Post on 11-Mar-2016
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Gram magazine is a free monthly publication
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This monthNot only are pomegranates sweet and tasty, they are also packed
with vitamins and antioxidants – and are now in season. This month
check out reviews of Hawk & Hunter, Bomb Café, Lux Foundry,
Temple Brewery, Mr Mason, Souper Burger and more. Danielle Gullaci, Editor
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5
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Opening hours
Monday to Sunday: 6.30am – 8pm
Coffee: Red Star Coffee
Mr LB: “Ripponlea is a tiny suburb within the Port Phillip area that is
usually passed through when going from point A to point B. With a tiny
population of approximately 2000 people, you would think that this little
suburb has nothing to offer other than gorgeous housing estates and
majestic autumn leaves. However, you would be quite mistaken. Not only
is there the impressive Ripponlea Estate, but it is also home to one of the
world’s best restaurants, Attica. The only thing missing is a fabulous café
and the boys that brought you The Little Ox have crossed the Nepean
Highway to bring you Hawk & Hunter.
Upon first glance of the Hawk & Hunter space, it immediately resonated
something special. There is no resemblance to The Little Ox here, with an
impressively independent look of reinforced iron-made shelves that hang
from the roof and plenty of table space for groups, singles and couples.
There is a quirky side to the décor with various flower combinations
and impressive wall art of old newspaper clippings and a large cut up
tree. It’s a café space that’s attractive, alluring and with an ambiance that
makes you want to hang around and take it all in.
It was coffee time and I had to order my long black [$3.50] from Red Star
Coffee. It was a good, smooth coffee with plenty of fruity flavours. With a
crisp taste it brought a unique coffee that all brunch goers would love. My
only criticism was that there was a little too much water for my liking and
in turn the flavours had been slightly diluted.
Having been situated at the end of the communal table and fascinated as
to how the kitchen operated, it became quickly apparent that I was not
only hungry but excited. The staff were nice enough to tell us that food had
a wait of 20 minutes, but being its first weekend it was understandable.
The menu itself was impressive with an extensive selection of brunch
options with some individuality. I ended up going for the Mexican Spiced
Tomato and Corn – salsa, hard tacos, avocado, coriander and scrambled
eggs + chorizo [$15 + $4.5].
Our meals took a little while and this may be attributed to the small
size of the kitchen in comparison to the sheer size of the café, however
this shouldn’t be discounted. The presentation of my meal was good and
still inviting enough to take a little piece of the salsa as I waited for Miss
SL’s camera. I was given soft tacos instead of hard, which I think was
better anyway. All the ingredients were well-balanced with a definite
Mexican taste. The scrambled eggs were moist and went perfectly with
the smokey chorizo. In fact, it was possibly the best chorizo I have tasted
and it was definitely worth the extra $4.50. The only real fault would have
been the lack of spices from the salsa. As with any good salsa there was a
fantastic fresh taste but the tomato didn’t have that kick. Overall, it was a
simple tasting meal that satisfied my Mexican brunch craving.
Hawk & Hunter has done Ripponlea well. It has successfully delivered a
unique and tasty brunch spot that is worth stopping in for. Being its first
weekend in operation and hosting to a packed house, it seems that they
can only improve from here on in. I’m already looking forward to my next
visit and I think you will not be disappointed.”
Miss SL: “It seems like it was the weekend of The Little Ox. On Saturday
we’d ducked into their fine establishment for a cheeky coffee, running into
a colleague from work who was battling the chilly temperatures outside
while enjoying her coffee. On the Sunday, we’d organised brunch with
Toy and her partner at the newly opened Hawk & Hunter – the sister café
brought to us by the owners of The Little Ox.
Hawk & HunterGlen Eira Avenue, Ripponlea. Ph: 9523 0798
ABOUT MR LB ANd MISS SL
Two people in Melbourne who love food set about a journey to find the
best brunch in town. Scouting out new brunch places weekly for you to
try is our quest. Don’t worry – coffee quality is just as important to us as
the food.
WWW.BRUNCHAddICT.COM
Words and photos by Brunch Addict
Having been situated at tHe end of tHe communal table and fascinated as to How tHe kitcHen operated, it became quickly apparent tHat i was not only Hungry but excited...tHe menu itself was impressive witH an extensive selection of bruncH options witH some individuality.
7
In the quiet, unassuming streets of Ripponlea, you could barely tell that
there was a hot new café that had just opened up. The electric environment
was immediate as soon as we stepped inside. Mr LB and I were surprised
at how many people knew this place had opened. The crowd seemed like
a mix of food lovers and locals that were patiently waiting to be seated
on one of the two large communal tables or more intimate tables for two.
The interior was beautiful – a combination of wood, steel and quirky pops
of neon mesh-sculptures created an interesting yet casual environment.
Within 20 minutes we were seated and ordered our coffees. I opted for a
short black [$3] in my attempts to remain healthy and to steer away from
lattes. It was beautifully made and had a crisp taste that was sharp enough
without being overbearing. I just loved their bold colour combinations of
the cups and saucers – too cute!
The menu admittedly caught me off guard – it was Mexican themed.
Apart from the classics, breakfast consisted of eggs with beans and/or
chilli. I guess these guys are hopping on the Mexican bandwagon, but I
have to say I quite liked it. It was unconventional and steered away from
the standard options. For my main, I went for the Honey French toast,
caramelised bananas, passionfruit and toasted coconut [$14.50] and
ordered an additional caramel milkshake [$6] to go with the meal.
The food took an extraordinary amount of time to come out (more than
40 minutes!), but given that they’ve just opened up and were still working
out the kinks, they could be forgiven. The portioning of my French toast
was generous – while the breadsticks were small, they were filling. It was
incredibly sweet, which I must admit was a little hard to handle at first.
