallfingerlingpotatoes,preferablyredcuppeeledroastedchestnuts

poundshallots,peeled

largesprigsrosemary,cutintotwenty2-inchpieces,plusmoreforservingcupextra-virginoliveoil,fordrizzlingFreshlygroundpepper

1.Preheatovento350°F.Pour1cupsaltintoa2-quartbakingdish.Nestlepotatoes,chestnuts,andshallotsuprightinsalt,withrosemaryinbetween.Pourremaining2cupssaltovertop;shakedishgentlytodistributeevenly.Coverwithfoil,andbakeuntilpotatoescanbeeasilypiercedwithaknife,about2hours.Keepcoveredatroomtemperatureuntilreadytoserve.

2.Removepotatoes,chestnuts,andshallotsfromdish,rubbingoffanylargebitsofsalt.Discardsaltandrosemary.Slicepotatoesandshallotsinhalflengthwise,andarrangeonaservingplatterwithchestnuts.Drizzlewithoil;seasonwithsaltandpepper.Topwithrosemarysprigsandserve.

LambStewwithJerusalemArtichokesThetextureofJerusalemartichokesissimilartopotatoeswhencooked,butwithout

potatoes’starchiness,sotheyholdtheirshapewhenaddedtostews.Thisrecipepairsthetuberswithlambandtomatoes,andisflavoredwithcardamom,saffron,caperberries,

andcilantro.

SERVES6

poundsbonelesslambshoulder,cutinto1½-inchcubesCoarsesaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper

poundsJerusalemartichokes(about15small),peeled,cutinto¾-inchcubes,andplacedincoldwater(drainandpatdrybeforeusing)cupscoarselychoppedonion(about1large)garliccloves,minced

tablespoonfreshlygratedpeeledginger(1-inchpiece)cinnamonstick

wholecloves

greencardamompods,lightlycrushed

can(35ounces)wholepeeledplumtomatoeswithjuicecuplow-sodiumchickenbroth

teaspooncrumbledsaffronthreads

jar(10ounces)smallcaperberries,drainedcupfinelychoppedfreshcilantro

1.Heat2tablespoonsoilinalarge,heavypotovermediumhigh.Seasonthelambwithsaltandblackpepper;brownthemeat(inbatches,ifnecessary)onallsides,about8minutes.Transfertoabowl.

2.Cooktheartichokesinremainingtablespoonoilinsamepotovermedium-highheat,stirringoccasionally,untilwellbrownedonallsides,about7minutes.Usingaslottedspoon,transferartichokestoaseparatebowl.

3.Addonion,garlic,andgingertoremainingoilinpot;sautéovermedium-highheat,stirringoccasionally,untilonionistranslucent,about

4minutes.Addcinnamon,cloves,cardamom,andred-pepperflakes;cook,stirringconstantly,2minutes.

4.Stirintomatoesandjuice,broth,saffron,and1teaspoonsalt.Usingthesideofawoodenspoon,breakuptomatoes.Addreservedlambandaccumulatedjuices;bringmixturetoaboil.Reduceheattolow;cover,andsimmeruntilmeatistender,about1hour.

5.Returnreservedartichokestopot.Continuetosimmeruntilartichokesaretender,about25minutes;addcaperberriesduringfinal5minutesofcooking.Seasonwithsaltandblackpepper.Discardcinnamon,cloves,andcardamombeforeserving,toppedwithcilantro.

TartifletteThistraditionalAlpinedish(which,liketheAlps,straddlesFranceandSwitzerland;tartifliesisSwissdialectfor“potatoes”)isthebestexampleofscallopedpotatoes,withmeltedcheesebindingthepotatoesinplaceofheavycream.Lardonsofcrisp,smoky

baconarelayeredthroughoutandscatteredoverthetop.

SERVES4TO6

Unsaltedbutter,forbakingdish

poundsfingerlingpotatoes,scrubbedandcutlengthwiseinto½-inch-thickslicesCoarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper

ouncesslicedthick-cutbacon,cutinto1-inchpiecesmediumonion,thinlysliced

cupdrywhitewine,suchasSauvignonBlancouncesReblochon-stylecheese,cutinto¼-inch-thickslices1.Preheatovento375°F.Butterashallow2-quartbakingdish.Inasaucepan,coverpotatoeswithcoldwaterby2inches.Bringtoaboiloverhighheat;add1tablespoonsalt.Reduceheatandsimmeruntilpotatoesareknife-tender,about10minutes;drain.

2.Meanwhile,cookbaconinalargeskilletovermediumheat,turning,untilcrispandgolden,about12minutes.Transfertoapaper-towel-linedplate;pouroffallbut1tablespoonfatfromskillet.Addonion;cookovermediumheat,stirringoccasionally,untillightlycaramelized,about15minutes.Addwineandcookuntilreduced,about2minutes.Stirinbacon.

3.Arrangehalfthepotatoesinprepareddish.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.Topwithhalfthebaconmixtureandhalfthecheese.Repeatwithremainingingredients.Bakeuntilcheeseisbubbling,about25minutes.Serveimmediately.

TIPAlthoughReblochonisamustinFrance,othercheesecreatedinitsspirit,suchasPreferesdesMontagnes,willworkjustfine;ItalianRobioloBosinoandBriearealsoexcellent(butmilder)substitutes.

Twice-CookedPotatoandLeekCasseroleSERVES6TO8

poundssweetpotatoes(about5small),peeledandcutinto½-inchpiecespoundsrussetpotatoes(about7small),peeledandcutinto½-inchpiecesCoarsesaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper

cupwholemilk,warmed

cupheavycream,warmed

cup(1½sticks)unsaltedbutter,meltedtablespoonsall-purposeflour

Pinchofcayennepepper

leek(whiteandpale-greenpartsonly),cutinto¼-inchrings,rinsedwellSaffloweroil,forfrying

1.Preheatovento425°F.Coversweetpotatoesandrussetpotatoeseach

with1inchwaterintwoseparatesaucepans.Bringtoaboil,saltgenerously,andboiluntilfork-tender,about8minutes;drain.Returnpotatoestorespectivepans.

2.Inabowl,combinemilk,cream,andbutter.Dividemilkmixturebetweensaucepans.Mashbothpotatoesuntilsmooth;seasonwithsaltandblackpepper.Spreadmashedsweetpotatoesevenlyinthebottomofashallow2-quartbakingdish.Topwithmashedrussetpotatoes;spreadevenlytoedges.Bakeuntilgolden,about25minutes.

3.Meanwhile,inabowl,combineflourandcayenne.Addleek;tosstocoat.Inamediumsaucepan,heat2inchesoilovermediumhighuntilathermometerregisters350°F.Workinginbatches,addleekringsandcook,turning,untilcrispandlightgoldenaroundedges,about1minute.Withaslottedspoon,transfertopapertowelstodrain.Seasonwithsalt.Sprinklefriedleeksoverpotatoesandserve.

1¼1¼6

YukonGoldandSweetPotatoesAnnaSERVES6TO8

poundsYukonGoldpotatoes(3to4medium),peeledpoundssweetpotatoes(2medium),peeledtablespoonsunsaltedbutter,melted

1.Preheatovento425°F.Cutpotatoesinto⅛-inch-thickslices,keepingpotatovarietiesseparate.

2.Brushanovenproof9-inchnonstickskilletwithsomebutter.Startingincenterofpan,arrangeabout20YukonGoldslices,slightlyoverlapping,inacircularpattern,coveringsurface.Brushwithsomebutter,andgenerouslyseasonwithsaltandpepper.Makenextlayerwith

sweetpotatoslices;brushwithbutterandseason.Repeat,alternatingcolors.Drizzleremainingbutterontopofpotatoes.

3.Cookpotatoesovermedium-highheatuntilbuttervigorouslybubblesinpan,about4minutes.Transfertooven,andbake30minutes.Tentlooselywithfoil;continuetobakeuntilpotatoesareeasilypiercedwithaknife,about20minutesmore.Removefromoven,andrunaheatproofflexiblespatulaaroundedgesofpotatoestoloosen.Letcool;carefullyinvertontoaplate,cutintowedges,andserve.

32612½

SalmonChowderFrugalcookshavelongreliedoncold-storagecropslikepotatoestomakemealswithsubstanceduringlongwinters.Chowdersareamongtheeasiestandmostdeliciousof

those.Nothickenersareneededsincethepotatoescontributetheirownstarches.Infact,potatostarchisathickenerinitsownright,similartocornstarch;it’susedinsauces,

soups,andpiefillings,whilepotatoflourisusedforyeastedrollsandotherbakedgoods.

SERVES6

leek(whiteandpale-greenpartsonly),halvedlengthwise,thinlysliced,andrinsedwellredonion,quarteredandthinlyslicedCoarsesaltandfreshlygroundwhitepepper

smallYukonGoldpotatoes,peeledandcutinto¾-inchcubescarrots,halvedlengthwiseandthinlyslicedcupshomemadeorstore-boughtlow-sodiumfishstockouncesskinlesssalmonfillet(orcodorhalibut),cutinto¾-inchcubescupheavycream

tablespoonchoppedfreshdill

1.Heatbutterinamediumstockpotovermediumlow.Cookleekandredonionuntilsoft,6to8minutes.Seasonwith1teaspoonsalt.Stirinpotatoesandcarrots.Addstockandbringtoaboil.Reduceheattolow,andsimmeruntilpotatoesarealmosttender,6to8minutes.

2.Addsalmonandsimmeruntilopaque,about3minutes.Stirincreamandheatthrough.Stirindill,seasonwithsaltandpepper,andserve.

21⅓½1

Kitchenwisdomholdsthatproducethat’sinseasonatthesametimewilltastegreatonthesameplate(whatgrowstogether,goestogether,asthesayinggoes).Here,sweet

potatoes,apples,andVidaliaonionareroastedalongwithporkchopsforanautumnalone-pansupper.Thetuberssoakupthepanjuices—flavoredwithapplecidervinegar,

applecider,andcarawayseeds—thatarealsodrizzledovereachserving.

SERVES4

bone-inporkchops(eachabout10ouncesand1inchthick)Coarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper

mediumsweetpotatoes,scrubbedandcutinto¼-inch-thickroundslargesweetonion,suchasVidalia,cutinto¼-inch-thickroundscupapplecidervinegar,preferablyunfilteredcupunsweetenedapplecider,preferablyunfilteredteaspooncarawayseeds

apples,preferablyHoneycrisp,thinlysliced,seedsremoved1.Preheatovento375°F.Seasonporkwithsaltandpepper.Heatalargeovenproofskilletovermediumhigh;swirlinoil.Cookchopsuntilgoldenbrown,turningonce,about8minutestotal.Transfertoaplate.Removeallbut2tablespoonsfatfromskillet.

2.Reduceheattomedium.Addpotatoesandonion;seasonwithsalt.Cookuntilgoldeninspots,about10minutes.Addvinegarandcider.Coverandsimmer,stirringafewtimes,untilpotatoesaretender,about5minutes.Sprinklewithcarawayseeds.

3.Returnporkandjuicestoskillet;tuckappleslicesbetweenchops.Roastuntilathermometerinsertedintothickestpartofchops(withouttouchingbone)registers138°F,about10minutes.Servepork,vegetables,andappleswithpanjuices.

PotatoYeastedRolls,TwoWaysWhenmakingyeastedrolls,tryaddingmashedpotatoestothedough.Notonlydotheyactasanagentforfermentation,ensuringanicerise,buttheyalsohelpkeeptherolls

moistandlight.Bonus:Bothdoughs(thisoneandthepotatodoughrecipe)canbemadewithleftovers,oranequalamountofmashedpumpkinorwintersquash.

SweetPotatoYeastedRolls

MAKES2O

cupwarmwater(110°F)

envelope(¼ounce)activedryyeast

cupmilk

tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,plusmore,melted,forbrushingcupsugar

tablespoonplus1teaspooncoarsesaltteaspoongroundcardamom

cupsmashedcookedpeeledsweetpotatoes(fromabout2medium)teaspoonfreshlemonjuice

largeegg,lightlybeaten

cupssiftedall-purposeflour

1.Placethewarmwaterinasmallbowl,andsprinklewithyeast.Letstanduntilyeastisdissolvedandmixtureisfoamy,about7minutes.

2.Inasmallsaucepan,heatmilkovermediumjustuntilitbeginstosteamandbubblearoundthesides.Removefromheat;addbutter,andstiruntilmeltedandcombined.Stirinsugar,salt,andcardamom.Letcoolslightly.

3.Withanelectricmixeronmediumspeed,beatsweetpotatoesandlemonjuiceuntilsmooth,2to3minutes.Beatineggandmilkandyeastmixturesuntilsmooth.

4.Switchtothedoughhook.Addflour,1cupatatime,beatinguntilastiffdoughforms.Continuekneadingdoughonmediumspeeduntilsmooth,about8minutesmore;thedoughwillstillbeslightlysticky.Transfertoabutteredbowl;coverwithacleankitchentowel.Letriseinawarmspotuntildoubledinbulk,about1hour.

5.Punchdowndough,andkneadwithyourhands,justuntilsmooth.Usingabenchscraperorsharpknife,cutdoughinto20equalpieces,andshapeintorolls.Placerollsonparchment-linedbakingsheetsabout2inchesapart;coverwithakitchentowel,andletriseagaininawarmspotuntildoubledinbulk,about40minutes.

6.Preheatovento400°F.Usingkitchenscissorsorasharpparingknife,snipanXinthetopofeachroll.Brushrollswithmeltedbutter.Bakeuntiltopsofrollsaregolden,rotatingsheethalfwaythrough,about20minutes.Servewarmoratroomtemperature.

PotatoDinnerRolls

MAKES30TO35

smallrussetpotatoes,peeledandcutinto2-inchpiecesenvelopes(¼ounceeach)activedryyeasttablespoonssugar,plusapinch

cupbuttermilk,roomtemperature

tablespoonsbutter,meltedandcooled,plusmoreforbowl,plasticwrap,andbrushingtablespoonplus1teaspooncoarsesaltto6½cupsbreadflour,plusmorefordusting1.Placepotatoesinamediumsaucepanwithenoughcoldwatertocover.Bringtoaboil;reduceheatandsimmeruntiltender,about15minutes.Drain,reserving½cupliquid.Letreservedliquidcoolto110°F.Meanwhile,mashpotatoeswithapotatomasherorpassthroughapotatoricer.

2.Inthebowlofanelectricmixer,whisktogetherreservedliquid,yeast,andpinchofsugar.Letstanduntilmixtureisfoamy,about5minutes.

3.Attachbowltoelectricmixerfittedwiththedoughhook.Withmixeronlowspeed,addremainingsugar,thepotatoes,buttermilk,butter,andsalt.Addenoughflour,1cupatatime,tomakeadoughthat’sslightlytacky.Continuekneadingdoughuntilsmooth,about2minutesmore.Transfertoabutteredbowl;coverwithbutteredplasticwrap.Letriseinawarmspotuntildoubledinbulk,1to1½hours.

4.Preheatovento375°F.Turnoutdoughontoalightlyflouredworksurface.Usingaflouredrollingpin,rolloutdough¾inchthick.Cutinto2-inch-widestrips.Cutstripsintotrianglesorsquares;placeatleast1¼inchesapartonparchment-linedbakingsheets.Brushtopsgenerouslywithmeltedbutter;coverwithbutteredplasticwrap.Letriseuntildoughisnolongerspringytothetouch,about15minutes.

5.Bakeuntiltopsofrollsaregolden,rotatingsheetshalfwaythrough,about20minutes.Servewarmoratroomtemperature.

BEETGREENS

BOKCHOY

BROCCOLIRABE

COLLARDS

MUSTARDGREENS

TURNIPGREENS

GREENS

Literatureisfulloftalesofthehumbleoutcastwhoproveshimself to be a truehero.The story of collards, kale, andmustard, beet, and turnip greens is a bit like that. Forcenturies, they were the rejected siblings of leafy greens.Deemedunworthyoffinetables,theywerethefoodofthepoor and downtrodden. Fortunately, those who embracedthemwereanythingbutdeprivedwhenitcametoculinaryingenuity,andtheytransformedthesegreensintodishesaslifesustainingastheyweredelicious.

It helped that the coarse and often bitter greens wereendowedwithconsiderablegifts.Theyareamongthemostnutrient-dense vegetables available, according to theCenters for Disease Control and Prevention—as arebroccoli rabe, a member of the turnip family (its namemeans“turnipbroccoli”inItalian),andbokchoy,anAsiancousin.Afterall,likelettuceandendive,thesehardygreensare factories of photosynthesis, transforming sunlight intoedible energy.Anddespite their occasional rough-around-the-edges character, they are delicious, with flavors thatrange from sweet andmineral-like, to bracingly bitter, tospicy hot—though all are tamed by a long, slow simmer,especiallyifasalty,smokybitofhamhockorapig’searisaddedtothepot.

Luckily,deliciousnessignoresclassifications.Someofthesegreens, likekale,havenotmerely shakenoff their earlierstigmabuthavealsobecomedownrightpopular.Andthatmeansahappyendingforall:theunderdoggreens,andthoseofuswhogettoeatthem.

THEBASICS

SEASONALITYGreensprefercoolertemperatures,andalthoughpopularoneslikekaleandbroccolirabearenowavailableyear-round,theyaresweetestinfallandwinter,withcollardsandmustardgreenscontinuingrightthroughtospring.Atfarmers’markets,youcanalsofindthesegreensatthebabystageinearlyandmid-summer.BabymustardandturnipgreensmaybeincludedinAsianbraisingorsaladmixes;babychardandkaleinmesclunsaladmixes.

BUYINGChard,collards,kale,broccolirabe,mustardgreens,andturnipgreensshouldbevividgreen,theiredgescrisp.Avoidlimp,flaccidbunchesandanythatareturningyellow.Examinethestemsaswell:theyshouldbetautandcompact.Passbystemsthatareoversize—theyarelikelytobecoarseandfibrous—andshunanythatarebrownorslimy.Also,examinethecutendsfordrynessorcracking.Beetgreenswillbesoldattachedtotherootstheysproutedfrom;boththeyandthebeetsshouldlookfreshandfirm.Withbokchoy,lookforthick,crisp,bright-whitestemswithoutbrownspots,andbrightgreenleaves.

NOTABLEVARIETIESChard:You’lltypicallyfindthreetypesofchardinstoresandatfarmers’markets:FordhookGiantisidentifiablebycrinklyleavesandthick,white,tenderstalks;Rainbowchardhascolorfulred,pink,yellow,orwhitestalks;andRubyRed(orRhubarb)chardhasthinredstalksandaslightlystrongerflavorthantheothers.

Kale:Curlykale—themostrecognizablevariety—hastightruffledleavesandfibrousstalks,andtheflavorisquitepungent.Youcanfinditinbrightgreenorreddish-purplehues.Lacinatokale(alsoknownbymanyothernames:Tuscan,CavoloNero,Black,orDinosaur)hastall,broad,wrinklyblue-greenleavesthatareheartyenoughtoretaintheirfirmnessevenaftercooking.Theflavorissweeterand

moredelicatethancurlykale.RedRussiankaleboastsabittersweettastethat’sslightlypeppery;itsbrightgreenleavesareflatandfringed,withreddishstemsrunningthroughthemandtough,woodystalks.Youcanalsofindpurpleandwhitevarietiesthatareediblebutmoreoftenusedforornamentalplantings.

MustardGreens:SouthernGiantCurledisthemosttraditionalmustardgreenyoucanfind,butthispungentleafygreenrangesincolorfromlighttodarkgreen,purple,red,orvariegated,andintexture—smooth,frilly,orserrated.TherearemanyAsianvarieties(suchasthosefoundinsaladmixes)thatareharvestedyoungerandarethereforemoretender(perfectforeatingraw);thesemustardgreenscanalsopackahot,spicy,mustardyflavor.

BokChoy:AlsoknownbyitsChinesename,pakchoi,thisAsiangreenismostcommonlythelarger,morematurevarietywithwhitestemsanddarkgreenleaves.Babybokchoyisalsoeasytofindinsupermarkets.Butthereareothervarietiesavailableatfarmers’markets,withstemsranginginthicknessandshapeandevencolor(greenpakchoiisprizedforbeingmoretenderandflavorful).Theleavesalsovary;somehavefrillyshapes,othersarelightergreen,vergingonyellow,andonevarietyhasleavesinatightheadwithhardlyanystemsatall.Theyallshareamustardyflavor;theolderleavesaregoodforpickling(asinkimchi).

STORINGRemoveanytwisttiesorrubberbandsconstrictingthestems.Looselywrappedinaplasticbag,heartygreenswillkeepinthefridgeforseveraldays,thoughtheylosesweetnessandnutrientsovertime,sodon’twaittoolong.Kaleandcollardshaveanaturallyoccurringwaxontheirleaves(youcanseeitwhenyoudunktheminwater)thathelpsthemlastuptoaweek.

PREPPINGTheseheartygreenscomewithsturdystems,soyou’llneedtoseparatethetwo.Todoso,grabthesteminonehandandgentlyencirclethebaseofthegreenintheother,thenslidethishanduptowardthetip,pullingtheleafoffasyougo.Youcanalsofoldtheleavesinhalflengthwiseandsliceoutthestem.Tochopgreensbeforecooking,stackseveralinapile,foldorrollthestackloosely,andcutintowideornarrowstrips,asdesired.

COOKINGVersatilekalecanbepreparedalmostanywayacookcandreamup:blanched,steamed,sautéed,roasted,bakedintogratinsorcasseroles,juiced,oreatenrawinsalads.(Note:Tosoftenkaleleaves,rubthemtogethervigorouslyuntiltheydarken,shrink,andbecometender;youcanalsodothisinasaladbowlwitholiveoilormashedavocadoandsalt,rubbingitintothegreens.)Chardandmustard,beet,andturnipgreensaregoodrawonlywhentheyareyoung,otherwisethey’rebettercooked—andiftheirflavorisespeciallypotent,blanchingfirstcansoftenthatbite.(Youcansautéthechardstems,too;rinse,dry,andcutintosmallpiecesfirst.)Tenderbeetgreensandjuicybokchoyneedonlyaquicksteamorsauté,thoughtheycanalsoberoasted.

HOWTOWILTRemovestems;trimbroccolirabeandbokchoy.Leavewhole,chop,orsliceinto½-inchstrips.Heatoliveoilinaskilletovermedium.Addgreensinbatches,lettingeachcookdownbeforeaddingthenextandtossingfrequently,justuntilwilted,3to5minutes.

HOWTOBLANCHRemovestems;trimbroccolirabeandbokchoy.Blanchgreensinapotofsaltedboilingwateruntilbrightgreenandjusttender,15seconds(forspinachandchard)to2minutes(alltherest);drain.Whencoolenoughtohandle,squeezeoutexcessliquid.Drizzlewitholiveoil,seasonwithsaltandpepper,andservewithlemon.Orsaveforrecipes:Letcoolcompletelyonarimmedbakingsheet,thenstoreinanairtightcontainerintherefrigeratorupto4days.

HOWTOSTEAMRemovestems;trimbroccolirabeandbokchoy.Chopgreensandplaceinasteamerbasket(orcolander)setinapotwith1inchwater.Bringtoaboil,cover,andsteamuntilbrightgreenandtender,5to10minutes.Drizzlewitholiveoilandseasonwithsaltandpepper.

HOWTOSAUTÉRemovestems;trimbroccolirabeandbokchoy.Chopgreens;washandthenrain,leavingwaterclingingtoleaves.Heatoliveoilinalargeskilletovermediumhigh.Cookmincedgarlic(andapinchofred-pepperflakes,ifdesired)untilgolden,stirringfrequently,2to3minutes.Addgreensandseasonwithsaltandpepper.Coverandcookuntiltender,stirringoccasionally,10to15minutes.Removecover

Coverandcookuntiltender,stirringoccasionally,10to15minutes.Removecoverandcontinuecookinguntilmoistureevaporates,2to3minutesmore.

HOWTOROASTRemovestems;trimbroccolirabeandbokchoy.Cutgreensinto2-inchstrips.Tosswitholiveoil,andseasonwithsaltandpepper;thenspreadevenlyonarimmedbakingsheet.Roastat375°Funtiltenderandcrispandbrownontheedges,tossingonceortwice,15to20minutes.

HOWTOBRAISERemovestems;trimbroccolirabeandbokchoy.Halvegreenslengthwise.Heatbutteroroliveoilinalargeskilletovermedium.Adddicedonionandthinlyslicedgarlicandcook,stirringfrequently,untilsoftened,about5minutes.Addgreensandseasonwithsalt;cook,stirring,untilwilted,3to5minutes.Addenoughchickenbrothtocover;reduceheattolow,coverpan,andcookuntiltender,20to25minutesmore.Seasonwithsaltandpepper,andsqueezewithlemon.

FLAVORPAIRINGSHardygreensgetalongwellwithgarlic,oliveoil,andred-pepperflakes,andareequallycontentedwithonionsandbaconorotherbitsofsmokedpork.Asplashofvinegaroranotheracidicingredientlikelemonjuicecomplementsboththeseflavorgroupings,andpotatoesareseldomanunwelcomepartner.

BEETGREENS:goatcheese,rosemary,mint,orange,walnutsBOKCHOY:garlic,ginger,soysauce,coconutmilk,lime,cilantro,shiitakemushrooms,carrots,pork,chilepeppers,cashewsBROCCOLIRABE:oliveoil,garlic,anchovies,chickpeas,red-pepperflakes,Italiansausage,Parmesan,parsley,tomatopaste,capersCHARD:oliveoil,lemon,garlic,sherryvinegar,red-pepperflakes,PecorinoRomanoCOLLARDAND

TURNIPGREENS:onions,baconorsaltpork,applecider,vinegarKALE:oliveoil,citrus,hazelnuts,balsamicvinegar,ParmesanorPecorinoRomano,pancetta,roastedtomatoes,sweetpeppersMUSTARDGREENS:garlic,soysauce,sesame,ginger,chilepeppers

THERECIPES

SesameGreens

FriedRicewithCollardGreens

StuffedCollardGreens

Mustard-GreensPesto

SkilletPizzawithGreensandEggplant

CaldoVerde

KaleChipswithBalsamicGlaze

Kale-RicottaDip

SwissChardLasagna

BokChoySaladwithCashews

KaleandAvocadoSaladwithDates

Chard-TomatoSauté

OrecchiettewithBroccoliRabeandTomatoes

SesameGreensThisrecipeshowshowusingminimalseasoningsandasimplemethod(blanching)can

yieldtastygreens.Youcanevenblanchthegreensacoupleofdaysaheadoftime,squeezeouttheexcessliquid,thencoolcompletelyonarimmedbakingsheetbefore

refrigeratinginanairtightcontainer.Chopandtosswithseasoningsjustbeforeserving.

SERVES4

poundSwisschard,kale,mustardgreens,orcollardgreens,stemstrimmedCoarsesalt

tablespoonslow-sodiumsoysauce

tablespoonfreshlimejuice

teaspoontoastedsesameoil

Sesameseeds,forsprinkling

1.Blanchgreensinapotofsaltedboilingwateruntiltender,about15secondsforchard,2minutesfortheothergreens.Drain;whencoolenoughtohandle,squeezeoutexcessliquidandcoarselychopleaves.

2.Whisktogethersoysauce,limejuice,andsesameoilinalargebowl.Seasonwithsalt.Addgreensandtosstocoat.Sprinklewithsesameseedsandserve.

Inthisrawsalad,tenderslicesofSwisschard,cabbage,andbrusselssproutsarerubbedwithsugarandsalt,thenchilledtosoftenbeforebeingtossedwiththedressing.

SERVES8

ouncesSwisschard

ouncesbrusselssprouts

headSavoycabbage

teaspoonssugar

teaspoonscoarsesalt

cupwalnuts

tablespoonssherryvinegar

teaspoonsDijonmustard

teaspoonsoysauce

ouncePecorinoRomanocheese,shaved

1.Trimandthinlyslicechardandbrusselssprouts;coreandthinlyslicecabbage.Combineallgreensinalargebowl.Rubwithsugarand1teaspoonsaltuntilslightlydamp.Refrigerate30to60minutes.

2.Preheatovento350°F.Toastwalnutsonarimmedbakingsheet,tossingoccasionally,untildarkened,8to10minutes.Transfertoaplate;letcoolandcoarselychop.

3.Inasmallbowl,whisktogethervinegar,mustard,soysauce,andremaining1teaspoonsalt.Slowlywhiskinoil.Tossgreenswiththree-quartersofdressing.Addcheeseandwalnuts;tosstocombine.Refrigerateatleast10minutesandupto1hour.Serve,tossingwithmoredressing,ifdesired.

FriedRicewithCollardGreensWhilecollardsaremostoftenassociatedwithSoutherncooking,wherethey’rebraised

forhourswithhamhocks,thesegreensaremuchmoreversatilethanthat.Theycanalsostandinforothergreens(suchasbokchoy,kale,andmustardgreens)inmanydishesfromacrosstheglobe.Here,collardsarethehighlightofameatlessThai-stylestir-fry

thatalsodemonstrateshowtheleavessoftenevenafterbriefcooking.

SERVES4

cupjasminerice

cupwater

Coarsesalt

poundcollardgreens,stemstrimmed

tablespoonscoconutoil

tablespoonmincedgarlic

tablespoonmincedpeeledfreshginger

cupslicedshallots

Thaichile,thinlysliced

tablespoonfreshlimejuice,pluslimewedgesforservingteaspoonfishsauce,suchasnamplaornuocmam

Cilantrosprigs,forserving

1.Bringrice,water,and1teaspooncoarsesalttoaboilinasaucepan.Stironce,reduceheat,andsimmer,covered,15minutes.Removefromheatandletsteam(stillcovered)5to10minutesmore.Fluffwithafork.Letcoolcompletelybeforerefrigeratinginanairtightcontainerupto3days.

2.Blanchcollardgreensinapotofsaltedboilingwateruntilbrightgreenandjusttender,about2minutes.Drain;whencoolenoughtohandle,squeezeoutexcessliquidandcoarselychopgreens.

3.Heatoilinalargeskilletovermediumhigh.Addgarlic,ginger,and

shallots,andcook,tossing,1minute.Addrice,chile,andcollards;cook,stirringconstantly,untilheatedthrough.Stirinlimejuiceandfishsauce.Topwithcilantro;serveimmediately,withlimewedges.

TIPThesecrettoanyfriedricerecipeistouseday-oldrice(substituteabout1½cupsforuncookedrice).It’sdrierthanfreshlysteamed,soitfrieseasilywithoutstickingtothewok.

StuffedCollardGreensTheultimatedarkleafygreens,collardshavethemildflavorofspinachandtherobusttextureofkale.Blanchingrendersthegreenstenderandpliable,butstillsturdyenoughforfilling,rolling,andbaking,asinthisupdateonstuffedcabbage.Cookedspeltand

whitebeansgointothestuffing;farroandricecanbesubstitutedforthespelt.

SERVES6

can(28ounces)wholepeeledtomatoeswithjuicecupextra-virginoliveoil

Coarsesaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper

cupspelt

poundcollardgreens

can(15ounces)whitebeans,drainedandrinsedtablespoonsfinelygratedParmigiano-Reggianocheeseteaspoonschoppedfreshsage

1.Pulsetomatoeswiththeirjuicesinafoodprocessoruntilchopped.Heat2tablespoonsoilinasaucepanovermedium.Addonionandred-pepperflakes;cook,stirringoccasionally,untilonionissoftened,about6minutes.Addtomatoesandbringtoaboil.Reducetoasimmer;cook,stirringoccasionally,untilslightlythickened,about20minutes.Seasonwithsalt.Letsaucecool.

2.Stirspeltintoasaucepanofsaltedboilingwater.Reducetoasteadysimmer;cook,uncovered,untiltender,about40minutes.Drainandletcool.

3.Meanwhile,workinginbatches,blanchcollardgreensinapotofsaltedboilingwateruntilbrightgreenandtender,about3minutes.Removewithtongsanddrain;letcool.Trimoffstemsandthickleaves.Reserve12largeleaves;chopanyremainingleaves.

4.Preheatovento375°F.Coarselymashbeansinabowl.Addcookedspelt,remaining2tablespoonsoil,thecheese,sage,andanychoppedcollards.Stirtocombine.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.

5.Workingwithonecollardgreenatatime,arrange¼cupfillingincenter.Foldstemendoverfilling.Foldinsides.Rollcollardovertoformabundle,overlappingendstoseal.Transfer,seamsidedown,toa9-by-13-inchbakingdish.

6.Spreadsauceevenlyoverstuffedcollards.Coverwithparchment,thenfoil;bakeuntilsauceisbubblingandcollardsaretender,about30minutes.Serveimmediately.

TIPForquickerassembly,preparethetomatosauceandspeltuptotwodaysahead;letcoolandrefrigeratethemseparatelyincoveredcontainers.

Mustard-GreensPestoMustardgreenspackasharp,pepperybitethat’sjustrightformakingpesto.Thisout-

of-the-ordinaryversionusesverylittleoilandcheese,gettingitsrichtexturefromroastedgarlic(twofullheads)andtoastedalmonds(inplaceofpinenuts).Beyondthe

pastabowl,tryitoncrostiniorasasauceforgrilledchickenandfish.

MAKES1CUP

headsgarlic

cupalmonds

cupfinelygratedPecorinoRomanocheese

largebunchmustardgreens,stemstrimmedandcoarselychopped(about4cups)tablespoonswater

1.Preheatovento425°F.Sliceofftopquarterofgarlicheads.Wrapgarlicinparchment,thenfoil,androastuntilclovesareverysoft,50to60minutes.Unwrapandletcoolcompletely.Squeezegarlicfromskins,discardingskins.

2.Meanwhile,toastalmondsonarimmedbakingsheetuntilfragrantanddarkened,tossingoccasionally,about5minutes.Transfertoaplate;letcool,thencoarselychop.

3.Pulsetogethergarlic,almonds,oil,cheese,mustardgreens,andthewaterinafoodprocessoruntilathickpasteforms.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.(Pestocanberefrigeratedinanairtightcontainerupto3days.)

Mustardgreensareagoodmatchforanchoviesandgarlic—hereusedintheoilthatflavorsthecroutonsinaheartierCaesarsalad.Letthesaladstandforafewminutes

onceyou’vetossedeverythingtogether.

SERVES4

cupplus3tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoiloil-packedanchovies,chopped

garliccloves,minced

slicesrusticbread,eachslicedinto3or4stripspoundbabymustardgreens

tablespoonsfreshlemonjuice

Parmigiano-ReggianoorPecorinoRomanocheese

1.Preheatovento400°F.Heat¼cupplus2tablespoonsoilinasmallsaucepanoverlow.Addanchoviesandgarlic,andcook,stirringfrequently,untilanchoviesarebrokenupandgarlicispalegolden,12to15minutes.Pourmixtureintoalargebowl.

2.Meanwhile,toastbreadonarimmedbakingsheetuntilgoldenbrown,8to10minutes.Addtobowlwithanchovyoil,andtosstocoat.

3.Addmustardgreens,lemonjuice,andremainingtablespoonoiltobowl,andtosstocoat.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.Letstandfor5minutesbeforeserving,toppedwithshavedcheese.

SkilletPizzawithGreensandEggplantLeafygreensmakeexcellentpizzatoppings—theystanduptothehighheatoftheoven

andmarrysowellwithotherItalianingredients,includingeggplantandprovolone.Thispieistrulyunique:Unlikeformostdoughs,hereyoustartbymixingtheyeastandsaltwiththeflourandwater(sothedoughissofterandmoretender).Thenitrisesin

thesamecast-ironskilletitwillbebakedin,fortheultimateinease.

MAKESTWO10-INCHPIZZAS

FORTHEDOUGH

cupsall-purposeflour,plusmorefordustingteaspoonscoarsesalt

teaspoonactivedryyeast

cupswater

FORTHESAUCE

can(28ounces)dicedtomatoeswithjuice

FORTHETOPPINGS

eggplant(about12ounces),cutlengthwiseinto1-inch-thickslicesCoarsesalt

garlicclove,thinlysliced

poundSwisschard,kale,orbeetgreens,toughstemstrimmedandleavescutinto2-inchpiecesouncesprovolonecheese,thinlysliced

Freshoreganoleaves,forserving

1.Makethedough:Stirtogetherflour,salt,yeast,andthewaterinalarge

bowluntildoughisverysticky.Coverwithplasticwrap;letstand12to18hoursatroomtemperature.

2.Sprinkledoughwithflour.Divideinhalf.Divideoilbetweentwo10-inchovenproofnonstickskillets(preferablycastiron).Swirltocoat.Adddoughtoeachskillet;turntocoatwithoil.Gentlyflattendoughwithyourhand.Cover;letriseinawarmspotuntildoubledinbulk,about2hours.

3.Makethesauce:Heatoilinapotovermedium.Cookonionandred-pepperflakes,stirringoccasionally,untilonionissoftened,6to8minutes.Addtomatoesandjuices.Bringtoaboil,thenreduceheatandsimmer,stirringoccasionally,about20minutes.Letcoolslightly.Puréesauceinablender,workinginbatches(donotfilljarmorethanhalfway).Seasonwithsaltandblackpepper.

4.Makethetoppings:Preheatovento400°F.Placeeggplantinacolander;seasonwithsalt.Letstand30minutes.

5.Rinseeggplant,drain,andpatdry.Arrangeonarimmedbakingsheet;brushwith2tablespoonsoil.Roast,turningonce,untilverytender,about25minutes.Letcoolslightly,thencutinto½-inchpieces.

6.Heatremainingtablespoonoilinalargeskilletovermedium.Cookgarlic,stirring,untilfragrant,about30seconds.Addchardinbatcheswith1to2tablespoonswater.Cook,stirring,untiljustwilted,about5minutes.Seasonwithsalt.Letcool.

