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E X P L O R E L E A R N C O N S E R V E
WWW.MOUNTAINEERS.ORG
MountaineerMARCH/APRIL 2013 VOLUME 107 N
EVERESTAmericans on Everest
Perspectives: then and now
Mountaineers celebrate 50th
Training or the climb
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2 the mountaineer mar/apr 2013
inside
13 Jm WhttakerHs le leadg p t Eerest
17 A ss perspecteWhat Eerest meas t Le Whttaker
21 Hw t cdt r a EerestTraer, Mtaeer Crteay Schrma ers tps
23 Hkg s t ly r weekedsWrter talks abt her Mtaeers ater-hr hke
26 Wld d at yr eetSheep srrel, mers lettce, dadelall tasty
8 CONSERVATION CURRENTS
Deals hma waste seres a less t pack t t
10 REACHING OUT
Gg kds a leg p the tdrs ad le
28 GOING GLObALThe callg the Clrad Tral
31 MEMbERSHIP MATTERSY, r members, makg the derece
32 bRANCHING OUT
See whats gg rm brach t brach
37 bOOkMARkSRwg acrss the cea; Freddm Clmbers
39 GO GUIdE
Hw ad where y ca get tsde
47 LAST WORd
Geerats by Bret Bshp
DiSCovER THE MounTAinEERSi y are thkg jgr hae jed ad aret sre where t
startwhy t set a date t Meet The Mtaers? Check the
Brachg ot sect the magaze (page 32) r tmes ad
lcats rmatal meetgs at each r see braches.
Mar/Apr 2013 vlme 107 nmber 2
Enriching the community by helping people
explore, conserve, learn about, and enjoy the
lands and waters o the Pacifc Northwest.
On our cover: The sage Jm Whttaker cmes rm r pblshgarm, The Mtaeers Bks, whch has jst released a re-sse WhttakersA Life on the Edge. The ew bk wll be celebrated alg-sde the teth aersary Whttakers ams clmb MtEerest Aprl 20 Seattle (see the ad sde).
the Mountaineerses . . .
the Mountaineer wld lke t thak The Moun-taineers Foundation r ts acal assstacedrg the redesg bth ths magaze adwww.mtaeers.rg. The Fdat peratesas a separate rgazat rm The Mtaeers,whch has receed abt e-thrd the Fda-ts gts t ars prt rgazats.
18
13
19
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www.mountaineers.org
tyinginThe Mtaeers s a -
prt rgazat, ded
1906 ad dedcated t the
respsble ejymet ad
prtect atral areas.
bOARd Of dIRECTORS
oFFiCERS
Presdet Ga Wdy, 2012-14Presdet Elect Da Lare, 2012-14
vP Prpertes Tab Wlks 201 2-14
vP Pblshg Lsa Bertse, 2012-14
Treasrer Stee McClre, 2012-14
Secretary Jh ohls, 2012-14
DiRECToRS AT LARGE
Lra Crrga, 2011-14
Rch Draes, 2011-14
Lee Frms, 2010-13
Chle Harrd, 2012-15
Leah Schlz, 2012-15
Kara Ste, 2012-13
Matt Slla, 2010-13
Tm varga, 2012-15
Gee Yre, 2011-14
BRAnCH DiRECToRS
Ke Small, Bellgham
Ey Ddey, Eerett
Gerry Hage, Fthlls
Jmmy James, Ktsap
Hery Rmer, olympa
Krk Alm, Seattle
Jm Felts, Tacma
ExECuTivE DiRECToR
Martqe Grgg
ExECuTivE PuBLiSHER
Hele Cherll
DiRECToR oF DEvELoPMEnT
AnD CoMMuniCATionS
Mary HseMAnAGinG EDiToR
Brad Straceer
PRooFREADERS
Chrs Ast, Jh Jack Edwards, Bra
Ftch, Crag Mller
PHoToGRAPHERS
Erc Becker, J Krakaer, Dee Mleaar,
Jle Smth, ira Sprg, Le Whttaker
The Mountaineer (iSSn 0027-2620) s
pblshed bmthly by The Mtaeers,
7700 Sad Pt Way nE, Seattle, WA
98115. 206-521-6000; 206-523-6763 a.
Members recee a sbscrpt as part
ther aal des. Apprmately $12
each members aal membershp des
ges t prt ad mal ths pblcat. n-
member sbscrpts ttheMountaineerare $32. Perdcals pstage pad at Seattle,
WA ad addtal malg fces.
Pstmaster: Sed address chages t
the Mountaineer, 7700 Sad Pt
Way nE, Seattle, WA 98115.
ops epressed artcles are thse
the athrs ad d t ecessarly
represet the ews The Mtaeers.
Every summit begins with a rst step
This year marks the 50th anniversary the rst Ame-
rca ascet Mt Eerest. Jm Whttaker, the rst Amercat smmt Mt Eerest, tk hs rst step whe he leared t
clmb as a tee wth The Mtaeers.
The Mtaeers has grw qte a bt sce Jm tk the
basc alpe clmbg crse. nw we egage a cmmty
er 13,000, spprted by 1,000 traed lteers leadg 3,200
crses ad acttes, cldg 2,300 yth tdr expereces, 6,000 hrs c-
serat edcat ad stewardshp eetsall whle prdg tdr rmat t
er 300,000 bk byers ad le strs. or am: create rmed recreatsts,
egaged stewards, healther ctzes ad better peple. Jm, r e, s ery mpressed by
hw ar wee cme.
i recetly had the pprtty t hst a Peak Scety eet eatrg Bret Bshp,
a tw-tme Eerest clmber ad s Barry Bshp, e Jm Whttakers teammates
the 1963 expedt. He etertaed s wth stres ad pctres rm bth hs ad
hs athers expedts. Hag bee ascated by Eerest r mch my le, ie see
ctless pctres the mta. oe the pctres that Eerest team absltely
captated me: a black ad whte pht Tm Hrbe ad Wll useld makg ther way
p the treachers West Rdge. nt ly dd they g t establsh a ew rte t the tp
Eerest, bt they cmpleted the rst traerse the mta ad sred the wrlds
hghest by p t that pt.
The pht shws a smmt partally blaketed a cldtremedsly rebdg ad
screamg wth a challege the kw. i thght hw hard t mst hae bee r them
t take that rst step whle lkg p at a meacg pyramd rck ad ce. Frther, i
thght hw almst ay ther clmber wld hae tred back whe Jm Wttaker appr-
ached the same smmt whle aced wth a d spplemetal xyge, 50-mle-a-hr
wds ad the chll ms-30 degrees drg the al thres hs clmb.
i r les we ace may challegesas twerg ad tmdatg as a mta ad
reqrg mre rm s tha we thk we hae. The jrey te les emtal,
physcal, tellectal ad metal stregth.
Like the Americans summit o a mountain in 1963,a challege always
seems the mst datg ad dclt whe y are stadg stll at the startg le
the jrey, thkg abt whats ahead. im prd t be part a rgazat
members wh t ly ace dw challeges, bt g t lkg r them. Fr we kw
that smply steppg t t the kw, whether r t we smmt, ltmately ges s
the crage ad stregth t aspre t taller mtas.
S, my qest s: What s yr mta . . . ad hae y take yr rst step?
Ga Wdy, Bard Drectrs Presdet
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4 the mountaineer mar/apr 2013
editorsnote
Ca y dety the smmt
the regrd here? Sed yr
aswer (by Febrary 1) by pst r
e-mal: brads@mtaeers.rg;
im Where?, Mountaineer, 7700
Sad Pt Way n.E., Seattle,
WA 98115. i y gess crrectly,
yll recee a $15 cp gd
r Mtaeers prchases, ad
well pblsh yr ame extmths clm. i case a te,
e wer wll be chse at ra-
dm. Mtaeers emplyees r
perss shw the phtgraph
are t elgble. Each mth well
pblsh a ew mystery ladmark
ad detcat the pre-
s e.
Sen your photographs r pssble pblcat as a mystery smmt (clde det-
cat r r beet). See e-mal ad malg address at let. i we se yr pht, y
wll recee a $15 Mtaeers cp gd r Mtaeers prchases.
n e was able t dety Sla Peak as the smmt the Jaary/Febrary Moun-
taineer. The pht was take by nrm Bckley rm r Eerett Brach.
Imwhere?
Brent Bishop, waiting or the weather t break a
attempt at the West Rdge Eerest last sprg, wated t kw
smethg. Dd hs brethre teemg at basecamp the wrlds
hghest ad mst ceted mta get the dr bg early
le, lke he had? (See the Last Wrd page 47.)
Hs lttle, cal srey Eerest pred he was t ale.
All caght the tdr bg as kds, jst as mst thse we
terewed r ths sse the Mountaineer had. A ew started
clmbg at a early age, mstly sprred by parets r metrs
wh had clmbed, bt thers were smtte wth the tdrs as a
chld ther waystet r car campg parks wth the amly,
shg streams r lakes, r jst hkg lcal trals wth amly.
My le the tdrs happeed t sprt rm my dads le
r shg ad htg Alaska. i was 5 whe he rst started
takg me alg. i a partclar s prmpted me t g t the
hgh ctry, t was mst prbably my glg at the Chgach
Rage, backdrpped by a edless ble sky, whle i lay spread ea-
gle r rt law Achrage. May a Mtaeers member
has related hw jst seeg Mt Raers bqts ce the
Washgt skyle drg a st sprred them t me rm iwa,
ills, Arza, Texas r the East Cast.
Ad as each r stres ld, t be tld these pages r
the pages ther chrcles, t s mperate t te hw the
stres startedrm a early trdct t the tdrs,
matter the actty r ccas.
it s eqally mperate t te that t all kds hae t as lcky
as dd mysel r sme r eatred clmbers these pages.
May tdays kds hae bee clstered, seeg the tdrs
ly thrgh thse credls Suv cmmercals, a scree
saer r a Srr shw. They hae t breathed t , tched
ts sk r steaded ther eet ts streams, ts sw-capped
slpes r the crsty Md-Clmba steppe lad amdst a sea
brttle, pget sage. These are the kds that t ly The M-
taeers s tryg t reachad dg s i mght add (see page 10
ad the stry Jsephe)
bt are als the kds that r mst
accmplshed clmbers ad mtaeers are depedg t
esre that thse precs places where les are trasrmed ad
dreams are br d t spl rm derece.