As the meal went on, I came to appreciate the harmonic balance of the
honey and caramel, blended together to make a thick sauce atop the
banana and bread.
The toast itself wasn’t soaked through all the way, but this was okay as the
dish was bursting with flavour. The passionfruit was tasty, adding a great
crunchy texture to the dish. The toasted coconut was a nice addition, but
quickly got lost amongst the strong flavours of the other elements.
Toy had ordered my second preference – Big Ed’s scrambled eggs, bacon,
chilli and basil, garlic toast and salsa verde [$17.50]. It looked gorgeous
when it came out and her garlic toast looked well-made. She commented
that the garlic was quite overpowering but overall enjoyed her meal.
Her partner had gone for more of an unch (the lunch side of brunch)
option, opting for “The San Swirl – MO” Argentinian steak sandwich
with garlic aioli [$19]. The multigrain bread he ordered looked so soft
and fluffy.
Overall I enjoyed Hawk & Hunter. There needs to be some obvious
ironing out around service, but the food delivered was pretty good and
the coffee was excellent. I’d be interested to come back later in the year
and try some of their other dishes, including their smokey baked bean,
roasted capsicums, spinach and warm Turkish toast [$15] + egg [$18]
or their Hawk & Hunter spiced porridge, poached seasonal fruit and
yoghurt [$9.50]. De-lish!”
Final thought: “An unconventional menu and much-needed brunch spot
for Ripponlea.”
The menu admiTTedly caughT me off guard – iT was mexican Themed. aparT from The classics, breakfasT consisTed of eggs wiTh beans and/or chilli. i guess These guys are hopping on The mexican bandwagon, buT i have To say i quiTe liked iT. iT was unconvenTional and sTeered away from The sTandard opTions.
9
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I’m utterly torn. You see, I’ve found this endearing café and I don’t
particularly want to share it with you. I want it to remain under the radar,
to forever be a place where I can go to escape hipster staff so high on
double espressos – no sugar – that they seem to forget you exist. On the
other hand, it’s so charming that the owners deserve to be flooded with
business and quite possibly a hug or two. All right, you’ve convinced me:
it’s called Bomb Café… but don’t go telling everyone.
You’ll find the inconspicuous painted red front door wedged into the grungy
Johnston Street strip in Abbostford – you know, that section of dusty
shops that verges on creepy, just before you hit Hoddle Street. It’s easy
to miss, so keep an eye out for the pixelated logo on the window. Locals
will tell you with pride that it’s nothing less than an oasis.
Upon first glance the space is miniscule: a few wooden tables, some
bench seating in the front window, a coffee machine, a small display
cabinet featuring baguettes and sweets (think homemade gingerbread
men, hummingbird cupcakes, brownies and pastries), and a kitchen the
size of my palm jammed in the corner. Not even the mirror on the wall
gives an illusion of space.
“There’s a garden out the back,” the waitress smiles knowingly. We make
our way down the corridor, feeling like intruders in a private home. On the
way through we pass a square room with an unused fireplace, framed by
block seats with dark purple cushions. A child’s bike is propped up next to
the pine wood cubes that pose as a table in the centre of the arrangement.
They’re decorated with pink flowers from out the back. A window filters
natural light, which competes with the warm glow from a cylindrical lamp
in the corner.
The polished concrete floor leads us past a young girl washing dishes, the
door through to the toilet and finally, to the back door. To call the outdoor
area a ‘courtyard’ is insufficient. Like the waitress said, it’s a garden.
Overflowing with ferns, flowers, trees, wooden Thai sculptures and even two
fat gold fish in a ceramic water feature, it made me want to play ‘fairies’ all
over again.
Seating is limited: there’s a picnic bench, some plastic green stools for
the kiddies, a rickety wooden table for two or a sturdier outdoor set for
larger groups. It’s sheltered and shady, with shards of light piercing through
the trees. A woman was cutting blooms and brushes to display in a vase
BomB Café229 Johnston Street, Abbotsford. Ph: 9486 0699
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10
inside. Another bike with training wheels leaned against the bench. Children
tottered around in bare feet, gurgling absurdly cute conversations through
two-toothed smiles. You won’t find a lovelier spot to sip coffee al fresco in
Melbourne.
And what coffee! Everyone who eats at Bomb Café is informed there are
two varieties: Genovese’s rich Italian beans, recommended for black coffee,
or fair trade Gravity organic coffee. We sampled the latter, a bright, creamy
blend with a hint of brown sugar and a lingering, fruity aftertaste. Not quite
as fruity as the small OJ though (large also available), freshly squeezed and
refreshing. Try the blood orange juice when it’s seasonal. Bomb also offers
LSD. But before you get excited about a magical trip in the garden, it stands
for ‘Latte Soy Dandelion’, an earthy coffee alternative made with soy milk and
complete with a bunch of cleansing health benefits. I’d recommend trying
it, although it’s an acquired taste. Alternatively, go for an iced chocolate or
coffee, a frappé or a thickshake.’
The breakfast menu is equal parts affordable and delicious. While health
nuts will be tempted by the pear and cranberry toasted muesli with fruit and
yoghurt, those on their day off are likely to order the ricotta pancakes with
double cream and citrus coulis or homemade strawberry jam (the latter of
which you can purchase by the jar). Then there are thick slices of fruit toast,
banana bread and five breakfast baguettes. But if you really want a taste
explosion, order the eggs.
It was difficult to fault the Eggs Benedict, and the same can most probably
be said about the Florentine alternative. Two slices of perfectly cooked,
buttered sourdough exhibited an external crunch and soft middle. Large
slices of lean, grilled ham blanketed the toast and made a mockery out
of ever ordering bacon. The yolks of the poached eggs gushed out when
pierced with the knife and the whites were cooked through. The light and
zesty homemade hollandaise sauce was creamy without being overly rich.