7.Preheatovento475°F,withrackinlowerthird.Foreachpizza,pressdoughuntilittouchesedgeofskillet.Ladle¾cupsauceoverdough,leavinga½-inchborder.Topwith3ouncescheese.Add½cupeachchardandeggplant.Topwithanother3ouncescheese.Bakeuntilcrustisgoldenbrown,about18minutes.Servetoppedwithoregano.

CaldoVerdeCaldoverde,or“greenbroth,”isaplentifulstewofkale,potatoes,andsausage;itis

widelyconsideredthenationaldishofPortugal.Thesoupbaseistraditionallypuréed,ashere,toawonderfullythickconsistency(thankstothepotatoes),thenkaleisstirred

inandsimmeredjustuntiltender.

SERVES8TO10

cupextra-virginoliveoil,plusmorefordrizzlinglargeonion,finelychopped

garliccloves,minced

poundsrussetpotatoes(about5medium),peeledandcutinto1-inchcubescupslow-sodiumchickenbroth

ouncesfirmchorizoorlinguiça,halvedlengthwiseounceskale,toughstemstrimmedandleavesthinlyslicedCoarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper

1.Heatoilinalargepotovermediumhigh.Addonionandgarlic,andcook,stirringoccasionally,untilsoftened,about4minutes.Addpotatoesandchickenbroth.Bringtoaboil,thenreduceheatandsimmeruntilpotatoesaresoft,about15minutes.

2.Meanwhile,heatamediumskilletovermedium.Addchorizoandcookuntilgoldenbrown,3to4minutesperside.Transfertoacuttingboard.Whencoolenoughtohandle,thinlyslicecrosswise.

3.Puréesoupwithanimmersionblenderorinaregularblender(workinbatches;donotfilljarmorethanhalfway).Returntopotandstirinkale;simmer5minutes.Seasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.Servesoupdrizzledwithoilandtoppedwithchorizo.

TIPYouwantahardygreenthatcanholditsowninthistypeofsoup;trycollardsinplaceofkale.Chorizoisatraditionalchoice,thoughlinguiçais

usedaswell.

KaleChipswithBalsamicGlazeKaleturnscrispintheoven,andwhenstoredairtight,staysthatwayfordays.Tuscan(orLacinato)kaleisthebestoptionformakingchips;theleavesareflatterandheartier

thancurlykale.Thesimplyseasonedleavesarejustfineassnacksontheirown,butevenbetterservedwithabalsamicdippingglaze.

SERVES8

cupsbalsamicvinegar

teaspoonhoney(optional)

Pinchofcoarsesalt

poundsTuscankale,toughstemstrimmed

Flakyseasalt,suchasMaldon,forsprinkling

1.Bringvinegartoaboilinasmallheavysaucepan;reducetoasimmer,andcookuntilthickenedandsyrupy,about15minutes.Removefromheat;stirinhoney,ifdesired,andcoarsesalt.Letcoolcompletely;glazewillthickenslightlyasitcools.(Glazecanberefrigeratedinanairtightcontainerupto1week;bringtoroomtemperaturebeforeserving.)2.Meanwhile,preheatovento375°F.Tosskalewithoil,anddividebetweentwolargerimmedbakingsheets.Spreadinasinglelayerandbake,tossingkaleandrotatingsheetshalfwaythrough,untilcrisp,15to20minutes.Letcoolcompletelyonsheets.Sprinklewithseasalt,tosstocoat,andservewithbalsamicglaze.

Kale-RicottaDipHere’sahealthierupdateoncreamyspinachdip:Sautéthekaleuntilwilted,thenmixwithricottaandbakeuntilgoldenbrown.Ricottahasallthedeliciousnessofthesour

creamusedinoriginalversions,andisabetterflavorpartnerforkale.

SERVES4TO6

smallbunchkale,toughstemstrimmedandleavescoarselychopped(about1cup)cupfreshricottacheese

Crackersorcrostini,forserving

1.Preheatovento425°F.Heatoilinalargeskilletovermediumhigh.

Addkaleandcook,tossingfrequently,untilwilted,about5minutes.Transfertoaplateandletcool.

2.Mixricottawithkaleinashallowbakingdish,andseasonwithsaltandpepper.Bakeuntilgoldenbrownontopandbubbling,about12minutes.Letcoolslightlybeforeserving,withcrackers.

TIPOthergreensworkwellhere,too:spinach,mustardgreens,Swisschard,collards,beetgreens,andturnipgreenseachcontributetheirdistinctiveflavor,allwithslightlydifferentresults.

SwissChardLasagnaItusedtobethatspinachwasthegreenofchoicewhenmakingameat-freelasagna.ButSwisschard(orkale)actuallymakesmoresense;itdoesn’tlosenearlyasmuchvolume

asspinachdoesduringcooking,andyougetthecrunchofthestemsalongwiththetendernessoftheleaves.Otherthanthat,thisrecipeisprettytraditional,withitssimple

tomatosauceandlayersofmozzarellaandnoodles.

SERVES4

mediumonion,coarselychopped

poundSwisschard,stemsandleavesseparated,boththinlyslicedCoarsesalt

garliccloves,minced

can(28ounces)wholepeeledplumtomatoeswithjuicesno-boillasagnanoodles(9ounces)

poundwhole-milkmozzarella,shredded(about4cups)1.Preheatovento375°F.Heatalargeskilletovermediumhigh.Add2tablespoonsoil,theonion,andchardstems.Cook,stirringoccasionally,untilonionissoftened,about4minutes.Stirinchardleaves,seasonwithsalt,andcookuntiltender,about2minutes.Transfertoaplate.

2.Wipeskillet;returntomedium-highheat.Addremainingtablespoonoil,thegarlic,andred-pepperflakes.Cook,stirring,untilfragrant,about30seconds.Addtomatoeswiththeirjuicesandsimmer,breakingthemintopieces,untilliquidisthickened,about3minutes.Seasonwithsalt.

3.Spread½cuptomatosauceinbottomofan8-inchsquarebakingdish.Topwithtwolasagnanoodles,¾cupsauce,one-thirdofchardmixture,and1cupcheese.Repeatlayeringtwicemore.Topwithremainingnoodles,sauce,andcheese.Looselycoverwithparchment,thenfoil.Bake30minutes.Uncoverandbakeuntilbubbly,about15minutesmore.Letcool20minutes,thensliceandserve.

BokChoySaladwithCashewsBokchoydeliverscrunchandsweetnessinthisvibrantslaw,andmakesanexcellent

stand-inforcabbage.Tryitwithgrilledporkchops,chicken,orsteak.

SERVES4

tablespoonplus1teaspoonricevinegar(unseasoned)tablespoonlow-sodiumsoysauce

teaspoontoastedsesameoil

teaspoonsugar

poundsbokchoy,thinlysliced(about5cups)tablespoonschoppedrawcashews

Whisktogethervinegar,soysauce,sesameoil,andsugarinalargebowl.Addbokchoyandtosstocoat.Topwithcashewsandserve.

Babybokchoyisprizedforitssmallsize(meaningheadscanbecookedwholeorhalved,ashere)andtenderleaves.Thisrecipecanalsobemadewithfull-sizebokchoy

slicedlengthwiseintobite-sizepieces,whichwillsteaminthesameamountoftime.

SERVES4

teaspoonssaffloweroil

redorgreenjalapeñochile,thinlysliced(removeribsandseedsforlessheat)garlicclove,thinlysliced

piece(1inch)freshginger,peeledandthinlyslicedpoundbabybokchoy,halvedlengthwise

tablespoonswater

Coarsesalt

Heatoilinalargeskilletovermediumhigh.Cookjalapeño,garlic,andginger,stirringfrequently,untilsoftened,about1minute.Addbokchoyandthewater;coverandcookuntiltender,7to8minutes.Uncoverandcookuntilanyremainingliquidevaporates.Seasonwithsaltandserve.

Here’sawonderfulwaytoperkupaho-humgrilledhamandcheese:Layeronbroccolirabe.Afterall,thevegetablepairswellwithpork.Italsomakesasimplesandwichmoreofasatisfyingmeal-in-onewhentoppedwithbéchamel,asacroquemonsieur.Startbyblanchingthebroccolirabe,thensautéitwithgarlicforflavorandtowiltthegreens.

SERVES4

FORTHEBÉCHAMEL

shallot,finelydiced

tablespoonsall-purposeflour

cupwholemilk

cupfinelygratedParmigiano-ReggianocheeseCoarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper

FORTHESANDWICHES

poundbroccolirabe,trimmed

Coarsesalt

tablespoonsplus2teaspoonsfigjam

slicesbest-qualitywhitebread

tablespoonplus1teaspoonDijonmustard

ouncesfontinacheese,thinlysliced

ouncesslicedham

cupgratedGruyèrecheese

1.Makethebéchamel:Meltbutterinasaucepanovermediumheat.Addshallot;cook,stirringoccasionally,untiltender,about2minutes.Add

flour,andwhiskuntilmixturebubblesslightly,about1minute.Graduallyaddinmilk,andcook,stirringoccasionally,untilthickened,5minutes.Removefromheat,addParmesan,andseasonwithsaltandpepper.

2.Meanwhile,makethesandwiches:Preheatovento450°F.Workinginbatches,blanchbroccolirabeinapotofsaltedboilingwateruntiljusttender,about2minutes.Drain.

3.Heatoilinalargeskilletovermedium.Addgarlic;cook,stirring,30seconds.Addbroccolirabe;cook,stirring,2minutes.Seasonwithsalt.Letcoolslightly,thenfinelychopgarlicandbroccolirabe.

4.Foreachsandwich,spread2teaspoonsjamononebreadsliceand1teaspoonmustardonanother.Layeroneslicewithfontinacheese,broccolirabe,andham,dividingevenly.Closesandwichandplaceonarimmedbakingsheet;topwith2tablespoonsbéchamel.SprinkleGruyèreevenlyovertops.

5.Bakeuntilbrownedandbubbling,about10minutes.Serveimmediately.

TIPFigjamaddssweetness,butyoucouldforgothatandjustuseDijonmustard.Youcanalsoskipthebéchamel:Assemblethesandwiches,brushbothsideswithsoftenedbutter,thencookinahotcast-ironskilletovermediumheatuntilgoldenbrown,about3minutesperside.

KaleandAvocadoSaladwithDatesThissaladhasitall:Thewinningbuttery-meets-crispcombinationofavocadoandkale,

withpinenuts,Parmesan,anddatesalladdingtheirownnotestothedish.Makethesaladuptoanhourbeforeserving;thetextureofthekaleactuallyimproveswithtime.

SERVES8

cuppinenuts

bunchbabyTuscankale

avocados,halved,pitted,peeled,andcutinto¼-inchslicesouncesParmigiano-Reggianocheese,shaved

largeor10mediumdrieddates,pittedandslicedCoarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper

1.Toastpinenutsinasmalldryskilletovermediumheatuntilgolden,tossingfrequently,about3minutes.

2.Inalargebowl,tosstogetherkale,pinenuts,oil,andlemonjuice.Addavocados,cheese,anddates,andtossgentlytocombine.Seasonwithsaltandpepper,andserve.

Chard-TomatoSautéInFranceandItaly,you’lloftenfindchardsautéedwithextra-virginoliveoiland

garlic;we’vebuiltonthattraditionbyaddingtomato,capers,andfreshbasil,alongwithParmesangratedoverthetop.

SERVES4

poundSwisschard,preferablyRubyRed,stemstrimmedandleaveschoppedCoarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper

tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil,plusmoregarliccloves,thinlysliced

largetomato,chopped

tablespoonscapers,drainedandrinsed

cupslicedfreshbasil,plussmallleavesforservingParmigiano-Reggianocheese,forserving

1.Blanchchardinapotofsaltedboilingwateruntilbrightgreenandjusttender,about15seconds.Drain;whencoolenoughtohandle,squeezeoutexcessliquidandcoarselychopgreens.

2.Heatoilinalargeskilletovermediumhigh.Addgarlic,tomato,andcapers;cook,stirringconstantly,2minutes.Addchardandslicedbasil;cook,tossing,untilheatedthrough.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.Drizzlewithmoreoil,topwithwholebasilleavesandfinelygratedParmesan,andserve.

OrecchiettewithBroccoliRabeandTomatoesForthispastadish,broccoli

rabeandorecchiettearecookedtogetherinonepot.Youcouldstopthere,and

simplyfinishwithadrizzleofoliveoilandsomefinelygratedPecorinoRomano,butit’sexceptionallygoodtossedwithanall-starItaliansauceofanchovies,garlic,capers,andtomatoes,andtoppedwith

goldentoastedbreadcrumbs.SERVES6

cupand3tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil,plusmorefordrizzlingcupsplainfreshbreadcrumbs

Coarsesalt

anchovyfillets,rinsedandpatteddry

garliccloves,thinlysliced

tablespoonscapers,preferablysalt-packed,rinsed,drained,andchoppedpoundcherrytomatoes,halved

poundorecchiette

poundbroccolirabe,trimmedandcutinto2-inchpieces1.Heat3tablespoonsoilinalargesautépanovermedium.Addbreadcrumbsandseasonwithsalt.Cook,stirringfrequently,untilcrispandgolden,about5minutes.Transferbreadcrumbstoaplate.

2.Heat2tablespoonsoilinpanovermedium.Addanchoviesandstir

untiltheydissolveintooil,about1minute.Addgarlicandcapers,andcook,stirring,untilgarlicisgolden,2to3minutes.Addtomatoes,red-pepperflakes,andremaining2tablespoonsoil.Raiseheattomediumhigh,andcook,stirringoccasionally,untiltomatoesbegintobreakdown,about5minutes.

3.Meanwhile,cookpastainalargepotofsaltedboilingwateruntilpastaisaldente,accordingtopackageinstructions,addingbroccolirabe2minutesbeforeendofpastacookingtime.Reserve¼cuppastawater,anddrainpastaandbroccolirabe.

4.Addpasta,broccolirabe,andreservedpastawatertotomatomixtureinpan.Cookovermedium-highheat,stirringgently,untilcombinedandliquidthickensslightly,about2minutes.Transfertoaservingdish,topwithbreadcrumbs,andserveimmediately.

ASPARAGUS

CELERY

FENNEL

KOHLRABI

RHUBARB

STALKS&STEMS

Stalks and stems are the “interstate highways” of thevegetable world: botanical thoroughfares for the passage ofwater, sugars, and nutrients between the plant’s roots downbelow and its leaves above. But the stalks and stems ofasparagus, celery, rhubarb, andother suchedibleplantparts—including the bulb-like stems of fennel and kohlrabi—havetransformedtherouteintoascenicbyway—andoneofthe plants’ greatest assets. Indeed, celery stalks were onceconsidered so elegant that they were displayed, like callalilies,incrystalvases.

Foracook,understandingtheroleofstalksandstemsinthelifeofaplantcanhelpwithselecting,preparing,andcookingthem. Ripeness—the age of a vegetable when harvested—matters with all fruits and vegetables. But with stalks andstems, it’s of foremost importance, surpassing even freshness (in otherwords, how recently it was harvested). Picked young, just as they arereachingtowardthesky,stalkssuchasasparagus,celery,andrhubarbwillbecrisp,lithe,andtender.Butallowafewdaysorweekstopass,andtheybeginto turnstringy,evenwoody,becausenaturehasdesignedthemtostiffenintoreliablesupportstructuresforthegrowingplant.Techniqueslikeparing away the celery and fennel “strings,” andpeeling away theouterlayerofrhubarborkohlrabicanalleviatethisproblem.Betteryet,hittheroadyourself,insearchoftheyoungestonesyourfarmers’markethastooffer.

THEBASICS

SEASONALITYEmergingfromthejust-thawedearth,asparagusisaharbingerofspring,anditsseasonisbrief.Afewweekslater,rhubarbbeginstoreachskyward;it’sbestjustaslatespringcrossesintosummer.Lookforkohlrabiinearlysummerifyoulikeitraw;byJuly,itsturnipynaturebeginstoassertitself.Fennellikescoolweather,andisavailablefromfallintoveryearlyspring.Celerywon’ttolerateextremesofheatorcold,butitisavailableyear-roundthankstocultivationinbothnorthernandsouthernstates.

BUYINGDoessizematter?Whenitcomestosomestalks,theanswerisyes,butforothers,notsomuch.Contrarytowhatmanypeoplethink,thinnerasparagusspearsarenotyounger,moretenderversionsofthicker-spearedasparagus.Instead,long,thickspearswithtightlyclosedheadsareusuallythebesttastingandhavethebesttexture.Incontrast,thoseshorter,thinnerinnercelerystalksaremoretenderthantheouterones.Butthelengthandthicknessofarhubarbspear,ortheplumpnessofafennelbulb,arenoindicationsofquality.Instead,tryinspectingthecutendsofthesevegetables.Withobservation,youmaybeabletodeterminetheirmaturity—thoseofyoungerplantswillhaveauniform,smooth,almostcreamyappearance;olderoneswilllookcoarseandwoody.However,theonlysurewaytodeterminetheageofstalkandstemvegetablesistobuytheminseasonatagreenmarket,fromafarmerwhogrewthemherself.Kohlrabiisoneexception:Lookforbulbsnolargerthanatennisballthatdonotappearcrackedorovergrown;theleavesshouldbeunblemished.

NOTABLEVARIETIESAsparagus:Green,purple,orwhite—theyareallthesamevarietiesbutwithdifferenttastesandtextures.Thehueofanypurpleasparagus,suchasPurplePassion,isonlyskindeepandthestalkswillturngreenwhencooked,soenjoyitraw;

itismoretenderandsweeter-tastingthangreen.White,ontheotherhand,stayscreamywhitewhencooked,thankstobeingdeprivedofsunlightduringgrowingtoavoiditsturninggreen;assuch,ithasamildertaste(andmuchtougherskins).

Celery:Mostceleryisofthefamiliargreenish-whitetype;thevarietiesatfarmers’marketstendtohavemorevibrantleavesattached(and,often,stalksthataremoretender),allthebetterforusinginsaladsandtogarnishsoups.Celeryalsocomesinred(oftencalled“RedGiant”);thestalksaresturdier,evenwhencooked,andhaveamorerobustflavor,makingthemidealforsimmeringinsoupsandstews.

Fennel:Thefamiliartypeoffennel(finocchio)withthewhitebulbiscalledFlorence(orFlorentine)fennel;youcanalsofinditlabeled“sweetanise”orjust“anise.”Wildfennel(finochietto)looksnothinglikethedomesticatedvariety;insteadofabulbithasaroot,anditisharvestedforthefeatheryfronds(whichareaddedtosoupsandstewsandeggdishes)andtheseeds(usedinpicklingandmakingsausages).Wildfennelhasamoreintenselicoriceflavorthandomesticatedfennel.Fennelpollen,thegoldendustextractedfromflowersonboltedplants,hasalsobecomemorecommon;itisprizedforhavingthemostintense(concentrated)licoricetaste,withhintsofcitrus,too.Itcanbeusedinanydishwhereyouwouldusethebulborwildfennelfrondsandseeds,eitheraddedwhilecookingorasagarnish.

Kohlrabi:Thisknobbyvegetablemaybepinkishpurple(oftencalled“violet”or“red”)orgreenish(called“white”);bothhavewhitefleshandareidenticalintaste.

Rhubarb:Itscolorsrangefromdeepcrimsontogreen;thecolordoesnotaffectflavor.(Here’satipforhelpingrhubarbtakeonarosierhue:Addafewslicesofredbeettotheliquidwhenpoachingorstewing.)STORING

Asparaguscanbestoredlikefreshflowers:Sliceverticallyintothespears’endsandstandthemuprightinwater,withthetipslightlycoveredwithadamppapertowel.Celery,fennel,andrhubarblikeaslightlymoist,chillyenvironment;wrapthemlooselyinaslightlydamppapertowelandplacetheminaplasticbagintherefrigeratorforuptothreeorfourdays.Thekohlrabistems(orbulbs)willkeepforseveralweeksintherefrigerator.Ifyouhaveanabundanceofrhubarb,theeasiestwaytostoreitsoyoucanenjoyrhubarbwhenit’soutofseasonistofreezeit:Cutthestalksinto1-inchpieces,laythemflatonabakingsheet,andfreezeuntilfirm,atleast2hours.Thentransfertosealableplasticbags,andstoreinthefreezeruptoayear.

PREPPING

PREPPINGYou’llknowhowtoprepstalksthemomentyoustartworkingwiththem;theyhavebuilt-inguidelines.Forexample,ifyoucuthalfwaythroughanouterstalkofceleryorfennelandpulldownward,dotoughstringspullaway?Ifso,parethemoff.Next,inspectthecutend:Isithollowandfibrous?Ifso,discardtheouterstalks.Asparagus,meanwhile,willnaturallybreakwherethetoughbottomendmeetsthemoretenderupperstalk;bendgentlytofeelforthejunction,thensnapoffanddiscardthebottomportion.Youcanuseaparingknifetopeelawaythesilkyouterskinofkohlrabi(youngeroneswon’tneedpeeling),rhubarb,andasparagus,ifnecessary;whiteasparagusalwaysneedspeeling.

COOKINGLongspearsofdelicate,youngasparagusaresucculentinspringtime,andthetenderinnerstalksofceleryandfennelaredelightfultoeatfromtiptotoe.Butgiventhefibrousnatureofthesevegetables’cellstructures,cuttingthemcrosswiseisoftenthebestsolution,especiallyforolderones.Slicefirmstalksonthebiasintoshortchunksorevenpaper-thinslicestoeliminatestringiness.Thusprepared,fennel,celery,kohlrabi,andevenasparagusarewonderfulrawinsalads.Fennelandasparagusalsotakewelltogrillingandroasting.Tartrhubarb,too,islovelyroastedwithsugar,andwhenstewedforjustafewminutes,itmeltsintoasilkycompote:Slice¼inchthick,combineinasaucepanwithsugarorhoney,freshginger,andjustenoughwatertocoverthebottomofthepan.Covertightly,andcook7to10minutes,oruntilthepiecesfallapart.ServeoverGreekyogurt,icecream,orwaffles.

HOWTOSERVERAW(Forasparagus,celery,fennel,kohlrabi)Trimtoughendsofasparagusandpeelintoribbonswithavegetablepeeler,orcutthinlyonthebias;thinlyslicecelery,fennel,andkohlrabi(preferablyonamandoline)orcutfennelandkohlrabiintomatchsticks.Tosswithextra-virginoliveoilandlemonjuice(orangeisalsonicewithfennel)orred-winevinegar,andseasonwithsaltandpepper.Addapples,carrots,radishes,scallions,orredonion,cutintosimilar-sizepiecesasthestalk,ifdesired.TopwithshavedorgratedParmesanorPecorinoRomano.

HOWTOSTEAM(Forasparagus,celery,fennel,kohlrabi)Fillapotwithenoughwatertocomejustunderasteamerinsert;bringtoasimmer.

Fillapotwithenoughwatertocomejustunderasteamerinsert;bringtoasimmer.Snapofftoughendsofasparagus;sliceceleryandfennel½inchthick;cutkohlrabiinto½-inchcubes.Placeinsteamerbasket,cover,andcookuntiljusttender,5to10minutes(lessforverythinasparagusstalks).Tosswithextra-virginoliveoil,lemonjuiceand/orzest,freshherbs(parsley,mint,orbasil),andseasonwithsaltandpepper.

HOWTOBRAISE(Forasparagus,celery,fennel)Trimtoughendsofasparagusandtipsofcelerystalks,leavingheadsintact;trimstemsfromfennelandcutbulbsintohalvesorquarterslengthwise.(Makesureasparagusspearscanallfitinpan.)Sautéinbutteroroliveoilovermedium-highheatuntilbrownedinspots,turningonce,2to3minutes.Seasonwithsaltandpepper,andaddenoughliquid(chickenorvegetablebroth,ororangejuiceand/orwater)tocover.Simmer,covered,untilverytender,10to12minutes;addmorewaterifpanbecomestoodry.Topwithgratedlemonororangezest(andchoppedfennelfrondsforfennel),freshordriedherbs,adrizzlemoreoliveoil,andpepper.

HOWTOROAST(Forasparagus,fennel,kohlrabi,rhubarb)Leaveasparagusorrhubarbwhole,orcutonthebiasinto1-inchpieces;cutfennelinto½-inchwedges;andcutkohlrabiinto¼-inchslices.Tosswitholiveoiljusttocoat.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.(Tossrhubarbinsteadwithabitofsugarorhoney.)Spreadonabakingsheet,androastat425°Funtilbrowninginspots,turningvegetableshalfwaythrough,about15minutes.

HOWTOGRILL(Forasparagusandfennel)Trimtoughendsfromasparagus;trimfennelandhalveorquarterbulb.Tosswitholiveoil,salt,andpepper.Togrillskinnierstalks,threadthemonskewers.Placeonamedium-hotgrill,andcookuntilbeginningtochar,turningfrequently,5to7minutes.Sprinklewithfreshherbsandgratedsharpcheese.

HOWTOBAKECHIPS(Forkohlrabi)Tossverythinlyslicedkohlrabiwitholiveoil,salt,andpepper,andspreadevenlyonabakingsheetlinedwithanonstickmat.Bakeat250°Funtilcrispandgolden,rotatingsheetonce,35minutesto1hour.Transfertopapertowelstodrain,andsprinklewithsalt.

sprinklewithsalt.

FLAVORPAIRINGSWhattopairwithstalksandstems?Italldepends.Celery,partoftheessentialflavorbasesofmanycuisines,includingmirepoixinFrance(celery,onion,carrot),soffritoinItaly(celery,onion,carrot,andparsley),andtheCajun“HolyTrinity”(celery,onion,andgreenpepper),goeswithalmosteverything.Anditsnaturalsaltinessmakesitanessentialpartofmanysoupsandstews.Rhubarb,ontheotherhand,hassuchauniqueandassertiveflavorthatitcanclashwithotheringredients.Kohlrabibringsafresh,delicateflavor,likethatoftenderbroccolistems,torawsalads.Likefennelandasparagus,itcomestolifewithatouchofacidityfromcitrusormildvinegar.

ASPARAGUS:lemon,Parmesan,garlic,ginger,sesame,eggs,cream,hamCELERY:dill,tarragon,mayonnaise,bluecheese,curry,onions,carrots,parsleyFENNEL:orange,lemon,Parmesan,almonds,olives,parsley,thyme,tomatoesKOHLRABI:lemon,mustard,Swisscheese,dill,creamRHUBARB:strawberries,ginger,orange,raspberries,mint,cinnamon,crèmefraîche

THERECIPES

SteamedAsparagus,ThreeWays

Egg,Asparagus,andMushroomStir-Fry

AsparagusandPotatoFlatbread

RhubarbChutneywithPorkRoast

Asparagus,Artichoke,andFarroSalad

FennelandSmokedSalmonSalad

ClamPanRoastwithFennelandSausage

Celery,Cilantro,andAlmondSalad

BraisedCelery

SteamedAsparagus,ThreeWaysNothingsaysspringlikethefirstappearanceoflocalasparagus,whichneedsonlybriefcooking(ornoneatall)tobeatitsbest.Weespeciallylikeitwhensimplysteamed,withlittleembellishmentotherthanafewclassicflavorpairings,liketheonesbelow.Choose

asparagusthatisuniforminsizeforevencooking.

SERVES6

bunchesasparagus(2pounds),trimmedCoarsesalt

Placeasparagusinasteamerinsertsetinapotfilledwith1inchofwater.Coverandbringtoaboil.Steamuntiltender,2to6minutes(dependingonthickness).Removefromheatandseasonwithsalt.Topasdesired.

WITHMINTBUTTER

Melt1stickunsaltedbutterinasmallsaucepanovermediumheatwith½cuppackedfinelychoppedmintleaves,andseasonwithcoarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper.Heatuntiljustbubblingaroundedges.Drizzlemintbutteroverasparagus,andtossgentlytocoat.Garnishwithwholemintleaves.

WITHEGGSMIMOSA

Inasmallbowl,whisktogether1tablespoonwhite-winevinegarand2teaspoonsDijonmustard,thenseasonwithcoarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper.Add3tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoilinaslow,steadystream,

whiskinguntilcombined.Pass1largepeeledhard-cookedeggthroughafine-meshedsieveintoanotherbowl.Spoonvinaigretteoverasparagus,andtopwithsievedegg.

WITHLEMONAÏOLI

Chop2garlicclovesonacuttingboard,andaddapinchofcoarsesalt.Mashintoapastewithknife’sflatside(orinamortarandpestle).Whisk2largeeggyolkswith½teaspoonsaltinabowl.Slowlyadd1tablespooneachfreshlemonjuiceandwater,andwhiskuntilthoroughlyblended.Add1¾cupsextra-virginoliveoilinaslow,steadystream,whiskinguntilcombined.Stiringarlicmixture.Serveasadipforsteamedasparagus.(Aïolicanberefrigerated,covered,upto2days.Ifaïoliseparates,whisk1eggyolkwith1tablespoontepidwaterinabowl;

graduallywhiskintoaïoliuntilcombined,thenwhiskin¼cupoil.)TIPAnasparagussteamerallowsthespearstostandupright,sothetougherpartscookfasterthanthetips,butyoucanusearegularsteamerinsertandapot;youmayneedtotrimthespearstofitinthebasket,sotheycanlayflat.

21112612

Egg,Asparagus,andMushroomStir-FryTheremaybenobetterpartnerforasparagusthanegg—youwilloftenfindasparagusinomeletsandfrittatas,ineggsbenedict(inplaceofspinach),toppedwithmimosaora

poachedegg,andinquichesandcustards.Thiseggandasparagusstir-fryincludesgarlicandscallions,aswellaswoody,flavorfuloystermushrooms.

SERVES4

largeeggs,roomtemperature

tablespoonsmincedpeeledfreshginger(froma2-inchpiece)tablespoonmincedgarlic(from2to3cloves)bunchscallions,trimmedandthinlyslicedonthebiasouncesasparagus,trimmedandslicedonthebiasinto3-inchpiecesouncesoystermushrooms,separatedintoindividualcaps,largecapshalvedlengthwisehotredchilepepper,verythinlyslicedintoroundstablespoonslow-sodiumsoysauce

tablespoonsfreshlimejuice(from2to3limes)1.Whiskeggswith½teaspoonsalt.Heatalargenonstickskilletovermediumhigh.Swirlin1tablespoonoil.Addeggsandcook,undisturbed,untilbottomandedgesareset,about30seconds.Liftupedgesofeggswithaheatproofflexiblespatula,swirlingandtiltingpansorunnyeggsslideunderneath.Cookuntileggsaregoldeninplacesalongthebottombutstillverywetontop,about1minutemore.Gentlyslideeggsontoacuttingboard.Rollthemuplikeacigarandslicecrosswiseinto½-inch-thickstrips.

2.Wipeskilletclean;returntohighheatwithremaining1tablespoonoil.Whenoilshimmers,addginger,garlic,scallions,asparagus,andmushrooms.Cook,stirringfrequently,untilvegetablesaretenderandgoldenbrowninplaces,4to5minutes.Stirinchileandseasonwithblackpepper;cook30seconds.Addsoysauce,limejuice,andeggstripstoskillet,tossingtoevenlycoat.Serveimmediately.

AsparagusandPotatoFlatbreadOtherthanservingshavedasparagusrawinasalad,weliketouseitasatoppingfor

flatbread,alongwiththinlyslicedpotatoandcrumbledgoatcheese.(ThedishmakesanicestarterforEasterdinner.)Plumpstalksofasparagusyieldtheoptimalnumberof

shavings.

MAKES2FLATBREADS

FORTHEDOUGH

teaspoonsugar

cupwarmwater(about110°F)

cupsunbleachedall-purposeflour,plusmorefordustingteaspooncoarsesalt

cupextra-virginoliveoil,plusmoreforbowlFinecornmeal,fordusting

FORTHETOPPINGS

YukonGoldpotato,peeledandverythinlyslicedtablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil

Coarsesaltandgroundpepper

bunchasparagus(1pound),trimmedandshavedwithavegetablepeelerouncesfreshgoatcheese,crumbled(1cup)1.Makethedough:Inasmallbowl,sprinklesugarandyeastoverthewarmwater;stirwithaforkuntilyeastandsugardissolve.Letstanduntilfoamy,about5minutes.Inafoodprocessor,pulsetogetherflourandsalttocombine.Addyeastmixtureand2tablespoonsoil;pulseuntilmixturecomestogetherbutisstillslightlytacky.Doughshouldpullawaycleanlyfromyourfingersafterit’ssqueezed.Turnoutdoughontoalightlyflouredworksurface;kneadfourorfivetimes,untilasmoothballforms.Placeinalightlyoiledbowl,smoothsideup.Coverwithplasticwrap;letriseinawarmplaceuntildoubledinbulk,about40minutes.

2.Punchdowndough.Folddoughbackontoitselffourorfivetimes,thenturnsmoothsideup.Replaceplasticwrap;letdoughriseagaininawarmplaceuntildoubledinbulk,30to40minutes.

3.Preheatovento500°F,withracksinmiddleandlowerthirds.Punchdowndough;turnoutontoalightlyflouredworksurface.Usingabenchscraperorknife,dividedoughintotwopieces.Kneadeachfourorfive

times,thenformtwosmoothballs.Returnoneballtooiledbowl;coverwithplasticwrap.Patremainingballintoaflatteneddisk;coverwithwrap;letrest5minutes.Usingyourhandsorarollingpin,pressorrolloutdoughballsintotwo6-by-16-inchovals,workingfromcenteroutward.Transfertotwoparchment-linedbakingsheets.Brusheachwith1tablespoonoil.

4.Makethetoppings:Inabowl,tosspotatowith2teaspoonsoilandseasonwithsaltandpepper.Arrangeslicesondough,leavinga¼-inchborder.Bakeuntiledgesofcrustsaregoldenandpotatoisbeginningtocrisparoundedges,about12minutes,rotatinghalfwaythrough.Reduceheatto450°F.Tossasparaguswith2teaspoonsoil;seasonwithsaltandpepper.Topflatbreadwithasparagus;bakeuntilasparagusiscrisp-tender,about5minutes.Topwithcheese;bakeuntilcheeseiswarmedthrough,about3minutesmore.Drizzleeachflatbreadwith1teaspoonoil,thencutintowedges.

RhubarbChutneywithPorkRoastPiesandpastriesarenottheonlywaystoenjoyrhubarb.Thetartstalksalsowork

wondersasanaccompanimenttosavoryfoods.They’reexcellentpickled,orcookedinachutney,herewithbrownsugar,orangezest,andfreshginger,pluscelery(another

stalk).Trythechutneyasatoasttoppingalongwithslicedsharpcheese.

SERVES6

FORTHECHUTNEY

redonion,cutinto¼-inch-thickroundscupgoldenraisins

teaspoonfinelygratedpeeledfreshgingerFinelygratedzestof1orange

cupdrywhitewine,suchasSauvignonBlanccupwhite-winevinegar

cuppackedlight-brownsugar

poundrhubarb,trimmedandcutinto4-inchlengthscelerystalks,cutinto4-inchlengthsFORTHEROASTPORK

smallbonelessporkloin(about3pounds),tiedCoarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper

cuplooselypackedfreshsageorbasilleavestablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil

1.Makethechutney:Bringonion,raisins,ginger,orangezest,wine,vinegar,andbrownsugartoasimmerinasaucepanovermediumheat.

2.Addrhubarbandcelery;cover;reduceheat.Simmergentlyuntilrhubarbistenderbutnotfallingapart,about5minutes.Transferrhubarbtoabowlwithaslottedspoon.

3.Continuetosimmerliquiduntilithasthickenedandreducedandceleryistender,about10minutesmore.Transfertobowlwithrhubarb.Letcool,andchilluntilneeded.(Chutneywillkeepseveralweeksrefrigeratedinanairtightcontainer.)4.Makethepork:Preheatovento400°F.Patporkroastdryandseasonalloverwithsaltandpepper.Tuckherbsundertwine.Heatoilinalargeovenproofskilletovermedium.Addpork,fatsidedown,andcookuntilgoldenbrown,about5minutes.

Flipporkandtransfertooven.Cookuntilaninstant-readthermometerinsertedintomiddlereaches150°F,about20minutes.Letrest10minutesbeforeslicingandservingwithchutney.

TIPSamplethefinishedchutney:Ifit’stootart,addmorebrownsugar.Iftoosweet,addalittlemorevinegar.

Asparagus,Artichoke,andFarroSaladToreallyappreciatethefaintlyearthytasteofwhiteasparagus,eatitraw,preferablycombinedwithcomparablyflavoredbabyartichokes—inotherwords,inthisbright,

crispgrainsalad.Freshmintanddill,lemon,andfetaroundouttheflavors.

SERVES6TO8

cupssemipearledfarro

Zestandjuiceof1lemon

cupchoppedredonion

poundbabyartichokes,trimmed(seePrepping)bunchwhite(orgreen)asparagus(1pound)cupfreshmintleaves

cupchoppedfreshdill

ouncesfetacheese

1.Coverfarrowith3inchesofwaterinalargesaucepan.Bringtoaboiloverhighheat.Reduceheattomedium,andcookuntiltenderbutstillslightlychewy,25to30minutes.

2.Meanwhile,combinelemonzestandjuice,oil,andonioninalargebowl,thenseasonwithsaltandpepper.Drainfarroandimmediatelytosswithdressing.Letcoolcompletely.

3.Trimandpeelasparagus;thenslice,onthebias,into½-inch-thickpieces,leavingtipswhole.Addtofarroalongwithmintanddill,tossingtocombine.Addfeta,drizzlewithadditionaloil,ifdesired,andserve.

FennelandSmokedSalmonSaladFennel’smildlicoriceflavorhasanaffinityforsalty,brinyfoods,includingolives,

capers,smokedfish,andsardines.Here,wetossthinlyslicedfennelandsnippedfrondswithlemonzestandjuicetocreateatarttoppingthatcutsthroughtherichnessof

smokedsalmon.It’sagreatdishforbrunchoraholidayopenhouse,ortoservewithcocktails.