Everest 50 is surely a celebration mtaeerg
accmplshmet, bt t s jst as mch a cmmtmet t seedg
a s, a det ad a pass the mds r yg pe-
pleleadg them t d the same.Brad Stracener, Managing Editor
It is about Everest and accomplishment, but it is about more
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www.mountaineers.org
Celebrate the 50th Anniversary o the frst American summito Mt. Everest with Jim Whittaker, Tom Hornbein and specialguest, Robert F. Kennedy Jr.
or call 206.521.6006 or more inormation
or tickets:
www.mountaineers.org/everest50
Saturday, April 20, 2013Fremont Studios, Seattle WA
6:00 p.m.
presented by:
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6 the mountaineer mar/apr 2013
Mountaineer tabbed or Secretary o Interior
o Febrary 7, Presdet obama mated e r ery w as
the ext secretary the iterr. Sally Jewell, che execte at REi,
s amed t lead the departmet that ersees the stewardshp
mlls acres pblc lads.Sally, wh leared t clmb wth The Mtaeers as a teeager,
s a Peak Scety member ad seres r Adsry Ccl. As
a acte hker, paddler ad clmber, she s well-ersed the ale
tdr recreat ad the mprtace r pblc lads. We
are prd Sallys rse t ths mprtat pst ad lk rward
t wrkg wth her t prtect pblc lads ad ecrage mre
Amercasyg ad ldt get tdrs.
spindrift
Targeting an Everest? Keep a constant
base o tness, says Chad Kellogg
Whle Chad Kellgg was at The Mtaeers r a clc last
December, he tched what he thks s mst mprtat abt
trag r a majr clmb, whether t be Eerest ( whch he s
tryg t set a speed recrd), r ather 8,000-meter peak.
My geeral phlsphy s ths: Always mata a gd base
cdt ( tess). Sk, r, ht the gymskeep yr base ma-
taed. He adds, Y ca the ramp p yr trag dscple
arly qckly t the specc clmb that y are abt t d.
Shld y becme jred the prcess cdtg, as he
dd 2009 whle preparg r e hs Eerest speed-recrd
attempts, he adses that y keep wrkg thse parts the
bdy that aret jred. Fr example, y tr a cal y ca
stll stregth tra wth weghts ther slated mscles the
bdy.
ultmately, he sad, t s dratphyscally ad metallythat
y are strg r whe gettg ready t clmb a mta lke
Eerest, ths reqrg a steady regme tess.
Where in the world is Steve Swenson?
i y are tryg t keep p wth Stee Swes sce the tr
the ew year, keep a eye the peaks t the sth, ar sth.
Bt a easer way s t ew hs blghttp://steeswessblg.
blgspt.cm.
it wll tell y what he d t d (read: clmb) whle betwee
smmts Mt. vs Atarctca ad Cerr Trre Pataga
er Jaary ad Febrary. nw, he says, t s tme r sme trek-
kg wth hs we Argeta ad at Trres del Pae Chle.
Everest trivia . . .
A welcome addition
Ths sse the Mountaineer welcmes the jralstc talets
e r w, Alls Wllams (abe Mt. Raer), a recet
gradate Seattles Alpe Scramblg itese Crse.
Alls was kd egh t let s se part her prle Jm
ad L Whttaker (see pg. 13) that appeared the Seattle Met
magaze last Agst (als see abe). Fr the etre pece, see
www.seattlemet.cm/trael-ad-tdrs/sders-gde-t-m-
t-raer-atal-park/artcles/jm-ad-l-whttaker-a-
gst-2012.
Meawhle, keep a eye pe the mtas r a clmber
wth a pe ad pad.
Only nine other men had ascended Everest before Americas
rst, Jim Whittaker, did so in 1963
The rst solo ascent of Mount Everest without supplemental
oxygen was achieved by Italian-born Reinhold Messner in 1978
In 2004 Pemba Dorjie Sherpa set the speed record to the
summit via the South Col8 hours, 10 minuteswith supple-
mental oxygen. Four years later, Kazi Sherpa set the record
without supplemental oxygen at 20 hours, 24 minutes
Part of the 1953 Edmund Hillary expedition, Charles Evans
and Tom Bourdillon climbed to within 300 feet of Everests su-
mmit a couple days before Hillary and Tenzing Norgay success-
ully became the rst to stand on top
In 1965, Nawang Gombu of the 63 American expedition beca-
me the rst man to climb Everest twice
In 1975, Junko Tabei of Japan became the rst woman to
summit Everest.
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8 the mountaineer mar/apr 2013
conservationcurrents
This year marks the 100th anniversary the rst smmt Deal (aka Mt McKley),
whch s r may the tlmate mage a prste wlderess. Hweer, recet research by Dr. Mchael
Ls rm Alaska Pacc uersty pts t a ery deret realty. By calclatg the aerage
mber clmbers wh hae asceded the pplar West Bttress Rte ad the aerage mlt-week
expedt legth 18 days, Dr. Ls estmates betwee 152,000 ad 215,000 pds hma waste
hae bee depsted by clmbers creasses the Kahlta Glacer. i mre llstrate terms, we are
talkg 13 adlt male Asa elephats wrth waste the creasses.
Whle the waste may be t
sght, t s bred by sw
accmlat ad crprated t
a rer ce that mes 1,400 eet
per year sme areas. Prelmary
dgs sggest the creassed wasteremas blgcally acte ad wll
emerge at the Great ice alls the
ext decade (9.3 mles dwstream
rm Basecamp). The natal Park
Serce atcpates pblc health
sses as well as egate mpact
the str experece as these waste
ples start emergg.
A 2007 mandate Deal
natal Park reqres clmbers atbase camp (7,200 eet) ad thse wh
asced abe the camp at 14,200
eet t pack t waste a persal,
prtable caster called a Clea Mta Ca (CMC). Sce mplemetat, cdts hae greatly
mpred abe the 17,200-t Hgh Camp, whch had becme trsly satary.
Clmbers hae bee really recepte t chages, sad Lead Mtaeerg Rager Cley Getzel.
Sta has see thg bt pste reacts twards the CMC prgram. Whle the pack-t prgram
has scceeded redcg waste ectered at the hgh camps, clmbers are stll drected t depst
the ctets ther CMCs t desgated creasses belw the 14,200-t camp.
The dgs at the Kahlta rase qests abt the gg practce creasse dspsal
Deal. Meawhle, tw pplar smmts clser t hmeMt. Raer ad Mt. Bakerhae lg
reqred that clmbers pack t ther waste wth ble bags that are ssed wth clmbg permts.
Ble Bags mst be dspsed desgated receptacles, t the garbage.
What can you do to reduce your impact ther swy smmts? Cmmercally aalable
prdcts lke Cleawaste WAG Bags ad By Bags clde a bdegradable pwder that dedrzes
ad etralzes sld waste s that t ca be dspsed drectly the trash ater yr adetre.
To read more on the story please visit www.nps.gov/dena/naturescience.
When nature calls on the mountain . . .
by Lisa MillerPblc Lads
Prgrams iter
Denali National Park (photo courtesy o the National Park Service)
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Continue on page 24
A stalwart o
stewardship and
advocacy, Helen
Engle retires only
in an ocial sense
Helen Engle, lifetime member The Mtaeers,
retred rm her pst as secretary the Tacma Brach
last year. Kw the tdrs ad cserat crcles as a
remarkable sl wh gets thgs de, she has a le-lg hstry
takg care the peple ad places ard her.
Tacma lteer leader, strctr ad cer Mdy Rberts,
whse rst ctact wth The Mtaeers was Heles ce
the ther ed the phe 1999jst bere Mdy jed
the rgazatprepared a bgraphy Hele r the Tacma
Mtaeers Aal Baqet octber 20, 2012. The llwg
s excerpted ad adapted rm Mdys prle Hele.
In the halls o Congress
Hele was Cgressma nrm Dcks ermetal crdatr
1994. She ad nrm g way back. Hele was the rst pers
t st nrm Dcks ce ater he was elected, ad she ad her
hsbad, Sta, rged a strg redshp wth hm er the years.
nrm shared hs thghts a letter t the Tacma Mtaeers
r the aal baqet:
i hae had greater parters wrkg sses aectg r
great pblc lads tha Hele ad Sta Egle. Frm prtectg r
wldle reges, helpg t secre desgat the Clearwater
Wlderess Mt. Raer, t her waerg adcacy r r
atal parks, Hele Egle has lterally bee a rce r atre
ad prtectg hma health.
Yes, ts tre she rgazed a st- at the cgressmas ce.
She recalled settg a strct prtcl r the mstly cllege-age
peple wh asked r her leadershp. Hw y dress, hw y
act, hw y speak ad what y d mpacts the tcme yr
erts r chage! she tld them. Rep. Dcks agreed t meet wth
her ad the crew her hmea stadard Egle maeer
whch was lled wth peple, pstars ad dwstars. They were
sccessl ccg hm t chage hs pst the tmele
r mplemetg Frest Habtat Maagemet Plas ad reqrg
reglar pdates stead decades wtht a check .
In the broader outdoor community
Heles rgazatal ad ermetal rts g credbly
deep. She was a dg member Washgt Adb
Scety, the Tahma Adb Scety, Peple r Pget Sd,
the natal Parks Fd, nsqally Bas Lad Trst, Ctzes r
a Healthy Bay, ad Washgt Ermetal Pltcal Act
Cmmttee. i addt she has sered the bards bth lcal
ad atal rgazats as well as The Mtaeers Bard
Trstees.
Hele has a hard tme detyg whch her extese
adcacy prjects she s mst prd , sayg thats lke askg
whch yr chldre s yr arte! Hele sad wrk t
Helen Engle at her Tacoma home, scene o many past round-table resolutions to environmental issues
Eric
Beckerphoto
Law & the Land worskhop: March 19
The Mtaeers ad Washgt Trals Asscat are
parterg t er The Law & The Lad, a ree teracte
wrkshp the eeg Tesday, March 19, at The
Mtaeers Seattle Prgram Ceter.
Bldg ew trals takes mre tha mapwer. By law,
ederal lad maagers lke the u.S. Frest Serce ad
natal Park Serce mst ealate prpsed prjects
whether they are bldg trals r plag tmber harest.
Lcal germets may als get led whe ther
radways that prde recreatal access crss ederal
lads.
J plcy adcates ad lad maagers r a eeg
wrkshp t demysty the natal Ermetal
Prtect Act ad clary the pprttes that ctzes
hae t fece the desg ad exect prpsed
acts ederal lads. Ctact sarahk@mtaeers.rg
t RSvP.
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10 the mountaineer mar/apr 2013
reachingout
by Caitlin Obrien
Assstat Prgram Maager
Youth conquer summits via Mountain Workshops
Many o us at The Mountaineers hae had the rtate pprtty t ejy the tdrs sce
chldhd. We kw what t eels lke t smmt a peak, tp t a clmb, r paddle dw a rer. May
yth Seattle hae t had the same expsre t the tdrs, ad hae t leared what t meas t
smmt, r ee hw t clmb a mta.
or gal r Mta Wrkshps s t mpart a le the tdrs t all yth ad t help them
smmt ther w peak, whether that meas gettg t the tp the rck wall r jst pttg a haress
ad tyg t a clmbg rpe. We am t spre ths pass r the tdrs all yth by creatg a
sae ermet r them t try ew thgs.
The Mtaeers has had the pprtty t parter wth a lcal
permaet hsg cmmty r presly hmeless mms ad
yth der 18, spprted by the lcal -prt Sld Grd. Each all
ad sprg we hst a Mta Wrkshp ce a week r 10 weeks r
yth ages 9 t 11. Drg these weekly prgrams we teach partcpatsars tdr sklls lke agat, tdr ckg, rck clmbg
ad rst ad.
