Post on 18-Apr-2015
WINTERTemplate“quality inspection
& Defects in apparels”
PRESENTED BY
•ABHISHEK ( )•DILIP SINGH ( )•KUMAR SARVESH ( )•RAJEEV SHARAN ( )
01QUALITY
•Ideal condition of excellence.
•Product quality is based on a product attribute.•User-based quality is fitness for use,
• manufacturing based quality is conformance to requirements,
•value based quality is the degree of excellence at an
acceptable price
ISO 9000:2000 Defines it as “degree to which a set of inherent
characteristics fulfill requirement.”
02
Quality inspection in apparel industries:
“Visual examination or review of raw materials, partially finished
components of garments and completely finished garments in
relation to some standards, specifications, or requirements, as
well as measuring garments to check if they meet the required
measurements.”
03
Quality inspection in apparel industries:
•done to control quality of garments.
•Checking of fabric,
•sewing thread,
•button,
•stitch,
• zipper,
•garments size etc
according to required standard or specification is
known as inspection.
•Quality inspection is important for every section of apparel
industries.
04
Steps in apparel industries to control quality
1. Raw Material Inspection;
2. In Process Inspection;
3. Final Inspection;
05
Raw Material Inspection:
•Fabric Inspection
•Sewing Thread Inspection
•Trims & Accessories check
06
• done through Fabric Inspection machine.
• very important for every industries .
• In fabric inspection their checks several things i.e. in fabric are
there any defect available or not. In fabric, fabric defects viz.
off shade or shade variation, hole in fabric, barre effect etc.
can be visual after entering into the store room. For those
defects it will be problem able for making garments making.
• In fabric inspection, also check fabric strength, color, quantity
To check fabric there are different system i.e. 4 point system,
10 point system etc.
Fabric Inspection
07Fabric Inspection Machine
Overall view of Pernick’s Tilt -A- View Machine
08Fabric Inspection Machine
Operational view of Pernick’s Tilt -A- View Machine
09Fabric Inspection Machine
Overall view of Pernick’s True- Matic Inspection Machine
10
Sewing Thread Inspection
During stitching fabric frequently brakeage of sewing thread
is one of the great problems for garments manufacturing. So
that it is necessary to check
•thread construction,
•sewability,
•color,
•imperfection,
• finish, package
•density,
•winding,
•yardage of sewing thread.
11
Sewing Thread Inspection
•In thread construction
•thread number,
•thread ply,
•thread tenacity,
•thread elongation,
•number of twist
is necessary to check.
12
Trims & Accessories check
•Button,
•Zippers
• interlining,
• label &
•tags
also need to check so that quality can be maintain according
to required quality.
•For button,
•button strength,
• button color,
• quantity etc
are checked.
13
• Inspecting different parts of garments before sewing are
called in process inspection.
• It starts from marker making, than fabric spreading, fabric
cutting, fabric sewing, pressing or finishing checking is done
in process.– marker making
– fabric spreading
– fabric cutting
– sorting/ bundling
– fabric sewing
– seam defects
– assembly defects
– pressing/ finishing defects
In Process Inspection
14
Factors which must be checked
• It is necessary to check all the parts of garments pattern are in
marker.
• In marker labelling or coding of pattern should be checked
• Pattern direction should be checked.
• The entire pattern are sated correctly.
• Pattern grain line is very important thing which must be
considered during marker making.
• During marker making every pattern pieces dimension should be
accurate.
• During marker making fabric length and width should be
considered.
• Marker width
• Notches & drill marks
• Knife clearance
• Checks and stripes (mittering)
Marking inspection
Pattern Grading Defects
1. Grade Not Conforming to Specification measurements
Finished product not measuring to specified dimension and
component parts not fitting in relationship to notches, openings and
seams such as armholes sleeve heads neck bands, neck openings
and side seams inseams, waist measurements and etc.
2. Distorted Grading:
Unbalanced patterns which would cause twisted seams, puckering,
pleating and a general uneconomical yardage waste.
Marking defects1.Shaded Parts:- All component pans not included in same section.
2. Pieces not Symmetrical:-Will not sew together without puckering or
pleating.
3. Not Marked by Directional Lines:-Bias will not lit together, causing
twisting, puckering. pleating and a general mismatching of component
parts.