SERVES4

mediumfennelbulb,trimmedandthinlysliced,plus¼cupfennelfrondsteaspoongratedlemonzest,plus4teaspoonslemonjuiceCoarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper

ouncesthinlyslicedsmokedsalmon

Tossslicedfennelandfrondswithlemonzestandjuiceinabowl;season

Tossslicedfennelandfrondswithlemonzestandjuiceinabowl;seasonwithsaltandpepper.Arrangesalmononaplatter.Topwithfennelmixture,drizzlewithoil,andserve.

31¼1½

ClamPanRoastwithFennelandSausageManyoftheseafoodstewsoftheworld—bouillabaisse,cioppino,andcaldeiradade

peixe(fromPortugal),amongothers—allshareacommoningredient:fennel.Essentiallyacreamystew,theshellfishpanroastismostfamouslymadewithoysters,butclamsarejustastraditional,andoftenappearincombinationwithsausage;we

includetwotypes,sweetItalianandkielbasa.Pernodandtarragonaddmorelicoriceflavor.

SERVES6

garlicclove,minced

poundsweetItaliansausage,casingremovedpoundkielbasa,cutinto½-inchcubessmallredpotatoes,halved

smallfennelbulbs,trimmedandcutinto¼-inch-thickslicessmallleek,cutinto¼-inchrounds,rinsedwellcupPernodorotheranise-flavoredliqueurcupsbottledclamjuice(unsalted)

poundslittleneckclams,scrubbed

largetomatoes,cutinto8wedgeseachcuptarragonleaves

1.CookgarlicandItaliansausageinaDutchovenorheavypotovermediumheat,stirringandbreakingupmeatwithaspoon,untilsausageisnolongerpink,about5minutes;transfertoabowlwithaslottedspoon.Drainallbut1tablespoonfatfromskillet.Cookkielbasauntilcrisp,stirringoccasionally,8to10minutes.Addtobowl.

2.Arrangepotatoesinpan,cutsidedown;cookuntilgoldenbrown,5to7minutes.Flippotatoes;cookuntiljusttender,about5minutes.Scatterfenneloverpotatoes.Cookuntilfennelistender,stirringfrequently,about10minutes.

3.Addleek,Pernod,andclamjuice.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.Cookuntilvegetablesaretender,stirringoccasionally,about5minutes.Return

sausagemixturetopan;stirtocombine.Addclams,cover,andcook5minutes.Addtomatoes;cook,covered,untilclamsopen,about8minutes.

4.Discardanyunopenedclams,andremovepanfromheat.Stirintarragonandserve.

TIPTocleanclams,rinsethemundercoldrunningwaterandscrubtheshellswithastiffspongeorvegetablebrush.Discardanythatarechippedoropen.

Celery,Cilantro,andAlmondSaladForsomepeople,thetenderleavesthattoptheinnercelerystalksarethebestpart.In

prettyshadesofyellowandgreen,theyhaveadelicateceleryflavor.Theyalsomakeawonderfulsalad“green”thatcanbetossedwithvinaigrette.

SERVES4

cupalmonds

smallcelerystalks(from1bunch),thinlyslicedonthebias,tenderleavesreservedcupsfreshcilantroleaves

cupdriedcherries

tablespoonplus1teaspoonfreshlemonjuiceCoarsesalt

1.Preheatovento350°F.Toastalmondsonarimmedbakingsheetuntilfragrantanddarkened,tossingoccasionally,10to12minutes.Transfertoaplate;letcool,thencoarselychop.

2.Combinecelery(stalksandleaves),cilantro,driedcherries,andalmondsinabowl.Drizzlewithoilandlemonjuice,andseasonwithsalt.Tosstocoatandserve.

TIPAlwaysseekoutcelerybuncheswiththemostleavesatfarmstandsandgreenmarkets(andevenatsomesupermarkets).

BraisedCeleryAlong,slowbraisetransformsthetasteandtextureofcelerysoit’smoremellowand

almostsilken.Here,theheadsareleftintactandhalvedlengthwise,exposingthehearts.(Besuretopeeltheouterstalkstoremovethestrings.)Finishingthedishunderthe

broilerresultsinanicelybrownedtop.Servewithroastturkeyorpork.

SERVES8TO10

largeheadscelery,outerstalksremovedCoarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper

to6largethymesprigs

tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,cutintosmallpiecescupslow-sodiumchickenbroth

1.Preheatovento375°F,withrackinupperthird.Cuteachheadof

celeryinhalflengthwise,andpeellargerstalkswithavegetablepeeler.Trim¼inchfrombases(keepingheadsintact),thentrimtopssoeachhalfisabout12incheslong.Arrangeceleryinasinglelayer,cutsidesup,ina9-by-13-inchbakingdish.Seasongenerouslywithsaltandpepper,scatterwiththyme,anddotwithbutter.Pourinbrothandoil.

2.Coverwithparchment-linedfoil.Bakeuntilceleryistenderandeasilypiercedwiththetipofaknife,40to45minutes.Turnoventobroil,andremovefoil.Spoonbraisingjuicesovercelery,andbroiluntillightlycharredinplaces,5to10minutes.

EDAMAME

ENGLISHPEAS

FAVABEANS

GREENBEANS

SHELLBEANS

SNAPPEAS

SNOWPEAS

Wekeepwhat’spreciousstashedawaysafely,inboxesandcases,chestsandtrunks.Plantsdo,too.Inthecaseofbeans,peas, and okra, thismeans enclosing and protecting theirprecious seeds in little capsulesuntil the time is right forthemtobesentforthintothefuture.Ediblepodsandtheircontents,knowncollectivelyaslegumes,havebeenpartofhumanagriculturesincetheearliestdays—andcontinuetobe a significant aspect of diets theworld over.Because itturns out that those same seeds in which the plant hasinvesteditshopeandnourishmentforthenextgenerationarefullofgoodthingsforourbodies,too.

Unlike most plants grown for food, which have just asinglephaseofripeedibility,legumeshavebeencultivatedtobeeatenateverystageofmaturity.Thisistruewhethertheygrowonbushesorvines(orpoles).Somevarietiesareharvested when the shells are sweet and tender and theseeds barely formed (as with snow peas, okra, and greenbeans), others when the seeds are fully grown but stilldelicate, and the pods coarse (as with English peas,edamame, and fava beans). Still others come to marketdriedhardaspebbles.OnephaseAmericancooksare lessfamiliarwithisthefresh-shelledone,whenthehusksturnpapery around the seeds, which are mature but not yetdried.Thesebeansandpeasareabuttery,nuttyrevelation—andjustonemoretreasuretobefoundnestledinsideapod.

THEBASICS

SEASONALITYFavabeanpodsarelinedwithavelvetyfuzz,whichmusthelpkeepthebeanswarmastheygerminateandgrowinwinter.Byearlyspring,they’rereadytoeat;lookforfavasinlateAprilandMay.Englishpeas,sugarsnappeas,andsnowpeasfollowcloseontheirtails;you’llfindthemthroughoutspringandearlysummer.Greenbeansandokraarewarm-weatherplants,andareharvestedthroughoutthesummer.Shellbeans,likecranberryandlima,turnupingreenmarketsjustassummermovestofall.Oncetheirseasonhaspassed,driedbeansareafinesubstitute.Besuretobuythemfromashopwithahighturnover(preferablysoldinbulk)ordirectlyfromspecialtysourcessuchasRanchoGordoorZürsunIdahoHeirloomBeans.

BUYINGLookforgreenbeansandfreshpeasofallsortsthatareabrightgreenwithnoyellowing(unlessyouarebuyingwaxbeans),andmakesuretheshellsaretender.Greenbeansandsnowpeasshouldneverfeelleatheryorhollow,andtheseedsshouldbesmallandfullyembeddedinthepod’sinterior,ratherthanrattlingaround.Englishpeas,favabeans,andotherfreshshellingbeansshouldbulgeslightlywithintheirpods—neithertoobignortoosmall.Becausethesevegetablesbegintolosefreshnessthemomenttheyareharvested,buythemasrecentlypickedasyoucan—atafarmstandorgreenmarket.Okrashouldbevelvetyandvividincolor.

NOTABLEVARIETIESGreenandwaxbeans:Greenbeans,includingpurple-coloredvarietiesandyellowwaxbeans,arethemostcommonofthebushorpolebeans.Haricotsvertsarealsoafamiliaroption,whileRomanobeansareamongthemorecommonheirloomvarieties.It’sworthseekingoutpurplevarieties,suchasRoyalBurgundyorpurpleRomanobeans,forservingraw,andalsofortheirdistinctiveflavors.

Shellbeans:Thosedriedbeansinyourpantrystartedoutasshellbeans,whichyoucanbuyintheirpodsduringtheirbriefseason.Freshoneshaveanincomparablycreamytexture,don’tneedtobesoakedpriortocooking,andcookmorequicklythandried.Amongthemostwidelyavailablearemottledcranberrybeans,edamame,andlimabeans.Also,keepyoureyeoutforheirloomvarieties(andtheirdescriptivenames):Jacob’sCattle,scarletrunner,PinkHalf-Runner,BlackCalypso,borlotti,andTonguesofFire,tonameafewchefs’favorites.

STORINGRefrigeratepods,looselywrappedinaplasticbag—butnotforlong.Tender,freshgreenbeansandpeasarethemostephemeralofvegetables.That’sbecausetheirshellsaredesignedtotransfermoistureandsugarsintotheseeds,whicharethemselvesworkingontransformingthesugarsintostarch—processesdesignedtobenefitfuturegenerationsoftheplant,butnotcooksoreaters.Freshshellbeanscanbestoredinapaperbagintherefrigeratorforuptothreedays.

PREPPINGWithgreenbeans,snappeas,andsnowpeas,trimonlythestemendandnotthetapered—anddelectable—tip.It’sthesamewithsugarsnapandsnowpeas.WhenshellingEnglishpeas,edamame,andshellbeans,twistthepodgentlytocrackitopenandreleasethetastycontents.Onepoundofpodsequalsaboutacupofpeasandbeans.(Wefindfrozenpeastobeafinesubstituteforfresh;thawthemquicklyinacolanderunderrunningtepidtapwater.)Favabeanpodscanbesimilarlyopened,buttheseedsrequireafurtherstepbeforebecomingedible:Blanchthemforaminuteinboilingwater,plungethemintoanicebath,thenpeeloffthemilk-whitemembraneencasingeachone.(Unless,ofcourse,yougrillthem.)Okrapodsarecoveredinafuzzthatcanbecomepricklywithage;wrapseveralattimeinakitchentowel,andrubgentlytoremovefuzzbeforecooking.

COOKINGIfyou’veevertastedasugarsnappeaorgreenbeanpluckedstraightfromthevine,youknowthatthebestlegumesneedneverseetheinsideofakitchen.Butsincemostvegetablestraveltoreachourtables,cookingthemisinorder.Usually,alltheyneedisaquickdipinrapidlyboiling,saltedwater—but“quick”canbeanywherefromonetosevenminutesdependingonageandvariety,sosampleasyoucook,then

fromonetosevenminutesdependingonageandvariety,sosampleasyoucook,thendrainandplungeintoicewatertostopthecookingandbrightentheircolor.Okra,traditionallyusedtothickenstews,tasteswonderfulbatteredandfried.Andokra,alongwithgreenbeans,isaclassicforpickling.

HOWTOSTEAM(Forallpodsexceptshellbeans)RemoveEnglishpeasandfavabeansfromthepodsandpeelfavas;trimgreenbeans,okra,andsnapandsnowpeas.Placeinasteamerbasket(orcolander)setinapotfilledwith1inchofwater;bringtoaboil.Coverandsteamuntilpodsaretenderandcolorbrightens,2to7minutes.Drizzlewitholiveoil,seasonwithsalt,andsqueezeahalvedlemonoverthetop.

HOWTOBRAISE(Forfavabeans,greenbeans,okra,shellbeans)Removefavaandshellbeansfrompodsandpeelfavas;trimgreenbeansandokra.Heatoliveoilorbutterinaskilletovermediumhigh,thencookfinelychoppedonionandmincedgarlicuntilsoftened.Addvegetablesandseasonwithsaltandpepper,thenaddenoughliquid(chickenorvegetablebroth,supplementedwithasplashofwineorvinegarifdesired)tocoverby1inchalongwithabayleaf.Simmer,withpanpartiallycovered,untiltenderandliquidhasthickened,8to10minutesforfava,okra,andgreenbeans,30minutesforshell.Sprinklewithfreshherbs,suchasparsleyorthyme,andshavedcheesesuchasPecorinoRomano(spikeokrawithhot-peppersauce).

HOWTOROAST(Forgreenbeansandokra)Trimgreenbeansandokra.Drizzlewitholiveoilonarimmedbakingsheet,andseasonwithsaltandpepper.Youcanalsoaddsomewholepeeledgarlicclovesorthinlyslicedpeeledfreshginger.Tosstocombineandspreadevenly.Roastat400°Funtiltenderandbrownedinspots,tossinghalfwaythrough,15to20minutes.Sprinklewithchoppedfreshmintorcilantro.

HOWTOGRILL(ForallpodsexceptEnglishpeasandshellbeans)Trimgreenbeans,okra,andsnapandsnowpeas.Grillvegetablesinavegetablegrillingpanorthreadedonskewers(tokeepthemfromslippingthroughthegrates)untilcharredinspots,2to7minutes,turningasneeded.

untilcharredinspots,2to7minutes,turningasneeded.

HOWTOBLANCH(Forallpodsexceptshellbeans)RemoveEnglishpeasandfavabeansfromthepods,andpeelfavas;trimgreenbeans,okraandsnapandsnowpeas.Bringvegetablesandenoughwatertocovertoaboilinapot;addsaltandboiluntilvegetablesaretender,2to5minutes.Drainandseasonwhilewarm;orplungeintoanice-waterbathtostopthecooking,thendrainagain.

HOWTOSIMMER(Forshellbeans)Removebeansfromthepods.Placebeansinapotwithenoughwatertocoverby4inches.Seasongenerouslywithsalt,andbringtoaboil,thenreduceheatandsimmeruntilbeansaretenderandcreamy,20to30minutes,dependingontypeofbean.Drainwell.Drizzlewitholiveoil,sprinklewithchoppedparsleyorthyme,andseasonwithred-pepperflakesortopwithgratedorshavedParmesancheese.

FLAVORPAIRINGSTosscookedyoungbeansandpeaswithbutterandapinchofsalt,addinggentlytornherbslikemintormarjoramifyoulike—thesespringtimebabiesneedlittletotastesublime.Andthebuttery,nutty,orearthyflavorsofshellbeanscanstanduptoboldlate-summeringredientsandrichfallflavors,includingheartygreens.

EDAMAME:garlic,ginger,chilipeppers,orangezest,soysauce,tomatoes,cornENGLISH

PEAS:mint,parsley,butter,bacon,onions,cream,lettuceFAVABEANS:oliveoil,olives,basil,parsley,sheeps’-milkcheeses,peas,lambGREENBEANS:basil,tomatoes,parsley,lemonzest,ginger,garlic,thymeOKRA:tomatoes,vinegar,cornmeal,bellpeppers,shrimpSHELLBEANS:garlic,sausage,bittergreens,Parmesan,rosemary,tomatoesSNAPPEAS:dill,carrots,ginger,basil,lemon,chiles,garlicSNOWPEAS:sesame,peanuts,ginger,garlic,soysauce,bellpeppers

THERECIPES

BlanchedSugarSnapPeas,ThreeWays

RisieBisi

Green-PeaBurgerswithHarissaMayo

CranberryBeanSaladwithDelicataSquashandBroccoliRabe

RoastedWaxBeanswithPeanutsandCilantro

GreenBean,ShellBean,andSweetOnionFattoush

GrilledFavaBeans

CreamyFavaBeans

BeefandSnap-PeaStir-Fry

GreenBeanandWatercressSalad

TempuraGreenBeans

Quick-PickledPods

BlanchedSugarSnapPeas,ThreeWaysFreshfromthegardenorfarmstand,sugarsnappeasaretenderandsweetenoughtoeatraw,asasnackorwithdipsascrudités.They’realsodeliciousblanched,whichleaves

theflavorintactasitbrightensthecolor.Weliketoservesugarsnapswithsimplesauces,madewiththepod’sfavoriteflavors:freshherbsandlemon.

SERVES4

Coarsesalt

poundsugarsnappeas

Inalargepotofboilingsaltedwater,cooksnappeasuntilcrisp-tenderandbrightgreen,about2minutes.Drainandtosswithdesiredsauce.

DILLBUTTER

Melt2tablespoonsunsaltedbutterinasmallsaucepanovermedium-lowheat.Removefromheatandstirin¼cupchoppedfreshdill.Tosswithwarmpeas.

Sprinkle¼teaspooncoarsesaltover1peeledgarliccloveonacuttingboard,thencoarselychop;usingaflatsideoftheknife,crushintoathickpaste.Transfertoafoodprocessor;add¼cuptoastedpinenuts(orwalnuts),3cupspackedfreshbasilleaves,and1tablespoonextra-virginoliveoil.Pulseuntilfinelychopped.Withmachinerunning,add½cupmoreoilinaslow,steadystream,untilcombined.Add¼cupgratedParmigiano-Reggianocheeseandpulsetocombine.Seasonwithsaltand

Parmigiano-Reggianocheeseandpulsetocombine.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.(Pestocanbestoredinanairtightcontainer,withalayerofoliveoilontop,upto1weekintherefrigerator.)Tosswithwarmpeas.

LEMON-CILANTRO

Toast2tablespoonscorianderseedsinadryskilletovermediumheat,shakingpanfrequently,untilfragrant,2to3minutes.Transfertoaplateandletcool,thenlightlycrushwiththeflatsideofachef’sknife.Combinewithstripsofzestof1lemon,2tablespoonsricevinegar(unseasoned),and¼cupchoppedfreshcilantro.Tosswithwarmpeas.

TIPYoucanuseanyofthesesauceswithsnowpeas.Blanchasdirectedabove.

½1½½

RisieBisiOneofourfavoritewaystoshowcasefreshpeasisinthistraditionalVenetiandish

(“riceandpeas”).Preparedproperly,it’sslightlysoupierthanrisotto,andaccordingtoculinarylore,itissupposedtocontainonepeaforeverygrainofrice—meaningthe

dishisjustasmuchaboutthepeasastherice.That’sjustthewaywelikeit,toppedwithgratedlemonzestandfreshlygratedParmesan.

SERVES4

cupshelledgreenpeas(from1poundinpods),or1cupthawedfrozenpeasCoarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper

cupslow-sodiumvegetablebroth

cupArboriorice

cupdrywhitewine,suchasSauvignonBlancteaspoonfinelygratedlemonzestplus2tablespoonsfreshlemonjuice,plusmorezestforservingcupfinelychoppedfreshflat-leafparsleycupfinelygratedParmigiano-Reggianocheese,plusmoreforserving1.Blanchfreshpeasinapotofsaltedboilingwateruntiljusttenderandbrightgreen,3to4minutes.Transfertoanice-waterbathandletcoolcompletely.Drain.(Ifusingfrozenpeas,skipthisstep.)2.Bringbrothtoasimmerinamediumsaucepan;covertokeepwarm.

3.Heat2tablespoonsoilovermediuminanothersaucepan.Cookonion,stirringfrequently,untilsoft,6to7minutes.Addrice,cook,stirring,untiledgesaretranslucent,2to3minutes.Addwine;cook,stirring,justuntilevaporated.

4.Add½cuphotbroth;cook,stirring,untilalmostabsorbed.Continueadding½cupbrothinthismanneruntilliquidiscreamyandriceisaldente,about20minutestotal(youmaynotneedtoaddallthebroth).Addpeasabout1minutebeforerisottoisfinishedcooking.

5.Removefromheat;stirinlemonzestandjuice,parsley,cheese,andremaining2tablespoonsoil.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.Serveimmediately,toppedwithmorecheeseandlemonzest.

Green-PeaBurgerswithHarissaMayoBecausetheirseasonissofleeting,itmakessensetohaveanumberofwaysinwhichtoenjoyfreshgardenpeas,especiallyoneortwounexpectedoptions.Peasnotonlylendbright-greenvegetableburgersalovelyflavor(andcolor),theyalsohelpkeepthemmoist.Thesepackalotofprotein(hereaidedbyahalfcupofchickpeas).Servethe

burgersonbriocherollswithbabygreens,cucumberslices,andharissa-spikedmayonnaise.

SERVES4

cupshelledgreenpeas(from1poundinpods),or1cupthawedfrozenpeasCoarsesalt

cupcookedchickpeas(rinsedanddrained)smallonion,finelychopped

tablespoonsfreshflat-leafparsley,choppedlargeegg,whisked

cupfreshbreadcrumbs(from3to4sliceswhitebread)tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil

cupmayonnaise

tablespoonsharissa

briocherolls,splitandtoasted

cupmixedbabygreens

Englishcucumber,cutintothinrounds1.Blanchfreshpeasinapotofsaltedboilingwateruntiljusttenderandbright,3to4minutes.Transfertoanice-waterbath,andletcoolcompletely.Drain.(Ifusingfrozenpeas,skipthisstep.)2.Inafoodprocessor,pulsepeasandchickpeasuntilcoarselychopped.Transfertoabowlandstirinonion,parsley,egg,andbreadcrumbs.Seasonwithsalt.Formintofourpatties,eachabout¾inchthick.

3.Heatoilinalargenonstickskilletovermedium.Cookburgersuntilgoldenandcrisp,about4minutesperside.

4.Stirtogethermayonnaiseandharissainasmallbowluntilcombined.Spreadonbriocherolls.Dividetheburgers,babygreens,andcucumberamongrolls;serve.

CranberryBeanSaladwithDelicataSquashandBroccoliRabeSimmeredcranberrybeans—alsocalledRoman

beans,withaflavorsimilartochestnuts—arethefoundationofthisheartyfallsalad

thatincludesroasteddelicatasquash,sautéedbroccolirabe,andcrumbled

bacon.Itmakesadelicioussidedishforafamily-stylemeal.Skipthebaconandyouhaveawonderfulvegetarianmaindish.

SERVES6

mediumonion

driedbayleaf

or5wholeblackpeppercorns

poundsfreshcranberrybeans,shelled(about3cups)cupplus1tablespoonextra-virginoliveoil,plusmoreforbrushingCoarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper

smalldelicatasquash(about1¾pounds),cutinto½-inch-thickslicesslicesbacon(4ounces)

garliccloves,minced

bunchbroccolirabe,washedandtrimmed(about1pound)1.Usingasharpknife,sliceoffstemendofonion,andscoreshallowslitsallover,makingsureonionstaysintact.Placeinalargesaucepanwiththebayleafandthepeppercorns;fillwith3quartswater.Bringtoaboil;reduceheat,andsimmer20minutes.Addbeans;simmeruntilcookedthrough,about15minutes.Drainbeans,reservingcookingliquid.Inabowl,tossbeanswith1tablespooneachoilandcookingliquid;seasonwithsaltandpepper.

2.Meanwhile,preheatovento425°F.Arrangesquashonarimmedbakingsheet,brushwithoil,andseasonwithsaltandpepper.Roastuntiltenderandgoldenbrown,about20minutes.

3.Whilesquashisroasting,cookbaconinalargeskilletovermediumheatuntilcrisp,turningoccasionally,about8minutes.Transferbacontopapertowelstodrain.Wipeskilletclean.

4.Heat3tablespoonsoilinthesameskilletovermedium.Addgarlic,andsautéuntiljustgolden,1to2minutes.Addbroccolirabe;sautéuntilwiltedandheatedthrough,about5minutes.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.

5.Addbeansandsquashtoskillet,andcookjustuntilheatedthrough.Drizzlewithremainingtablespoonofoil,andseasonwithsaltandpepper.Sprinklereservedbaconontopandserve.

Popedamameoutoftheirpods,anduseasyouwouldgardenpeas,limabeans,orfavabeans.Theyreplacelimasinthisupdateonsuccotash,aclassicsummertimesidedish.

SERVES4TO6

cupfreshbasilleaves

cupplus2tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoilCoarsesalt

scallions,finelysliced

garliccloves,minced

cupscornkernels

cupshellededamame(thawed,iffrozen)poundcherrytomatoes

2 tablespoonswhitebalsamicvinegar

1.Blanchbasilinasmallpotofboilingwaterfor10seconds.Transfertoanice-waterbathuntilcool,thendrainandsqueezedry.Puréebasil,¼cupoil,and½teaspoonsaltinablenderorfoodprocessoruntilsmooth.

2.Heatremaining2tablespoonsoilinalargeskilletovermediumhigh.Addscallionsandgarlic;cook,stirring,untilfragrant,about30seconds.Addcornandedamame,andseasonwithsalt.Cook,stirringoccasionally,untilcornstartstocaramelize,about10minutes(reduceheatifoverbrowning).Addtomatoes(halved,iflarge)andvinegar;cook,stirringoccasionally,untiltomatoesstarttocollapse,about8minutes.Drizzlebasiloilonvegetables,stirtocombine,andserve.

RoastedWaxBeanswithPeanutsandCilantroRoastingbeansuntiltenderandcaramelizedbringsouttheirsweetness.Trythemasasnack,orinthissidedish,tossedwithasavorysweetsauce,peanuts,

andcilantro.SERVES4

poundwaxbeans,trimmed

tablespoonsaffloweroil

teaspoonslow-sodiumsoysauce

teaspoonfinelygratedpeeledfreshgingerteaspoonfreshlemonjuice

teaspoonlight-brownsugar

cupunsaltedpeanuts

cupfreshcilantroleaves

1.Preheatovento450°F.Onarimmedbakingsheet,tosstogetherwaxbeansandoil,andseasonwithsaltandpepper.Roastuntilbrownedinspotsandtender,tossinghalfwaythrough,about15minutes.

2.Inalargebowl,combinesoysauce,ginger,lemonjuice,andsugar.Addroastedbeans,peanuts,andcilantro.Tosstocombineandserve.

GreenBean,ShellBean,andSweetOnionFattoushInlatesummer,freshgreen

beansandshellbeansmakeawonderfulpair,onesharpandcrisp-tender,theother

butteryandplump.They’rethebeginningsofourversionoffattoush,aMiddleEasternbreadsaladthat’safinewaytoenjoysummerproduce.Youcan

blanchthebeansinthesamepot:firstthegreenbeans,andthentheshell(andnottheotherwayaround,sinceshellbeans

releasealotofstarch).SERVES4

lemons,1zestedandbothjuiced

garliccloves,crushed

cupextra-virginoliveoil,plusmoreforbrushingpoundharicotsverts,trimmed

cupshelledfreshshellbeans,suchaslimaspitabreads(6-inch)

largeVidaliaonion,coarselychopped

Englishcucumber,quarteredandcutinto1-inchpiecesouncesfetacheese,crumbled

cupcoarselychoppedfreshmint,plusmoreforgarnishcupcoarselychoppedfreshflat-leafparsley1.Whisktogetherlemonzest,lemonjuice,andgarlic,andseasonwith

salt.Whiskingconstantly,pourinoilinaslow,steadystreamandwhiskuntilemulsified.Seasonwithpepper.Letstand15minutes;discardgarlic.

2.Blanchharicotsvertsinapotofsaltedboilingwateruntilcrisp-tenderandbrightgreen,about1minute.Transferbeanstoanice-waterbath(reservepotofwater);letcool,thenremoveandpatdry.Placeinalargebowl.

3.Returnwatertoaboil.Blanchshellbeansuntiljusttender,18to20minutes.Transfertoicebath;letcool,thendraininacolanderandpatdry.Combinewithharicotsverts.

4.Heatagrill(orgrillpan)tomedium.Spliteachpitainhalf.Brushbothsidesofpitahalveswithoil;seasonwithsaltandpepper.Grillpita,turningonce,untilgoldenandcrisp,about1minuteperside.Letcool,thentearinto1-inchpieces.

5.Addonion,cucumber,feta,herbs,andpitatothebeans;drizzlewith½cupvinaigrette;tosswelltocombine.Seasonwithsaltandpepper;garnishwithmint.Letstandatleast10minutesandupto1hourbeforeserving.

TIPThepitaischarredonthegrill(orunderthebroiler)tomakeitsturdyenoughtosoakupthevinaigrettewithoutfallingapart.Thelongerthesaladsitsbeforeserving(uptoanhour),thebettertheflavorsandtextureswillbe.

16½¼

Manyadeliciousmealcanbebuiltaroundfreshshellbeans.TheItaliansaremastersofthisart,cookingthebeanswithsimpleseasoningsandthenservingthemwithwiltedgreensandgratedcheeseontop.Servewithtoastedbread,mashingsomeofthebeanson

topasyougo.

SERVES4

poundfreshcannellinibeans,shelled(about1¼cups)garliccloves,5leftwholeand1mincedcupand2tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil,plusmorefordrizzlingcupfreshthymeleaves

bunchdandeliongreens,toughstemstrimmedtablespoonredwinevinegar

Crostini,forserving

Freshbasil,forserving

1.Combinebeans,wholegarliccloves,½cupoil,andthymeinalargepotwithenoughwatertocover.Bringtoaboil,thenreduceheatandsimmeruntilbeansaretender,30to35minutes.Seasonwithsalt,andcontinuecooking5moreminutes.Letcoolcompletelyincookingliquid,thendrain.

2.Meanwhile,heatremaining2tablespoonsoilinalargeskilletovermediumhigh.Addmincedgarlic,andcook,stirringfrequently,untilsoftened,about2minutes.Adddandeliongreens,andcook,tossing,justuntilwilted,about1minute.Seasonwithsaltandpepper,andaddvinegar.

3.Servebeanswithdandeliongreensandcrostini.Drizzlewithoil,sprinklewithcheese,andtopwithbasil.

TIPLeftoverbeanscanbefrozen,inanairtightcontainer,foruptothreemonths;thawovernightintherefrigeratorbeforeusing.

GrilledFavaBeansGenerallyspeaking,favabeanshavetobeshelledandskinned,atime-consuming(butrewarding)process.Here’sawonderfulshortcut:Youcansimplygrillthemintheir

pods,thenpopoutthebeans,nopeelingrequired.Servethemwithamintyherbsauce,andsprinklemoremintandfreshlemonjuiceoverthetop.

SERVES4

poundfavabeans(stillinpods)

cupfinelychoppedfreshmint,plusmoreforservingcupextra-virginoliveoil

Juiceof½lemon,pluswedgesforserving

1.Heatgrilltohigh.Cleanandlightlyoilhotgrill.Grillfavasdirectlyon

grates,turning,untilcharred,10to12minutes.Letcoolslightly.

2.Meanwhile,stirtogethermintandoilinasmallbowl,andseasonwithsaltandpepper.

3.Toserve,sprinklefavaswithlemonjuiceandmoremint,andseasonwithsalt.Servewithherbsauceandlemonwedgesontheside.

CreamyFavaBeansSimmeringfavabeanswithchickenbrothandalittleheavycreammakesadelectableaccompanimentforpan-seared,poached,orgrilledchickenbreast,asshownhere.Thistakesjustlongenoughforthefavastobecomecrisp-tenderandfortheliquidstoreduce

slightlytoformasauce.

SERVES4

poundfavabeans,shelled

leek(whiteandpale-greenpartsonly),thinlysliced,rinsedwellcuplow-sodiumchickenbroth

tablespoonheavycream

1.Prepareanice-waterbath.Blanchfavabeansinapotofboilingwateruntilbrightgreen,about1minute.Transfertoice-waterbathusingaslottedspoon.Letcool,thenslipbeansfromskins(discardskins).

2.Heatbutterinalargeskilletovermediumhigh.Sautéleekuntilsoftened,stirringfrequently,about5minutes.Addfavasandbroth;cook,stirring,1minute.Stirincream,andsimmerfor2minutes.Removefromheat,andstirinlemonjuice.Seasonwithsaltandpepperwhenreadytoserve.

BeefandSnap-PeaStir-FryAstheirnamesuggests,thesepeasliterallysnapwhenbroken,thankstotheirfirmness.That’swhythey’reoftenusedinstir-fries,inwhichcasetheyarecookedlightningfast,justuntilcrispandbright(they’lllosethatsnapifcookedtoolong).Thinlyslicedsteakisalsoagoodchoiceforstir-frying,asitbrownsquicklyinahotpan.Here,scallions,

freshginger,red-pepperflakes,andlimejuiceroundouttheflavors.

SERVES4

poundsirloinsteak,thinlyslicedcrosswise,halvediflongtablespooncornstarch

teaspoonssaffloweroil

ouncessnappeas

to6scallions,whiteandgreenpartsseparated,boththinlyslicedonthebiastablespoongratedpeeledfreshginger

to½teaspoonred-pepperflakes

cupwater

tablespoonsfreshlimejuice

Whiteorbrownrice,orricenoodles,forserving

1.Placesteakinabowl.Sprinklewithcornstarch,andseasonwithsaltandpepper;tosstocoat.Inalargewokorskillet,heatoilovermedium-high.Cookhalfthesteakuntilbrownedononeside,1to2minutes(steakwillcookfurtherinstep2);transfertoaplate.Repeatwithremainingbeef.

2.Addsnappeas,whitepartsofscallions,ginger,red-pepperflakes,andthewatertowok;seasonwithsaltandpepper.Cookuntilsnappeasturncrisp-tenderandbrightgreen,1to2minutes.Returnsteaktowokandcookuntilcookedthrough,1to2minutes.Removefromheat,mixingreenpartofscallionsandthelimejuice,andserveoverriceornoodles.

GreenBeanandWatercressSaladConsiderthisanupgradeonthebelovedgreen-beancasserole,oneinwhichtheflavorof

thepodsreallyshinesthrough.Crisp,goldenfriedshallotsaresprinkledontop.

SERVES8

poundgreenbeans,trimmed

cupsaffloweroil

shallots,thinlyslicedcrosswiseintoringsteaspoonsall-purposeflour

tablespoonsDijonmustard

bunchwatercress,toughstemstrimmed

1.Blanchgreenbeansinalargepotofsaltedboilingwateruntilcrisp-tenderandbrightgreen,2to3minutes.Transfertoanice-waterbathtocool.Drainandpatdry.

2.Heatsaffloweroilovermediumlowinasmallsaucepanuntilshimmering.Meanwhile,inasmallbowl,tossshallotswithflour.Workinginbatches,fryshallotsinoiluntilbrownandcrisp,2to4minutes.Transfershallotstopapertowelswithaslottedspoonormeshspiderandseasongenerouslywithsalt.

3.Whisktogetherlemonjuice,mustard,andoliveoilinanotherbowl;seasonwithsaltandpepper.Placewatercressonaservingplatter,anddrizzlewithhalfthedressing.Topwithgreenbeansandremainingdressing.Servesprinkledwithfriedshallots.

TempuraGreenBeansGreenbeansmakeexcellentcandidatesfortempura,sinceyougetanicecontrastoflight,puffycrustandtenderbeansthatretainsomeoftheirtrademarkcrispness.

SERVES4

cupsDijonmustard

teaspoondrymustard

teaspoonshotsauce

tablespoonssoysauce

cuphoney

Grapeseedorsaffloweroil

largeeggwhites

2¾1 cupsplus2tablespoonsclubsodaorseltzer(fromanewbottle)poundgreenbeans,trimmed

Coarsesalt

1.Heatmustards,hotsauce,soysauce,andhoneyinapanoverlow,whisking,untilsmoothandheatedthrough,about5minutes.Transfertoabowl;letcool.

2.Heat4inchesofoilinalargepotovermediumhighuntiloilreaches350°Fonadeep-frythermometer.Meanwhile,whiskeggwhitestosoftpeaks.Whiskinflourandclubsodajustuntilcombined,withlumpsremaining.

3.Workinginbatches,dipbeansintobatter,lettinganyexcessdripoff,thencarefullyplaceinhotoil.Cook,stirringoccasionallytokeepbeansfromstickingtogether,untillightgoldenbrown,about3minutes.Transferbeanstopaper-towel-linedplatetodrain;seasonwithsalt.Repeatwithremainingbeans,returningoilto350°Fbetweenbatches.Serveimmediately,withdippingsauce.

Quick-PickledPodsTryquick-picklingwhenyouhaveabountyofpeak-of-seasonsummercrops;the

vegetablesmaintaintheirbitewhiletakingontheflavoroftheseasonings.Here,waxbeans,greenbeans,andokraarepickledwiththesamebrine.Ifyou’reunfamiliarwith

okra,picklingisawonderfulwaytogettoknow(andlove)thisSouthernstaple.

MAKES2QUARTS

poundwaxbeans,greenbeans,orokra,trimmedthymesprigs

cupswhite-winevinegar

cupssugar

garliccloves

teaspoonfennelseeds

teaspooncorianderseeds

teaspoonmustardseeds

teaspoonwholeblackpeppercorns

cupwater

1.Dividepodsintotwoquart-sizeglassjars,arrangingpodsupright;place2thymesprigsineachjar.

2.Inasmallsaucepan,bringvinegar,sugar,garlic,fennelseeds,corianderseeds,mustardseeds,peppercorns,andthewatertoaboil.Reduceheatandsimmer10minutes.Letcoolcompletely.

3.Pourcooledbrineoverbeansorokra,leavinga½-inchspaceatthetopofeachjar.Coverandrefrigerateatleast3days(andupto2months)beforeserving.

FIDDLEHEADFERNS

MICROGREENS

PEASHOOTS

SPROUTS

SHOOTS

Whetherdestinedtobecomepeaorpumpkin,avegetableseedbeginslifethesameway.Whenconditionsareright,itdropsanchor,sendingoutalittlerootsprouttosecureittothesoil.Next,itraisesaslendercotyledon,aleafshootthat’salreadypresentinsideeachseed.Itstinywingsthusoutstretched, the plant can begin taking in theminerals,water, and sunlight it needs to pursue its vegetabledestiny.

