Post on 09-Dec-2018
SU
NJI
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2006.9.1
RoundProtection- SUNSIL TZin50AS- UV capsule 60
SUNJIN CHEMICAL R&D CENTER
Cosmetic Raw Material Presentation
SUNJINSeptember 2006
Overview: High SPF Trend
Overview• Makeup claiming varying SPF levels is sold all over the
world
• It has long been desirable however, particularly in Asia, to have foundation with a high SPF desirable
• However, typically foundations come in the form of Pressed powders, which are difficult make cosmetically acceptable with a high SPF
• The levels of ultrafine titanium dioxide required for high SPF values result in a product that is, among others, too dry
• Adding organic sunscreen agents to pressed powder compositions creates a product exhibiting a cosmetically undesirable glaze
• Moreover it’s much more difficult to make a high UVA protection makeup than a high SPF because of limited availability of organic UV filters to make a high PA, because inorganic UV filters such as TiO2 or Zinc Oxide are required to use, which greatly enhances chalkiness, grittiness of the makeup
How to achieve make up with High SPF & High PA while not hurting sensory feeling?
ActivesTiO2ZnOOMCBEMTBEMT: Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Tinosorb S
A Korean pressed powder With SPF 32 & PA++
Estee Lauder Cyber WhiteSilky Bright Powder Foundation SPF 20/PA++
SUNJINSeptember 2006
RoundProtection: UV capsule, TZin50AS,
Semi-Spherical TiO2: UV capsule
TiO2, ZnO & Silica composite: TZin50AS
FillerTalcSericite/MicaBaSO4…
SensorialSilica
PMMAUrethaneNylon12
…
FunctionalUV protectVisual effectAbsorptionDelivery
ColorWhite pigmentColor pigment
PearlescentGlitters
Binder/Media
SUNJINSeptember 2006
SUNSIL-TZin50AS, triple composite of Silica, TiO2 and ZnO
SUNSIL TZin50AS; Hydrophobic alkyl silane surface treated
External SiO2 coating
TiO2SiO2 bead
ZnO
AS coating
CompositionSiO2: 45-67%TiO2: 16-25%ZnO: 17-24 %Alkyl Silane: 6.0 Max.
SPF
Inorganic UV-filter (11.6%) Avg. SPF/
g
Sunclear-T40 9.4 0.8
Sunclear-Z50 5.8 0.5
Sunsil-ZnO-AS 8.9 0.8
SUNZNO-NAS 16.0 1.4
Zinc Oxide(T) 12.9 1.1
Zinc Oxide(B) 10.0 0.9
Sunsil-TZin50-AS 3.2 0.3
Sunsil-Tin40 2.5 0.2
Sunsil-Tin50 3.6 0.3
UV-capsule 60 16.1 1.4
Nano TiO2(T) 26.9 2.3
Organic(8.7%)
Parsol 1789 7.5 0.9
Parsol MCX 11.3 1.3
Benzophenone-3 9.4 1.1
Tinsorb-M 5.6 0.6
Unit SPF is lower than UV capsule
But sensorial feeling is much better
SUNJINSeptember 2006
UV capsule 60
Silica sol coating
Alkyl Silane surface treatment
20 nm TiO2
TiO2
TiO2
TiO2TiO2TiO2
TiO2
granulization
UV capsule 602~5㎛
TiO2
TiO2TiO2
TiO2
TiO2TiO2
TiO2
TiO2
TiO2
TiO2
CompositionTiO2 57%SiO2 38%AS 5%
Crystal Size20nm
Particle Size2~5 ㎛
Loss on drying4%
High SPF
Broad UVA & UVB protection
Good Touch & Feeling
Some degree of opacity substitute pigmentary TiO2
SUNJINSeptember 2006
TiO2 size comparison
15nm, microfine TiO2
200nm, pigmentary TiO2 UV capsule 60
SUNJINSeptember 2006
UV Capsule 60: High SPF
Ingredients % INCI Name
water 45.1 water
DPG 4.6 dipropylene glycol
1,3-BG 5.8 butylene glycol
Magnesium sulfate 0.6 magnesium sulfate
Methyl paraben 0.2 methyl paraben
Germall-115 0.1 imidazolidinyl urea
D-pantenol 0.6 panthenol
Kak-HL 3.5 hexyl laurate
KF-995 12.7 cyclomethicone
DC-9041 3.5 dimethicone and dimethicone cross polymer
KSG-16 1.2 dimethicone vinyldimethicone cross polymer and dimethicone