4. Skimpy marking:-Marker did not use outside perimeter of pattern.
Pattern moved after partially marked to fit into space.
5. Notches and Punch Marks:-Left out., not clearly marked or misplaced.
6. Marker Too Wide:-Parts will not catch in lay, causing skimpy garments or
requiring results.
7 Marker Too Narrow:-Results In wasted material.
8. Mismatched Plaids-Marker did not block component parts to match.
9. Misdirected Napping:-Patterns not marked in same direction and napped
fabrics.
17
Factors which must be checked
• Fabric Nature
• Ply alignment
• Ply tension/slackness
• Bowing
• Splicing
• Grain-line
• Shade variation
• Selvedge alignment & tightness
• Fabric width
• Checks
• Static electricity
Spreading inspection
Spreading Defects
1. Uneven Spreading:- Front edge of lay is not even, resulting in front or back
edge of marker not catching all ply.
2·. Narrow Material:- Bolts or rolls of material too narrow to cover marker
width.
3. Missed Sectional Breaks:- Sectional marker breaks too long or too short.
Parts in lay will be short or material wasted.
4. Improper Tension:- Cloth spread too tight or too loose, causing parts not to
fit in sewing or distorting dimensions of garments.
5. Mismatching Plaids:- Material spread too loose or too tight causing plaid
lines to run diagonally or bow.
6. Misdirected Napping:- Air pockets not removed. Napped material reversed
in spreading.
7. Improper Matching of Face of Material:-Not spread face down, face up or
face to face as required.
19
Factors/defects which must be checked
• Frayed edge
• Fuzzy, ragged or serrated edges
• Ply to ply fusion
• Single edge fusion
• Pattern precision
• Notches & drillers
• Cutting Equipment precision
Cutting inspection
Cutting Defects
1.Marker or Perforator:- Not stapled or stencilled on lay to catch both edges
causing parts to miss in cutting. Too tight or too loose, distorting dimensions of
garment. Perforated stencil ,not powdered or inked, sufficiently to show distinct
lines, notches and punch marks.
2. Misplaced Piece Rate Tickets or Bundle Members:-Attached to, or marked on,
wrong bundles, causing mixed sizes or land shades.
3. Drill Marks:- Drill marks misplaced, not perpendicular, omitted or wrong side drill
used.
4. Opening Slits:- Cut under above to the side or at incorrect angle. Not cut
through entire bundle or omitted.
5. Improper Cutting:- Not following marker lines, resulting in distorted parts. Letting
knife lean causing top and bottom ply to be of different sizes.
6. Notches:- Misplaced, too deep, too shallow or omitted.
7. Oil Spots:- Equipment improperly oiled or cleaned.
8. Improper Knife Sharpening:-Causing ragged, frayed or fused edges on
bundles.
9. Knife or Scissor Cut:-Piece damaged by over run in cutting previous piece.
21
• It is necessary to check numbering, sorting, and bundling is
done accurately.
Sorting/ Bundling inspection
Defects.
1. Not Stacked in Numerical Order: Bundle numbers not in
order on rack skid or box.
2. Matching Linings: Wrong size or wrong material.
22
• Most large & important section.
• Necessary to check all the machine operators work.
• Some common faults and problems must be considered
– Sewing defects
– Seaming defects
– Assembly defects
– Pressing or Finishing defects
Sewing inspection
23
Stitching Defects
• Needle damage
• Skipped stitch
• Thread breaks
• Seam pucker
• Wrong stitch density
• Uneven stitch
• Staggered stitch
• Improperly formed stitch
Sewing inspection
24Sewing inspectionStitching Defect Cause
Machine do not run Not plugged in or turned on
Outlet switch off.
Circuit breakdown.
Machine do not stitch properly Machine dirty.
Machine incorrectly threaded
Needle needs replacement.
Machine does not feed
properly
Insufficient or too much
pressure on pressure foot
Stitch length too short.
25Sewing inspection
Stitching Defect Cause
Skip stitching Machine incorrectly threaded.
Machine dirty
Needle damage/needle set or
threaded incorrectly.
Needle makes hole too large or
too short
Needle too much fine for thread
Thread tension too tight/ thread
stretches when heated.