Wehumansfinddeliciousnesswherevernaturehidesit,soit’snowonderweenjoytheseearlieststagesofplant life.Thepale,crispsproutsthatshowupinpadthaiareinfantroots frommungor soybean seeds; the fluffy green sprouts piledup onsandwichescometypicallyfromalfalfaorradishseeds.Andthebeautifultanglesofminiatureleavescrowningmanyrestaurantcreationsconsistofpea shoots ormicrogreens, the first true leaves ofpeas, beets, andothervegetables.Evenfernsmaybeeatenatthis infantstageofdevelopment—as fiddleheads, the tightly spiraled frondsofplants that actually turntoxicwhenfullgrown.

Shootsrewardimpatience:mostcanbeeatenwithinaweekofplanting.But speed isn’t theironlyvirtue;microgreensaredensewith flavorandnutrients.When you harvest these crops young, the nutrients aremoreconcentrated than in a full-grown plant. The flavors in shoots areintensified, too:Radish sprouts taste like radishes; sunflower greens arenutty. So you can let nature prepare these vegetables for you, andtransformsomethinginedibleintoanourishingtreat.

THEBASICS

SEASONALITYFiddleheadsareavailableAprilthroughJune.Peashootsturnupinspringandfallifthey’vebeenthinnedfrompeacrops;butifyoufindapurveyorwhocultivatesthemasacropintheirownright,theymaybeofferedyear-round,whichisalsotrueofmostmicrogreens.Sprouts,too,aregrownindoorsandavailableyear-round.

BUYINGLookforcrisp,brightlycoloredpeashootsandmicrogreensatfarmers’marketsandspecialtystores.Certainpurveyorswillharvestthemonthespot,cuttingthetinyplantsfromthetraysinwhichtheygerminated.Oftenforagedratherthancultivated,fiddleheadsalsoshowupmostoftenatgreenmarkets;selectsmall,tightlycoiledfrondswithlittletonostalk,andonlyfromtheostrichfern—otherspeciesshouldbeavoided.Asforsprouts,lookforthosewithcrisp,white“necks”withoutatraceofbrowningorwilting,andbesuretobuyfromareputablesource;thesamewarm,moistconditionsthatallowseedstogerminatecanalsobreedpathogens.(That’swhytheCentersforDiseaseControlandPreventionandotherfederalagencieschargedwithfoodsafetyadvisechildren,theelderly,pregnantwomen,andpersonswithweakenedimmunesystemstoavoideatingrawsproutsofanykind,includingalfalfa,clover,radish,andmungbeansprouts.Intheseinstances,cooksproutsthoroughlytoreducetheriskofillness.Cookingshouldkilltheharmfulbacteria.)NOTABLEVARIETIES

Microgreens:Youcanfindmicro-cropsofmanydifferentherbs,vegetables,evengrainsatgourmetgrocersandfarmers’markets.Cressisintenselyflavorfulwithsubtlespice;arugulahasamildpepperyflavor;beetgreens,broccoli,andkaleareallmildandslightlysweetwithtenderleavesonacrunchystem;mustardgreenstastelikehorseradish;mizunaisfairlymild;tatsoihasamild,sweet,cabbage-likeflavor.Herbmicrogreenstastelikeconcentratedversionsoftheherbs;basil,chervil,cilantro,dill,andgarlicchivesareallworthseekingout.Sunflowergreensarenuttyanddelicious;amaranthismildlyspicyandavibrantshadeofpink-red.

Sprouts:Whilealfalfasproutsarebyfarthemostcommon(andeasiesttofind),therearemanyothersthataresoldatnatural-foodstoresandfarmers’markets.Cloversproutsaresimilarinappearanceandflavortoalfalfa;radishsproutsareconsideredthespiciest;lentilsproutshaveapepperytaste;sunflowersproutsaremildandslightlysweet,similartoalfalfa;mungbeansproutsarecrispandnutty;garbanzosprouts,whichlookjustlikethebeans,areverycrunchyandbeany;adzukisproutshaveapronouncedleafyflavor.

STORINGShoots,sprouts,microgreens,andfiddleheadsshouldbeeatenwithinadayofpurchase.Storesproutswrappedinpapertowelsinanopenplasticbagintherefrigerator.Shoots,microgreens,orfiddleheadsmaybeenclosedinalooselyfoldedplasticbag.

PREPPINGWashsproutsthoroughly,firstsubmergingtheminseveralchangesofcoolwater,thenrinseanddrywell.Gentlyrinsepeashootsandmicrogreensandspindry.Withfiddleheads,firstbrushoffanyfuzzyorpaperysheaths,thensubmergetheminabowlfilledwithcoolwatermixedwithasqueezeoflemonandadashofsalt.

COOKINGEatenraw,microgreensandpeashootsshowofftheirintense,greenvitality;addthemtosaladsorsprinklethemovermaindishessuchasfishorsteak.Theycanalsobestirredintorisottosandotherstewsatthelastminute,wheretheywillwiltintheresidualheat.Delicatesproutssuchasalfalfaandradisharebestinsaladsandsandwiches,whilecrispermungandsoybeansproutsareoftensautéedwithstir-friesaminuteortwobeforeserving,inadditiontobeingusedasagarnish.Fiddleheadsarebestlightlysteamedorblanched,thensautéedinoilorbutter.

FLAVORPAIRINGSFiddleheadshaveechoesofasparagusandgreenbeansandcanbeusedinsimilarwaystobothofthose“grassy”vegetables—namelyineggdishes,salads,andwithlamborfish.Thinkofpeashootsassprightlyversionsofpeasandpairthem

accordingly(withotherspringproduce,saltyhams,richcheeses,rice,andothergrains).Inthecaseofflavorpartners,therearebasicallytwokindsofsprouts:thosethataredelicateintexture(alfalfaandradish)andthesturdierbeansprouts(mungandchickpea).Asformicrogreens,usethemwhereveryouwanttheflavorofthematurevegetable—pepperyarugulaorcress,say,orsweet,earthybeetgreens—minusthebulk.

BEANSPROUTS:lime,soysauce,fishsauce,ginger,sesame,garlic,scallions,cucumber,cilantro,peanuts,shrimpDELICATESPROUTS:lemon,tomato,cucumber,radish,carrot,avocado,goatcheeseFIDDLEHEADS:butter,eggs,sharpcheese,lemon,vinaigrette,basil,tarragonMICROGREENS:eggs,lemon,goatcheese,bluecheese,almonds,fennelPEASHOOTS:bacon,prosciutto,fetacheese,wildmushrooms,salmon,ginger,radish,mint

THERECIPES

SesameSalmonwithShiitakeMushroomsandShoots

FiddleheadandPotatoHashwithEggs

KaleandLentilBowlwithSprouts

SautéedSnowPeasandPeaShoots

Avocado-and-SproutClubSandwiches

PadThai

SesameSalmonwithShiitakeMushroomsandShootsShootsmakearefreshing

changeofpacefromtenderherbssuchasparsley,mint,orbasil,andtheirtasteisjustasversatile.Here,freshshootsserve

asalast-minute(butessential)garnishforsteamedsalmonandshiitakes;black

sesameseedsarealsosprinkledontop.Theheatfromthefishhelpstorelease

justenoughoftheshoots’flavor.SERVES4

tablespoonplus1teaspoonfinelygratedpeeledfreshgingertablespoonplus1teaspoonfreshlemonjuicecupsthinlyslicedshiitakemushrooms(8ounces)boneless,skinlesssalmonfillets,preferablywildsockeye(each5ouncesand1inchthick)Coarsesalt

teaspoonstoastedsesameoil

teaspoonblacksesameseeds

ouncesmicrogreens,radishsprouts,orpeashoots1.Preheatovento400°F.Cutfour12-by-17-inchpiecesofparchment.Foldeachinhalfcrosswisetoformacrease,thenopenandplaceonworksurface.

2.Combinesoysauce,ginger,andlemonjuiceinasmallbowl.Addmushroomsandtosstocombine.Divideevenlyamongparchmentpieces,arrangingmixtureononesideofeachcrease.Layonesalmonfilletontopofeachpile.Seasonwithsaltanddrizzlewithsesameoil.Foldparchment

overingredients,thenmakeoverlappingpleatstoseal.

3.Bakeontwobakingsheets(twopacketspersheet),10to11minutesformediumrareor12minutesformedium.Carefullyopenthepackets.Topsalmonwithsesameseedsandshoots,andserve.

FiddleheadandPotatoHashwithEggsTheshootsoftheostrichfern(Matteucciastruthiopteris),fiddleheadsgettheirnamefromtheirshape:Thetightcoilsresemble

thescrollcarvingatthetopofaviolin.Theygrownearstreamsandriversinthe

easternhalfoftheUnitedStatesandCanada,andtheyareharvestedbyhand.Heretheyareblanched,thencookedinaskilletwithpotatoesandeggsforagreat

one-potmeal.SERVES4

poundssmallpotatoes,scrubbedandhalvedCoarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper

ouncesfiddleheadferns,cleanedandtrimmedtablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil

shallot,thinlysliced

largeeggs

1.Bringpotatoesandenoughwatertocovertoaboilinamediumpot;addsaltandcookuntilpotatoesareknife-tender,about8minutes.Addfiddleheadsandcookjustuntilbrightgreen,about1minutemore.Drainpotatoesandfiddleheads.

2.Heatoilinalargeskilletovermediumhigh.Cookshallotuntilgolden,

stirringfrequently,about2minutes.Addpotatoesandfiddleheads,andcook,stirringoccasionally,untilgoldenbrown,about4minutes.

3.Pushpotatoesandfiddleheadstooneside,thencrackeggsintopanontheotherside.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.Cook,undisturbed,4minutes.Removefromheat;letstanduntilwhitesaresetbutyolksarestillrunny,about4minutesmore.Serveimmediately.

KaleandLentilBowlwithSproutsAlfalfaandothersproutshavelongbeenusedtolendanydishinstanthealth-food

credibility.That’sstilltruetoday,asinthisof-the-momentmacrobowl.Thinlyslicedrawkaleandtenderlentilsmaybethefeatureplayers,butsprouts(weusesunflower)

arejustasnecessarytotheblendofflavorsandtextures.Acreamyavocado-garlicdressing,slicedsharpcheddar,andchoppedalmondsmakethisheartyandsubstantial.

SERVES4

Coarsesalt

cupsdePuylentils,pickedoverandrinsedripeavocado,halved,pitted,andpeeledteaspoonmincedgarlic

tablespoonsmincedshallot

cupfreshlemonjuice,pluscutlemonsforservingcupextra-virginoliveoil

bunchTuscan(orLacinato)kale(10ounces),stemstrimmed,leavesthinlyslicedouncessunflowerorradishsprouts

Slicesofextra-sharpcheddar,forserving

Choppedroastedsaltedalmonds,forserving

1.Inamediumsaucepanofsaltedboilingwater,cooklentilsuntiltenderbutnotmushy,about20minutes.Drain,rinseundercoldwatertostopthecooking,anddrainagain.

2.Pulsetogetheravocado,garlic,shallot,lemonjuice,oil,and1teaspoonsaltinablenderorfoodprocessoruntilsmooth.

3.Tosstwo-thirdsofdressingwithkaleinabowl.Dividedressedkaleamongfourservingbowls.Addlentils,sprouts,cheddar,andalmondstoeachbowl.Serve,withremainingdressingandlemonsontheside.

SautéedSnowPeasandPeaShootsTheedibleshootsandcurlytendrilsofpeaplantscanwithstandbriefcooking.Just30secondsisallittakesfortheshootstowiltandtakeontheflavorsofaccompanimentslikegarlicandred-pepperflakes.Heretheyarepairedwithsnowpeas,partofthe

categoryoflegumesknownasmange-touts—or“eatall.”

SERVES4

garlicclove,sliced

ouncessnowpeas,trimmed

ouncespeashoots

tablespoonwater

Coarsesalt

lemon,forserving

1.Heatoilinalargeskilletovermediumhigh.Addgarlicandred-pepperflakes,andcook,stirring,untilgarlicisgolden,about1minute.Addsnowpeasandcook,stirring,untilbrightgreenandstillcrisp,about1minute.

2.Addpeashootsinbatchesalongwiththewater.Cook,stirring,untiljustwilted,about30seconds.Seasonwithsalt,squeezelemonovertop,andserve.

Avocado-and-SproutClubSandwichesOneofthegoldenrulesofsandwich

makingistousecontrastingflavorsandtextures.ConsidertheclassicCaliforniavegetablesandwich,whichwouldn’tbe

thesamewithoutcrunchysprouts,creamyavocado,sharpradish,andtangygoat

cheese.SERVES4

Assortedvegetables,suchascucumbers,redonions,lettuce,carrots,andradishesripebutfirmavocados,halved,pitted,andpeeledsliceswhole-grainbread,toasted

ouncesalfalfa,clover,orgarbanzosproutsouncesfreshgoatcheese,roomtemperatureOliveoil,fordrizzling

1.Slicevegetablesintothinroundsormatchsticks,asdesired;tearlettuceandsliceavocados.Dividingevenly,layervegetableson8toastslices.Topwithsprouts.Spreadgoatcheeseonremaining4toastslices;thendrizzlewithoil,andsprinklewithsaltandpepper.

2.Stacksandwichessothateachhastwolayersofvegetablesandoneofcheese(cheesesidedown).Cutinhalfandserve.

PadThaiBeansprouts,whicharemadefromsproutingmungbeans,areatraditionalcomponentofmanyThaidishes,includingpadthai.Inthisversion,someofthesproutsarestir-friedwiththenoodlesjustuntilwilted,andtherestareusedasacrisp,coolgarnish

alongwithslicedradishes,cilantrosprigs,andlimewedges.

SERVES4

ouncesbonelessporkloin,cutinto¼-inchslices,theninto1½-inchpiecesteaspoonsugar

tablespoonstamarindconcentrate

tablespoonsThaifishsauce(nampla)tablespoonspeanutorsaffloweroil

or3garliccloves,minced

to3ouncespressedtofu,cutinto¼-inchslices,theninto1½-inchpieceslargeeggs,lightlybeaten

Coarsesalt

ouncesdriedrice-sticknoodles,soaked(seetipbelow)ouncesbeansprouts,rinsedanddrained(about4cups)scallions,trimmed,flattenedwiththesideofcleaver,andcutinto1½-inchpiecestablespoondriedshrimp,chopped

cupdry-roastedpeanuts,coarselychoppedThinlyslicedradishes,slicedThaichiles,cilantroleaves,andlimewedges,forserving1.Tossporkwithsugarinasmallbowltomix.Combinetamarindconcentrate,soysauce,andfishsauceinanothersmallbowl.

2.Heatalargewokorskilletovermedium-highuntilveryhot.Add2tablespoonsoilandswirltocoat.Cookgarlic,turning,untilgolden,about15seconds.Addpork,spreadingintoasinglelayer.Cookuntilgoldenonallsides,about1minutetotal.Addtofuandsear,pressingitagainstsidesofwok,10to20seconds.Transfertoaplate.

3.Seasoneggswithsaltandpourintowok.Cookuntilstartingtoset,about1minute.Usingaspatula,cutintolargepieces,andtransfertoplate.

4.Raiseheattohighandheatwokuntilsizzlinghot.Add1tablespoonoil

andswirltocoat.Cooknoodles,tossingfrequentlyandpressingagainstsidesofwoktosear,untilsoftened,2to3minutes.

5.Pushnoodlesupsidesofwokandaddremainingtablespoonoiltobottom,alongwith2½cupsbeansproutsandthescallions.Cook,tossing,untilwilted,1to2minutes.Adddriedshrimpandtossbrieflytoheatthrough.Addsoy-saucemixture.Cook,tossing,about30seconds.Incorporatenoodles.Addporkmixture,eggs,and½cuppeanuts;tossgentlytocombine.

6.Divideamongbowlsandtopwithremaining1½cupsbeansproutsand½cuppeanuts,andassortedgarnishes.

TIPRice-noodlesticksdon’thavetobecookedbeforeusing;justsoaktheminboilingwateruntiltender,accordingtopackageinstructions.

CABBAGES

CHICORIES

ENDIVES

LETTUCES

SPINACH

SPRINGANDWILDGREENS

LEAVES

The glory of leaves lies in their fresh green simplicity.Tossed in nothing but a dollop of dressing, their brightgrassy notes enliven any meal. But just because theydemand so little from a cook—a rinse, a tear, maybe asplash of vinaigrette—does not mean they give little inreturn. Whether mild or bitter, crisp or tender, spiky orroundasthumbprints,leafyvegetablesareessentialtoanyculinaryrepertoire.Learningtopreparethemisoneoftheeasiestwaystogrowasacook.

Leafy vegetables make your own vitality grow as well.After all, in nature it is a plant’s leaves that perform theprodigious task of harnessing sunlight and converting itinto the fuel that powers almost every living creature onthe planet. It’s a punishing job, and in order to fulfill it,leaves are loaded with phytochemicals that prevent andrepair the damage caused by basic cellular processes.Ourown bodies benefit enormously from the hard work thatleaves do—utilizing those protective phytochemicals tomend,cleanse,andrestoreourowncells.

Asnature’subiquitousandmostabundantsourceofnourishment,it’snowonder,then,thatleaves—intheformoflettuceandcabbage—arealsooneofhumankind’searliestfoods,cultivatedasearlyassome5,000yearsago.Maybeatossedsalad,farfrombeingasidekicktolunchordinner,isactually our first andmost fundamentalmeal. It’s sunlight transformedintowild,greendeliciousness.

THEBASICS

SEASONALITYLeafygreensprefercool,mildweather;intensesunlightandheattriggertheplants’impulseto“bolt,”sendingupaseed-bearingstalkthatturnstheleavestoughandbitter.Solookforlocallettucesandotherleafygreensinspring,earlysummer,andfall.Somehardierleaves,likespinach,chicories,andcabbages,turnsweetlateinfallafteracoldsnap,andcanformthebasisforsaladsthroughoutthewinter.Importedandgreenhouse-grownleavesareavailableyear-round.

BUYINGTender,delicateleavesdon’ttravelwell,soshopfarmers’marketsforthefreshestchoicesandtofindunusualforagedorheirloomspecialties.However,leavescanflourishingreenhouses,somanyareavailableyear-roundingrocerystores,includinghardyromaine,iceberg,endives,andcabbages.Whenselectinglettucesandspinach,lookfordark,firmleaves,whichgenerallycontainmorenutrients,andavoidanythatarelimporwilted,orstreakedwithbrownalongtheribs.Whenbuyingleavesbythehead—includingromaine,butterhead,andiceberglettuces,pluschicories,endives,andcabbages—inspectthebase;itshouldappearfreshlycut,paleanddryratherthandarkorslimy.Ifyoubuyprepackagedgreens(suchasspinachormesclun),gentlyshakethecontainertocheckthattherearenodeadleavesclingingtotheothersorthecontaineritself—they’realmostimpossibletocleanoffathome.Hardierleaves,suchasendive,radicchio,andcabbage,shouldbevividlycoloredorbrightlyhuedandtheheadsshouldfeelfirmratherthansquishyorspongy.Avoidendiveandradicchiowhoseouterleavesarebrownattheedges.

NOTABLEVARIETIESLettuces:GreenSaladBowlisanall-purposebutterylettuce;othersincludeOakleaf(redorgreenvarieties)andTango.LolloBiondoisapepperygreenloose-leaflettuce.Mâche,alsoknownascornsaladorlamb’slettuce,isalsotenderandmild.ColorfullettucesincludeMarvel(orRedBesson),RossadiTrento,RedGrenoble,RedRiding

Hood,RedSaladBowl,Loose-LeafGarnet,LolloRossa,RubensRomaine,andAmaranth(botanicallyagrainbuttheleavescanbeusedlikelettuces).Youcanalsofindredromaine,whichtendstobemoretenderthangreen,aswellasbabyromaineandotherlettuces,whichareallharvestedyoung.

Springandwildgreens:Theheartyleavesofstingingnettleturnalmostnuttywhencooked;chickweedhasamild,earthyflavor;lamb’squartersareslightlymoredelicateintasteandtexturethanspinach;purslanetastesofcitrus;dandelionsaremildlybitter;bothtypesofsorrel(woodandsheep’s)arerefreshinglysour.WatercressisthemostpopulartypeofcresssoldintheUnitedStates;othersincludepeppercress,curlycress,landcress,anduplandcress.Allhaveasimilarpepperytaste,thoughitvariesinintensity.

Spinach:Therearethreetypesofspinach:Savoyspinach,suchasRegimentandBloomsdale,hasthick,deeplycrinkled,darkgreenleaves;Flat-Leaf(orSmooth-Leaf)spinachhasmoretender,smoothleavesandincludessuchvarietiesasRedCardinalandRedKitten,usuallyharvestedforbabygreens;Semi-SavoyspinachisahybridofSavoyandFlat-Leafandhasatexturethat’sbetweenthetwo—varietiesincludeIndianSummerHybrid,Teton,andCatalina.Orach,alsoknownasmountainspinach,hasamildflavor;itisbotanicallyunrelatedtospinachbutcanbeusedinthesameway.

Chicoriesandendives:YoucanfindBelgianendiveincreamywhiteorred;full-heartendivehasamild,slightlybitterflavor.Ofallthevarietiesofradicchio,RadicchioRossoandChioggiaarethemostcommon;RadicchioCaesarisoneofmanyItalianvarieties,withvibrantredleavesandabitter,almosttartflavor.OthersincludeTreviso,whichlooksandtastessimilartoendive;TrevisoTardivo,amoreintenselyflavored,firmerversionofTreviso;Castelfranco,withspeckledwhiteleaves;andPuntarelle,theediblepartofanothertypeofItalianchicory(sometimesreferredtoas“chicoryhearts”)thathaslongpale-greenstalkswithspikydarkgreenleaves.Blanchedfriséeisspikierthanotherfrisées.

Cabbages:Savoyshaveamoredelicateflavorthanbasicgreencabbages.Theirbroadleavesworkwellaswrappersforgroundmeatandotherstuffings.Napacabbagesincludeseveralvarieties—somepaleandcompact,othersgreenandleafy;theymaybelabeledChinesecabbage,celerycabbage,wongbok,orPekingcabbage.Red(purple,really)cabbagesarecrunchyandmildlypeppery;lookforminiaturevarietiesatfarmers’markets.

STORINGRemoveanytwisttiesorrubberbands—they’llbruisetheleavesandspeeddeterioration—thenhandlegently.Leavesshouldbestoredlooselyinaplasticbagleftopenatthetoporpokedwithholestoallowforsomeaircirculation.Addingabarelydamppapertoweltothebagincreaseshumidityandcanprolongfreshness.Tenderlettucesshouldbeeatenwithintwodaysofbeingwashed,sorefrainfrompre-washingifyou’renotsurewhenyou’llgetaroundtoconsumingthem.Hardierleaves(frisée,escarole)canbewashedanddriedinaspinnerbeforebeingrefrigeratedforuptofivedays.Keptwhole,iceberglettucecanlastaweek,andcabbagescanremainamonthormore,looselywrappedinaplasticbagintherefrigerator.

PREPPINGThebestwaytowashleavesistofillasinkwithverycoldwater.Addtheleaves,swishgently,thenallowtositafewminutessodirtsinkstothebottom.Gentlyliftouttheleaves,andrepeattheprocess—onceifthey’refairlycleantostartwithanduptofourtimesifthey’requitesandyordirty.(Evenleaveslabeled“triple-washed”shouldbewashedbeforeeating.)Spinlettucedry,fillingthespinnernomorethanhalfwayatatime;checktoensurethatnomoistureremains,sincedressingswon’tclingtowetlettuce.Don’tcutortearuntiljustbeforeserving.Whichtechniqueisbetter?Large,delicateleaves,suchasbutterheadandBatavian,shouldbetornratherthancuttopreservecellstructureandlimitwilting.Firmleavescanbeslicedorchopped.Andsmall,tenderleavesarebestleftwhole,asareespeciallyshapelyones,suchasendive.

COOKINGAllleaves,eventhemildestlettuces,maybebraisedorsautéedoraddedtosoups.Some,includingspinach,dandelion,andromaine,canbejuicedorwhirredintosmoothies.Andlarge,pliableleavesmakeexcellentwrapsforavarietyoffillings,aswellasprettybedsforcomposedsalads.Butsurelythesimplicityoftheseleavesistheirgreatestgifttothecook—agreensaladcanbequicklytossedtogether.Takethetimetomasterafewversatiledressingsathome.Startbyrubbingapinchofsaltintotheleavestoinfusethemwithflavor.Thenusealightvinaigretteformildlettuces,athickerdressingforsturdierleaves—andalwaysadditjustbeforeserving.Pourthedressingaroundthesidesofthebowlratherthanrightontopoftheleaves,

andtossfromthebottomup.Orwhisktogetherthedressinginthebottomofyoursaladbowl,thenaddtheleavesandtosstocombine(buthereyouwanttomakesureyoudon’tmaketoomuchdressing).

HOWTOBRAISE(Forallleaves)Cutheads(suchasromaine,cabbage,radicchio,andendive)intoquarters,leavingwedgesintact.Cutortearothertypesofleaves(dandelion,watercress,spinach,andarugula)into2-inchpieces.Heatoliveoilinalargehigh-sidedskilletovermediumlow.Addwedges,cutsidesdown;addleavesinbatches,tossingandaddingmoreastheywilt.Cookuntilwedgesaregoldenunderneathorleavesarejustwilted,5to10minutes(5minutesforspinach).Addenoughliquid(brothorwater)tocover,andbringtoasimmer.Coverandcookuntilverytender,10to15minutes,dependingonvegetable(10minutesforspinach).Seasonwithsaltandpepper.

HOWTOSAUTÉ(Forallleaves)Cutheads(suchasromaine,cabbage,radicchio,andendive)intoquarters,leavingwedgesintact.Cutortearothertypesofleaves(dandelion,watercress,spinach,andarugula)into2-inchpieces.Heatbutteroroliveoilinalargeskilletovermedium;buttershouldstarttobrown.Addwedges,cutsidesdown;addleavesinbatches,tossingandaddingmoreastheywilt.Cook,stirringoccasionally,justuntiltender,3to5minutes.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.

HOWTOROAST(Forallleaves)Cutheads(suchasromaine,cabbage,radicchio,andendive)intoquarters,leavingwedgesintact.Cutortearothertypesofleaves(dandelion,watercress,spinach,andarugula)into2-inchpieces.Drizzlewitholiveoil,seasonwithsaltandpepper,andtosstocombine.Placewedges,cutsidesdown,onarimmedbakingsheet;scatterleavesinasinglelayer.Roastat400°F,turningonce,untilleavesarewiltedandslightlycharred,about15minutesforwedges,2to5minutesformoretenderpieces.ForItalianflavors,drizzlewithbalsamicvinegarandtopwithfinelygratedParmesan.

HOWTOGRILL(Forsturdylettuces:romaineandiceberg)Cutheadsintohalvesorquarters,leavingwedgesintact,andbrushcutsideswith

Cutheadsintohalvesorquarters,leavingwedgesintact,andbrushcutsideswitholiveoil.Grillonmediumhigh,cutsidesdown,untilcharredinspots,2to3minutes.Servewarm,drizzledwitholiveoilandaflavorfulvinegar,ortopwithcrumbledcroutonsandgratedParmesan.

FLAVORPAIRINGSThewordssaladandsalthavethesameLatinroot—noaccident,asithappens.Ajudiciousamountofsalthaslongbeenthekeytoasuccessfuldressing.That’sbecausesaltinterfereswithourabilitytotastebitterness,andallleavesareslightlybitter.(Eventhemostabrasiveoftoday’scultivatedleavesaremildcomparedwiththeirwildforebears,however.)Acidityintheformofvinegarorcitrusheightensthetasteoffreshnessinallplantfoods,andfat—whetheroliveoilorbaconrenderings—isthebestharmonizerandconveyerofsubtleflavorstothetongue.Inadditiontooil,acidity,saltandpepper,trythesepairingsinyoursalads:ARUGULA:almonds,goatcheese,grapes,pears,fennel,lemon,ParmesanCABBAGE:bacon,apples,caraway,juniper,redonions,ginger,garlic,soy,cashews,chiles,lime,radishes,carrotsCHICORIESANDENDIVES:bacon,asiago,bluecheese,walnuts,garlicMESCLUNLEAVES:goatcheese,nuts,mushrooms,driedfruitsMILD/SWEETLETTUCE(BIBB,BOSTON):shallots,citrus,chervil,tarragon,avocado,sourcream/yogurt(indressing)ROMAINE:anchovies,Parmesan,garlic,eggs,Dijonmustard,tomatoes,capersSPINACH:bacon,egg,Dijonmustard,shallots,lemon,dill,mushrooms,pinenutsWATERCRESS:buttermilk,bluecheese,beets,bellpeppers,ginger,lemon,shrimp

THERECIPES

WatercressandAsparagusPizza

EndiveandFennelSalad

ShreddedNapaCabbageSalad

PorkScaloppinewithRadicchio

SpinachandFontinaStrata

GardenGreenswithChoppedEggs

SpinachandGarlicSoup

EscaroleandBeanSoup

FriséeandRoastedPearSalad

BabyGreenswithPineNutsandPancetta

ArugulaandStoneFruitSaladwithBalsamicLambChops

FigandArugulaCrostini

CharredRomaineSalad

Free-FormLasagnawithEdibleWeeds

BraisedRedCabbage

CreamedGreenCabbage

FriedChickenwithPuntarelleSalad

MiniAsianMeatballsinLettuceCups

WatercressandAsparagusPizzaIt’scommonpracticebynowtotoppizzawithaheapofarugulawhenitcomesoutof

theoven,asasortofpizza-and-salad-in-one.Withasimilarspicy,pepperytaste,watercressworkswellonpizza,too.Here,we’vecombineduplandcresswithasparagus

andredoniontocreateaspringy,savorypiefordinner.

SERVES4

bunchasparagus,toughendstrimmedandspearsthinlyslicedonthediagonalsmallredonion,thinlysliced

cupplus1tablespoonextra-virginoliveoil

Pizzadough;use1ball;reserveotherforanotheruse)ouncesricottacheese

ouncesmozzarellacheese,shredded

cupsuplandcressorwatercress,toughstemsremoved

Red-pepperflakes

1.Preheatovento450°Fwithrackinlowerthird.Tosstogetherasparagus,onion,and1tablespoonoilinamediumbowl.Seasonwithsaltandblackpepper.

2.Brusharimmedbakingsheetwith2tablespoonsoil.Usingyourhands,gentlystretchdoughfromallsidestoapproximatesizeofbakingsheet.Placedoughonbakingsheet,stretchingandfittingittoedges.

3.Brushdoughwithremaining2tablespoonsoil,thenspreadwithricotta,leavinga½-inchborder.Topwithasparagusmixture;sprinklewithmozzarella.

4.Bakeuntilcrustisgoldenbrownandasparagusistender,about20minutes.Topwithcress,seasonwithsalt,andsprinklewithred-pepperflakes.Cutintopiecesandserve.

TIPWeespeciallylikethesharpflavorandheatofuplandcress;lookforitatfarmers’marketsandspecialtygrocers.

EndiveandFennelSaladBelgianendiveleavesarecrispandsharp—justrightforperkingupsaladsduringthe

wintermonths.Thetasteisoftendescribedasbittersweet,andthesamecouldbesaidforfennelandwalnuts,bothusedhere.Pomegranateseedsaddvibrantcolor.

SERVES8

fennelbulbs,halved,cored,andthinlysliced,plus¼cuplightlypackedfennelfrondspoundBelgianendive(preferablyred),trimmedandleavesseparatedcuppomegranateseeds

cupchoppedwalnuts,toasted

1.Scatterfennelandendiveonalargeplatter,andsprinklewithpomegranateseeds,walnuts,andfennelfronds.

2.Whisktogetheroilandlemonjuiceinasmallbowl,andseasonwithsaltandpepper.Drizzleoversaladandserve.

ShreddedNapaCabbageSaladWithitslong,slender,openhead,napacabbage—orChinesecabbage(napaisloosely

translatedfromChineseas“leaf”)—definitelystandsoutfrommorefamiliarcabbages.It’samilder-tasting,less-crunchyoptionformakingslawslikethisone.

SERVES6

cupwhite-winevinegar

tablespoonsDijonmustard,preferablywholegrain

tablespoonssugar

smallheadnapacabbage,coredandshredded

or5radishes,thinlyslicedandcutintomatchsticks

cupgoldenraisins

tablespoonthinlyslicedfreshchives

Whisktogethervinegar,mustard,andsugarinasmallbowl.Tosstogethercabbage,radishes,goldenraisins,andchivesinalargebowl.Drizzledressingoversalad,andseasonwithsaltandpepper.Tosstocombineandserve.

PorkScaloppinewithRadicchioHere,breadedcutletsareservedwithasaucemadebydeglazingthepanwithasplashofMarsala,oneofthesimplestandmostbelovedItalianpreparations.Thedishusually

featuressautéedmushrooms;wesubstituteroastedportobellosandaddroastedradicchio,whichtasteslessbitterthantherawvegetable.

SERVES4

poundbonelessporktenderloin,cutonthebiasinto⅓-inch-thickslicesheadradicchio,halved,cored,andcutinto¾-inch-thickslicespoundfreshportobellomushrooms,stemmedandcutinto¼-inch-thickslicestablespoonextra-virginoliveoil,plusmorefordrizzlingCoarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper

Wondra(instant)flourorall-purposeflour,fordredging

cupfreshsageleaves

cupMarsalawine

1.Preheatovento425°F.Placeporkbetweenlayersofwaxedpaperandpoundtoaneventhickness(about⅛inch).

2.Spreadradicchioonhalfofarimmedbakingsheetandmushroomsonotherhalf.Drizzlewithoil;seasonwithsaltandpepper.Roastuntiljuststartingtoturntender,10to12minutes.

3.Lightlydredgeporkinflour.Heatalargestraight-sidedskilletovermediumhigh.Addoil,swirltocoat,andcooksageuntiljustcrisp,about1minute.Removefromskillet.

4.Swirlbutterintoskilletandcookporkintwobatchesuntillightlybrownedaroundedges,1to2minutesoneachside.Returnallporktoskillet.Pourinwineandsimmeruntilreducedtoaglaze,stirringupbrownedbitsfrombottomofpan,about1minute.Addradicchioandmushrooms,coatwithsauce,andserve.

TIPYoucouldsubstituteveal,chicken,orturkeycutletsforthepork.

SpinachandFontinaStrataWhenbrunchisintheforecast,makestrata—thisoneisbuiltaroundthelong-runningcombinationofspinachandeggs(thinksoufflés,omelets,andquiches).Thespinachisseasonedwithnutmeg,anotherclassicflavorpartner,andispairedwithtwoterrific

cheeses:youngfontina,asuperbmeltingvariety,andParmesan.

SERVES8

poundsspinach,stemstrimmedandleavescoarselychoppedteaspoonfreshlygratednutmeg

Unsaltedbutter,roomtemperature,forbakingdish

poundchallahloaf,sliced½inchthick

ouncesyoungItalianfontinacheese,grated

largeeggs

cupswholemilk

1.Heatoilinalargesautépanovermediumuntilshimmering.Addonionandseasonwithsalt;cook,stirringoccasionally,untiltranslucent,about3minutes.Fillpanwithasmuchspinachaswillfit;cook,stirring,andaddingremainderahandfulatatimeasspaceallows.Whenallthespinachiswilted,seasonwithpepperandstirinnutmeg.Drainspinachinasieve.Whencoolenoughtohandle,squeezeexcessmoisturefromspinachbyhand.

2.Buttera3-quartbakingdish.Placeathirdofthebreadslicesinasinglelayerindish.Topwithhalfthespinachmixtureandathirdofthecheeses.Repeatlayeringwithathirdofthebread,remainingspinach

mixture,andathirdofthecheeses,thentopwithremainingbread(reserveremainingthirdofthecheeses).

3.Whisktogether6eggsand2cupsmilk,seasonwithsalt,andcarefullypouroverbread.Coverwithparchment,andgentlypressdownwithhandsuntileggmixturesoaksthroughtopofbread.Coverparchmentwithfoil,andrefrigerateatleast8hours(andupto2days).

4.Preheatovento350°F.Meanwhile,removestratafromrefrigerator,uncover,andletstand30minutes.Whisktogetherremaining2eggsand⅔cupmilk,andpouroverstrata,gentlypressingbetweenlayersofbreadwithaspoonorspatulatoensurethateggmixtureseepstobottom.Sprinklewithremainingcheeses.

5.Bakeuntilpuffedandgoldenbrowninspots,45to50minutes.Letcool15minutesbeforeserving.

TIPYoungfontinahasasoftertexturethanagedvarietiesandisoftenlabeledas“semi-firm”or“tablecheese”;youcanfinditatcheeseshopsandspecialtygrocers.Regularfontinawillalsoworkhere.

GardenGreenswithChoppedEggsBabyspinachismuchmoretenderandmildtastingthanmaturevarieties,andneeds

onlyaquickrinse(andnostemming)beforeserving.Whileyoucanfinditinclamshellpackages,seekoutbabyspinachinbunchesforsuperiorflavorandfreshness.

SERVES4

ouncesharicotsverts,trimmed

ouncessnappeas,trimmed

anchovyfillets,minced

tablespoonssourcream

cupsbabyspinach

largeeggs,hard-cooked

cupfreshtarragonleaves

cupfreshflat-leafparsleyleaves

1.Prepareanice-waterbath.Workinginbatches,blanchharicotsvertsinapotofgenerouslysaltedboilingwateruntilbrightgreenandcrisp-tender,about2minutes.Transfertoicebathandletcool;remove.Returnwaterinpottoaboil,andblanchsnappeas,inbatches,about1minute.Transfertoicebathuntilcool;removesnappeas,andcutinhalf.