Yet despite praise for the Eggs Benedict, it paled in comparison to my open
omelette. Again, it came served on two slices of toast – not that you could
see them beneath the mammoth covering. More accurately described as a
delectable slab, it was flavoured with cheese and a small handful of parsley.
Heaving with chunks of flavoursome chorizo, wedges of fresh tomato,
spinach, mild red onion and baby chat potatoes, those with a hangover
should form a cult and worship this dish. There is also a vegetarian option
available, with tomato, spinach, red onion, garlic, basil, pesto and mayo.
Don’t do eggs? Bomb café is vegan friendly, although seriously people, you
don’t know what you’re missing. There’s scrambled tofu or the vegan fry up,
a mixed bag of tomato, spinach, red onion, mushroom and avocado on toast.
When we stumbled across the Bomb, herbed mushrooms and Meredith
goat’s cheese on toast was the daily special. For lunch, there are plenty of
baguettes and bruschetta options, as well as rumours of ravishing risottos.
So there you have it, my new favourite café. It may not boast industrial-chic
décor or staff uniforms of buttoned-to-the-top shirts and statement specs,
but it’s nostalgic, full of character and pours a mean bean. When you top it
all off with hearty eggs, fresh produce and a secret garden, it’s fair to say
that Bomb Café is, well, a blast! But let’s keep it quiet, okay?
Open daily, 7am until 3.30pm
13
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Lux Foundry is one of the friendliest establishments I’ve been to recently
and I can’t rave about it enough.
The café is housed in a heritage listed building, an old stove foundry, and the
décor has retained some of the rugged industrial elements while updating
the look with enamel pendant lamps and classic Thonet chairs. Inside the
building, gasp-inducing cathedral ceilings give lots of light to the brushed
concrete and exposed brick factory floor while the huge outdoor area in
front means no fighting for seats and lots of space for kids to roam when
the weather is warm.
Besides the usual hip café crowd you’d expect in Brunswick, it draws cyclists,
pram-pushing parents and dog owners all in need of a drink and some food.
I found the staff to be welcoming and accommodating for all – the kind of
place where you feel like they’d know your name if you were a regular.
A and I converged into the café with kids and bikes in tow on a weekday
lunch hour. After a bit of faffing by us and patience from the waitress we
finally ordered lunch – an Asian shredded chicken salad, cabbage, snow
peas, peanuts with chilli, lime and sesame oil dressing ($16.50) and an egg
and bacon La Madre panini with tomato relish ($10.50). My salad was a
fresh and crunchy affair, full of exuberant health with a kick of chilli to liven
things up. A’s breakfast panini was fairly stock standard though good quality
ingredients equals a sandwich that’s better than average.
For dessert I trawled the glass cake cabinet indecisively before one of the
staff came to help me. His advice was to go for the berry coconut slice
($4) – and my advice is to do the same! Indulge in layers of sugar with
a Genovese coffee ($3.50) or the creamy and fragrant Lux Chai Latte ($3.70).
The folks at Lux Foundry are so nice that they even let another business
take up shop in their courtyard on Fridays. The Gumbo Kitchen food truck
parks there every Friday night, serving gumbo, po’ boys and other Louisiana
inspired food. Yet another reason to visit.
Opening hours
Monday to Friday: 7.30am – 4.00pm
Saturday and Sunday: 8.00am – 5.00pm
LUX FOUNDRY21 Hope Street, Brunswick. Ph: 9387 8075
ABOUT JETSETTING JOYCEJetsetting Joyce started blogging at Mel: Hot or Not in 2009. It contains honest and informative reviews about everything Melbourne – restaurants, bars, theatre, festivals, events, shops and businesses – all written with one decisive criteria in mind - is it Hot or Not?
WWW.MELHOTORNOT.COM
Words and photos by Jetsetting Joyce
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There is obviously some kind of ‘spoonful of sugar making the medicine go
down’ reference going begging here, but this really is the sweetest place in all
of Prahran. I wanted to build a nest inside it and hide out from the rest of the
world for as long as possible. It’s a wonderful, comfortable, delicious nook.
Spoonful is a dear place, frequented by the mummy crowd but also the
hip brown trouser wearing crowd. It’s borderline Armadale, away from the
hustle and bustle and significant irritation of Chapel Street, but it has the
charm of Brunswick or Middle Park. From the outside it looks smaller than
it is, and inside it is like being in your favourite old aunt’s kitchen. Things are
mismatched and quirky, but comfortable and warm. The whole place smells
like baking bread and oranges and smiling.
I went with my favourite breakfast companion, Sandi, because she is
remarkable. And so it came to be that I found myself in Prahran’s most
relaxing, beautiful café with intelligent, interesting conversation. What a treat!
Following will just be a series of gushing noises and “It was so lovely!”
because that is the best and perhaps only way to describe Spoonful. To my
delight, the breakfast special was a combination of all of my favourite things
(of course, because being at Spoonful is the same as reading The Magic
Faraway Tree): poached eggs, avocado, spinach and dukkah. Yes please!
Sandi chose the breakfast “salad”, which is a kind of breakfastified Caesar
salad: leaves, baked cherry tomatoes, bacon, long boats of crunchy bread,
mountains of parmesan and a poached egg on top. If that doesn’t sound like
the second best thing to have for breakfast, I don’t know what does.
Our waiter was charismatic but not offensive, which is exactly what I had
expected he would be like. He congratulated us on our fine choice of breakfast
dishes, which is exactly what I had expected he would do. And he danced them
across to our table and did not merely place them on the table but tossed
them with exactly the kind of flourish I expected he would.