Machine timing needs adjustment
Fabric not held properly.
27Sewing inspectionStitching Defect Cause
Skip stitching (overedge
machines)
Loopers are incorrectly set.
Needle to looper relation incorrect.
Wrong type thread.
Skip stitching (blindstitch
machines)
Stitch-depth too shallow.
Wavy seams Stitch length too short.
Pressure too heavy or light
Wavy seams (overedge machine) Differential feed needs increasing
28Sewing inspection
Stitching Defect Cause
puckering Light weight fabric, wash & wear, tightly woven.
Seam on straight grain.
Fabric not held properly.
Thread tension too tight.
Needle needs replacing.
Thread wrong size for needle/ threads are
different on bobbin & needle.
Too heavy pressure on foot.
Wrong stitch length.
Wrong seam class choice for material.
Puckering (overedge
machines)
Differential feed needs to be reduced.
29Sewing inspection
Stitching Defect Cause
Plies feed unevenly Pressure on foot incorrect.
Plies lock or stitch together.
Pressure foot sticks to material.
Garment sections are of different length.
Garment sections are cut on different grains.
Feed dog at incorrect height or badly worn.
Inappropriate pressure-foot.
Inappropriate needle plate.
Operator not feeding upper layer properly.
Wrong machine- use a needle-feed machine if
available.
30Sewing inspection
Stitching
Defect
Cause
Unbalanced
tension
Different thread on needle & bobbin.
Thread slipped out of tension disc.
Thread not feeding off cone or spool properly
Machine dirty.
Machine incorrectly threaded
Needle needs replacement/ set incorrectly
Poor quality of thread (too dry, coarse, fine etc).
Thread catches on rough surfaces of thread guide, throat
plate or thread spindle.
Bent, rusted, or incorrect bobbin/ improperly or unevenly
wound bobbin/ bobbin has several layers of
thread/bobbin thread out/ bobbin case screw has worked
out.
31Sewing inspectionStitching Defect Cause
Unbalanced tension
(overedge machine)
Looper tension needs adjustment
Uneven stitches Thread does not feed smoothly/ thread
has wrong twist/ thread incorrectly
threaded between tension discs.
Pressure too light.
Burns or rough spots along the path of
thread.
Operator not feeding properly
32Sewing inspection
Stitching Defect Cause
Cracked seam Machine dirty.
Lint between the tension discs, guides or
eyelets
Bobbin or looper thread tension too tight.
Needle too small or wrong point.
Inappropriate stitch length for material.
Too tight tension.
Thread not moving smoothly through guides or
eyelets. Thread too large or machine has rough
spots or burns.
Cracked seam
(overedge
machine)
Looper thread tension too tight.
33Sewing inspection
Stitching Defect Cause
Thread breakage Poor quality thread/ wrong size of thread.
Tension too tight.
Needle set improperly.
Machine dirty.
Machine incorrectly threaded
Needle needs replacement.
Pressure bar not down.
Take-up lever not in raised position at the beginning of
stitch.
Burns on needle eye, throat plate, guides or thread
spindle.
Operator pulling fabric during tension/ did not release
tension before removal of material.
34Sewing inspectionStitching Defect Cause
Thread breakage
(overedge machine)
Needle & looper need adjustment
Seam grin Stitch bight too narrow.
Stitch length too short.
Thread not set into tension discs
properly
Tension on needle thread too
loose.
Seam grin (overlock
machine)
Wrong stitch type
Tension needs adjustment.
35Sewing inspectionStitching
Defect
Cause
Machine jam Machine dirty.
Machine incorrectly threaded
Needle set incorrectly or damaged.
Static electricity pulls fabric into needle hole
Pressure bar not down.
Needle plate hole too large.
Threads not held at beginning.
Bobbin inserted incorrectly.
Pressure foot wrong type and not holding
fabric firmly.
36Sewing inspection
Stitching Defect Cause
Unthreading of
needle
Thread end too short.
Take-up lever not in its highest position.
Thread ends not held at beginning of stitch
Operator did not chainstitch.
Overedge
machine ragged
edges, trimmed
edges are
uneven
Knives blunt.
Knives incorrectly set.
Wrong choice of thread for fabric
Machine noisy Machine dirty
Damaged machine.