2.Whisktogetheranchovies,lemonjuice,andsourcreaminabowl.Slowlyaddoilinasteadystream,whiskinguntilcombined.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.

3.Dividespinach,haricotsverts,andsnappeasamongfourplates,andtopeachwithchoppedeggsandherbs.Drizzlewithdressing,seasonwithsaltandpepper,andserve.

SpinachandGarlicSoupInthischilledspringsoup,spinachispairedwithtwoformsofgarlic:freshgarlicis

roastedtobringoutthenaturalsugars;andgreengarlic,whichhasnobulb,isbrieflysautéed,topreserveitsdelicateflavor.

SERVES6

cupsplainyogurt

headsroastedgarlic(seeHowtoRoast)cupextra-virginoliveoil,plusmorefordrizzling

to10greengarlicstems,sliced¼inchthick

cupschickenbroth

poundbabyspinach

cupfreshbasilleaves,plussmallleavesforgarnish

tablespoonplus1teaspoonfreshlemonjuice

Coarsesalt

1.Stirtogether¼cupyogurtand2teaspoonsroastedgarlicinabowl;coverandrefrigerateupto1day.

2.Heat¼cupoilinasaucepanovermediumhigh.Cookgreengarlicuntiltranslucent,stirringfrequently,about3minutes.Addbrothandbringtoaboil.Reduceheatandsimmer5minutes;letcool.

3.Transferbrothmixturetoablender.Addremaining1¾cupsyogurtandhalfthespinach,andpuréeuntilsmooth.Addremainingspinach,thebasil,and2tablespoonsroastedgarlic(reserveremainderforanotheruse),andpurée.Addlemonjuice,andseasonwithsalt.Refrigerate,covered,atleast2hours(andupto1day).Toserve,topwithroasted-garlicyogurtandmorebasil.

EscaroleandBeanSoupWhenyouhaveaheadofescarole(andahalfhourtospare),makeaquickbeans-and-greenssoup.Thismemberofthechicoryfamilyhasapleasantbitternessandsturdy

leavesthatbecometenderafteronlyabriefsimmer.Weincludetwotypesoflegumes—chickpeasandkidneybeans—forcontrastingtastesandtexturesinthisheartyone-pot

SERVES4

garliccloves,smashed

Pinchofred-pepperflakes,plusmoreforserving

smallheadescarole,leavestorninto2-inchpieces(about12cups)Coarsesalt

can(15.5ounces)redkidneybeans,rinsedanddrainedcan(15.5ounces)chickpeas,rinsedanddrained

cupswater

Toastedbreadandlemonwedges,forserving

1.Heatalargesaucepanovermedium;addoilandswirltocoat.Addgarlicandred-pepperflakes;cook,stirring,untilfragrant,about1minute.Addescarole,tosstocoat,andseasonwithsalt.Cookuntilescaroleisjustwilted,stirringfrequently,about2minutes.

2.Addkidneybeans,chickpeas,broth,andthewater.Bringtoasimmer.Cookuntilheatedthrough,stirringoccasionally,about5minutes.Seasonwithsalt;removegarlic.Topwithred-pepperflakes.Serveimmediately,withlemonwedgesandtoastedbread.

FriséeandRoastedPearSaladSERVES8

tablespoonshoney

Boscpears,cored,eachcutintoeighths(unpeeled)

shallots,halvedlengthwise

teaspoonDijonmustard

cupwater

largeheadfrisée,trimmed(about8ounces)

headsendive,trimmed

¾ cupwalnuthalves,toasted

1.Preheatovento400°F.Whisktogetherhoney,3tablespoonsvinegar,and2tablespoonsoil;seasonwithsaltandpepper.Arrangepearsandshallotsinasinglelayerinaroastingpan;tosswithhoneymixturetocoat.Roast20minutes,turningpearsandshallotshalfwaythrough.Continueroastinguntilshallotsareeasilypiercedwiththetipofaparingknife,about10minutesmore.

2.Meanwhile,whisktogetherremaining2tablespoonsvinegarand3tablespoonsoilwiththemustardinaheatproofbowl;seasonwithsaltandpepper.

3.Removeroastedpearsandshallotsfromroastingpanandplacepanoverhighheat;addthewater,andscrapeupanybrownedbitswithawoodenspoon.Letliquidreducebyhalf,thenwhiskmixtureintovinaigrette.

4.Tossfriséeandendivewithvinaigrette.Transfertoaplatter,topwithpears,shallots,andwalnuts,andserve.

BabyGreenswithPineNutsandPancettaYoucanoftenfindamixofso-calledAsiangreenssoldatsupermarkets,butit’sfuntoassembleyourown;babymizuna,babytatsoi,andchrysanthemumgreensareamong

themostwidelyavailablevarieties.

SERVES4

ouncesassorteddelicatesaladgreens,suchasbabytatsoi,babymizuna,andchrysanthemumgreens(about8cups)verythinslicespancetta

shallots,thinlyslicedcrosswise

tablespoonspinenuts

1.Combinegreensinaservingbowl.Heataskilletovermedium;cookpancetta,turningonce,untilcrisp,2to4minutesperside.Transferwithtongstopapertowels;drain.

2.Pouroffhalfofthefatfromskillet.Addoiltoskillet;placeovermedium-lowheat.Whenfatishotbutnotsmoking,addshallotsandpinenuts.Cook,stirring,untilpinenutsaregoldenbrown,about2minutes.Withaslottedspoon,transferpinenutsandshallotstoservingbowl.

3.Removeskilletfromheat.Immediatelyaddvinegar;scrapeupbrownedbitswithawoodenspoon.Drizzlewarmdressingoversalad.Seasonwithsaltandpepper,andtosstocombine.Topwithpancettaandserve.

ArugulaandStoneFruitSaladwithBalsamicLambChopsThepeppery,

mustardytasteofarugulacomplementssomanyotherflavors,includingtheearthylambandsweetfruitsinthissummermaincourse(inspiredbyMoroccan

tagines).Andarugulahasaparticularaffinityformint(andotherfreshherbs,

likebasilorcilantro).Amixofagedbalsamicvinegarandoliveoildoesdouble

dutyasamarinadeforthechopsandadressingforthesalad.

SERVES4

tablespoonspepitas(hulledpumpkinseeds)

cupbalsamicvinegar,preferablyaged

Pinchofsugar

bone-inriblambchops,frenched(eachabout4ouncesand1inchthick)Coarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper

buncharugula(about8ounces),trimmed

plumsornectarines,oracombination,pittedandslicedintowedgescuppackedfreshmintleaves

1.Heatamediumskilletovermediumhigh.Toastpepitas,shakingpanfrequently,untildarkenedandfragrant,3to5minutes.

2.Whisktogethervinegar,oil,andsugarinabowl.Reserve¼cupofthemixture;transferremainingmarinadetoasealableplasticbag.Seasonlambwithsaltandpepperandaddtothebag,turningtocoat.Letmarinateinrefrigerator,turningoccasionally,atleast1hourandupto4hours.

3.Letchopsstandatroomtemperature30minutes.Heatalargeskilletovermedium.Workinginbatches,removelambfrommarinade,lettingexcessdripoff,andaddtopan.Cook,flippingonce,untilaninstant-readthermometerinsertedinthickestpart(avoidingbone)registers125°F,about8minutes.Transfertoaplateandletstand10minutes.

4.Whiskreservedvinegarmixturetocombine.Dividearugula,fruit,pepitas,andmintamongfourplates.Seasonwithsaltandpepper;drizzlewithreservedvinegarmixture.Topwithlamb,dividingevenly;serveimmediately.

FigandArugulaCrostiniTheseappetizersshowhowevenalittlebitterarugulacangoalongwayinbalancing

thesweetnessofotheringredients(inthiscase,caramelizedonionsandfreshfigs).SharpParmigiano-Reggiano,arugula’sfrequentpartner,isshavedoverthetop.

SERVES6

largeonions,thinlysliced

tablespoonsugar

teaspooncayennepepper

ouncesfreshfigs,halvedlengthwise

slicesbaguette,toasted

cupsbabyarugula

ounceParmigiano-Reggianocheese,shaved

1.Preheatovento400°F.Heatoilinalargeskilletoverlow.Addonions,seasonwithsalt,andcook,stirringoccasionally,untilsoftandgolden,45minutes.Raiseheattomediumlowandcookuntillightlybrownedandcaramelized,about10minutes.Removefromheat;letcoolslightly.

2.Combinesugar,cayenne,andagenerouspinchofsaltinabowl.Placefigs,cutsideup,onarimmedbakingsheet.Sprinklewithsugarmixture.Roastuntiltenderandcaramelized,about10minutes.

3.Dividingevenly,topeachsliceofbreadwithsomecaramelizedonions(reserveextraforanotheruse),figs,arugula,andcheese.Serveimmediately.

CharredRomaineSaladSturdyromaineleavesstandupbeautifullytotheheatofthegrill.Thesaladisbestwhentheromaineishotoffthegrill,toppedwithradishes,shallot,andbuttermilk

dressing.

SERVES4

bunchradishes,quartered

cupwater

cupplus2tablespoonsred-winevinegar

tablespoonssugar

cupbuttermilk

cupplus2tablespoonssourcream

largeheadromainelettuce,halvedlengthwise

Saffloweroil,forbrushing

1.Placeradishesandshallotinabowl.Bringthewater,½cupvinegar,thesugar,and2teaspoonssalttoaboilinasmallsaucepan.Pouroverradishesandshallot;refrigerate.

2.Meanwhile,whisktogetherbuttermilk,sourcream,andremaining2tablespoonsvinegarinabowl.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.

3.Heatgrill(orgrillpan)tomediumhigh.Brushromainehalveswithoil,andseasonwithsaltandpepper.Grilluntilcharredbutstillcrisp,about4minutesperside.Drizzledressingoverromaine.Drainradish-shallotmixture,scatteroverromaine,andserve.

Free-FormLasagnawithEdibleWeedsOncethoughtofaspeskyintruders,edibleweeds—sorrel,dandelion,lamb’squarters,chickweed,purslane,andstingingnettle,amongothers—boastadiversityofflavors,

fromsweettosavory,tarttonutty,andspicytobitter.Usejustoneoranycombinationinthislasagna.Theweedsaresautéedwithgarlicandcombinedwithgoldenraisins

andlemonjuice,thenlayeredwithzestyricottaandpastasheets.

SERVES4

tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil,plusmorefordrizzlingcupfreshricottacheese

teaspoonfinelygratedlemonzest,plus1to2tablespoonsfreshlemonjuicesquarefreshlasagnanoodles(eachabout5inches)

ouncesedibleweeds,suchassorrelandlamb’squarters,thickstemsremoved,largeleavescoarselychoppedcupgoldenraisins

1.Bringalargepotofwatertoaboil;addagenerousamountofsaltand1tablespoonoil.Inabowl,stirtogetherricottaandlemonzest;seasonwithsaltandpepper.Workingwithafewatatime,cooklasagnanoodlesuntilaldente,accordingtopackageinstructions.Usingtongs,transfertoabakingsheet,layingeachsquareflat.Coverwithplasticwrap.

2.Inemptypot,heatremaining1tablespoonoilovermediumhigh.Addgarlicandcook,stirringfrequently,untiltender,1to2minutes.Addweeds;seasonwithsaltandpepper.Cook,tossing,untiltender,6to8minutes.Stirinraisinsandlemonjuice;seasonwithsaltandpepper.

3.Oneachoffourservingplates,toponelasagnanoodlewithabout¼cupweedmixtureand2tablespoonsricottamixture.Topwithanothernoodle,¼cupweeds,and2tablespoonsricotta.Drizzlewithoilandserveimmediately.

TIPFreshlasagnanoodlescanbefoundatspecialtyshopsandItalianmarkets;youcanalsoboildriedsheetsasdirectedonthepackage,thendrainandcutintosquares.

BraisedRedCabbageThecompoundthatgivesred(andpurple)cabbageitsbeautifulcolorwillalsoturnit

bluewhenit’scookedwithanalkalinesubstance,suchaschickenbroth,sodon’tomitthevinegaroranotheracid(likelemonjuice);theacidcounterbalancesthealkaline.

SERVES8

tablespoonsoliveoil

mediumonion,thinlysliced

tablespoonsbrownsugar

cupapplecidervinegar

cupspureapplecider

cupchickenbroth

cinnamonstick

driedbayleaf

smallheadredcabbage,cutinto8wedges,coreintact1.Preheatovento350°F.Heatoilinalarge,wide,heavyovenproofpotovermedium.Addonionandcook,stirringoccasionally,untiledgesstarttocaramelize,10to12minutes.Addsugarandcook,stirring,1minutemore.Addvinegarandbringtoaboil,scrapingupbrownedbitswithawoodenspoon.Stirincider,broth,cinnamon,andbayleaf;seasonwithsaltandpepper.Addcabbage,arranginginasinglelayer.Bringtoaboil.Cover;transfertoovenandbraiseuntilcabbageistender,40to45minutes.

2.Transfercabbagetoaservingplatterusingaslottedspoon;discardcinnamonstickandbayleaf.Bringremainingliquidinsaucepantoasimmerovermedium-highheat.Cookuntilreducedbyhalf,about10minutes.(Youwillhaveabout1cupsauce.)Spoonsauceovercabbage,andserve.

CreamedGreenCabbageCabbageisdeliciouswhendrenchedinacreamybéchamelsauce,blanketedwithgrated

cheese,andbaked.Serveitwithroastporkorsausages,likekielbasaorbratwurst.

SERVES6

smallheadgreencabbage(about2½pounds),coredandshredded(10cups)tablespoonsunsaltedbutter

cupall-purposeflour

cupswholemilk,warmed

cupplus1tablespoonfinelygratedPecorinoRomanocheesetablespoonfinelygratedlemonzest(from2lemons)

1.Preheatovento350°F.Bring1inchofwatertoaboilinapot;addsalt.Addcabbageandcookuntiltender,about5minutes.Drainandletcoolslightly.Squeezeoutexcesswaterusingacleankitchentowel.

2.Meltbutterinamediumsaucepanovermediumheat.Stirinflour,andcookuntilbubblingbutnotbrowning,1to2minutes.Slowlywhiskinmilk.Cook,stirring,untilsauceisthickenoughtocoatthebackofawoodenspoon,about5minutes.Removefromheat;add¼cupcheeseandthelemonzest.Immediatelyfoldcabbageintosauce.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.

3.Spoonmixtureintoashallowcasseroledish.Sprinklewithremainingtablespooncheese.Bakeuntilbubbling,30to35minutes.Letstand5minutesbeforeserving.

FriedChickenwithPuntarelleSaladHere’sSouthernfriedchickenandgreens,Italianstyle:Buttermilk-batteredstripsof

meataretoppedwithasalad(àlaMilanese)ofbitterleavesandbasil.Ifyoucanfindaheadofpuntarelle,achicorythat’saspecialtyofRome,byallmeansuseithere.First,

peelbackandtrimtheleaves,andreservethecelery-likeheartforanotheruse.Otherwise,useanybitterleavesyoulike.

SERVES6

FORTHESALAD

cupsbitterleaves,suchaspuntarelle,dandeliongreens,arugula,escarole,orchicory,tornorslicediflargecuptornfreshbasilleaves

scallions(whiteandpale-greenpartsonly),thinlyslicedgarliccloves

Coarsesalt

oil-packedanchovyfillets

cupfreshlemonjuice

cupplus2tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil

FORTHECHICKEN

cupsbuttermilk

largeeggs

teaspoonsbakingpowder

teaspoonbakingsoda

Saffloweroil,forfrying(about8cups)

skinless,bonelesschickenbreasthalves(1½pounds),cutinto1-by-3-inchstripsFlakyseasalt,suchasMaldon,forsprinkling

Lemonwedges,forserving

1.Makethesalad:Tosstogethergreens,basil,andscallionsinalarge

bowl.Mashgarlicandapinchofcoarsesaltintoapasteusingamortarandpestleorusingtheflatsideofachef’sknife.Addanchoviesandmash.Transfermixturetoasmallbowl,andstirinlemonjuice.Graduallyaddoil,whiskingconstantly,untilemulsified.

2.Makethechicken:Combinebuttermilk,eggs,bakingpowder,andbakingsodainabowl.Whiskflourwithcoarsesaltandpepperinanotherbowl.

3.Inamediumpot,heatafewinchesofoilovermediumuntiloilreaches380°Fonadeep-frythermometer.Dipeachpieceofchickenintobuttermilkmixturetocoat,shakingoffexcess,thendredgeinflourmixture,pattingitontochickenasyouworktocoatcompletely.

4.Workinginbatches,carefullyfrychickenuntildeepgoldenbrown,about3minutes.Usetongstotransfertopaper-towel-linedplatestodrain.Sprinklewithseasalt.

5.Tosssaladwithhalfthedressinginalargebowl.Seasonwithcoarsesaltandpepper.Dividechickenstripsamongsixplates,andtopeachwithsalad.Servewithlemonwedgesandremainingdressingontheside.

MiniAsianMeatballsinLettuceCupsLettuceisanentirelyauthenticwrapperforAsianmeatballs,anditdoesn’tdetractfromtheflavoringsthewaythatbreadcan.Soft,tenderlettuceslikeBibbandBostonwork

best,butgreenandredleaflettucesarefinehere,too.Don’tskiptheaccompanyinglimemayonnaise;it’ssoeasytomix,andreallycompletesthedish,asdotheothergarnishes.

SERVES4

cupchoppedgarlic(from10to12cloves)

tablespoonschoppedpeeledfreshginger(froma3-inchpiece)cupchoppedscallions(from2to3scallions)

poundgroundbeef,turkey,orpork,oracombination

teaspoonfishsauce,suchasnamplaornuocmam

teaspooncoarsesalt

tablespoontoastedsesameoil

cupmayonnaise

tablespoonfreshlimejuice,pluslimewedges,forservingBibblettuceleaves,forserving

Assortedgarnishes,suchascilantro,slicedThaichiles,choppedroastedpeanuts,andhotsaucesuchasSriracha1.Finelychoptogethergarlic,ginger,andscallions.Inabowl,gentlycombinegarlicmixturewithgroundbeef,fishsauce,andsalt.Formmixtureinto1-inchmeatballs.

2.Heatsesameoilinalargeskilletoverhigh.Workinginbatches,frymeatballsuntilbrownedandcookedthrough,about5minutesperbatch.

3.Inasmallbowl,mixmayonnaiseandlimejuice.Servemeatballsinlettucecups,withlimemayonnaise,assortedgarnishes,andlimewedges.

ARTICHOKES

BROCCOLI

BRUSSELSSPROUTS

CAULIFLOWER

CHIVEBLOSSOMS

EDIBLEFLOWERS

SQUASHBLOSSOMS

FLOWERS&BUDS

Intheflowergarden,abudspeaksofbeauty’spromise,and a blossom of its bright fulfillment. But in thevegetable patch, where deliciousness trumpsgorgeousness, flowers and buds are far less prized, forthey rarely embody a plant’s crowning flavors ornutrients.

Not so in the case of artichokes, broccoli, andcauliflower—allvegetables thatareactuallybuds.Theartichoke, a relative of the thistle, consists of tightlyfurledpetals(referredto,erroneously,asleaves),whichcradle a layer of tender flesh near its base; that bud’sheart and stem are also delectable when harvestedyoung. Cauliflower and broccoli are dense clusters oftinybudsproliferatingwithina looseheadofcabbage-like leaves.Brussels sprouts,meanwhile, arenotactualsprouts,butinsteadarebudlikeheadsthatsproutalongathickstem.

Flowers eaten in full bloom tend tobequite fragile—notsurprising, for theyare seldomdesignedto supportweightgreater than that of ahoneybee—and theyaredelicate in flavor as well. Chive blossoms taste like awhisper of onion. Nasturtiums have a mildly spicy,velvetyquality.Amongedible flowers,onlyvoluptuous squashblossomsare substantial enough tobe cookedandeatenas truevegetables ratherthanasagarnish.

Innature,budsaretransitoryandflowersarefleeting,whichmakesthestop-time quality of the edible varieties all the more wonderful—a

promisecometodeliciousfruition.

THEBASICS

SEASONALITYBroccoli,cauliflower,andbrusselssproutsaremembersofthecrucifer(cabbage)family,allofwhichlikecoolweather.Althoughthesevegetablesareavailablethroughoutmuchoftheyear,connoisseurssweartheytastebestafteracoldsnapinfall.Lookforthematfarmers’marketsoncesweaterseasonisunderway.Artichokesalsolikecoolweather,andtheirpeakseasonsareinspringandearlyfall.Squashblossomsopenthroughoutearlyandmidsummer—asingleplantwillkeepproducingthemoverthecourseofseveralweeks.Asforotherflowers,theymaybloominspring,summer,orearlyfall,dependingonvariety.

BUYINGLookforartichokes,broccoli,andcauliflowerthataredenseandfirm;theirflavorsstarttodeterioratethemomentthebudsburstopenandbegintoblossom.Babyartichokesareactuallybudsthatsproutloweronthestalkthanfull-sizeones;reducedsunexposurekeepsthemfromdevelopingtheroughchokesandsharpbarbsthatcanmakepreppingfull-sizeonesarduous.Broccoliandbrusselssproutsshouldbeabluishgreen,thelatterwithacoatingofnaturalwax.Thebestwaytobuybrusselssproutsiswhentheyarestillonthestalk,availableatfarmer’smarkets(andsomesupermarkets)duringthespringandfall.Withflowerblossoms,themostimportantcriterionmaybeoneyoucan’tsee:Theymustbegrownwithoutthepesticidesthatsaturatemostcommercialflowers.Sobuythematgreenmarkets,orgrowthemyourself.

NOTABLEVARIETIESArtichokes:Babypurpleartichokesaremilderandslightlysweeterthantheregularvariety.ViolettadiChioggiaisasmallervarietyandmoreovalshapedthanglobeartichokes,withmottledpurpleleavesandapronouncedflavor.Benicarló,ahighlyprizedvarietyfromValencia,Spain,hasafull,meatyflavor.

Broccoli:Purplebroccolihasaheadbeadedwithindigofloretsthatturnashadeofolivegreenwhencooked;theflavorismilderthangreenbroccoli.Romanescobroccoli,alsoknownascavolobroccoloRomanesco,orsimplycavoloRomano,hastight,brightgreenspiralingheads;thetasteismellowandslightlynutty.Broccoflower,abroccoli-cauliflowerhybrid,lookslikealime-greencauliflowerandtastesalittlelikebothitsparents.

BroccoliniandChinesebroccoliarecloserelativesofbroccoli,asallaremembersofthecabbagefamily(unlikebroccolirabe,whichisnotrelatedtobroccoliatall;seeGreensformoreinformation).BroccoliniisactuallyahybridofbroccoliandChinesebroccoli,withtightflorets,longstalks,andtenderleaves(alledible);theflavorismilderandsweeterthanregularbroccoli.Chinesebroccoli,ontheotherhand,isslightlybitterandhasthickerstemsandflatter,sturdierleavesthanbroccolini.

Brusselssprouts:ThemostcommontypesofsproutsareDiabloandDimitri,twohybridsthatbearthehallmarkgreencolorandmildtaste.It’sworthlookingformorerobust-flavoredheirloomvarieties,suchasLongIsland,Catskill,andgorgeous,purplish-redRubine.

Cauliflower:Stunningheirloomvarietiesofcauliflowerinarangeofcolorsarenowbeingcultivated.Orangecauliflower,sometimesreferredtoascheddarcauliflower,hasthesametasteandtextureaswhite,whilepurplecauliflowerismilder,sweeter,andnuttier.Miniaturecauliflowers(oftencalledbabycauliflower)thesizeoffistscanbepreparedthesamewayasthefull-sizevariety.

Edibleflowers:Therearedozensofflowerblossomsthatcanbeusedforculinarypurposes:Calendulaormarigoldsrangefromspicytobitter,tangytopeppery,withagolden-orangehuethatmakesthemagoodsubstituteforsaffron;whiteandredcloverblossomsaresweetandtasteoflicorice;dandelionsaresweetestwhenpickedyoung,andthebudsaretastierthantheflowers;hibiscushasacitrusyflavor;sweetwoodruffissweetandgrassy;violetsaresweetandfragrant.Theflowersofmostherbsandvegetablesarealsogenerallyedible:weespeciallylikefloweringbasil,borage,chives,dill,lavender,lemonverbena,mint,andthyme,aswellastheflowersfromarugula,okra,radish,andscarletrunnerbeans.

STORINGBroccoli,cauliflower,brusselssprouts,andartichokesshouldallbekeptintherefrigerator,looselywrappedinaplasticbag;dependingonhowfreshtheyaretobeginwith,theywillkeepanywherefromacoupleofdaystoaweek.Ifyoucan’tuse

beginwith,theywillkeepanywherefromacoupleofdaystoaweek.Ifyoucan’tusefreshblossomsrightaway,storethemlikeanyflowers:withtheirstemsinavaseofcoolwater,intherefrigerator.

PREPPINGToreadybabyartichokes,simplyremovethetougherouterleavesandtrimthestems.Sliceverythinlyonamandolinetoeatraw.Full-sizeartichokestakemoreworktoprepareforcooking:Stripawaythetoughouterleaves,thencutroughly½inchoffthetop.Usingkitchenscissors,trimawaythetipsofremainingleavestoremovethorns.Atthispointtheartichokeisreadyforboiling;buttoroastorsauté,sliceitlengthwiseintoquartersorwedges,andusethetipofaparingknifetocutoutthefuzzy,pinkishchoke.Asyouwork,placepreppedartichokesinabowlofwateracidulatedwithlemonjuice(3tablespoonsperquartofwater)orwhitevinegar(2tablespoonsperquart);cutsurfacesquicklydarkenwhenexposedtoair.

Youcanbreakaheadofcauliflowerorbroccoliintofloretswithyourbarehands,oruseaknifetochopitdowntotherightsizeforarecipe,ortoeatraw.Tomakecauliflowerorbroccoli“steaks,”simplytrimoneendfromstalks,thenslicedownverticallythroughtheheadsintothickslabs(anywherefromahalfinchtoaninch).Ifyouplantoeatthestalks,pareawaythetoughouterlayerwithapeelerorknife;thencontinuetoshavethemwiththepeeler,orslicethinlyonthediagonal,touserawinsaladsandslaws.Handlecauliflowerwithcare;itbruiseseasily.Usethepotato-eyescooponavegetablepeelertocutoutanyblackspots.Blossomsneednothingbutagentlerinse.

Brusselssproutsonlyrequirepullingofftheouterleaves,whichareoftenbruisedorblemished,andtrimmingtheshortstems.Ifyouplantoeatbrusselssproutsraw,simplyseparatethetender,innerleavesorsliceverythinly.Otherwise,youcanhalveorquarterlargersproutsbeforecookingsotheyareofamoreuniformsize.

COOKINGPeoplewhoadorebroccoli,cauliflower,andbrusselssproutsoftenquestionthosewhodon’t,andviceversa:Howcanthey…?Blamegenerationsofcookswhoboiledthesevegetables,thenservedthemasis,oftenatroomtemperature.That’snottosaythatsteamedandblanchedversionscan’tbewonderful—theyare,whencombinedwithotherflavorfulingredientsinstir-fries,salads,andthelike,ordippedinsauces.Butforservingaloneasasidedish,thesevegetablesgenerallytastebetterwhenroasted

orsautéed.Babyartichokesarewonderfulleftwhole(orhalved,asdesired)andfriedorroasted.Thelargeonesarebeststeamedorboiled,sothattheycanbetakenapart,petalbypetal,wheneaten.Fragileblossomsshouldbeaddedtodishesatthelastminutetominimizewilting.Squashblossomscanbeslicedorchopped,andaddedtorecipeswhereyouusezucchini—orthebeautifulbell-shapedflowerscanbestuffedandfriedwhole.

HOWTOSTEAM(Forartichokes,broccoli,brusselssprouts,cauliflower)TrimartichokesasdescribedinPrepping(leavebabyartichokeswholeorcutinhalf).Trimstalksfrombroccoliandcauliflower,andcutheadsintolargeflorets.Trimbrusselssproutsandleavewholeorhalve.Placeinasteamerbasketsetinapotwith2inchesofwater.Bringtoaboil;coverandsteamuntiljusttenderandbroccoliandbrusselssproutsarebrightgreen,6to8minutes.Tosswithbutteroroliveoil;seasonwithsaltandpepper.

HOWTOSAUTÉ(Forartichokes,broccoli,brusselssprouts,cauliflower)TrimartichokesasdescribedinPrepping;cutintoquarters(leavebabyartichokeswholeorcutinhalf).Trimothervegetables,peelingouterlayerofanystalks.Separatebroccoliandcauliflowerintosmallflorets,orcutdiagonallyinto1-inchslicesandcutstalksintosame-sizepieces.Halveorquartersprouts.Heatoliveoilorbutterinalargeskilletovermediumhigh.Addvegetables,seasonwithsaltandpepper,andcook,stirringoccasionally,untilgoldenbrownandcaramelized,8to10minutes.Addalittlewater(about⅓cupfor2poundsofvegetables)andcook,stirringupbrownedbitsfrombottomofpan,untilevaporated,about2minutes.Sprinklewithlemonjuice.

HOWTOROAST(Forbabyartichokes,broccoli,brusselssprouts,cauliflower)Trimbabyartichokes,andleavewholeorcutinhalf.Trim1inchfromstalksofbroccoliandcauliflowerandpeelouterlayerofstalk.Cutdiagonallyinto1-inch-thickslices.Separatefloretsintobite-sizepieces.Trimbrusselssproutsandhalveorquarter.Drizzlewitholiveoil,seasonwithsaltandpepper,andtosstocombine.Spreadevenlyonarimmedbakingsheet.Roastina425°Fovenuntiltenderandbrowned,tossingonceortwice,15to20minutes.

HOWTOBRAISE

HOWTOBRAISE(Forartichokes,broccoli,brusselssprouts,cauliflower)TrimartichokesasdescribedinPrepping;halvelengthwise(leavebabyartichokeswhole).Trimbroccoliandcauliflowerstemsandseparateheadsintolargeflorets.Trimbrusselssprouts.Heatoliveoilorbutterinalargeskilletovermediumhigh.Addvegetablesandenoughliquid(chickenorvegetablebroth,orwater)tocover.Bringtoaboil,reduceheat,andcover.Simmeruntilfork-tender,8to10minutes(20minutesforfull-sizeartichokes).Seasonwithsaltandpepperandservewithlemonwedges.

HOWTOGRILL(Forartichokes,broccoli,cauliflower)Trimfull-sizeartichokesasdescribedinPrepping.Steamfor20minutes,thenhalveandscoopoutthechoke.Trimbabyartichokes,andleavewholeorcutinhalf.Trimbroccoliandcauliflowerstemsandpeelouterlayerofstalks.Cutdiagonallyinto½-inch-thickslices.Brushcutsidesofvegetableswitholiveoil;seasonwithsaltandpepper.Grillovermedium,directlyongratesorinagrillbasket,turningasneeded,untiltenderandcharredinspots,5to12minutes,dependingonsize.

FLAVORPAIRINGSBroccoli,cauliflower,andbrusselssproutsarestrong-tastingvegetableswhoseflavorisbroughttonewlifebyotherpotentingredients—bacon,garlic,andmustardareallgoodexamples.Artichokeshaveasubtlertaste.Commonlypairedwithbutter,theyarealsoenlivenedbyherbsandlemon.Onethingnottoservewithartichokesiswine:theartichokesblockyourtastebuds’abilitytoappreciatethewine.Mildblossomswillenlivenanydishfeaturingtheherborvegetabletheybloomfrom—butcanbeoverwhelmedbystrongflavors,soreservethemforsubtlercombinations.

ARTICHOKES:butter,toastedbreadcrumbs,garlic,Parmesan,onions,parsley,thymeBROCCOLI:garlic,anchovy,red-pepperflakes,lemon,mustard,cheddar,Parmesan,sausageBRUSSELSSPROUTS:bacon,walnuts,lemon,Pecorino,mustard,parsley,appleciderCAULIFLOWER:cheddar,mustard,curry,apple,garlic,parsley,saffron,raisins,anchovyCHIVEBLOSSOMS:eggs,ricotta,potatoes,salads,creamsoups,salmon,crèmefraîcheSQUASHBLOSSOMS:basil,ricotta,Parmesan,mozzarella,eggs,tomato,cilantro,shrimp

THERECIPES

NasturtiumSaladwithArtichokesandAsparagus

Oven-FriedBabyArtichokes

SmokyBrusselsSproutsGratin

RoastedCauliflowerwithHerbSauce

CrispedBrusselsSproutLeaves

Squash-BlossomFrittata

GoatCheesewithEdibleFlowersandArugula

Broccoli,Shrimp,andShiitakeStir-Fry

BraisedChickenandBrusselsSprouts

CapelliniwithChiveBlossoms

RoastedBroccoliwithGratedManchego

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NasturtiumSaladwithArtichokesandAsparagusNasturtiumblossomsand

leavesmakebeautiful,tastyadditionstosoups,pastadishes,andsalads,including

thisharbinger-of-springdishthatfeaturesartichokesandpurplepotatoes.Youcanfindnasturtiumsinarangeofhuesat

farmers’markets.SERVES4

lemon,halved

largeartichokes,trimmed(seePrepping)Coarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper

ouncessmallpotatoes,preferablypurpleorblue,scrubbedouncesasparagus,toughendstrimmedandspearscutonthebiasinto2-inchpiecescupsspicymixedsaladgreens,suchastatsoi,arugula,andwatercresscupnasturtiumsandchiveblossoms,plusmoreforgarnishbunchradishes,thinlysliced

cupDijonmustard

cuprice-winevinegar(unseasoned)

cupsaffloweroil

1.Bring1inchofwatertoaboilinalargepot.Squeezejuiceoflemonintopot.Setasteamerbasketinpot.Addartichokes,seasonwithsalt,cover,andsteam20minutes.Addpotatoestosteamer.Continuesteaminguntilpotatoesandartichokesareeasilypiercedwiththetipofasharpknife,12to15minutes.Letcooltoroomtemperature.

2.Meanwhile,bring2inchesofwatertoaboilinasaucepan.Generously

seasonwithsalt.Addasparagusandboiluntilcrisp-tender,about1minute.Transfertoanice-waterbathuntilcool.Drainandpatdry.

3.Removepetalsfromartichokesandreserve.Scoopoutchokesfromheartswithaspoon,thensliceheartslengthwiseintoquarters.Slicepotatoesinto¼-inch-thickrounds.Divideartichokehearts,potatoes,asparagus,greens,flowers,andradishesamongfourplates.

4.Whisktogethermustardandvinegarinabowl.Addoilinaslow,steadystream,whiskingconstantly,untildressingisemulsified.Seasongenerouslywithsaltandpepper.

5.Lightlydrizzlesaladsevenlywithsomeofthedressingandgarnishwithmoreflowers.Serveremainingdressingwithreservedartichokepetalsontheside.

We’vetakensomelibertieswiththeItalianpairingofcauliflowerandpastainthecookingmethodhere.First,thepastaissimmeredinanovenproofskilletwithwater,oil,andseasonings,thenit’stoppedwithcauliflower,capers,andParmigiano-Reggiano,

andbroiledtofinish.Youcouldusethissametechniquewithbroccoli,too.

SERVES4

poundbucatini

cupswater

cupextra-virginoliveoil,plusmorefordrizzlingFreshoreganosprigs,plus1tablespoonchoppedleaves

teaspoonred-pepperflakes,plusmoreforservingCoarsesalt

teaspoonfinelygratedlemonzestand2tablespoonsfreshlemonjuice,pluswedgesforservingheadcauliflower,stemtrimmedandfloretsfinelychopped(about4cups)tablespoonscapers,preferablysalt-packed,rinsedanddrainedcupfinelygratedParmigiano-Reggianocheese,plusmoreforserving1.Heatbroilerwithrack8inchesfromheatingelement.Combinepasta,thewater,2tablespoonsoil,1oreganosprig,red-pepperflakes,and2teaspoonssaltinalarge,straight-sidedovenproofskillet.Bringtoaboilovermedium-highheat;continuecooking,stirringoccasionally,untilsauceismostlyreducedandpastaisaldente,accordingtopackageinstructions,about8minutes.Removefromheat;stirinlemonzestandjuice.

2.Inabowl,tosscauliflowerwithremaining2tablespoonsoil,½teaspoonsalt,thecapers,cheese,andoreganoleaves.Sprinkleoverpastainskillet.Broiluntilcauliflowerisgoldeninspotsandpastaisheatedthrough,about5minutes.Tosstocombine.Servewithmorecheeseandred-pepperflakes,adrizzleofoil,oreganosprigs,andlemonwedges.

Oven-FriedBabyArtichokesOnceyouremovetheouterleavesandtrimthestems,youcaneatbabyartichokesintheirentirety(there’snochoketoremove).Theyalsodon’ttakelongtocook,meaning

youcanquicklyfrythem(here,intheoven)untiltenderinsidebutgoldenbrownoutside.

SERVES6

largeeggyolk

teaspoonfinelygratedlemonzestplus2tablespoonslemonjuiceteaspoonmincedgarlic

tablespoonssalt-packedcapers,rinsedanddrainedcupextra-virginoliveoil

Flakyseasaltandfreshlygroundpepper

babyartichokes,trimmed(seePrepping)1.Preheatovento500°Fwithrackinlowestpositionandarimmedbakingsheetonrack(thishelpscrispartichokes).

2.Puréeyolk,lemonzestandjuice,garlic,andcapersinablenderuntilsmooth.Withmotorrunning,slowlyadd⅓cupoilinasteadystream;blenduntilmixtureisthickandcreamy.Seasongenerouslywithsaltandpepper.Transfercaperaïolitoaservingbowl.

3.Tossartichokeswithremaining⅓cupoilinabowl.Placeupsidedownonhotbakingsheet,androastuntilpetalsarecrispandartichokeheartsaretender,8to13minutes.Sprinklewithsalt,andserveimmediatelywithcaperaïoli.

