Post on 06-Apr-2018
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Betta Fish Secrets
ByMike Worthington
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Chapter 1: The History, Background and Biology of
Your Betta Fish
Betta fish are easily recognized by their brilliant coloring and long
flowing fins. They run the gamut of the rainbow - everything from
blue to red to white, and the female especially will usually have
horizontal stripes. As in many species in nature, the female Betta fish
is not as brilliantly colored, and her fins will be shorter than her male
counterpart. To find out more about Betta coloring, read the chapter
on "Breeding and Spawning Your Betta Fish."
Betta fish are prized as much for their unique personalities and their
warmth towards their owners as for their beautiful colors and flowing
tales. Experienced Betta owners insist that each Betta has its own
personality traits, habits and methods of communicating theirfeelings, needs and wants.
Betta fish also make excellent "first fish" for children because of their
high degree of interactivity, their personalities and the fact that they
children can master the steps required in their care and feeding and
need only a little help with the tank cleaning and water changing
processes.
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Classification and Basic Overview
Category: Fish -> FreshwaterKingdom: Animalia
Phylum: Chordata
Class: Actinopterygii
Order: Perciformes
Betta Family: Belontiidae
Genus: Betta
Species: splendens
Scientific Name: Betta Splendens
Common Name: Siamese Fighting FishOrigin: Cambodia, Thailand,
Indonesia, Malaysia, Vietnam and parts of China
Natural Habitat: Bettas originated in Thailand - (formerly called
Siam, which is how they got their common name)
Basic Information:
Lifespan: 2-3 years
Adult Size: 3 inches (7 cm)
Socialization: Males cannot be kept together as they can be
aggressive. Bettas react poorly to stress, and if kept in stressful
conditions for a period of time, will become nervous and get
physically sick.
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Minimum Tank Size: 3 gallon (Although it's become "chic" for Betta
fish to be sold or kept in flower vases, this is actually cruel to the fish,
since it's very difficult to maintain the water temperature needed and
doesn't give them enough room to swim around.)
Tank Level: Top dweller
Water Type: Fresh water
Optimum pH Level: 6.8 - 7.4
Water Hardness: up to 20 dGH
Water Temperature: 75-86 F (24-30 C) Bettas originated in tropical
countries and therefore their water temperature needs to be
consistently maintained.
Diet: Live food is preferable, freeze-dried foods have the fewest
parasites and is much better for their health they will eat flakes and
frozen foods if there is no alternative.Care: Easy to Intermediate
Breeding: Egg layer - bubble nest
History and Background
Historically speaking, Betta Fish are said to have gotten their name
from an ancient clan of Asian warriors called the "Bettah." They were
given these warriors' names because about 150 years ago people
enjoyed participating in a popular sport that involved the fighting of
two of these warrior fish. (In fact, the sport was so popular that it was
regulated - and taxed - by the King of Siam!)
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One interesting note about Betta fish fighting is that, unlike cock or
dog fighting in the west, at Siamese fighting fish tournaments, the
actual fight was more to test the bravery of the fish, rather than a fight
to see how much damage would be inflicted, or a death match.
Spectators bet on how long a particular fish would fight, and which
one would give up first. (In fact, most fish would only fight once or
twice, and then live out the remainder of their lives being pampered
and used for breeding.)
Natural Habitat
A Betta fish's natural habitat is in shallow, tropical water. This is
because they need to be able to surface frequently, in order to
breathe air. They can be found in nature in rice paddies, drainageditches, slow moving streams and fresh water ponds. Betta fish have
even been known thrive in large puddles! Their natural food source is
insects and mosquito larvae.
How Breeding Began
According to historical accounts, a close friend of the King of Siam,
Dr. Theodore Cantor received a pair of breeding Bettas from the king
in 1840. The doctor bred them and studied them for several years,
and then wrote a scientific paper about them, giving them a Latin
name of "Macropodus Pugnax." However, shortly after his paper was
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How to Tell the Difference Between Male and Female
Betta Fish:In addition to being brighter colored and having longer fins, the
easiest way to tell males from females is to put the new Betta fish in a
flat sided container and put it next to the tank of another male. If it
flares up at the site of the other male Betta, then congratulations, it's
a boy. If, on the other hand, it suddenly shows vertical stripes, then
the Betta fish is a girl. (Female Betta fish - when they're older than 4
months - will have a bumpy white spot on their underbellies. It's the"ovipositor" (egg spot) where she'll release her eggs from when she's
breeding.
The Labyrinth
Betta Fish are called anabantids because they breathe surface air,much the same way we do, through special organs called "labyrinth
organs." This is a small chamber that takes in air, much the way our
lungs do. Because of this, you won't need to use aeration, but you'll
have to make sure that the tank isn't overfilled, so that your Betta can
swim to the top and gulp in the air he needs. By the way, your
Betta's labyrinth only functions when it's moist, so it's very important
that he doesn't jump out of the tank, and that he can easily get to the
surface.
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The Fins and the Tails
The long, flowing fins of the Betta fish are what make it so beautiful
and sought after by aquarium owners today, and it is by the shape of
their tails that the different breeds are named. Thanks to current
breeding methods, there are several different breeds of Betta Fish
available today. Here's a short list:
Crown Tail: The "rays" or spines of the tail extend beyond the
webbing. This gives the tail a kind of coronet shape andappearance. The most common Crown Tails have a single ray,
although breeders have now bred Double-Ray Crown Tails, and
"Double-Double Ray" and finally "Double Double Double Ray"
Crown Tails. Because of their scarcity and rareness, these
Bettas are very costly. If you're just starting out, you'll probably
want to start with a more common variety.
Double Tail: This is another genetically bred Betta that is rare
and can only be purchased from a breeder. The tail is split into
two halves, making it appear to have two tails.
Half Moon: The tail is so wide that it forms a kind of half-moon
shape. Very graceful and beautiful to look at, these Bettas are
often the most sought-after.
Delta Tail: The tail forms a triangle because the outside rays of
the tail are the same length as the middle ones. If you're
planning to "show" your Betta, find one with the largest Delta.
Round Tail: The tail actually appears round on this breed.
The shape comes from the middle rays being the longest, with
progressively shorter rays growing out on from the middle.
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Veil Tail: This is the most common variety of Bettas sold in pet
stores. The bottom fin rays are longer than the top rays. When
flared, they have a diamond rectangular shape. These fish are
seldom used by show professionals or breeders, who consider
them too common.
SAFETY TIP: Your Betta loves
to jump - and will jump out of the
tank if he gets the chance! You
need to take precautions to assure
that this doesn't happen, because
not only does he risk injuring
himself, if he's out for too long, your
The Mouth
Some Betta owners say one of the reasons they were first attracted
to the fish because they appeared so "happy." The shape of the
Bettas mouths have also been compared to that of bulldogs, both
because of the pugilistic look and upturned corners. Something
interesting to note is that the Betta's bite actually has the comparable
power to that of a shark, although because of its size, it won't hurt
you, even if it were to give you an affectionate little "nip" to say hello.
Betta fish take in oxygen through their mouths, so when they swim to
the top of the tank to catch a breath of air, they may look like they're
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talking or singing. There have even been Betta owners who insist
that their fish sing along with certain songs when played on the radio.
But for all its power, the Betta fish's mouth is also made to be
incredibly gentle. When spawning, the male Betta will swim to the
bottom of the tank, gently scoop up the eggs in its mouth and carry
them safely to the bubble nest.
To find out more about the bubble nest and how the breeding and
spawning processes work, read the chapter on "Breeding Your Betta
Fish".