UV filters 11.6
Sunsil-130SC 0.6 silica and dimethicone
SunPMMA 0.6 polymethyl Methacrylate
KF-6017 5.8 PEG-10 dimethicone
Abil EM-90 2.3 cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone
Benton 38 0.9 quaternium-18 hectorite
Propyl paraben 0.1 propyl paraben
Fragrance 0.3 fragrance
Tested Formulation(W/Si) Test Result
Unit SPF: 1.4/g
higher than ultrafine Zinc Oxides from market
Although not as high as ultrafine TiO2 from Tayca
SPF
Inorganic UV-filter (11.6%) Avg. SPF/
g
Sunclear-T40 9.4 0.8
Sunclear-Z50 5.8 0.5
Sunsil-ZnO-AS 8.9 0.8
SUNZNO-NAS 16.0 1.4
Zinc Oxide(T) 12.9 1.1
Zinc Oxide(B) 10.0 0.9
Sunsil-TZin50-AS 3.2 0.3
Sunsil-Tin40 2.5 0.2
Sunsil-Tin50 3.6 0.3
UV-capsule 60 16.1 1.4
Nano TiO2(T) 26.9 2.3
Organic(8.7%)
Parsol 1789 7.5 0.9
Parsol MCX 11.3 1.3
Benzophenone-3 9.4 1.1
Tinsorb-M 5.6 0.6
SUNJINSeptember 2006
UV Capsule 60: Broad UV protection
Only UV capsule 10% TiO2 5.2% + Zinc Oxide 10%
Ideal for a high SPF & PA makeup,
especially desirable in Asian market
SUNJINSeptember 2006
UV capsule 60
P
• Test condition: TiO2 mixed with Vaseline, after 3 days indoors
• UV capsule 60 shows much better photo-stability compared to other nano size TiO2
M A
• Samples (left) showed relatively good photo-stability among
commercial TiO2
• These have common surface treatment, i.e., either silica or
alkyl silane, which are known as the best coating agents
• UV capsule 60 is coated with both silica and alkyl silane up to
40% to guarantee perfect compatibility and photo-stability
• UV Capsule60 has equal SPF boosting effect compared to
other nano TiO2
Photo stability of UV capsule 60
SUNJINSeptember 2006
Aluminum oxide is one of the most common coating material for TiO2
BMDBM forms a complex with Al3+ salts from TiO2 coatings
The amount of BMDBM decreases
Weakening of the UVA protection
Avobenzone/BMDBM compatibility
SUNJINSeptember 2006
Avobenzone/BMDBM compatibility
O/WPerfect
W/OExcellent
Kemira M170 Alumina, Dimethicone
1 Alumina, Triethoxycaprylylsilane
2. UVCapsule60
Silica, Triethoxycaprylylsilane
3. Silica, Triethoxycaprylylsilane
4. Silica, Methicone
5. Alumina, Sodium Hexametaphsophate, PVP
6. Aluminum Hydroxide, Dimethicone/Methicone Copolymer
7. Hydrated Silica, Dimethicone/MethiconeCopolymer, Aluminum Hydroxide
8. Triethoxycaprylylsilane
W/O Foirmula
INCI
A D-Water To 100
P-M 0.2
NaCl 1
BG 5
B Abil EM 90 2
Dub DIS 10
Dub VCI 20 11
Bees Wax 1
Parsol MCX 5
Parsol 1789 0.7
C TiO2 8
Finsolv TPP 5.6
Emalex ss5050k 0.4
D Fragrance 0.2
V-E Acetate 0.1
W/O Formula Test ResultLot Start End Temp Dosage Remain 냉장대비 실온대비
#01 2005-04-14 2005-05-03 4℃ 0.7 0.54845℃ 0.7 0.364 -33.57
#02 2005-04-14 2005-05-03 4℃ 0.7 0.58345℃ 0.7 0.442 -24.19
#03 2005-04-14 2005-05-03 4℃ 0.7 0.66245℃ 0.7 0.654 -1.21
2005-06-29 RT 0.7 0.645 -2.5745℃ 0.7 0.641 -3.17 -0.62
#04 2005-04-14 2005-05-03 4℃ 0.7 0.65545℃ 0.7 0.657 -0.3
2005-06-29 RT 0.7 0.64 -2.2945℃ 0.7 0.667 1.83 4.05
#05 2005-04-14 2005-05-03 4℃ 0.7 0.71845℃ 0.7 0.705 -1.81
2005-06-29 RT 0.7 0.69 -3.945℃ 0.7 0.728 1.39 5.51
#06 2005-04-14 2005-05-03 4℃ 0.7 0.34245℃ 0.7 0.331 -3.21
2005-06-29 RT 0.7 0.33 -3.5145℃ 0.7 - -
#07 2005-04-14 2005-05-03 4℃ 0.7 0.53345℃ 0.7 0.351 -34.14
#08 2005-04-14 2005-05-03 4℃ 0.7 0.61545℃ 0.7 0.455 -26.01
#09 2005-04-14 2005-05-03 4℃ 0.7 0.69745℃ 0.7 0.673 -3.44
2005-06-29 RT 0.7 0.66945℃ 0.7 0.659 -5.45 -1.49
UVCapsule 60
BMDBM