⅔1½

SmokyBrusselsSproutsGratinThisholiday-worthysidedishwillwinovereventhebrusselssproutsaverse.ThesproutsareblanchedthencombinedwithgratedsmokedGoudainarich,creamy

gratin.

SERVES8

tablespoonsall-purposeflour

cupswholemilk

cupcoarselygratedsmokedGoudacheese(2ounces)poundsbrusselssprouts

cupfinelygratedagedGoudacheese(2ounces)Pinchofflakysmokedseasalt,suchasMaldon

1.Preheatovento375°F.Meltbutterinasaucepanovermediumheat.Addflourandwhiskuntilmixturebubblesslightlybuthasnotstartedtobrown,about2minutes.Graduallywhiskinmilk.Raiseheatandbringtoaboil,whiskingoften.Reduceheattolow,andcook,stirringoccasionallywithawoodenspoon,untilthickened,12to15minutes.Seasonwithcoarsesaltandpepper.Removefromheat.AddsmokedGouda;stiruntilmeltedandsmooth.

2.Meanwhile,blanchbrusselssproutsinapotofsaltedboilingwateruntiljusttender,3to4minutes.Drain,andtransfertoa2-quartbakingdish.

3.Pourcheesesauceoversprouts,andsprinklewithagedGoudaandsmokedseasalt.Bake,uncovered,untilbubblingandgolden,about25minutes.Serveimmediately.

Broilingcauliflowerisafasterwaythanroastingtoachieveasimilargolden-browntenderness.Wecombinecauliflowerwithsaltycapersandsweetgoldenraisins,fora

dishwithItalianflavors.Tomakeitameal,thecaulifloweristoppedwithstripedbassandbroiledsomemore.Anotherfirm-fleshedfish,suchashalibutorsalmon,canbe

substitutedforthestripedbass.

SERVES4

smallheadcauliflower,trimmedandcutinto½-inch-thickslicestablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil,plusmoreforservingCoarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper

skin-onstripedbassfillets(eachabout6ounces)tablespoonssalt-packedcapers,rinsedanddrainedtablespoonsgoldenraisins

Mixedfreshherbs,suchasparsley,tarragon,andchives

1.Heatbroilerwithrack6inchesfromheatingelement.Placecaulifloweronarimmedbakingsheetanddrizzlewith2tablespoonsoil;seasonwithsaltandpepper,thentosstocombine.Spreadinasinglelayerandbroiluntilcrisp-tenderandgoldenbrowninspots,about10minutes.

2.Drizzlefishwithremaining1tablespoonoil;seasongenerouslywithsaltandpepper.Placeontopofcauliflower,skinsideup,andaddcaperstosheet.Broiluntilfishisjustopaquethroughout,5to7minutes.Addraisinsandbroiljustuntilplumpandhot,about30seconds.Drizzlefishandvegetableswithvinegar,anddivideevenlyamongfourplates.Servesprinkledgenerouslywithherbsanddrizzledwithmoreoil.

TIPBroilersvaryinheatintensity;movetheracktoalowerpositionifthecauliflowerorfishisbrowningtoo

quickly,ortoahigherrackiftooslowly.

RoastedCauliflowerwithHerbSauceWhenroastingcauliflower,thetransformationfromsturdyandbittertotenderandmildlysweetisarevelation.Here,thewholeheadiswrappedinparchmentandthen

steam-roastedtillit’stenderenoughtoscoopwithaspoon.

SERVES8

largeheadcauliflower

cuppackedchoppedfreshflat-leafparsley

cuppackedchoppedfreshcilantroleavesandstemsteaspoonmincedgarlic

teaspoonsDijonmustard

1.Preheatovento450°F.Placecaulifloweronalargeparchment-linedrimmedbakingsheet.Brushwith¼cupoil;seasonwithsaltandpepper.Pullshortsidesofparchmentovercauliflowerandfoldoneendoverotherafewtimestoseal.Foldlongendsofparchmentundercauliflowertocreateapacket.Roastuntilknife-tender;about40minutes.Tearopenparchmentattop;continuetoroastuntilgoldenbrown,15to20minutesmore.

2.Stirtogetherparsley,cilantro,garlic,mustard,vinegar,andremaining½cupoilinasmallbowltocombine.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.Servecauliflowerwarm,withherbsaucealongside.

CrispedBrusselsSproutLeavesRoastingbrusselssproutleavesturnsthemcrispandcrunchy.Simpleseasoningsareallthat’sneeded;sproutsdowellwithbrightflavorslikelemonzestandrichingredientssuchashazelnutsandnuttycheeses(here,PecorinoRomano).Asgreatasthisisasa

sidedish,theleavesalsomakeatastytoppingforpizza.

SERVES6

poundbrusselssprouts,trimmed,leavesseparatedtablespoonextra-virginoliveoil

tablespoonfinelygratedlemonzest,pluslemonwedgesforservingcuphazelnuts,coarselychopped

cupfinelygratedPecorinoRomanocheese(1ounce)Preheatovento375°F.Onarimmedbakingsheet,tossbrusselssproutleaveswithoil,zest,andhazelnuts.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.Roastuntilleavesarecrispandgoldenaroundedges,10to12

minutes.Sprinklewithcheeseandservewithlemonwedges.

Squash-BlossomFrittataAnyonewhohaseverplantedzucchiniknowsit’shardtokeepupwiththesteadysupply(oronslaught!)ofvegetablesandflowers.Thus,gardenersarealwayslookingfornewwaystopreparethemboth.Forthissimpleandbeautifulfrittata,halftheblossomsare

stirredintotheeggs,andtherestarescatteredoverthetopalongwithmozzarella.

SERVES4TO6

mediumonion,thinlysliced

tablespoonsmincedfreshcilantro

squashblossoms

largeeggs,lightlybeaten

4 ouncesfreshmozzarellacheese,sliced

1.Preheatovento375°F.Heatoilinalargenonstickovenproofskilletovermedium.Addonion,cilantro,andhalfthesquashblossoms,andcook,stirring,1minute.Addeggs,seasonwithsaltandpepper,andtransfertooven.

2.Bakeuntiljustset,about10minutes.Topwithmozzarellaandremainingsquashblossoms.Returntoovenuntilcheesemeltsandfrittataisgoldeninspots,about5minutesmore.Servewarm.

GoatCheesewithEdibleFlowersandArugulaWhenyouhaveabunchofedible

blossoms,lettheirvibrantcolorsdotheworkforyou.Simplymixchoppedflowers

(petalsandleaves)intosoftenedgoatcheese,thenshapeintoroundsandpatmoreflowersontop.Anyedibleflowerwillwork;pepperynasturtium,borage,

andpansyareshownhere.SERVES12

largelogs(11ounceseach)freshgoatcheese,roomtemperaturecuppackedarugula,coarselychopped

Freshlygroundpepper

cupslooselypackededibleblossomsandleaves,coarselychoppedCrackersorthinlyslicedbaguetterounds,forserving

1.Stironegoat-cheeseloginabowluntilsmooth.Mixinarugula,andseasonwithpepper.Inanotherbowl,stirremaininggoat-cheeseloguntilsmooth.Mixin1½cupsflowersandleaves,andseasonwithpepper.

2.Formeachmixtureintotwoorthreedisks(eachabout½inchthick).Rollinremainingblossoms.Placedisksonaparchment-linedbakingsheet,cover,andrefrigerateuntilchilled,about30minutes.Servewithcrackersorbaguetterounds.

Broccoli,Shrimp,andShiitakeStir-FryThebriefhigh-heatcookingofstir-fryingsuitsbroccoli,sinceyouwantittoretainsomeofitscrunch,andthecolorbrightensaswell.Here,broccoliiscombinedwithshiitakemushroomsandshrimp;you’llwanttousethesimplegarlic-ginger-soy-saucemixture

inotherstir-fries,too.Serveoversteamedwhiteorbrownrice.

SERVES4

teaspoonfinelygratedpeeledfreshginger

tablespoonsricevinegar(unseasoned)

poundfreshshiitakemushrooms,stemmedandhalved(largeonesquartered)poundlargeshrimp(16to20count),peeledanddeveinedheadbroccoli,separatedintosmallflorets(2cups)scallions,finelychopped,forserving

1.Stirtogethergarlic,ginger,vinegar,soysauce,andred-pepperflakesinasmallbowl.

2.Inawokorlargeskillet,heatoilovermediumhigh.Addmushroomsandcook,stirring,justuntiltender,about5minutes.Stiringarlicmixtureandcookuntilslightlyreduced,about2minutes.

3.Addshrimpandbroccoli,andcook,stirring,untilshrimpareopaquethroughoutandbroccoliiscrisp-tender,3to4minutes.Toserve,topwithscallions.

BraisedChickenandBrusselsSproutsAfteryearsofbeingovercooked,underappreciated,andgenerallyscorned,brusselssproutsarefinallygettingtheirdue.Insteadofboilingthem(todeath),cookshave

championedahostofwaystopreparethem,includingroastingandshavingintoslawsandsalads.Thisone-pandinnerpresentsanotheroption:Sautéhalvedsproutsuntil

golden,thenoven-braisewithchickenuntilperfectlytender.

SERVES4

wholechicken(3to4pounds),cutinto10piecesCoarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper

poundbrusselssprouts,trimmedandhalved

mediumshallots,thinlysliced

tablespoonDijonmustard

cupapplecidervinegar

cuplow-sodiumchickenbroth

tablespoonsheavycream

1.Preheatovento375°F.Inalargeovenproofskillet,heatoilovermediumhigh.Seasonchickenalloverwithsaltandpepper.Workinginbatches,cookchickenuntilbrowned,about6minutesperside.Transfertoaplate,thenaddbrusselssproutsandshallotstopan.Sautéuntilgoldenbrown,about3minutes.Stirinmustardandcook,stirring,1minute.Addvinegarandbroth,returnchickentopan,andbringtoarapidsimmer.

2.Transferpantoovenandbraiseuntilchickeniscookedthrough,20to25minutes.Removefromoven.Addheavycreamtopanandswirltocombine;seasonwithsaltandpepper,andserve.

CapelliniwithChiveBlossomsThelovelypurpleblossomsthatappearwhenchiveshavematuredtastejustlikethe

herb,onlyinflowerform.Suchaneye-catchingcomponentinstantlymakesanydish—scrambledeggs,creamysoups,mashedpotatoes,evenpasta—moreappealing.

SERVES4TO6

cupcrèmefraîche

cupmincedchiveblossoms,plusmoreforgarnishcupsnippedfreshchives,plusmoreforgarnishto2teaspoonslemonjuice

ouncescapellinipasta

jar(4ounces)whitefishcaviar

1 hard-cookedegg,yolkandwhiteseparated

1.Stirtogether¾cupcrèmefraîche,thechiveblossoms,chives,andlemonjuicetotasteinabowl.Seasonwithsalt.

2.Cookpastainalargepotofsaltedboilingwateruntilaldente,accordingtopackageinstructions.Reserve¾cuppastawater;drainpasta.Tosspastawithbutterandcrème-fraîchemixture,addingenoughpastawatertomakealightsauce.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.

3.Placeasmalldollopofremainingcrèmefraîcheineachoffourtosixdishes,andsprinklewithchiveblossomsandchives.Dividepastaamongdishes.Topwithcaviarandmorecrèmefraîche.Presseggwhiteandyolkthroughasieve,thensprinkleoverpasta.Serveimmediately.

RoastedBroccoliwithGratedManchegoThere’sboiledandsteamedbroccoliblanketedwithmeltedcheese,andthenthere’sthisupgrade.Roastingturnsbroccolibrownandtenderanddelicious.Wecooktheflorets

andthe(peeledandthinlysliced)stalkstogether,thenfinishwithaspritzoflemonjuiceandadustingofManchego—anuttysheep’s-milkcheesefromSpain.

SERVES6

largeheadsbroccoli

garliccloves,smashed

to½teaspoonred-pepperflakes

Coarsesalt

tablespoonfreshlemonjuice,pluswedgesforservingcupfinelygratedManchego

cheese,forserving1.Preheatovento450°Fwithracksinupperandlowerthirds.Trim1inchfromendofbroccolistalks.Cutoffflorets,andseparateintolargepieces.Usingavegetablepeelerorparingknife,peelouterlayerofstalks;thinlyslicecrosswise.

2.Dividebroccoli(stalksandflorets),garlic,oil,andred-pepperflakesbetweentwolargerimmedbakingsheets;seasonwithsalt.Tosstocombine,thenspreadevenlyonsheets.Roastuntilbroccoliiscrisp-tenderandbeginningtobrown,20to25minutes,rotatingsheetsfromtoptobottomandtossingbroccolioncehalfwaythrough.

3.Sprinklebroccoliwithlemonjuice;tosstocoat.Serve,toppedwithcheeseandlemonwedges.

AVOCADOS

CUCUMBERS

EGGPLANTS

PEPPERSANDCHILES

SUMMERSQUASHES

TOMATILLOS

TOMATOES

WINTERSQUASHES

FRUITS

It’s a riddle befitting the Mad Hatter, this when-is-a-vegetable-not-a-vegetablequestion.But it takesmorethanjust tea-party nonsense to make tomatoes, peppers, andavocadosqualifyasbotanicalfruits.Bydefinition,fruitsareseed packages—a plant’s bid for future generations—wrapped in delectable, fragrant flesh, covered by a skinwhose color appeals to hungry animals. A form ofcommunication not just between species but also acrosstaxonomic kingdoms, fruits tempt mobile creatures intoacting as agents for the plant, carrying the seeds in theirdigestive tracts, and thendepositing them far fromhome.Even the fieriest chiles utilize the services of birds todistribute their seeds; certain species of tropical birds areimmunetothechiles’heat.

Sowhydowecallcertainfruitsvegetables?Theanswerissurprisinglyunscientific.Sometimesithastodowiththeirsugarcontent.Tomatoes, forexample,areabout3percentsugar, while peaches and plums are 10 percent. But thatruledoesn’tapplytowintersquashessuchasbutternutsandpumpkins,whicharenotonlysweetbutalsoascomfortablyathomeonthedessertplateasonthedinnerplate.Inthosecases, the classification seems to have to do with the factthatwenevereatthemraw,aswedowithotherfruits.Yetavocadosandcucumbersarealmostalwayseatenraw,andweconsider themvegetables; in theircase, it’sbackto thesugar content. Ultimately, one fact escapes confusion: These fruits areamongthemostpopularinthevegetablekingdom.

THEBASICS

SEASONALITYNearlyallthesefruits/vegetablesaresummerbabies,turningbrightandplumpinthehotsunofJulyandAugust.Sweetpeppersandchilesripenintoearlyfall.And,astheirnameimplies,wintersquashesmatureincoolweather;harvestedSeptemberthroughNovember(“autumnsquashes”wouldbeamoreaptname),theyaresoldthroughoutthewinter,whentheirrich,earthyflavorsareappreciated.

BUYINGFruitsacquireflavors,sugars,andnutrientsfromtheparentplant,sothebestonesareallowedtoripeninthefieldandsoldclosetowherethey’regrown.Inotherwords,thiscategoryisespeciallyworthseekingoutatfarmstandsandgreenmarkets.Lookforcucumbers,peppers,tomatoes,summersquash(includingzucchini),andeggplantsthatfeeltautandsmooth-skinned,andareheavyfortheirsize,withvivid,deepcolor.Thesamecriteriaapplytowintersquashsuchashubbard,butternut,andkabocha.Asforsize,itdoesn’tmuchmatterexceptwitheggplantsandsummersquash—thesmalleronesarefarsuperiorintexturebecausetheircellwallstoughenandfillwithwaterastheygrow,becomingstringy,bland,andwatery.Asfortomatillos,selectthosewithloose,paperyhusksandnobruises.Theexceptiontotheclose-to-homeruleisavocados:TheyoriginatedinMexicoandGuatemala,andsothebestU.S.-grownonescomefromCaliforniaandFlorida.Avocadosarepickedhardandtheyripenonlyafterharvest.Becausetheybruiseeasilywhenripe,it’sbesttobuythemwhenthey’restillfirmandletthemsoftenathome,placingtheminapaperbagonthekitchencounteruntilbarelysoft.

NOTABLEVARIETIESAvocados:Atanytimeofyear,therewillbeanavocadoinseason,andit’sworthlookingforthematfarmers’marketsinCaliforniaandFlorida,andatspecialtyfoodstoreseverywhereelse.MostCaliforniavarietiesoriginatedinGuatemala:thewell-knownHassavocado;pear-shapedFuerte,withskinthatremainsbrightgreen,even

whenveryripe;androundReed,withthickgreenskinthat’seasytopeel.InFlorida,youaremorelikelytofindWestIndianvarietiessuchasBooth,Lula,andTaylor,whichcomeintoseasoninthemiddleofsummer.Mexicanvarietiestendtobeonthesmallerside;themostpopulararetheBacon(slightlybrownishskinthat’seasytopeel)andtheZutano(jadegreenskinandcreamyyellowflesh).

Cucumbers:Manyso-calledslicingcucumbersarecultivatedtohaveseedsthatarebarelyperceptible,withverytenderskins,meaningnoseedingorpeelingisrequired.BesidesEnglishcucumbers,therearelittlePersiancucumbersandstrikingArmeniancucumberswithpalestripedskin,smooth-skinnedMediterranean(orLebanese)cucumbers,andlong,dark-greenJapanesecucumbers,whichresembleEnglishonesbuthavebumpyskins.Picklingcucumberstendtobeshorter,thicker,andbumpier;KirbyandLibertyarethemostcommonofthese.

Eggplants:Thisfruitiscultivatedaroundtheworldinarangeofcolors,shapes,andsizesthatgobeyondtheheftydark-purpleglobesfoundinourgrocerystores.ItalianbreedsincludeBarbarella,whichcangrowuptohalfafootwideandnearlyaslong;squat,ovalBeatrice,whichismildandcreamy;streaky,thick-skinnedNubia;andwhiteClaraeggplants,whicharemeatyandmild.ChineseandJapaneseeggplantsaretypicallylong,slim,anddelicatetasting,whilethesmaller,rounderAsianvarietiessuchasCalliope(orIndian)andKermits(orThai)arefastcookingandrarelybitter.You’llknowGraffitieggplantsbytheirvioletandwhitestripeswithvelvetyflesh;atamere2to4inches,FairyTalesarelessseedythanglobesand,hence,lessbitter.

Peppersandchiles:Thesecomeinmanydifferentshapes,colors,andheatlevels.Amongbellpeppers,therearePurpleBell,ChocolateBeauty,andDove(white-orivory-skinned).Hotchilesinclude:Anaheim,fromNewMexico;Cascabel;Cayenne;Chilaca,thenameforagreenfruitofapasillapepper,whichtranslatesas“littleraisin”owingtoitsdrieddark-brownpods;Chiltepin,theclosestthingtotheoriginalwildpepper(and,whendried,theworld’ssecond-most-expensivespice,aftersaffron);Cubanelle,alongsweetpepperthat’salsoknownasItalianfryingpepper;Manzano;Padrón(orshishito)peppers;andAsianchilessuchasThaiHotandThaiBird.Waxpeppers,socalledfortheirshiny,polished-lookingskins,includeHungarianWax,SanteFeGrande,andYellowBanana.

Summersquashes:Thevastrangemaycomeasasurprisetomanyofus.CrooknecksquashsuchasHornofPlentyareso-namedfortheircurvaceousshapes.PattypansquashsuchasButterScalloparealsonamedfortheirsquatshapes.Babysquash,

includingButterstickandSunburst,arepickedwhenyoung.Ofthestraight-neckedvarieties,there’sZebraZuke,astrikingzucchiniwithlight-anddark-greenstripes,andtwo-tonedZephyrs.Thenthereareroundvarieties,includingRondedeNice,anheirloomzucchiniwithcreamyfleshandtenderskin;Cousa,usedinMiddleEasterncooking,whichistenderandsweet;andTatuma,aMexicanvarietythatresemblesCousabutwithaverythinskin(andveryfewseeds).

Tomatoes:Everyone’sfavoritesummerfruitbegstobeexplored;startwithexceptionallysweetSunGold,atypeofcherrytomatowithagolden-orangeflesh.Thentherearehundredsofheirloomvarieties:Brandywinehasexcellentflavorandslightlypurpleskinwhenripe;roundBlackRussianhasarichflavor,whilePurpleRussianisameatyplumtomato;CherokeePurpleisabeefsteak-styletomatoprizedforitsexceptionalflavor;SpeckledRomanisanotherexcellentplumtomato;BigRainbowisrichandmelony;BlackCherryiscomplexandmild,withaslightacidtang;GreenDoctorissweet,withgoodacidicbalance;Reisetomatehasstrongtomatoflavor;GreenZebraandYellowPeachareslightlytart;andJauneFlammeiswonderfullyfruity.

Wintersquashes:Similartogourdsthatareharvestedinthesummer,thosethatarefoundinfallandwintercomeinanarrestingarrayofshapes,colors,textures,andsizes.Calabaza(orWestIndianPumpkin)hasasweet,juicygoldenfleshsimilartobutternut;delicatahasfine,creamyfleshandtenderskinthatcanbeeaten(aswithacornsquash);bumpy-skinnedhubbardshavethick,sweetmeat;HokkaidosarechoiceJapanesevarietieswithdry,flaky,sweetflesh;kabochaisanotherJapanesevarietywithasimilartasteandtexture;NewEnglandPie(orSmallSugarPumpkin)hassmooth,verysweetfleshthat’sidealforpiemaking;single-serving-sizeSweetDumplingshavetwo-tonedskins;CheesePumpkin(namedforitsshape,whichresemblesaflattenedcheesebox)isfine-grainedandsweet;Cushawhassweet,moist,pale-yellowflesh;WhiteSwanisanacorn-typesquashinshapeandflavor,withcreamy-whiteskin;Rougevifd’Etampes,alsoknownasCinderella,isanheirloomFrenchvarietywithdense,flavorfulflesh.

STORINGTheruleofthumbwithstoringfruitsistomimictheclimateinwhichtheyripen.Tomatoes,avocados,eggplant,tomatillos,andpeppersareallhot-weather,full-sunshinecrops,andtheysuffercelldamageifrefrigerated—tomatoesturnmealy;eggplantsandavocadosgrowspongyandgray-browninside.Becausezucchiniandcucumbersgrowinthecoolshadeoftheirplants’broadleaves,theycanwithstanda

cucumbersgrowinthecoolshadeoftheirplants’broadleaves,theycanwithstandabriefspellofrefrigeration.Wintersquashesprefercooltemperaturesaround50°F,butwon’tbeharmedbyafewdaysintherefrigerator,ifyoucan’teatthemrightaway.

PREPPINGCutavocadoslengthwisearoundthepitandtwisttoseparatethehalves,thenusealargespoontoscoopouttheflesh,orpeelawaytheskinandslicetheflesh—dousingitwithcitrusjuiceorvinegarasyouworktokeepitfrombrowning.

Dependingonvariety,cucumbersmaybeseedyorseedless(aswithEnglishcucumbers),andmaybethin-skinnedorthick;thelattershouldbepeeledbeforeuse(especiallyifthey’rewaxed).Toremoveseeds,cutinhalflengthwise,thenscoopoutwithateaspoon.Don’tdressorsaltcucumbersuntiljustbeforeservingortheywillturnwatery.

Examinesummersquashclosely:manyneedonlyagoodrinse,butiftheylayagainstthedirtastheyripened,theymightneedagentlescrub.

Theskinofwintersquashescanbelinoleum-hard;ifyourrecipecallsforskinlesswedgesorchunks,itmaybenecessarytoslicethesquashintowedgesbeforeparingtheskinawaywithasmallknifeorpeeler.

Waterbetweenthecellwallsgiveseggplantitsspongytexture;roastingorbakingevaporatesit,butifyou’refryingeggplantorusingitinstews,youcanmakethefleshfirmerbysaltingtheslicesfirst,andlayingtheminacolanderoronaracktodrain.

Tocutrawsweetpeppers,standthemonendandcutthefleshfromtoptobottom;removeribsandseedswithaknife.Whencuttingchiles,alwaysusegloves,anddon’ttouchyoureyesornoseoranyothersensitiveareasuntilyou’vewashedyourhands.Leaveribsandseedsunlessyoupreferamilderheat.

Removetomatillos’paperyhusksbeforecooking,andrinseoffthestickycoating(frombitter-tastingsaponins)onthefruits’skin.

Asfortomatoes,ifyouwishtoremovetheirskins,cutasmall,shallowXintotheskinattheroundedend,dunktheminrapidlyboilingwaterfor15seconds,thentransfertoanice-waterbath.Theskinwilleasilypeelaway.Otherwise,toremovetheseedyflesh,coreandquartertomatoeslengthwise,flatteneachpiecewiththeinsideup,andscrapeitcleanwithaknife;thenyoucaneasilycutthosepiecesintoa

finediceorasdesired.

COOKINGMostfruitsareincrediblyversatilewhenitcomestocooking.Evenavocadoscanbegrilledorbroileduntilcharred(perfectfortoppingtoasts),andcucumberstakewelltosautéing.Summersquashrespondswelltoarangeoftreatments,andisalsoexcellentgratedandfriedintocrispcakesorfritters,orbakedintoquickbreads.Tomatoesandpepperscanbecookedalmostanywhichway—stewed,baked,roasted,simmered,puréed.Althoughtomatillosarerelatedtotomatoes,they’remuchlessversatileandbestusedtomakesaucesandsalsas;tryroastingthetomatillosfirstuntilblackenedtoaddasmoky,charredflavor.Eggplant,too,isfussyabouthowit’sprepared;itsspongyfleshquicklybecomeswaterloggedorleadenwithoilifdrenched.However,roastingorgrilling—dryheattechniques—compressesitsfleshandundoesthemealiness.Ifyoustartwithwholeorhalvedroastedeggplants,youcanscoopoutthecreamyinsidestomakebabaganoushandotherpurées;slicesorchunksturnalmostmeaty,andcanbetossedintosaucesandspreads,orusedtotoppizza.Wintersquashescanberoasted(wholeorcutintopieces),simmeredinsoupsandstews,braised,baked(withorwithoutstuffing),boiledandmashedorpuréed,orsteamed.

HOWTOSTEAM(Foreggplants,summersquashes,wintersquashes)Cuteggplantandsummersquashinto1-inch-thickrounds;peelandseedwintersquashandcutinto1-inchpieces.Placeinasteamerbasket(orcolander)setinapotwith2incheswater.Bringtoaboil,cover,andsteamuntiltender,5to10minutes.Drizzlewitholiveoilandseasonwithsaltandpepper.

HOWTOROAST(Foreggplants,summersquashes,wintersquashes)Cuteggplantandsummersquashintouniformpieces(cubes,rounds,orlengthwisestrips).Peelwintersquashes(exceptacornanddelicata,whichdonotneedtobepeeled)andremoveseeds.Drizzlewitholiveoil,seasonwithsaltandpepper,andtosstocombine.Spreadevenlyonarimmedbakingsheetandroastat450°F,tossingonceortwice,untiltenderandgoldenbrown,20to30minutes.

(Forpeppersandchiles)Roastwholepeppersandchilesdirectlyovertheflameofagasburneruntil

Roastwholepeppersandchilesdirectlyovertheflameofagasburneruntilblackenedandblistered,turningwithkitchentongs(alternately,roastunderthebroiler).Placeinabowl,cover,andletsteamabout10minutes.Ruboffskinwithpapertowels;useaparingknifeforstubbornspots.Cutasdesiredorspecifiedinarecipeandremoveribsandseedsofbellpeppers;leaveribsandseedsinchilesformoreheat.Tosswitholiveoilandsaltandpepper,totaste.

(Fortomatoes)Halveplumtomatoesandarrange,cutsideup,onarimmedbakingsheet.Brushwitholiveoil,andseasonwithsaltandpepper;addafewherbsprigs,suchasthymeororegano,alongwithsomeslicedgarliccloves.Slow-roastina350°Fovenuntilsoftened,about1hour.Letcoolandrefrigerate,covered,upto5days.

HOWTOSAUTÉ(Forallfruitexceptavocados)Leavecherryorgrapetomatoeswholeorcutinhalf;halveplumtomatoes,scoopoutpulpifdesired,andthenfinelychopflesh.Halvecucumberslengthwiseandscoopoutanyseeds.Halvepeppersandchiles,andremoveribsandseedsfrompeppers.Huskandrinsetomatillos.Peelandseedwintersquash.Cutvegetablesinto1-inchpieces;summersquashcanalsobegratedonthelargeholesofaboxgrater.Heatoliveoilorbutterinalargeskilletovermediumhigh.Addvegetables;seasonwithsaltandpepper.Cook,stirringoccasionally,untiltenderandgoldenbrown,10to15minutes,dependingonsizeofpieces.Sprinklewithlemonjuiceorvinegar,seasonwithsalt,andtopwithchoppedfreshherbs.

HOWTOGRILL(Foravocados)Brushahalvedavocado(peeledandpitted)withlimejuiceandoliveoil.Grillovermediumheat,cutsidedown,1to2minutes.Rotatetocreatecross-hatchmarks,andgrill1minutemore.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.

(Foreggplantsandsummersquashes)Cuteggplantandsummersquashinto½-inch-thickslices.Brushbothsideswitholiveoil,andseasonwithsaltandpepper.Grillovermedium-highheatuntilcharredinspots,about5minutes;flipslicesandcookuntilcharredonotherside,about5minutesmore.Drizzlewithmoreoilandsprinklewithchoppedherbs.

(Forpeppersandchiles)Halvebellpepperslengthwise,andremoveribsandseeds.Grillovermedium-highheat,cutsidesdown,untilbeginningtosoften,about5minutes;flippeppersandcookuntilcharredinspots,about5minutesmore.Cutintothinstrips.Tosswith

cookuntilcharredinspots,about5minutesmore.Cutintothinstrips.Tosswitholiveoil,andseasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.

(Fortomatoes)Halveplumtomatoeslengthwise.Tosswitholiveoil,andseasonwithsaltandpepper.Grillovermedium-highheat,cutsidesdown,untilcharredinspots,about5minutes;fliptomatoesandcookuntilcharredonotherside,about5minutesmore.

FLAVORPAIRINGSNewWorldnatives—tomatoes,summersquashes,sweetpeppers,andchiles—allpairbeautifullywithoneanother,andwithmostMexicanandCentralAmericanflavorings:corn,cilantro,onions,lime.ButtheyareequallyathomeinMediterraneandishesflavoredwitholiveoil,oregano,thyme,orbasil.Andtheycomplementavarietyofcheeses,includingsharpParmesan,chalkyfetaandcotija,andmildandmilkymozzarella.Combinedwitheggplant,theybecometheclassicProvençalratatouille.Eggplantcangoinmanyotherdirectionsaswell—itssmoky,slightlybitterflavorcomplementsdeeplyumamimisoinJapanesedishesortahiniandlemoninMiddleEasterndishes.TomatillosturnupmostofteninMexicansauces,pairedwithonion,garlic,andsometimespulverizedpumpkinseeds.Butteryavocadoisenlivenedbyallkindsofcitrus—grapefruit,lime,lemon,orange—aswellassaltybaconandfreshherbs.Andchiles,whetherfreshordried,wholeorground,bringheatandflavortochicken,shrimp,beef,pork,vegetable,andgraindishestheworldover,fromThailandtotheCaribbean,ItalytoIndia,MexicotoMorocco.

AVOCADO:chiles,cilantro,lime,crab,shrimp,tomato,bacon,redonionCHILES:tomatoes,lime,cilantro,currypowder,cumin,coconut,onions,garlic,sugar,chicken,shellfish,pork,beefCUCUMBER:mint,dill,vinegar,onion,yogurt,garlic,lemon,salmonEGGPLANT:mozzarella,tomatoes,basil,anchovies,soysauce,sesame,yogurt,lentilsSUMMERSQUASHES:basil,tomato,ricotta,eggplant,chiles,parsley,oregano,garlicSWEETPEPPERS:onions,garlic,sausage,tomatoes,vinegar,potatoes,goatcheeseTOMATILLOS:cilantro,onion,garlic,tomatoes,tequila,fish,chicken,pork,avocadoTOMATOES:basil,thyme,mint,garlic,onion,peppers,goatcheese,mozzarella,fennelWINTERSQUASHES:sage,nutmeg,butter,bacon,maple,coconut,ginger

THERECIPES

PastawithMarinatedHeirloomTomatoes

MisoEggplant

TomatoandMangoSalad

Zucchini-ScallionFritters

PastawithZucchini,Mint,andPecorino

ZucchiniQuickBread

SkilletSteakPeperonata

PickledJalapeñosandCucumbers

BlisteredPadrónPepperswithSeaSalt

Zucchini“Pasta”Primavera

RoastedBellPeppers

TomatilloandChipotleSalsa

ChilesRellenos

Cucumber,Mango,andShrimpEscabèche

ChilledMelon,Cucumber,andMintSoup

StuffedTomatoeswithMozzarella

SalmonandAvocadoTartines

PistachioGuacamole

Roasted-TomatoHandPies

ButternutSquashandTaleggioPizza

RoastedAcornSquash,ThreeWays

ButternutSquashandKaleHash

PastawithMarinatedHeirloomTomatoesHeirloomtomatoes,designatedassuchbecausetheseedshavebeensavedbygrowersovergenerations,arecelebratedfortheirimperfections(unlikecommerciallygrown

hybrids,bredfordurabilityanduniformityratherthantaste).Here,wemarinatethemforahalfhourwithgarlicoilandotherseasoningstocreateano-cooksaucethat’s

tossedwithribbonsofpasta.

SERVES8

poundsassortedheirloomtomatoes,slicedintowedges

cupfreshbasil,torniflarge

tablespoonscapers,preferablysalt-packed,rinsedanddrained,choppediflargeteaspoonsfinelygratedlemonzest,plusmoreforserving

poundflatpastasuchasmaltagliati,cookeduntilaldente

1.Warmgarlicandoilinasaucepanoverlowheatuntilgarlicispalegold,about10minutes.Strain;reserveoilandgarlic.Letcool.

2.Combinetomatoes,¼cupbasil,thecapers,lemonzest,andred-pepperflakesinalargebowl,andseasonwithsalt.Pourgarlicoilandgarlicchipsovertomatomixture.Coverandletmarinate,tossingoccasionally,30minutes.

3.Meanwhile,cookpastainapotofgenerouslysaltedboilingwateruntilaldente,accordingtopackageinstructions.Drain.

4.Addwarmpastatotomatomixtureandtossgentlytocombine.Topwithremaining½cupbasilandthelemonzest,seasonwithblackpepper,andserve.

TIPForthisdish,boilthepastaaboutfiveminutesbeforethetomatoesareready.Thewarmthwillbringouttheflavorsofthefreshingredients.

Thissaladoffersahealthieralternativetofryingeggplant:Theroundsaresimplybroiledonawirerackuntilblistered,thentossedwitholiveoil.

SERVES4

largeeggplant,cutinto¼-inch-thickrounds

cupextra-virginoliveoil,plusmorefordrizzling

poundsmixedtomatoes

ouncesfetacheese,crumbled

cupmixedolives

½ cuplightlypackedfreshflat-leafparsleyleaves

1.Heatbroilerwithrack6inchesfromheatsource.Placeeggplantroundsonawireracksetonarimmedbakingsheet.Broiluntileggplantisblisteredanddeepbrownononeside,10to12minutes.Flipandbroiluntilblisteredonotherside,10to12minutes.Immediatelytransfertoalargebowl,tosswithoil,andcoverwithaplate.Letstanduntilsoftened,about10minutes.

2.Arrangeeggplantandtomatoesonaplatter,seasoningeachlayerwithsaltandpepperanddrizzlingwithoilbeforeaddingnextlayer.Topwithfeta,olives,andparsley,andserve.

MisoEggplantInspiredbyarecipeofchefNobuMatsuhisa,ownerofcelebratedrestaurantsaround

theworld,thisdishfeaturesasavory-sweet,irresistiblemisoglaze.

SERVES6TO8

cupwhite(shiro)miso

tablespoonssugar

tablespoonssake

tablespoonsmirin

Oliveoil,forfrying

Japaneseeggplants(about6ounceseach),halvedlengthwiseandfleshscoredinacross-hatchpatterntablespoonsesameseeds,toasted

Smallcilantrosprigs,forserving

1.Combinemisoandsugarinaheavy-bottomedsaucepan.Whiskinsakeandmirin.Bringtoasimmeroverlowheat,andcook,stirringfrequently,untilsugarisdissolvedandcolorbeginstodarken,30to45minutes.Removefromheat.

2.Heatbroilerwithrack4inchesfromheatsource.Linearimmedbakingsheetwithpapertowels.Inalargeheavy-bottomedsaucepan,heat2inchesofoilto360°F.Workinginbatches,placeeggplantsinpan,skinsideup,andfry1minute.Flipandfry30secondsmore.Transfertobakingsheet;letdrain.Returnoilto360°Fbetweenbatches.

3.Transfereggplants,skinsidedown,toanotherbakingsheet.Spreadeachhalfwith1heapingtablespoonmisomixture.Broiluntilmisobeginstocaramelize,1to2minutes.Sprinklewithsesameseedsandcilantro,andserve.

OurvegetariantakeonvealMilaneseisbothcrisp(thankstothepanko)andtender(thankstothetextureofeggplant).Butusingeggplantasastand-informeatisnothingnew;Italianhomecookshavealongtraditionofbuildingmealsaroundthecreamy-

fleshed,earthy-tastingfruit,mostlyintheinterestoffrugality.

SERVES4

largeeggplant,cutlengthwiseinto1-inch-thickslices

cupall-purposeflour

largeegg,whiskedwith1tablespoonwater

cupspankoorcoarsebreadcrumbs

Oliveoil,forfrying

cupsbabyarugula

ShavingsofParmigiano-Reggianocheese,forserving

Lemonwedges,forserving

1.Placeeggplantinalargecolanderandseasongenerouslywithsalt.Letstand30minutes,thenrinseandpatdry.