Because they're so easy to take care of,Betta fish are great "first pets" for children,
who can learn quickly how to feed and care
for them, and need only a little help from
you with water changes.
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Chapter 2: Preparing Your Betta Fish's New Home
You should have your Betta fish's new home all set up before you go
to the pet store, or order him from a reputable breeder. Taking the
time to plan and prepare the perfect environment will help to ensure
that your Betta fish thrives.
Because Betta fish don't react well to stress, there are several factors
to consider when deciding where to set up your Betta's new home.
Of course you're going to want to place the tank somewhere where
you'll be able to see it and enjoy it, but there are also some other
practical considerations to take into account. For example:
The Ideal Tank Size:
Actually, there is some controversy about the best tank size for Betta
fish. Because in their natural environment they live in small shallow
water, some people believe that Bettas can - and even should - be
kept in any small container - such as a goldfish bowl or large glass
vase.
Others believe this is cruel to the fish, and believe that on a
psychological and emotional level Bettas experience less stress, and
are happier when they've got room to swim around.
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One important factor that people forget is that, when they're in their
natural environment, although they may live in a small, shallow pool
of water, it is part of an entire eco-system that is constantly being fed
with fresh water, which helps to clean and maintain it while removing
harmful bacterium. You won't have that in a small fishbowl or
aquarium. And the smaller the tank size, the more difficult it is to
maintain the constant water temperature your fish needs.
No matter what tank size you choose, make sure that you've got
some places for your Betta to hide, and especially if you're putting
him into a tank with other fish, that he can choose for his own private
territory. And remember, if you run into water quality issues, or one
of your fish has a disease, it's going to spread like wildfire in an
overcrowded tank!
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[This is an example of an overcrowded fish bowl
- and is a bad idea. Not only will it stress the
fish, which could kill them, but putting too many
fish in too small of a tank will cause fighting and
injuries.
I'm squarely in the middle of the tank size controversy and believe
that the minimum tank size for a Betta should be at least 3 gallons
(11.36 liters), and up to 10 gallons (37.86 liters), especially if you're
going to keep other fish, or have more than one Betta in the tank.
(Get anything bigger than 10 gallons (37.86) liters and you'll run into
issues with cleaning the tank and maintaining the proper water
temperature).
The Ideal Site for Your Fish Tank:
When deciding where to set up your tank, remember this:
Water is heavy - one gallon of water is equal to about 8 pounds
(3.63 kilograms), so you're not going to want to be lugging it
around.
Make sure that whatever surface you place the tank on is
strong enough to support it, and large enough that the tank isn't
going to be close to any edges, and can't be easily knocked off
or bumped by passers-by.
Never place your tank where it will be in direct sunlight, or
heating or air conditioning units, or near a draft. (Not only can
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the sun raise the temperature of the tank too high, it also spurs
the growth of certain algae which are bad for your fish.
Likewise, water that's too cold, or constantly fluctuates can be
deadly for Betta fish.)
Choose a site that has a natural day/night cycle. (In other
words, don't choose a location that has light or dark all the time
so that your Betta doesn't get agitated or depressed.)
In order to keep the water temperature constant, you'll need to
invest in a heating system. Which means you'll need an
electrical outlet near the tank.
Make sure that the tank isn't near stereo or video equipment,
especially if you like loud music. The constant vibrations will,
over time, stress out and agitate your Betta fish, and chances
are, he'll react by getting sick, or becoming listless and inactive.
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The Best Aquarium for your
Betta Fish:When it comes to aquariums, tanks and
bowls, you'll have an amazing variety to
choose from, based on your budget, your
likes and your needs. You'll also have
your choice between glass and acrylic.
(Remember though that acrylic tanks often
need additional support or treatments at
the edges to prevent leaking).
Something else to remember for your
Betta fish - since he needs to breathe
frequently, make sure that the tank is
wider than it is deep - you don't want himto have to struggle to get to the surface.
In fact, an idea depth is about 10 inches
(25.40 centimeters) from the bottom of the
tank to the surface.
How to Prepare the Tank:
Don't skip this vital step or your Betta fish
could get sick and even die. No matter
whether you're using a brand new tank or
a used one, you need to make sure that
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it's prepared correctly for your Betta. Luckily, if you follow these
steps, you can make sure that your Betta lives a long and happy life.
New Aquarium:
The waste that your Betta excretes turns into ammonia, and other
waste and debris turn into nitrites that, unless treated or turned into
less harmful compounds, can poison it. This phenomenon sadly
happens to fish when they are put into a brand new tank that hasn't
been properly prepared. It's called "New Tank Syndrome" and it
happens because new aquariums don't have the natural and
beneficial bacteria that consume those compounds. In fact, the
whole biological process of creating the good bacteria can't start until
you introduce your fish into the tank.
If you've bought a new aquarium, the easiest and quickest way to
protect your Betta fish is to "seed" it by adding some aquarium gravel
from an established tank. But if you don't have any used aquarium
gravel, take heart because here are the steps you need to take to
protect your Betta and help him to stay healthy and happy:
1. When you buy your aquarium, also buy a testing kit to measure
nitrates and ammonia. For the first little while, you're going to
need to test daily - you want to monitor the levels of ammonia
and nitrate in your tank - if they start going up or keep going
up, it means you don't have enough good bacteria in the tank.
You'll want the ammonia and nitrate levels to be close to zero.
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And the pH levels should be from 6.8 to 7.0 - slightly acidic to
neutral, which will mimic their natural environment.
. Before filling the tank with water, wipe out any dust. (You can
buy aquarium disinfectant or make your own - see the recipe in
the section on cleaning a used tank.) Use paper towels rather
than cloths, so that you don't add any chemical residue, such
as fabric softener on the glass.
. Replace about 20 to 25% of the water in the tank three times a
week during the "break in" process. Here's the easiest way to
do this. Let's assume you have a five gallon tank. (Make the
appropriate adjustments depending on the size of your tank.)
Fill it with four gallons and then take a magic marker, and in an
inconspicuous place, mark where the water line is. Then as
you're changing the water, simply draw out enough to reach
that line, and replace that much. By the way, don't take yourfish out of the tank when you're changing the water. It's
actually easier on them and causes less stress.
. When changing the water, add teaspoon of aquarium salt per
gallon to the new tank water. Aquarium salt helps prevent
stress, adds needed minerals and electrolytes your Betta fish
needs and also helps to prevent diseases.
. Buy a package of Java Moss. It also consumes the nitrates
and ammonia that your Betta fish excretes, so it will help to
keep your tank cleaner. It also has the added benefits of not
requiring sunlight and it doesn't grow roots. Plus, you'll only
need to buy it once. If you need to add some to another tank,
simply tear off a hunk from the first tank and there you go. (By
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the way, make sure when putting Java Moss into a new tank
that the fish in the first tank aren't sick - otherwise the bacteria
will transfer as well, making the new fish sick.)
. Don't feed your Betta fish much during while you're going
through this process. Betta fish can actually go up to ten days
without eating, and the less food they eat, the less waste they
produce, plus you reduce the amount of harmful bacteria and
parasites that can gain a foothold until there's an adequate
amount of nitrifying bacterium to control them. If you still have
food floating around after five minutes, then you're feeding your
Betta too much!
Safety Tip: Don't add antibiotics to the
water during this time. Although it can
seem like an easy way of getting rid ofany bad bacterium, and speed up the
process of protecting your Betta,
antibiotics can't determine the
difference between good and bad
After about two months of testing, you should discover that the nitrate
levels in your tank are remaining consistently low, which means that
you've built up enough positive bacteria that you can switch to regular
cleaning and water changing methods. (If they're not, then continue
the introduction method until they are.)