The food was magic, with just the right balance of flavours and a completely
excellent bread that was crunchy and chewy in the appropriate amounts. My
poached eggs were very slightly overdone, but do you think it mattered? Sir,
it did not!
Conversation flows better at Spoonful. It is accented by a screen door that creaks
when people open it, as if you’re actually sitting on a wide verandah with wicker
chairs and all your friends. That is the type of place this is. Like a lounge room in
your own house, but with less mess to pick up and fewer stains on things.
SPOONFUL 543 High Street, Prahran. Ph: 9521 5212
ABOUT JUDGING YOUR BREAKFASTJudging Your Breakfast team Anna Spargo-Ryan and Robyn Box put themselves and their tastebuds on the line every week to judge Melbourne’s best and worst breakfasts. They draw on their love of food and writing to leave no breakfast stone unturned in this great city of ours.
WWW.JUDGINGYOURBREAKFAST.COM
Words and photos by Judging Your Breakfast
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Temple Brewery
122 Weston Street, Brunswick East. Ph: 9380 8999
AbOuT TIppLES
Tipples tells the stories of author Leon
Sammartino’s beer soaked adventures
in Melbourne’s craft beer scene. He
can be found propping up the bar at
any number of inner city pubs.
www.TIppLES.wORdpRESS.COM
Words and photos by Tipples
when Temple opened its doors just before Christmas, it seemed that
every beer wanker in Melbourne had some sort of collective epiphany,
all of a sudden every person with an untappd login and a Twitter feed
was raving about the new Temple to beer in the inner north. because
I don’t like crowds and I’m a little bit lazy, it took me a couple of
months before I got around to making the big trip up Lygon Street to
brunswick and I have to say I’m glad I did.
Temple is a slick operation. In fact I haven’t seen a schmicker (any
chance that’s a word?) looking brewhouse and bar since I tripped
down to True South last year.
The bar is all concrete, the tables dark wood with stainless seats, behind
the glass a brand new shiny brewhouse looking all technological, and
interestingly, ready for expansion if all things go well.
You can view the brewhouse from downstairs or head upstairs to
a second ultra modern room with more glass and a balcony which
overlooks the brewery.
I should mention here that if you have never been to a brewery that
‘viewing a brewhouse’ generally speaking is not that interesting. It’s
not like going to sugar shak or willy wonka’s, there is a distinct lack of
action and orange dwarfs and the magic happens within big stainless
steel tanks away from prying eyes.
You will get to see a brewer cleaning stuff though and maybe if you
are really lucky a fermenting brew causing some bubbles in a bucket
of water. but it’s still worth going to Temple for two reasons 1. the food,
and 2. the beer.
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I’m going to start with the food. Quite simply it was amazing, even if you
are just drinking and not looking for much you have to get the caramel/
chilli popcorn, it will change your life and ruin all other forms of popcorn
for you. If you are looking for something more substantial I can tell you
the potatoes were fantastic and the Brunswick Rarebit was gooey and
rich and very nice.
And all the food goes nicely with beer. Now there were six beers on
offer the afternoon I was there, I’m not going to tell you about all of
them because, well I didn’t take particularly good notes and hell you
should go along and find out for yourself.
The highlights for me included the Soba Ale, which is an unusual beer. It
is completely sessionable, easy to drink and refreshing, yet complex and
just a little left of centre all at the same time. It is slightly sweeter than I
was expecting and had honey overtones. A nice little beer – Schooner.
Saison seems to be the style du jour, everyone has one and everyone
is raving about them. In fact between Temple and Atticus Finch we
had three different Saisons that afternoon and I have to say I think the
Temple Saison was the pick of them. It was a very good example of the
style (as I understand it) – a gentle sipper, super refreshing and light,
lively and perfectly suited to a sunny Sunday afternoon, or working on
a French farm – Pint.
The third beer is another one that everyone is raving about, a black
IPA called Midnight IPA. The way I see it IPAs seem to go one of two
ways, either the New Zealand/Australian big fruity hops direction,
which means although they are bitter and hoppy they are still quite
approachable. The second direction, and the way I think the Midnight
goes is the American direction, big bitter, oily, resinous hops.
I tend to prefer the first approach. I find it often takes me a little longer
to get used to the American approach and it would be fair to say it was
like that with this beer.
I thought the first pot I had was okay, but nothing spectacular, but by
the time I was finishing my second pot I started to declare “This is a
very good beer.” It was still very bitter, but the body was starting to
come through, not roasted nuttiness that you get with many black IPAs
but rather a smooth, velvety almost oily mouthfeel. A challenging, but
ultimately very pleasant brew – Pint.
So in summary, get out to Temple. With their range of beers there is
something for everyone (the Bicycle beer is a weird little salty tart beer
that’s worth a try and the Brunswick draught is a good quality simple
beer that won’t scare your not beery friends) and even if you don’t like
beer (although then why are you reading this blog?) the food is just
outstanding.
the highlights for me included the soba ale, which is an unusual beer. it is completely sessionable, easy to drink and refreshing, yet complex and just a little left of centre all at the same time. it is slightly sweeter than i was expecting and had honey overtones. a nice little beer – schooner.
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Not too long ago, in November (last year), a newcomer by the name of Mr
Mason arrived around the Collins Street law precinct.
Situated within the mocha coloured walls of 530 Collins Street, Mr Mason is a
welcome addition to this lonely end of town.
Serving up French inspired cuisine, I was a bit surprised it wasn’t
named Monsieur Mason instead.
I was lucky enough to be invited to try out their lovely dinner menu (which
changes weekly depending on the fresh produce sourced).
As we arrived, I couldn’t help but excitedly run around the place taking in the
sights and sounds of the restaurant and bar area.
One of my favourite decorations in Mr Mason was the feature ceiling with its
multitude of brass shaded lights. The restaurant also features a lounge area
and an outdoor terrace.