2.Placeflour,eggmixture,andbreadcrumbsinthreeseparateshallowbowls.Dredgeeacheggplantsliceinflour,turningtocoatandshakingoffexcess,thendipineggmixtureandcoatinbreadcrumbs.

3.Heat½inchoilina12-inchskilletovermedium.Workinginbatches,fryeggplantuntilgoldenandcrisp,about4minutesperside.Transfertoapaper-towel-linedplateandseasonwithsaltandpepper.

4.Topeachcutletwitharugulaandcheese,andservewithalemonwedge.

TomatoandMangoSaladCapturetheessenceofpeak-seasontomatoeswithtomatowater,anear-transparentliquidwiththesweettasteofthefreshfruit.Thissummerstarterfeaturescherry

tomatoes,cucumbers,mango,basil,andthinlyslicedchilebathingintomatoessence.

SERVES4

poundveryripetomatoes,coredandquartered

Coarsesalt

smallripemango

KirbyorPersiancucumber,cutintomatchsticks

pintcherrytomatoes,halvedorquarterediflarge

redThaiorserranochile,verythinlyslicedonthebias

tablespoonextra-virginoliveoil,plusmorefordrizzling

ThaiorItalianbasil,forserving

1.Puréetomatoesand¼teaspoonsaltinablenderuntilsmooth,about1minute.Lineacolanderwithfourlayersofdampenedcheeseclothandsetoveradeeppot.Pourtomatopuréeintocolander,coverwithplasticwrap,andrefrigerate,stirringoccasionally,until1to2cupstomatowaterhavedrippedintopot,about1day.Seasonwithsalt,ifdesired.

2.Peelmangoandcutfleshfrompit;discardpit.Cutfleshlengthwiseinto½-inchslices.Tossmango,cucumber,cherrytomatoes,chile,and1tablespoonoil.Seasonwithsaltanddividesaladamongfourbowls.Dividetomatoessenceamongbowls,topwithbasil,drizzlewithmoreoil,andserve.

Zucchini-ScallionFrittersZucchiniisoftengrated,touseinslawsandrawsalads,muffinsorquickbreads,orvegetablefritters,asinthisrecipe.Thesquashisfirmenoughtoeasilyshredonthe

largeholesofaboxgrater,yetitcooksupsoftandtender.

SERVES4

poundzucchini(about2medium),coarselygrated

largeegg

scallions,finelychopped

cupall-purposeflour

cupsaffloweroil

Sourcream,forserving

1.Placezucchiniinacolanderandtosswith1teaspoonsalt;letdrain10minutes.Pressoutasmuchliquidaspossiblewithawoodenspoonorflexiblespatula.

2.Whiskegginalargebowl;mixinzucchini,scallions,flour,and¼teaspoonpepperuntilcombined.Lineaplatewithpapertowels.

3.Heatoilinalargeskilletovermedium.Workinginbatches,dropsixmoundsofbatter(2tablespoonseach)intoskillet,thenflattenslightlywithbackofspoon.Cookuntilbrownedonfirstside,2to3minutes;flipfrittersandcookuntilbrownedonotherside,2to3minutesmore.Transfertothepaper-towel-linedplate;sprinklewithsalt.Servewithsourcream.

PastawithZucchini,Mint,andPecorinoYoucanneverhaveenoughrecipesforzucchiniduringthesummer,especiallyifyougrowyourownorbelongtoaCSAgroup—thisisonevegetablethatflourishesin

abundance.Here,gratedzucchiniissautéedwithafewanchoviesuntiltender,thentossedwithaldentepastaandsomeofitscookingwater.FreshmintandsharpPecorino

Romanoaddflavorfulfinishes.

SERVES4

ouncesshortcurlypasta,suchasgemelliorfusilli

tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil,plusmorefordrizzling

anchovyfillets,preferablyoil-packed,rinsedandpatteddry

garliccloves,minced

poundszucchini(about5small),coarselygrated

teaspoonred-pepperflakes,plusmoreforserving

cupfinelygratedPecorinoRomanocheese,plusmoreforservingcuplightlypackedfreshmintleaves,chopped,plusmorewholeleavesforserving1.Cookpastainalargepotofgenerouslysaltedboilingwateruntilaldente,accordingtopackageinstructions.Reserve1½cupswater;drainpasta.

2.Heatalargeskilletovermediumhigh.Addoilandswirltocoat.Cookanchoviesandgarlic,stirring,justuntilanchoviesbreakdownandgarlicturnsgolden,about30seconds.Addzucchiniandred-pepperflakes;seasonwithsalt.Cook,stirringoccasionally,untilzucchiniistender,about5minutes.Addpastaand1cupreservedpastawater.Simmer,stirringoccasionally,untilliquidisreducedandslightlythickened,1to2minutes.

3.Removefromheat;stirincheeseandmint.Addmorepastawaterifneeded,afewtablespoonsatatime,untilsauceevenlycoatspasta.Serveimmediately,drizzledwithoilandsprinkledwithmint,blackpepper,red-pepperflakes,andcheese.

Coarselygratingzucchini,ratherthanslicingorchoppingit,helpsmakesurethevegetableisevenlydistributedwhentossedwiththepasta.Unlikeforfritters,youdon’thavetosaltanddrainthezucchinifirst,sinceheretheextramoistureisaplus.

ZucchiniQuickBreadZucchini’snaturalwatercontentmakesitanassetwhenbakingcakeandquickbreads,keepingthemexceptionallymoist.Thisno-mixerbatteriseasytowhisktogetherandisflavoredwithgroundcinnamon,vanilla,andchoppedwalnuts.Theadditionofwhole-

wheatflourandoliveoilmakestheseloavesmorewholesomethanthosemadewithonlyall-purposeflourandbutter.

MAKES2LOAVES

Unsaltedbutter,roomtemperature,forpans

cupsall-purposeflour,plusmoreforpans

cupswhole-wheatflour

tablespoonbakingpowder

teaspoonsalt

tablespoongroundcinnamon

cupssugar

largeeggs

cupsgratedzucchini

tablespoonpurevanillaextract

cupchoppedwalnuts

1.Preheatovento350°Fwithrackinthecenter.Buttertwo4½-by-8½-inchloafpans,thendustwithflour,tappingouttheexcess.Whisktogetherflours,bakingpowder,salt,andcinnamoninalargebowl.

2.Inanotherbowl,stirtogethersugar,oil,eggs,zucchini,andvanilla.Stirzucchinimixtureintoflourmixtureuntilwellblended.Foldinwalnuts.

3.Dividebatterbetweenpreparedpans.Bakeuntilacaketesterinsertedintomiddleofloavescomesoutclean,about40to50minutes.Letcoolinpansonawirerack15minutes,thenturnoutontoracksandletcool

completelybeforeserving.

TIPTheloaveswillkeepwellinthefreezerforseveralmonths;wraptightlyinplasticandstoreinsealablefreezerbags.

SkilletSteakPeperonataAsitsnamesuggests,peperonataisallaboutthepeppers.TomakethistraditionalSiciliansidedish,bellpeppersarestewedwithonionandgarlicuntiltender;the

sweetnessiskeptincheckbyasplashofred-winevinegar.Peperonataisoftenservedwithsteak,ashere(trythecombinationasasandwich,too),butalsowithsearedpork

chopsorsautéedfish,ortossedintosaladsandpastas.

SERVES4

onion,thinlysliced

garlicclove,minced

bellpeppers,ribsandseedsremoved,thinlysliced

sprigthyme

sprigrosemary

tablespoonsred-winevinegar

poundbonelesssirloinsteak(1inchthick)

1.Heat2tablespoonsoilinalargeskilletovermediumhigh.Addonionandgarlic,andcook,stirringoccasionally,untilonionturnsgoldenontheedges,about4minutes.Addbellpeppers,thyme,rosemary,red-pepperflakes,andvinegar;seasonwithsalt.Tosstocombine,thencoverandcook,stirringoccasionally,untilpeppersaretender,about30minutes.Transfertoabowl;covertokeepwarm.

2.Wipeoutskilletandheatremainingtablespoonoilovermediumhigh.Patsteakdryandseasononbothsideswithsaltandblackpepper.Cooksteakuntilbrownedonfirstside,3to4minutes.Turnsteakandbrownonsecondside,3to4minutesmoreformediumrare.Transfertoacutting

boardandletrest10minutes.

3.Slicesteakacrossthegrainintothinstripsandreturntoskillet;addpeperonata,tosstocombine,andserve.

PickledJalapeñosandCucumbersPickledjalapeñosareagreatwaytobringabitoffieryheattodishes,deliveredinacool,crunchypackage.Here,we’vecombinedthechileswithtwootherclassicpicklingvegetables,cucumbersandonions.Trythemwithnachos,tacos,chili,sandwiches,or

burgers.

MAKES2½QUARTS

poundsKirbycucumbers,sliced¼inchthick

redjalapeñochiles,sliced¼inchthick

smallonions,cutinto½-inchwedges

tablespoonscoarsesalt

cupsapplecidervinegar

cupslight-brownsugar

tablespoonyellowmustardseeds

teaspoonceleryseeds

teaspoongroundturmeric

1.Tosstogethercucumbers,jalapeños,onions,andsaltinabowl.Cover;refrigerate2hours.

2.Cookvinegar,sugar,mustardandceleryseeds,andturmericinasaucepanovermediumheat,stirringtodissolvesugar.Rinseanddraincucumbermixtureandplaceinabowl(ordivideamongjars).Pourvinegarmixtureovercucumbers;letcoolcompletely.Refrigerate,covered,upto3weeksbeforeserving.

BlisteredPadrónPepperswithSeaSaltIfyouspotthesebright-greenpeppersatthemarket,grabthem—they’reslightlylesssweetthangreenbellpeppersbuttakeonadelicious,smokyflavorwhencharredinanironskilletorunderthebroiler.Butbeforewarned:Whilemostaremild,oneortwoin

everytenpacksamouthfuloffieryflavor.

SERVES4

poundPadrónpeppers

Flakyseasalt,suchasMaldon

Heatoilinalarge,heavyskillet(preferablycastiron)overmediumhigh.Cookpeppersinasinglelayer,turning,untilblistered,about5minutes.Transfertoaplatter,sprinklewithseasalt,andserve.

Transfertoaplatter,sprinklewithseasalt,andserve.

Here’sadeliciouswaytousethelastoftheseason’scropofcherrytomatoes(orthoseavailableanytimeofyear):Roastthem,alongwithYukonGoldpotatoes,untiltheyaresoftenedandjuicy,andattheheightofsweetness.Thencontinuetocookthemtoppedwithtwowholetrout;thejuicesfromthefishwillflavorthevegetables,whichinturn

contributemoistnesstothefish.It’sawin-winproposition.

SERVES4

YukonGoldpotatoes,scrubbedandthinlysliced

garlicclove,smashed

tablespoonchoppedfreshoreganoleaves

tablespoonplus1teaspoonoliveoil

ouncescherrytomatoes,brokenintosmallerclustersifonthevineCoarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper

wholetrout(about9ounceseach),scaled,gutted,andcleaned

thinlemonslices(from1lemon)

1.Preheatovento425°F.Tosstogetherpotatoes,garlic,oregano,and1tablespoonoilinabowl,andseasonwithsaltandpepper.Arrangepotatoesina9-by-13-inchbakingdish,overlappingthem;topwithtomatoes.

2.Roastuntiltomatoesarejuicyandpotatoesaretender,about25minutes.Removefromoven.

3.Rubfishwithremainingteaspoonoil,dividingevenly.Seasoninsideandoutsideoffishwithsalt;stuffwithlemonslices.Arrangefishontopofpotatoes,shiftingtomatoesalongside.Roastuntilfishareopaquethroughoutandflakewithafork,about20minutes.Serveimmediately.

Zucchini“Pasta”PrimaveraCutintothinstripsandbrieflycooked,zucchinitakesonatexturethatmimicsaldentepasta.Here,thegluten-free“noodles”aretossedwithasauceofhalvedcherrytomatoes,capers,andgarlicthat’ssautéedforallofoneminute.Eachplateisgarnishedwiththe

flavorfulcomponentsofpesto:freshbasil,toastedpinenuts,andgratedParmesan.

SERVES4

pintcherrytomatoes,halved

tablespoonscapers,preferablysalt-packed,rinsedanddrained

largezucchini,cutlengthwiseintothinstrands

Pinenuts,toasted,forserving

Freshbasilleaves,forserving

1.Heatoilinalargeskilletovermediumhigh.Addtomatoes,capers,garlic,andred-pepperflakesandcook,stirringfrequently,untilheatedthrough,about1minute.Addzucchiniandcook,tossing,untiljusttender,1to2minutes.

2.Serveimmediately,toppedwithtoastedpinenuts,gratedcheese,andbasil.

TIPUseamandoline,juliennepeeler,orsharpknife—orideally,aspiralslicer—tomakethestrandsofzucchini.

RoastedBellPeppersBellpeppersundergoaparticularlydrastictransformationwhenroasted:Theonce-

crispfleshbecomeswonderfullytender,andtheskinsblisterandloosenforeasypeeling.Servethesedressedonesasasalad,orinsandwiches,pastadishes,andantipasti.

SERVES4

redbellpeppers

Extra-virginoliveoil

tablespooncapers,preferablysalt-packed,rinsedanddrained

cuppittedKalamataolives

teaspoonred-winevinegar

Lemonpeel,cutintofinejulienne

Freshbasilleaves,forserving

1.Heatbroilerwithrackintopposition.Placebellpeppersonaparchment-linedrimmedbakingsheet.Broil,turningoccasionally,untilcharredonallsidesandtender,about10minutes.Transfertoabowl,covertightlywithplasticwrap,andletsteam10minutes.Rubwithpapertowelstoremoveskin.Quartereachpepperlengthwiseandremoveribsandseeds.

2.Arrangepeppersonaservingplatter,drizzlewithoil,andtopwithcapers,olives,vinegar,andlemonstrips.Seasonwithsaltandpepper,sprinklewithbasil,andserve.

TIPAnalternativetobroilingpeppersistocharthemoveranopenflame(onthestoveoragrill)untilskinisblisteredandcharred.

TomatilloandChipotleSalsaTomatilloshaveatart,citrusyflavoralltheirown.They’realsomeatier(lesswatery)thantheirdistantrelative,thetomato.You’llfindtomatillos,rawandcooked,inmanyMexicandishes,mostcommonlyintheformofsalsa.Charringthefruit(andgarlic)

makesthissalsadistinctivelysmoky;addingchipotlesalsohelps.

SERVES4

tomatillos,husked,rinsed,andquartered

garliccloves(donotpeel)

cannedchipotlechilesinadobosauce,coarselychopped

teaspoonsugar

Coarsesalt

Cilantroleaves,forserving

Tortillachips,forserving

1.Workingintwobatchesifneeded,cooktomatillosandgarlicinalargeskillet(preferablycastiron)overmedium-highheat,turningoccasionally,untilcharredonallsides,15to20minutes.Transfertoaplate,andletcoolslightly.Thenpeelgarlic,andfinelychoptomatillosandgarlic.

2.Mixtomatillos,garlic,chipotles,andsugarinabowl,seasonwithsalt,andtopwithcilantro.Servewithtortillachips.

ChilesRellenosThelarge,thick-fleshedpoblanochilehasaniceamountofheat,butnottoomuch,and

anearthyflavor;italsoistherightsizeforstuffing,asinMexicanchilesrellenos.

SERVES6

poundsgroundchicken

whiteonion,chopped

garlicclove,minced

poundsplumtomatoes,seededanddiced

driedbayleaves

cupraisins

cupgreenolives,chopped

tablespoonscapers,rinsedanddrained

cupfinelychoppedcilantro,plussmallsprigsforserving

cupfinelychoppedflat-leafparsley

cupfinelychoppedmint

cupsliveredalmonds

Coarsesalt

freshpoblanochiles

Mexicancremaorsourcream,forserving

Limewedges,forserving

1.Heat2tablespoonsoilinalargeskilletovermediumhighuntilalmostsmoking.Addchicken;cook,stirringfrequently,untillightlybrownedandcookedthrough,about8minutes.Transfertoabowl.

2.Heatremaining2tablespoonsoilinsameskilletovermediumhigh.Cookonion,stirringoccasionally,untiltranslucent,2minutes.Addgarlic;cook,stirring,1minute.Addtomatoesandbayleaves,andreduceheatto

mediumlow;simmeruntiltomatoesaresoft,15minutes.

3.Stirinraisins,olives,andcapers;cook3minutes.Addchicken;cook5minutes.Stirinchoppedherbsandalmonds,andseasonwithsalt.Letcool.(Fillingmayberefrigeratedupto1dayinanairtightcontainer.Beforeusing,bringtoroomtemperature;discardbayleaves.)4.Preheatovento350°F.Roastpoblanosdirectlyovertheflameofagas-stoveburnerorunderabroiler,turningoftenwithtongs,untilcharredonallsides.Placeinabowl,coverwithplasticwrap,andletstandfor15minutes.Whencoolenoughtohandle,rubwithapapertoweltoremoveskins,beingcarefulnottotearflesh.Cutaslitdownthesideofeachpoblanofromstemtotip.Removeseeds,leavingstemintact.

5.Spoonfillingintoeachchile,dividingevenly;arrangeinabakingdish.Bakeuntilheatedthrough,15minutes.Serveimmediatelywithcrema,cilantrosprigs,andlimewedges.

Cucumber,Mango,andShrimpEscabèchePutthecoolingqualitiesofcucumbertoworkinaSpanishescabèche.Itrequires

minimalcooking—justaminuteortwotopoachtheshrimp;therestisamatteroflettingtheacidiclimejuiceinfusetheseafoodwithflavor.

SERVES4

poundshell-onlargeshrimp(16to20count)

cupplus3tablespoonsfreshlimejuice(from12limes)

Englishcucumber,cutintothinhalf-moons

cupchoppedpeeledmango

cupchoppedredonion

jalapenochile,finelychopped

cupplus3tablespoonschoppedfreshcilantro,plusmoreforservingCoarsesaltand

freshlygroundpepper

1.Prepareanice-waterbath.Bringalargepotofwatertoaboil.Reduceheattomedium;poachshrimpuntiljustopaquethroughout,1½to2minutes.Transfershrimptoicebathandletcoolcompletely.

2.Drainshrimp;peel,devein,andsliceinhalf.Tossshrimpwith½cuplimejuiceinanonreactivedish.Refrigerate,covered,2hours,stirringhalfwaythrough;drain.

3.Tosstogethershrimp,cucumber,mango,onion,jalapeno,cilantro,2tablespoonslimejuice,¾teaspoonsalt,andapinchofpepper.Refrigerate,30minutes.Stirinremainingtablespoonlimejuice,topwithcilantrosprigs,andserve.

ChilledMelon,Cucumber,andMintSoupThehighwatercontentandrefreshingflavorofcucumbersarejustrightformaking

chilledsoups.Thissoupcombinesseedlesscucumbers,honeydewmelon,limejuice,andfreshmint—allinlovelyshadesofgreen.Moremintissprinkledontop,andGreek

yogurtissmearedalongside.

SERVES8

Englishcucumbers

honeydewmelon,peeled,seeded,andcutinto1-inchchunks(8cups)to⅔cupfreshlimejuice(from10to12limes),pluswedgesforservingcuplightlypackedfreshmintleaves,plusmoreforserving

cupscrushedice

Coarsesalt

cupsplainGreekyogurt

Extra-virginoliveoil

1.Peel,halve,andseedcucumbers,thencoarselychop.(Youshouldhaveabout4½cups.)Workinginbatches,puréecucumbers,melon,½cuplimejuice,themint,andiceinafoodprocessororblender.Seasonwithsaltandmorelimejuice.Transfersouptoabowl,cover,andrefrigerateuntilreadytoserve,upto2hours.

2.Spoon¼cupyogurtintoeachbowl,smearingupsides.Spoonchilledsoupintobowls,drizzlewithoil,andtopwithmint.Servewithlimewedges.

StuffedTomatoeswithMozzarellaTomatoes,zucchini,andbellpeppersareperfectforstuffing.Oncethefleshandseeds

havebeenscoopedout,theremainingshellsarefirmenoughtoholdtheirshapeastheycook.Here,tomatoesarefilledwithsautéedcornandgreens(anyoftheonesinthe

Greenschapterwilldo),toastedbreadpieces,andmozzarella,whichmeltsandturnsdeliciouslygoldenunderthebroiler.

SERVES4

slicesrusticbread,tornintosmallpieces(about¾cup)

ripemediumtomatoes,halvedhorizontally

cupcornkernels(from1ear)

cupspackedchoppedgreens,suchasSwisschardorbeetgreens

ouncesfreshmozzarellacheese,sliced

1.Heatbroilerwithrack8inchesfromheatsource.Toastbreadonarimmedbakingsheet,tossingonce,untilcrisp,about2minutes.

2.Scoopoutseedsandfleshfromeachtomatointoabowl;reserve.Arrangetomatohalvesinabroiler-safebakingdish;seasonwithsaltandpepper.

3.Inalargeskillet,heat1tablespoonoilovermedium.Addred-pepperflakesandshallot;cook,stirringfrequently,untiljusttender,about2minutes.Increaseheattohigh;addreservedtomatofleshandjuice.Cook,stirring,untilreducedbyhalf,about2minutes.Addcornandgreens;cook,stirring,untilvegetablesaretender,about2minutes.Seasonwithsalt.

4.Filltomatohalveswithvegetablemixture,dividingevenly,thensprinkleeachhalfwithtoastedbread,drizzlewithremainingtablespoonoil,andtopwithmozzarella.Broiluntilcheeseisbubblyandgoldeninspots,about2minutes.Serveimmediately.

SalmonandAvocadoTartinesSERVES6TO8

cupplus¾teaspoonfreshlemonjuice

celerystalk

sprigsflat-leafparsley

Seasaltorcoarsesalt

wildsalmonfillet(about1poundand1inchthick),skinon

ripebutfirmavocado,halved,pitted,andpeeled

tablespoonwasabipowder,mixedwith1tablespoonlukewarmwaterwhole-grainbaguette

Radishorsunflowersprouts

1.Fillasaucepanwideenoughtoholdsalmonwith2½inchescoldwater.Stirin¼cuplemonjuice,thecelery,parsley,and2teaspoonssalt.Bringtoaboil;reduceheat.Addsalmon,skinsidedown.Cover;simmeruntiljustcookedthrough,10to12minutes.Transfertoaplate,andletcool20minutes.Discardpoachingliquid.Flakesalmonintolargepieces.

2.Pulseavocado,wasabi,andremaining¾teaspoonlemonjuiceuntilsmoothinafoodprocessor;seasonwithsalt.Transfertoabowl,andcovertightlywithplasticwrap,pressingdirectlyontosurface.Refrigerateupto30minutes.

3.Preheatovento425°F.Cutbaguetteinhalf,andcuteachhalflengthwiseintothree½-inch-thickslices.Arrange,flatsidedown,inasinglelayeronabakingsheet.Toastinovenuntillightlygolden,about7minutes.Letcool10minutes.Spreadeachslicewithabout2tablespoonsavocado-wasabimixture,andtopwithsalmonandsprouts.

PistachioGuacamoleGuacamoleisendlesslyadaptable—anduniversallyadored.Toastedpistachiosmaynotbethemostobviouschoice,buttheysupplyextrarichnessandcrunchtothesimple

blendofavocado,freshlimejuice,andsalt.Justaddcornchips.

SERVES8

cupshelledpistachios

ripeavocados,halved,pitted,andpeeled

tablespoonsfreshlimejuice(from2to3limes)

Coarsesalt

Tortillachips,forserving

1.Preheatovento350°F.Toastpistachiosonarimmedbakingsheetuntil

goldenandfragrant,stirringonceortwice,10to15minutes.Transfertoaplateandletcoolcompletely.Coarselychop.

2.Inabowl,mashavocadosandlimejuicetogetherwithafork.Foldinallbut3tablespoonschoppedpistachios;seasonwithsalt.Topwithremainingpistachiosandserveimmediatelywithtortillachips.

Roasted-TomatoHandPiesThefillingfortheseportabletartspacksanabundanceofflavor:Slicedtomatoesareroasteduntiltheirflavorsareconcentratedandthetomatoeshaveshedmuchoftheirmoisture(sothetartswon’tgetsoggy).Thisisagreatwaytopreparetomatoesevenifyoudon’tmakethetarts;storetheminanairtightcontainerintherefrigerator,coveredinaslickofoliveoil,thenbringtoroomtemperatureandserveoncrostini,burgers,or

pasta.

MAKES12

FORTHEDOUGH

cupsall-purposeflour,plusmorefordusting

teaspooncoarsesalt

cup(2sticks)coldunsaltedbutter,cutintosmallpieces

to½cupicewater

FORTHEFILLING

poundstomatoes,coredandsliced¼inchthickcrosswise

mediumonion,quarteredlengthwiseandthinlyslicedcrosswise

tablespoonsfinelychoppedfreshoregano,plussmallsprigsforserving(optional)cupchoppedpittedoil-curedblackolives

ouncesfetacheese,crumbled(¾cup)

largeeggyolk,lightlybeatenwith1tablespoonwater,foreggwash1.Makethedough:Pulsetogetherflourandsaltinafoodprocessoruntilcombined.Addbutter,andprocessuntilmixtureresemblescoarsemeal,about10seconds.Withmachinerunning,addjustenoughicewaterinaslow,steadystreamuntildoughjustcomestogether(nolongerthan30seconds).Dividedoughinhalf,shapeeachpieceintoasquare,andwrapinplastic.Refrigerateatleast1hourorupto2days(orfreezeupto1month;thawovernightinrefrigeratorbeforeusing).

2.Rolloutdoughonalightlyflouredsurfaceto⅛inchthick.Usingaparingknife,cutouttwelve4½-inchsquares,andfitintocupsofastandardmuffintin,leavinganoverhang.Chilluntilfirm,about30

minutes.

3.Makethefilling:Preheatovento400°F.Dividetomatoandonionslicesbetweentworimmedbakingsheets.Drizzlewithoil,seasonwithsaltandpepper,androast,rotatingsheetshalfwaythrough,untiltomatoesbegintoshrivelandonionslicesaregolden,about30minutes.Letcoolonsheets,thentransfertoabowl.

4.Preheatovenorlowertemperatureto375°F.Dividehalfthechoppedoregano,olives,andfetaamongthepastryshells.Topwithtomato-onionmixture,dividingevenly.Sprinklewithremainingoregano,olives,andfeta.Foldcornersofdoughtowardcenters.Brushwitheggwash.

5.Bakepiesuntilbubblingandtopcrustsaregolden,50to60minutes.Letcoolcompletelyintinonawirerackbeforeserving,withoreganosprigstuckedintopies,ifdesired.

ButternutSquashandTaleggioPizzaButternutsquashmakesadelicioustoppingfor“white”pizza,particularlywhen

combinedwithnuttyTaleggioandsharpParmigiano-Reggianocheeses(andlittleelse).

MAKES2PIES

FORTHEDOUGH

teaspoonsugar

cupwarmwater(about110°F)

cupsunbleachedall-purposeflour,plusmorefordusting

teaspooncoarsesalt

tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil,plusmoreforbowl

Finecornmeal,fordusting

FORTHETOPPINGS

poundsbutternutsquash,peeled,seeded,andcutinto½-inchdicecupplus2tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil

poundsTaleggiocheese

cupfreshthymeleaves

1.Inasmallbowl,sprinklesugarandyeastoverthewarmwater;stirwithaforkuntilyeastandsugardissolve.Letstanduntilfoamy,about5minutes.

2.Inafoodprocessor,pulsetogetherflourandsalt.Addyeastmixtureandoil;pulseuntilmixturecomestogetherbutisstillslightlytacky.(Doughshouldpullawaycleanlyfromyourfingersafterit’ssqueezed.)

Turnoutdoughontoalightlyflouredworksurface;kneadfourorfivetimes,toformasmoothball.Placeinalightlyoiledbowl,smoothsideup.Coverwithplasticwrap;letriseinawarmplaceuntildoubled,about40minutes.Punchdowndough.Folddoughbackontoitselffourorfivetimes,thenturnsmoothsideup.Replaceplastic;letdoughriseagaininawarmplaceuntildoubledinbulk,30to40minutes.

3.Punchdoughdownagain;turnoutontoalightlyflouredworksurface.Usingabenchscraperorknife,dividedoughintotwopieces.Kneadeachpiecefourorfivetimes,thenformasmoothball.Returnoneballtooiledbowl;coverwithplasticwrap.Patremainingballintoaflatteneddisk;coverwithplasticwrap,andletrest5minutes.Sprinklealargewoodenpeelwithcornmeal.Usingyourhandsorarollingpin,stretchorpressdoughintodesiredshape,workingfromcenteroutwardinalldirections.Transfertopreparedpeel.

4.Meanwhile,maketoppings:Preheatovento450°Fwitharackinlowestpositionandapizzastoneonrack.Tosssquashwith2tablespoonsoil,andseasonwithsaltandpepper.Spreadevenlyonarimmedbakingsheet,androast,tossingonceortwice,untiltender,about12minutes.Letcool.

5.Arrangehalfofsquashoveronepieceofdough,leavinga1-inchborder.DotwithhalfofTaleggio,squeezingitfromrindinto1-inchpiecesasyougo.Sprinklewithhalfofthyme,anddrizzlewith2tablespoonsoil.TopwithhalfofParmesan.

6.Slidepizzaontoheatedbakingstone.Bakeuntilcrustisgoldenbrownandcheeseismelted,15to18minutes.Meanwhile,repeattomakesecondpizzawithremainingingredients;bakewhenfirstpizzaisremovedfromoven.

RoastedAcornSquash,ThreeWaysThebeautyofroastedacornsquash,asopposedtobutternutorothertough-skinned

varieties,isthatyoucaneattheskin(whichcontainsmuchofthevegetable’snutrients,includingfiberandantioxidants).Italsotakeswelltoavarietyofflavors.

WITHSESAMESEEDSANDCUMIN

tablespoonssesameseeds

teaspoonscuminseeds

smallacornsquashes,halved,seeded,andcutinto1-inchwedgestablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil

teaspoongroundcoriander

1.Preheatovento400°F.Toastsesameseedsinaskilletovermedium-high,shakingpanfrequently,untilgoldenbrown,1to2minutes.Addcuminseedsandtoastuntilfragrant,30seconds.Transferseedstoabowl;letcool.

2.Tosssquasheswithoilandcoriander,andseasonwithsaltandpepperonarimmedbakingsheet.Roastinasinglelayer10minutes.Addseedsandtosstocoat,thenflipslices.Roastuntilsquashesaretenderandgoldenbrown,about15minutesmore;serve.

WITHBACONANDMAPLE

smallacornsquashes,halved,seeded,andcutinto1-inchwedgescuppuremaplesyrup

teaspooncayennepepper

Coarsesalt

thickslicesbacon,cutcrosswiseinto¼-inchpieces

1.Preheatovento400°F.Tosssquasheswithmaplesyrup,oil,andcayenneandseasonwithsaltonarimmedbakingsheet.

2.Roastinasinglelayer10minutes.Addbacon,thenflipsquashestocoat.Roast,flippingoncemorehalfwaythrough,untiltenderandgoldenbrown,about20minutesmore;serve.

WITHORANGEANDSAGE

smallacornsquashes,halved,seeded,andcutinto1-inchwedgestablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil

Coarsesalt

tablespoonspackedthinlyslicedfreshsageorwholesmallsageleavescupfinelygratedParmigiano-Reggianocheese(1½ounces)

stripsorangepeel,cutintofinejulienne(¼cup)

1.Preheatovento400°F.Tosssquasheswithoilandseasonwithsaltonarimmedbakingsheet.

2.Roastinasinglelayer10minutes.Addsage,cheese,andorangeandtosstocoat,thenflipslices.Roastuntilsquashesaretenderandgoldenbrown,about15minutesmore;serve.

ButternutSquashandKaleHashInthisskilletsupper,butternutsquashisroastedwithcarrots,thenmixedwithkaleandroasteduntilthat’stender.Finally,thevegetablesaretoppedwitheggs,whichbakeuntilset.Thekeyistocooktheeggsjustuntilthewhitesaresetbuttheyolksarestillrunny,sotheyforma“sauce”thatbringsthewholedishtogetherinthemostdeliciousmanner.

SERVES4

cupcoarselychoppedfreshcilantro

garliccloves,minced

mediumbutternutsquashor1acornsquash,halved,seeded,peeled,andcutinto½-inchpieces(3½cups)ouncescarrots,peeledandcutinto½-inchpieces(1½cups)

smallbunchkale,stemstrimmedandleavescoarselychopped(2cupspacked)largeeggs

1.Preheatovento425°F.Inasmallbowl,whisktogether¼cupplus2tablespoonsoil,thelemonjuice,andcilantro,thenseasonwithsaltandpepper.

2.Heatremaining2tablespoonsoilinalargestraight-sidedovenproofskillet(preferablycastiron)overmediumhigh.Addonionandgarlic,andcook,stirringoccasionally,untilsoftened,about3minutes.

3.Addsquashandcarrots,seasonwithsaltandpepper,andtransfertooven.Roast,stirringonce,untilgoldenandtender,20to25minutes.

4.Stirkaleintosquashmixture,alongwith¼cupcilantromixture.Returntoovenandbakeuntilkaleiswilted,about8minutes.

5.Makefourwellsinvegetablesandcrackaneggintoeach.Seasoneggs

withsalt.Returntoovenandbakeuntilwhitesaresetbutyolksarestillrunny,4to6minutes.Serve,drizzledwithmorecilantrodressing.

KERNELS

Sweetcornisasdemocraticavegetableasthereis.Itrewardsthosewhoprefer cheap-and-easy preparations with as lavish a show of flavor asthosewhofussandfretoverit.Boilitandslapitwithbutterandsalt,anditbecomesasubstantialsidedishorsnack.Butyoucanjustaswelldressitupforcompanybyfoldingitintoasavorypuddingortransformingitintoalusciousicecreamfordessert.

Nordoescorn’sversatilityendwiththesummertimekitchen.Wealsoeatthis so-called vegetable as a grain—think cornmeal and corn flour—inbreads, tortillas, grits, polenta, and muffins. Similarly, it turns up incornstarch, corn syrup, corn oil, andwhiskey. And, of course, there arevarietiesgrownspecificallyformakingpopcorn.

Soperhaps it should comeasno surprise to learn that thismultifacetedvegetable/grain is actually neither, but instead is a fruit. In fact, eachlittlekernel isanindividualfruitsurroundingafairlylargeseed.Whenyoung,theserelativelytough-skinnedlittlefruitsfillupwithsugarsandjuices,aswellasasmoothmilkysubstancethatallowsthemtogivewaywith apop of sweet creamy flavorwhenyoubite into them,nomatterhowthey’reprepared.

THEBASICS

SEASONALITYSweetcornisasummercrop,plainandsimple.Earssoldatothertimesofyearhavegenerallybeenhybridized,geneticallymodified,traveledlongdistances—orallthree.Intheoff-season,optforfrozencorn—it’sadecentalternativeinanyrecipe,andbetterthancornfromacan.

BUYINGWithcorn,thefamiliarexhortationtobuyfromfarmstandsisespeciallyworthheeding.That’snotjustbecausegoodsweetcornshouldtravelminimaltimeanddistancefromwhereitwaspicked,butalsobecausecornhidesitsage.Evenifyoupeelbackthehusk(orthepurveyordoes),youcan’teasilyseewhetherthesugarsinsideeachkernelhaveturnedtostarch.Abettertestforfreshnessistolookatthehuskitself(itshouldlookgreenandclingtotheear),examinethestemend(freshandpale),andthesilksatthetip(glossywheretheyemergefromthehuskandneverdriedoutorbrown).Manyshoppersshunearswithimmaturekernelsatthetips,butyouneedn’t:Therestoftheearwillbeespeciallyyoung,tender,andsweet.

NOTABLEVARIETIESSweetervarietiesincludeBreeder’sChoice,KandyKorn,EarlyXtraSweet,Sweetie,andSuper-SweetJubliee.Therearemanybicolor(whiteandyellow)varieties,includingButter&SugarandConcord;whitecorn,whichisverysweetandtender,includesSilverQueen,BooneCountyWhiteCorn,andHowSweetItIs.Peruvianpurplecorn(alsocalledbluecorn),BlackAztecCorn,BloodyButcherCorn,andCalicoCorn(multicoloredcobs)areallcolorfulvarietiesthatarecultivatedforeatingaswellasdryingfordecorations.

STORINGThetrickwithstoringfreshearsofcornis:Don’t—atleastnotforlong.Placeearsin

aplasticorpaperbaginthecrisperdrawerofyourrefrigeratorfornomorethanadayorso.Ifyouwanttosavefreshcornforlater,huskandremovethesilks,slicekernelsoffthecob,thenfreezeinaheavy-dutysealablebag.Tofreezecookedcorn,blanchshuckedearsinapotofboilingwaterfor4minutes,thendrainandpatdry.Whencoolenoughtohandle,shaveoffkernelsandfreezeinsealableplasticbags(squeezeoutexcessairbeforesealing),upto6monthsorlonger.

PREPPINGIfyouplantoboilcorn,removethehusksandsilksimmediatelyprior.Ifyouwanttogrillit,manyexpertswilltellyoutopeelbackthehuskandremovethesilksfirst,thenwrapthehuskbackaroundtheear,butthat’squiteunnecessary:thesilks—soirritatingtopickawaywhenraw—sliprightoffoncetheearisgrilled(orovenroasted).Toremovethekernelsfromthecob,standthecobonitsbroaderendonacuttingboard,holdthetipwithonehand,andusingasharpknife,slicedownwardtowardthebaseofthekernels,rotatingthecobasyougo.Thenfliptheknifearoundandusethebackedgetoscrapethemilkfromthecob,ifdesired.