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By the way, it takes between 6 to 8 weeks for the levels to stabilize
after adding fish to your aquarium for the first time - so don't be
alarmed if the water is clear some days and cloudy others during that
time. The best way to deal with this problem is to do change about
25% of the water once a week until has completed the cycle, and the
levels of nitrate and ammonia have leveled off.
Used Aquarium:
If you have a used aquarium, or you buy one, it's important that you
make sure you clean it thoroughly to destroy any lingering "bad"
bacteria. But in this case, cleaning it doesn't mean using soap (Soap
leaves a residue which can actually harm your fish.) Follow these
steps and you'll ensure that your Betta is safe:
1. Use a scraper and remove any algae from the sides of the tank.
2. Create your own cleanser by sprinkling baking soda over thewalls of your aquarium. Then using a mixture of one part
vinegar to four parts water in a spray bottle, spray the walls of
your aquarium. Let this mixture sit for several minutes. (It will
bubble.)
3. Using a scrubby (or a sponge with the abrasive side), scrub the
walls of your aquarium. Rinse at least 3 times, using very hot
water.
4. If you still see any residue, wipe it down with a scrubby again,
this time using straight lemon juice. (When finished, rinse again
a couple of times to make sure that it's completely clean.)
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Aquarium Heaters - Do You Really Need One?
While it can be difficult to maintain the water temperature in a tank,
it's absolutely necessary that you have one. There are two reasons
for this. First of all, if your Betta gets too stressed out over a period of
time, his immune system will become compromised, and he'll begin
to lose his ability to fight off infection and disease.
The second reason is that your Betta is used to living in water that is
between 75 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit - and he will become listless
and unresponsive if the water is too far above or too far below that
temperature. This becomes even more important in a large tank.
It's also very important that you maintain a fairly consistent
temperature in your Betta fish's tank. Your fish won't handle extreme
temperature changes either. By the way, it doesn't take much of a
water temperature change - just the matter of a couple of degrees
Fahrenheit - for your Betta to be affected - so this is something you
really need to pay attention to.
The unit of measurement for aquarium heaters is in watts. When
trying to decide on which heater will be best for you, a good basic
guideline is 5 watts per gallon of water. Make sure that the heater fits
your tank and, if it's an internal one, can be properly inserted.
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If you're not sure and you didn't buy the tank and heater together,
take the tank with you to the store, and ask the manager to help you
get the right one.
Two Types of Heating Systems:
Safety Tip: Whichever heating
unit you choose, don't rely on
that unit alone. Buy a backupthermometer, such as the kind
that sticks to the outside of the
tank, and use it to double check
the water temperature.
There are two main types of heating systems - internal and external.
You'll have to decide which one works best for you - and if you have
any questions, ask your local pet store or your Betta breeder for
recommendations based on your tank set up.
One other important thing to keep in mind is the water circulation -
without proper water circulation, you're going to have "hot spots" and
"cold spots" in the water, both of which can be harmful to your Betta
fish. Heaters cost anywhere from about $20 to $50, although like
with anything else, you can find more expensive models.
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Internal Tank Heating Systems:
Internal heating systems are the most common. They usually consist
of a glass tube anywhere between 4 inches (10.16 cm) to 12 inches
(30.48 cm) long. Some offer a built-in thermostat, while others will
have an external thermostat, usually outside the tank and are usually
used to control multiple heating units.
External Tank Heating Systems:
There are several different models of external heating systems, such
as a model which fits under the tank and heats the water from below,
or one that connects to the filtering system. They are widely available
both online and off.
Decorating Your Aquarium
There are as many choices for decorating your aquarium as there are
fish to fill it. Your Betta fish will enjoy having a beautifully decorated
home the same as you do - but there are a few things to remember
to keep him happy and safe.
NEVER use any metallic decorations in your aquarium. Most
metals will leech minute amounts of residue into the water and
that will, over time, poison your Betta
Don't use fabric plants in your aquarium
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Be careful of any decorations with sharp or serrated edges that
could catch or tear your Betta Fish's fins
Do not use colored stones, decorative rocks or small stones
from your garden or marbles in the tank with your Betta fish.
(In addition to harboring bacteria, your fish could injure himself
- many Bettas like to toss their gravel, or hide under it.)
Do add caves or other decorations your Betta can use to hide
himself in. (This is especially important if there will be other
fish in the tank. Bettas are extremely territorial, and need to
have a space to go to when they need a little "alone time".)
Some Bettas like to rest near the top of the tank on a horizontal
floating leaf or other decoration that they can swim on and off
of when they want to.
Pay attention to decorations with small holes or crevices that
your Betta could swim into and get stuck - Bettas love
exploring tiny hiding places, but sometimes once they're in,
they can't get back out!
Because Bettas love to jump - especially when they're happy,
it's also a good idea to install a mesh web or other covering
over the top of your tank. This will protect your Betta from
jumping out of his tank and not being able to get back in.
Putting some plants in your fish tank does more than make it look
nice. Real plants offer several advantages to plastic ones: they
increase the oxygen in the water, and provide a place for your Betta
to hide, rest, and even anchor his bubble nest to. Of course, you
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have to weigh those advantages to the fact that, because they are
alive, you'll have to take care of them as well.
Check with your pet store or Betta breeder for the right plants for your
Betta fish based on the type and size of your tank, the number of
Bettas you'll have and the area you live in.
The Best Water for Your Betta:
First of all, let's dispel a myth about the best water for your Betta fish
- it is NOT using bottled water! Many people, in an effort to give their
fish the best possible environment will rush out and buy the most
expensive bottled waters on the market. But the truth is, not only do
most bottled waters not contain the essential minerals your fish
needs, they may also contain some harmful chemicals. Likewise, you
should never use distilled water or water that has been "purified" inany way - including through a carbon filter. This water won't have
the minerals that your Betta needs.
The actual best water for your Betta fish is just plain old tap water!
(By the way, if you've been using bottled water in the past, don't
worry. It won't kill your fish, but unless your local tap water is so bad
that you don't drink it either, switch back to tap water ASAP. And if
you have to used bottled water, make it spring water, and follow the
steps below, to make sure that you remove any harmful chemicals
before adding it to your Betta's tank.)
Of course, because most of the water we drink is chemically treated,
there are a few steps to follow to make the water safe for your Betta
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aquarium) and Under Gravel Filters (they use a tube to suck
aquarium water through a filter in the bottom of the aquarium).
Box filters are the most common type of filtration system for
freshwater aquariums. They consist of a pump, a filter and a carbon
insert. They're housed in a plastic box that sits on the back of the
aquarium. Water goes through a small tube that's inside the
aquarium, is drawn up and through the filter and carbon insert and
then flows back down into the aquarium.
Box filters provide chemical, biological and mechanical filtration for
your aquarium. The filter also acts as the base for colonizing
nitrifying bacteria (the good bacteria you want to have growing in your
tank) - this is the biological filtration process. Capturing the debris in
the water is the mechanical filtration process. And the carbon filterprovides the chemical filtration process by removing organic material
(waste) from the aquarium water.
The main advantage for using a box overflow system is that it's easy
to set up, change filters and clean.
Undergravel Filters work by using an uplift tube to draw water through
a filter plate located in the bottom of the aquarium. These filters use
a biological filtration process to keep nitrate and ammonia levels low.