Needle dull, bent or set incorrectly
37Sewing inspectionStitching Defect Cause
Needle breakage Needle needs replacement/ set incorrectly.
Pressure foot too loose.
Bobbin or bobbin-case incorrectly set.
Operator stitching over pins or zippers.
Operator pulling fabric while stitching or without
raising pressure foot.
Upper tension too tight.
Incorrect size of needle or thread for material.
Fabric too thick.
Needle breakage
(overedge machine)
Needle hitting looper.
38Sewing inspection
Stitching Defect Cause
Bobbin thread
breakage (lockstitch
machine)
Machine dirty.
Improperly threaded machine.
Bobbin or bobbin-case incorrectly set.
Bobbin tension too tight.
Bobbin too full.
Thread unevenly wound on bobbin
Bobbin screw worked out and catching the
thread.
Spring on bobbin-case worn to a sharp groove.
Burns on throat plate or rotary hook.
Bobbin pigtail caught in bobbin-case
39
Pressing Defect Cause
Iron does not heat. Iron not plugged in or turned on.
Boiler not turned on.
Circuit breaker or outlet off.
Temperature control set too low
Iron spits Iron did not heat completely before use.
Temperature control set too low.
Steam control malfunctioned.
40
Seaming defects:
• Uneven width
• Fault stitch line
• Back stitch must be given properly
• Twisting
• Check or strip matching
• Seam matching
• Wrong stitch face side or back side;
• Thread color shade variation.
Sewing inspection
Restitched Seams / Broken Stitches
Excessive Restitched Seams
MINIMIZING THREAD
BREAKAGE:
1) Use a better quality sewing
thread. This may include going to a
higher performance thread
designed to minimize sewing
interruptions. (See the Thread
Selection Guide and/or
Minimizing Thread Breakage &
Skipped Stitches);
2) Insure proper machine
maintenance and sewing machine
adjustments;
3) Make sure sewing machines are
properly maintained and adjusted
for the fabric and sewing operation.
(See Machine Maintenance
Checklist.);
4) Observe sewing operators for
correct material handling
techniques.
DESCRIPTION: Where a "splice"
occurs on the stitch line. If this occurs
on Topstitching, then the seam does not
appear to be 1st quality merchandise.
Caused by 1) thread breaks or thread
run-out during sewing; or 2) cut or broken
stitches during a subsequent treatment of
the finished product (i.e., stone washing).
•Open Seam - Seam Failure - Stitch
• DESCRIPTION: Where the
threads in the seam have
ruptured leaving a hole in the stitch
line.
Caused by
• 1) Improper stitch for application;
• 2)Inadequate thread strength for
seam;
• 3) Not enough stitches per inch.
MINIMIZING SEAM FAILURES -
STITCH:
1) Use a better quality sewing thread.
This may include going to a higher
performance thread designed to give
greater seam performance. (See the
Thread Selection Guide.);
2) Use the proper size thread for the
application;
3) For knit fabrics, check for "Stitch
Cracking". Stitch Cracking can be
caused by any of the following: not
enough stitches per inch; improper seam
width or needle spacing for application;
improper stitch balance; and improper
thread selection.
Open Seam - Seam Failure - Fabric
• DESCRIPTION:
Where the stitch
line is still intact but
the yarns in the fabric
have ruptured.
MINIMIZING SEAM FAILURES -
FABRIC:
1)Reinforce stress points with
Bartacks. Make sure the bartacks are
the proper length and width for the
application;
2) Check to make sure the patterns
have been designed for proper fit;
3) Make sure the ideal seam
construction is being used;
4) Contact your fabric supplier.
Bartacks Used to Reinforce Fly Seam
Seam Failure - Seam Slippage
• DESCRIPTION: Where the yarns
in the fabric pull out of the seam
from the edge. This often occurs on
fabrics constructed of continuous
filament yarns that are very smooth
and have a slick surface. Also
caused by loosely constructed
fabrics.
MINIMIZING SEAM FAILURES –
SEAM SLIPPAGE:
1) Consider changing the seam
construction to a French seam
construction;
2)Increase the seam width or width
of bite;
3)Optimize the stitches per inch; 4)
Contact your fabric supplier.