COOKINGSweetcornisheavenlywhenit’slightlyboiledorsteamed.(Whichmethodyoupreferdependslargelyonwhatyougrewupdoing,astheresultsareverysimilar.Butadvocatesofsteamingsaythismethodpreservestheflavorbetter.)Youcanalsothrowthecornonahotgrill,huskandall.Thecookingtimeswilldependonthefreshness:Totest,poparawkernelinyourmouth—thefreshoneswillpopbetweenyourteeth,releasingasweet,fragrantmilk;olderoneswillhaveaslightpopcornmealinessthatwilldisappearduringcooking.Rawkernelscanbesautéedinbutteroroilorpan-roastedinadryskillet(togivethemanicesmokychar),andthenaddedtograinandvegetabledishes,ormixedintosoups.Grilledkernelscanalsobecutfromthecobandtossedintosaladsandsalsas.

HOWTOBOILShuckearsandcookinalargepotofsaltedboilingwateruntilkernelsareknife-tender,2to6minutesdependingonfreshness.Servewithsoftenedbutterandchoppedfreshherbs(orcombinedinacompoundbutter).

HOWTOSTEAMShuckearsandplace,stemendsdown,inapot(orinapastainsertsetinpot)filled

Shuckearsandplace,stemendsdown,inapot(orinapastainsertsetinpot)filledwith2inchesofboilingwater.Coverandsteamuntilkernelsareknife-tender,2to6minutes.

HOWTOSAUTÉShuckearsandsliceoffkernels.Meltbutterinalargeskillet.Addcorn,seasonwithsaltandpepper,andcookovermedium-highheat,stirringoccasionally,untiltenderandgoldenbrown,8to10minutes.

HOWTOPAN-ROASTHeatacast-ironskilletovermediumhigh.Cookcornkernelsinadryskillet,stirringoccasionally,untilbrowned,3to5minutes.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.Thisgivesthekernelsanicesmokiness(similartogrilling).

HOWTOROASTRoastunshuckedcorndirectlyontheracksofa400°Fovenfor30minutes.Thehuskswillsliprightoff—silksandall—andthekernelswillbeperfectlytenderandgreatforslicingintosalads,salsas,andpastas,or,ofcourse,eatingstraightoffthecob.

FLAVORPAIRINGSButterandsaltaretheclassics,andanearofgoodsummercornneedsnothingmore.Recipesmightunderscorecorn’ssweetcreamyside,pairingitwithcheese,cream,andpotatoes,orcontrastitwithbright,hotoracidicflavors,suchastomatoes,peppers,chiles,andlime—which,likecorn,originatedinCentralAmerica,asdidblackbeans,anothernaturalpartner.Asforherbs,cornlikesthemallbuthasaspecialaffinityforbasil,lemongrass,cilantro,chives,andthyme.

THERECIPES

GrilledCorn,withThreeToppings

CornandScallionChilaquiles

CornSoup

HatchChileCornPudding

CornmealShortcakeswithCornIceCreamandBlueberryCompote

GrilledCorn,withThreeToppingsAsidefromboilingorsteaming,afavoritewaytoenjoycornistogrillit,thensmotheritwithflavorfultoppings.Aslongasyou’regrillingtherestofthemeal,youmayas

wellgrillthecorn,too.WetookinspirationfromwildlypopularMexicangrilledcorntocomeupwiththreetopping

combinations:sesame,ginger,andjalapeño;chilipowderandfreshlimejuice;andcrispedbacon,oregano,and

mayonnaise.Saffloweroil,forgrill

earscorn,shucked

Toppingofchoice(seebelow)

Heatagrillorgrillpanovermediumhigh.Brushhotgrateswithoil.Grillcorn,turningoccasionallywithtongs,untilkernelsarejusttenderwhenpressedandcharredinspots,about20minutes.Transfercorntoaplatter;whilestillwarm,topasdesired.

SESAME,GINGER,ANDJALAPEÑO

ANDJALAPEÑO

Combine2tablespoonstoastedsesameoil,½teaspoonfinelygratedpeeledfreshginger,½teaspoonmincedseededjalapenochile,and2teaspoonschoppedfreshcilantro;seasonwithsaltandpepper.Transfergrilledcorntoaplatter.Dividingevenly,spreadmixtureovergrilledcobs,sprinklewith2teaspoonssesameseeds,andserve.

CHILIPOWDERANDLIME

Dividingevenly,squeeze½limeovercorn,thensprinklewith1teaspoonchilipowderand1¼teaspoonssalt,andserve.

BACON,MAYONNAISE,ANDOREGANO

Cook4slicesbaconinaskilletovermediumheat,turningoccasionally,untilcrispandfathasbeenrendered,about8minutes.Dividingevenly,spread½cupmayonnaiseovercorn,thensprinklewithcrumbledbacon,freshoreganoleaves,andfinelygratedParmigiano-Reggianocheese.Seasonwithsaltandpepperandserve.

TIPIfyouleavethemintheirhusks(withthesilksremoved),thecornwillessentiallysteam;weshucktheearsandplacethemdirectlyonthehotgrates,andtheytakeonthatcharacteristicsmokyflavor,aswellasgainafewcharredspots.

16½2½

CornandScallionChilaquilesHere’safantasticbrunchcasserolethatisalsoagreatshowcaseforcorn-off-the-cob.

Chilaquileswascreatedasawaytouseleftovers(tortillas,chicken,corn,andsuch),andyoucanadaptthisrecipe

accordingtowhat’sinyourrefrigerator.TheusualMexicanaccompanimentsare

servedalongside:cilantro,avocado,tomatoes,andmorecrumbledcornchips.

SERVES6

tablespoonunsaltedbutterscallions(whiteandpale-greenpartsonly),finelychopped(about¼cup)jalapenochile,minced(removeribsandseedsforlessheat)cupscornkernels(from3to4ears)Coarsesalt

largeeggs

cupsbrokentortillachips,pluswholechipsforservingcupcrumbledorgratedcotijaorquesofrescocheeseCilantrosprigs,slicedavocado,andcherrytomatoes,forserving1.Heatbroilerwithrackintopthird.Meltbutterinalargeskilletovermedium-highheat.Cookscallionsandchile,stirringconstantly,1minute.Addcorn,seasonwithsalt,andcook,stirring,1minute.

2.Whisktogethereggsinalargebowlandstirinbrokenchips.Addtoskilletandcook,stirring,untilbottomstartstosetbutisstillwet,about1minute.Stirandtransfertoabroilerproof8-by-11½-inchbakingdish;broiluntileggsareset,about2minutes.Scattercheeseontopandletstand10minutesbeforeservingwithcilantrosprigs,wholechips(tuck

someintothetop),avocado,andtomatoes.

TIPIfyoucan’tfindcotijaorquesofresco,youcansubstitutefeta,Parmesan,orricottasalata.

CornSoupWe’refondofcornsoup,asdemonstratedbythemanyrecipeswe’vepublishedovertheyears.ThiscreamyversionisadaptedfromfoodwriterandcookbookauthorEugenia

Bone;itwasfeaturedinamagazinestoryaboutpreservingsummerproduce.

SERVES4

earscorn,shucked

driedbayleaf

mediumonion,halved,plus1½cupschoppedonionthymesprigs

tablespoonslightvegetableoil,suchasgrapeseedgarliccloves,minced

cupshalf-and-half

slicesbacon,cookedandchopped,forservingSlicedscallion,forserving

1.Slicekernelsfrom3earscorn;setaside.Inalargepot,bringremaining6earsofcorn,thebayleaf,halvedonion,thyme,andenoughwatertocover(about2quarts)toaboil.Reduceheat,cover,andsimmer30minutes.Strainmixturethroughafine-meshsieveintoabowl(youshouldhave1quartcornbroth;ifnot,addwater).

2.Wipepotclean.Heatoilinapotovermedium.Cookchoppedonionandgarlic,stirringfrequently,untiltranslucent,about5minutes.Stirinreservedcornkernels;cook2minutes.Addcornbroth;simmeruntilreducedbyhalf.Addhalf-and-half,andreturnjusttoasimmer.Puréehalfthesoupinablenderuntilsmooth.(Forsafety,removecapfromholeinlid;coverwithadishtoweltopreventspattering.)Returntopot,warmthrough,andseasonwithsaltandpepper.Servetoppedwithbacon,scallion,andpepper.

HatchChileCornPuddingThispuddinggetsakickfromthegreenchiles

harvestedinNewMexico’sHatchValley,alongtheRioGrande,andrichnessfrom

MontereyJackrunningthroughthecustardbase.

SERVES8

cupscornkernels(from6ears)teaspooncoarsesalt

scallions,thinlyslicedcan(14ounces)Hatchgreenchiles,dicedtablespoonsall-

purposeflourcupsgratedMontereyJackcheese(6ounces)largeeggs,roomtemperaturecupheavycream

tablespoonsunsaltedbutter1.Preheatovento350°F.Purée3cupscornkernelsinafoodprocessor.Transfertoalargebowl,andstirinremainingcupofcorn,thesalt,scallions,chiles,flour,and⅓cupcheese.Inaseparatebowl,whisktogethereggsandcreamjustuntilcombined.Stirintocornmixture.

2.Placebutterinan8-inchsquarebakingdish,andheatinovenuntilbutterismelted,about10minutes.Removefromoven;pourbatterintodish,andsprinkletopwithremaining1⅔cupscheese.Placeabakingsheetonlowerracktocatchanydrips.Returnbakingdishtoovenandbakeuntilpuffedandbubblingandcheeseisgoldenbrown,45to50minutes.Letcool30minutesbeforeserving.

1¼1¾

CornmealShortcakeswithCornIceCreamandBlueberryCompoteSERVES

FORTHEICECREAM

earscorn,shucked

cupswholemilk

cupsheavycream

cupgranulatedsugar

teaspooncoarsesalt

largeeggyolks

FORTHESHORTCAKES(MAKES10)

cupsall-purposeflour,plusmorefordustingcupcakeflour(notself-rising)cupfinecornmeal

tablespoonbakingpowderteaspoonbakingsoda

tablespoonsplus1teaspoongranulatedsugarteaspoonscoarsesalt

cup(2sticks)coldunsaltedbutter,cutintosmallpiecescupsbuttermilk

Heavycream,forbrushing

Coarsesandingsugar,forsprinkling

FORTHEBLUEBERRYCOMPOTE

cupsblueberries(6ounces)cupgranulatedsugar

tablespoonswater

tablespoonsfreshlemonjuice1.Maketheicecream:Slicekernelsfromcobs;transfertoasaucepan.Breakcobsinhalf;addtosaucepan.Stirinmilk,cream,½cupgranulatedsugar,andthesalt.Bringtoaboil.Letcool;discardcobs.Workinginbatches,puréecornmixtureinablenderuntilsmooth.(Forsafety,removecapfromholeinlid,andcoverwithadishtoweltopreventspattering.)Returnmixturetosaucepan,andbringtoasimmerovermediumheat.Removefromheat.

2.Meanwhile,prepareanice-waterbath.Whisktogethereggyolksandremaining¼cupgranulatedsugarinabowl.Whisk1cupcornmixture

intoyolks;returntosaucepanwithcustard.Cookovermediumlow,whisking,untilcustardthickensandcoatsbackofaspoon,about10minutes.

3.Straincustardthroughasieveintoabowl,pressingonsolids;discardsolids.Transferbowltoicebath,andstiruntilchilled.Refrigerateatleast1hourorupto1day.Freezeinanicecreammaker.Transfertoanairtightcontainer,andfreezeuntilfirm,atleast3hoursorupto3months.

4.Maketheshortcakes:Preheatovento400°F.Sifttogetherflours,cornmeal,bakingpowder,bakingsoda,granulatedsugar,andsalttwiceintoabowl.Cutinbutterusingapastryblenderuntilsmallclumpsform.Makeawellinthecenter,andpourinbuttermilk.Stiruntiljustcombined(donotovermix).Turnoutdoughontoagenerouslyflouredsurface,andfoldoverontoitselfthreeorfourtimes.Rolloutdoughtoa1-inchthickness.Cutoutroundsusinga3-inchbiscuitcutter;transfertoaparchment-linedbakingsheet.Gatherscrapsandrepeatonce.Brushshortcakeswithheavycream,andsprinklewithsandingsugar.Bakeuntilgoldenbrown,18to20minutes.Coolcompletelyonawirerack.

5.Makethecompote:Bring1cupblueberries,sugar,thewater,andlemonjuicetoasimmerinasaucepanovermediumheat.Cookuntilberriesburst,about5minutes.Stirinremaining½cupblueberries.Letcoolcompletely.

6.Toserve,splitshortcakesinhalfandsandwicheachwithblueberrycompoteandicecream.

PHOTOCREDITS

AllphotographsbyNgocMinhNgoexcept:

ChristopherBaker3.1

HallieBurton2.1

ChrisCourt3.2

JosephDeLeo9.1

BryanGardner4.1,4.2,4.3,8.1

JonathanLovekin1.3,8.2,8.3,8.4,10.1

DavidMalosh2.2,4.4,4.5,10.2

JohnnyMiller1.1,2.3,3.3,4.6,6.1,8.5,11.1

MarcusNilsson2.4,3.4,4.7,10.3,10.4

JohnvonPamer2.5

ConPoulos9.2

DavidPrince10.6

LindaPugliese10.5

MariaRobledo2.6

ChristopherTestani2.7

JonnyValiant1.2,1.4,2.8,9.3

AnnaWilliams3.5,4.7,4.8

RomuloYanes2.9,5.1,5.2,5.3,9.4

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

AtMarthaStewartLiving,welovevegetablesinallforms,colors,shapes,andsizes.Soit’shardtobelievethatthisisthefirstbook(ofmorethan85!)devotedexclusivelytooneofourfavoritesubjects.

WeareespeciallythankfultoeditorsEllenMorrissey,SusanneRuppert,andEvelynBattaglia,writerCeliaBarbour,andinternAvaPollack.AbigthankyouaswelltodesignersMicheleOutlandandJenniferWagner,andthosewhoproducedthenewphotography,includingfoodstylistFrancesBoswell,propstylistsAyeshaPatelandTanyaGraff,andassistantsDeniseGinley,SarahVasil,andOliviaBloch.WearegratefultophotographerNgocMinhNgo,andherassistantsKendallMillsandLorieReilly.Alistoftheotherphotographerswhoseworkgracesthesepagesappearsopposite.Asalways,wethankourimagingteam,includingDeniseClappi,AlisonVanekDevine,andJohnMyers.

Thankyoutothemanyfoodeditorswhoserecipesgracethesepages,mostnotablyJenniferAaronson,ShiraBocar,SarahCarey,AnnaKovel,GregLofts,LauraRege,LaurynTyrell,andLucindaScalaQuinn.AndthanksaswelltoCaitlinBrown,JosefaPalacios,GertrudePorter,LindsayStrand,andKavitaThirupuvanamfortheirkitchenassistance.

WeappreciatetheeffortsofourpublishingpartnersatClarksonPotter,particularlythesalesforcewhoplacesourbookswiththebooksellers,andthosewhohelpwiththeproductionandcreationofthisandallofourtitles,includingDorisCooper,DebbieGlasserman,LinneaKnollmueller,MayaMavjee,MarkMcCauslin,AshleyMeyer,MarysarahQuinn,KelliTokos,KateTyler,andAaronWehner.

ABOUTTHEAUTHOR

MarthaStewartisAmerica’smosttrustedlifestyleexpertandteacher.Herfirstbook,Entertaining,waspublishedin1982,andsincethenshehasauthoreddozensofbestsellingbooksoncooking,gardening,weddings,homekeeping,anddecorating,includingMarthaStewart’sBakingHandbook,MarthaStewart’sEncyclopediaofCrafts,MarthaStewart’sCookingSchool,Martha’sAmericanFood,OnePot,CleanSlate,and MarthaStewart’sAppetizers.

MarthaStewarthasbeenwidelyrecognizedbythemediaindustryforaward-winningcontent,includingnumerousnationalmagazineawards,multipleASMEawardsforexcellenceindesignandphotography,nineteenEmmys,threeJamesBeardAwards,andseveralWebbyAwards.

A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W XY Z

Almond(s)Celery,andCilantroSalad,5.1,photoGazpachoAjoBlanco,1.1,photo

Apple(s)-RutabagaMash,2.1,photoandSweetPotatoes,RoastedPorkChopswith,photo,3.2

Artichoke(s)Asparagus,andFarroSalad,5.1,photoandAsparagus,NasturtiumSaladwith,9.1,photoBaby,Oven-Fried,9.1,photo

ArugulaandEdibleFlowers,GoatCheesewith,9.1,photoandFigCrostini,8.1,photoandStoneFruitSaladwithBalsamicLambChops,8.1,photo

AsparagusArtichoke,andFarroSalad,5.1,photoandArtichokes,NasturtiumSaladwith,9.1,photoEgg,andMushroomStir-Fry,photo,5.2notablevarietiesandPotatoFlatbread,5.1,photoSteamed,ThreeWays,5.1,photoandWatercressPizza,photo,8.2

Avocado(s)

Avocado(s)-and-SproutClubSandwiches,7.1,photoandKaleSaladwithDates,4.1,photonotablevarietiesPistachioGuacamole,10.1,photoandSalmonTartines,10.1,photo

Bean(s)Cranberry,SaladwithDelicataSquashandBroccoliRabe,6.1,photoandEscaroleSoup,8.1,photoFava,Creamy,6.1,photoFava,Grilled,6.1,photoGardenGreenswithChoppedEggs,8.1,photoGreen,andWatercressSalad,6.1,photoGreen,ShellBean,andSweetOnionFattoush,6.1,photoGreen,Tempura,6.1,photogreenandwax,notablevarietiesQuick-PickledPods,photo,6.2shell,notablevarietiesSkilletEdamame,Corn,andTomatoeswithBasilOil,6.1,photoStuffedCollardGreens,4.1,photoWax,Roasted,withPeanutsandCilantro,6.1,photoWhite,withDandelionGreensandCrostini,photo,6.2

BeefBrisketwithParsnipsandCarrots,photo,2.2LacqueredShortRibswithCeleryRootPurée,2.1,photoMiniAsianMeatballsinLettuceCups,photo,8.2SkilletSteakPeperonata,10.1,photoandSnap-PeaStir-Fry,6.1,photo

Beet(s)

notablevarietiesandPotato,Roasted,Borscht,photo,2.2RisottowithBeetGreens,2.1,photoSaladwithGingerDressing,2.1,photo

BlackBass,Steamed,withGingerandScallions,photo,1.2BokChoy

Baby,withChile,Garlic,andGinger,4.1,photonotablevarietiesSaladwithCashews,4.1,photo

BreadPuddingHerb-and-Scallion,1.1,photoSpinachandFontinaStrata,photo,8.2

BreadsAsparagusandPotatoFlatbread,5.1,photoFigandArugulaCrostini,8.1,photoGarlic-ScapeToasts,1.1,photoGazpachoAjoBlanco,1.1,photoPotatoDinnerRolls,photo,3.2RadishTartine,2.1,photoSalmonandAvocadoTartines,10.1,photoSweetPotatoYeastedRolls,3.1,photoZucchiniQuick,photo,10.2

BroccoliRoasted,withGratedManchego,9.1,photoShrimp,andShiitakeStir-Fry,9.1,photo

BroccoliRabeandDelicataSquash,CranberryBeanSaladwith,6.1,photoandHamCroqueMonsieurs,4.1,photoandTomatoes,Orecchiettewith,photo,4.2

BrusselsSprout(s)BraisedChickenand,photo,9.2Gratin,Smoky,9.1,photo

Leaves,Crisped,9.1,photoandRutabaga,Roasted,2.1,photoSwissChard,andCabbageSalad,4.1,photo

Bulbs,basicsofBurgers,Green-Pea,withHarissaMayo,photo,6.2Butter,Green-Garlic,1.1,photo

CabbageGreen,Creamed,8.1,photonotablevarietiesRed,Braised,8.1,photoShreddedNapa,Salad,8.1,photoSwissChard,andBrusselsSproutsSalad,4.1,photo

Carrot(s)andChard,Rainbow,2.1,photoFries,2.1,photoMoroccanVegetableSoup,2.1,photonotablevarietiesandParsnips,Brisketwith,photo,2.2Roasted,andQuinoawithMisoDressing,photo,2.2Slaw,Sesame,2.1,photoSoup,Spicy,2.1,photo

CauliflowerCapers,andLemon,Bucatiniwith,9.1,photoandCapers,BroiledStripedBasswith,photo,9.2Roasted,withHerbSauce,9.1,photo

CeleryBraised,5.1,photoCilantro,andAlmondSalad,5.1,photo

notablevarietiesCeleryRoot

andPotatoRösti,2.1,photoPurée,LacqueredShortRibswith,2.1,photo

ChardnotablevarietiesRainbow,andCarrots,2.1,photoSwiss,Cabbage,andBrusselsSproutsSalad,4.1,photoSwiss,Lasagna,photo,4.2-TomatoSauté,4.1,photo

CheeseBroccoliRabeandHamCroqueMonsieurs,4.1,photoButternutSquashandTaleggioPizza,10.1,photoFree-FormLasagnawithEdibleWeeds,photo,8.2Goat,withEdibleFlowersandArugula,9.1,photoHatchChileCornPudding,11.1,photoKale-RicottaDip,4.1,photoRoastedBroccoliwithGratedManchego,9.1,photoSkilletPizzawithGreensandEggplant,photo,4.2SmokyBrusselsSproutsGratin,9.1,photoSpinachandFontinaStrata,photo,8.2StuffedTomatoeswithMozzarella,10.1,photoSwissChardLasagna,photo,4.2Tartiflette,3.1,photoWatercressandAsparagusPizza,photo,8.2

ChickenandBrusselsSprouts,Braised,photo,9.2ChilesRellenos,10.1,photoFried,withPuntarelleSalad,8.1,photoandLeeks,Normandy-Style,withCrèmeFraîche,photo,1.2Roast,withOnions,Shallots,Garlic,andScapes,photo,1.2

Chicories,notablevarieties

ChiveBlossoms,Capelliniwith,9.1,photoChutney,Rhubarb,withPorkRoast,5.1,photoCilantro,Celery,andAlmondSalad,5.1,photoClamPanRoastwithFennelandSausage,photo,5.2CollardGreens

FriedRicewith,photo,4.2Stuffed,4.1,photo

CornbasicsofEdamame,andTomatoes,Skillet,withBasilOil,6.1,photoGrilled,withThreeToppings,11.1,photoIceCreamandBlueberryCompote,CornmealShortcakeswith,11.1,photonotablevarietiesPudding,HatchChile,11.1,photoandScallionChilaquiles,photo,11.2Soup,11.1,photoStuffedTomatoeswithMozzarella,10.1,photo

Cucumber(s)andJalapeños,Pickled,10.1,photoMango,andShrimpEscabèche,10.1,photoMelon,andMintSoup,Chilled,10.1,photonotablevarieties

Cupcakes,SpicedParsnip,withCreamCheeseFrosting,2.1,photo

DandelionGreensandCrostini,WhiteBeanswith,photo,6.2Dips

Kale-Ricotta,4.1,photoPistachioGuacamole,10.1,photoTomatilloandChipotleSalsa,10.1,photo

Dressing,CreamyGarlic,Parsley,andFeta,1.1,photo

EggplantBlistered,withTomatoes,Olives,andFeta,10.1,photoBreaded,withArugulaandParmesan,photo,10.2andGreens,SkilletPizzawith,photo,4.2Miso,10.1,photonotablevarieties

Egg(s)Asparagus,andMushroomStir-Fry,photo,5.2Chopped,GardenGreenswith,8.1,photoCornandScallionChilaquiles,photo,11.2FiddleheadandPotatoHashwith,photo,7.2PadThai,photo,7.2PastaCarbonarawithLeeksandLemon,1.1,photoSquash-BlossomFrittata,9.1,photo

EndiveandFennelSalad,8.1,photoFriséeandRoastedPearSalad,8.1,photo

EscaroleandBeanSoup,8.1,photo

Farro,Asparagus,andArtichokeSalad,5.1,photoFennel

andEndiveSalad,8.1,photonotablevarietiesandSausage,ClamPanRoastwith,photo,5.2andSmokedSalmonSalad,5.1,photo

FiddleheadandPotatoHashwithEggs,photo,7.2FigandArugulaCrostini,8.1,photoFish.SeealsoSalmon

BroiledStripedBasswithCauliflowerandCapers,photo,9.2SteamedBlackBasswithGingerandScallions,photo,1.2WholeBakedTroutwithCherryTomatoesandPotatoes,10.1,photo

Flowers,Edible,andArugula,GoatCheesewith,9.1,photoFlowers&buds,basicsofFriséeandRoastedPearSalad,8.1,photoFrittata,Squash-Blossom,9.1,photoFritters,Zucchini-Scallion,10.1,photoFruit.Seealsospecificfruits

botanical,basicsofStone,andArugulaSaladwithBalsamicLambChops,8.1,photo

GarlicGazpachoAjoBlanco,1.1,photoGreen-,Butter,1.1,photoMustard-GreensPesto,4.1,photonotablevarietiesOnions,Shallots,andScapes,RoastChickenwith,photo,1.2Parsley,andFetaDressing,Creamy,1.1,photoandSpinachSoup,8.1,photo

Gnocchi,Potato,photo,3.2Greens.Seealsospecificgreens

Baby,withPineNutsandPancetta,8.1,photobasicsofandEggplant,SkilletPizzawith,photo,4.2Sesame,4.1,photo

springandwild,notablevarietiesStuffedTomatoeswithMozzarella,10.1,photo

HamandBroccoliRabeCroqueMonsieurs,4.1,photoHandPies,Roasted-Tomato,photo,10.2Herb(s).Seealsospecificherbs

-and-ScallionBreadPudding,1.1,photoSauce,RoastedCauliflowerwith,9.1,photo

IceCream,Corn,andBlueberryCompote,CornmealShortcakeswith,11.1,photoIsraeliCouscous

MoroccanVegetableSoup,2.1,photowithParsleyandShallots,1.1,photo

JerusalemArtichokes,LambStewwith,photo,3.2Jicama-CitrusSalad,2.1,photo

KaleandAvocadoSaladwithDates,4.1,photoandButternutSquashHash,10.1,photoCaldoVerde,4.1,photoChipswithBalsamicGlaze,4.1,photoandLentilBowlwithSprouts,7.1,photo

notablevarieties-RicottaDip,4.1,photo

Kohlrabi,notablevarieties

LambChops,Balsamic,ArugulaandStoneFruitSaladwith,8.1,photoStewwithJerusalemArtichokes,photo,3.2

Leaves,basicsofLeek(s)

andChicken,Normandy-Style,withCrèmeFraîche,photo,1.2andLemon,PastaCarbonarawith,1.1,photoandParsnipSoup,2.1,photoandTwice-CookedPotatoCasserole,3.1,photo

LentilandKaleBowlwithSprouts,7.1,photoLettuce

CharredRomaineSalad,8.1,photoCups,MiniAsianMeatballsin,photo,8.2notablevarieties

MangoCucumber,andShrimpEscabèche,10.1,photoandTomatoSalad,10.1,photo

Meatballs,MiniAsian,inLettuceCups,photo,8.2Melon,Cucumber,andMintSoup,Chilled,10.1,photoMicrogreens,notablevarietiesMisoEggplant,10.1,photoMushroom(s)

Asparagus,andEggStir-Fry,photo,5.2Broccoli,Shrimp,andShiitakeStir-Fry,9.1,photoPorkScaloppinewithRadicchio,8.1,photoShiitake,andShoots,SesameSalmonwith,7.1,photo

Mussels,Lemon,andShallots,Spaghettiwith,1.1,photoMustardGreens

CaesarSalad,4.1,photonotablevarietiesPesto,4.1,photo

NasturtiumSaladwithArtichokesandAsparagus,9.1,photoNoodles

PadThai,photo,7.2Rice,withScallionsandHerbs,1.1,photo

Onion(s)Four-,SoupwithGinger,photo,1.2notablevarietiesRings,Beer-Battered,1.1,photoShallots,Garlic,andScapes,RoastChickenwith,photo,1.2Spring,andSalmon,Roasted,photo,1.2

Parsnip(s)andCarrots,Brisketwith,photo,2.2Cupcakes,Spiced,withCreamCheeseFrosting,2.1,photo

andLeekSoup,2.1,photoPasta

BucatiniwithCauliflower,Capers,andLemon,9.1,photoCapelliniwithChiveBlossoms,9.1,photoCarbonarawithLeeksandLemon,1.1,photoFree-FormLasagnawithEdibleWeeds,photo,8.2withMarinatedHeirloomTomatoes,10.1,photoOrecchiettewithBroccoliRabeandTomatoes,photo,4.2SpaghettiwithMussels,Lemon,andShallots,1.1,photoSwissChardLasagna,photo,4.2withZucchini,Mint,andPecorino,10.1,photo

Pear,Roasted,andFriséeSalad,8.1,photoPea(s)

GardenGreenswithChoppedEggs,8.1,photoGreen-,BurgerswithHarissaMayo,photo,6.2RisieBisi,6.1,photoSnap-,andBeefStir-Fry,6.1,photoSnow,Sautéed,andPeaShoots,7.1,photoSugarSnap,Blanched,ThreeWays,photo,6.2

PeaShoots,SautéedSnowPeasand,7.1,photoPeppers

Bell,Roasted,10.1,photoBlisteredPadrón,withSeaSalt,10.1,photoChilesRellenos,10.1,photoGrilledRampswithRomesco,1.1,photoHatchChileCornPudding,11.1,photonotablevarietiesPickledJalapeñosandCucumbers,10.1,photoSkilletSteakPeperonata,10.1,photoTomatilloandChipotleSalsa,10.1,photo

Pesto,Mustard-Greens,4.1,photoPickledJalapeñosandCucumbers,10.1,photo

PickledPods,Quick-,photo,6.2PickledRamps,1.1,photoPistachioGuacamole,10.1,photoPizza

ButternutSquashandTaleggio,10.1,photoSkillet,withGreensandEggplant,photo,4.2WatercressandAsparagus,photo,8.2

Pods,basicsofPork.SeealsoSausage(s)

Chops,Roasted,withSweetPotatoesandApples,photo,3.2HamandBroccoliRabeCroqueMonsieurs,4.1,photoPadThai,photo,7.2Roast,RhubarbChutneywith,5.1,photoScaloppinewithRadicchio,8.1,photo

Potato(es).SeealsoSweetPotato(es)andAsparagusFlatbread,5.1,photoandBeet,Roasted,Borscht,photo,2.2CaldoVerde,4.1,photoandCeleryRootRösti,2.1,photoandCherryTomatoes,WholeBakedTroutwith,10.1,photoDinnerRolls,photo,3.2andFiddleheadHashwithEggs,photo,7.2Gnocchi,photo,3.2Mashed,Mrs.Kostyra’s,3.1,photonotablevarietiesSalad,ThreeWays,3.1,photoSalmonChowder,3.1,photoShallots,andChestnuts,Salt-Baked,3.1,photoTartiflette,3.1,photoTwice-Cooked,andLeekCasserole,3.1,photoYukonGoldandSweetPotatoesAnna,3.1,photo

Pudding,HatchChileCorn,11.1,photo

PuntarelleSalad,FriedChickenwith,8.1,photo

QuinoaandRoastedCarrotswithMisoDressing,photo,2.2

Radicchio,PorkScaloppiniwith,8.1,photoRadish(es)

CharredRomaineSalad,8.1,photonotablevarietiesRoasted,withCapersandAnchovies,2.1,photoTartine,2.1,photo

RampsGrilled,withRomesco,1.1,photoPickled,1.1,photo

RhubarbChutneywithPorkRoast,5.1,photonotablevarieties

RiceBeetRisottowithBeetGreens,2.1,photoFried,withCollardGreens,photo,4.2RisieBisi,6.1,photo

Roots,basicsofRutabaga

-AppleMash,2.1,photoandBrusselsSprouts,Roasted,2.1,photoMoroccanVegetableSoup,2.1,photo

SaladsArugulaandStoneFruit,withBalsamicLambChops,8.1,photoAsparagus,Artichoke,andFarro,5.1,photoBabyGreenswithPineNutsandPancetta,8.1,photoBeet,withGingerDressing,2.1,photoBokChoy,withCashews,4.1,photoCelery,Cilantro,andAlmond,5.1,photoCharredRomaine,8.1,photoCranberryBean,withDelicataSquashandBroccoliRabe,6.1,photoEndiveandFennel,8.1,photoFennelandSmokedSalmon,5.1,photoFriséeandRoastedPear,8.1,photoGardenGreenswithChoppedEggs,8.1,photoGreenBean,ShellBean,andSweetOnionFattoush,6.1,photoGreenBeanandWatercress,6.1,photoJicama-Citrus,2.1,photoKaleandAvocado,withDates,4.1,photoMustard-GreensCaesar,4.1,photoNasturtium,withArtichokesandAsparagus,9.1,photoPotato,ThreeWays,3.1,photoPuntarelle,FriedChickenwith,8.1,photoSesameCarrotSlaw,2.1,photoShreddedNapaCabbage,8.1,photoSwissChard,Cabbage,andBrusselsSprouts,4.1,photoTomatoandMango,10.1,photoTurnip,withBaconVinaigrette,2.1,photo

SalmonandAvocadoTartines,10.1,photoChowder,3.1,photoRoasted,andSpringOnions,photo,1.2Sesame,withShiitakeMushroomsandShoots,7.1,photoSmoked,andFennelSalad,5.1,photo

Salsa,TomatilloandChipotle,10.1,photoSalsify

Gratin,2.1,photonotablevarieties

SandwichesAvocado-and-SproutClub,7.1,photoBroccoliRabeandHamCroqueMonsieurs,4.1,photo

SaucesMustard-GreensPesto,4.1,photoTomato

Sausage(s)CaldoVerde,4.1,photoandFennel,ClamPanRoastwith,photo,5.2

Scallion(s)-and-HerbBreadPudding,1.1,photoandGinger,SteamedBlackBasswith,photo,1.2andHerbs,RiceNoodleswith,1.1,photonotablevarieties

ScapesGarlic-ScapeToasts,1.1,photoOnions,Shallots,andGarlic,RoastChickenwith,photo,1.2

ShallotsFour-OnionSoupwithGinger,photo,1.2Mussels,andLemon,Spaghettiwith,1.1,photoOnions,Garlic,andScapes,RoastChickenwith,photo,1.2andParsley,IsraeliCouscouswith,1.1,photoPotatoes,andChestnuts,Salt-Baked,3.1,photo

Shellfish.SeeClam;Mussels;ShrimpShoots

basicsofandShiitakeMushrooms,SesameSalmonwith,7.1,photo

Shortcakes,Cornmeal,withCornIceCreamandBlueberryCompote,11.1,photoShrimp

ShrimpBroccoli,andShiitakeStir-Fry,9.1,photoCucumber,andMangoEscabèche,10.1,photo

SoupsCaldoVerde,4.1,photoCarrot,Spicy,2.1,photoCorn,11.1,photoEscaroleandBean,8.1,photoFour-Onion,withGinger,photo,1.2GazpachoAjoBlanco,1.1,photoLeekandParsnip,2.1,photoMelon,Cucumber,andMint,Chilled,10.1,photoRoastedBeetandPotatoBorscht,photo,2.2SalmonChowder,3.1,photoSpinachandGarlic,8.1,photoVegetable,Moroccan,2.1,photo

SpinachandFontinaStrata,photo,8.2andGarlicSoup,8.1,photonotablevarieties

Sprout(s)-and-AvocadoClubSandwiches,7.1,photoKaleandLentilBowlwith,7.1,photonotablevarietiesPadThai,photo,7.2

Squash.SeealsoZucchiniAcorn,Roasted,ThreeWays,photo,10.2-BlossomFrittata,9.1,photoButternut,andKaleHash,10.1,photoButternut,andTaleggioPizza,10.1,photoDelicata,andBroccoliRabe,CranberryBeanSaladwith,6.1,photosummer,notablevarieties

winter,notablevarietiesStalksandstems,basicsofStripedBass,Broiled,withCauliflowerandCapers,photo,9.2SweetPotato(es)

andApples,RoastedPorkChopswith,photo,3.2notablevarietiesTwice-CookedPotatoandLeekCasserole,3.1,photoYeastedRolls,3.1,photoandYukonGoldAnna,3.1,photo

TomatilloandChipotleSalsa,10.1,photoTomato(es)

andBroccoliRabe,Orecchiettewith,photo,4.2-ChardSauté,4.1,photoCherry,andPotatoes,WholeBakedTroutwith,10.1,photoChilesRellenos,10.1,photoandMangoSalad,10.1,photoMarinatedHeirloom,Pastawith,10.1,photonotablevarietiesOlives,andFeta,BlisteredEggplantwith,10.1,photoRoasted-,HandPies,photo,10.2SauceStuffed,withMozzarella,10.1,photoZucchini“Pasta”Primavera,photo,10.2

Trout,WholeBaked,withCherryTomatoesandPotatoes,10.1,photoTubers,basicsofTurnip(s)

notablevarietiesSaladwithBaconVinaigrette,2.1,photo

WatercressandAsparagusPizza,photo,8.2andGreenBeanSalad,6.1,photo

Weeds,Edible,Free-FormLasagnawith,photo,8.2

ZucchiniMint,andPecorino,Pastawith,10.1,photo“Pasta”Primavera,photo,10.2QuickBread,photo,10.2-ScallionFritters,10.1,photo

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Martha Stewartâ€™s Vegetables: Inspired Recipes and Tips for Choosing, Cooking, and Enjoying...

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Transcript of Martha Stewartâ€™s Vegetables: Inspired Recipes and Tips for Choosing, Cooking, and Enjoying...

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