The filter plate and substrate provide the base that nitrifying bacteria
colonize on. (Substrate is the gravel, crushed coral and sand that
you put in the bottom of your tank.)
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Many experts believe that Undergravel filters do the best job of
maintaining a healthy biological environment in freshwater
aquariums. Their main drawback is that it's a pain to clean them.
You have to clean them every year (because of the buildup of debris)
both above and below the filter plate. So you have to completely
remove the filter plate from the aquarium to clean it.
Filtration systems are usually rated by the number of gallons of water
filtered per hour. When choosing a filtration system for your tank,
make sure that it's large enough to do the job. Other than that, it's a
matter of choice.
Chapter 3: Buying Your Betta Fish and Bringing Him
Home
Now that you've got everything ready,
it's time to go out and choose your
new Betta fish.
You basically have two choices when
it comes to buying a Betta fish -
either a pet store or a professional
Betta fish breeder.
Timely Tip: When you're rinsing
the filter, DON'T rinse it in tap
water! Why? Because you'll be
etting rid of the good bacterium
that the biological filter process
has worked so hard to create inyour aquarium.. Since the good
bacterium is growing on the
sponge, just carefully rinse it in
water from the aquarium. (Each
time you do a water change, just
save some in a covered jar for the
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Making that decision is going to be a personal choice, and will be
based on a number of factors. For example:
Is this your first Betta fish?
Will the Betta be a pet for children?
Do you plan on breeding your Betta?
Will you enter your Betta fish in shows?
Will the Betta be put into a tank with other fish?
If the answer to questions one, two and five is yes, then you might
want to start by getting your first Betta fish from a pet store.
If on the other hand, your answer to questions three and four is yes,
then you'll want to find a professional breeder.
Choosing the right Betta for you is going to be a subjective matter,
and will be based on some of the questions above plus others. And it
will be harder to choose if you pick your Betta from a breeder and
can't see it in person. If you are choosing your Betta fish from a pet
store, spend a little time observing them. See if there is a fish which
exhibits personality traits you like, or one that seems lively and aware
of his surroundings.
The best advice in that case is simply to choose a Betta whose colors
and tail shape you like.
No matter where you buy your Betta from, here are some tips that will
help you choose the best Betta fish for you:
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Buying Your New Betta Fish from a Pet Store
Buying a Betta fish isn't like choosing a puppy or a kitten based on
how cute and fluffy it is, or how it seems to beg to be taken home with
you. In fact, before you even start looking in the Betta tank, you need
to check out the rest of the pet shop very carefully.
If the pet store you've chosen raises any of the following red flags,
then don't buy a fish from them - even if the Bettas found appear
healthy.
Timely Tip: Never buy a fish that's just
rrived at the pet store. Not only will it be
gitated and stressed out from the trip,
ut any illnesses or diseases it might haveon't show up right away!
Here's what you're looking for:
The overall cleanliness of the store itself
The general knowledge and attitude of the employees
The cleanliness of all the fish tanks
The cleanliness of the water
The general condition of all the animals, especially the fish
The condition of the fish
Are they losing their scales?
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Timely Tip: Ask the store what their
uarantee for your fish is. Reputablestores will offer a refund or replacement if
your fish should get sick or die within a
specified period of time. If your store
doesn't offer a guarantee, then that's a red
lag and you should look somewhere else
to buy your new Betta!)
Do they have "fur" or
other strange
substances on their
bodies?
Are any of them
suffering from bulging
or displaced eyes?
Do their tails have cuts
or older wounds?
If the store passes muster, then it's time to look at their Betta fish.
Many pet stores keep their Bettas in small containers, both to keep
them isolated so they don't fight with other fish, and to make it easier
to transport them. So don't expect the Betta fish to jump for joy or
wag their tails when they see you. But check for the following:Are their colors bright? (Dull colors indicate stress, agitation or
illness)
Are they alert?
Are they clean and free from obvious injuries to their scales,
tales and eyes?
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Taking Your Fish Home from the Pet Store
Although it's certainly easier on your fish for you to take him home
yourself, rather than having him shipped, there are still certain
precautions you need to take to ensure his safe arrival and reducing
the amount of stress he'll experience during the ride.
One of the main things to remember is to try to keep from jostling him
as much as possible. Following these simple steps will go a long way
in keeping your fish safe:
Don't try to bring him home in a large container filled with a lot
of water - in fact, in this case, air is the most important
consideration. Try to give your Betta about three times more air
than water.
Bring a small cooler with you - one for holding a six pack of
coke is perfect.
Start by packing the bottom of the cooler with several layers of
newspaper. (Two or three of the free newspapers with the
classified ads is perfect). This is to make sure that you're
putting your Betta on a flat surface.
Buy a Styrofoam block that you cut at home to fit the cooler -
and take a knife with you, so you can quickly make the final
adjustments before putting your fish inside. (If you don't want
to use Styrofoam, you can use wadded up newspaper to
surround and protect your fish, but make sure that it provides
enough support!) Once you know how big the container your
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fish will be in is, cut the top of the Styrofoam block to cover
about of it. Place it inside the cooler.
Put the cooler on the floor or your vehicle, or strap it into the
back seat of your car, using the seat belt. (Don't put it in the
trunk, especially if it's summer). Secure it again with a small
bungee cord, to keep it from moving around if you go over any
bumps or when you go around corners.
Drive slowly and carefully and go straight home. (This isn't the
time to stop and pick up a gallon of milk from the store). Pay
attention to bumps, railroad track and sharp corners.
Buying Your Betta from a Breeder
One of the best places to find a reputable breeder - and also to get
more information about Betta fish, is the International Betta
Congress. You can find them on the Internet at:
http://www.ibcbettas.com
If at all possible, find a breeder in your area, and go and pick out -
and bring home - your fish yourself.
If that's not possible, and you've decided to buy your Betta fish from a
breeder, here are some tips to make sure you choose the best
possible fish for you:
Check out the breeder's Website. You should be able to find
pictures and descriptions of the Betta fish they have for sale.
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Take your time and note down specifics about the fish you're
most interested in.
After narrowing down your search, contact the breeder, either
by email or telephone. Ask any questions you have about the
fish, its personality, care and feeding, etc.
The Journey from the Breeder to You:
Once you've chosen your fish, and made your payment, find out from
the breeder how the fish will be shipped.
Special Note: If you're buying a fish in the spring or winter, or any
time the temperature will be going lower than 65, make sure the
breeder is including heat packs.
To insure the safe arrival of your fish, the breeder should be taking
the following precautions when packing and shipping your Betta fish:
A professional shipping container that's large enough for the
number of fish you've purchased
Styrofoam blocks or peanuts for protecting the container and
fish during shipping
Each fish should be placed inside its own container or plastic
bag. (If plastic bags are used, it should be double or triple-
bagged, to help protect your fish if one of the bags breaks).
The bag should not be full of water - in fact, special canned
oxygen should have been added to the bag before it was
sealed, to create an air bubble for your Betta fish to breathe
during transport.
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Your Betta fish should be shipped "overnight" whether you're
using FedEx, UPS, or the Postal Service.
The bag should be packed inside a specially cut foam block, or
other protective material with Styrofoam peanuts on the bottom
of the shipping container and on all sides.
The shipping container should be marked "Live Fish - Handle
with Care"
If the breeder doesn't follow these basic steps, ask what their method
for transporting is, and make sure that you're comfortable with it. If
not, you have the choice of asking the breeder to ship your Betta fish
differently, or finding a different breeder. By the way, not all breeders
offer a guarantee if your fish doesn't arrive alive. So if your fish is
traveling a long distance, or the weather conditions are extreme, you
might want wait or find a breeder closer to you.