Seam Slippage on Rayon Fabric
Needle Cutting on Knits
• DESCRIPTION: Where needle holes
appear along the stitch line that will
eventually turn into a "run". Generally
caused by the needle damaging the
fabric as it is penetrating the seam.
MINIMIZING NEEDLE CUTTING
ON KNITS:
1)Make sure the proper thread
size and needle type and size
are being used for the fabric
2) Make sure the fabric has
been properly stored to prevent
drying out and has been finished
properly;
3) Check with your fabric
manufacturer.
•Excessive Seam Puckering - Wovens
DESCRIPTION: Where the seam does
not lay flat and smooth along the
stitchline.
Caused by one of the following:
1) Feed Puckering - where the plies of
fabric in the seam are not being
aligned properly during sewing;
2) Tension Puckering - where the thread
has been stretched and sewn into the
seam. The thread then causes the
seam to draw back and pucker;
3) Yarn Displacement or structural
jamming - caused by sewing seams
with too large of thread that causes
the yarns in the seam to be displaced,
giving a puckered appearance.
MINIMIZING EXCESSIVE SEAM PUCKERING:
1)Use the correct thread type and size for the fabric. In many cases, a
smaller, higher tenacity thread is required to minimize seam
puckering but maintain seam strength
2) Sew with minimum sewing tension to get a balanced stitch;
3) Make sure machines are set up properly for the fabric being sewn;
4) Check for proper operator handling techniques.
•Puckered Seams -
Knits & Stretch
Woven
SOLUTIONS:
1) If sewing machines are equipped with
differential feed, set them properly for the
fabric;
2) Use minimum presser foot pressure during
sewing; and
3) Observe operator for correct handling
techniques. Too much stretching of the fabric
by the sewing operator will cause this
problem.
DESCRIPTION: Where
the seam does not lay
flat after stitching.
•Excessive Seam Grin
DESCRIPTION: Where the
stitch balance is not properly
adjusted (stitch too loose) and
you can see the seam opening
up. To check for Seam Grin,
apply normal seam stress across
the seam and then remove the
stress. If the seam remains
opened, then the seam has too
much "grin through".
SOLUTIONS: To correct, readjust the
sewing machine thread tensions so that
the proper stitch balance is achieved.
Too much tension will cause other
problems including seam failures ("Stitch
Cracking"), excessive thread breakage,
and skipped stitches.
•Improper Stitch Balance - 301 Lockstitch
DESCRIPTION: Where loops
are seen either on the
bottomside or topside of the
seam. This is particularly
evident with different colored
needle and bobbin threads.
Also, where the stitch is too
loose.
SOLUTIONS:
1) Use a quality thread with
Consistent frictional
characteristics;
2) Properly balance the stitch so
that the needle and bobbin
threads meet in the middle of
the seam. Always start by
checking the bobbin thread
tension to make sure it is set
correctly, so that the minimum
thread tension is required to get
a balanced stitch.
•Improper Stitch Balance - 401 Chainstitch
DESCRIPTION: Where
the loops on the
bottomside of the seam are
inconsistent and do not
appear uniform.
SOLUTIONS:
1) Use a quality thread with
consistent frictional characteristics;
2) Properly balance the stitch so that
when the looper thread is
unraveled, the needle loop lays
over half way to the next needle
loop on the underside of the seam
•Improper Stitch
Balance - 504
Overedge Stitch
DESCRIPTION: Where the
needle loop is not pulled up
to the underside of the seam
and the"purl" is not on the
edge of the seam.
SOLUTIONS:
1) Use a quality thread with consistent
frictional characteristics
2) Properly balance the stitch so that when the
looper thread is unraveled, the needle loop
lays over half way to the next needle loop on
the underside of the seam.
•Ragged/Inconsistent Edge - Overedge Or
Safety stitch Seams
DESCRIPTION: Where the edge
of the seam is either extremely
"ragged" or "rolls" inside the stitch.
SOLUTIONS:
1) Make sure the sewing machine
knives are sharpened and changed
often;
2) The knives should be adjusted
properly in relationship to the "stitch
tongue" on the needle plate to obtain
the proper seam width or width bite.
In the photo, the trimming knives
have been set wider than the "stitch
tongue" on the needle plate causing
the "ropy" appearance.
