Post on 25-Mar-2018
2/28/2014
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بلندريسندگي الياف LongStaple Spinning
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?Long Staple Fibersالياف بلند ؟
l > 50 mm
Wool , Animal Fibers , Flax , Jute , … & Long Staple Synthetic Fibers
Wool
؟چرا سيستواي هتفات ! بلذ، ريسذگي الياف كتاريسذگي الياف 188Textile Technology
روشهاي توليد نخ از الياف پشم
Woolen Spinning System روش ريسندگي پشمي -١
Worsted Spinning System روش ريسندگي فاستوني -2
Semi-Worsted Spinning System روش ريسندگي نيمه فاستوني -3
تع باال در استفاد از الياف هختلف براي تليذ خاي هتسط ضخين Tex 2000-40: هحذد ور خ تليذي
خ پالتاي ضخين, خ خاب قالي , خ پد پت
لسم استفاد از الياف ظريف شاهل عوليات شا زي براي تليذ خاي ظريف Tex 70-11: هحذد ور خ تليذي
...كت داهي , خاي ظريف هرد استفاد در پارچ اي كت شلاري
.در ايي رش شا زي ذارين لي در باقي اصل شبي سيستن فاستي استNm 20-8: هحذد ور خ تليذي
خ كاها, هاشيي خ خاب فرش189Textile Technology
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تفاوت بين كاالي فاستوني و پشمي
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خصوصيات مهم فيسيكي شيميايي الياف پشم از نقطه نظر ريسندگي
ساختمان ليف پشم
Cuticleخارجي •
Cortexمياني •
Medullaداخلي •
هستعذ وذي شذى(Scale)داراي فلس
(Para & Ortho)(Crimp)
Kemp :
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sMerino
S
Crossbred
″ ″ ″ ″ S
″ ″ ″ ″ S
sCarpet Wool
(Qs)(Nw)
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Woolen Spinning System
(Streichgarn)
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•(New Virgin Wool)•(Shoddy)•(Mungo)•(Noil)•(Man-made fibers, Rayon, Cotton)
•(Wastes)•(Extracted wool)•(Flocks)•(Slide wool / Pulled wool)
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Spinning Carding Blending & Oiling Fiber preparation
SortingScouring
CarbonizingDrying
SortingRag Pulling
Garnetting
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Pile, Stack or Layer BlendingBatch System
Continuous BlendingSemi-Continuous Blending
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••
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(Rubbing)(Slubbing)
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(Slubbing)
Scribbler (Breaker) Carder (Finisher)
Scribbler (Breaker) Intermediate Card Carder (Finisher)
Intermediate Feed
Hopper
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–
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Taker-inCylinder (Swift)WorkerStripperFancyDoffer
FANCYWORKER
STRIPPER
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M. S. Ahmadi207Textile Technology
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Condensing
(Rubbing)(Slubbing)
(Condenser creel)CakeCheese
CakeSpool
Ring Doffer CondenserTape Condenser
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•Single Doffer Condenser•Double Doffer Condenser
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•Series Tape Condenser•Endless Tape Condenser
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Ordinary Condenser CreelTandem CreelTraversing Creel
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Mule
Woolen Ring
––
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.
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Woolen Ring Frame
Temporary Twist(False Twister)
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(Balloon Reducer)
mm–mm
n> n>
n>
Tex(yarn)/Tex(fiber)
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Worsted Spinning System
(Kammgarn)
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•(New Virgin Wool)•(Polyester , Acrylic)
Worsted : Descriptive of yarns spun wholly from combedwool in which the fibres are reasonably parallel, andfabrics or garments made from such yarns.
Worsted spun : A term applied to yarn spun from staple
fibre processed on worsted spinning machinery bycarding or preparing, combing, and drafting; or byconverting a continuous filament tow and drafting; or
from a combination of slivers or rovings from both
systems.
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Worsted Flow Chart
Raw wool and hair
Sorting & Blending
Dust removal (if needed)
Scouring
Drying
Preparer Gilling(6 operations)
Combing(Lister or Nobel)
Carding
Intermediate Gilling(usually 3 gill boxes)
Combing(usually Rectilinear,Sometimes Noble)
Top finishing(usually 2 gill boxes)
Continued
Fibers shorter than 200mm
Maximum fiber length
Fibers longer than 200mm
Maximum fiber length
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Top dyeing (or bleaching)
Backwashing
Drying
Blending
Comb preparation(3 gill boxes)
Recombing(Rectilinear or Nobel)
Gill mixing(2 operations)
Top finishing(usually 2 gill boxes)
Continued
56’s wool quality and
coarser
58’s wool quality and
finer
–
M. S. Ahmadi222Textile Technology
Drawing(2 to 5 operations)
Spinning
Winding and Clearing
Folding and Re-winding if required
–
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A- Worsted Top MakingB- Worsted Yarn Making
Tops
A
1- New Virgin Wool
2- Loose Wool (Undyed) ?
BDrawingWorsted Spinning.
B
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Worsted Top Making
2.5 in
2.5 in
backwash
HeilmanRectilinearNobel(Circular)
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(gilling)(preparing)
(fallers)
Carding or Preparing ?
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BreastMorel
Dickey
Dickey
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Garnett
breast
FancyDickey
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working width 2.5-3.5 mdiameter of main cylinder 900, 1200, 1500 mmcylinder speed 1200 m/min doffer speed 65 m/mindelivery speed of up to 350 m/min
doffing comb capable of 2500-3200 or 3600 strokes per minute231Textile Technology
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Worsted Drawing
Gilling(Gill box)
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Open Gill box
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Intersecting Gill box
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Chain Gill box
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Rotary Gill box
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Caterpillar Gill box
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Nip Gauge :
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Combing Process
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1- Heilman or French (Rectilinear) (1846)2- Lister or Nip (1846-51)3- Holden or Square motin (1847-48)4- Noble or Circular (1853)
RectilinearSant Andrea NovaraNSC
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(Rectilinear)246Textile Technology
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(Nip/min)
Tear :
Top finishing
WorstedTop
Top finishing
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MilleniumSant Andrea Novara
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ERANSC
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Backwashing
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Recombing
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(Noil)
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(Rubbing)
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Worsted Spinning Process
Conventional Ring Spinning
Solo Spinning
Compact Spinning
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IDEACOGNETEX 262Textile Technology
Degree of Twist Worsted System Factor
Metric System Factor
Soft 1.67 62
Normal, Filling 2.28 85
Normal, Warp 3.07 114
Medium hard 4.22 157
Hard or Crepe 5.32 197
Turn per inch = Factor × √Nw
Turn per meter = Factor × √Nm
The Wira Textile Data Book → n = 30 – 35Wool Handbook → n > 40
n > 60
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Semi-worsted Spinning System
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Spinning Multiple Gilling Carding Opening & Blending
Roving (Optional)
Direct Spinning
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2.5m – 3m – 3.5 m130 – 150 rpm 50m/min 450 kg/h
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CF 60NSC270Textile Technology