Chapter 4 - The Care and Feeding of Your Betta Fish
Introducing Your Betta Fish into his New Home:
So, you found your new pet, and brought him home. But wait! Don't
just throw him into the tank, toss him some food and expect him to
adapt!
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As has been mentioned before, Bettas can suffer from stress, and
introducing your Betta fish into his new home is something that you
should do with some care and consideration. (After all, he doesn't
know what's going on, and unless you speak fish, you can't explain
that he's about to become king of a brand new castle!)
Here's how to give your Betta the keys to his new home, and give him
a chance to explore the neighborhood.
If your Betta is the Only Fish in the Aquarium:
Put your Betta fish - in the original bag or container he arrived
in - inside the tank. Let him float there for at least 15 minutes
inside that container. This gives equalizes the water
temperature (and gives your Betta a chance to get used to the
temperature in the tank), and also gives him a chance to relax
and look around.
To avoid starting your Betta out in dirty water, when you put
your Betta into his new tank, use a net or tip him in gently - but
don't add the water he's been swimming in into the tank.
Let your Betta fish swim around and explore for several hours
before feeding him. It won't hurt him, and it will give him a
chance to feel settled in.
How and When to Add More Fish to the Tank:
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According to Betta fish experts, the safe maximum number of fish in
your aquarium is to plan one inch of adult fish for every gallon of
water in the tank. (This means that if your Betta is going into a one
gallon container, then it should be the only fish.) And if you're buying
fish that have not reached adult size, you need to make your
calculations based on how big they'll get, not how big they are when
you get them.
To start adding more fish to the tank, start with two strong, healthy
fish for every ten gallons of water. You need to go through the first
water stabilization process (six to eight weeks) before adding any
more. After the water has had a chance to stabilize, and your
readings show continued low levels of nitrites and ammonia, you can
begin adding on or two fish a week until you've reached the maximum
population level for your tank size, (or the total number of fish youwant to keep.)
By introducing the fish in this way, it allows the good bacteria in your
tank to adjust to the additional population before adding more. If your
ammonia and nitrite levels begin to rise, make a 25% water change,
and monitor the levels carefully for the next two or three days. Don't
add any more fish until the levels have gone back down.
Friends of Betta Fish - How to Choose Other Fish to
Add to Your Aquarium
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Contrary to what you may think, your Betta fish is not a solitary
creature, and actually enjoys the company of other fish. However
there are some fish that you should never put into a tank with your
Betta - either because they are natural enemies, or because they'll
be attracted to your Betta fish's long flowing fins and tail, and try to
"take a bite" every now and then!
Here are some fish that DON'T belong in the tank with your Betta
fish:
Gouramis
Platy
Variatus
Any species that has long fins
Guppies
Fish that make good companions for Betta fish include:
Angelfish
Swordfish
Cory
Catfish
Some other tips to assure a happy, healthy mixed fish population:Make sure that you don't put any cold water fish into the tank
with your Betta - because somebody is going to end up getting
sick (goldfish for example, are cold water fish, and can't survive
in water that's too hot. But if you put a Betta fish into water
that's too cold, he will become listless, won't eat and may die.
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Choose slow-moving fish. Some fish swim around very fast,
and can break your Betta fish's bubble nest, not to mention
make him very nervous and stressed out.
Snails are good friends in a fish tank because they eat the
debris (leftover food) and other organic matter. (But if you
suddenly have too many snails, it means that you're not
keeping the tank clean enough, and there is too much leftover
food. Snails are asexual, and it only takes one to reproduce).
When introducing a new fish to the tank, make sure you monitor
the behavior of the rest of the fish for a couple of hours, and if
anyone is getting too aggressive, remove it at once.
A lot of the happy cohabitation is going to depend on your Betta
fish's personality and habits. Just like people, Bettas have their
own unique likes and dislikes, and your Betta fish will be no
exception. Pay attention to his nonverbal clues and he'll let youknow what he likes and what (or who) he doesn't.
Socialization Issues - Fighting, Being with Other
Bettas, Livin with Other Breeds of Fish
Why Betta Fish Fight Each Other
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Betta fish fight to protect their territory, to ensure that they have
enough food, and also because they want to be "king of the hill" when
it comes time for them to breed. These are genetic traits, and you
won't be able to train your fish not to fight.
When you have two male Betta fish in the tank, they will "flare" at
each other - (this means they puff up, flaring out their fins and gill
covers, to make themselves look bigger and more threatening.)
Often one fish will admit defeat and swim away, leaving the other
male victorious.
When people began keeping and fighting Betta fish, aggression was
bred into them, but over the last few years, this trait has begun to be
bred out of them.
Most of the time male Bettas will only attack other males. However
it's not totally unheard of for a male Betta fish to attack a new female
or one that he feels threatened by, so it's always a good idea to keep
an eye on your Betta fish when you first introduce another fish into
the tank, or if you're putting your Betta in with other fish.
Sometimes more aggressive Betta fish will nip or bite the other fish.
So if you see this happening, remove the aggressive one right away
to avoid injuries.
How to Keep Your Betta Fish from Fighting:
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There really is only one way - don't put two male Bettas in the same
tank. If you only have one tank and two male Bettas, you have a
couple of choices - the first is to use a "fish condo".
Fish Condos: These are clear plastic containers with air holes that let
the tank water flow through them. Depending on the size of your
tank, you may be able to fit in a two, three or four space condo. Each
Betta fish has his own space, and you can put up visual barriers such
as plants or java moss so that he can't see the other Betta.
You can also put a single mesh divider in one section of your tank
that will keep your male Betta fish separated from each other.
Flaring and Showing Off
If you're going to "show" your Betta fish, one of the things the judges
want to see is your Betta flaring.
In addition to flaring at other male Bettas, your Betta may flare when
he's introduced to a new Betta female - a kind of mating dance.
(Again, make sure that he doesn't get too aggressive!) Some male
Bettas will even flare if they catch sight of their own reflections in a
mirror!
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Safety Tip: Don't show your new Betta his reflection or
other male Betta fish right away. Remember, he'll be
stressed out enough from the journey, and needs time to
et used to his new home and new surroundings.
Whenever possible give him a week or so in the tank
alone, to really give him time to get comfortable and
relaxed. Sometimes when Bettas get nervous they'll bite
their own tails - this is a sign of extreme stress, and
Some Betta experts agree that flaring or showing off for female
Bettas is a normal and healthy exercise for your male Betta fish.
They insist that it keeps them alert and interested in what's going on
in their world.
If you only have one Betta fish, you can put a small mirror down in the
tank once in a while. Chances are he will think he's seeing another
male and will flare up, to "warn off" the intruder. Don't do it too often
or for too long, or you could cause your Betta to become stressed.
If you have two male Betta fish in the same tank that are separated
by mesh, here's a trick that is used by Betta Breeders to induce
flaring: About 30 minutes before it's time to feed your Bettas, just
remove the moss or plants and let them naturally discover that they're
not alone - they'll begin flaring as soon as they see each other.
When it's feeding time, go ahead and feed them. When they're done
eating, put the moss or plants back in place.
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Female Betta Fish - Divas in Disguise
Male Betta fish aren't the only ones that can be aggressive. Yourfemale Bettas have a pecking order all their own as well. (Think of a
harem in the days of the Arabian Nights stories) When kept in the
same tank, female Betta fish will establish a social order from the
most dominant to the least. So if you're introducing a new female into
an established tank, keep an eye on the ladies to make sure that no
one is getting pushed around or bullied.