56
Assembly defects:
• Finished component of not accurate size.
• Garments not accurate in size.
• If any design skip to join.
• Component is not joining in right place.
• If lining is tight or loose.
• If parts direction is wrong.
Sewing inspection
57
Pressing or Finishing:
• Fabric burn or burn spot attach with body.
• Any types of water spot.
• Color shading occurs because of hot ironing.
• Button is insecure or broken.
• Garments are folding accurately.
• Pocket is pressed smoothly and except fold.
• Garments shape is accurate.
“Stains, Wrinkles, Correct labels, Any thing that detracts from
overall appearance”
Sewing inspection
58
Folding defects
• garment is not folded to specification
• garment not folded with proper material like cardboard,
tissues or other material.
• incorrect pins or folds
• garment not buttoned
• label not showing
Sewing inspection
59
• In final inspection generally inspect fully complete garments.
Before final inspection there has no chance to check complete
garments. It is important from the buyer to finally check. In
final inspection normally garments size, form fitting, fabric
faults are check.
Final Inspection
60
• A zone- the defects of the garment which is visible when it
is packed.
• B zone- the defects of the garment which is visible when
garment is opened flat.
• C zone- the defects which can be seen when the garment is
turned.
– A defect in “A” zone is considered more serious than a
defect in “B” zone
– A defect in “B” zone is considered more serious than a
defect in “C” zone
and will be categorised accordingly.
DEFECT ZONES
Critical defects list
61Garment No-01 (Shirt)
62DEFECT ZONES
63Shirt inspection check list
No Location Inspect for
01 Collar Both points are same or not, strip or check is match accurately,
stitch, collar flat or not.
02 Size Size label is in correct place, and every parts size is correct or not.
03 Button & button
hole
Placed in right place or not, evenness of gap between one button to
other, stitch is done correctly, are there any broken button or not.
04 Pocket Pocket upper edge horizontal or not, pocket position, size, stitch,
stripe or check is match, flat or not.
05 Hem Stitch, are there any puckering occur or not, edge free from stitch.
06 Yoke & shoulder Stitch, puckering problem, skipped stitch.
07 Side seam Pattern matching, stitch, free from raw edge.
08 Cuffs Strips or check matching, top stitch, flat or not.
09 Finished
appearance
Threads edge comes out or not, are there any oil spot or not, fabric
fault, color matching, strip matching.
64Causes & Remedies
Location Defects Causes Remedies
Collar Both points are not aligned. Pattern mistake Proper pattern marking
strip or check is not match
accurately/stitch
Pattern mistake Proper mitering
collar flat or not Improper Stitch/seam Proper folding &
stitching
Size Incorrect size parts Improper ticketing &
bundling
Proper ticketing &
bundling
Button &
button hole
Not placed in right place Improper marking Proper marking
unevenness of gap between
one button to other
Improper measuring &
marking
Proper marking
stitch is done correctly/ extra
thread
Improper stitching/
machine settings
Proper setting of
machines
broken button Improper inspection Replace
Sleeve Unequal size Improper
measurement/stitching
Proper measurement,
marking, & stitch.
Location Defects Causes Remedies
Pocket Improper positioning & stitch Improper marking/stitch Proper marking &
stitch
Hem puckering, raw edge. Improper machine
settings/ fabric
type/stitch
Proper settings, fabric
type & stitch
Yoke &
shoulder
Stitch, puckering problem,
skipped stitch.
Machine setting/
workmanship
Proper machine
setting &
workmanship
Side seam Improper pattern matching,
stitch, raw edge
Improper pattern/stitch Proper marking &
stitch (by aligning
edges)
Cuffs Strips or check not matching Improper marking. Proper marking
Improper top stitch, not flat Slippage of back side or
improper stitch
Folders may be used
Finished
appearance
Extra threads edge Floatation on seam Cut it.
strip matching Improper
spreading/marking
Spread & mark
properly
fabric fault Improper fabric
Inspection etc.
Splicing or other fault
recovery processes
Shade variation Improper spreading Shade sorting during
spreading
66A zone Defects
1.Collar
Inspection of Sample (Shirt)
Defects Causes Remedies
uneven (edges are
not on a straight
horizontal line)
Improper marking Marking should be accurate
with proper techniques of
stitching Operator’s fault
Cutting faults Appropriate equipments
Unequal
dimensions
Improper marking Proper marking with skilled
stitching.