In addition to our primary goal, we als am t eqp yth
wth a basc preparedess r whe they are tdrs. or prgram
wth Sld Grd s especally meagl becase all these yth
hae recetly trasted t hmelessess ad are jst learg
hw t le a csstet ermet. By the ed the 10-week
sess we hae see mst the partcpats grw t t ly chersh
the sklls they hae leared, bt ask t cme back as te as they ca.
We hae see e partcpat r Sld Grd prgram
we wllcall her Jsephe t prtect her pracybecme the qtessetal
Mtaeer. Whe Jsephe rst arred at the prgram ceter, she
was shy ad ers abt ee pttg a haress. Wth the help
r lteers, she set a gal t reach the tp the clmbg wall by
the ed the 10-week sess. She slwly became mre cmrtable
wth hw tp-rpe clmbg wrks, leared hw t te her w llw-
thrgh, gre-eght kt, clmbed a ew eet ad was lwered t the
grd. Each tme Jsephe came back she wld set a ew gal, a ew
smmt r hersel, tl by the eghth sess she had reached the tp.
nw that Jsephe has aged t r Sld Grd prgram, shehas asked hw she ca cte t clmb. Wth the help r MAP schlarshp d, she jed r year-
rd yth prgram, Explrers, ad we wll watch as Jsephe sets ew gals ad reaches ew smmts
wth the sklls she lears at The Mtaeers.
Our continuing goal, t ly wth Jsephe, bt wth all yth that partcpate r prgram,
s t help them reach ther smmtwhateer that may be. Whether ts the tp the clmbg wall r
learg hw t se a cmpass, we hae the ablty t prde the pprtty r aye t smmt ther
mta, ad d ew mtas ad ew smmts t clmb.55
A recent Explorers outing
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Mountaineers volunteers stay busySprg s here ad wth sprg cmes the bsest seas r r lteer leaders.
Betwee clmbg, scramblg, kayakg, phtgraphy, salg, atral hstry ad
crse, hkg, mst r lteer leaders hae almst eery weeked bked rm
w tl the ed Agst.
Why? They le dg t ad they le gg back.
Ask ay r leaders hw they gt started ad theyll tell y a stry abt a
lteer whse gt tme ad skll spred them t lear, grw ad ge back. o
crse, ts t play tsde wth ew reds ad ld, bt the real reas they d t
s becase they wat s badly r thers t hae the pprttes that they had.
Whe y j The Mtaeers, y j a cmmty geers ad sprg
peple. Wth eery eet ad actty, lteers are sharg ther sklls wth thers
ad smltaesly beetg rm smee elses lteered tme.
S, heres t the credble lteersm that makes The Mtaeers wh we
are tday ad the tre.
Summer Camp registration opens!J s r week-lg adetres ll Mtaeers actty.
Kds, ages 6-13, wll hae a chace t try clmbg, hkg, kayakg,
agat, phtgraphy ad basc wlderess sklls at r Smmer
Day Camps. Each week wll clde games ad acttes, a
earth stewardshp cmpet ad tdr sklls deelpmetall
led by sklled strctrs.The camps csst sx weeks Seattle, three weeks Ktsap,
ad tw weeks Tacmaeach wth ts w theme.
Seattle
Jly 8-12: Rpes ad Rcks Week
Jly 15-19: Water Week
Jly 22-26: Srr Week
Jly 29-Ag 2: Mtas Week
Agst 5-9: Wlderess Grmet Week
Agst 12-16: otdrs Yr Way Week
Kitsap
Jly 8-12: Echated Frest
Jly 15-19: Frest Explrers
Agst 5-9 (sbject t chage): Theater Camp
Tacoma
Agst 5-9: Themes aalable le
Agst 12-16: Themes aalable le
vst www.mtaeers.rg r mre detals each weeks act-
tes. Camp lls ast; each year we hae a wat lst s sg p s! Joseph challenges himsel on the Camp Long ropes course
Pioneers enjoy a day o pirating on the Skykomish
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12 the mountaineer mar/apr 2013
In 1963, a band o climbers embarked e the greatest adetres r tme. Fghtg alttde, allg
ce, reezg wds ad swstrms, they challeged the wrlds tallest mta. The Amerca Mt Eerest Exped-
t (AMEE) wld trasrm the les the me wh wet t clmb t ad trasrm Amerca as well. At a tme whe
Cld War tess remaed hgh ad the race betwee Amerca ad the Set u t pt a ma the m was
der way, Amerca was ready r ew heres.
Led by nrma Dyhrerth, the Amerca expedt cmpleted three rsts Mt. Eerest: 1) pttg the rst
Amerca, Jm Whttaker, tp the wrlds hghest mta, 2) the rst ascet the West Rdge (by Tm Hrbe
ad Wll useld), ad 3) the rst traerse the peak
aga by Hrbe ad useld, wh desceded t the SthCl rte ater srg a pe bac abe 28,000 eet wth teammates Lte Jerstad ad Barry Bshp, wh had
smmted hrs bere them.
The sccessl smmt Eerest wld brg ame t the Amerca clmbers. They were preseted wth the nat-
al Gegraphc Scetys greatest hr, the Hbbard Medal. Jh F. Keedy preseted the award the Whte Hse
Rse Garde Jly 1963, jst r mths bere he was assassated.
Amerca heralded ts heres.
In honor o the 50th anniversary the rst Amerca smmt Mt. Eerest, we welcme lcal clmbers
perspectes Eerestwhether the mta tsel r the hstrc smmts. o the llwg pages, yll read abt
what Eerest meas t tw members the 63 team r whm we the Pacc nrthwest are prd t lay clamJm
Whttaker ad Tm Hrbead hw ther hstrc acheemets feced ther nrthwest clmbers wh hae
clmbed r attempted t clmb Eerest.
Y wll d a cmm thread betwee each clmber, spred t seek challege ad adetre ly t emerge tras-
rmed ater acheg hs r her gal r smply hag tred. Clmbg des ths. i act, almst aythg y d the
tdrs that presets a challege des ths. it trasrms y sme way.
For all the objectives reachedwhether t s a Eerest, a rgrs hke, a challegg paddle r skt bec-
mes clear t s, as t dd r r aremeted Amerca heres, that the jrey t r bjecte ad what t mparts
r les s what ths tdr thg s all abt. its a jrey that presets adetre, beaty, challege ad the
escapable smply beg tdrs.55
Perspectives:
then and now
Jle Smth pht
by Mary Hsue
Drectr Deelpmetad Cmmcats
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The early yearsBr Febrary 1929 t a Seattle alarm salesma ad hs hmemaker we,
Jm ad L led a chldhd that ell smewhere betwee ozze ad Harret
ad Peter Pa. Wth ther lder brther, Barey, theyd play a sad pt
the shres West Seattle, bldg rats ad ltg hmemade weghts made
ccrete ad cee cas. They were jst rmal, scrawy, screwy kds
that dd eerythg tgether, says Barey, w 86. Rg madly ard
the yard wearg capes, pretedg that they were Sperma. n, they ddt
ght er whch e gt t be the Ma Steel. They were bth Sperma.All three tk t the tdrs, prmpted by a ather wh shed ee whle
sales trps. As teeagers, Jm ad L were sx-t-e pllars, sharp-
aced ad sleder, recrted by Seattle uersty wth basketball schlarshps.
Bt ball sprts were jst a meas t a tt-payg ed; by gradat theyd
drpped hps ar sk patrl wrk ad Raer gdg, prtable ways
t le p t ther mthers madate t get tsde ad play. They played
tsde s mch that cllege tk a extra year, bt ther mta resces
eared them medals ad letters cmmedat.
Jim WhittakerFrm acte tdr tee t Eerest c
This much they agree on: The rst tme Jm ad L Whttaker sm-
mted Mt Raer, they bth threw p. The tws were 16-year-ld By
Scts the smmer 1945, ascedg a the Emms Glacer wth a ew
dze thers the Seattle-based Mtaeers clb. The sky was clear, bt
the tw-day slg was harder tha they expected. The derprepared bys were
s dehydrated they melted sw ther mths. Ar s th at 14,410 eet, ad
asea s cmm at eleat, as clmbers say.
Bt what happeed ext s stll dspted sme 67 years later.
Mm had packed a bch grapes, ad yre s thrsty p there, saysL Whttaker, w 83. i threw p the grapes, re-ate a ew them. Grss,
yes, bt he was a teeage by.
Bt Jm, hs lder-by-10-mtes brther, wt crm t, Y cat belee
eerythg Le says. He wats t make a gd stry, ad thse are gd
stres. i hs w bgraphy, act, L wrte that the grss aecdte was a
stry [that] gt ardbt thats t tre.
S dd t happe? Wh kws. Fr the Whttaker tws, tw the mst
prmet mtaeers the nrthwest has eer prdced, ther reptat s
paramt. The grtty smmt stry ts the mystqe.
ira Sprng photo (Mountaneers Books)
Excerpted from The
Brothers Whittaker,
August, 2012, Seattle
Met magazine,
by Allison Williams
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14 the mountaineer mar/apr 2013
Jim Whittaker(cted rm page 13)
Mount EverestMt Eerest s 29,029 eet hghabt as ar abe sea leel as cmmercal arlers fyad
was especally datg 1963, whe there were rpes markg rtes t the tp. Expedts
reqred hdreds prters ad dzes sklled clmbers t zgzag betwee remte camps r
mths. Thse wh actally made t t the tp were less sl explrers ad mre
lke reelace astrats; they reached smmt rbt by a team ert.
oly tw teamse Swss, e Chesehad matched Sr Edmd Hll-
ary ad Tezg nrgays 1953 smmt eat. Whe Swss lmmaker nrma
Dyhrerth asked Jm ad L t j a expedt t pt the rst Amerca
Eerest, bth jmped at the chace. Bt whle the team 19 clmbers, dctrs,
scetsts, ad dcmetaras traed, e key member drpped t: L. That
mmet, perhaps mre tha ay ther, set the mrrr tws separate crses.
Ater fyg t Kathmad ad a mth-lg hke t base camp, Jm ad the
team started edless trps p ad dw Eerests ledges ad ce alls, halg
dred rats ad xyge ctaers. Salad. Gree salad. Gree salad was the
e thg y dream , Jm says. Wme secd. oe team member ded
a early accdet, pttg them all edge. Ater sx weeks, Jm ad nawag
Gmb, a ephew Tezg nrgay, reached the smmt May 1, 1963. The
rst Amerca had made t.
Jm dest thk abt that mmet mch; hed rather pctre the r the
wrld thrgh the eyes hs 27-year-ld s, Le, wh made t t Eerests pacle r the secd
tme ths year. They were sttg p there wth wd, clds, Jm says. Y tr ard,
sck p ar, ad ejy the ew. Y kw, jst srt sak t . Jm had lttle tme whe he ad
Gmb smmted, ee thgh back the the Sth Cl rte was empty ad therwrldly, t as
crwded as a gld rsh tral as t s tday. Bt hs tw acts were es dcmetat: a pht,
ad pckg p a rck t set a sget rg.
Big Jim
Thgh the same heght as hs tw, hes kw as Bg Jm, ad Barey csders hm the mresmber: Jm s qeter ad Le s mre gregars, prbably mre le--the-party tha Jm s.