Creating a Calm and Soothing Environment
If your fish is acting agitated or disturbed, or exhibiting signs of stress,
such as biting himself, then it's time to create a calm and soothing
environment. Here are some tips to help:
If your new Betta is very stressed out, add one square inch ofdried Indian Almond leaves (also known as "wild Almond
leaves" or "Ketapang") to the tank water, and let it seep over
night. It will turn the water brown (like tea), but according to a
Betta expert at "tothefish.com", your Betta fish will love it! The
leaves contain organic acids tannins and humic, and lowers the
pH of the water, absorbs harmful chemicals and may inhibit
harmful forms of bacteria. In addition to producing water very
much like that of the natural environment of Betta fish, it also
has healing properties, and has been known to help fish when
they are pale and floating on the bottom of the tank, or refusing
to eat or after injuries. Some Betta breeders also use it to help
condition the bodies of small fry.
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If your Betta seems agitated for no apparent reason, and you've
got him in a round tank, try one that's rectangular shaped.
Some fish may find the distorted reflections confusing.
Try adding a female to the tank. For many male Betta fish,
once they've accepted the female, having her around has a
calming effect.
Put him in a bigger tank. If your Betta fish is in a small tank, it
may be that he needs more room.
Turn on soft music, your television or even put try a lava lamp
or fiber optic lamp near the tank for a short time. (Pay close
attention to your Betta's behavior though - this calms some
Betta fish, while it agitates others.)
Clean his tank. It may be that the dirty water is making him sick
or agitated.
Feeding Your Betta Fish
The first thing you need to know is that Bettas are basically meat
eaters.
The second thing is that they love live food - mosquito larvae, live
blood worms and brine shrimp. The problem is that live food is prone
to carry bacteria and parasites (and let's face it - not really an
attractive idea for the owners to have to touch either!)
There is a huge variety of Betta fish food on the market - everything
from flakes to live food. So how do you choose?
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Here's what NOT to feed your Betta:
Fish flakes (your Betta's mouth isn't cut out for this type of food,
and you'll probably find he nibbles and tastes and then just
swims away).
Live food (too many parasites or bacteria that can harm your
fish)
Food blocks (although they are advertised as being a good way
to feed your fish while you're on vacation, in reality they pollute
the water and your fish won't like them).
Too much of one kind of fish food (just like us, Betta fish like -
and need - variety).
The best food for your Betta is going to be freeze-dried brine shrimp.
Not only is it safe from bacterium and parasites, but once it hits the
water, it will quickly thaw, and tastes like the live variety to your Betta
fish.
As a special treat, occasionally offer freeze-dried bloodworms.
For more information and ideas about the perfect food choices for
your Betta fish, check with your vet, local pet store or Betta breeder.
Don't "Supersize Me" Please! (How Much to Feed
Your Betta Fish)
Remember, your Betta has a very small stomach, and he really
doesn't need much food. A good rule of thumb to follow is to feed
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your Betta fish as much food as he or she can eat in 2 or 3 minutes.
And make sure to remove any floating food pieces after 5 minutes,
because if left in the tank, it will just float down to the bottom and start
to decay, which causes dirty water and illnesses.
How Often To Feed Your Betta
Only feed adult Betta fish once a day. According to leading Betta
experts, here are a few other tips you should follow to keep your
Betta healthy and happy:
Feed your Betta fish about an hour before or after sunset. This
will simulate his natural environment, because that's when live
bugs often come out and land in the water.
Choose a set day of each week not to feed your Betta at all.
This will help to make sure that his digestive tract doesn't get
overloaded, and will help to keep him healthy and strong.
Check with your vet, pet store or Betta breeder for specific
information about the best brand names of food and types and
varieties to feed him.
Everything You Need to Know About Changing the
Water in the Tank
Breeders and veterinarians agree that in the majority of cases, the
leading causes of death for Betta fish can be linked back to a dirty
tank.
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When you change the water in the tank weekly, you're reducing the
ammonia and nitrites that will continually be produced in the tank,
while the good bacterium continues to multiply and grow.
By checking the levels once or twice a week (or if the water becomes
cloudy once you've past the first stage of bacterial growth), you'll be
able to monitor when the ammonia and nitrite levels get too high, and
can add an extra water changing if necessary. (Remember too that
high levels of ammonia and nitrites cause your Betta fish to
experience stress and over time, this can kill him).
Use a good water conditioner when you're replacing the water, and
remember to make sure that the water you add is the same
temperature as the water still in the tank, to avoid putting your fish
into shock. Carefully monitoring of the water every few days will helpyou to ensure that your fish stay healthy and disease free.
Therefore it's vitally important that you build some time into your
schedule to clean your Betta's tank once every week.
If you follow these simple steps, and put the cleaning into your
schedule, you'll find it's not at all difficult.
Leave your fish in the tank whenever possible during cleanings
- it causes them less stress or shock from too drastic a change
in water temperatures.
Use a siphon to clean out any gunk from under the gravel,
especially if you're using an under gravel filter. (Remember to
gently clean the filter using water from the fish tank).
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Never use soaps, cleaning products or chemicals to clean the
tank - they can be harmful or even deadly to your Betta fish.
Use an algae scrapper or scrubby (that's only used for your fish
tank) to clean of any accumulated algae or other debris that's
clinging to the sides of your tank.
Use either a siphon hose or a scoop (again that's only used for
your fish tank) to remove the correct amount of water from the
tank.
If you've got algae growing on plants or other decorations,
clean them with warm water, or water saved from the fish tank,
and use a scrubby, but no soap or detergents.
Replace the gravel and any decorations that were removed.
Trim back any plants and take out dead leaves.
Fill the tank back up with treated water that is the same
temperature.
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Chapter 5: Love is in the Air - Breeding Your Bettas
Many people who start off with one Betta fish at first decide to buy
another one later on. And then after that, they decide to try breeding
their Bettas.
This isn't as easy as it sounds, especially for the beginner. In fact,
unless you're serious about breeding, and are ready to take on the
additional responsibility, time and cost involved, my suggestion would
be for you not to do it.
But if you do decide to try breeding your Betta fish, here are some
simple tips that will help you to get started, and increase your
chances of success:Don't buy Betta fish that you intend to breed from a pet store.
Chances are the fish will be too old, not healthy enough or from
impure strains. All of these factors mean that your chances of
success will be slim to none.
Buy your Betta fish from a reputable Breeder, and ask for their
help in choosing the right breeding pair. (Most breeder experts
agree that the best pair will be brother and sister, and come
from the same group of fry.)
Buy two pairs each of male and female Betta fish. That way if
one pair doesn't like each other, or there are other problems,
you've got a back-up.
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Buy young Betta fish for Breeders. Don't look for the flowing
fins and bright colors - they're often too old for breeding.
Instead, look for younger fish - ideally between 8 and 12
months old.
Breed the same strain together - mixing breeds often yields
poor results, and there are some pairs that are totally
incompatible to breed together. If you are going to mix strains,
talk to an experienced breeder first for his or her
recommendations about colors, fin and tail shapes, etc.
Choose fish that have the colors you're looking for. And don't
breed a male that's aggressive - because that's a genetic trait
that is passed down.
Make sure the female isn't larger than the male. During
breeding, the male wraps his body around the female to fertilize
the eggs, and if she's bigger than he is, it will be physicallyimpossible.