I was a bit surprised of how quiet it was for a Saturday night in Melbourne
city and silently hoped that we would not be the only diners there that night.
Luckily as the night progressed, more patrons turned up.
To start us off for the night, the Boy and I were offered a delicious Rustic
Terrine of Confit Duck, Veal & Pistachio, Red Onion Relish, Cornishons with
Housemade Bread ($18.00).
Now as you all know, I don’t eat beef at all, and finding out that the terrine
had a bit of veal in it made me slightly uncomfortable, but I soldiered on and
tried some to ascertain the quality of the terrine.
I did quite enjoy the taste of the terrine (it was more duck than veal), but I left
the Boy to finish the board entirely on his own.
To go with the terrine, we were advised that the matched wines usually paired
with this would be a red, but as we weren’t big fans of red we were provided
with a glass of Domaine Joseph Cattin Pinot Blanc 2009 from France and a
Margaret River Vasse Felix Chardonnay 2010. I must say that I really enjoyed
the Pinot Blanc as it had a rounded sweet finish.
Mr Mason
ABOuT MS I-HuA
A HR professional who enjoys living in Melbourne and spends a lot of her time trying not to
let life get the better of her. This blog is mostly about food…with a bit of travelling, concerts,
books, movies and occasional writing thrown in.
www.MSIHuA.COM
Shop 10, 530 Collins Street, Melbourne. Ph: 9614 4500
Words and photos by I-Hua Lim
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22
To start us off with our mains, our waiter strongly advised us to pair them
with reds, to which we reluctantly agreed, but I learnt to appreciate and enjoy
as the meal progressed.
We were each given a glass of Louis Jadot Beaujolais Gamay 2009 from
France which is a blend of the pinot noir grape with a white variety grape.
As such, it was a lot easier for me to drink.
My main was definitely the winning dish of the night.
Roasted Lamb Rump, Bacon Lardons, Braised Lettuce, Broad Beans, Potato
Dumplings ($32.00). The lamb was cooked to perfection (i.e. nicely medium
rare and not too pink), the jus that accompanied it was rich and hearty. It was
so good that the Boy couldn’t resist stealing some of my lamb.
The Boy on the other hand had the Slow Cooked Rabbit, Baby Summer
Vegetables, Thyme and Creamy Mash ($30.00) which I felt was a little
too gamey and strong for me, and I didn’t quite enjoy it as much as the lamb.
I don’t usually mind rabbit, but I found this dish to be very heady and heavy.
On the upper hand, the sweetness of the baby vegetables made perfect
accompaniments to the dish and really brought it up.
The red too made a good pairing with both hearty dishes.
As our mains were cleared away, our wonderful waiter decided we needed
another glass of wine to keep us entertained and returned with a glass of
Rutherglen Muscat for each of us.
I think it was a reward for trusting him with the recommended red wine from
earlier (something he said he normally would not have paired with red meats,
but given we were not fans of red, he came up with that choice). And bravo
to him for that.
As we shared the amazingly rich Chocolate Soufflé with Vanilla Bean Ice-
Cream ($14.00), I couldn’t help but feel that this was a dessert to die for.
I’d almost given up hope of ever finding good chocolate soufflés in Melbourne
that are rich and not overpoweringly sweet.
Mr Mason’s version was utterly delectable and I have to remind myself to
return for it soon!
I have to say, the staff were delightful, friendly, courteous and knowledgeable.
Despite this being a courtesy meal, I would most definitely return for their
express lunch specials (which are an amazing steal for $15 or $20 [with wine],
an absolute bargain at this end of town).
There were some hits such as the lamb and chocolate soufflé, both of which
are my weaknesses that will keep me coming back for more.
(Ms I-Hua dined as a guest of Mr Mason and The Publican Group Australia)
Food/Cuisine: French
Dining Style: Restaurant
Opening Hours:
Monday to Friday: Breakfast, lunch and dinner
Saturday and Sunday: Available for private events
*Disclaimer: All food ratings and review are purely based on my own experiences
and how I feel about the service, food and quality at the time of visit.
25
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summary
If you’ve never seen it before you’d be forgiven. When it’s not being hidden
by the buses that stop right out the front, you might not think much of it
if you walked past. From both the exterior and interior it looks as if it has
been part of the scenery for yonks. Truth be told, they’ve only been open
for around five months and their game, as the name suggests, is soup and
burgers. Some years ago, owner and chef Scott had a ripper of a soup recipe
going. Thinking, “why the hell not share it with the world”, he decided to
open his first establishment. But, Melbourne being Melbourne, where your
day can turn from Merino wool to Budgy Smugglers, he knew a soup kitchen
alone wasn’t going to be enough. Harking back to his childhood from a
family vacation to Queensland, Scott told us all about one particular burger
experience that left him gobsmacked and in love. This passion for burgers
sees him at Prahran Market every morning scouting for the freshest, juiciest
produce. After many trials it was Gary’s Quality Meats that made the cut.
With a bunch of different burgers on the menu (all named after people that
helped Scott get Souper Burger up and running) he also offers up a selection
of winter warming soups and chilli dogs. Using a mix of Chuck, Short Rib
and Brisket, some simple seasoning and a homemade burger press, Scott
dished us out the Perry (named after the welder that put the joint together).
Along with the beef pattie the burger comes on a toasted buttered bun, with
lettuce, caramelised onion, tomato, free range bacon, egg, cheddar cheese
plus a choice of sauce (we opted for ketchup and mayo).