Thats why the jb er he gt rm a clmbg bddy 1955 was s deal. Fe years pres, the
tws had set Jly Frth bttle rckets wth Llyd Aders rm the edge Raers smmt
crater; w he wated Jm t perate hs tdr gear c-p abe a restarat Pke.
Whe the C-p ally hred Jm t maage ther ty strage space ad stre, he wld sped
lg hrs ale amg ples dw sleepg bags ad bts shd wth Trc als. Draw t
the share-ad-share-alke eths the c-p, Jm tk $400 a mth pls a hal percet grss
sales. Wth e years, the ame mrphed rm the C-p t Recreatal Eqpmet icrp-
rated, r REi.
next t the pay ad the access t gear, the best thg abt the REi gg was that Jm cld take
tme . i 1963, he tk a whppg r-mth acat, headg 7,000 mles t the hghest pt
earth.With Mountaineers Publisher Helen Cherullo
On top o the world in 63
MountaineersBo
oksphoto
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Todayo Je 3, 2012, Jm ad L Whttaker met at Paradse i, the cetry-ld ldge
the skrt Mt Raer. They came t memralze Sherpa nawag Gmb, wh,
ater smmtg Eerest wth Jm, wrked 18 seass Raer wth L.
Theres a slght cre t ther shlders
the brthers are ther th decade,
ater allbt L ad Jm stll stad abe almst eerye the hdred-pers
crwd. They glad-had ther way thrgh the tght raterty clmbers ad gdes
der strgs mltclred prayer fags. Bth wat t be lked ad bth tell stres
whle dgg the lsteer wth a t, a cspratral gestre.
Jm ad L hstle as they dd 60 years ag, whe the tw strappg yg tws
wld hawk ther gde serces t the crwd trsts ths htel lbby. i crsp
whte btt-ps ad armbads that read MounTAin GuiDE, e wld stad
the thers shlders t demstrate clmbg techqes these same wde
pllars ad beams. They charged $28 r a tw-day ascet t the smmt, $5 r a
tr the nsqally Glacers ghstly ce caes. i 1950, whe the tws perated the
Raer clmbg ccess, ly 238 peple attempted t clmb Raer, wth r wth-
t the gde serce. The ce cae trps were the real meymaker. Thse ce caes
hae lg sce melted away, ad, 2010, 10,643 peple tred t smmt Raer.
At the Gmb trbte, almst eerye, cldg the Whttakers, wre the kd
sythetc ests ad dw pllers pplarzed by REi. They dt hae t sell ay-
thg aymreclmbs, gear, themselesbt the tws are stll wrkg the rm at
Paradse.55
Abt the athrAlls Wllams s a ser edtr at Seattle Met magaze, where she cers
nrthwest trael ad the tdrs. Her wrk has appeared Time Out New York,
Conde Nast Traveler le, Metro ewspapers, ad Publishers Weekly, ad
rad shws cldg The Takeaway, The Rck Shw, ad The Bra Lehrer Shw.
She hlds degrees rm Dke uersty, the uersty Alaska Achrage ad
s the recpet the Jas Weger Award r Excellece Create Wrtg. She
les Seattle ad s a hker, scrambler, clmber, sker ad swsher.
Whittakers re-issue rom Mountaineers Books
Everest 50
Satrday, Aprl 20, 6 pm
Fremt Stds, Seattle
Der, prgram
ad le act
Tickets/reservations:
mtaeers.rg/eerest50
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16 the mountaineer mar/apr 2013
O leaders and mountains, the Kennedys and Whittaker
It was only our monthsater shaking the presidents hand Jly 1963 that the rst Amerca
t stake hs ats fag atp Mt Eerest had t gree wth hs at.Presdet Jh F. Keedy had bee
assasated.Tw years ater Jm Whttaker receed the natal Gegraphc Scetys Hbbard Medal rm Presdet Keedy
the Rse Garde, the Caada germet had amed ts ats hghest clmbed mta ater the sla
presdet, settg the stage r JFKs yger brther, Rbert, t stake a fag a smmte that rses rm the
glacer-clad St. Elas Mtas, whch brders the Yk Terrtry ad the Alaska Pahadle. The Keedy amly
had ted the presdets gee admrat r
Whttaker, s the Caada germet ted
RFK t plat the Caada fag ts smmt. it dd
t hae t thk lg abt ts chce r a gde:
Whttaker.
The young Kennedy,wh Whttaker met rthe rst tme jst bere hs team headed p t
the Yk, appeared reassrgly t. oce
the mta, Whttaker set a stadard gde
paceslw egh t t br t the ces.
S, Keedy asked hm t g aster. As the grp
apprached the smmt, Whttaker std back as
the seatr scaled the last the peaks 13,905
eet ad kelt a prate mmet prayer r hs
mrdered brther.
The clmb rged a redshp betwee the tw
me. Whttaker sted te wth the seatrs
amly, playg the Keedys ams tch
tball games ad skg wth them S valley, idah. i 1968, Keedy asked Whttaker t lead hs Washgt
state presdetal campag. S Whttaker was leadg the oreg campag, t.
On June 4, the night of the California primary, Whttaker had hs lteers gather a Seattle htel
ste t watch the retrs. Whe Keedys ctry was crmed, the seatr called the ste rm hs rm L.A.s
Ambassadr Htel t address Whttakers grp thrgh a set ldspeakers. The he wet dwstars t ace
hs w. Ad the he wet t thrgh the ktche.
Whle drg back hme, Whttaker heard the ews Keedy beg sht. The same ght, he raced t the arprt
ad few dw t Ls Ageles t j Keedys we, Ethel, ad yger brther, Edward, at the seatrs hsptal bed.
Whttaker was hldg Keedys had whe he ded ad was a pallbearer the serces at St. Patrcks Cathedral
new Yrk Cty ad Arlgt natal Cemetery.
My fathers greatest living heroes were John Glenn and Jim Whittakera physcal gat
wth a hge heart, a decet sl, ad spratal crage. We ca all be gratel that Whttaker has ally pt hs
extrardary le paper.
Robert F. Kennedy, Jr., regarding Whittaker's book, Lie on the Edge55
Jim Whittaker and RFK in a photo taken by Mt. Kennedy team member Dee Molenaar in 1965
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May 1,2013, is the ftieth anniversary the rst
Amerca ascet Mt Eerest. o a strmy ater 1963,
my ather, Jm Whttaker, ad hs Sherpa clmbg parter, nawag
Gmb, plated the Stars ad Strpes the sw at the hghest
pt Earth.
As the ctry celebrates ths aersary ad rests the
hstry the expedt, may peple wll ask hw Eerest has
chaged. is t stll a challege? is t stll wrth clmbg? i hae
bee lcky egh t smmt Eerest twce the last three years,
ad althgh t has chaged a great deal sce 1963, t remas a
rmdable, trasrmate ad beatl mta.
i 2012 i had the pprtty t clmb wth a expereced team
that clded wrld-rewed gdes Dae Hah ad Melssa
Art. Hah has spet each sprg Eerest r the past tw
decades, cmplg 14 smmts that spa. Art has already
reached the tp r tmes her yg career. Yet r all ther
experece, ether had ectered a stat qte lke the e
we aced at 28,700 eet drg r smmt bd. oer a hdred
peple ars states descet were spread acrss the crce
traerse ad Hllary Step, the last majr bstacles Mt
Eerests Stheast Rdge. or team was rced t wat r mre
tha a hr whle the le bdes med past.
Dad and Gombu cld eer hae maged sch a challege.
They were csed clmbg a rte that had xed rpes,
tprts, ad hpe r resce shld smethg g wrg.
They were cmpletely ale, pshg the bdares hma
edear hgher ad hgher t space.
Sme clmbers arge that Eerest has lst ts prty, that t
has becme a smple walk-p resered r rch clets ad ther
gdes, bt thse peple al t realze the cmplexty ad pwer
the Hmalaya ladscape. i was sherg by the tme the rte
was clear r r ascet. Dae, Melssa, the rest r team, ad i
clmbed the al 300 eet ad embraced the smmt. it was the
type day that happes perhaps ce a year Eerest. The sky
was clear ad wdless; the ar was warm. or breaths ad tears
were the ly sd that brke the ast slece. The wrld beeath
s was a dstat memry, a passed-dw stry, a rch hstry
perseerace ad teamwrk held wth the brttle rck ad ce.
Dad ad Gmb were t lcky egh t hae the ew r the
tme that we had. They were csed sral. The ery mmet
they reached the tp they bega preparg r the descet. A
mayple wth the Amerca fag ted t t was the ly physcal
sg they let behd. otherwse, the strm erased ther presece;
bt t cldt erase ther legacy.
I sat on the summit, whch s w adred wth a gat est
prayer fags, ad ctemplated the mta. i kew, as all
clmbers kw, that the mta ddt care wh i was. it ddt
care that i had a hstry here, a past relatshp wth t. i kew
the mta was smply a gelgc rm ded emt r
tet, bt i als kew that the mta had chaged me, that
i wld be a deret pers whe i came dw, ad i wated t
belee the mta was smethg mre.
Tibetans have their own name r Mt Eerest. They
call t Chmlgmagddess mther the earth. Ater tw
expedts t the smmt, i am begg t derstad why. The
mta s t jst a ple acet rck. it s a teacher, deserg
r ear, le, ad respect.55
by Lei Whittaer
A teacher
deserving
our love, ear
and respect:
Chomolungma
Lei Whittaker with Ama Dablam in the background Le Whttaker pht
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It was a risky route and a risky decision in May o 1963. Tm Hrbe
ad Wll useld decded, hweer, that they wld reg a attempt t be the ery rst
Amercas tp Mt Eerest ad stead try t be the rst tp t a the West
Rdge rte. Abt a mth ater ther teammate, Jm Whttaker, std as the rst Amer-
ca tp the wrld, useld ad Hrbe sccesslly std atp Eerest as the rst
eer t get there a the West Rdge.
The accmplshmet, cpled wth Whttakers ascet, breathed ew le t the
clmbg wrlds ew Amerca clmbers prwess. oe Amercas semal Hmalaya
clmbers, Jake nrt, has called the West Rdge clmb a credble stry s,
hersm, teacty. T ths day, ly three thers hae reached Eerests smmt a the
rte that Hrbe ad useld clmbed 50 years ag.
In looking back at it today, hweer, Hrbe pts t ths way,
We were a lttle grp yg males tryg t d smethg t chal-
lege s r a lttle whle. Lttle dd he kw at the age 32 hw mch
hs remag le wld be feced by the magtde meetg
that challegea fece he has tred t dey r may years, he
says.
The 82-year-ld physcas crret terary attests t ths assert
as the 50th aersary the clmb draws earer. A celebrat May
22 that wll eatre a dscss wth jralst ad clmber J Kraka-
er s keepg hm qte bsy crretly.
The teth s lke a hge tdal wae Eerest breakg t, ad i
cat get t rm der t, he says, bt s qck t add, it has made
me rest sme thgs that i prbably wld t hae.
oe thse thgs s the letme mpact hs ad uselds clmb.