Setting Up a Breeding Tank
Just like when you set up your first fish tank, you have to set up a
separate tank for breeding. Choose a suitable 10 gallon (37.86 liters)
tank, and follow these steps - do this about two weeks before you're
going to start breeding:
Prepare the water (it's the same procedure as you used for
your regular aquarium)
Install the heater (make sure to get it in the right position and let
it sit in the water for a half hour before turning it on, to avoid
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just don't want to deal with live food, then it's okay to use the freeze-
dried. Follow the same feeding procedure - hand feed your fish, and
only give them as much as they can eat in two minutes. After that,
remove all excess food with a turkey baster.
Introducing Your Betta Fish into the Breeding Tank
Start by introducing the male into the tank. Put him into a cup and
float it in the new tank for about a half hour, to let him adjust to the
new water temperature. After half an hour, add some of the tank
water to the cup, and wait for another 20 minutes to a half hour.
Then release him into the tank. Let him look around and check thingsout for while. After a couple of hours, put the female into a smaller
tank and set it next to the breeding tank so the two can get a look at
each other.
If he starts flaring and she starts showing vertical stripes, it means
they're interested in each other! He should start building a bubble
nest - but this could take anywhere from a few days to a week or
more, so you're going to have to be patient.
If after an hour or so they're not showing any interest in each other, or
worse, the female is flaring at the male - which is her way of saying
"Get Lost!" then it's time to try the second female.
Introducing the Female Betta into the Tank
If they've shown that they're interested in each other, then it's time tointroduce the female into the tank.
Make sure the temperature of the water is around 82 F. Remove all
but about 5 inches of water in the tank. (This simulates the dry
season in your fish's natural environment, which is their normal
mating time.) You may have to adjust the filter so that it's still
working properly now that there is less water in the tank.
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Start by floating the female in a cup, and letting her get used to thetemperature of the water. Follow the same steps that you did when
you introduced the male into the new tank - but when you're ready toput your female into the water, insert the glass tube from a hurricane
lamp, placing the biggest end down into the water, with the narrowerend extending up out of the water. Carefully put the female into the
tube, and let her and the male get a closer look at each other. If
they're still acting interested, after half an hour, release lift the glass
tube out of the tank, and let her begin to swim around.
You need to monitor their behavior for the next couple of hours -
make sure that the male isn't getting too aggressive, and that he's not
attacking her to the point of really hurting her.
Timely Tip: Some aggression during this period is normal
- after all, you want them to be excited to be together, and
the male should be flexing his fishy muscles and showing
off for her. He'll probably be swimming around her in
circles, and maybe rubbing against her or pushing her.
That's all normal! What you don't want is for them to be
in opposite corners of the tank ignoring each other, or
fighting enough that the neighbors would call the policeabout a domestic dispute!
What Happens During Spawning
As strange as it seems, one of the signs that the male Betta is readyto spawn is when he begins biting the female. She will probably react
by swimming away and hiding, but will venture out from time to time,
and then hide again. At some point however, she will come out from
hiding, swimming with her head pointed down submissively toward
the male.
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At this point, he will become almost frenzied - probably swimming in
circles around her, building his bubble nest, and flaring like crazy!
They will begin swimming together, probably swimming around eachother, and it may look as if they're caressing each other, or it may
look as if they're still fighting. If it gets rough, don't separate them,
but keep a close eye on them - some males will actually kill their
mates by being too rough.
When they find the right angle and their bodies fit together perfectly,
the male will wrap around her and squeeze tightly and lock in place
for a few seconds - they may even sink to the bottom of the tankduring this "embrace."
When he lets her go, she'll be temporarily paralyzed, and he'll most
likely swim to the bottom of the tank to see if she's released any
eggs. If not, they'll repeat the process as many times as it takes until
she does.
As soon as she releases her eggs, he will fertilize them. The eggs
will sink to the bottom of the tank, and he'll begin the process ofswimming down, gathering them up in his mouth, and carrying them
up and attaching them gently to the bubble nest. Since there could
be as many as 500 fertilized eggs, this is a lot of work - back and
forth, up and down. But he'll do it quickly and almost mechanically.
He may be so involved in taking care of the eggs that he'll even
refuse to eat for the next couple of days. Don't worry - he'll start
eating again when his job is done.
While he's doing this, the female will swim away and may hide again.
At this point, it's a good idea to remove her from the tank to makesure that she doesn't start eating the eggs. (Also, if she swims too
near the bubble nest, he may kill her.)
Just make sure that you don't disturb the bubble nest when you take
her out.
After you've taken her out, cover the top of the tank either with plastic
wrap or a lid, so that there is no cool air moving over the bubble nest.
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You want a high level of humidity in the tank while the fry are growingtoo, as this helps the development of their labyrinth. If you don't do
this - most of your fry will drown, so it's very important!
Make sure that you're changing the water in the tank every other daystarting about 24 hours after the fry are born - but be very careful that
they don't get caught up in the siphon! You'll want to test the water
every day, and monitor the water temperature carefully.
Over the next two days, you'll see the male Betta periodically take theeggs into his mouth, to clean them. After a couple of days, the
chemicals in his mouth change, and will dissolve the outer layer ofthe egg shell so that the fry are released.
About thirty-six hours after spawning, you should begin to notice little
black dots that resemble commas on a typewritten page. They will
begin to fall out of the bubble nest and sink to the bottom of the tank.
The male Betta will make several trips to the bottom of the tank to
patiently retrieve them, and put them back inside the bubble nest.
Shortly after that, the fry will begin swimming in a horizontal position
on their own. When that starts happening, you can remove the male
Betta from the tank. (If he starts eating the fry, you can remove him
earlier.)
When you remove him, the fry will begin falling again to the bottom of
the tank - don't worry, they will be fine until it's time to start feeding
them.
Feeding the Fry
In the beginning, the fry will live off the egg sack, and you don't have
to do anything. When they start swimming on their own, you'll need
to begin feeding them with a product called "microfood" or "Infusoria"
or other liquid food that you can buy from your local pet store. They'll
need to be fed 4 or 5 times a day.
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After about two weeks, you'll need to begin feeding them live babybrine shrimp or microworms. Once they are about 1 inch (2.54
centimeters) long, you can begin feeding them ground up adult Bettafood - the freeze dried is fine. Reduce the number of feedings per
day to two or three. Remove all the food they don't eat after fiveminutes, to help keep the water clean.
Characteristics of Your New "Small Fry"
Your fry will be very small when born, and they don't grow rapidly. In
fact, it will take about 7 months before you notice that they begin
really growing or gaining colors.
Your fry aren't going to be very active during this stage of their
development either. Most of the time, they'll probably sit on the
bottom of the tank and wait for you to feed them.
But as they grow, keep an eye on them and watch for aggressive
behavior from some of the males. If they start getting too aggressive
with the other fry, then it's time to remove them from the breeding
tank and put them into their own containers. Females can usually bekept together longer, but again, watch for aggression and be
prepared to remove aggressive females too.
If Your First Breeding Attempt Fails
First of all, don't get discouraged. Successful breeding depends onso many different factors, and you won't have control over many of
them. If your first attempt doesn't work out, try again in a couple ofweeks, using a different pair.
One good practice when you're just getting started is to take lots of
notes - about the time of day, the weather, the temperature, the
temperature in the tank, the actions and reactions of the fish, etc.
That way, when you're talking to a breeder about what happened,
you won't have to try and rely on memory alone. And it may be the
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breeder may be able to give you some valuable insight about what todo - or not to do - the next time you try to breed your Betta fish.