COmmENTs
B – “As the time passed and we waited for our meals, I had a feeling this
one man show would produce the goods and it’d be worth the wait. With
the looks of a good old fish ‘n’ chip shop burger, the beef pattie was subtly
seasoned and had been cooked nicely. The combo of the egg and the
creamy cheese makes for a burger that was really one of the creamiest I can
remember having. The caramelised onions were also perfectly cooked and
added a nice sweetness. I really have to say this place is going to give a few
other joints of similar style a run for their money.”
D – “Seeing as it was a slow Monday night with only two other people in
the shop who bought soup, I was wondering why it was taking so long.
However, then I took my first bite and understood the time and care this
guy puts into making his burgers. The beef was slightly thicker than your
average fish ‘n’ chip shop pattie, but it was the extras that really stole the
show. The creamy melted cheese, the yolky egg, caramelised onions and a
bun soaked in butter is what, for me, set this burger above other similar take
away burgers. I have a lot of respect for one man shows who are passionate
about their food, I just feel sorry for him when he gets busy.”
G – “For a place that’s only five months old, this place looks like it has
always been part of the neighbourhood. With a St Kilda like casualness
to it and friendly hospitality, this place impressed the hell out of me. The
nicely seasoned beef pattie was cooked perfectly. The cheddar cheese slice
combined with the mayo made each bite a delight. What topped it for me
was the caramelised onion – just oozing with sweetness taking the burger
up a level. The bun was nicely toasted with no surprises there. The lettuce
and tomato were there and did their job, not taking over the burger. Sorry
folks, no chips here, but you don’t really need any. If you feel like you need a
side, I recommend the Chilli Dog for $5.”
Z – “I walked into this not expecting a whole lot. The concept of soup and
burgers together took me to a weird place. But once I bit into the burger,
that weird place turned into paradise. It was so creamy! A whole bunch
of sweetness oozed from the caramelised onions, the bacon was delicious,
the cheese and egg fantastic, and the small amount of lettuce and tomato
stepped back but did their job. Being lightly seasoned, the meat really
didn’t have to stand out a whole lot in regards to creating any overpowering
flavours. Instead it worked in harmony with its other counterparts to make
me smile with every bite. Being one of the most well-balanced and enjoyable
adventures I’ve had in a while, it really shows that the most important
ingredient in a burger is love. *Wipes tear*”
burger review:souper burger
ABOUT THE BURGER ADVENTURE
The Burger Adventure is a blog that reviews the best burgers from Australia
and around the world. Created by four guys with a passion for beef, buns,
cheese, lettuce, tomato, onion, egg, bacon and sauce.
Authors: Brendan Kennedy, David Silcock, George Vafeas and Zenon Predecki.
WWW.THE BURGERADVENTURE.COM
198 Barkly Street, St Kilda. Ph: 0415 470 164
Words and photos by The Burger Adventure
BURGER: SERVIETTES: DRESS CODE: SLEEPINESS: WOULD WE RECOMMEND: PRICE:
Perry 3 Casual 10 minutes Definitely $9.50
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So Hairy says to me he wants meat pies for lunch. Once upon a time I
would have cussed and moaned that it takes way too long. But now I own a
pressure cooker.
It is still a scary experience (why does it have to sound so evil – spitting and
hissing at me like there’s a filthy big dragon in there) and I still haven’t fully
worked it out, but my oh my, how good are these.
I’m not bothering with homemade pastry, I’m saving that for my retirement
years, but this device could be the answer to all of my impatient cooking
foibles. It took about 75 minutes from start to finish including preparation
– previously it would have taken hours in the oven to get the meat just nice
and tender.
I looked and looked for a recipe online but in the end I threw caution to the
wind and threw bits of this and pieces of that into the cooker and hit the dial.
Hairy had two, I had one (he is having the rest for breakfast today – he’s not
a Weetbix kid). I can’t wait to make ‘party’ sized versions of these. I could
freeze them, right?
So here is my pressure cooker ‘Steak and Mushroom’ pie. I will add the regular
method at the end too.
INGREDIENTS:
1kg trimmed chuck steak
500g mushrooms, sliced
3 carrots, diced
1 onion, chunkily diced
1 heaped tbsp tomato paste
400ml beef stock
1 tsp thyme
1 tsp oregano
1 tbsp cornflour (made into a runny paste with about 1.5 tablespoons of
water)
Puff pastry
1 egg, whisked
Salt and pepper
Pressure cooker method
Turn your cooker to the ‘saute’ function and brown onions, carrot and steak
until browned, for about 6 minutes. Pour in your stock and tomato paste,
add herbs and season well, then seal the pressure cooker (which always feels
‘space shuttle-y’ to me). Turn the pressure dial to high and set the timer for
30 minutes. Vacuum your living room whilst you wait.
Preheat your oven to 200°C and about 15 minutes before the cooker ends,
heat a frying pan with a dash of butter, a drop of oil and/or nothing at all if
you are one of the Teflon cookware brigade (we are of the stainless steel
brigade which makes omelettes a bloody nightmare!), anyway, I digress…
Throw your mushrooms into the frying pan and cook until browned and all
water has been removed (because mushrooms are full of water, you know).
This should take about 10 minutes to get them truly browned and maybe
even a little bit crispy. The smell is unreal.
Release the steam from the pressure cooker according to your manual (this
is the BEST bit – so noisy, so steamy) and then remove your lid and stir the
mushrooms in. You could put the mushrooms in at the beginning, but then
they will just be a bit slimy – eeww – so cook them separately and stir them
in at the end.
The beef mixture will be a bit watery but an amazing colour. Stir in your corn
flour paste and if necessary turn the pressure to ‘saute’ mode again. This will
just give it some heat whilst the corn flour is thickening the gravy.
Line your greased pie dish with pastry, spoon in the meat mixture so it is
just making a mound (does that make sense?), and top with pastry. Seal the
edges (I do mine with a fork) and brush the top with beaten egg. Bake for 20
minutes. Purists may blind bake their pastry first. I’m not a purist, I’m a hurry-
up-and-feed-me-ist so I didn’t think it is necessary, but feel free to do so.