Ater all, as he tes the ew preace, hs marrage was br rm a
prbg qest (why had he clmbed Eerest?) by a patets pedatr-
ca wh std besde hm at the peratg table. He ddt aswer bt
stead lleyed back, Why s yr arm a slg? ad her aswer led
hm t t ly becmg her clmbg metr bt her hsbad mre
tha 40 years w.
Though Everest etches a large landscape o his lieprecs letme
redshps, bks, appearaceshe matas ther les. nt eerye thks me
as the dctr wh clmbed (the West Rdge), reerrg t hs pressal sde le. He
has stded ad dcmeted hma physlgcal lmts ad perrmace at hgh alttde,
ad was pressr ad char the Departmet Aestheslgy at the uersty
Washgt Schl Medce er a perd 15 years.
i i lked at Eerest ad the wderl clmbg expereces i hae had, t s clearly
e my les that stads t, bt my ther les hae ther w precs qeess
jst as mch r mre s tha Eerest.
Whle ts sgcace has swballed t ccpyg a large space hs le, the gd
dctr wld rather talk abt t terms what he ctes hs ew preace as a w-
derl alchemy br rm a prceless cmmty carg reds ad amly.55
West Ridge
lives large in
doctors lie
to this day
by bra StracenerMaagg Edtr
Hornbein on Royal Flush at Frisco, Colorado last August
J Krakaer pht
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The stories are many mtae-
erg lre: Lelg redshps bth rged
ad shattered Mt Eerest. Frtate-
ly, r Lavere Wds, the rmer prealed
whe she ht the 23,150-t mark tward
the smmt.
i wld hae ded, sad the Mta-
eers member wh sered rm thrm-
bphlebtsa bld clt that day
May whe tw Set clmbers saed her by
srrederg a smmt t brg her dw
tward base camp, where she cld ee-
tally be fw t a hsptal Thalad r
treatmet.
The cdet tk place early 23
years ag ad she s stll reds wth her
clmbg parters rm Rssa, where she
recetly wet t st them ad share the
camaradere they rst establshed what
was called The Peace Clmb, rgazedby Jm Whttaker t celebrate the 20th a-
ersary Earth Day. it als marked the
rst tme hstry that mtaeers rm
the uted States, Set u ad Cha
had rped tgether t clmb a mta, let
ale Mt Eerest. Whttaker had placed
e Amerca each three-member team.
Fttgly, the case Wds traal, he
Abt Lavere WdsLavere Wds, a
Washgt ate, s a
Mtaeers Ad-sry Ccl member
ad parter at Das,
Wrght, Tremae, LLP,
Seattle, where she chars
the rms Tax Exempt
orgazats grp. She has sat seeral
atal cmmttees r the Amerca Bar
Asscat ad thers. She has receed se-
eral pressal awards, cldg Lawyer
the Year by Best Lawyers Seattle.
selected clmbers wh were t eltsts -
csed ly ther w bjectes. istead
he selected clmbers sed t lkg t
r thers ther clmbs. He als ked
a rle: n e cld stad the smmt
wtht ther ther tw clmbg mates.
sx years ld, whe Whttaker became the
rst Amerca t stad tp the wrld.
i hae ery d memres that day,
she stated.
i wet t elemetary schl wth
Jms bys, sad Wds, wh grew p
Redmd wth parets wh clmbed, hked
ad wrte a Mtaeers gdebk
bcyclg Washgt. Sme grw p
thkg that the tdrs s where y
play gl r swm. i grew p thkg that t
s where y g clmbg.
She started climbing the olympcs
as a tee ad by the tme she was i her
30s she had clmbed Aapra ad peaks
the Hmalayas as well as Alaska.
There are s may mtas the
wrld bt the pblc s s ascated by
Eerest, she ted. it stads r the spre-
me challege ad bggest test e ca dr esel. She added, it s a tese
experece . . . ad brgs t the best ad
wrst peple.
Stll, she ssts, the smmt the West
Rdge by Hrbe ad useldwh were
Whttakers 1963 teams wtht paral-
lel. A pwerl symbl cdece ad
adacty that thg else has beate.55
The mst mprtat thg abt the
Peace Clmb, sad Wds, s the lelg
redshps that were made.
She was one of the rstpeple t
ask t j the clmb, she sad, whe Whtta-
ker aced he was lkg r clmbers.
i lked the tercltral dmes the
Peace Clmb, sad Wds, wh had rged
redshps wth ther Set clmbers
1986 whle clmbg the Pmmers. Ad,
Eerest had captated her sce she was
How the Peace
Climb o 1990
led to lielong
riendships or
local climber
by bra Stracener
Maagg Edtr Woods (let) on the Peace Climb with Ekaterina Ivanova, the frst Soviet woman to climb Everest, who died in 1992
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What is the meaning o Mount Everest the clmbers eye? Da Mazr, Hmalaya mta gde r
SmmtClmb ad SmmtTrek, tk sme tme t rm preparats r the pcmg clmb seas t led hs ew
what Eerest meas ad aswer a ew ther qests abt the hghest pt Earth.
Mazr, lke the Whttakers, started clmbg hgh peaks as a teeager, bt Mtaa. Ad, lke the Whttakers, he
jed the Scts t prse tdr adetre whe he was t dg t drg hs amlys reqet campg trps
wth ther dg t ars atal parks.
Mazr gaed headles mst recetly 2006 whe hs
team resced Lcl Hall, a Astrala clmber wh had
bee let r dead at the 8,600-meter mark the mta
by a expedt that passed the straded clmber a day ear-
ler. A ew days prr t Halls resce, 40 clmbers had smlar-
ly passed by Brtsh clmber Dad Sharp wh wet resced
ad ded. i abadg ther w attempt the smmt
rder t sae Halls le, Mazr ad hs team were heralded
r phldg the blest tradt mtaeerg. Mazr
has clmbed see the wrlds 8,000-meter peaks ad led
expedts mre tha 15 tmes t the wrlds hghest peaks,
cldg see smmts Eerest. Whe he s t clmbg
he traels the wrld t rase mey r chartes sch as M-
t Eerest Fdat r Sstaable Deelpmet nepal
ad Tbet, r the Mta Fd. He les Brstl, Eglad,
as well as olympa, Washgt.
In your own wors, dan, what oes Everest mean to the
climing worl?
Eerest s the hghest mta r wrld. it rses abe
all else. Clmbg t s stll a wrthy challege ad sayg i
clmbed Eerest stll garers mch respect.
What inuence you to clim Everest?
i led mtaeerg nrth ad Sth Amerca. The
i tred the smaller peaks the Hmalaya. i sred ad ejyed thse early clmbs. Whe i was ered a chace t
clmb Eerest, i jmped at t.
What prove ierent than you thought eore setting out on Everest?
i thght t wld be ery challegg: the extreme cld, hgh wds ad ther dagers. oe the bg srprses rme was all the peple p there wh eeded t be helped, all the accdets ad tragedes. Stll i wated t d t, ad
ater dg s, i came away prdly mpressed by the hard-wrkg peple wh clmb Eerest ad ctally help
thers alg the way.
What o you see or Everests uture?
Eerest wll always be r wrlds hghest mta ad bggest challege. Bt ermetally Eerest s chagg.
The Khmb iceall seems t be gettg mre cmpressed at the base ad the hge creasses seem t be mg p
the Wester Cwm. The pper mta seems warmer ad drer tha t dd bere.55
Mazur in ull mountain mode
Guide Dan Mazur: Everest still a worthy challenge
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Continued on page 22
conditioning
Are you eyeing Everest or another
major? Here are some tness tips
It goes without saying that you should be in the shape o your lie to climb Mount Everest! Ths s
a credbly demadg clmb, ee r the strgest hgh-alttde gdes the wrld. Ths mta cat be derestmated;
t s a ery sers ad ptetally dagers dertakg. Y shld cslt wth yr gde serce ad/r ther pressal
tess strctrs t create a specc pla r the clmb.
Beyond spending several months at high altitude where yr bdy ctally gets weaker, y mst be prepared
r lg, stres days at extreme alttde carryg lads 3070 pds (1432 kg). Smmt day ca last twele t eghtee
hrs wth lttle t eat r drk ad maxmm tpt r early the etre tme. it s cmm t br well er 10,000 calres
smmt day. i yr bdy cat meet these demads, gettg t the smmt wll be t reach.
Day hkes ad mltday hkes lg dstaces at least ce a week r te-pls hrs at a stretch are the best way t tra r
a Mt Eerest clmb. Beyd ths, card trag at a hgher heart rate s mprtat. A rte e r sx days trag per
week s ecessary. Beg cdtg as early as pssble, ad cte t ramp p tl tw weeks bere the trp begs, the
taper rder t peak yr tess leel. Rest seeral days bere leag r Mt Eerest becase trael ad jet lag ca
take a tll the bdy. Mst mprtatly, dt hrt yrsel prr t the clmb! A spraed akle r brke arm ca ed yr trp,
ad wth the tme, mey, ad emtal estmet y wll hae made, ths cld be dsastrs y haet bght srace.
Excerpted from Clmbg the See Smmts, by Mike Hamill (Mountaineers Books 2013)
Pters rm traer, Mtaeer Crteay SchrmaThe biggest mistake I see s peple csg exclsely laded (.e.,
pack) cardasclar trag ad eglectg r rgettg the stregth regme. Ths
s especally crcal r smethg lke Deal, where yre halg 100-150 pds p
the mta (wtht sherpas, prters r pack amals t assst). Marathers ad
ee trathletes wtht adeqate stregth trag especally wll strggle a ex-
pedt lke Deal. Ther sprts se cmpletely deret mscle recrtmet patters
cmpared t clmbg, whch les a laded pack ad ared terra that te pses
physcal bstacles whle y are carryg weght.
it s mprtat t carry a weghted pack r at least tw, bt preerably three days
each week whle preparg. Trael wth mre weght the rt ed the tg ad
less weght, bt mre mleage ad ga, the secd r thrd day the trp t sm-
late the lg stretches a apprach ad the clmb. Ths apples t ly t Raer
Courtenay volunteering or a amily activity
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22 the mountaineer mar/apr 2013
Crteay has bee a member The M-
taeers sce 1990 ad a clmb leader sce
2003. She ad her hsbad, Dg, r BdyReslts, a mtaeerg-csed persal
trag std nrth Seattle. Crteay
tras clets ard the wrld a her le
WebTrag serce, helpg peple all ages
ad tess abltes prepare r clmbs. She
s c-athr The Outdoor Athlete (Hma
Ketcs 2008) ad c-prdcer the DvD,
Train to Climb Mt. Rainier or Any High Peak
(Bdy Reslts 2003). vst her webste at
www.bodyresults.com r ctact her r tra-
g qests at crt@bdyreslts.cm.
Abt Crteay Schrma
ad lcal glacated peaks the Cascades ad olympcs, bt all
the hgher See Smmts, partclarly Eerest, Accaga, ad
Deal.
I tell locals training for the Seven Summits t be
able t hke Mt S wth yr heaest atcpated day weght.
Ths maxmm lad mght be 120 pds Deal, csderg
sled ad pack, as ppsed t 30-35 pds Eerest. The, the
ery ext day rest day betweed Malbx Peak (4,000
t. ga), St. Heles r Camp Mr wth 80 percet the pres
days weght.