Chapter 6: Common Health Problems and
Treatments for Your Betta Fish
As was mentioned earlier in this book, most Betta illnesses can be
traced back to one thing - dirty water in the aquarium. However,there are a couple of other problems as well - that if you pay
attention to them, you can prevent illness - which is a lot easier than
trying to treat it after the fact.
Before handling anything in the tank or your Betta fish, wash your
hands thoroughly - (and use a natural soap, with no preservatives oradditives or perfumes.)
Handling Your Fish
Unless it's absolutely necessary, NEVER pick your fish up with
your hands - squeezing your fish even a little bit can cause
internal injuries
Don't touch your fish or pet it, as you'll damage the slime coat
which is nature's way of protecting it from illness and disease
If you must pick up your fish by hand (use a net whenever
possible), try to keep it in the palm of your hand only, and don't
try holding it between your fingers. If possible, cup your hand
and let it float in a little aquarium water, rather than resting
directly on your palm
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Water Precautions
Follow a regular schedule for cleaning the tank and do partialwater changes once a week
Use the right additives to the water, and follow mixing directions
on the package carefully
Monitor and maintain the proper water temperature and don't
let it vary more than one or two degrees
Feeding Precautions
Feed your Betta on a regular schedule
Don't over-feed your Betta fish and remove leftover food right
away
Give your Betta fish the proper food - no flakes, or blocks and if
you're using live food make sure you clean it first
If your fish does get sick or injured, you can contact your Betta
breeder, your local pet store (if they have a fish expert on staff) or
your local vet, to get advice and information.
But in the meantime, check out the chart on the next page forinformation and treatment advice about some of the most common
illnesses, and injury problems.
Remember though - this information should not be substituted for
sound medical advice, and neither the author or publisher of this book
take any responsibility for the consequences if your fish should get
worse, or die.
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Common Illnesses, Ailments, Injuries and How to
Treat Them
Symptoms
Fish die suddenlyfor no
apparent reason
Sudden death, presence of
worms noted hanging from
anus, excessive or rapid
weight loss, lethargic
Analysis of Problem
Possible poisoning
Endoparasites
Bacterial or Parasitical
Infection
Fish stay near the bottom of
tank
Fish stay near the top of the
tank
Fish are sluggish and refuse to
eat or eat less than normal
reatment
Post-mortem exam necessary
for proper diagnosis
Usuallycaused byeating live
rown worms. Treat with
parasitical product such as
Metrozol
est water for chlorine or
other harmful chemicals
Examine fish and treat with
proper medicine
Do a 100% water change with
properlytreated, aged water
lean tank and test storage
ontainers for chemical
residue
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Fish lose their colorOxygen levels too low
Fish rub against plants,
ornaments or sides of tank &
mayshow a "silver flash" on
underbelly
Possible skin irritation or
allergy
heck O2 Levels in everya.m.
If consistentlylow, install anair pump
est water for ammonia,
nitrite & pH levels.
Use additives and do a water
hange
Examine fish for parasites
(such as Trichodina, flukes
and white-spot
reat as recommended
Fish has small white spots that Bacterial infection called
look like salt on skin and fins, "Ichtyophthirius" or "Ich" or
mayalso have mucus on skin; "Ick"
rubs against sides of tank and
ornaments, maybe listless and
lie on bottom of tank
Add 1 teaspoon of pure rock
salt (available at grocery store)
for everygallon of water
Increase water temperature in
tank to between 81 - 83
uring treatment
If salt treatment is not
ffective, purchase "ick"
treatment medication at pet
store and follow directions
Betta covered with a thin gold
or rust colored film, loses its
color, rubs against sides of
tank and ornaments, loses
appetite
Betta has white colored
patches on skin that look like
cotton, or skin is inflamed or
patches of eroding skin
Infectious parasite called
"Velvet".
Quarantine infected fish
Follow same treatment for Ich
Fish seem to be experiencing
difficultybreathing
Fungal Infections - either
Saprolegenia or Columnaris
(also called cotton mouth
fungus)
Low O2, or dissolved 02 in
water
Filter clogged or dirty
reat with Methylene Blue an
ffective anti-fungal treatment
available at local pet store or if
that doesn't work, useaquarium tetracycline
heck 02 levels in a.m. - if
onsistentlylow, buyan air
pump
lean filter and make sure it's
working properly
High chemical levels in tank
water
est water & adjust as needed
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O2 in water are within normal Quarantine fish & give highlevels - possible viral
infection
protein diet; clean tank daily,
add teaspoon aquarium saltper gallon of tank water
Fish stays on bottom of tank,
or buries self in water,
surfaces onlyto breathe
Betta Fish refuses to eat
Milky gray patches on skin
Dirtywater
Possible parasites on fish
Possible bacterial infection
lean tank and do 100% water
hange
Do a water change
Add teaspoon of aquarium
salt per gallon of tank water
heck water for ammonia,
nitrite and pH levels. Adjust as
needed.
reat water with Methylene
lue
Fish seems unusually agitated High chemical levels in water Check nitrite, ammonia and
or hides all the time
Shredded or Torn fins
Fins appear to be witheringaway
High levels of organic debris
in tank
Potential Bacterial infection
Possible Fin Rot
Betta appears to be swollen or Parasitic Cysts
patches of skin are swollen
pH levels. Adjust as needed.
Do a water change. Clean and
heck filter
reat with Methylene Blue
reat with Neosulfex for up to1 month until healed
hange water and treat with
aquarium salt
Swelling accompanied by
raised scales
Internal Tumors, unusual
Damage caused byother fish
in tank or tank ornaments
Bacterial infection reat tank with Methylene
lue
growths or protrusions on skin Genetic Cancers, lymphocytes No treatment available. Do notor fins, large & smooth
growths on skin, or growths
resembling cauliflower, may
be red and white
Tumors uyadditional fish from that
line, and do not breed that line
carp pox, warts (papillomas), Some maydisappear on their
own over time
CloudyEyes (Corneal
Opacity)
Damage Caused by Other fish Monitor behavior of other fish,
or ornaments in tank
Poor Diet
remove and replace dangerous
tank ornaments
Add more protein to diet
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DirtyWater
White coating on eye
Bacterial Infection
Possible fungus infection
One or both eyes bulge
outwards, loss of appetite,
lethargic or listless
Bacterial infection called
Popeye - caused bydirty
water
Spinal Deformities Electrical shock
Improper use of medical
treatments
Poor nutrition
Presence oftoxins in water
Genetic Conditions
Fish swims in unusual manner, Swim-bladder infection
mayfloat on back when not
swimming, appears dizzyor
off-balance
caused byover eating
Scales develop raised prickly
appearance resembling pine
cones, abdomen swells, fish
dies suddenly
Swim-bladder bacterial or
viral infection or other organ
disease
Kidneydisease or intestinal
blockageDropsy
heck chemical levels, change
water
Apply anti-bacterial treatment
reat water with Methylene
lue or anti-fungal medication
reat with antibiotic called
Ampicilex; Change water
twice as often during
treatment; maintain regular
water changes and tank
leaning
heck all electrical appliancesin tank
Follow all directions on
packages carefully
heck diet and provide more
protein
est water, adjust as
necessary, do a water change
o treatment available. Do notuyfrom that strain again and
o not breed that strain
ut back on amount of food,
ut back on brine shrimp and
loodworms
Quarantine fish and apply
Methylene Blue to water
Fatal, no treatment available
Highlycontagious, quarantine
sick fish immediately. Add 1
teaspoon of salt per gallon of
water. Applyaquarium
etracycline. Slight chance of
survival, but usuallyfatal