Overstretched fabric Accurate tension over fabric
67A zone Defects
2. Front placket
Inspection of Sample (Shirt)
Defects Causes Remedies
baggy (fullness) at
collar.
Improper marking Marking should be accurate(in
terms of measurement & relative
positioning of button &
buttonholes) with proper
techniques of stitching
Operator’s fault
Button holes are not
according to button
placement
68A zone Defects
3. Labels
Inspection of Sample (Shirt)
Defects Causes Remedies
Not placed at (with
the reference of
centre back)
Improper marking Marking should be accurate(in
terms of measurement & relative
positioning of labels & tags) with
proper techniques of stitching
Operator’s fault
65A zone Defects
4. Pocket
Inspection of Sample (Shirt)
Defects Causes Remedies
Mitering defects Improper marking Marking should be accurate
with proper techniques of
stitching.Operator’s fault
Cutting faults Appropriate equipments
Extra thread Improper inspection Proper inspection & extra
thread should be trimmed.
Floated on seam Appropriate equipments
should be used to avoid this.
70A zone Defects
5. Button holes
Inspection of Sample (Shirt)
Defects Causes Remedies
Extra thread Improper inspection Inspection should be proper.
Floated on the seam Appropriate equipments
should be used to avoid this.
Improper stitch Inaccurate setting of
machine
Machine setting should be
accurate.
Wrong type of thread Thread should be inspected
in terms of tenacity, count,
ply, twist etc.
71B zone Defects
Inspection of Sample (Shirt)
72B zone Defects
1. Armhole
Inspection of Sample (Shirt)
Defects Causes Remedies
Misaligned
seam
Improper pattern
making & marking
Pattern should be accurately developed
with accurate marking.
Operators fault Should be aligned with skilled stitching.
Improper stitch
(not uniformly
distant with
armhole seam)
Operators fault Should be done with proper
workmanship.
73B zone Defects
2. Yoke
Inspection of Sample (Shirt)
Defects Causes Remedies
Mitering defect Improper marking Marking should be accurate.
74B zone Defects
3. Side seam
Inspection of Sample (Shirt)
Defects Causes Remedies
Mitering defect Improper marking Marking should be accurate.
75C zone Defects
1. Armhole seam
Inspection of Sample (Shirt)
Defects Causes Remedies
Raw edge Operator’s fault. Stitching should be proper.
Folders/templates may be used.
Roping
(puckering)
Pattern-making &
marking defect
Patterns should be accurately
developed with proper marking.
Stitching defect
(operator’s fault-applying
too much tension)
Should be done with proper skill &
workman ship
Machine fault Properly check the settings of
machine & its components.
76C zone Defects
2. Side seam slit
Inspection of Sample (Shirt)
Defects Causes Remedies
Raw edge Operator’s fault. Stitching should be proper.
Defects Causes Remedies
Raw edge Operator’s fault. Stitching should be proper.
3. Sleeve placket
77C zone Defects
4. Cuff seam
Inspection of Sample (Shirt)
Defects Causes Remedies
Top stitch not
covering the
back fabric of
cuff seam
Operator’s fault. Stitching should be proper.
Slippage of fabric
during top stitch.
Folders/templates may be used.
78
shade variation no
Pieces not symmetrical no
Misdirected napping -
Improper tension while
spreading
no
Uneven spreading no
Misplacement of marker
while cutting
yes
Improper cutting no
Improper knife sharpening -
Improper drill and notch
marks
-
Incorrect size cutting no
Analysis of garment 1 as per cutting room defects:
Analysis of garment 1 as per sewing room defects:
Needle damage no
Skipped stitch yes
Thread break yes
Seam pucker yes
Wrong stitch density no
Uneven stitch no
Oil spots or stains no
Loose thread yes
Open seam yes
Run off yes
Improper thread tension yes
Broken stitch yes
Notch exposed no
Omission of any part of garment yes
Twisted seam yes
Pieces not aligned yes
Reverse pieces no
Excessive fullness no
Uneven edge yes
Ragged edge yes
Hole no
Misplaced components yes
Misaligned seam yes
Analysis of garment 1 as per finishing room defects:
Thread not trimmed yes
Seam tear yes
Inadequate pressing no
Garment not properly dried -
Pressing producing shine in fabric no
Labels not showing no
Cuts or nicks no
Location Inspect for Remedies
Collar Both points are same or not, accurately
stitch, collar flat or not.