When do you start preparing? Fr smethg lke Raer,
target yr trag a mmm 3-4 mths bere the trp,
depedg basele r startg pt. Fr trps p Deal r
Eerest, prepare a mmm sx ramped-p mths bere the
trp (my le trag clets mst typcally tra 6-12 mths).
nte that these trag perds are blt tp what s already
a pretty gd basele tess r thse asprg t a majr r
e the See Smmts.
As or the amount o time to set aside r tra-
g, mst wh are already trag r the See Smmts are
already pretty deted. As pted t by Seven Summits athr
Mke Hamml, y ca expect t cmplete tw ll-bdy stregth
wrkts a week that last rghly a hr each ad r cardwrkts ragg testy ad drat. The shrter card
sess mght be 30-45 mtes, e t tw tmes a week, whle
crpratg e lg mdweek wrkt 60-90 mtes wth a
pack, pls lg clmbg-specc weeked hkes p t 8-12 hrs
as y apprach the clmb.55
mt adams mt baker denali mt elbrus mt hood mt kilimanjaro mt olympus mt rainier mt shasta volcanoes of mexico
join today and ascend some
of the worlds
most breathtaking peaks
to help raise funds
to support our mission to
find a cure.
benefiting
ClimbaMountain.
SaveaLife.
Fitness pointers rom a trainer(cted rm page 21)
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by Nicole Tsong
For my rst group hike wth the
Seattle (Brach) Mtaeers, a mderate
pace seemed qte reasable. A ater-
hrs hke sded lke the perect way t
sped a smmer ater/eeg.
Thg s, the ater-hrs hkes are
apparetly kw (t eerye bt me) as
beg rather brsk. Hke ad lear.
i shwed p at the meetg place
iterstate 90 r r hke p t Drty
Harrys Balcy. or grp see
was expereced ad packed wth ad
members The Mtaeers, cldg
ther peple wh reglarly lead hkes.
The group looked strong. Bt i was
mre ccered abt hw t aswer the
call atre wth a bch stragers
tha i was abt speed as i chatted
wth r grp leader, Bll Brm, ad
Mtaeers reglar Rch DBs the
carpl t the tralhead. (Grp slt
t the call atre: Call t party
separat ad separate.) i als was
excted abt the saety a larger grp
Who says
hiking is only
or weekends?March 10 marks the beginning of Daylight
Saving Time and opportunities to get
on nearby trails after workperhaps
to get in shape for more serious hikes
in summer. In this vein, we are happy to
reprint an article from freelance writer
Nicole Tsong that appeared in the Seattle
Tmes Pacic Northwest magazine last
August. While at it, we asked a few of our
Mountaineers hike leaders their after-
work favorites.Some leaders avorite ater-hours hikes
West Tiger Mountain No. 3: A great earby hke ater-hrs. Depedg hw
mch tme y hae ad es eergy leel ater wrk, y ca chse a mber
deret rtes t arre at the tp n. 3. oce there, great ews ca be had rm
a arety adjacet ew pts (weather permttg crse).
Mount Si: Whe i eel the eed r a sers ater-hrs wrkt, Mt S s a a-
tastc lcat that s als clse t Seattle. oe ca ga er 3,000 eet eleat
ad stll be hme by early eeg. i the sky s clear, y get great ews Seattle
ad the srrdg mtas.Bill Borom, Seattle Branch
Annette Lae:Ths has wrked r me as a eeg hke smmer. There s
geerally daylght thrgh the trees ad t s t a lg dre back t Seattle.
Bob Pankl, Seattle Branch
Olympia, Watershe Par: Jst mtes rm dwtw olympa, ths s a dese
m-rest that rals ay Washgts atal rests r atal parks. its 1.5
mles well-mataed tral s steep ad stepped places, as t llws Mxle
Creek. See mre at http://lympawa.g/cmmty/parks/parks-ad-trals/
watershed-park.
Priest Point Par: Three-pls mles seeral tral pts wth a cple hdredeet erall ga; beach access lw tde; ce ews the olympcs rm the
beach. Theres als the nsqally Wldle Rege, the Wester Chehals Tral ad
Captl Lake wth swtchbacks p t the germet bldgsmstly fat, bt
er gd exercse er as may mles as y wat, resh ar, trees ad ee wldle
(brds, eagles, seals, salm ther retr trp t the Deschtes Rer).
Greg Lovelady, Olympia Branch
Continued on page 36
To see moreabout some of these hikes and others, check out the Day Hike series
written by Craig Romanofrom Mountaineers Books.
Weekday hikes nearby are easy to fnd. The hiking group above stakes out Rattesnake Ridge near North Bend
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24 the mountaineer mar/apr 2013
establsh natal Wldle Reges r reg stads t.
Shes stll lbbyg Alaska ad Washgts ter cast slads.
In the world o achievementnmers rgazats hae awarded Hele ther legacy
awards, cldg Peple r Pget Sd ad natal Adb
Scety 2011. She receed the 1977 Dstgshed Ctze
Award rm the Mcpal Leage Tacma Perce Cty ad
was awarded Tacma Rtary Clbs rst ermetal award
1992. She ee has a award amed ater herthe Cascade Lad
Cseracy (w Frterra) tated the Hele Egle Letme
Acheemet Award 2004. i act, Rep. Dcks called hs receg
the Egle award 2010 e the greatest hrs hs
career.
Y mght call Hele Dctr Egle, t, sce the uersty
Pget Sd awarded her a hrary Dctr Scece May
2011 (see page 14 the Jly/Agst 2011 Mountaineer magaze.)
Whle she was bsy lachg ad spprtg all ths ctze
actst wrk, she was deeply led wth The Mtaeers.
She tk r taght crses basc clmbg, alpe trael,
mtaeerg-reted rst ad, ad amly acttes, ad she
als helped deelp The Mtaeers cserat prgram.
Alg wth her hsbad Sta, wh ded 2009, she c-chared
the Tacma Mtaeers aal baqet r may years. Heleals rgazed reglar eets t draw peple t the Tacma
Mtaeers, cldg the ermsly sccessl Ghsts
Eerest talk by Erc Sms.
Hele ddt d techcal clmbs, bt she made sre that ther
peple dd. A perpetal rgazer, she sered as Stas assstat
maager r hs expedts t Mt McKley as well as Per,
Ecadr, ad Mexc. All ths whle rasg see chldre. She
w has sx gradchldre ad tw great-gradchldre. (Her
graddaghter, Erca, s a clmber ad pressal gde traelg
the wrld ad teachg clmbg.)
The Salm Bakes that Hele ad Sta hsted brght peple
tgether t hr r regs greatest atral resrces, lke
alg the nsqally Rer at the cfece wth the Mashel Rer,
a area w prtected as a state park. The salm bakes med
t her backyard later years (als the ste the Egles Bg
Backyard Pccsdrawg er 200 peple . . . a ertable whs
wh amg the mers ad shakers r reg.)
Her recipe or making things happen
Jea MacGregr, a aclty member the Eergree State
Cllege ad reqet c-stgatr wth Hele, gae me Heles
t-s-secret recpe r makg thgs happe:
Frst, d yr hmewrk. Whe a ew sse cmes p, she gets
the phe wth eerye she ca thk t lear the sse
ad the scece behd the sse, sad MacGregr, wh tes
that Hele prbably has the bggest rldex ctacts the
ermetal ad legslate cmmty the state.
next, g t Egle iteret Strategy Leel 1. Hele gets back
the phe t eery pssble stakehlder t lear mre ad als
t see peple ca resle the sse bere t becmes a crss,lawst, r tra wreck. She talks t yg peple ad the CEo
Weyerhaeser alke.
i that dest wrk, the she reerts t Egle iteret
Strategy Leel 2: She tes eerye t her hse r sp. She
ecrages them t jst get t kw smee, becase ts hard
t demze smee y kw. Ths hghly eecte strategy
has dsed may crses ther acy, accrdg t MacGregr.
Cfct reslt seems t be a ate skll Heles.
Inspiring others to act
What spres Hele t adcate r the tdrs? i Helesw wrds: it all started wth my watg my amly t kw ad
apprecate the rchess ad wders the Pacc nrthwest
atral systems. i grew p my great gradathers Dat
Lad Clam prperty 1871. Whe we tk r lttle kds t
hkg, we saw mles r trals dsappearg as deelpmet
came alg r rers ad shreles. That spred her . . . t
lbby the Legslatre ad Cgress t act. oer the years, she
made lts gd reds amg my es as well as spprters.
n dbt all were welcme at Heles hse r sp.
i asked Hele what we ca d t mata ad ehace spprt
r the tdrs. Explre ad stdy what y see. Lear what
t s, hw t was rmed, why ts mprtat. i prtectg the
ermet we are prtectg the hma pplat as well.
Ald Lepld had t rght . . . we mst recgze that we are e
wth the ther le rms ths plaet, ad s, we are sag
rseles.55
A skill or bringing all sides together(cted rm page 9)
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impactgiving
When I tell people what I do or The Mountaineers, im te asked the qest, Why rase ds w, ater
beg ard r s lg? Gd qest.
Fr er 100 years The Mtaeers has sered as the remst tdr recreat rgazat the Pacc
nrthwestdedcated t edcatg ad sprg peple t explre the tdrs, t csere ad steward pblc lads
ad waterways. Led by hghly-traed ad expereced lteers, r prgrams cect peple wth atre ad create a
lastg apprecat r the atral ladscape. We wrk t spre a letme explrat ad le r the tdrs becase
sccessl cserat depeds t.
i 2011, the rgazat was grated 501(c)(3) stats becase The Mtaeers has lg sered r chartable ad
edcatal prpses by edcatg ts members ad the greater pblc wth thsads crses, acttes ad bks
tdr recreat ad cserat. operatg as a 501(c)(3) expads The Mtaeers capacty t rther ts mss by
makg t easer t rase tal ds rm ddal, dat ad crprate spprters.
The Mtaeers s rtate t hae bee able t rely membershp
des, crse partcpat ad ldge reee t ssta erts t get pepletsde, bt er the past ew years t has bee prate spprt that has
eabled the rgazat t est ew, emergg prgrams ad tates
that adace r mss ad help s stregthe r prgrams r the
bettermet the cmmty ad the atral wrld.
Private support has enabled The Mountaineers to:
Develop a suite of youth education programs that expereced 80 percet
grwth tw years. A brat ad grwg tdr cmmty depeds
gettg as may yg peple rm all walks le t the tdrs w. i
2012 we ered 2,340 yth expereces t 920 yg peple.
Reinvigorate a public lands program that wll steward The Mtaeers cserat legacy ad create tdrctzes. i 2011 we tegrated lw-mpact trag t r crse strct, prded stewardshp pprttes ad
edcat cserat ad pblc lads maagemet sses. i 2012 we dbled r reach t er 13,000 readers
wth a ew cserat e-ewsletter ad we prded er 6,000 hrs -the-grd stewardshp, cldg tral
ad clmbg area mateace ad cserat edcat.