Tomato sauce. Chips. Good to go.
OVEN METHOD:
In addition to the ingredients above, you will need ½ cup of plain flour.
Sauté your onions and carrots in a heavy casserole dish with a slug of oil.
Throw your beef into a plastic bag with about half a cup of flour and salt and
pepper to taste. Shake around until all the beef is covered. I usually then tip
it into a colander to remove the excess flour.
Brown your beef in batches, scraping the bottom of the dish, add herbs,
stock and tomato paste. With your oven set at about 150°C, cook your beef
for about 4 hours, longer if you can but keep checking. The plain flour should
have thickened up the gravy, but if not, use the corn flour method above.
Follow on from the pastry section.
Tomato sauce. Chips. Good to go.
RECIPE: STEAK AND MUSHROOM PIE
ABOUT THE PINK LEOPARDThe Pink Leopard is an heroic, moral cat with pink fur and the manners of an English aristocrat. She only becomes flustered or angry at obtuse or offensive humans who try to disrupt her existence, or at troublesome gadgets, rodents or insects. In
most of her life, she stumbles into a difficult situation and stoically endeavours to make the best of it. All the while cooking.
WWW.THEPINKLEOPARD.NET
Recipe and photos by The Pink Leopard
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TEN MINUTES BY TRACTOR McCutcheon Pinot Noir 2010
Mornington Peninsula, Victoria. RRP: $77.00
Some people may recoil in horror when they discover that this little lady
knows how to operate a tractor. It was part of an invaluable traineeship when
I worked for a year in a vineyard. I like the name behind the winery ‘Ten
Minutes By Tractor’, although the notion of it taking ten minutes by tractor
between vineyards is a questionable one. I say this because it would depend
on whether you are cruising at the leisurely speed of an old lady or, if instead,
you’re ‘fanging it’ illegally down the desolate back roads like someone (ahem)
may have done in the past… perhaps for legalities sake, I’ll roll with the former.
Ten Minutes By Tractor has been producing top quality Mornington Peninsula
Pinot Noir and Chardonnay for just over a decade. Their three vineyards
named Judd, Wallis and McCutcheon are only a short distance from one
another yet display wonderfully different features. The Judd Pinot Noir runs a
thick, savoury path with lots of earthy aromas, while the Wallis leans towards
the spicier spectrum with a more mineral and crisp finish. In the end I found
the wine produced from the McCutcheon vineyard to be the most ethereal
and complete. It captured me with its dusty pink hue and Burgundy-esque
tones, the dark and earthy spices interwoven with wild berries, topped with a
crisp and refined grip on the finish. The McCutcheon Pinot Noir will continue
to seduce over a couple of hours, so pour it into a big Burgundy glass and
serve it alongside suckling pig, mustard and truffle jus, roasted vegetables
and crackling. Well, that is what they did at the winery’s restaurant and boy
oh boy it worked a charm. Available through independent wine retailers.
JAMSHEED WINES La Syrah 2011
70% Yarra Valley & 30% Pyrenees, Victoria. RRP $21.00
The Jamsheed name was derived from an endearing tale drawn from ancient
writings of a Persian king. King Jamsheed was fond of fresh grapes and
would store them in jars over the winter where they would spontaneously
ferment. He set these jars aside and labeled them ‘poison’. One of the women
from the King’s harem, despairing of frequent migraines, chose to commit
suicide and drank from one of the poisoned jars. Awakening the next day,
she found herself miraculously cured of her migraines and informed the
king of the natural powers within his jars. The King was so pleased that
he set about making many jars of ‘poison’. This is just one story of how wine
was discovered.
Winemaker Gary Mills has adhered to the ‘natural powers’ worshipped by
King Jamsheed with the La Syrah 2011 forming part of Jamsheed’s Harem
Series. This unfined and unfiltered wine is a multi-regional blend from two
cool-climate Victorian regions – the Yarra Valley and the Pyrenees. There are
not a lot of wines under $25 that beg for a decent decant prior to drinking
but this is one of those rare occasions when the wine will benefit from a good
slosh of air. After a little air, interesting tart pink grapefruit notes become
discernible followed by plump purple fruits. These flavours are accentuated
by the fact that this has had 80 per cent whole bunches of grapes in the
ferment. It’s spicy and sappy, fresh and raw, and if the tale runs true, La Syrah
could be the breakthrough cure that migraine sufferers have been looking
for. Available at Randall’s Wine Merchant and Wine House.
FRANK CAMORRA Tempranillo 2010
Margaret River, Western Australia. RRP $40.50
Just when you thought celebrity chefs have enough restaurants, cookbooks,
television appearances and supermarket promotions under their belt, you
are proven wrong. This time, they’re taking over the winery! Okay, that’s an
exaggeration, but they have been approached by the Wine Selectors Group
to put their names to a collection of wines made around Australia that will
pair nicely alongside their style of food. It’s a nice idea to encourage the
concept of food and wine matching to a wider audience.
Take Mr Frank Camorra and his robust Spanish menu of MoVida fame.
Tempranillo is unarguably a natural partner for his elegant yet bold Spanish
cuisine. This native Spanish grape is popularly grown in a number of regions
in Australia. In this particular case, we are looking at Margaret River. This
wine possesses that tarry, gravelly tannic grip you like to see in a Tempranillo
complemented by earthy, plum flavours and a bright, balanced acidity. The
mid-length finish falls a little short of making this a big blockbuster style,
but that also means it sits comfortably with a wide range of dishes that
you will discover during a visit to MoVida. This wine is served in the MoVida
restaurants or is available through Wine Selectors.