Proper marking, stitching
Size Size label is in correct place, and every
parts size is correct or not
Proper labeling & bundling
Button &
button hole
Placed in right place or not, evenness of
gap between one button to other, stitch is
done correctly, are there any broken button
or not
Proper marking(measurement) & skilled
stitching
Pocket Pocket upper edge horizontal or not, pocket
position, size, stitch, stripe or check is
match, flat or not.
Proper marking for placement & skilled stitch
Hem Stitch, are there any puckering occur or not,
edge free from stitch.
Proper tension & skill during stitch
shoulder Stitch, puckering problem, skipped stitch
(proper over-lock).
Proper skill stitching& use of mobilon tape
Side seam Pattern matching, stitch, free from raw edge Avoid excess tension(force) with skilled
workmanship.
Sleeve hem Proper over-lock. Proper machine settings & skilled stitching
Finished
appearance
Threads edge comes out or not, are there
any oil spot or not, fabric fault, color
matching, strip matching.
Can be avoided during inspection.
Garment No -02 (Knitted T-Shirt)
83A zone Defects
1. Front placket
Garment no-02 (Knitted T-Shirt)
Defects Cause Remedies
gathering/
looseness at
placket
Fabric stretched during
stitching (too much
pressure at foot)
Set the machine
accurately according
the knitted fabric &
stitch properly
84A zone Defects
Garment no-02 (Knitted T-Shirt)
Defects Cause Remedies
Improper top
stitch
Fabric stretched during
stitching (too much pressure
at foot)
Set the machine
accurately according the
knitted fabric & stitch
properly
due to lack of proper stitching
(operator’s fault)
Align the seam properly
& stitch with skilled
workmanship
2. Collar
85B zone Defects
1. Armhole
Garment no-02 (Knitted T-Shirt)
Defects Cause Remedies
Not aligned
properly
Fabric stretched during
stitching (too much pressure
at foot)
Set the machine
accurately according the
knitted fabric & stitch
properly
due to lack of proper
marking/ proper stitching
by proper marking &
aligning the seam
accurately before stitch
86C zone Defects
1.Front placket
Garment no-02 (Knitted T-Shirt)
Defects Cause Remedies
Raw edges Operator’s fault. Properly inspect the
garment & Finish the edges
with overlock machines Improper inspection
87C zone Defects
2. Hem
Garment no-02 (Knitted T-Shirt)
Defects Cause Remedies
Raw edges Operator’s fault. Properly inspect the
garment & Finish the edges
with overlock machines Improper inspection
88C zone Defects
3. Collar edges
Garment no-02 (Knitted T-Shirt)
Defects Cause Remedies
Raw edges (edges
not finished properly)
Operator’s fault. Properly inspect the
garment & Finish the edges
with overlock machines Improper inspection
89
shade variation no
Pieces not symmetrical no
Misdirected napping no
Improper tension while
spreading
slight
Uneven spreading no
Misplacement of marker
while cutting
no
Improper knife sharpening no
Improper drill and notch
marks
no
Incorrect size cutting no
Analysis of garment 2 as per cutting room defects:
Analysis of garment 2 as per sewing room defects:
Needle damage no
Skipped stitch no
Thread break no
Seam pucker yes
Wrong stitch density no
Uneven stitch no
Oil spots or stains no
Loose thread no
Open seam no
Run off no
Improper thread tension no
Broken stitch no
Notch exposed no
Omission of any part of garment Yes (half moon
patch)
Twisted seam no
Pieces not aligned yes
Reverse pieces no
Excessive fullness no
Uneven edge yes
Ragged edge yes
Hole no
Misplaced components no
Misaligned seam yes
Analysis of garment 2 as per finishing room defects:
Thread not trimmed yes
Seam tear no
Inadequate pressing -
Garment not properly dried -
Pressing producing shine in fabric -
Incorrect pins or folds in garment -
Labels not showing no
Cuts or nicks no