Support 1,000 trained volunteers wh led r strcted mre tha 3,200 trps ad crses last year. vlteers
dete ther ree tme t lead, edcate ad spre thers the tdrs. We are dedcated t cltatg a lteer
tradt ad t spprtg r lteers erts t eable mre peple t get tsde.
Provide outdoor information to thousands bk byers. or recreat, lestyle ad cserat bks
cmplemet r prgrams ad spre geerats by preserg mtaeerg lteratres mst mprtat ad
hstrc wrks.
As we look to the uture, r hpe s that The Mtaeers tdr edcat ad cserat legacy wll edre
r geerats t cme becase the releat atre r mss, the pste mpact r prgrams r members,
the tdr cmmty ad the ermet, ad a reslte cmmtmet t stewardg r legacy. it wll be prate spprt
that wll make that dream a realty.
Mary Hsue
Director of Development
and Communications,
The Mountaineers
Private support is key to building outdoor citizens
A day at Mountaineers summer camp
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26 the mountaineer mar/apr 2013
naturesway
All our lives we are told theres no ree lunch. Bt Jh Kal-
las ca pre therwse. i act, as he eagerly pts t, theres ree lch
all ard s, we jst pe r eyes.
Sre, mst s eagerly plck jcy wld blackberres, hckleberres ad
ther rts that grw the Pacc nrthwest. Bt hw may s sca the
grd r sheep srrel r mers lettce? Ca y tell a dadel rm
cats ear? These cmm edble wld plats cld add far, textre ad
trtal ale t ay meal, drs r at a campgrd.
Kallas says wee gtte t tch wth the plats ard s, ad lack
the kwledge hw t se them. nate Amercas ad ther cltres
gathered wld plats as ther daly d. They ddt ew wld plats as el-
tes, they jst thght them as d. Geerats ag, parets passed ths
kwledge t ther chldre. i partclar, armers ad thers lg clse t
the lad held mre kwledge abt d plats ad kept that wth ther
amles. Bt as we became mre dstralzed, ths kwledge was l-
ger passed ad was lst, Kallas says. oe way t lk at t s that all wld
ds are tradtal ds.
There are so many preconceptions abt wld ds, Kallas says,
that ts essetal t hae a gd bk that meets yr w eeds ad pr-
des cmplete rmat abt wld ds. A gd gdebk s lke a ser
maal, he explas, that prdes tls r detyg plats at all stages
grwth, as well as ther edble parts at ther prme ad hw t prepare them
s they are ejyable r ee delcsespecally r the es that are
dstastel ther raw rm.
Perhaps the best kw wld ds adcate was Eell Gbbs, whse
bks the 1960s reawakeed sme terest, tes Kallas. Sce the, may
bks abt wld ds hae bee pblshed, ad Kallas has prbably read
eery e, bt he says the ast majrty are t ery sel. Mst all shrt
prdg clear phts r detcat ad helpl rmat abt
trtal ale ad hw best t eat wld ds. i y smply pck wld ds
wtht kwg hw t se them, Kallas says y ca ed p beg dsap-
pted ad tred t the whle dea.
Wild plants can have many parts that are edible ad tasty,
sch as leaes, rts ad fwers. Sme peple lk at kwledge abt wld
ds as smethg t se r sral. Bt Kallas s qck t pt t that
we ca easly crprate wld ds ad ther trtal bst t r daly
dets, ad eed t csder them sral ds. Sme these plats ca
be d yr yard r lcal eghbrhd.
Hs latest prject s wrtg the secd lme hs Wld Fd Adetre
Plenty o ood at your eet
to put on your table
Kallas, wld edble plats athr-
ty, strctr, researcher, ad
drectr Wld Fd Ade-tres, wll preset, Edble Wld
Plats: Wld Fds rm Drt
t Plate, April 18 at 7 p.m.
at The Mtaeers
Seattle Prgram Ceter.
Continue on page 38
by Joan E. Miller
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www.mountaineers.org
CameronZegers
ALASKA
UNLEASHEDBold Exclusive High Action
888-862-8881 Un-Cruise.com
Book by January 11, 2013 and receive a $100 per person Shipboard Credit.
Hands-on, weeklong, boat adventures
hosted by a local expert.
Only 3 departures & 36 like-minded adventurers.
7/30/2019 EVEREST Americans on Everest Perspectives: then and now Mountaineers celebrate 50th Training for the climb
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28 the mountaineer mar/apr 2013
See www.mountaineers.org for all details on Mountaineers Global Adventures
goingglobal
bacpac Colorao TrailAug. 16-28, 2013
Please see the eatre artcleabe r the trp descrpt.Price: $800 per pers cld-g -tral lxry camp wthder-breakast ad shwers(assmg 8 peple) Leader:Cheryl Talbert, cascadehker@earthlk.et, 253-229-4018.
Hie Italys dolomitesAug. 22-Sept. 12, 2013
The Dlmtes rther italyecmpass sme the mstbeatl hkg areas thewrld: gree alpe meadws,stretchg betwee charmgllage-stdded alleys adcraggy, awe-sprg karstmtas. Trd extesetercectg tpaths adst well-placed rg (hghalttde mta hts).Stay three- ad r-star h-tels each ght, wth btesbet breakasts ad mlt-
crse eeg meals clded the trp prce.Trp classcat s pper
mderate t stres adhkg days are lg, bt pace smderate.Price: $3,750 Leaders: SharHgshead ad Pal Gather,skmtr@al.cm, 425-957-4548 r 425-260-9316.
Presiential Traversein New EnglanAug. 31-Sept. 8, 2013
Hke early 25 mles theams tral the east, theAppalacha Tral, ad traersets presdetal peaksall abe
4,000 t. ad amed ater eghtu.S. presdets. The hghestpeak, Mt. Washgt, s 6,289t. A lght daypack s all thats eeded, as the hts prded ad beddg.Party limit: 9.Price: $998 (icldes ldgg,all meals, trasers rm Prt-
lad, Mae t THs ad retr,shttle trasers). Leader:Patt Plsky, meaysprts@
me.cm, 206-525-7464.Tre Austrias Zillertalhut-to-hutSept. 7-22, 2013
Ths tg cmbesspectaclar alpe sceery,Erpea cltre, ad greathkg. or 50-mle lp hast all: glacated 11,000-t.mtas, hgh alpe passes,deep alleys, wateralls,gemsbk mta atelpesad alpe rses.n techcal expertse
reqred, bt expect lg,stres days ad smealpe scramblg wth xedcables ad ladders. Hts arelarge s/gest hses. Carryly a daypack. The eght htshae d ad beddg.Price: $3,000. Please
cmplete the websteapplcat by Aprl 1. Leader:Crag Mller, cragmller@
cmcast.et.Tre Nepals Mustang,the forienkingomOct. 2-22, 2013
Ths tg cmbes amderate trek wth ews gat Hmalaya peaks,Tbeta Bddhst cltre,mtaeerg hstry, adspectaclar arplae fghts.Hghest alttde s ly12,595 eet. We wll camp tets. Prters wll hal yr
erght gear, s y carryly a daypack.Price: $3,500. Pleasecmplete the websteapplcat by March 1.Leader: Crag Mller,cragmller@cmcast.et.
The San Juan Mountains are a
hgh ad rgged sect Clradssther Rckes, pctated by sx
peaks er 14,000 eleat, ad sme
the lgest ew-lled ad remte
stretches tral that y ca d
aywhere the u.S.
Ad lke s mch the Rckes, the
peaks rse abe clrl rck ad ast
expases wldfwer-lled meadws.
The 483-mle Clrad Tral, whch rs
alg the crest the Sa Jas ad
beyd rm ear Drag, Clrad, tear Deer, has bee amed a le-lst
trp by Backpacker magaze readers,
ad as e Adrew Skrkas Tp-
10 Lg Trals National Geographic
Adventure magaze.
The Mtaeers wll be hstg a
backpack trp Agst 2013 alg
80 mles ths amazg tral, wth
sde trps t explre the abled peaks
the Greaders as well as the earby
Chcag Bas, a stg, hagg alley
srrded by 14-ers.
Trasprtat ad respply lgstcs
ca be cmplcated ths t--the-
way ctry, s were makg t smple
by prdg a shttle t the tralhead
ad a respply mdway, cmplete wth a
catered camp der, breakast ad ht
shwers.
As cg the cake ths amazg
experece, well sh r trp wth a
rde the hstrc Drag-Slert
narrw Gage tra alg the lely
Amas Rer back t r startg pt
Drag.
Fr aye wh years t reallyget away ad experece mles
rgettable tral hggg the
Ctetal Ddewth ew thers
ard the ctetal uted
States yll be hard pressed t d a
better ee tha ths.
The Colorado Trail through the San Juan Mountains
by Cheryl Talert
Looking down on the Animas River Basin
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www.mountaineers.org
offbelayArt Nation, lietime member
Hads jed tgether, Meaytes da-
ced ther weekly rtal prayer r the skes
t pe p ad trasrm the ladscape
t a wter wderlad. Sw, sw,
sw, sw! they chated, mg ad
rasg ther hads pwards, llwg
the Spke Jes gk hs aswerg
meldy as they backed t ther crcle.
Arthr nat was the ceter, playg
hs la, dacg, ad leadg s all a
celebrat lg le t ts llest. Ar-
thr W.C. nat certaly dd jst that, ad
thrgh The Mtaeers, he d sme
hs greatest expresss jy le.
Arthr W. C. nat, a Mtaeers le-
tme member 65 years, ded pem-
a nember 11, 2012. He was 84.
Sce jg The Mtaeers, he was
best kw as a Meay Sk Ht reglar. D-
rg the all wrk partes, he wld desg
ad x aythg lg electrcty, rm
sd ad cmmcat systems t rpe
tw saety gates. He als helped desg ad
bld brdges, ad kept hs temperametalcha saws serce t be aalable whe-
eer eeded.
Drg the wter, he was a ad dw-
hll sker wh als led may crss-ctry
sk trs p t the srrdg hlls.
Drg the eegs, he wld er hs
mscal talet the rm the Satrday
ght lk dace, weldg a la r a bass
t play wth hs reds a weekly bass.
Arthr was a clmber, as well, cmple-
tg the clmbg crse ard 1960. i
addt t reachg the smmts all the
Pacc nrthwest lcac peaks, he was
part a 1961 team that cmpleted rst
ascets Mt. Qee Mary ad Grdel-
hr Peak the Caada Yk terrtry.
The ame the latter s beleed t be
hs dg, wth GnuRDS (Grb nbbled
uder Really Desperate Stats) beg
a term he jkgly sed t descrbe the
lt ad crmbs at the bttm a weary
mtaeers pcket.
Arthrs gety als played a rle
the elt the ce ax glssade tech-
qe, tlmately clded Mtaeers
crse strct.
Arthr was als acte at the Ktsap
Frest Theater, where he played msc r
prdcts ad desged prtable sd
systems at a tme whch they were rare.
The Frest Theater was als the ste hs
marrage ceremy t Latrelle Hastgs
1969.
David Hambly, skilled climber
A Mtaeers member 45 years ad
sklled hgh alpe clmber, Dad Hambly
ded octber 2012 at the age 73.