WINE REVIEWS
ABOUT KRYSTINA MENEGAZZOLa Donna del Vino is the pseudonym of this young lady from Melbourne who completed her winemaking degree whilst being a gypsy working in vintages throughout Australia and Italy. Finally she decided to return home and sell wine instead. In her spare time she cooks, eats, drinks buon vino and is a self-confessed Neb Head (someone really into Nebbiolo).
WWW.LADONNADELVINO.COM
Words and photos by Krystina Menegazzo
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Tkg $12,000 - $15,000 pw, High St, Thornbury, 4.5 days closed Sunday evening, Monday & Tuesday, lease 15 yrs, rent $650 pw, well equipped, licensed 67, court yard & function room $335,000Call Mino 0414 886 364
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restaurantLivingroom
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Coffee Army
finalist
top 30 cafes
in Melb 2012
Join us for a fun, rustic & relaxed wine dinner with Adam Marks of Bress Wines. Our head chef Michael Hermans & his team will create a menu featuring produce from the Bress garden & a spit roasted main course. Dinner will be matched to a selection of Bress wines & cider, including the Gold Chook Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Shiraz & Bon Bon Cider.
Bress Wine Dinner With ADAm mArks ROyal Mail HOtel ON SPeNCeR
Bookings essential Phone 9329 6955 or email theroyalmail@ymail.comwww.theroyalmail.com.au
WHEN: thursday 19th July 6.30pm for 7pm
WHERE: Royal Mail Hotel on Spencer 519 Spencer Street West Melbourne
COST: $90.00 per person all inclusive
SCaN taG FOR eVeNt iNFO
SCAN TAG TO VISIT WEBSITE
Hidden deep in the woods is a secret lodge where you can hide from the world, or sit in the trees and plan your conquest of it. The choice is entirely yours!
Carlton’s only small bar with a rooftop!
Enter off Jimmy Watson Lane (cnr Lygon & Elgin) Carlton 3053 | Tel: 03 9348 0385 | Open Wed to Sat 5pm till late, Sun 12pm till late
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bloCK PlaCeBrown Sugar CaféCafé E BiscottiCafé NegritaCafé Segovia
bourKe streetAljisen RamenBottega RestaurantButchers GrillCa De VinCafé EuroCafé On BourkeCafé TonoCafenaticsCarlton ClubDeganiDonatos CaféEarl CanteenElephant and WheelbarrowFlorentino BarGloria JeansGPO Café Imperial HotelIto Noodle CaféIzakaya HachibehKorovaLanes Edge BarLangleys CaféMovida TerrazzaNando'sNudel BarPellegrinis Red ViolinRomano'sRoyal Melbourne HotelSalidaShuji SushiSociety RestaurantSpaghetti TreeSpleen BarSquires Loft SteakhouseStreet CaféThe BundThe Mess HallTuscan Bar GrillTwenty Seconds CaféThe Harbour Kitchen
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Cbd distributor list
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LITTLE BOURKE STREETBar HumbugBrother Baba BudanCafé 600 (Hotel Ibis)Ishiya Stonegrill DiningKorean BBQ BuffetKri KriLa Di DaLittle BLongrainMezzo Bar and GrillMrs ParmasPlus 39 PizzaPunch LaneScugnizzoSection 8 (Chinatown)Shuji sushiSMXL CaféSoftbelly BarSorry GrandmaSushi & Bon ApetitThe ApartmentVine Café Bar
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LITTLE LONSDALE STREET1000 Pound Bend166 Espresso BarAngliss RestaurantCafé 111Café 18Don TooEquinoxGianni LuncheonGiraffe CaféHorse BazaarIl VicolettoKoukos CaféMatchModo Mio CaféOddfellows HotelRue BebelonsSeamstressShop 7 EspressoStrikeThe Little Café on Healeys LaneTroika BarYork Café
LONSDALE STREETAspro BleBabboBaguette ClubBarakiClub RetroColonial HotelDeganiDemi TasseEmerald PeacockEncore Café BarGolden MonkeyHikari SushiJ Walk CaféJapanese Pub ShogunKenny's BakeryLatteLove CaféLe TraiteurLegals Café BarMadame Kay'sUrban DeliWheat Restaurant Bar
MEYERS PLACELily BlacksLoopWaiters Restaurant
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RANKINS LANEManchester Press
RUSSELL STREETA1 Café RestaurantBean RoomBlu Point CaféCafé 294 Chilli CaféChina BarHawkers CaféIan Potter CentreInfinity Café BarIshikai Japanese caféIzakaya Den (Basement)James Squire BrewhouseKing of KingsPostal HallRed HummingbirdSeoul HouseSyn BarTeppansanThe Portland HotelTwo FingersWon Ton HouseZmeg's Café
SPENCER STREETCarron TavernPensione Hotel
SPRING STREETAppitizer KubklamCafé 201City Wine ShopElms Family HotelFederici CaféHudson's CoffeeLime Café BarThe European
SWANSTON STREET3 BelowBeer DeluxeCafé L'IncontroCafé MimoCiti EspressoClaypot KingCrown Café BakeryDruids Café BarEasy Way TeaGiGi Sushi BarGogo SushiHi Fi Bar and BallroomMelbourne Town HallNando'sNelayan IndonesianOld Town
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ThE CAUSEWAYGrasshopper’s Feast
WILLIAM STREETIllia Café and BarLa Stradda CaféSlateThe Mint
QUEEN STREETBellini (ANZ Building)Chaise LoungeDeganiMercat Cross HotelMichaelangeloMuleta'sNashi NourishRomano'sSegafredoSparrow’s NestSpeck
There are an additional 780 distributors around Melbourne. For the full list, visit our website at www.gram.net.au.
MELBOURNE ISSUE 17 FREE