Hs pass r clmbg ad mtaeer-
g was ly matched by hs err r
rg.
A Beg egeer wh grew p
Fshpds Brstl, uted Kgdm, Dad
tk the termedate clmbg crse, sk
mtaeerg ad wter trael crse
wth The Mtaeers. A u.S. Rer
the Year the Masters age ds
1980, Dads zeal r rg t well wth
a eqal zest r clmbg.
S ater hs arral the Pacc
nrthwest, 1966, he teamed p wth lcal
clmbers the crags ad smmts the
Cascade. Wth a ew years hs mta-
eerg terest expaded ad he bega aqest that led hm t tackle sme the
hghest ad mst dclt mtas the
wrld.
i 1978 Dad jed a Brtsh-Amerca
team t make the seeth recrded ascet
idas 25,643 nada De. Ths dclt
ascet had bee preceded by a ascet
idas 23,360 Trsl 1975. Dad wet
t attempt Eerest rm the rth 1984
(reachg 28,200) ad rm the sth
1988 (reachg 26,400). He reached the
smmt tw 8,000-meter peaks: Ch
oy 1986 ad Brad Peak 1992.
i all hs hgh-alttde mtaeerg
Dad eer sed spplemetary xyge,
stead preerrg t make hs attempts
a classcal lght-weght style.
Dad ed hs pass r rg ad
mtaeerg, as well as bk cllectg,
ater he retred rm a 45-year career at
Beg 2011 ad tl the day he ded. A
memral serce was held Jaary 6, 2013wth remembraces beg made t The
Mtaeers.
Fred Ostmann, ski instructor
A chershed leader ad strctr M-
taeers sk crses r the Tacma Brach,
Fred ostma ded rm a exteded
lless Jaary 7, 2012 at the age 73.
Fred, wh jed The Mtaeers
1996, trdced may begg skers
ad Mtaeers ewbes t the ad
adetre backctry skg. He was
kw r hs great cersatal ablty
a wde arety tpcs drg dres
t ad rm the swy slpes ad trals.
He was als kw r hs atral teachg
skll as well as hs pechat r perect,
carel t eer let t bstrct the learg
prcess wth stdets.
Br nrmbrg, Germay 1939,
he emgrated t the uted States 1950ad med t Tacma 1985. Drg hs
career Fred was a teacher, sclptr, arch-
tect, ad cstrct maager. A lg
hsbad ad ather, he was als a taleted
dratsma ad desger wh ejyed t
ly skg bt mta clmbg, hkg,
bcyclg, swmmg ad ckg.
7/30/2019 EVEREST Americans on Everest Perspectives: then and now Mountaineers celebrate 50th Training for the climb
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30 the mountaineer mar/apr 2013
ACCOUNTING - TAX SERVICES
Vivienne E. Mitchell (Jed 1983)
Hersman, Serles, Almond PLLC
520 Krklad Way, Ste. 300
Krklad, WA 98033
www.cpahsa.cm
vMtchell@cpahsa.cm
425-602-9272
BANKING - LENDING
Leah Schulz (Jed 2006)
Tri Star Finance
1400 112th Ae. SE, Ste. 100Bellee, WA 98004
www.leahdschlz.cm
leah@TrStarFace.cm
206-523-1288
BODY WORK
Christopher Hall (Jed 2011)
Chris Hall DC, CCSP Chiropractic Sports
Physician
1215 120th Ae nE, Ste. 100
Bellee, WA 98005
www.drchrshall.cm
chrs@drchrshall.cm425-455-3300
Hope Maltz (Jed 2007)
Moving Into Comfort Feldenkrais Method
1409 140th Pl. nE
Bellee, WA 98007
www.MgitCmrt.cm
hpe@MgitCmrt.cm
425-998-6683
CONTRACTOR - ROOFING
Louie Coglas (Jed 1987)
Louie Company Roong Specialist
3109 228th St. SW, Brer, WA
www.LeCmpay.cm
earthhmr@cmcast.et
206-963-4521
WA Lc #: LouiEC902C6
Mountaineers Business Members value the spirit, volunteerism and history of The Mountaineers and support theorganizations mission: . . . to enrich the community by helping people explore, learn about, conserve and enjoy the lands and
waters of the Pacic Northwest. They are a community within the community of The Mountaineersall sharing the same interest
and passion for the outdoors. We thank the following Mountaineers business owners for their support.
FINANCIAL SERVICES
Mearl bergeson (Jed 2011)
Merrill Lynch Wealth Management
1215 4th Ae., Ste. 2600
Seattle, WA 98161
www.a.ml.cm/mearl_berges
mearl_berges@ml.cm
206-464-5632
REAL ESTATE - SALES
Leah d. Schulz (Jed 2006)
The Force Realty
12507 Bel-Red Rd. #103Bellee, WA 98005
www.RealEstateByLeah.cm
leah@leahdschlz.cm
206-523-1288
Cisca Wery (Jed 2003)
Windermere Real Estate Company
8401 35th Ae. nE
Seattle, WA 98115
www.LakeWA.cm
csca@wdermere.cm
206-715-7187
REAL ESTATE - APPRAISALS
bruce Wolverton (Jed 1992)
Frontier Appraisal Services
Serg Kg, Shmsh,
islad & Perce Ctes
www.FrterApprasals.cm
brcewl@cmcast.et
425-344-2296
SOFTWARE - GIS - MAPPING
Tom Gasins (Jed 2011)
LandPrint.com 3-D terrain models
9302 157th Pl. nE
Redmd, WA 98052
www.LadPrt.cm
tm@LadPrt.cm
206-790-7640
TRAVEL SERVICES
Amrose bittner (Jed 2009)
Red Lantern Journeys Asia tours & treks
1000 n. nrthlake Way, Ste. H
Seattle, WA 98103
www.redlaterjreys.cm
ambrse@redlaterjreys.cm
206-568-0710
businessdirectory
Want to be a Mountaineers Business Member?
Desged r the small usiness owners r mdst, ths categry Mta-
eers membershp prdes a pprtty r cmmtted members t spprt The
Mtaeers at a ee hgher leel. i recgt ths creased spprt ad
addt t all ther member beets, bsess members recee a Bsess Member
Drectry lstg ths magaze ad r webste, as well as tats t specal
membershp eets.
T d t mre abt pcmg bsess member eets ad pprttes t
get mre led wth ths grp, ctact Leah Schlz a emal, leah@leahdschlz.
cm r by phe at 206-523-1288.
Fr a complete list membershp beets ad hw t access them, see r
Memer benetspage: www.mtaeers.rg/membershp/beets.cm. Y ca
als d aswers t reqetly asked qests abt the prgram le a The
Mtaeers Spprt page: http://help.mtaeers.rg. or ctact @m-
taeers.rg; 206-521-6001.
An rememer: as a mss-based ad lteer-dre, 501(c)(3) prt, all
bt $10 yr des are tax-euctile t the ll extet the law.
To learn more about becominga Mountaineers Business Member:info@mountaineers.org,206-521-6001
7/30/2019 EVEREST Americans on Everest Perspectives: then and now Mountaineers celebrate 50th Training for the climb
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www.mountaineers.org
membershipmatters
Proles: our members make the dierence
UPCOMING EVENTSRaical Reels:Tuesay, March 12, 7 p.m.The Mtaeers Seattle Prgram Ceter (see ad belw).
by Valerie Norman
Membershp Prgram Maager
THANK YOU MEMBERS! Last mth as part theEach oe Reach oe challege, we asked y t share yr
Mtaeers stres ad descrbe yr w wrds what y
ale mst abt beg a Mtaeer. Here s what sme y
had t say:
"i jed t take the Alpe Scram-
blg Crse, ad sce the ie als
take the salg, kayakg, ad basc
ad termedate clmbg crses.
i am w a basc agat crse
leader, sharg wth ew Mta-eers what my metrs taght me abt maps ad cmpasses.
its a great eelg kwg that i am able t pass alg the
shared wsdm ths terrc rgazat ad t help thers
be sae ad hae grad adetres r spectaclar mta
ad water wlderess. Bill Ashby, member since 2008
i really ejyed partcpatg ctze
scece as a Alpe Lakes Weed Watcher. it
gae me added prpse r my tgs t the
great tdrs r area.
Yoshiko Miltimore, member since 2002
Why d i apprecate The Mta-
eers? i'e made lelg reds ad
leared hw t hke 20 mles a day
the Cdtg Hkg Seres. nw, as a
leader r the crse, i ca pay t rward
ad teach thers t d the same.
Steve Payne, member since 2006
. . . Beyd the bs beets
deals bks, gear, etc.i lke the
dea that i am part a rgazat
that s led stewardshp the
lad ad s helpg the ext geera-
t apprecate what they hae . . . The
Mtaeers s a srce persal
ctact wth lke-mded sls lkg
t the tdrs r the adetre they eed."
Leonard Ingalls, member since 2011
Mountaineers members understand better tha aye
the ale belgg t a grp that shares yr le the
tdrs. it s de t the tal spprt members lke y that
we are able t cte r recreat, edcat ad csera-
t erts the cmmty. n matter what yr tdr gals
arewhether y wat t get t t ga a smmt, get ew sklls
t ga the leadershp edge, r jst hae wth reds tsde
The Mtaeers ca help y get there.
Have you used your benets lately? Fr a cmplete lst
member beets ad hw t access them, y ca always lg
t r webste ad check t r Member Beets page, www.
mtaeers.rg/membershp/beets.cm, r ctact Member
Serces, 206-521-6001, r @mtaeers.rg.
OLYMPIA:friay, March 8, 7:30 pm at the Captl Theater
olympa. TiCKETS: Aalable at The Alpe Experece,
dwtw olympa.
SEATTLE: Tuesay, March 12, 7 pm at Mtaeers Se-
attle Prgram Ceter, 7700 Sad Pt Way nE. TiCKETS:
www.brwpapertckets.cm. inFo: www.mtaeers.rg/
radcalreels.
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32 the mountaineer mar/apr 2013
Welcome to our seven branches o The MountaineersPrpelled by dedcated ad sklled lteers, all braches er a mber crses ad semars. May crses, sch as clmbg,
scramblg, kayakg, backctry skg ad thers, reqre a set leared sklls t ejy saely ad llw a cmm crrclm rm
brach t brach. Sme, hweer, may hae slght dereces the ames the crses they hld cmm, sch as Swshe Leel
1 ad Swshe Lte; Swshe r Backctry Sk Crse ad Wter Trael; r Salg Crse ad Crewg Crse. Jst lk r the
descrpts whe stg crse rmat le r ths Mountaineer. See crse eets the G Gde sect ths maga-
ze. Althgh r prgram crrcla are crdated t meet Mtaeers-wde stadards ad plces, each brach ers a slghtly
deret far r character t ts ergs. Thgh y may wat t j the brach earest t yr hme, y may j ay brach
yr chsg. nte that ce y are a member y may partcpate trps r crses ay brach. oe way t ga a taste test a
partclar brach s t atted a ew/prspecte members meetg. Geeral dates these meetgs are ted der each brach head-
g. Fr all crret